Laminate over underfloor heating ultrasonic scanner. Laminate for underfloor heating: marking features, which underfloor heating is the best, do-it-yourself installation of a film heater under a laminate floor

Floor covering made of laminated board fiberboard or MDF is a relatively new material that began to appear on the Russian market in limited quantities only in the early 90s of the last century. The novelty immediately "came to the yard." Due to its aesthetic appearance, ease of installation and affordable price, this flooring, which began to be called "laminate", began to actively replace traditional expensive parquet, less aesthetic linoleum and other materials.

When the “warm floor” system became widely used for additional heating, it was immediately combined with a laminate. However, you need to know that not every type of this decorative flooring is able to withstand even minimal heat, as well as temperature changes. Therefore, so that the funds for repairs are not thrown to the wind, it is necessary to figure out how to choose for a warm water floor, and how to install it.

How to choose the right version of the laminate for the "warm floor"?

Basic requirements for a laminated coating for a water "warm floor"

When choosing for flooring over a water "warm floor", you must, firstly, consult with a sales consultant. And secondly, carefully study the markings of the models offered in the store. The manufacturer must include in each package of such a floor covering a special information leaflet, which indicates the main necessary characteristics. After reviewing this information, you can independently determine how suitable this model is for a certain type of underfloor heating.

The vast majority of modern laminate flooring is able to withstand the maximum heating temperature of the "warm floor" system. However, there are some nuances provided by the manufacturer that will allow the surface heating system in combination with the floor covering to function as efficiently and safely as possible. These points must be taken into account when purchasing the material and operating the finished floor.

• The possibility of using a laminate for installation just above a water-heated floor is indicated by an icon that stylized shows the contour of the pipes and has the inscription "H₂О". It is difficult to make a mistake - each of us has known the formula of water since school years! This marking indicates that the material has passed laboratory tests and is recommended for use in combination with a water floor heating system.

• The material should not pose a risk to the health of living people. During its operation (in its normal state and when heated to operating temperatures), the laminate should not emit at all or, last resort, evaporate the minimum, safe for the human body, amount of toxic substances.

Laminate prices

First of all, this concerns the emission of free formaldehyde from resins used as a binder in the production of wood-based composite materials. Materials are divided on this basis into classes from E 0 (no emission) to E 4 (maximum emission). For laying in residential premises, and above the water “warm floor”, in particular, you should choose a laminate with the designation E 0 or E 1. This, however, will cost a little more, but we will not save on our health!

• In addition to the above characteristics, it is necessary to pay attention to the temperature range indicated by the manufacturer, for which the floor covering is designed. As a rule, the permissible temperature does not exceed 27 ÷ 29 degrees. By specifying such a range, manufacturers not only guarantee the durability and integrity of the flooring, subject to the rules for its operation, but also warn that they are not responsible for its condition when the temperature exceeds the limits.

Such frames are quite normal, since experts do not recommend bringing the surface temperature of the flooring to a temperature above 26 ÷ 27 degrees. It will not add to the comfort of sensations. And yet - with stronger heating, the likelihood of deformations of laminated boards and their interlocks increases. Yes, and the emission of formaldehyde is also activated precisely with an increase in temperature.

• Another important parameter to consider is the thermal resistance of the flooring to be installed above the system. This parameter, according to European standards, should not exceed the level of 0.15 m² × °K / W. The higher this value, the more the flooring will trap heat without transferring it into the room as required.

Typically, the thermal resistance of a water floor laminate varies between 0.05÷0.10 m²×°K/W. This parameter is indicated by the manufacturer in the characteristics of each coating, and directly depends on its thickness and the structural density of the material for its manufacture. However, the calculation of the total parameter is carried out in a complex way, for the entire material forming a layer laid on top of a concrete screed with a “warm floor” contour embedded in it. This applies to both the laminate itself and the substrate, without which its flooring is not made.

After the thermal resistance of each of the materials used for arranging the "water floor" coating is determined, their values ​​are summed up. The result obtained will be an indicator of the resistance to heat transfer of the floor covering. For example, it was purchased with a thermal resistance of 0.06 m²×°K/W, and the substrate used under it has its own resistance equal to 0.04 m²×°K/W. In sum, these values ​​give 0.1 m²×°K/W, which is quite in line with European standards.

When choosing materials, these recommendations should not be neglected, since if a floor covering with a higher total resistance to heat transfer is used, then there may be a risk of overheating of the lower layers of the laminated coating, which will lead to active release of formaldehyde, to surface deformation effects. In addition, the "warm floor" system will not heat the laminate properly, and the heat energy will be wasted, spent on unnecessary heating of the subfloor.

Laminate wear resistance classification

Any laminate is divided into classes according to its wear resistance, including the one that is suitable for "warm floor". The higher the class of the material, the better will be its basic performance characteristics, such as strength and durability. True, with the increase in class, the cost of coverage also increases.

The classification of this flooring is indicated by a two-digit number. The first digit of the value indicates the scope: "2" - residential premises, "3" - public places. The second digit indicates the degree of wear resistance of the laminate:

Laminate classification	Areas of use	Life time
	Living quarters with unexpressed load on floor coverings: office, library, bedroom	One to two years
	Residential areas with medium traffic: living room, children's room	two to four years
	Premises in residential buildings and apartments with the most intensive movement of people: corridor, kitchen, hallway	Four to six years
	Public buildings: separate offices, meeting rooms.	10÷12 years, when using the coating at home.
	Public buildings, areas with moderate traffic: reception areas, boutiques, offices	12÷15 years at home.
	Public places, premises with traditionally high traffic intensity: shops, gyms, cafes, exhibitions, etc.	15÷20 years at home.

In order for the coating to last longer, many owners, despite the recommendations indicated in the table, choose the so-called commercial laminate, that is, classes 3 X. As a rule, the best option for flooring on a water-heated floor is 31 ÷ 32 flooring class. When choosing such a material, it is necessary to check the designation, which will tell you for which floor it is recommended by the manufacturer.

