How to mark a vertical line on a wall. Why you need to use a laser level

From the author: hello, dear visitors of our building portal. Not so long ago in production repair work we have all been forced to use various complex and not too precise methods to different kind measurements.

Fortunately, progress does not stand still. Everything appears in modern stores more tools, which greatly facilitate life and save us a lot of time and nerves. And today we will talk about one of them.

During the renovation important procedure is to check the evenness of the walls. This is especially true in old houses, where not much attention was paid to this issue during construction. Curved walls, the presence of bumps and dents on them and other shortcomings are ways to completely spoil the impression of the most luxurious repair.

That is why it is necessary to carefully measure their evenness. And in this we are now helped by a laser level, which is also called a level. Today we will talk about how to check the evenness of the wall with a laser level, how to use it at all stages of work - when determining how curved the rough surface is and how much plaster is needed on it, when checking the finished one for how well the builders plastered it, yes and during the plastering itself.

What is a level?

Laser level (level) - a device that allows you to build vertical and horizontal planes. This is indispensable assistant when building a house and during interior decoration.

The level consists of LEDs and prisms that create visible vertical and horizontal lines. With it, you can both build smooth walls and set the level of beacons, the ceiling and all other surfaces, quickly and evenly lay tiles, laminate and do many other works.

Evaluation of the curvature of the draft wall

This procedure is necessary to determine the amount of work and the approximate future consumption of materials. It is carried out by building a virtual vertical plane parallel to the wall using a level, and measuring the distance from this plane to pre-marked points. The work takes place in the following order.

1. At the level, the mode for constructing a vertical plane is selected, since the wall is located vertically (for such work, a horizontal plane is beaten off on the floor).
2. The device moves as close as possible to the wall so that the plane is parallel to the wall, and the beam does not touch it anywhere.
3. A ruler is taken (not a tape measure!) And applied to different points on the wall, the trace from the laser on the ruler will indicate the distance from the wall to the imaginary plane.
4. Every half meter or more different levels from floor to ceiling, measurements are taken and entered in the table.

So you can find the most concave and most convex point, estimate the overall unevenness in comparison with the base vertical and determine the number plastering works.

Plastering with beacons and a level

It is one of the fastest and most accurate modern ways finishing, which allows you to get the perfect surface in a short time.

1. First you need to prepare and prime the surface. Mark vertical lines on it where the beacons will stand, retreating 10 cm from the corners, the distance between adjacent ones should be 15–20 cm less than the length of the rule.
2. Turn on the vertical plane construction mode on the laser level. Mark on adjacent walls adjacent to the one being repaired, marks at a distance of 5 cm from the corners. Set the plane of the level according to the marks. On the rule, make marks at a distance of 4 cm from the edge. By setting the rule vertically along the marks with the help of a level, we get a gap between it and the wall of about 1 cm plus or minus, depending on the unevenness.
3. Now we install beacons in this gap. You need to make sure that they will pass into it anywhere in the installation, if necessary, move or move the laser vertical plane. After the final marking and the conviction that everything can fall into place, we knead the plaster and apply a small amount of on the wall according to the marking every 0.5 m.
4. We attach the lighthouse to the wall and coat it with plaster. We press the rule to the lighthouse and knock it in necessary places to align the marks on the rule with the laser beam. If this is done not with the rule, but with your hands, you can bend the beacons. We remove excess plaster from the lighthouse and the rules. We check again the verticality of the beacon and leave it to freeze, moving on to the next beacon. Drying time depends on the amount of plaster and surface material.
5. After drying all the beacons, stir plaster mixture and apply it between two beacons. We press the rule to the beacons and smooth the plaster with movements from the bottom up, swaying the tool left and right. We remove excess mixture from the rule. We fill the cracks in the wall with a spatula or trowel. Then we make the final pass as a rule. Let's move on to the next pair of lighthouses. After work, it turns out almost perfect surface ready for finishing.

To build an angle of 90 degrees in the kitchen or in the bathroom, you can also use a level to install large-sized furniture. In this case, you need a device that can build perpendicular vertical planes, and this mode is available in almost any today's model.

