DIY wall bracket for monitor. Do-it-yourself TV mounting on the wall with and without a ready-made bracket

The monitor does not have a standard VESA bracket mount, and the monitor needs to be hung on the wall? No problem - we'll do it ourselves!

For many years, the excellent Samsung T220 monitor has served me faithfully. I bought it when large widescreen monitors were just starting to spread. A 22″ monitor with a 16:10 aspect ratio with a beautiful picture, unattainable by many modern monitors. Everything would be fine, but now it became necessary to hang the monitor on the wall, and this monitor model does not have a standard VESA mount for mounting on a bracket.

Unfortunately, I did not take photos of how it was, so I'll just attach the images that I found on the net.

The task is to disassemble the monitor, make holes, install the mounting screws, assemble the monitor and screw the mounting pad from the bracket to the screws.

To install the monitor on the wall, an inexpensive, but convenient and reliable bracket was purchased. Holder LCDS-5039.

So, we disassemble the monitor. It is not difficult to do this - we unscrew the two self-tapping screws at the bottom of the monitor, having previously unhooked the monitor stand, and carefully remove the back cover (it is fastened with latches). I did not record these operations.

We fasten the mounting pad from the bracket. The assembly site smiles at you. :)

This is what the fixture looks like from the inside. To distribute the load, I used enlarged washers on both sides.

And this is what the disassembled monitor looks like. Display, electronics and standard stand.

We install the back cover in place, snap it tightly and do not forget about the two self-tapping screws at the bottom.

All connectors on the rear panel are closed with a cover (not in the photo). True, I didn’t return it to this place — I don’t see the point. Next, the bracket itself and installing it on the monitor (how it will look).

The next step is marking the holes on the wall, drilling holes and installing the bracket. I must say that the walls in our house are terrible - voids and other delights. I drilled two holes out of three well and reliably, and the third fell into the void. But everything was securely held on two dowels. True, I realized that I hung the monitor a little high and the next day I decided to lower it 5 cm lower. I had to tinker. I re-drilled the holes a few times, all of them came across voids. Postponed for a day. And today, instead of dowels 6 * 80, I used the “eight” (I don’t know the length, 12 centimeters). Achieved reliability and still left. Now we need to find wallpaper scraps to seal the holes. However, nothing is visible behind the monitor. =)

Here's what happened.

And here's how it was. Sorry for the quality of the photo - taken with a phone.

As you can see, free working space. Now not two, but three cats will fit on the table. =)

Mounting the monitor on the wall - do it yourself

A 17″ monitor restored from several faulty ones worked honestly for several years as a TV with an external TV tuner (5 years ago it was more profitable than buying LCD TV), but the time has come and it took a working monitor of substandard appearance. Everything would be fine, but the support leg has not been preserved for so many years. I tried to make a foot stand from improvised materials, what happened, see below.

How to make a DIY monitor stand

1. For the manufacture of the legs, three-layer plywood from a packing box with a thickness of 6mm was used.

2. For the leg - stand, you only need three parts. A large plate 29 cm high, 32 cm wide at the base and 18 cm wide at the top. And two support plates 23 cm wide and 7 cm high. Future blanks are drawn in free form with rounded shapes on a sheet of plywood. For more stability on not flat surface on each plate are formed on the edges of the legs. The assembly scheme is simple. The plates will be connected to each other in a groove.

3. First, we cut out a large plate with a jigsaw - an electric jigsaw. It is important to carefully cut the grooves, their width should be slightly narrower than the width of the plywood, this is necessary for a tight connection of the components.

4. We cut out the base plates. Carefully mark the depth and width of the groove on one plate. Then we tighten the plates with clamps and cut out the groove on two plates at once - this will allow us to get two identical grooves.

5. Check the assembly of the leg, if assembled structure stands on a flat surface on 6 supports, so everything is done correctly.

6. We mark and drill holes with a diameter of 4.5mm to mount the monitor to the support, here it is better to make a template for holes for precise drilling.