To clarify the question of which class of laminate wear resistance is most often chosen by consumers in practice for a floor with a water floor heating system, equipped in the premises of an apartment or house, one should consider the load experienced by the floors in a particular room.

• Kitchen can be considered a room with a very considerable intensity of people's movement - even simple cooking requires numerous movements. In addition, the whole family often eats in the kitchen; "gatherings" with close friends are often arranged here. That is, several people can be in a very limited area at the same time, as a result of which the floors have

The floor covering of the kitchen is not insured against the ingress of grease, spilled or splashed water from the sink. Yes, the humidity in the kitchen is always high. Therefore, the laminate must have pronouncedly high resistance to such influences, that is, to be moisture resistant. If possible, for the kitchen you need to choose a laminate with a water-repellent coating.

Due to the expected load on the coating, a 32-33 class laminate is best suited for this room. However, these flooring classes often have lower thermal conductivity and higher thermal resistance, which also cannot be discounted. In any case, the icon about the possibility of using it with a water heating system must be mandatory.

Underfloor heating prices

warm floor

• Hallway. This room is a zone with the highest intensity of movement of people, since all residents of a house or apartment, without exception, pass through it several times a day. In addition, dust and dirt brought on shoes from the street is concentrated in this room. You also need to take into account walking in this room in shoes, which negatively affects the outer coating of the material. In connection with these factors, the floor covering must have high resistance to mechanical damage and have good wear resistance and moisture resistance. This means that the best option for this room would be 32 ÷ 33 material class.

• Bathroom. Some homeowners prefer to laminate not only the kitchen and living rooms of an apartment or house, but also. When choosing a laminate for these rooms, it is important to provide for high humidity, which is their integral feature. In this regard, for bathrooms it is necessary to purchase only a moisture-resistant laminate. These rooms also belong to the category of high traffic, so it is better for them to also choose a coating that has a class of at least 32.

• Living room. The whole family most often gathers in this room, but there is no high humidity in it, and the floor in it is usually not walked in street shoes. Therefore, for flooring in this room, you can use class 22 laminate.

• Bedroom. This is a room that is used by a very limited number of residents, that is, a high intensity of movement of people is not expected here. Moreover, the room is most often not operated all day, and it is not entered in street shoes. Therefore, a floor covering of class 21÷22 can be used for it. Children's rooms can also be attributed to this category of premises.

It would be appropriate to make one clarification. The grading into residential (2X) and commercial (3X) laminate was once done largely due to the higher formaldehyde content of materials intended for public use. This was quite understandable - the coating from this turned out to be more durable, and its use in rooms where people are not constantly there did not give much reason to be afraid of a more pronounced emission of fumes harmful to health.

But progress does not stand still. Technologists of leading companies engaged in the production of laminate and other materials of their wood composites have found opportunities to obtain a commercial laminate, in which the formaldehyde emission class practically does not differ from the domestic one, that is, it is within the framework of E 0 - E 1. But the wear resistance of 3X coatings is significantly higher. So for living conditions, a modern commercial laminate is quite applicable. And, if you carefully read the information that is willingly shared on the forums master fitters floors, class 32 laminate is becoming an almost universal material for residential buildings and apartments.

By the way, most manufacturers completely removed 2X laminate from the range of products - due to low demand. All consumers prefer the "troika" ...

But, we emphasize once again: only with a marking on the permissibility of using a “warm floor” water system in the system, and only with a formaldehyde emission class no worse than E 1.

Interlock Types of Laminate

Another important question that arises when choosing a material for installation on top of any "warm floor". What connection is this is it better to choose boards?

So, there is an adhesive method of connecting boards and a castle. For adhesive joining, special glue is used; when locking, grooves and spikes of various configurations are cut out by the manufacturer along the ends of the board, with the help of which the boards are held together.

If it is planned to install the coating on the "warm floor" system, then it is necessary to choose only the locking method of connection, making the installation according to the "floating" technology. This means that the coating is not fixed anywhere on the floor surface either with glue or with self-tapping screws. This is due to the fact that when heated, the material expands, so it should not be fixed in one place, otherwise the entire coating may be deformed.

Laminate board locks come in two main types, called "Click" and "Lock". Both types have a design that works on the principle of "groove-thorn". However, they also have significant differences.

• The connection method "Lock" is otherwise called driven. In this type of lock, one side of the board has a recess-groove of a special shape, and the second end of the board is equipped with a spike that repeats the shape of the recess. It is believed that this type of locking connection is recommended for flooring on the "warm floor" system, since when the material is heated and thermally expanded, the risk of deformation of the coating is minimal.

It is called driven because quite often, when two boards are connected, a small gap remains between them, so you have to substitute a special bar to the outside of the board, through which the board is pushed all the way, that is, until the remaining gap disappears. In addition, it is this type of docking that can be used if it is planned to lay the laminate with an adhesive method, without using a "warm floor".

• The “Click” connection is also the traditional “groove-thorn” principle, but differs from the “Lock” in that when the boards are connected, they are inserted one into the other at an angle, and then, when they are turned into one plane, the lock seems to snap into place and rigidly fixes the boards to each other. It is believed that "Lock" construction laminate is not particularly recommended for laying over a water-heated floor, as a rigid joint can prevent thermal expansion, which can lead to damage to the interlock, as well as deformation of the coating.

However, this information seems to be hopelessly outdated. Now, probably, it will take a lot of time to find a laminate with a Lock connection on sale. Most manufacturers have completely switched to the production of coverings with shaped locks "Click", constantly improving their design. And modern types of laminate with such locks are no longer afraid of the temperature conditions of "warm floors", that is, they are quite suitable for such use. So, again, always pay special attention to the markings on the admissibility of using the coating in a water floor heating system.

