Gcl on a wooden frame. Wooden frame for drywall - which timber to choose and how to fix

Over time, every house, apartment needs to be renovated. This becomes especially important with the advent of children in the family. To create a children's room in a one-room apartment, it is not necessary to build a brick wall. , created by yourself, will delimit the room, while improving the design. The partition frame for drywall is created from wooden beams or metal profiles.

Drywall partition for room zoning

In both cases, you should carefully study the action plan, familiarize yourself with the generally accepted rules.

To create a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame, you need to take into account some factors that will determine the duration of the structure's service life and its functionality.

1. The wooden frame is installed only in a dry room.
2. The partition is placed in a room without sudden changes in temperature.
3. The wooden frame is installed in apartments, houses without obvious movements.
4. In a private house there is a high probability of damage to the tree by insects and rodents.

Creating a frame for a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame

If all of the above factors are excluded, the room is conducive to the construction of a partition with a frame of wooden beams.

Materials for wooden frame partitions

Materials are required to create a wooden frame. Before starting work, you should prepare some materials.

A prerequisite when creating a partition, the wood for the wooden frame must be dry

Wooden beams for the partition frame

What kind of wood is needed for the partition frame? For a high-quality frame base of the partition, ash, beech, pine, maple wood is used - I-II grade. Conifers contain a large amount of tree resin, which prevents rotting, they are less susceptible to damage by insects and rodents.

The size of the material is selected based on the dimensions of the partition. You will need bars with a section of 60x80 mm. For greater stability, 50x100 mm bars are purchased on the base of the frame (top, bottom).

Wooden blocks 60*80, 50*100

Before using wooden beams for installation, it is required to carry out some operations:

1. All wood used in the creation of the frame base should be dried. This may take up to 1 week.
2. After drying, the tree is treated with an antiseptic. There are many solutions for wood processing on the construction market. Pricing policy depends on the manufacturer.

Wood antiseptic

For confidence in the processing, drying oil is used. It dries for a long time, but it is 100% processed material. For processing drying oil should be heated in a water bath. When warm, the agent penetrates deeper into the tree. The ends of the bars should be very carefully treated with drying oil. In some cases, the beam should simply be lowered with its end into a container with an antiseptic.

Cooked drying oil in a water bath

When drying, 20% of the tree changes its appearance, which should be considered when buying.

Other materials

Instruments

To create a frame of wooden beams for a plasterboard partition, you will need a set of tools:

1. Pencil or chalk.
2. Meter, plumb lines, level.
3. Perforator.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Saw or hacksaw.
6. roller.
7. A set of spatulas with different blade sizes.

A set of necessary tools for working with GKL

If it is not possible to purchase a power tool, you can rent it.

Work plan for the installation of a wooden frame for a partition made of plasterboard

To build a solid wood frame for a plasterboard partition, you should act according to the plan.

Preparatory work and drawing

The first step in installation is surface preparation. This requires an analysis of the surface of the floor, adjacent walls, ceiling. The entire surface must be level. If you attach a flat wooden beam to the wall, there will be a gap of 0.3 mm. This is not critical, but a gap of 0.5-0.8 or more will affect the structure, since when the beam is fixed, it will bend. Therefore, the entire surface must be flat.

The deviation of the surface from the norm should be no more than 0.8 mm.

Be sure to keep the room dry and clean. To do this, remove all objects that interfere with installation. Clean out debris, remove dust and cobwebs. It is desirable to treat the surface boundaries with a primer mixture with an antiseptic.

When the surface is prepared, you can start drawing on paper. First you need to decide on the type of partition. Will it be up to half the room or in the form of a wall? Will there be windows, doors or an arch? This should be reflected on paper.

The next step is measurements. All taken dimensions along the perimeter, as well as the estimated window and door openings, are applied to the drawing of the partition.

Scheme of a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame

Vertical racks are placed every 40 cm. Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction of drywall sheets. In the place of the doorway there is a strengthening of the horizontal beam. In the place of a niche that will be functional, there is also strengthening. In the case of sheathing a partition with two layers of plasterboard, a calculation will be required for the horizontal jumpers of the first layer of plasterboard (joints) and the second layer of sheet joints.

