How to make a plastic ceiling yourself. How to make a false ceiling with your own hands from plastic? Chandelier prices

Have you looked at your ceiling and come to the conclusion: is it time to change something? Think plastic panels. Extreme ease of installation and solid decorative potential allowed them to firmly establish themselves in the building materials market, along with stretch ceilings. Do not know how to make a ceiling from plastic panels yourself? Our article-instruction with a detailed story about each stage of this type of installation work will help you.

Before proceeding directly to the description of how to make a ceiling from plastic panels, it is necessary to raise the issue of the material itself. It is no secret that today PVC is actively used for finishing both ceilings and walls. However, not every owner who started repairs knows that there are both wall, So ceiling panels.

Outwardly, they practically do not differ, but there can be no parity in terms of technical characteristics: wall ones are slightly heavier than ceiling ones and, when used on the ceiling, give a significantly greater load on the mounting frame.

They can also have different textures. Wooden - one of the most popular.

In order to prevent such a nuisance, it is best to use them according to their functional purpose. Ceiling panels have thinner walls, are not as rigid and are specially lightened for more comfortable installation and subsequent operation.

According to the type of surface, plastic panels are divided into:

• glossy- recommended for rooms with a small height, allow you to visually raise the ceiling due to the mirror effect

• matte- require more luminaires or increase their rated power for optimal light distribution in the room

There are also panels with a rough surface, printed with a pattern, but this is already exclusively a matter of taste, designed for people with certain aesthetic needs.

The choice of a particular surface is, of course, important, as it directly affects the final result of the finish. However, it is equally important to determine the size of the plastic panels that you are going to install on the ceiling.

• Rack- narrow panels, which are most reminiscent of lining, many are impressed with just such an effect, as it helps to create some saturation in the room

• Seamless- the most common, if you want to make a ceiling of this type of plastic panels, you will get an almost solid, monolithic canvas, the seams are barely visible and the special grooves with which the sheets are assembled are "fault" for everything.

• leafy- geometrically correct, used for finishing non-linear surfaces, can be both square and rectangular.

Decided on the type of panels? Amazing! Let's try to calculate the required amount of material and profiles, without which, alas, it will not work to make a ceiling of plastic panels.

1. We multiply the length of the room in which the renovation is planned by its width and get the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling.
2. We divide the resulting number by the area of ​​​​one panel and add about 15-20% - these pieces will not be superfluous, but will be used for trimming.
3. Determine the amount of the UD guide profile, which is mounted around the perimeter (divide the linear meters by the length of one bar, round the result to an integer)
4. We determine the number of rack profile CD, which is mounted perpendicularly (for every 50 cm - 1 pc.)

It is important to know: in order to make a ceiling from plastic panels, it is necessary to make a crate from the profiles, the so-called frame, on which the plastic will later be attached. You have a choice - to use ready-made profiles for this purpose, or to be content with wooden slats.

Experts strongly recommend the first option if you want to make a ceiling of plastic panels in the kitchen or bathroom, as wood is absolutely not suitable for use in rooms with high humidity.

Now prepare the tool and everything else that should come in handy in the work. In order to make a ceiling from plastic panels at home, without resorting to the help of a special installation team, you will need:

• level
• mounting plate
• ceiling plinth
• self-tapping screws
• dowels with screws
• screwdriver
• perforator
• metal scissors
• paint cord
• glue or liquid nails

Gathered everything you need and made accurate calculations? Then we start!

We carry out the markup

Using a water level, determine the exact location of the UD profile. To do this, first, using that already level, determine the lower point and step back from it at a distance that is slightly more than the thickness of the profile. The next steps are logical: mark up the entire room, and to speed up this tedious process, use a paint thread. With its help, beat off a solid line and, thereby, set a guideline for installing the ceiling profile.

We fix the ceiling profile

Using a perforator or drill, prepare holes in the wall for the subsequent fastening of the UD profile. Please note that the distance between the holes should be no more than 1 m. Focusing on the markings made, fasten the guide profile with a screwdriver.

If you have successfully passed this stage, congratulations - your crate is ready. Do not forget to conduct electrical wiring - in order to properly lay the cable, use a mounting casing made of metal or plastic. Fixing it to the ceiling should not cause any difficulties.

We mount the mounting plate

We continue the story of how to make the ceiling of plastic panels yourself, and proceed to a very important step. One of the sides of the mounting plate is attached to the crate, and the other has a corresponding groove.

It is into it that the ceiling plinth is inserted after without any problems. The bar is fastened around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. They are screwed exactly into the middle of its side surface. How many screws to use? Keep a step of at least 25 cm.

We carry out installation of plastic panels

We slide the panel into the groove of the mounting plate, carefully align it and fix it to the CD rack profile with self-tapping screws. You should not have any particular difficulties at the initial stage: each panel easily fits into the groove of the previous, already installed panel.

Difficulties can arise only with the final panel. It must be cut in advance to the desired size and make holes for fastening to the crate. Using a screwdriver, attach the final bar to the CD post profile.