Laminate underlay for underfloor heating

It is necessary if it is laid on a concrete screed, in which the "warm floor" system is hidden. This interlayer is designed to prevent friction between the floor covering and the concrete base, which can result in unpleasant creaking. In addition, such a substrate eliminates small irregularities and differences on the surface of the base, provides sound insulation of the coating. That is, thanks to this material, the knock of heels or the jumps of pets will practically not be heard. The possible murmur of the coolant in the pipes of the "warm floor" circuit will also come to naught.

However, along with all this, the substrate should not reduce the thermal conductivity of the finish coat, so its thickness should not be large. The optimal thickness option is 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

There will be no problems with the purchase of material for the substrate, since a wide range of paintings or sheets made on various bases is presented in hardware stores. Sometimes, complete with a laminate, its manufacturers also offer a substrate, which greatly simplifies the choice.

Substrates intended for laying under a laminate on a “warm floor” often have special perforations, that is, small holes that significantly reduce the thermal resistance of the material, but do not reduce its necessary elasticity.

When choosing a substrate material, you should pay attention to the value of its thermal conductivity - the higher it is, the less this layer will retain heat, which is required in this case.

As a substrate for a laminate, materials that meet the following criteria are used:

• Resistant to heating temperatures of the "warm floor" system.
• Environmentally friendly, do not emit toxic fumes.
• Vapor permeable.

Materials with these properties include polyethylene foam and cork backing.

• Polyethylene foam sheets are easy to install, available in a wide range of thicknesses, including those suitable for flooring under a laminate in a “warm floor” system. The material is easily cut, adjusted to any shape of the room, and also glued with a special adhesive tape. Foamed polyethylene is affordable, therefore it is in great demand among consumers.

• Cork roll or slab substrate is less popular due to the rather high price. The material is excellent heat resistance, environmental cleanliness. However, cork is a classic example of an effective natural insulation, that is, it has a pronounced high thermal resistance. This calls into question the feasibility of its use in the water "warm floor" system.

Laminate flooring prices

underlay for laminate

• The perforated substrate has a narrow purpose, therefore it is used specifically for flooring over a warm floor. It appeared on the market relatively recently, so the choice of material is small. An example is "Arbiton Floor Ther", a Polish-made material made from expanded polystyrene with a thermal resistance index of 0.06 m² × °K / W. Experts position it as more effective than polyethylene foam. This type of substrate is produced in the form of plates and rolls, so you can choose the option that seems more convenient for laying.

A rolled polyethylene foam substrate with an aluminum foil coating is placed under the pipes of the “warm floor” system and is designed to reflect the heat emanating from them towards the laminate. Thus, directly under the laminate with a water type of surface heating, it should never be covered.

Find out which one is suitable for laminate flooring from our new article on our portal.

Laying laminate on top of the water "warm floor" system

Tools

To carry out the work on laying the laminate, you will need to prepare tools, without which the installation of the floor covering will be impossible. The list includes the following tools:

• Electric jigsaw or circular saw. You can also use an ordinary hacksaw for wood, but the cut of the board will turn out to be sloppy, and there will be more fuss.
• Tools for measuring and marking are a tape measure, ruler, building corner, pencil or marker.
• Mallet (rubber hammer), tamping bar, tamping bracket - for tamping laminate boards, if a coating with Locks is used. With click locks, they are not required.
• Building level and rule for checking the horizontal surfaces.
• An electric drill and a crown drill of the required diameter - this device will be required if it is necessary to lay a laminate in the area where pipes pass through the interfloor ceiling.
• Expansion wedges - to set the deformation gap between the coating and the walls.
• Ordinary hammer.
• Sharp construction or clerical knife.

Many of the listed tools are usually already in the hands of the repairman. If they are absent, then they should be purchased, since a good owner will certainly come in handy in everyday life.

Carrying out the installation of a laminated coating on a water "warm floor" - step by step

A few words about the installation of the "warm floor" system itself.

Briefly, it should be said about the installation of the water system "warm floor".

The substrate to be laid must be well leveled and carefully waterproofed, since moisture should not enter the system from the outside, and in the event of an emergency - to the interfloor overlap. Then the ceiling (or the base of the floor of the first floor) is reliably insulated in order to prevent significant heat losses, that is, not to waste energy on unnecessary heating down. For this purpose, it is good to use foil heaters that do not let through and reflect the heat transmitted by the circuit towards the room.

Prices for popular drills

Instead of a metal mesh, special thermal insulation mats with a profiled surface can be used. They have special bosses designed for laying pipe protrusions between them. Such a system, of course, is convenient for installation, but such cassette mats cost a lot.

After laying the pipe circuits and checking them for tightness, a concrete screed is poured. As a rule, pouring is carried out with filled contours so that the mass of concrete laid out does not deform the pipe walls.

How to independently mount a water "warm floor" system

The installation technology for creating the system is described in great detail in the corresponding article of our portal. In it you can find recommendations on the choice of materials, layout and connection schemes for circuits, step-by-step instructions that will tell literally everything about each of the stages of this very difficult process, up to checking and launching the finished system.

Some features of installing a laminate on a "warm floor" in a concrete screed

Before proceeding to describe the process of laying laminate, a few words need to be said about some of the nuances of its installation.

• Installation of the coating should be carried out only on the finally matured and dried screed. Moreover, the floor heating system should already be running and tested in operation, so far without a finish coat. This, by the way, will help to fully dry the screed throughout its thickness.

It is allowed to start the system for heating no earlier than three weeks after pouring the concrete screed. However, between starting the system at full capacity and laying the laminate, it is recommended to wait another two weeks.

The temperature of the coolant in the circuits after starting the system is added in steps, no more than 5 degrees per day. After reaching the calculated floor heating level, the system can and should be “driven” in this mode for a couple more days, then turn off the heating.

Should be carried out at normal coating temperature, i.e. when the system is not in operation. It is best, of course, to engage in installation in the warm season. The optimum temperature of the screed surface for laying varies between 15 ÷ 20 degrees.