7. To refine the details, we sand the surfaces of the blanks sandpaper and round off top edges. You can cover the design made with your own hands with varnish or paint. For creative natures, such a home-made leg for a monitor is probably a godsend for original modding by coloring, embedding shelves, speakers, chargers, etc. into the leg.

Important questions you will have to answer yourself before you hang the monitor on the wall without a bracket. Lack of shelves and other additional structures supporting massive technique is not always justified. And the TV to be repaired is easier to repair if it is not suspended. It is better to entrust the matter to a specialist, if not, video materials and recordings of master classes that abound on Internet portals will come to the rescue. For the rest, you will have to rely on yourself, the strength of the wall and the reliability of auxiliary structures.

How to hang a monitor on a wall without a bracket: “reinforcement from the rear” will come in handy.

How to hang a monitor on the wall: what is taken into account?

Initially determined with the type of TV. CRT electronic "creations" are unlikely to look harmoniously on the wall, which, most likely, will not have to be tested for strength for a long time - there is a high probability of tearing out fasteners. Monitor installation features:

This method is suitable for LCD and plasma models.

· Given the maximum proximity of the equipment to the wall, it will have to be connected if the connectors are located on the sides.

・Need to pick optimal location for the monitor. It makes no sense to hang it under the ceiling, similarly - and close to the floor (then it is more convenient to install a shelf or bracket). The ideal height is at the eye level of a person who watches TV while sitting.

An important detail: the wall chosen for mounting must be "in the possession" of the owner of the TV, since it will have to be strengthened with reverse side.

Is it right to hang the monitor on the wall?

There are no questions about the thickness of the wall (lucky if it is brick), they get bolts of the appropriate length (to pass through the wall and an additional metal plate, reach the monitor).

Important! Despite the harmlessness to the vision of modern screens, they are hung at a calculated length - it is calculated based on the length of the diagonal of the equipment, multiplied by three. Install the TV according to the scheme:

1. Purchase a perforated plate, which will be fixed for strength on the back of the wall. It should exceed the perimeter of the TV itself by 4 cm.

LCD (LCD), LED (light-emitting diode) and plasma TVs in the interior, they finally “waved the handle” of cabinet furniture and went over to the realm of decor and decoration. The reason is obvious: a flat-panel TV is like a picture in a frame and therefore fits seamlessly into almost any room design. Along the way, the usable area is freed up, which simplifies and reduces the cost of repairs with furniture.

However, at the same time, the happy owners of a high-tech window to the world face a far from idle question: how to hang a TV on the wall? 28-inch (28”, 71 cm) LCD weighs under 15 kg; the same "plasma" approx. 20. When recommended by doctors optimal distance viewing in 3 screen diagonals in an ordinary living room, you can also place a 35 ”TV set. The back walls of all of them are thin, most often plastic. It is clear to a second-year hedgehog that a TV set will not hang for a long time on a pair of some hooks, a special holder is required. Which, in turn, must be securely fixed to the wall.

There are more than enough offers from the hangers, but the prices for work ... In general, it turns out that the price in rubles for mounting the TV on the wall is obtained by multiplying the diagonal of the screen in centimeters by 100. For the "plasma" the allowance is approx. 10%, and for fastening to drywall, PGB ( tongue-and-groove blocks) and so on. "Problem" (weak) walls - another 20%. Perhaps the masters develop their own tariffs from some other considerations; say, the cost of working time and the cost of an hour of life of his family. However, the results of statistical processing for the regions of the Russian Federation give the above values. Considering that many people have to take out a loan to buy a TV, the first question - how to attach the TV to the wall with your own hands - becomes no less relevant.

What about the bracket?