Strengthening the crate for lamps

It seems that you already know almost everything about how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. However, do not forget about some manipulations, the success of which your future comfort directly depends on: the places where you plan to install fixtures should be strengthened in advance with additional profiles and lead the wires through the holes.

Fixing the ceiling plinth

The prepared ceiling plinth must first be cut to the width of the room where you install the plastic panels. Next - attach the corners to it and snap the finished plinth into the groove of the already installed mounting plate.

Try to fix it correctly so that you do not have such curvature as in the image.

What should be the result? If you really learned how to make a ceiling from plastic panels, then the photos below will definitely correlate with your final result.

Photo: vk.com

When choosing a finish for the ceiling, it is recommended to consider those types that can be implemented with your own hands. Suspended structures are practical in this regard, which do not require preliminary cleaning and leveling of the rough base. Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling carried out on a pre-equipped frame.

Where is the best place to apply

The main enemy of any finish (including ceiling) is high humidity. The most humid rooms in the house and apartment are the kitchen and the toilet. In the presence of poor ventilation, water and other fumes begin to settle on the surface of the ceiling, provoking gradual deterioration of the material and the appearance of fungus. For such conditions, you need to select a moisture-resistant finish. Plastic panels meet these requirements.

Advantages and disadvantages

Looking closely at the building material, the first thing to study is its characteristics. Ceiling PVC panels are plastic lamellas (length - 270-300 cm, width - 25-30 cm), equipped at the ends with elements of the "thorn-groove" connection.

Material advantages:

1. Long service life. If you follow all the recommendations for installation and operation, then the panels will last for several decades.
2. Not complicated installation and maintenance. You can install a ceiling made of PVC panels with your own hands even alone: ​​the main thing here is to build the frame correctly. In the future, the lined surface is allowed to be washed using gentle detergents. In this regard, plastic trim is more convenient than.
3. Light weight. The lightness of individual elements simplifies their transportation and installation.
4. Moisture resistance. In this regard, plastic materials have no equal. PVC ceiling panels can be used in the wettest rooms - bathrooms, toilets, saunas, swimming pools. Even constant exposure to water on a surface finished in this way will not harm it in any way.
5. decorative possibilities. On sale, plastic lining is presented in a significant color and texture variety, which allows you to choose a shade for finishing the bathroom. Various imitations of stone, wood and plaster look very nice. In general, the suspension system allows you to quickly and efficiently level the surface of the ceiling of any room, without the use of time-consuming "wet" processes.
6. Ease of communications. Thanks to the mounting gap between the decorative surface and the base, it is very convenient to hide various communications and wires there. In the plastic panels themselves, you can easily make holes for the lamps.
7. Environmental friendliness. The composition of modern building plastics does not include harmful components with an unpleasant odor.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out a common weak point for all suspended structures - they somewhat hide the living space. For this reason, this finish is not recommended for use in rooms with low ceilings. You can also highlight some simplicity and unpretentiousness of plastic panels, which are inferior to more expensive rack or stained glass systems.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing PVC panel ceilings

In order for the suspended ceiling made of pvc panels to be as beautiful and durable as possible, it is important to follow a certain sequence of operations during its installation.

Purchase of material

There are a lot of varieties of plastic panels: they have different sizes, design and texture. Of particular importance is the width of the individual slats. In small rooms it is better to take lining up to 25 cm wide, for larger rooms - products of greater width (for example, 50 cm). To calculate the required amount of material, first determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe finished ceiling, multiplying its width by its length. The resulting number is divided by the area of ​​​​one plate (usually this parameter is indicated on the package), adding at least 15% to the result for cutting.

In addition to panels, you also need to purchase special connecting elements:

1. starting profile. It is attached around the entire perimeter of the finish in order to cover the ends of the lamellas.
2. Profile F. With its help, corners and transitions from one plane to another are formed.
3. Connector. It is used to build up the frame or individual panels.
4. Decorative corner. This element covers the outer ends at the inner corners.
5. Plinth for the ceiling. Designed to improve the suspension system around the perimeter.
6. Universal corner. Allows you to neatly decorate any corner area.

For the construction of the work frame, you will need metal profiles or wooden blocks. Their calculation is most conveniently carried out using the drawn up drawing.

Parallel lines are drawn along the long walls in increments of 40-60 cm: after that, it is quite easy to determine the total length of these guides. Along the perimeter of the room, a more rigid supporting profile or beam will be required. When calculating the fastening material, the total number of guides and the fastening step are taken into account (usually 30 cm). When choosing between a wooden or metal frame, the inexpensive price of the first option and ease of installation are taken into account, and the second - increased moisture resistance.

To work, you also need to stock up on the following tool:

• tape measure and pencil (marker);
• building level and corner;
• twine;
• scissors for metal;
• miter box;
• hacksaw for wood and metal;
• grinder and disc up to 2 mm;
• impact drill or hammer drill;
• screwdriver;
• extension cord.