It is necessary to set the level relative to the already finished vertical wall according to the marks that were made during its alignment. Or put new marks, check that the laser plane is perfectly parallel to the wall, and beat off the 90 degree angle. Then mark the adjacent wall, beat it off in the same way, set up beacons, following the instructions given above, and plaster the wall. The result is a right angle between the planes.

Evaluation of the evenness of the wall using a level

To check the evenness of the wall after laser level rule can be used. We apply it to the wall and see if there is a gap between it and the rule. Measure the gap with a ruler. But, as a rule, uneven finished wall measured in a few millimeters, and it is difficult to determine its value using this method.

For a more accurate measurement, we use a laser level. If you need to determine the evenness along the vertical - turn on the construction of the vertical axis. If horizontally - then the horizontal axis. For convenience, you can draw a corresponding line on the wall. Then the level must be placed at an angle of 45 ° to the wall.

The resulting laser line will be straight only on an ideal flat wall. If there is a bubble on the surface, then in this place the beam will deviate to the side towards the level. If concavity, then the line will deviate from the vertical axis away from the level. When installing the device at an angle of 45°, the distance from the drawn line to the bent beam will be equal to the size of the unevenness.

The level can also be used to check the evenness of corners by pointing the beam at the junction of walls and checking its verticality. If the angle is even, then the beam will clearly lie in it. If it is littered in any direction, it will be clearly visible.

We think now you understand how handy tool. Of course, you can do without it, because before you somehow managed on your own, using old-fashioned methods. But the level makes the repair process much easier, saves time and energy, so is it worth giving up modern technologies in the name of saving money?

However, the decision is up to you. We have tried to give all the necessary information on the use of the laser level. If you want to further fix it, we recommend watching a video on the topic. Good luck with your renovations!

The laser building level is a technological device that has replaced the water one. The device gives accurate results, reliable and easy to use.

The laser level is a simplified version of the level. The action of the tool is based on LED light emission, forming rays and points. The beam changes position due to mechanical, optical, electronic changes.

According to the principle of construction, two categories of laser levels are divided:

• prismatic or positional, the beam is based on a prism, a line is projected onto the surface;
• rotary, the beam is formed by a lens, capable of forming control points.

Prism laser levels are inexpensive and easy to use, the beam range is up to 20 meters. Rotary measuring tools are used by professional builders, have more possibilities, range increased to 500 m.

Before starting measurements read the instructions, take care of safety. Working under open sky, take into account the temperature range of the tool, the degree of protection against moisture.

How to bring the device into working position?

Before the production of work, the device is installed in working position, fix, then adjust.

The device has several modes:

• construction of horizontal lines;
• projection of vertical lines;
• cross construction mode. The vertical and horizontal lines intersect, forming an angle of 90 degrees;
• point projection mode.

Level setting

The plastic, rubber-coated body of the device can be installed on any surface. Rigid fixation device - main principle mounts.

Important! During operation, vibrations of the device are not allowed, with a shift, the results will be distorted.

To set the laser level use:

• smooth horizontal surfaces at hand: chairs, window sills, tables;
• mounting with a tripod to the wall, rods and tripods.

Wall mounts hold the tool suction cups or magnets, Velcro. The tripod allows you to raise the device up, the rod is convenient in marking the ceiling. Accessories are included with the purchase or purchased separately as needed.

Setting

Preparation of the device for operation consists in setting the level strictly horizontally, will depend on the type of laser level, does not require professional skills.

Plug and play tools will be ready automatically. Adjustment occurs in the range of 5-10 degrees.

When setting the working position, the device gives a sound or light signal.

Turning on, the laser level will project the desired beam according to established regime measurements.

A bright luminous line will appear on the surface, one or more, a dot, a cross.

note

When the instrument is moved, adjustment is always made again!

Setting the laser level manually is carried out alignment of the bubble in the viewing window of the apparatus to central position . Adjustment of position is made by the screws located on the case.

Precautionary measures

The safety precautions for working with the device are in eye protection. Direct hit of the beam into unprotected eyes can cause various injuries and diseases, up to retinal detachment.