Ergonomically, fixing the TV on the wall is only possible in some cases. Although the FOV of modern flat-panel TVs is typically at least 120 degrees horizontally and 60 degrees vertically, health requirements for long-term viewing impose additional restrictions: up to +/-30 degrees from the horizontal axis perpendicular to the center of the screen; slope of the screen plane vertically up to +5 (up) and -15 (down) degrees. If long-term viewing is possible sitting and lying down (studio apartment or small-sized living-bedroom apartment), the vertical tilt is acceptable in +/-15 degrees. Those., the system for fixing the TV to the wall must ensure its rotation / tilt within certain limits so that the eyes of the viewers are in the indicated areas, and best of all - directly against the center of the screen.

Note: in what cases and how to mount the TV on the wall possibly tightly / motionless, will be discussed further.

Prices for TV holders do not seem to bite very much: a good one for a diagonal up to 30 ”can be purchased for 2000-3000 rubles. , and one that can withstand it on a solid main wall - less than 1000. But if the TV is credited, then this amount can also matter. Hence the third question: is it possible to make a TV mount on the wall with your own hands? There seems to be nothing complicated in store products; for swivel hinges, small garage hinges (say, 10x120) or split door hinges with a ball bearing will do. Well, let's see at work.

Watch the video. It is not educational, selected by the number of viewer comments.

Video: how to hang a TV on the wall

If we discard the purely “goblin (troll)”, then it is still clear: there are more than enough completely justified questions and comments on the quality of the work and the progress of its execution. Although, it would seem: well, what kind of skill is needed here, to drill holes in the wall, drive dowels into them and put iron on self-tapping screws, specially designed for this?

When mounting on a purchased bracket, related problems are possible. For example, its reach when folded is 40 mm, which is attractive aesthetically. But the outlet has already been moved up so that the TV covers it. The protrusion from it is a power plug with an axial input of the power cord, which is most often supplied with TVs - from 60 mm. Cut the cord and fit a side entry plug? The warranty is lost, because. almost all TVs have a power cable that is not detachable.

Or vice versa, the TV for viewing in the sleeping area must be rotated 80-90 degrees. But then the usual “breaking” bracket will be needed such that when viewed in the living area, its hinge will stick out on the side and reduce the entire interior design to laughter. And for hanging on a special bracket for such cases (see below), an ordinary TV is not suitable.

On the other hand, in 2 parts of another story, it is shown how to make a TV bracket yourself.

Video: do-it-yourself LCD TV bracket

The finished product turned out to be quite solid, but only with the 1st degree of freedom (see below), which is far from always acceptable. The work is not simple, and the savings are no more than 3000 rubles. at the very best.

Based on these conditions, it is possible regarding the purchase or self-manufacturing TV bracket give the following recommendations:

• First of all, according to the requirements of health care, ergonomics and interior design (in that order), you need to find a place on the walls for a TV with satisfactory load-bearing properties of the supporting surface: with a TV weighing 10 kg, each of the 4 points of its attachment to the wall will have not less than 20 kgf; This is where the rule of thumb comes into play.
• Then select the appropriate mounting design.
• If it is possible to use welding equipment, access to metal-cutting machines, appropriate working skills and some supply of suitable scraps of metal (steel pipe from 25x15x1 and sheet from 1.5 mm), then you can make a TV bracket with your own hands. saved Money enough to mark the successful completion of the work.
• Otherwise, search the web for a product that suits your requirements. The choice is immense, but how to choose a TV mount with skill and do it yourself, this is all the subsequent material of the article.

How is the TV attached to the wall?

The vast majority of TVs are designed for mounting according to the VESA system, which is based on mounting modules (typical distances between hole centers) of 75, 100, 200, 300 and 400 mm. The exception is TVs with a screen diagonal of more than 25” (63.5 cm) for studio apartments or other residential premises with combined functionality, i.e. with sleeping and living areas in one room. We will remember about these, but for now let's take a look at VESA.

Note: socket for placing on the “leg” of the stand, TVs are not suspended on brackets, because. small footprint. When manipulating the TV on the bracket, large concentrated loads will occur in the socket and it will quickly collapse. Such an incident, of course, is not guaranteed.