Foundation preparation

As already mentioned, when installing PVC panels, preliminary leveling of the base is not carried out. In this case, elementary preparatory measures are sufficient. The rough surface must be freed from old finishes, lighting fixtures, dirt and dust. It is advisable to remove too weak areas of the base with a pick, sealing the holes formed with coarse putty. After the solution dries, the entire base is treated with antibacterial impregnation.

Marking

Before you make a suspended ceiling from PVC panels, you need to mark the base. To indicate the general level of the suspended structure, each of the walls of the room being finished is marked with a line. In this case, you must immediately select the type of fixtures. The presence of differences, laying of hidden communications are also taken into account. For further convenience of laying the wiring from the upper edge of the crate to the base, leave at least 20 mm: in this case, it is most practical to mount the frame on suspensions.

The most lowered overlap point is selected as a landmark for marking. Based on it, the walls are equipped with appropriate marks: for their application, you need a water level. You can get a solid line when using a chalk thread: with its help, the connecting sections between individual points are beaten off. In a similar way, the installation site of the transverse mounting jumpers is marked: they are installed strictly perpendicular to the direction of laying the lamellas, at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

The construction of the mounting crate

As a material for the frame, wooden bars or a metal profile for drywall are used. If finishing is carried out in a room with a high level of humidity, it is recommended to use a metal crate. It is very convenient to align these structures thanks to special suspensions that allow you to lower the level of the finish surface by 30-40 mm. To avoid significant concealment of the living space, it is recommended to make the distance from the ceiling to the crate no more than 4 cm.

First of all, the perimeter of the room along the broken line is drawn up with a starting profile 27 × 28. Then the main profile 60×27 is installed. The selection of fasteners is carried out depending on the material of the walls.

Using dowel-nails, you will need to pre-equip the profile and walls with the appropriate holes. When installing the starting profile, it is necessary to apply a level, this will allow the initial and final segment of the perimeter to converge at one point.

At the next stage, metal suspensions are fixed along pre-cut longitudinal lines. The optimal distance between the individual devices is 80 cm. For fastening, self-tapping screws or dowel-nails are also used here: after installation, it is better to bend them immediately, which will simplify the installation of the main guides. Adjusting the main profile along the length, a gap of 5 mm must be left along each edge, the resulting segments are inserted inside the starting profile, fixing on self-tapping screws to the suspensions. During this procedure, it is necessary to check the guides for horizontality and straightness.

Panel mounting

The finished frame around the perimeter is made out with a special U-profile, inside which a ceiling plinth is inserted. This will allow you to get an installation distance between them and the crate for installing the first lamella. Convenient in this regard, the ceiling of PVC panels in the bathroom, because this room usually has an even rectangular shape. This makes it possible to initially cut panels of the same size, making a margin of 5 mm for the thickness of the profile.

The first strip is inserted inside the U-shaped profile with a spike forward: it is fixed to the frame with a self-tapping screw with a wide cap. The spike of the second panel is immersed in the groove of the previous one (for convenience, you can help yourself with a narrow spatula). Carrying out a further set of lamellas, it is important to achieve their tight fit to each other. The last strip, as a rule, needs to be cut longitudinally: this must be done carefully. The assembled plastic surface is formed along the perimeter with a ceiling plinth cut at an angle of 45º. To mask the corner joints, special overhead plugs are used.

Ceiling lighting device

To mount in lamps, it is necessary to accurately mark their location even at the stage of frame construction. This will allow you to initially bring the wiring to the desired sections. Seats for lighting fixtures are cut out during the installation of the panels, for which a sharp knife or cutter is used - this will ensure the accuracy of their placement. In the completed niches, the installation and switching of fixtures is immediately carried out. The electrical wiring is released outside, and the installation of lighting is carried out upon completion of the finishing work.

During subsequent operation, plastic panels are quite unpretentious to external factors - they can be wiped from time to time with a wet sponge.

Only needs special care, because. in addition to ordinary moisture, fat deposits and soot accumulate on its surface. In this case, non-abrasive detergents are used for cleaning.

Results

Suspended PVC ceiling - not a difficult type for self-implementation of all such structures. Despite their simplicity, plastic panels are popular for finishing kitchens, bathrooms and loggias. With the subsequent care of the finished surface, there are not so many restrictions on how to wash plastic panel ceilings.

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range of plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various patterns and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on the power of lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material is a danger to human health and violates the correct living conditions in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and in the food industry. Various items made of plastic are found in large quantities in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is present in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a suspended ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, emitting 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

• Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply impractical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are only talking about visual characteristics, and the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as a separate structure;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular plastic panel ceiling profile, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
• Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
• If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. An important point - the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or a construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after the ceiling is fully assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage, the installation of the structure does not end.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you must observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the interior of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. A mounting plate is cut off from it and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, plinth and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling separate holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires powered by a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it is necessary that it be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

One of the simplest suspended ceilings to perform is a ceiling made of plastic panels. This type of ceiling is quite popular due to its functional and aesthetic qualities. Most often it is used in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

This type of ceiling has many advantages.