• The laminate brought into the room must rest for at least 48 hours, that is, fully adapt to the specific microclimate. Humidity in the room should not be higher than 65÷70%. For better adaptation, it is necessary to remove their film factory packaging from packs of laminated boards.
• It is necessary to determine the direction of laying laminated boards. Experts recommend orienting the flooring boards according to the rays of light entering the room through the window opening. And this means that they must be laid parallel to the walls on which there are no windows. When using this technique, the joints between the elements of the coating will be less noticeable, and its decorative effect will be emphasized.

• It is advisable to immediately draw up a layout and cutting plan for the boards - this will help to avoid annoying mistakes. It will be optimal. if the segment remaining after laying the first row can be used to start the next one. But at the same time, it should be remembered that segments less than 300 mm long are not recommended at all.
• Since the first board must be laid so that there is a groove on the outside, the spike located on its other end, located near the wall, must be cut off. But even here special care is needed. You should immediately calculate what width the board will fall on the very last row of laying. If its width is less than 70 ÷ 80 mm, then it makes sense to slightly narrow the first row of boards so that you can reach an acceptable size at the end.

Illustrated installation instructions for laminate flooring

Now that the "warm floor" system is ready, the layout of the laminate laying has been drawn up, you can proceed to the installation of the floor covering. These works are carried out in stages, in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first thing to do after the screed has hardened is to inspect its surface for irregularities and cracks. To check the horizontalness of the plane, the rule and the building level are used. The rule is laid on the surface, and if a sufficiently large gap remains under it, then the floors will have to be leveled, for example, by pouring a self-leveling compound. So, recesses or differences in the screed under the laminate can be no more than 2 mm per 1 meter. If cracks have formed on the screed, then they should be slightly cut to a depth of about 10 mm, and then filled with a cement or polymer-based repair compound. In any case, the laying of the laminate proceeds only after the complete solidification of all repair "patches".
	The surface of the screed ready for laying must be thoroughly vacuumed to collect small debris. Then, in order to avoid crumbling of the screed surface, as well as the formation of dust, it is recommended to prime the floors with a deep penetration compound. The primer will impregnate and bind together the upper, most unstable layer of the screed. The next step, after the primer is completely absorbed and dried, one of the selected substrates is laid on the floors. Usually, one sheet or one or two rows of sheets are laid first. That is, they cover the part of the floor on which the laminate will be installed first. This is done for those reasons that during the laying process the substrate on the site not yet participating in the installation does not interfere, and is not damaged by accidental inaccurate actions.
	As a rule, webs or sheets of the substrate are laid end-to-end. Along the joint line, they are glued with construction tape.
	Laminate installation usually starts from the far left corner of the room. The first flooring board is laid into it and separated from the wall by spacer wedges, which will create a thermal gap that will not allow the coating to deform during temperature changes. If, according to the drawn up scheme, a part of the board should be laid first, then for this you need to mark and saw the whole board. It is laid in a corner with a sawn edge.
	In the example shown, laminated boards with a "Click" type lock are used. The second board of the first row is installed in the groove of the end side of the first at an angle of 15 degrees (in other models, a different angle of inclination may be recommended). Before being inserted into the groove, it is very carefully aligned to the width of the end line. That is, it should not be shifted to one side or the other from the previous board, otherwise there will be problems with laying the next row.
	In the same way, all the boards of the first row are laid, except for the last one. As a rule, it has to be cut to length. In order to accurately fit it in size, it is necessary to focus on a pre-compiled scheme. In addition, measurements are made in situ, taking into account a gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm for installing spacer wedges. To do this, the whole board is laid along the free space on which the segment is to be mounted, face down. At the same time, the end of the board rests against a wedge placed against the wall. Then, a mark is made exactly along the edge of the laid board. Through the intended point, with the help of a construction square, a line is drawn perpendicular to the edges of the board, along which the cut is made. It is most convenient to cut laminated boards with an electric jigsaw.
	In the next step, the prepared segment is mounted in its place, thus completing the first row. The second part of the sawn board can often be suitable for the beginning of the second row, since its boards must be laid with an offset, relative to the joints of the first row, by 400 ÷ 500 mm.
	Next, laying the second row begins. As already mentioned, for this the segment remaining from the first is often used - its castle part is located exactly as it should.
	Since the laminate has a “Click” locking connection, the installation of the boards of the second row (and each of the subsequent ones) is carried out first along its entire length, that is, they are connected at the ends. And only when the entire line of boards is fully ready, its docking with the first row will be carried out along the entire length. The finished strip of the second row is laid so that its locking part is slightly on the counterpart of the already laid row.
	After the assembly of the second row of boards is completed, it rises by about 15 degrees. Its studded side is inserted all the way into the groove of the first row, after which the row is lowered and laid on the floors. With the correct fit of the line, the lock immediately works, and a reliable connection is obtained.
	Each odd row usually repeats the laying of the first, and the even - the second row. In the same order, the installation of the entire floor covering is carried out. The main thing is not to rush to lay out the first two rows, so to speak, having stuffed your hand. The rest of the laying will certainly go faster, since its technology will already be mastered.
	It makes sense to consider in detail more complex knots in laminate flooring. Although, if you figure out how to properly equip them, there should not be any special problems with them either, since there is nothing supernaturally complicated at this stage of work. So, one of these "problem" areas is the place where the pipes for supplying heating radiators or risers in an apartment building pass. In order for the material to be laid neatly, it is necessary to determine the points at which holes will be drilled through which the pipes will pass. To do this, the board is laid next to the risers and moves up to the wall. Spacer wedges are installed between it and the wall. A line is marked on the board that will determine the distance of the pipes from the wall. It is most convenient to mark up with a construction square and a simple pencil.
	The next step, the board is installed in front of the pipes, as it will dock with the previous row (for this it is better to connect it in the castle). A line is drawn from the middle of each of the pipes to the intersection with the previously marked one. The points of their intersection will be the centers of the circles that will need to be drilled with an electric drill, with a crown drill installed on it.
	Now, using a jigsaw, from the board you need to saw off part of it along the first line drawn, which passes through the middle of the circles. This part of the board will be laid behind the pipes, between them and the wall.
	Further, carpentry glue is applied along the cut ends of this small segment, since at these points the fragment will be glued to the main board. The fragment of the board itself is laid behind the pipes, and the main board is pressed against it from the outside of the pipes.
	After installing the board, gaps should remain around the pipes, and if they are not closed, they will become a place where dust will collect. Therefore, they need to be masked with special donut rings, which are divided into two semicircles, installed on both sides of the pipe and snapped together. Thanks to these elements, this area will look neat and aesthetically pleasing.
	Another area that requires special attention is the doorway and the protruding elements of its frame. In order for this area to look neat, and the sawn edge of the laminate would not have to be covered with small pieces of plinth, the board must be slipped under the frame of the door frame. To do this, a cutout is made in the lower part of the frame, into which the edge of the board will be hidden. This groove is cut with a conventional hand hacksaw.
	Since the saw in the frame will have a small height, designed only for the thickness of the laminate, the board will not be able to be raised at the right angle in order to fasten it with locks on both sides with the laid coating. In this regard, on the board next to the one installed under the frame of the door frame, using a chisel, the protruding part of the lock is cut off, and the fastening of these two elements of the floor covering is carried out using wood glue.
	After laying the laminate on almost the entire surface of the floor, it's time to install the last row. As a rule, it requires a board of a smaller width. To accurately measure the required size, you should put the board on its future installation site, wrong side up, while not forgetting to install spacer wedges along the wall. Further, along the edge of the already laid row, marking is made and a line is drawn along which the cut will be made.
	Thus, the cut side, on which the groove was located, will be against the wall, and the studded edge will dock with the already laid board. In this case, as in other cases, first the entire row is assembled from the boards, then it rises at an angle of 15 degrees, slides into the groove, and then fits on the base. After that, you can be glad that the laying of the laminate flooring was successful!
	After the installation of the laminated coating is completed, the brackets for fixing the baseboard are marked and fixed on the walls. The brackets are fixed in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm using self-tapping dowels, depending on what material the walls of the building are built from.
	The plinth is installed and snapped onto the fixed brackets. This is just an example, since there are a lot of options for fixing skirting boards, as well as their designs. But to figure it out on your own is not difficult at all. But at the same time, the key rule is always observed - under no circumstances should the skirting board be attached to the floor!
	To join the plinth at the corners, it is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, using a miter box for cutting accuracy. You can use special corners for docking - they are offered in a sufficient assortment in the same department of the hardware store where the plinth itself is sold.
	Another important nuance must be taken into account when laying a laminate in a large area, with dimensions exceeding 6 × 8 meters. This is the division of the area of ​​​​the room into separate zones with the help of special docking elements. They are necessary to create the so-called thermal gap, which will protect the coating from deformation during heating and expansion of the material.