On TV

TV attachment points for VESA modules are located on its rear panel, most often in 4 or, in rare cases, in pairs, pos. 2 in fig. The “quadruple” VESA is most often organized in the form of a square, pos. 1 or more or less elongated rectangle, pos. 3 and 4. Sometimes, but very rarely - in the form of a trapezoid, isosceles or oblique.

Regular fixing bolts, pos 1-3, are often already wrapped in the attachment points. If not, when buying, look for them in a separate package and do not use others: landing the TV on non-standard fasteners completely voids the warranty.

Attaching the TV to a Hanger or Bracket

Sometimes, as a rule, in "cool plasmas", standard fasteners are poorly visible (pos. 3), bolt heads are designed for special tools (for example, a 5-point wrench), and even filled with soft plastic. This means that a certified master must hang the TV on the bracket. At the end of the work, he puts his personal stamp in the warranty card and makes a note on the completion of the work; otherwise, all warranties will be void.

The same situation arises with respect to televisions with steel back wall, on which there are stampings for fastening with regular, and only regular, non-removable screws (red arrows in pos. 4). Such TVs are most often anti-vandal and "anti-theft"; fastening with self-tapping screws is intended for installation in public premises. For residential, as a rule, the usual VESA is provided (orange arrows), but be sure to check the user manual to see if a non-proprietary installation is acceptable, otherwise the guarantee is kandyk.

Note: the price of TVs according to pos. 3 and 4 above at branded dealerships typically include on-site installation within the city limits. Brackets are also often offered for some extra charge or bonus.

On bracket

A diagram of a standard VESA mounting platform (cross, butterfly, crab, windmill, cuttlefish - simply) is shown in pos. 5. It can be made independently from durable laminated plastic (getinaks, textolite, fiberglass) with a thickness of 4 mm or sheet steel from 1.5 mm. In the latter case, it is highly desirable to stick elastic pads on the seating surface, for example. from cork or linoleum; a purchased bracket is also better to take with gaskets, because. any mechanical damage to the TV case, even minor scratches / dents, give a formal reason to refuse warranty repairs.

A simplified VESA wall mount for TVs up to 12” (30.5 cm) is shown in pos. 6. This just makes complete sense to do with your own hands; say, for a small TV in the kitchen. To mount the entire suspension, first attach the support bracket to the wall a, then to the TV mounting bracket b. Two people put the TV in place: one holds it, and the other tightens the locking bolts in. Removal as needed - in reverse order. “Telk” with a diagonal (8-10)” can generally be hung together with a hook attachment. Only, God forbid, not on silumin or plastic: they tend to suddenly break off under load for no apparent reason.

brackets

Most often, TVs are hung on “breaking” (breaking) brackets with 3 degrees of freedom: turning sideways, moving sideways, tilting, on the left in Fig. If there is a need to rotate the TV by more than 75-80 degrees, it is necessary that the full extension of the bracket rod (distance A) be at least half the overall width of the TV. It is also highly desirable that the far hinge B be detachable without tools, this will make it much easier and easier to fit / remove the TV.

TV brackets with different degrees of freedom

Note: inexpensive brackets with 3 degrees of freedom, as a rule, are mounted only on solid walls. Mounting them on PGB and GKL (drywall, see below) is most often impossible.

For fixed mount much cheaper holders with the 1st degree of freedom are used, allowing only to adjust the screen tilt, on the right in fig. They also allow installation on weak walls, so it is desirable, if the purpose and functionality of the room allow, to find a place in it for a fixed TV suspension.

Landing a TV on such a holder requires two people: it, with mounting units B pre-screwed to the body, is held from the sides, put on the support bar G. The “single-free” holder allows you to mount very large TVs with mounting modules over 400 mm and generally non-standard. However, if the mounting points of the TV are not in a rectangle, installation may not be possible as the ability of mounting assemblies to skew is very limited.