When working, be sure to use special glasses, avoid hitting the beam on those present, isolate pets. Goggles improve the visibility of the lines in sunny weather.

How to use?

Laser levels are distinguished by the following parameters:

• food type, rechargeable or from replaceable batteries;
• remote control remote control, switching modes from afar;
• self-leveling mechanism;
• beam angle, the ability to project marks around.

Comparing the characteristics, choose the most suitable option.

For floor

The laser level is useful for floor installation, starting from the installation of beacon rails when pouring a screed or when installing a self-leveling floor. The projected lines will help align the first row or floorboard, check the planes of the walls.

Lines crossed at right angles check the position and quality of the seams of the floor ceramic.

for walls

Horizontal lines are being laid for ceramic tiling, installation false ceiling, hanging cornices. If for some reason it is impossible to place the device high, a parallel line is manually drawn above the projected line using a tape measure and a plumb line.

Vertical lines are comfortable when sticking wallpaper, fixing the frame from metal profiles for, installation of window and door blocks. Circular mode will help with layout interior partitions, as well as for leveling and plastering walls.

Lines crossed at right angles are achieved by combining two modes of operation - horizontal and vertical. In this way, the correct laying of ceramic or PVC tiles is controlled.

For obtaining oblique lines, as, for example, when marking flight of stairs on the wall, change the angle of the device with the adjusting screws. The self-alignment mode is disabled.

For ceiling

The marking of single-level and multi-level ceilings is not complete without a laser level.

Built-in lights are marked as follows:

• mark the points of installation of fixtures on the floor;
• transfer points to the ceiling, directing the beam upward from the marking point.

Using the device as an electronic plumb line, stand-alone columns, holes for pipes are marked engineering communications in the cover.

Surface leveling

The laser level is capable of leveling the surface.

Leveling determines the position of the height of the surface at different points premises.

The device is attached to the wall or floor using a bracket, directing the beam along the plane of the structure.

Using a ruler or building square measure for irregularities and irregularities, revealing plane errors or exposing beacons of plastering work or screeds.

How to check the laser level for accuracy?

During operation, the device is transferred, transported. Measuring technology, operated at a construction site is not immune from shocks and falls. From time to time the device is checked for accuracy.

To check horizontal lines you will need:

• a tripod or a flat, solid base for setting the instrument;
• a room with a distance between two walls opposite about 5 meters.

Important! When checking, it is necessary to remember to align the laser level with each change of position manually or in automatic mode.

Starting verification, the device is installed at the first wall (A), marking the center of the beam on its surface. Then level rotate 180 degrees, fixing the center of the beam on the opposite wall (B).

The tool is transferred to wall B without turning and adjusted with a tripod or base so that the center of the beam coincides with the point marked earlier on wall B. After that rotate the level 180 degrees again.

Mark the center of the beam on wall A. The difference between the resulting points will be instrument measurement error. At a distance between walls of 5 meters, the error must not exceed 2 mm.

Useful videos

look detailed overview laser level for a beginner:

How to markup correctly rectangular room for installation ceiling profile under drywall:

Installation of beacons by laser level, see:

Laying tiles on the floor using a laser level:

Fast and accurate installation of beacons for floor screed:

How to find the upper and lower points of the floor in an apartment / room in 5 minutes, the same on the ceiling, look:

Having learned how to work with a laser level, builders simplify many of the tasks of marking and measuring when building a private house (see:), they do the work quickly and with great accuracy.

Many probably wondered: How to put exactly ceramic tiles in the bath or in the toilet, or how, for example, to expose washing machine by level, without having the same building level ...

Yes, it's not an easy task. But this is only at first glance. There are two ways to determine the level without a known building tool. No, of course there are many ways. One of them is with the help of a level. The method is very accurate, but where to get the same level? It's good if friends have it, but if not? So, the ways that I could suggest.

1st way.

Not very accurate, but much more accurate than the human eye. It consists in making a likeness and is based on terrestrial gravity. Can be made from ordinary plastic bottle(possibly glass).