• Firstly, it is easy to install, making a ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands is within the power of everyone.
• Secondly, this type of ceiling does not require additional finishing, such as a plasterboard ceiling.
• Thirdly, since the ceiling made of plastic panels is a suspended structure, lamps and other communications can be installed in it.
• Fourthly, the plastic ceiling is easy to clean and suitable for use in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom.

Let's now see how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. Structurally, the ceiling of this type is a frame made of a drywall profile and plastic panels attached to it. Therefore, the installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels can be divided into two stages: installation of the frame and installation of plastic panels.

Necessary materials and tools

To assemble the frame, you will need a guide and ceiling profile, direct suspensions, dowel-nails, metal screws. From the tool: a drill or a puncher, metal scissors, a laser or building level, a screwdriver.

Mounting the frame for plastic panels

They start by marking the position of the ceiling of plastic panels on the walls. At this stage, you should determine the size of the gap between the base of the ceiling and the surface of the future ceiling.

This gap depends on the irregularities of the ceiling, as well as on what communications will be laid under the plastic ceiling, and what lamps will be installed in it. In order to make it easier to decide, we can say that to install an average spotlight, you need 7-10 cm of subceiling space. For laying wiring and mounting the ceiling of plastic panels, 3-5 cm is enough.

After the size of the gap is determined using the level, mark the position of the future ceiling. It is more convenient to use a laser level for these purposes.

Fig.1. Installation of guide profiles

The next step is the installation of suspensions. Hangers are necessary for attaching the ceiling profile to the ceiling, thereby increasing its rigidity and strength.

Suspensions are placed at a distance of 60-70 cm relative to each other. Marking for suspensions is performed as follows. The installation locations of the ceiling profiles are determined.

They are located perpendicular to the plastic panels. For a ceiling made of plastic panels, given that they are much lighter than drywall, the profiles are arranged in increments of 60 cm to 1 m. Based on this, the locations of the profiles are marked and suspensions are attached to the ceiling.

Fig.2. Installation of direct suspensions

At this stage, difficulties may arise if you have a concrete floor slab at the base of the ceiling.

The floor slabs are hollow and if the dowel-nail gets into the cavity, it will not hold. This problem can be solved with the help of traditional dowels and self-tapping screws. Therefore, you should stock up on them in advance.

After installing the hangers, you can proceed with the installation of ceiling profiles. They are cut to the desired length and inserted into the groove of the guide profile. Further, with the help of self-tapping screws for metal, they are attached to the suspensions.

Fig.3. Installation of ceiling profiles

Fixing ceiling profiles should be done with care and try not to bend them.

Otherwise, it may affect the evenness of the ceiling. It should also be noted that for the rational use of profiles, mainly for the use of scraps, you can use a special connector for the profile. Thus, reduce costs by reducing the number of purchased profiles.

Fig.4. Profile extension

After the frame for the ceiling of plastic panels is assembled, you can proceed with the installation of plastic panels.

But first you need to install a ceiling plinth. For a plastic ceiling, a special plinth is sold. It has poses for plastic panels.

Skirting board installation

The plinth is fastened along three walls of the room with metal screws to the frame. At the same time, it should be noted that the wall along which the plinth is not installed should be parallel to the direction of the plastic panels, i.e. plastic panels will be mounted parallel to this wall.

Installation of plastic panels. Peculiarities

Now you can proceed with the installation of plastic panels.

Installation starts from the wall opposite the one on which the plinth is not installed. Installation is carried out as follows. Plastic panels are cut to the desired length and inserted into the plinth groove, and on the other side of the plastic panel, it is attached to the frame using metal screws.

Fig.5. Installation of plastic panels

The second and subsequent panel is attached in the same way, with the only exception that it is inserted not into the groove of the plinth, but into the groove of the previous panel. After the installation of plastic panels is completed, it is necessary to install the remaining plinth. A groove is cut off from this skirting board, this can be done with a knife and attached to the ceiling and walls with liquid nails.

The installation of plastic panels has two features that should be mentioned. Firstly, the fastening of the panels must be done very carefully.

It often happens that during installation the screwdriver breaks off, so it is very easy to damage the soft plastic panel. To avoid this, it is necessary to ensure that the position of the screwdriver is perpendicular to the ceiling. In addition, there is another feature.

It is necessary to choose the right bit for the self-tapping screw. The self-tapping screw mounted on the bit must sit firmly on it, otherwise either the self-tapping screw is defective, or the bit is not selected correctly. Not a hard fit of the screw on the bit adds a chance to ruin the plastic panel.

Fig.6. Mounting errors

Secondly, when installing plastic panels, you should not press hard on the panel from the side, this can lead to its curvature and, as a result, the appearance of a gap between the panels. Given that the curvature is not large, this defect usually appears on the last panels, i.e. small distortions add up.

Fig.7. Gap between plastic panels
Fig.8.

That's all that can be said about the ceiling of plastic panels and the installation of plastic panels.