Special cases

Compact, with increased bearing capacity, tv bracket

For frequent manipulation of a large TV in multifunctional rooms, a pantograph or parallelogram mount and beam suspension is required to securely mount the TV on the wall, see fig. on right. VESA without beams (shown by red arrows) in this case will no longer be reliable: it quickly weakens, and even the case cracks. In addition, the pantograph arm folds compactly, and the TV can be pressed against the wall.

The unconditional disadvantages of pantograph brackets, firstly, are the prices for them themselves: an order of magnitude, literally, higher than for turning points. Secondly, a special TV is also needed, with combs on the back panel for attaching beams and handles on the sides, for which it is dragged back and forth, also seen in fig. on right.

A special TV will also be needed for installation in a niche flush with the wall, without clearance on the sides. It's all about cooling: you need to provide air circulation behind the TV. Not only "plasmas" are sensitive to overheating; for LCD / LED, working without heat removal, screen separation before the expiration of the warranty is a common thing, and any more or less experienced repairman can determine the cause exactly. From the LCD / LED "TV" with a delaminated screen, it remains only to remove the electronics for spare parts, and throw the rest away.

Note: Screen delamination appears first as a colored moiré, which quickly turns into dark or light spots.

Scheme of installing a TV in a mounting box

TVs for installation in blind niches are equipped with a special mounting box. In addition to VESA, they have hooks on the side of the case for hanging in a box. The installation diagram of the TV in the mounting box is shown in fig. In addition to niches, these are hung on very weak walls; as a rule, at least 8 attachment points to the bearing surface are provided in the box.

For fastening conventional brackets to solid walls, fasteners, unless otherwise specified in the specification for the TV, are selected according to the following rules:

• Dowels - at least propylene, and preferably steel;
• For walls made of PGB (foam blocks, cinder blocks), dowels are only propylene;
• Diameter of self-tapping screws in mm - not less than the first digit of the screen diagonal size in inches, but in any case from 4 mm;
• Deepening the self-tapping screw bearing wall, in mm, not counting the thickness of the finish - not less than the diagonal size in cm +10 mm for concrete walls, not less than the same diagonal length in cm +30 mm for brick walls and not less than 1.5 diagonal in cm +50 mm for walls from PGB.

For example, a 12 inch (31 cm) TV. The diameter of the screws is 4 mm. Deepening in concrete wall from 40 mm, in brick from 60 mm, in PGB from 95 mm. Diagonal 28 ”(71 cm) - respectively from 7 mm, from 80 mm, from 100 mm and from 155 mm.

Drywall

The above does not apply to plasterboard walls, they are painfully weak. For mounting on a main wall with sheathing, dowels are driven into a load-bearing wall; holes in the casing are drilled, under the passage of the dowel head. The dowels are upset to the place by tapping with a hammer on a steel bar spacer; a 6-sided socket wrench of a suitable (so as not to fall into the dowel) size will do.

If the partition is entirely drywall on the frame, then, firstly, the thickness of the sheathing should be from 12 mm. Otherwise, we are looking for another place for the TV or put it on a cabinet. Secondly, the weight of the TV per 1 point of attachment to the wall should not exceed 5 kg, i.e. when fastened to 4 points, it should be no higher than 20 kg. Thirdly, the distance between the centers of the mounting holes must be, in mm, at least 20 TV weights in kg. AT this example- from 400 mm.

Fasteners for a TV bracket on a plasterboard wall

Also, instead of simple dowels, anchors are used, with legs diverging, in mm, by at least 2 TV weights in kg; in our case, not less than 40 mm to the sides. Attachment points should not be too close to the frame and not too far from it; Approximately permissible distances of the ends of the "spread out" legs from the frame elements are shown in Fig.