Marking for a wooden frame partition

For marking you will need a level or a laser. With accuracy, it is required to mark horizontal lines on the ceiling and floor, and a strictly vertical strip on the wall. Fastener points are marked on these lines. And also it should be noted the boundaries of the doorway.

Marking for a future drywall partition

In order for the marking to be accurate, plumb lines should be used. They are dropped down from the ceiling. The cone of the tool does not reach the floor by 1-2 mm. A fixed plumb line on the ceiling line with its end of the weight shows the exact point on the floor. Plumb lines should be hung at least at three points across the entire width of the partition.

Installation of a wooden frame

Installation of the frame base begins with the fastening of a wooden beam to the ceiling. There are some nuances here. If the ceiling is wooden (private wooden house, shingles), then ordinary wood screws 3.5 * 35 are used. If the base is concrete or brick, then wooden beams are fastened to the wall, floor with dowels-nails, to the ceiling with an anchor-wedge.

Initially, a wooden beam is attached to the ceiling

All guide (main) bars are attached in increments of 30-40 cm. This will give reliability and strength to the entire structure. If the plaster layer is unreliable, there is an option to replace the dowels with wooden pegs. They are tightly driven into the wall, sometimes they are smeared with alabaster solution from above, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed in.

Vertical bar fixed on the wall

After fixing the guide at the top, attach the beam at the bottom. This should be done very carefully, since the evenness of the partition depends on this procedure. The last beam is fixed to the wall, thereby tying the floor and ceiling fixed materials. Should be a frame. Metal corners are attached to all internal 90-degree corners. This is an additional fixation of the reliability of the frame. The corner is made independently in the absence of furniture parts.

Installation of vertical racks

Now you need to install the vertical racks. They are created from a tree of the same section as the strapping. The racks are fixed with wood screws. For strength, metal corners are installed. In the place of the planned door, the vertical posts are reinforced (2 knocked down bars).

Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction of the drywall sheet. As well as reinforced horizontal lintels are placed in the places of the created niches and at the top of the doorway.

Installing and fixing the horizontal jumper

In the place of the doorway below, the wooden beam will serve as a threshold. But, if this element is not provided, the tree is cut out, and the edges of the timber are additionally fastened with self-tapping dowels.

Wiring

In this type of construction, communication is impossible. But, if it is necessary to make a backlight, a socket, a switch, then along the path of laying the wires, small diameter holes are made in the tree with a drill.

It should be noted that the wires through the holes in the tree should be only using corrugations or inserted metal tubes to avoid fire.

Wires run through these holes. Wiring must be done in accordance with the wiring diagram. It should be kept. In places of switches and sockets, space should be allocated for the box.

Mounted boxes for sockets and switches in a wooden frame

Wall cladding with drywall provides for a device or wooden beams. Metal crate is mainly used, it is more durable and practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden bars with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds, for the construction of the frame. In places with high humidity, as well as where an increase in the fire resistance of structures is required, only a metal frame is used.

What beam is needed

For the installation of wooden frames, a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls) is chosen. Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening on the wall and ceiling is performed dowel-nails. In concrete surfaces, holes are first made with a puncher with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners. They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The wooden guide rails are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).

The metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings.

The connection of the elements of a wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are fixed directly to the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled with special compounds or by laying wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

The set of rules for design and construction has the basic requirements that must be followed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

1. All products and materials must have a hygienic conclusion and fire certificates;
2. In the space between the frame and the draft base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, fire insulating material;
3. Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant drywall sheets should be no more than 10%;
4. Sheets GKLVO (moisture and fire resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not more than 90%, temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them for surface treatment, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used;
5. To fasten sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
6. With longitudinal placement of sheets, the step of their fastening is made no more than 60 cm, with a transverse one - no more than 1.25 m;
7. To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide bars, ceiling and floor;
8. Sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (in different directions) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge ​​with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
9. The joints of the sheets in their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, in the case of a horizontal one - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
10. The step of the bearing bars on the ceiling is 50 cm with a transverse arrangement of the GKL, 40 cm with a vertical one;
11. GKL fastening step on the ceiling - no more than 17 cm.