The construction market is now replete with a wide variety of finishing materials.

The main advantages of modern innovations are ease of use and reliability. However, this is not always about practicality in terms of price. In this matter, undoubtedly, finishing materials made of PVC are leading in terms of profitability.

Polyvinyl chloride panels make it easy and simple to sheathe walls with a ceiling in any room. At the same time, you should not worry about the costly alignment of the base of the wall or worry about the exorbitant cost of installation work. Making the same suspended ceiling with your own hands using PVC panels is not difficult, even without many years of experience in repair work.

What will be required?

So, now we will consider exactly the option of mounting a false ceiling using PVC panels as a finishing material. To do this, you will need the necessary minimum of tools, PVC panels and the required mounting elements. More specifically, you will need the following tools:

1. screwdriver or low-speed drill;
2. tape measure, bubble level, water level;
3. a hammer;
4. miter box, hacksaw, construction knife.

PVC panels are used as material.

According to generally accepted standards, panels can be 25 and 50 cm wide. The main parameter when buying is the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball elements in the package. When calculating the required amount, you should calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the suspended ceiling will be installed, and increase the resulting amount by 10-15%, taking into account the trimming of the material.

To fix the panels on the ceiling, use special fasteners and form a frame. By themselves, PVC panels are quite fragile and soft, so for reliable fastening you will need a strong frame with frequent crates.

A U-shaped plastic profile is used along the perimeter of the room, into which the edges of the panels will be inserted. As an alternative, you can choose a color-matched ceiling plinth for PVC panels, which is already equipped with a U-shaped groove. In high-quality execution, such a plinth is a prefabricated structure, in which the U-shaped groove is assembled from two parts to facilitate installation.

For the crate, you can use a wooden beam measuring 20X40 mm or a metal profile as for drywall. In the bathroom or in the kitchen, a wooden beam will not work due to high humidity. However, due to the simpler installation of a wooden beam and the fastening of the panels themselves to it, it can be used in a bedroom or living room.

The second parameter for selection is the price of the material, in this matter it is only necessary to check the availability and price in your region. When using wood in any form in construction, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants before installation. The latter is necessary to improve the refractory properties of wood.

PVC panels of various standards

In addition, there are plastic or aluminum profiles especially for PVC panels. If the sheathing will be carried out along the ceiling with small differences up to 4-5 mm and with a minimum lowering of the false ceiling, the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling may turn out to be completely simple. The profiles are made with a special groove in the center for fastening to the base and for fixing the clips that will hold the sheathing panels.

Of the hardware, you will definitely need plastic dowels and nail-screws for them (an alternative can be anchors with a wedge for driving). They will fasten the frame elements and profiles around the perimeter to the walls and ceiling.

The frame itself is assembled using screws with a drill tip for a metal profile and wood screws for a beam. PVC panels can be fastened either with screws with a press washer or with special metal clips. The approximate number of all hardware can be calculated after the method of fixing the ceiling is chosen, and after reading the installation instructions.

Preparation stage

Even considering that the ceiling is out of sight, it should be cleaned of all elements that may subsequently fall off or sprinkle on the mounted false ceiling: damaged plaster or putty between the plates, whitewash, old finishing material, etc. The entire surface of the ceiling is primed.

Only after that you can start marking for the installation of the perimeter and frame. To do this, draw a line on the walls throughout the room, which will indicate a single level of the future ceiling.

The ceiling should be lowered taking into account which lighting fixtures will be used, the presence of hidden wiring or other communications, as well as the irregularities of the ceiling itself. For wiring, you should take into account the mandatory presence of a gap between the upper edge of the frame and the ceiling of at least 1.5-2 cm. As a guideline from which the lowering will be measured, you should choose the lowest place on the ceiling.

As soon as the first mark is set, you can transfer it to all four walls along the edges using a water or laser level.

To outline the line around the entire perimeter, you can use twine, richly painted over with bright chalk. By pressing the edges of the twine against the wall along the marks, you can slightly take it away and let it go. As a result, the chalk will remain on the wall.

When the perimeter is outlined, you can begin to mark the location of the supporting elements of the frame. Profiles or beams should be placed perpendicular to the future direction of PVC panels and at a distance of 40 to 60 cm. At a greater distance, suspended ceilings from panels may sag slightly during operation.

Advice: No matter how much you would like this, there are still cases when both the floor and the ceiling of the premises in multi-storey buildings of mass development are not leveled, and it is extremely expensive to fix this. In this case, it is better to deviate somewhat from binding to a strict level and draw a perimeter line with a certain slope so that the difference between the planes of the ceiling and the floor is not visually striking.

Frame installation

Option 1: plastic crate

A plastic U-shaped profile or a plinth with it is attached around the perimeter of the entire room so that its lower border runs along the previously drawn line. To join the profiles in the corners, use a miter box and a hacksaw.

This is the only way to get a beautiful cut and a minimum gap. The profile should be fixed every 25-30 cm. Further, to facilitate the process of mounting the frame, you can pull a thread or fishing line across the ceiling so that it forms a plane along with the upper edge of the profile.