It remains to decide how to find the elements of the crate if their location is unknown. In the case of a steel profile crate, a simple metal detector will help out here. Not an expensive field one, with which treasure hunters scavenge beaches and popular picnic spots, but a construction one, which you can do yourself without delving into the wilds of electronics.

A means to find in amateur conditions uneven bars wooden frame under drywall - a medical stethoscope. First, by tapping the knuckles on the wall, they find a place where the sound is louder. Then, tapping in the same place, they listen to the wall with a stethoscope. Over the bars of the crate, the sound is sharply weakened.

Straight to the wall

If in a room with a TV it is possible to organize a permanent viewing area for a long time, then in all respects it will be optimal to fix it tightly to the wall, without a bracket. The design of the holder without degrees of freedom can repeat that of the "1-free" bracket; drawing - on pos. 1 fig. Material - thin-walled perforated steel profile: corner 80x60 and U-shaped 40x40. Trimmings can always be bought at hardware stores or from drywall masters. The smaller shelf of the corner is folded in half and slightly folded up.

Mounting the TV on the wall without a bracket

When suspended on such a holder, it is possible to set the screen tilt angle once by placing spacers under the upper or lower VESA bolts. For angles of +/-15 degrees and a viewing distance of 3 m, this will allow you to change the height of the suspension within +/-0.8 m, which is enough for most interior solutions.

A very simple way to hang a TV without a bracket is a piece wooden board thickness from 30 mm, pos. 2, and furniture hinges for shelves, pos. 3. To avoid "non-warranty" due to scratches on the case, it is better to attach them to a plywood gasket, pos. 4. If you take the carrier bar with a width of 150 mm and attach it in the corner, with a pair of self-tapping screws on each edge, then for a TV with a diagonal of up to 70-85 cm it is possible to organize a long viewing area in the Khrushchev living room 3x4 m, where cockroaches nowhere to roam, pos. 5.

Where to put the wires

To modern TV, with considering available sources signal and the possibility of using it as a PC display, fits up to 6-7 cables. In addition, it is fundamentally impossible to place an effective acoustic design in a thin flat case, and full “juice” sound can be achieved only with the help of remote speakers ( acoustic systems, speakers), this is another 2-3 cables. Such a “broom” even in the dark will spoil the impression of both the interior with the TV and the transmission, even if its plot is of this kind, from which some categories of viewers forget everything in the world, on the left in Fig.

How to hide the wires from the TV

The way to hide a bundle of TV wires is well known: it is a piece of cable box in a color and texture that matches the interior. Attaching shelves for the tuner, DVD player, USB and media containers to it is not a difficult task for home master middle level, center and right.

You can also find advice to pass the wires under the drywall through 2 holes in the casing, at the top and bottom. Let's say it's still possible to catch their ends at the bottom with a hook. We also assume that the connectors on the wires will be mounted after. But how to pass the elements of the skin frame? It remains to be assumed that the authors of these recommendations simply do not know that the wall is sheathed along the crate.

Garage-shed-cottage

Old "Cinescope" (CRT, with cathode ray tube) bubble TVs. They can also be hung on the wall. We do not touch lamp-semiconductor "coffins"; workers, they are valuable technical antiques and there is no need to finish them off. Let's deal with the later single-board with a slotted mask in the tube.

Internal Basic structure still vigorous CRT veterans can be in the form of a frame made of steel profiles or a three-dimensional frame made of a round bar. You can recognize them by the mounting legs: the first ones show the heads of rather powerful bolts with wide washers. For such pipes from 25x15, you can make a cantilever bracket, pos. 1 in fig. To attach a TV to it, holes are drilled in the consoles for the bolts of the legs; regular ones need to be replaced by others, with the same thread, but elongated by the thickness of the consoles + the depth of the hole in the leg. There is a nuance here: the bolts must be changed one by one, and the TV should be carefully attached to the consoles, otherwise its “offal” may shift. It will not break, but it will be difficult to catch the "left" nests with bolts without disassembly.