Step by step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the completion of wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after finishing and laying engineering communications. All work is carried out in the following order:

1. markup;
2. Frame assembly;
3. Installation of sheets;
4. Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling with a chopping cord, the position of the future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is performed by a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical racks are noted, taking into account the selected step.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical racks. To do this, they make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembly of the frame

On the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is embedded in the frame

Attention! If it is planned to place a heater in the space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take this into account at the stage of calculations by placing the starting beam at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is reinforced with racks placed horizontally between them.

Laying communications

If you plan to place sanitary piping and low-voltage wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), you need to do this after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Mounting sheets

Sheets are placed on the frame, fitting close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in a vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping screws are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw entered the material not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced with another one, located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first one.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. Corners are processed using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with a solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is fastened to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling is easily putty, you can embed lighting in it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of the house.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Installation of drywall is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.

To date, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

1. On adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
2. On wooden slats-profiles;
3. On metal.

Drywall in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material, directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since it is likely that the GKL (gypsum boards) will sag or fall off altogether.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.

Most often, options are used using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Wooden slat frame

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of flaws in the ceiling, while not sacrificing much of the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality bars and slats, perfectly dried in the chamber, are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not be deformed and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

• Before proceeding with the installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from her that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and with the help of a level we draw a flat horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then your end point will coincide with the start.
• Further along this horizontal along the entire perimeter, with the help of self-tapping screws, we fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!

• Next, we fix the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure the reliability of fastening the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars, located in parallel, should not be more than 0.8 m.
• In a perpendicular direction, we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, a single-base frame will suffice, in which the adjusted wooden bars to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for fixing the plasterboard. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

• We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening step of 0.8 m. In the case of a two-layer sheathing, the step is reduced, because double the weight of the binder. The attachment points of the bars located in the neighborhood should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
  Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is carried out with a step of attaching the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be made 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fixing the second hemmed layer, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, it is necessary to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.

Fastening beams to the ceiling

Base bars to a wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal hangers with a wire hanger. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the plasterboard and the ceiling surface.

We fasten the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the plasterboard, there is a D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Drywall on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not so difficult if there is a detailed instruction. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.

What is the frame made of

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are fixed to them, on which drywall is mounted. The cross section of the profiles has a U-shape. And rack profiles are similar to the letter “C”.

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of suspensions, it is possible to correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give the frame structure relative rigidity.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient direct hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to the manufacturing defects.

Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cruciform joints, which are also called crabs. If you are going to install the ceiling in a small room, then this will not take you much time and effort, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and GCR, you will need the following tools:

• gun for driving dowels;
• knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• felt-tip pen;
• level (2-3 meters);
• drill;
• a hammer;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
• metal profiles;
• drywall panels.

First you need to determine where in your room is the lowest corner, and then measure the distance from it that you need to lower the frame. After that, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be quite enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. It is necessary to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room with metal scissors and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after puttying and painting all joints will crack.

In the event that you will install a chandelier or ceiling lamp, then it is necessary to mount mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the GKL. For this you will need: a clerical knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.

Then we fasten the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Slightly sink the heads of the fixing screws into the drywall panel. The next step is gluing the sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.

To date, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. He is often used to level the floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to walls, and also get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before embarking on the study of such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth understanding what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard gypsum and special fillers inside. It is used for a wide variety of purposes. Sheets with different thicknesses are produced for different jobs. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose materials of a suitable category.

Peculiarities

Today in the stores of building and finishing materials you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. To level the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose “dry” material for such work - drywall.

To date, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many. It is faced by both owners of private houses and city apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not hold securely, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials even emphasize the bumps on the walls.

In such cases, you can not do without a perfectly even and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible to process and can be covered with almost any canvas and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more difficult.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which consists in fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to restore its original appearance. That is why ordinary drywall is not suitable for the manufacture of, for example, arched structures, since it will simply break with slight bending.

Another distinctive quality of drywall is its multitasking. It is used not only to level different bases, but also to make interesting multi-level ceilings, shelving with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

First, let's get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of drywall sheets:

• They are distinguished by a flat and smooth surface, because of which they are chosen for leveling various bases.
• The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. In a room where the walls are sheathed with this material, it will always be warm and cozy.
• Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It does not contain dangerous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
• GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

• Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Due to this quality, such material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and fungus.
• Often, consumers buy drywall, as it has an affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
• Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various heaters (more often foam and mineral wool are preferred).
• Working with drywall is quite simple. You do not need to buy expensive tools for this.