After the laminate flooring is fully installed, you should not rush to immediately start the water "warm floor" system. Firstly, it is advisable to give the laid laminate flooring at least a couple of days to simply lie down in a new state for it. But the main thing is not even that. Starting the system (by the way, both the first and subsequent ones, for example, at the beginning of the heating season) is always carried out in steps. Start with low temperatures. And gradually, no more than 5 degrees a day, they raise the level of heating, bringing it to the calculated value. It should be emphasized that the decommissioning of the system before the end of the heating season is also carried out not abruptly, not simply by “turning off the tap”. A high-quality laminate is not afraid of elevated temperatures within an acceptable range, but it is still unreasonable to plunge it into sharp temperature changes. This will reduce the duration of the coating, may lead to the appearance of squeaks, or even worse - to break the lock connections.

Above in the text it was said that there is also a “dry” method of laying a water-heated floor, followed by laminate flooring. We will not describe it textually - we will invite the reader to watch the attached video on this topic:

Video: Underfloor heating without screed, followed by laying laminate

Installation and installation of underfloor heating systems requires special skills, knowledge of the technology of work and care. This applies not only to the process of installing heating elements, but also affects the choice of facing material that will be laid after the completion of installation activities.

If everything is quite simple with the choice of ceramic tiles, then before choosing a laminate for a warm floor, you should familiarize yourself with the possibility of laying and operating it in such conditions.

Cladding selection criteria

Installation of water or electric heating systems for the further laying of conventional laminate can result in a lot of problems associated with constant heating of the material to 25-27 ° C.

When laminate sheets are heated to temperatures above 25 ° C, harmful formaldehydes are released, which are used in the composition of resins and binders involved in the manufacture.

The use of conventional laminate up to 25 °C absolutely does not cause any harm to human health and others, which is confirmed by a number of studies. A specialized laminate for underfloor heating is free from this drawback due to the use of a special manufacturing technology based on reducing the amount of harmful binders.

Markings indicating the possibility of using the cladding in conjunction with heating systems

The accessory and the possibility of installing the laminate on top is indicated on the packaging and in the installation instructions that come with the material. For most manufacturers, this is evidenced by a special marking in the form of a stylized icon indicating a warm floor, spirally arranged heating elements or an accompanying comment like “Underfloor Heating”.

From a technical point of view, underfloor heating laminate must have a certain thermal conductivity. According to European standards, the thermal conductivity index for the finishing cladding laid above the heating system should be no more than 0.15 m² * K / W.

The value of 0.15 m²*K/W includes the resistance of the laminate used and the substrate used to install it. For example, a coating was purchased with a coefficient of 0.078 m² * K / W and a substrate with a coefficient of 0.066 m² * K / W. In total, this gives 0.144 m² * K / W, which is quite in line with the requirements.

The choice of materials with appropriate thermal conductivity indicators should be approached with all seriousness, since the further operation of the coating depends on this. If the stated norms are exceeded, there is a risk of overheating of the underfloor heating system and damage to the floor cladding.

Coverage class and room type

Stylized icons indicating the presence of certain properties and qualities of cladding

The class of the laminate directly affects its quality - the ability to withstand mechanical stress, abrasion resistance, durability, etc.