How to hang an old TV on the wall

CRT TVs with surround power frame hung on the wall even easier: on a cord with loops at the ends, pos. 2 and 3. The hinges are clamped under the standard rear cover mounting bolts. By pulling the cord in the holes of the plywood holder-lufer, you can adjust the tilt of the screen. Such a mount looks curious, but it is quite reliable and practically free.

Note: as a technical curiosity, the fact that in pos. 4. A steam locomotive will withstand something, but the design ... Unless the owner longs to inexorably and inexorably hang a one and a half meter plasma in the garage.

More about brackets

So, the final answer to the original question: how to hang a TV on the wall, step by step comes down to the following:

• Choose a place to mount the TV; primarily on mechanical characteristics bearing surface.
• Based on them, the weight and dimensions of the TV, we determine the method of its attachment to the wall.
• We choose a bracket or holder suitable for all available conditions, make it or purchase it ready.

The first 2 points are entirely up to you. The main criteria for choosing a bracket are set out in the text of the article. Just in case, in conclusion, we give another video on how to choose the right TV bracket:

Video: how to choose a TV bracket

Many personal computer users are often very positive about working with two or more monitors. With a second monitor, you can expand the working field and more evenly distribute applications, programs, individual windows, etc. between them. And considering the relatively low cost monitors, a "spare" monitor can already afford much large quantity users.
However, there is one rather unpleasant characteristic in working with two monitors from different manufacturers: in most cases, the stands of the models are different, which means that they also have different heights. Of course, we must not forget that in order to install two or more monitors, you will need large surface table. All this bunch of inconveniences is easy to solve with a special bracket for two monitors.

First of all, we didn't want to go too far and just buy a ready-made bracket for two monitors, but after looking at the offers on the Internet, we realized that the cost is very high and almost comparable to the price of a new monitor. After that, we turned our attention to all kinds of mounts for one monitor. Of course, you can buy several and just attach them to the table, although here the price tags turned out to be “biting”. There was only one thing left - to make the bracket with our "crazy" handles.

What you need to assemble a bracket for two monitors
The chosen material should be, first of all, strong and very reliable, since it should be taken into account that each monitor weighs several kilograms. We chose as the basis aluminum profile by 15 millimeters. It is a lightweight material with sufficient strength. For other parts, we used 2 mm aluminum sheet. The stand can be ordered at any furniture workshop or store. The main thing when choosing a base is weight and area. The larger they are, the more stable the whole structure will be.

Part preparation
We drew all the drawings in advance and printed them on self-adhesive paper. After that, we pasted the drawings onto the existing blanks, and sawed them out with a tool that was convenient for this. In our case, we used a grinder, although everything can be cut out even with a jigsaw or with a regular hacksaw for metal. After that, you need to drill all the holes. This must be done very accurately, because otherwise the bracket will be crooked and oblique.

In order to be able to adjust the distance between the monitors and their height, we made several holes at intervals of 20 millimeters. Thus, it will be possible to adjust the height of the monitors and the distance between them.

After the work done, it is necessary to sand and process all the edges, because we do not want to scratch brand new monitors. Only in the last turn we bend the mounts of the base and the monitor itself. For this procedure, we use a homemade bending machine, although you can only attach the workpiece to the table with a bar and bend it with a hammer.

Assembly
Finally, all the details are ready, and we begin the assembly. First, we fix the edges together, and here we missed one very important point. To maintain the rigidity of the structure at the junction of the rails, it is necessary to use a square of metal, which can rigidly fix the position of the profile.

After that, to the base with rivets, we fix the corners to fix the structure to the base. Then we bolt the monitor holders, and thus we get an almost finished bracket for two monitors.
At the very last turn, we attach the entire structure to the stand. Here it is important to install the frame as correctly as possible. You need to calculate the distance so that the installed monitors are on the line of the center of the stand. If you mount them too close to the edges, then there is a chance that the monitors will fall backwards, or worse, "facing forward".