A bottle is taken, preferably with even walls, without any distortion, the smoother the better. Water is poured into it, almost to the eyeballs, slightly below the neck. The water must be room temperature. And even better if it is alcohol. It can be used at any temperature.

When the desired liquid is poured, we twist the cork tighter and the level is ready. We lay the container on its side and look at the size of the bubble that floats in it. If it's too big, add water. We find approximately the middle of the side wall of the bottle (you can measure it with a ruler). And that's it, ready. We lay it on any surface and look at the deviation of the bubble from the middle of the bottle, in accordance with this we conclude that the surface is even. And, if possible, align.

2nd way.

Almost identical to the first one. Instead of a bottle, you can use a jar with a volume of one or three liters. For accuracy, you can put a board or a cover on it from something. The main thing is that this lid covers the neck of the jar. We take a ruler and measure the vertical distance from the board to the bottom, any, to your taste. For example, five centimeters. We measure in several places around the circumference of the can. The more often, the better. After each measurement, we put a mark on the bank. Then you can use the thread that we pull around the can, as long as it passes through all the marked places. You can leave it there, but you need to firmly fix it there. And you can circle a line along the thread with a marker.

Now pour water into the jar approximately along the intended line. The level is ready. We put it on the surface and see which side needs to be raised or lowered. As a result, the so-called water's edge should coincide with the intended line, then be sure -

But what if such a situation has turned out that it is necessary to place two points located at a distance of, say, five meters from each other, at the same level? This situation arises when it is necessary to overlay, for example, a kitchen with tiles.

3rd way.

This is where the third method comes in handy. It is also based on physical law. More precisely, on the law of communicating vessels.

To do this, take a transparent rubber hose. The diameter is not very large, up to a centimeter. The length is chosen based on the very distance at which the treasured points are located plus the margin. The margin depends on the distance. How more distance, the more stock.

So. The same water is poured into the hose. First you need to close one end of the hose with your finger. The liquid is not filled in completely, but it is better to leave fifteen centimeters. All. The level is ready.

Plug both ends of the hose with your fingers, fit one end of the hose in the place where the water's edge is to the starting point. Attach the second end to the place where the second point should be. The main thing is that the second end is higher than the starting point. It is important that the hose lies freely between points on the ground and in no case sags in the air. For this, you need a reserve. Where the water's edge will be at the second end of the hose, there will be a second point. Like this.

And if you need a straight line between these points, then you can use a thread smeared in a corner. Pull it between the points and pulling it, then releasing it with charcoal, mark the line.

In order to make a beautiful and even drywall construction, first of all, you need the most thorough.

The task is to correctly beat off the horizontal and vertical, these will be the base lines, from which, using a tape measure or ruler, it will be possible to draw auxiliary marking lines. Also, when marking a room, it is necessary to determine the possible collapse in the corners and, if necessary, beat off the correct planes of the walls.

The ceiling, floor and walls should form a parallelepiped, with the exception of non-standard layouts.

Horizontal level markup

It is best to use building pencils to draw out the room, they have thick cores and leave clear lines on the wall.

To beat off horizontal lines on the wall, it is necessary to use a hydraulic level (special hose level), which is shown in the figure above. The flasks of a level filled completely with water are carried to the corners and, combining the water level in each flask at the same mark, it should be noted at the corresponding points on the wall. In this way, points at the same level can be marked very precisely. If we draw a line through two points marked in this way, we get an ideal horizontal line tilted to zero degrees. To use this level, you will need an assistant to help hold the second end of the level. This method of marking levels is very useful for marking the entire apartment, since in this way you can mark points in different rooms, for building ceilings and floors in one level.

chopping

To beat lines at points marked with a water level, you need a masking cord, shown in next photo:

Such cords are commercially available in a huge number and different types, but they have the same principle of operation. The cord is wound on a spool. With a spool, there is a coloring element at the place where the cord is fed, which is filled with a special toner to color the cord. The cord is pulled to the desired length between the points, pressed against them, pulling. Then, in a place closer to the middle of the length, the cord is pulled back like a bowstring and released to strike the cord against the surface of the wall. As a result of the beating of the cord against the surface of the wall, the toner from the cord is beaten off on the wall, thus obtaining a straight line.