Option 2: wooden frame

The wooden beam is attached to the ceiling with dowels and impact screws, every 60 cm. In order to bring them into the same level along the bottom edge, you can use wooden linings between them and the ceiling.

Option 3: metal profile

The metal profile, as in the case of drywall, is attached using U-shaped elements located every 60-80 cm. The so-called "pawns" are most conveniently attached to the ceiling with anchors with a driven wedge, and to the profiles using screws with a drill tip.

There is no need to mount jumpers between the carriers of the frame, however, they will be needed in places where it is supposed to fix something heavy, for example, a chandelier.

At the end of the installation of the frame, power cables for lighting are laid. When using PVC panels, wires must be laid in corrugations to ensure fire safety. In places where spotlights will be installed, it is enough to leave loops 10-15 cm long.

Installation of PVC panels

Now, when the frame is ready and brought to a single level, you can proceed with the installation of suspended ceilings.

This is the least troublesome and at the same time responsible process. The first strip of material is inserted into a U-shaped profile. Some masters cut off a latch along the edge at the first strip.

As soon as the strip is in place, it is fixed with screws or clips to the supporting profiles of the frame, without missing a single one. You can cut a strip of the required size with a hacksaw or a simple knife. The material is fairly easy to cut.

Important: PVC panels should be cut to a length slightly less than the distance between the walls. There must be a gap between the strip and the walls, about 4-5 mm from each end.

The next strip is applied to the lock at a slight angle and led into it along the entire length. After that, the second side is pressed against the frame and also fixed with screws. In order to tightly bring the strips together, you can use a bar or a piece of the same PVC panel, which is inserted into the groove and gently hammered all the way with a hammer.

The main thing is not to bend the strips of material in any case and not to apply too much effort during installation. PVC panels are quite fragile and even inaccurate hand pressure can leave a dent that cannot be removed. Installation is best done with a partner or using simple supports with crossbars.

The main difficulty may arise when installing the last strip.

In one embodiment, you can turn the strip with the lock in the other direction and cut it along the length from the side of the groove to the desired width. Further, having attached tightly to the previous panel, the last element of the ceiling is also fastened with screws. When using collapsible skirting boards, it is easier and more reliable to simply cut the strip to the width and snap the lock with the previous strip, as in all other cases.

If it is planned to install spotlights in the ceiling, it is naturally more expedient to think it over in advance and insert spots “on the ground”. Read more about the installation of lighting in a plastic or any other ceiling - read the link.

Completion

After all the strips are installed, you can start finishing. When using a U-shaped profile around the perimeter, a plinth is installed separately.

It is best to fix it on liquid nails. At the same time, it is better to apply them only on one side of the plinth. That is, the plinth is attached either only to the wall, or only to the ceiling.

In the case of a collapsible plinth, the mating part simply snaps into place. In the corners, you can use special adapter sleeves or cover the gaps with a sealant of a suitable color.

In pre-marked places, holes should be made for the output of lighting wires or for the installation of spotlights. The same work can be done during the installation of the ceiling.

At the very end of the work, the fixtures and all the equipment necessary for them are installed directly. It is advisable to adhere to generally accepted standards, and in the case when a suspended ceiling is mounted in the bathroom, then install low-voltage lighting fixtures with a converter instead of the usual circuit using 220 V. However, the fact that the ceiling of PVC panels is to a certain extent not afraid of moisture can be guaranteed to secure themselves from the effects of moderate flooding by neighbors from above.

Video: an example of installing PVC panels on the ceiling

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One of the most practical options for finishing a room is to assemble a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands.

And this is no coincidence. After all, panels based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC) have a number of useful properties. Thanks to this, the ceiling made of plastic panels perfectly competes with drywall, armstrong, and even stretch ceilings that are now popular.

Advantages of plastic panel ceiling

To answer this question, it is necessary to reveal all the positive properties of pvc panels. The main advantages of plastic panels over competitors are as follows:

Firstly, it is a moisture resistant finishing material.

He has proven himself in rooms with high humidity, whether it is a bathroom or a toilet. Moreover, the ceiling of plastic panels is not only not afraid of high humidity, but quite calmly tolerates any flooding. Therefore, if your neighbors on the floor above have a habit of forgetting about the open faucet in the bathroom, such a ceiling will be an excellent solution to reduce losses from such comrades.

Secondly, it is a very affordable material in order to ennoble the ceiling. Therefore, in addition to being used in the bathroom or in the toilet room, it is successfully used for arranging loggias, balconies, corridors. It is also popular in suburban buildings, such as country houses.

Another plus of this material is that it is very convenient and easy to use.

In order to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you do not need an expensive tool. In addition to this, it is worth saying that plastic ceilings are very easy to care for. They are simply wiped with a damp cloth, do not need regular painting and have sufficient strength for the ceiling.

However, before you use this material, you need to know about its shortcomings.

First, it initially emits a specific smell.