• Using this finishing material, you can realize any bold design ideas. That is why drywall is used by many designers in their designs.
• Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
• GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
• It is seamlessly processed. To do this, you can use almost any material, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

• Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. It can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvases.
• Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
• With the frame method of fixing drywall, draft walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously with the help of special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
• Many consumers purchase drywall for repair because it can be used immediately after purchase, letting them lie down for 2-3 days without undergoing additional preparation.
• To date, the choice of drywall sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

• Ordinary drywall is not recommended for installation in rooms with a high level of humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
• Drywall sheets may begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, hanging bathroom sinks, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight on plaster walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in place for long, and then just fall off and damage the drywall.

• Work with drywall must be very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material unless it is arched.
• Drywall on the frame will "eat up" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all areas.

How significant are the listed disadvantages - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly follow the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install drywall on partitions in your home, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will need:

• special knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• special glue (for frameless mounting method);
• building level, plumb line, special marking cord, tape measure, long ruler (you can take a rule instead), pencil / marker - you will need these tools for marking walls and for competent control of the verticality of surfaces;
• regular and rubber hammers;

• spatula (you can take a trowel instead);
• a separate container for mixing the adhesive composition;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• self-tapping screws;
• dowel;
• screws;
• electric drill with mixer attachment;

• roller with a long handle;
• soft brush;
• planer (needed for chamfering);
• putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work has been completed).

From the materials you will need:

• GKL sheets (regular, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
• galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with an appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and seamlessly fixed on various grounds.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log house. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that wooden houses always shrink and gypsum boards can only be installed in them after this process is completed. Otherwise, the sheets may be damaged under such conditions or deformed.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses, you must:

• provide space for the installation of insulation (unless, of course, you plan to additionally insulate the room);
• have free space for laying communication systems.

Aligning the walls in wooden houses is not an easy task. In this case, the best option would be frame mounting. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to the boards and bars, and then drywall is glued to them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces, it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such bases using special glue. Such adhesives are very common in stores today. For example, the well-known company Knauf offers a high-quality Perlfix composition.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also refer to the usual gluing of the material without making the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level how curved the floors are, after which any dirt, dust and grease spots are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be absolutely dry, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve sufficient adhesion with drywall even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to align the walls of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is due to the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before that, the foam block must be prepared - finished with soil or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require alignment. In such cases, both frame and frameless mounting methods can be used. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. Glue in such cases must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with foam block ceilings. Experts recommend using compositions from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall can make the walls smooth even in adobe houses. Such buildings are full-fledged composites built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such building materials, there is no need to talk about perfectly even partitions. For this reason, they simply need leveling sheets such as drywall.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that drywall sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or in a frameless way. The choice of one or another installation option largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

Go to profile

This option for installing drywall is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some of the nuances of this common installation method:

• A heater can be placed between the wall and the profile, if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, foam or polystyrene for this. However, we must not forget that the draft walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
• In the cavity behind the frame, various engineering communications can be hidden. It can be water pipes, radiators or electrical wiring.
• Do not forget that in rooms with a high level of humidity it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets in such conditions will not last long.

Mounting drywall sheets on the frame has several advantages:

• with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
• frame installation allows you to align even ugly curved walls;
• before installing the frame and fixing the drywall, the draft partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk on them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the frame:

• First you need to measure the walls and make markings on them for the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
• Marking for guides must begin with the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the ceiling, then a line is drawn and transferred to the floor with the help of a plumb line.
• Vertical profiles must be placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each drywall sheet rests on three racks.
• As for the installation of suspensions, here it is also necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

• After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, along the perimeter, you need to fix the guide profiles. To fasten them to the ceiling and floor, you must use a puncher, dowels and screws.
• At the points marked during the measurements, you need to attach the suspensions.
• Carriers should be inserted into the guide profiles and fixed with hangers.
• Fasten all the details as reliably and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

• Before installing drywall sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
• When the frame is ready, you should proceed to install drywall sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly "drowned" in the drywall.
• After installing all the sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using reinforcing tape.
• When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely puttied. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it should be borne in mind that such a design will take up part of the area in the room, so in a very small room it is better to use the frameless method, unless, of course, the ceilings allow it.