For marking horizontal and vertical lines of small length, rulers with bubble levels are used. It is shown in the figure:

These lines are made different lengths. We do not recommend making lines that are marked with rulers with a level longer than the length of the ruler, so as not to end up with a broken line and at the extreme points not to get inconsistency in levels. Lines are drawn along the ruler with a graphite pencil. To check the bubble level, set the ruler to approx. horizontal surface bubble level up, mark the position of the bubble and turn the ruler 180 degrees, mark the position of the bubble again. The bubble should show a mirror image. If, when checking at the second stage, the bubble does not show a mirror image, then the level is not working. In good condition, when the vial is clearly centered, the ruler is oriented horizontally.

Marking vertical lines

Marking points for constructing vertical lines occurs using a plumb line. The following photo shows a plumb line with automatic cord winding.

The plumb line is released almost to the floor level, and the second end is attached to the ceiling as close as possible to the wall, but the plumb line should hang freely. When the plumb line is completely calm, you can mark the extreme points along the cord and beat off the vertical line with a masking cord. For correct construction vertical, you only need to use a plumb line, since the force of gravity always acts in one direction, while any level of secondary action has an error.

Modern measuring instruments use the capabilities of a laser. Significantly simplify the work of marking the room with laser devices that immediately shine with a laser line on the wall in the horizontal and vertical direction, shine with a vertical, horizontal and at a certain angle beam. Good laser devices have high cost and may not be available to everyone, while cheap ones should not be used, since their adjustment is based on the same bubble levels and they have a large error.

Room layout

The control points in the room are at the corners of the ceiling and floor. The corners in a room where there are four corners must be straight so that the room is a perfect box. The camber must be measured with a chisel line and a plumb bob.

On the ceiling, lines are beaten diagonally from corner to corner, then the diagonals are measured, they should be equal. If the diagonals are of different lengths, then you need to correct it by marking the correct points on the line. By connecting the points with segments using a masking cord, we get a rectangle in which all corners are right. At least one point of the rectangle must coincide with the actual corner of the ceiling. Attaching a plumb line to the derived points, it is necessary to mark the response points on the floor. After marking in this way, it is imperative to check that the pairs of diagonals in any plane passing through the four control points must be equal in length. This marking technique allows you to minimize the collapse in the corners of the walls.

Mainly, the layout of the room is needed in order to find out where to mount starting profiles and suspensions for the frame of the plasterboard construction.

The apparent simplicity of this procedure is deceptive. The master who performs it must be able to work with different kind levels, be careful, do not make mistakes in the calculations. An error of just 2 mm can lead, after a short period of time, to a complete replacement of the screed and flooring.

The purpose of this operation is to determine the level of the floor for the screed, i.e. level the errors of the base in height.

During the laying of floors, it is impossible to achieve an even horizon and a clean surface. There is always a slope and various ledges.

The screed holds the floor well only if at its thinnest point its thickness is at least 30 mm. Therefore, deriving the zero level, we find the most high place on the basis of the floor and, adding 3 cm to it, we determine the horizon along which the screed will be poured.

Floor Level Measurement Methods

To determine the level of the horizon (it is also called zero) you will need:

• laser or hydraulic level;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• a special cord for beating lines (you can make it yourself by rubbing a simple cord with chalk or charcoal).

The choice of level type depends on:

• the financial capabilities of the work contractor (the price of the laser level is quite high, up to 20.0 thousand rubles, and when installing beacons for floor screed with your own hands, it makes no sense to buy it);
• skills (experience).

Determining the evenness of the floor without a laser level can be much cheaper. In the absence of experience with a hydro level, a laser level can be rented, which will not hit your budget in any way.

Hydraulic level

The simplest device with which you can beat off the horizon line (zero) and screeds is a hydraulic level. It is a hose with two transparent containers (flasks), which are marked. The work is based on physical property liquids in communicating vessels should be set at the same level.