After all, it is a product of chemical production. This point should be taken into account. It is not advisable to install such panels in fire hazardous rooms, since they release toxic substances when burned.

Of the shortcomings in the design plan, the following point should be noted. Due to the fact that the panels are joined to each other, even with high-quality work, microscopic seams between the panels are visually noticeable. Especially if white panels are chosen for the ceiling decoration.

And yet, if you use pvc panels in suitable rooms, you can get a practical and beautiful ceiling.

How much material is required to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands?

In order to construct a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands, you will need the following materials.

– PVC – panels;

- moldings for them or accessories;

– material for the frame (wooden bars, metal or plastic profiles);

- fasteners for the frame and panels;

- wiring, in case of installation of lighting fixtures.

Calculation of the number of pvc panels

To do this, you need to accurately measure the dimensions of the existing ceiling. Next, you need to decide how the pvc panels will be located - along the larger side of the room or across it. If it is planned to mount the panels along, then the quantity is determined as follows.

Quantity (pieces) = Room width (cm) / Usable panel width (cm)

The formula is correct provided that the length of the room is no more than the length of the panel.

With a transverse arrangement of PVC panels, their number is calculated as follows:

Quantity (pieces) = Room length (cm) / Usable panel width (cm)

At the same time, if the width of the ceiling is equal to or less than half the length of the panel, then the amount must be halved, since trimming can also be used.

The store has panels with a usable width of 25cm and a length of 270cm. In this case, it is more profitable to place the panels across the loggia and cut two from one for the ceiling. Then

(350/25)/2=7 . You will need seven panels.

And in general, with regard to the location of the panels relative to the ceiling, it is often done out of a desire to minimize the number of trimmings.

And about the dimensions of the panels that are most found on sale, we can say the following. The most popular pvc panels are 270 cm and 300 cm long. Depending on the width, there are such - 25cm; 33cm; 37.5cm; 48.5cm.

PVC panels come in a wide variety of colors. Moreover, there are matte or glossy. For their fastening to the crate of the frame, self-tapping screws with a press washer 9-13 mm long, small nails and metal staples for the stapler are suitable.

Frame material calculation

Since the ceiling is suspended, you will need material for the manufacture of the frame. The frame can be assembled from wooden blocks, usually 25 x 40 in size.

But only if we do not plan to make such a ceiling in a room with high humidity. In this case, it is not advisable to use wood for the manufacture of the frame and profiles should be used. Moreover, the cost of wooden bars is comparable to the cost of metal profiles, which means it is more reliable and practical to use them for the frame.

Do-it-yourself ceiling frame made of plastic panels

To build a metal frame, it is convenient to use a ceiling profile.

You will also need guides of the appropriate size. And for attaching the frame to the ceiling, suspensions will be required. Fastening suspensions to the ceiling and guides to the walls is conveniently done using dowel-nails measuring 6 by 40 or 6 by 60.

To assemble the frame, the so-called "bugs" are useful. This is such a small specific self-tapping screw, in which the hat resembles a trapezoid in cross section.

Do-it-yourself ceiling made of plastic panels. Mounting methods

The most difficult and important part in arranging a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands is the correct installation of the frame. If in the future it is required to install built-in lights, then the design of the plastic ceiling frame should be 7 cm lower than the existing one. This is exactly the distance that allows you to install lighting fixtures.

Having assembled the frame, you need to take care of the lighting and lay the wires for the lighting fixtures. After that, you can finally start fastening pvc - panels to the crate.

Methods for mounting plastic panels

The first option is how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands - using moldings or accessories. To do this, a final element or, in other words, a “start” is attached around the perimeter of the frame.

Usually L = wall length - 1 cm. This gap will make it easier for us to install the first panel. Trimming is conveniently done with a paint knife on a metal corner.

Sometimes solid panels come across and they will have to be cut with a jigsaw or, in its absence, with a hacksaw with fine teeth.

The other side is called the wide mounting shelf. It must be fixed with screws to the frame.

How to fix the ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands

Then we insert the next panel with a narrow fastening part into the groove of the first until it stops, so that there is no gap between them, and fasten it to the frame. The following are installed in the same way. The last panel should be reduced and cut lengthwise by 5-8 mm from the side of the wide mounting part relative to the final molding.

Then install it in the groove of the last “start” and slide it into the groove of the penultimate panel. There is no need for subsequent fasteners. In places where it is planned to install ceiling lamps or chandeliers, an additional crate is pre-mounted.

The second way is how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands - without the use of moldings. This option is very similar to the first one. The only difference is that the first and last panels are additionally fixed from the extreme sides with fasteners.

And the gaps between the panels and the wall are then closed by gluing ceiling plinths made of expanded polystyrene.

In such a simple way, you can assemble a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. Dear readers, I hope this material of the site will help you install a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands without waste of time and effort and appreciate its practicality.

Today, there are many materials for modern ceiling design. However, plastic panels remain the most popular and in demand for several years. They gained such popularity due to excellent technical characteristics, affordable price, ease of installation.