Profileless structures

The frameless fastening of drywall is also called adhesive, since with it the sheets are fixed on the ceilings with the help of a special adhesive.

When choosing this installation option, you must comply with the following conditions:

• on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
• crumbling areas should also not be;

• walls should not be subject to freezing;
• they must be protected from moisture and excessive moisture;
• from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contaminants.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be accessed if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

Glue plasterboard on the base can be in different ways.

The best option must be selected based on the technical condition of the floors:

• The first mounting method is designed for more even surfaces. With it, the fixing of gypsum boards occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
• If the floors have irregularities on their surface, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum sheet (keep a distance of 35 cm between the heaps of glue), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering in more detail the instructions for the profileless installation of drywall sheets:

• First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of drywall slabs.
• Then you need to correctly prepare the surface of the base. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
• Now you need to cut the GKL sheets, as you will need not only whole panels, but also pre-prepared inserts.
• To make a straight cut, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make curved cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

• Prepare the glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum mortars, which harden for a long time.
• If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then it is worth adding wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the water for dilution.
• Now you can start gluing drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of ​​irregularities on the base. If the overlaps are sufficiently even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
• To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth putting beacons. They can be built from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued around the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

• The right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
• After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the extreme beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
• Align the beacons with the rule.
• Gypsum boards must be pressed using the rule set in the various provisions. Tap the panels with a rubber mallet and correct their position.
• When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline in matters of wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called unbearably difficult and energy-intensive.

To get a more aesthetic and reliable design, Consider the following advice and recommendations from professionals:

• It is permissible to install gypsum boards in the room only after laying the floor coverings. Also, by the time the floors are leveled in the room, all issues related to laying communications and heating systems should be resolved.
• When gluing drywall (with a frameless method), try to avoid cruciform joints. It is better to lay out sheets with an offset.
• Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets for profileless installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
• In order for the drywall to hold securely on the floors, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling and falling apart sections in the walls.

• With the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for better sealing of all finishing seams). For this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
• It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distractions and without wasting time on unnecessary activities.
• Adhesive compositions must be diluted, based on the instructions. It must be printed on the packaging.
• Do not over-tighten fasteners on drywall as this can warp the brittle material.
• To work with drywall you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

• Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
• Plasterboard sheets are recommended to be installed on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after they lie down in your house for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

Drywall is a multifunctional building material of our time, with which you can sheathe any room in home. To create a frame base for gypsum boards, you can use wooden or metal profiles.

Most often, a metal frame is used in repair work, which provides greater structural strength. But making it is much more difficult than from wooden slats. Therefore, along with metal, a wooden frame for drywall is often used. Wood is an environmentally friendly material and this is another reason why many people prefer it as the basis for home renovations. Moreover, such a frame is much easier to make at home.

In order for the wooden structure in the house to serve for a long time, the tree must be properly prepared. This material is highly susceptible to biological corrosion, climatic influences and burns well. Therefore, before making a wooden frame or partition, the tree should be prepared according to the rules.
Note! It is best to make a partition or frame from conifers.
Before starting, chemical treatment is usually carried out. To do this, wooden slats are treated over the entire surface with antiseptic substances. This will help you prevent:

• damage to wood by mold or fungal microorganisms. And under their influence, the tree deteriorates very quickly;
• the risk of damage to the tree by arboreal insects that use the wood as food;
• biological decay;
• damage to the bars by rodents that can be found in a house, especially a country one.

Today, the market is replete with a wide variety of antiseptics. But the best is sodium fluoride. It penetrates very deep into the wood and is poorly washed out of it.

It should be noted that sodium fluoride does not decompose and cannot lead to metal corrosion. It is also non-toxic to humans and odorless, which is a great advantage for treating wooden beams and battens with this substance at home.
In addition to sodium fluoride, sodium silicofluoride with the addition of soda ash is also used for wood treatment.
In residential premises it is strictly forbidden to use the following types of oil antiseptics:

• coal;
• creosote;
• anthracene oils;
• shale.