In terms of the quality of work, it is not inferior to determining the level for pouring a floor screed using a laser level, it costs several times cheaper (you can make it yourself), though it requires the participation of 2 people.

Advice: in the absence of a water level at hand, you can make it yourself from a long rubber tube and transparent flasks, glass or plastic, which are fixed at its ends or from a transparent plastic hose.

Ideal for these purposes plastic tube used in diesel vehicles for fuel supply. In this case, flasks are not needed. The system is filled with water, after which the device is ready to work.

Operating Instructions

In numerous instructions given on Internet sites, it is clear that the authors have never worked with a hydraulic level. Therefore, we paint the entire course of work step by step.

1. At a height of one and a half meters, a mark is placed on the wall. This is the initial mark of the zero line.
2. Two people take a hydro level and approach the wall a meter apart. One of them should be next to the mark.
3. Approximately at the same (any, but preferably closer to the mark) height, a level is applied to the wall.
4. Wait 20 seconds for the water to calm down.
5. Simultaneous, slow movements up and down achieve the coincidence of the water level with the mark at the first end of the hose.
6. Again wait 20 seconds and note the water level at the second end of the hose.
7. The procedure is repeated in the same order around the entire perimeter of the room.

It is important to understand that the marks are set in height to the horizon, and not to the floor, since it often has a slope, sometimes up to 10 cm. All marks are beaten off in one line with a building cord. If there is no cord, you can draw a straight line with a pencil using a rail.

Important: for beginner builders. If the hydraulic level at both ends of the hose is tightly closed, then during measurements it is necessary to achieve the coincidence of the water level in the flasks at the same digital values. If this is not done, then due to air pressure on water in a closed vessel, the measurements are distorted.

In levels with open ends, this is not necessary. Another thing is important here: when changing the measuring point, both ends of the hose are tightly closed with a finger. If the factory hose is transparent, it is better to remove the flasks. It's easier.

Starting from the horizon line, we find with a tape measure the highest place on the base of the floor (floor). It will correspond to the smallest distance from the horizon line to the floor. From it, the calculations of the screed line will be carried out.

Important: if there is no slope, but there are raised points in the form of tubercles, we remove them, and we measure the differences in floor heights in relation to the zero line.

How to determine the level of the floor, or rather the screed? From the smallest value of the measurement, subtract the thickness of the screed and make a mark. Along it, again along the walls, we draw a screed line, parallel line horizon. For convenience, we put a number of marks with a tape measure, measuring the distance from the horizon line.

Calculation example: from the horizon line (blue line) to the floor, when measuring in various places of the room with a tape measure, the results were obtained: 1.54 m, 1.53 m, 1.52 m, 1.50 m. The highest place at the base of the floor at the point where the tape measure recorded the figure 1.50 m ( minimum distance from the horizon to the base). Then the screed line (red line) will be at a distance of 1.37 m (150 cm - 13 cm) from the horizon line (the calculation is conditional, in most cases 3 cm is subtracted. In this case, the screed line will pass at a mark of 147 cm from the zero line).

The scheme for determining the screed line.

bubble level

In many materials considering various technologies beating the screed line, it is recommended to use a bubble level (planar level) for these purposes. Theoretically, such work can be carried out. In practice, no. Why? There are several problems here, the solution of which is not given by the authors.

1. How to check the evenness of the floor in the middle of the room? A meter level will show the presence of unevenness, but you can compare it with other elevation changes only when it is fixed on the wall, which will allow you to comparative analysis. How to project a protrusion on the base of the floor in the middle of the room onto the wall is not indicated in the recommendations.

2. In the instructions for determining the horizon of the screed with a bubble level, the following procedure is given:

1. A mark is applied to the wall, along which it is planned to fill the screed;
2. A level is applied to the mark. Shifting it to the side, they pass the entire perimeter of the room, drawing a line with a pencil. If the line has converged, the screed level is ready.

The process is really simple and fast, but how to account for the ledges in the middle of the room?