Panel types

Today, hardware stores and markets offer a wide range of this material. There are wall panels - heavy and rigid, as well as ceiling panels - more fragile, on which each careless pressing with a tool can leave a mark. That's what we'll talk about today, since our task is to learn how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. Is it possible to do it yourself? The work is not difficult, but requires accuracy and attention.

PVC panels that sheathe the ceiling are glossy, matte and colored. Matte samples do not have any coating, are considered the cheapest. Glossy panels are covered with a special varnish. Images from thermal film are transferred to color.

Advantages of panels

According to experts and ordinary buyers, this material is moisture resistant, has the effect of sound insulation, does not require special care, and is durable. In addition, behind such a ceiling, electrical wiring and communications, panel seams, irregularities and other existing flaws in the ceiling are easily hidden.

A suspended ceiling made of plastic panels is not recommended for installation in rooms with a possible temperature difference exceeding 15 degrees. Do not carry out assembly work at low temperatures. If the panels have been stored in the cold for a long time, do not rush to unpack them. They need to "lie down" in the room where they will be installed for at least two days. The polyethylene film that covers the front side of the material is removed before installation in order to prevent unwanted surface damage.

The ceiling of plastic panels is most effective when the plates are located on the longer side of the perimeter.

Preparing for installation

This is one of the few materials that does not require serious surface preparation before installation. Installation of ceilings from plastic panels is carried out on a surface previously cleaned of the previous coating (if any). You can treat it with an antifungal primer.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

You will need the following materials:

• plastic panels;
• for large rooms direct suspensions;
• self-tapping screws for the frame;
• nails or dowels;
• plastic profile or ceiling plinth with corners and liquid nails glue.

How much material is needed

Calculate exactly the area of ​​​​the ceiling, divide the resulting figure by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe panel (this figure is indicated on the package), add 15-20% to the amount obtained, rounding up.

Then you need to calculate how much mounting profile is required. To do this, you need to draw a diagram of the ceiling to scale. On one side of it, draw strictly parallel horizontal lines at a distance of 500-600 mm. This is the markup for attaching mounting profiles. Based on this, calculate the total number of required profile. It is also necessary to calculate the consumption of fasteners that you will need for the profile and panels. Dowels should be purchased at the rate of 2 pieces per 1 meter of panel length. Self-tapping screws with wide caps will need 1 piece per 50 cm of panel length.

To calculate the amount of plastic ceiling plinth, it is necessary to divide the length of the ceiling perimeter by 3 and round the resulting number upwards. You also cannot do without the necessary tool. This is:

Leveling the ceiling

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels should be perfectly flat. How to align it? Measure the height of the room in all corners, select the lowest one and step back 5 cm from it. If you want to build in fixtures, then the indent must be at least 10 cm. Draw horizontal lines using a level - profiles will be installed along them. Next, cut to size and drill holes for dowels along the marked strip. Insert dowels into them and fasten around the entire perimeter.

Lathing installation

Cross profiles are installed strictly parallel to future panels. They must be installed at least 450 mm apart. The ceiling profile is cut into segments of the required length and attached to the guide profile using self-tapping screws. The installation of profiles is controlled by a level. In small rooms, profiles can be fastened together. As a plinth, you can use a mounting plastic profile with a recess. Panels are inserted into it. This profile is attached to the guides on three sides of the perimeter.

Panel mounting

Carefully measure the plastic panels with a tape measure and cut them to size. The very first panel is slightly bent and one end is inserted into the plastic plinth, then the same is done with the second end, then it is moved and the long side is inserted into the side plinth. In the same way, the second panel is inserted, which moves close to the first and is inserted into the groove of the previous panel. The panels are attached to the transverse profiles with self-tapping screws. All subsequent panels are installed in the same way. If you plan to build in lighting, then holes for lamps are cut in the panels first and wiring is laid. The last panel is cut lengthwise to the required width. This is done with a regular knife. Then it is installed in a plastic plinth and wound into the grooves of the previous panel.

The ceiling of plastic panels (you see the photo in this article) is appropriate in the bathroom, in the kitchen, in the hallway, on the loggia.

Common Mounting Mistakes

It is not difficult to make a ceiling from plastic panels. In addition to the material and tools, you will need accuracy, attention and compliance with certain rules that will save you from common installation errors. Do not glue the panels to the concrete ceiling with adhesive - ventilation between the panel and the ceiling is necessary.

You already know how to make a ceiling from plastic panels, but pay attention to their quality - the result of the work largely depends on this. Enticed by cheapness, you may soon notice surface deformation, loss of color. Cheap plastic is transparent, turning on the light, you will see all communications on the ceiling.

Some craftsmen, who may not know how to make a ceiling from panels correctly, change the metal profile to wooden bars, instead of using self-tapping screws they use brackets. Such replacements are not equivalent, they can create additional problems, especially in rooms with high humidity. The wooden base quickly swells, begins to warp, its appearance is lost, and as a result, the entire structure may collapse.