When used in conjunction with additional heating systems, the material is constantly subjected to thermal expansion, which affects its service life not for the better. Based on this, almost all specialized coatings with a resolution marker have 32 and 33 product classes.

Much more important is the choice of coverage appropriate to the type of room. That is, it is completely irrational to use especially durable types of material in places where the floor heating time over 25 ° C rarely exceeds 2-3 hours per week, and the degree of traffic intensity is minimal.

So, when laying a laminate for a warm water and electric floor in various rooms, you can consider the following points:

• the kitchen is a place with high traffic and traffic. With a high probability of liquid and debris on the floor. A place where several people and a couple of pets can be at the same time. It is recommended to lay water systems with cladding of strength class 33 and water-repellent properties;
• bathrooms - rooms with average traffic and average traffic intensity. Permanent exposure to moisture and abrasive particles is possible. It is desirable to install water-heated floors with a class 32 coating with water-repellent qualities;
• living room - a place of frequent or permanent stay of one or two people. Possible debris and abrasive particles. It is possible to lay both water and electric heating structures. It is desirable to lay a class 32 laminate with fire protection, antistatic and sound-absorbing qualities;
• nursery - a room where laying of safe material is required. It is desirable to use materials of class 32 with a matte surface and the presence of anti-slip and antistatic qualities, fire protection and a protective water-repellent layer.

When arranging the floor in pantries or other technical rooms, simpler coatings of class 31-32 can be used. If necessary, a lower quality laminate can be laid, but the life of such a coating is very short.

Adhesive or locking type of connection of lamellas

Comparison of click and lock type connections

The type of connection of laminate lamellas can be as follows:

1. Adhesive - performed according to the standard "thorn-groove" scheme with the obligatory processing of the "thorn" with an adhesive composition. For laying use improvised means in the form of a hammer or mallet. During dismantling, the lamella may break or the fasteners may be broken.
2. Castle - does not require the use of binders and adhesives. Represents a locking system, when on one side there is a recess of a certain shape, into which a “spike” of a suitable design is placed.

For laying over a warm floor, it is allowed to use a coating only with a lock type of connection, since the adhesive composition heats up and fixes the facing lamellas quite strongly.

The lock connection, in turn, is divided into several varieties, but the most popular are. The first is the snap lock, which provides a more secure connection, even when mounted on a relatively uneven base.

The second is a more familiar fixation by means of a lock similar to a standard “thorn groove”. This type is very demanding on the quality of the base, since even with minor height differences, there is a risk of a break at the point where the lamellas are paired.

The use of material with the “Click” system is more preferable due to its resistance to possible swelling, thermal expansion, etc.

Criteria for choosing a suitable substrate

The selection of the substrate is carried out taking into account the floor covering used and its coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Floor underlays based on polyethylene foam, expanded polystyrene and natural cork

It is important to take this indicator into account, since the use of non-specialized substrates of various thicknesses can lead to overheating of the heating system and uncontrolled power consumption.

The specialized underlay is made from extruded polystyrene or expanded polyethylene foam. Standard thickness - 1.5-3 mm, thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.04-0.08 m² * K / W.

For example, Arbiton's IZO-FLOOR THERMO substrate is made of extruded polystyrene, has a thickness of 1.6 mm and a resistance of not more than 0.06 m²*K/W. The Quick-Step Uniclic Plus brand underlay is made of polyethylene foam, has a thickness of 2.1 mm and a thermal conductivity of 0.059 m²*K/W.

In practice, the polyethylene substrate lends itself well to cutting, easy to fit and join. The polystyrene coating is distinguished by high heat and waterproofing properties, which allows it to be laid together with a water-heated floor.

In addition to the materials listed above, a natural cork underlay can be used for installing underfloor heating laminate. This material meets all the requirements - thermal conductivity of 0.042 m² * K / W at a thickness of 2 mm.

The use of wood cladding for laying over a warm water floor puts a number of restrictions on the coating used. In many ways, this is due to increased humidity and the possibility of direct contact with moisture.

Underfloor heating laminate - material selection criteria for the water and electrical system

When choosing a laminate floor with water heating, the following nuances should be considered:

• marking - the presence of a specialized stylized badge or the “H20” marking, indicating the possibility of use in conjunction with water heating systems. These coatings have a high density and have water-repellent properties;
• class - it is preferable to use class 32-33 with a lock type of connection. “Click” type of connection, since in the case of the use of “Lock” locks and swelling of the laminate, its fixing elements may be damaged;
• safety - only safe coatings with the marking “E1” or “E0” can be used, showing the amount of formaldehyde substances included in the composition.

The purchase of laminate flooring for underfloor heating is carried out in a similar way. First of all, the presence of a special permissive marking, compliance with the class and the presence of a coating that prevents fire is checked.

Otherwise, the choice of material, both for water and electric heating systems, is carried out taking into account the type of room and the requirements for lining.

Today, the "warm floor" system has ceased to be a luxury for the elite. It is so popular that it is sometimes used as the main source of space heating. At the same time, many people think: is it possible to lay a laminate on a water floor? Will this damage the flooring? The question, as they say, is not idle, because the laminated coating is quite sensitive to changes in the microclimate in the room.

According to experts, the arrangement of a “warm floor” under floor coverings made of parquet or massive boards is undesirable. Practice shows that wooden floors in such cases do not behave in the best way. But with laminate, the story is completely different. The use of this coating in combination with a warm floor has proven itself very well. Let's deal with all the nuances.

Material selection

Those who used this coating in the apartment know that no additional insulation saves from the fact that the laminate remains cool at any time of the year. Alas, this is not wood, but its surface is just a high-strength organic resin that prevents boards from abrasion. This resin remains cool both in the summer heat and in the winter cold. And if you equip a warm floor under the lamellas, it will be pleasant to walk on it even barefoot.

Important! Not all laminate brands are compatible with insulated floors. Cheap varieties of this coating will behave in the same way as a tree - they simply deform.