Another important point. Determining the "peephole" line for the screed, its thickness is either overestimated or underestimated. Filling screed, on separate sections less than 3 cm thick, leads to the destruction of the entire structure. Overestimation of the thickness leads to a significant increase in the load on the floors and an increase in the cost of work.

Conclusion: advice to use a bubble level is dubious.

Laser level

Installation of beacons for floor screed with a laser level is available to a novice repairman. We find a place in the room from where laser ray enters other rooms (at least one), after that:

1. set the level at a height of 1-1.5 m;
2. we make beam marks in all rooms, so that when moving to another room, it would be possible to combine the laser beam with the already existing horizon line;
3. using the beam as a zero line, we find the highest point of the base in this room (there is no need to beat off the line - it is replaced by a laser beam);
4. we transfer the level to the adjacent room and combine the beam with the mark set earlier (we place it so that it gets into the next room);
5. determine the highest point of this room;
6. after measuring all the premises of the apartment (house), we find the highest point of the base of the floor of the apartment. From it we will calculate the screed line.

Tip: how to beat the floor level with a laser level for beginners? Just put on any stand. With the help of a gyroscope, the laser level automatically takes a strictly horizontal and vertical position inside the hull.

At the end of the measurements along the walls and corners, it is advisable to do the same in the middle of each room - a higher place may be located there. To do this, in random order on opposite walls along the screed line, we put self-tapping screws. We stretch the cords between them and take measurements with the help of a square. If the distance between the base of the floor and the cord is less than 30 mm, we raise the tie line by the same difference.

The results of measurements are best applied to the walls in the place where the measurement was made. Alternative option- draw a plan of the apartment, and on it fix the distance from the horizon line to the base of the floor. This will avoid errors and not repeat measurements in all rooms when leveling the base in one of them.

Rotary level

The development of technology and technology has brought to the market building tools the new kind laser level - rotary level. With it, measurements can be taken in 5 planes. Its feature is that it can work in large rooms, up to 200-600 m, which cannot be done with a linear laser level.

How to check the level of the floor with a rotary type laser level? Instructions for use completely coincide with the technology of zero level beating with a linear laser.

It is used mainly only by professionals of large companies, as it is very expensive.

Lighthouse line marking

How to put beacons under the floor screed? First, we determine the number of rows of beacons and the distance between them. When marking the line of lighthouses, you should follow simple rules:

1. the distance of the extreme beacons from the parallel wall is 10-30 cm;
2. the distance between the beacons is marked less than the rule;
3. the direction is perpendicular to the wall with the door, which will ensure convenient pouring of the last meters of the screed (you can bulge out into the doorway).

We will show how the calculation is carried out. To do this, we use conditional data:

• room width 6.8 m;
• rule - 1.5 m;
• the distance between the wall and the first row of lighthouses is 20 cm;
• the distance between the extreme rows is 6.4 m (7.1 m - 0.2 m - 0.2 m).

Given that the rule must cover the distance between the wall and the first row (20 cm) of beacons, the distance between the beacons inside must be less than 1.3 m, otherwise the rule will not be able to lay the second end on the next beacons. We calculate the number of lines of beacons between the extreme rows - 6.4 / 1.3 = 4.9 (5). This means that there are 6 rows in total (5 + 1), the distance between them is 1.28 m (6.4 / 5).

Resizing the rule also changes the calculations. For example, with a rule length of 2 m, the total number of beacon lines is 5.

For reference: with 4 rows we get 5 row spacing, so we divide the distance between the extreme rows by this figure.

Beating all the lines allows you to proceed to the finishing stage before pouring the screed - the installation of beacons.

Conclusion

Beating the screed line is within the power of any beginner in the construction business. The main thing is to be careful and do the work strictly in order:

• draw a horizon line on the wall;
• along the perimeter of the room, measure the distance from the markings to the base of the floor;
• subtract 3 cm from the shortest segment and mark this point on the wall;
• through the resulting zero point, draw a line on the wall parallel to the horizon line;
• measure the floor in the middle of the room. If necessary, raise the screed line;
• carry out calculations and put on the floor of the passage of beacons.

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