When processing wood with such substances, a person can harm his health!

Before carrying out the installation of wooden planks, the slats must be in the room where they will be fixed for several days. Thanks to this, they will undergo sufficient acclimatization.
Remember that the slats must be made of quality lumber, which must comply with fire safety and humidity requirements.

The seller, upon request, is obliged to provide you with a certificate or certificate stating that the material has been treated with a flame retardant and has passed a special examination by authorized bodies.

Creating a drawing

Before starting mounting wooden structural elements, you should draw a drawing.
It is created like this:

• measure the length of the room;
• measure the height of the room;
• multiply the resulting numbers and get the perimeter of the room;
• then we measure the perimeter of windows, doorways in the same way and put them on the drawing.

Drawing

By creating a diagram, you can evaluate the range of upcoming work and decide on the amount of materials. With it, you will make the correct frame, and you will not have to bend the elements and tamp them so that they fit perfectly into the structure.

Tools for the job

You can make a wooden frame for drywall using the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• a hammer;
• construction knife;
• concrete drill with impact drill;

Tools

• wood saw;
• plumb line, tape measure and pencil;
• building level;
• screwdriver, crowbar;
• brackets, dowels and screws.

With this toolkit at hand, it will be very easy even for a beginner to make a wooden partition or frame.

Installation work

Installation of a wooden structure for drywall involves the following processes:

• tracing (marking) of the wall. We put all the elements of the drawing on the wall;
• we measure the distance of the plane of the future partition and retreat from it to the width of the GKL. You should start from the ceiling. We hammer in a nail and hang a plumb line on it. We mark a point on the floor;
• by connecting these two points, you will get the first line;
• then repeat the procedure;

Note! You can do it a little easier. Attach the GKL sheet to the wall (short side) and simply draw a perpendicular from a given point.

• then we begin to make the installation of the frame. We fasten the bars along the lines. Wooden beams should not be bent, otherwise they can simply be broken. You can fix it with both self-tapping screws and spikes (in a wooden house). In a stone house we use screws, dowels, brackets or direct hangers;
• along the walls and ceiling we fasten solid bars. Remember that it is impossible to bend a solid beam, so changing the design will no longer work. In this regard, make all fastenings with a level check;
• along the floor, the divergence of the bars on both sides of the doorway is allowed;
• when the opening is located near the wall, we use a solid beam running on one side of this opening;
• Next, we carry out the installation of vertical rails. We install rails strictly according to the level. You can bend them slightly if the rail is slightly uneven. But don't overdo it or it will break.

finished frame

Note! In order to make a wooden structure, you can use bars and slats of different sections. The choice of section should be made depending on the method of sheathing and the height of the partition. You also need to take into account the level of load that the frame will experience in the future so as not to bend its elements.
When the frame is ready, you can install the doorway:

• on the sides of the opening it is necessary to install two risers. The width of the doorway should be 4 cm more than the width of the door frame itself;
• we strengthen the risers with additional bars;
• at the level of the door frame, add 2.5 cm and install a horizontal lintel. To fix the jumper, it is not necessary to bend it;
• we connect the jumper with the ceiling rail using two vertical bars. They will make the structure more rigid. They will also be needed for fixing drywall sheets in the future;
• Next, attach the racks. Their step, so as not to bend the frame, is 60 cm;
• in the case when the ceilings are slightly higher than the length of the drywall sheet, we make a horizontal jumper in order to better join the sheets at the stage of their installation.

Advice. To determine the location of the jumper above the opening, you need to attach a drywall sheet and nail the jumper in place of its edge so that it goes up to its middle.
To increase the rigidity of the structure and the level of load it can withstand at the junction of the beams, metal corners and linings should be used, which are designed to collect truss systems. Thus, you prevent the mechanical destruction of the frame and make it more resistant to mechanical influences from the outside.
The finished structure and each of its details should be checked during installation by the building level. Racks must go strictly vertically, and all jumpers - horizontally. In this case, the racks should be positioned in such a way that the maximum possible number of whole sheets of drywall fit on the wall. As a result, you will save not only time, but also reduce material consumption.
A wooden crate for drywall is quite easy to do with your own hands, subject to a number of rules and technologies. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and you will get even the most complex elements of it.