Before answering the question of whether it is possible to make a warm floor under a laminate, you need to choose the right material. Here are the criteria for choosing flooring:

• The presence of a special marking indicating the compatibility of the lamellas with underfloor heating.
• Thickness of boards from 8 mm. Lamellas of smaller thickness are deformed by temperature differences.

How to choose the right underfloor heating system?

There are 3 types of systems used for underfloor heating:

• Water.
• Electrical.
• Infrared film.

Each of these systems has its own advantages and disadvantages. All of them are about equally popular. Let's consider them in more detail.

Water

This is a system of hidden pipes of small cross section, which are connected to the central heating system. Can laminate flooring be installed on underfloor heating? In principle, the water floor insulation system and laminate flooring are compatible, but only in private homes. In apartment buildings, such systems are prohibited.

This method of underfloor heating has many disadvantages:

• The complexity and high cost of installation, repair and maintenance.
• When a leak occurs in the pipes, it is necessary to change not only the entire pipeline, but also the floor covering. Hot water will make it unusable.
• Difficulty in temperature control, and laminate does not tolerate high temperatures very well.

Cable (electric)

This is the most common option, but, unfortunately, it is not suitable for coatings with low thermal conductivity, including laminate. The reason is that before installing the finishing coating, the cable is poured with a screed. Before heating the laminate, the cable must first warm up the screed itself. The efficiency of such a system, of course, is small.

Important! The matter is further complicated by the fact that a substrate made of a material with low thermal conductivity is laid between the lamellas and the screed. Thus, the floor will heat up slowly with significant energy consumption.

Film

The principle of operation of such a system is based on the phenomenon of infrared radiation. The name "film" system received from the thinnest film with embedded conductor strips.

The advantages of film floors include:

• No need for glue and screed.
• Profitability.
• Efficient for floors made of materials with low thermal conductivity, including laminate.
• Environmental Safety.

Important! Heating the laminate to a temperature exceeding 30 degrees is unacceptable, as the material may deform. In addition, heating to high temperatures can provoke the release of formaldehyde.

Conclusion

Thus, the film infrared system is the best option.

Important! Some Western companies produce laminate with a built-in heating system, but it is very expensive.

How to lay a warm floor under a laminate - installation procedure

It's not difficult at all. It is enough to have knowledge of electrical engineering and the desire to make something with your own hands. Underfloor heating film type sold as a set:

• Film.
• Contact clamps with insulation.
• Wiring.

In addition, for arranging a film underfloor heating you will need:

• A heat reflector on a soft base, which will also serve as a substrate for the laminate. Do not use materials with aluminum foil.
• Polyethylene (protects the thermal film from moisture).
• Scotch.
• Thermostat with temperature sensor to regulate the heating temperature.

How to put a warm floor under a laminate?

1. Prepare the surface first.
2. Lay the heat reflector, fastening the joints together with adhesive tape.
3. Cut the thermal film into strips, lay over the heat reflector and secure with tape.
4. Mount the thermostat.
5. Connect the strips of thermal film in parallel using the wires provided.
6. Using bituminous insulation, fix the sensor on the back of the thermal film.
7. Connect the thermostat to the network and test how the system works.
8. Spread a protective film of polyethylene over the mounted system.

The technology for installing water-heated floors appeared relatively recently, but has already won the hearts of many residents of private houses and apartments. Among all the varieties of underfloor heating, water occupies not the last place in terms of operating efficiency. This is the reason for its popularity. The question is what kind of finishing flooring can be used and how to properly fit the laminate on the warm floor from water heating, because this material is controversial and even capricious when it comes to moisture and temperature changes. Therefore, it is important to purchase a laminate with the necessary set of performance characteristics so that the coating lasts for many years and does not lose its attractiveness.

Before proceeding to consider the varieties of laminate, you should understand what a warm water floor is. Water is used as a heat carrier.

The composition of the "warm water floor" system includes:

1. Pipeline.
2. Pumping and mixing module.
3. Collector.
4. Pipes (metal-plastic, cross-linked polyethylene).

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

The following positive qualities of a warm floor can be distinguished:

1. The versatility of the system in relation to the choice of finishing coating material (linoleum, tile, laminate, carpet, etc.).
2. Installation of the system does not require serious financial investments.
3. Underfloor heating can be autonomous, not dependent on power outages, or connected to an existing heating system - a boiler or central heating.
4. The result of choosing a warm floor is the rejection of regular heating devices, which saves living space and makes it more attractive.
5. The energy efficiency of a residential building is increasing - savings in thermal energy are up to 30%.

Among the shortcomings, the following can be noted:

1. It is rare that the installation of such a type of underfloor heating can be implemented in an apartment. Most often, the water system is used in private homes.
2. It is impossible to regulate the heating intensity of the coolant when it is connected to the central heating system. In stand-alone mode, heating control is limited.
3. Flooding is possible if pipeline damage is detected late.

Varieties of water heated floors by type of installation

There are two ways to install a water-heated floor: using concrete and using floor technology.

Table 1. Methods for installing a water floor

concrete technology	Floor technology
Installation of pipes with a heat carrier is carried out under a monolithic concrete screed. This technology takes a lot of time and effort, is associated with "dirty, wet" work. The main disadvantage is that the laying of the top coat is possible only after the screed has completely dried, which is up to 28 days.	Thanks to the use of ready-made materials, the installation of such a floor takes place in a short time, it is not associated with the formation of pollution and does not require waiting a long time before installing the final coating. The disadvantage is the cost, which is higher than when working with a concrete screed. This technology can be rack, modular and polystyrene.

Where is it advisable to lay a water heated floor

A warm water floor is more often used in private houses than in apartments. This is due to the fact that the current legislation of our country prohibits residents from unauthorized changes to the central heating system of an apartment building.

Changes to the heating system of an apartment, according to SNiP, can only be made on the basis of obtaining official approval from representatives of the heating network and housing and communal services, and, as practice shows, this is possible only if the project provides for the organization of autonomous heating of the apartment.

There are no obstacles to installing a floor in a private residential building, with the exception of the fact that it is problematic to properly position the pipes in small rooms.

Laminate - a brief overview of the material

To understand whether it is possible to use a laminate when installing a water-heated floor system, it is necessary to have an idea about the structure and properties of this material.

Conventionally, the structure of the laminate is divided into four layers: front protective, decorative, bearing (core) and stabilizing. Let's consider them in more detail:

Important! The main requirements that the carrier layer of the laminate must meet are moisture resistance, geometry retention under temperature extremes, high rigidity and strength.

What to look for when choosing laminate flooring

This question is quite natural and is related to the characteristics of the material.

The most common concerns are related to the possibility of deformation of the coating under the influence of temperature changes. Therefore, it is necessary to choose a laminate with a high level of resistance to moisture, mechanical and abrasion loads.

Many modern manufacturers produce material that involves its use in the "warm water floor" system. The thermal and moisture resistance of the material is indicated by special icons on the information sheet that is attached to the products.

One of the most important conditions for the use of laminate in the "warm floor" system is its environmental friendliness and safety for humans and the environment. When the temperature of the coating rises during the operation of the heating system, no harmful, toxic, substances hazardous to human health should be released from the surface of the laminate. The evaporation of the minimum amount of toxins that are not capable of harming the body is allowed. The pictograms on the information leaflet, which is attached to each product package, will help you choose the right material.

Table 2. Pictograms for laminate

Pictogram (Emission of harmful substances)	Value (class)
	In the production of products with this marking, formaldehyde was not used, therefore, the HCHO class was not assigned to them.
	Formaldehyde (HCHO), used as a binder in the manufacture of wood composite materials, is released continuously in a volume not exceeding 3.5 mg/m 2 h to 5 mg/m 2 h for 3 days after manufacture.
	Formaldehyde (HCHO) is released continuously in a volume not exceeding 3.5 - 8 mg/m 2 h or 5 - 12 mg/m 2 h within 3 days after production.
	Absence of pentachlorophenol (PVC antiseptic) in the composition of products.

Important! Manufacturers producing floor coverings for the "warm floor" system indicate the temperature value for which the laminate is designed. Usually it is from 27 to 29 degrees. This is the optimal value at which the coating, under conditions of correct operation, will not lose its integrity and other characteristics for many years. Considering that a comfortable temperature for flooring is a value not exceeding 26-27 degrees, this parameter is quite justified.

An important criterion is the thermal resistance of the floor covering.

An important parameter that affects the efficiency of a water floor system is the thermal resistance index of the floor covering located above it. According to the established European standards, it should be no more than 0.15 m² × °K / W.

A concrete screed, which most often contains the contours of a water heating system, quite actively accumulates the resulting heat. However, it is important to provide conditions for the release of this heat into the room.

The thermal resistance value for a laminate to be used in a water floor system is on average 0.005 to 0.10 m²×°K/W. The value of this parameter is affected by the thickness and structural density of the product material. But it should be borne in mind that when laying a water floor, the total thermal resistance of all layers of the coating is taken into account - a concrete screed, into which the contour of a warm floor is embedded, a laminate and a substrate, which is necessarily used when laying it. Normally, this figure should not exceed 0.15 m² × ° K / W.

Important! When using a floor covering whose total value exceeds the allowable value of 0.15 m² × °K / W, the lower layers of the laminate flooring overheat, as a result of which formaldehyde begins to be actively released and there is a risk of surface deformation. As a result, the base of the floor will warm up, and not the room.

Connection type

The strength of a laminate flooring largely depends on the type of interlock chosen.

Table 3. Interlock type

LOCK	CLICK
Such locks are connected in a glueless way. Attaching the panels with their end sides to each other, they are nailed with a hammer. The peculiarities of such a connection are that the base under the flooring must be perfectly even, the process of laying such a laminate is more laborious, while the quality of adhesion of the panels to each other is lower than with a “Click” type lock.	These are collapsible or double locks. In the process of fastening, the panel is brought to the panel lying on the floor at an angle of 40-45 degrees, inserting the spike into the groove. Slightly shaking the bar, snap the lock. In this case, the panels are tightly fixed to each other. The advantages of this type of connection are to minimize the possibility of damage to products during their connection, in the strength of the coating and its long service life.

Both types of locks are subject to reassembly / disassembly, but as practice shows, the lock of the “Lock” type can be damaged in the process.

Laminate with "Click" lock can lie on the surface with a difference of up to 3 mm per 1 linear meter. Laminate with a "Lock" lock is more demanding on the evenness of the base.

Important! Often, adhesive compositions are used to more firmly connect the lamellas to each other, but in the case of installing a floor covering on a water-heated floor system, it is better to refuse to use glue, since the glue will disperse during the heating process and the floor covering will deform.

According to experts, when installing a floor with a water coolant, a floor covering made of laminate with a “Click” type lock is better suited because of their reliability and resistance to deformation during temperature changes.

Prices for laminate "Tarkett"

tarkett laminate

The choice of laminate class depending on the room

One of the most important parameters that is taken into account when choosing a laminate is its belonging to a particular abrasion class. More reliable and durable coatings for a warm water floor system are those made from class 32 laminate. When choosing the type of coating, the level of load characteristic of the room in which it will be laid is taken into account.

Table 3. Household laminate

Class	Impact level
	Loads of light and moderate intensity.	Low traffic - bedroom, office, balcony, pantry.
	Loads of general and medium intensity.	Average traffic - kitchen, living room, nursery, hall.
		Average traffic - kitchen, living room, nursery, hall, dining room, corridor.
		High traffic - kitchen, hallway.

Table 4. Commercial laminate

Class	Impact level	In what rooms is it used
	Loads of moderate intensity.	Low traffic - hotel room, bedroom, conference room, small office, home office, recreation room.
	Loads of general intensity.	Average traffic - classroom, hotel, small office, reception, boutique.
	High intensity loads.	High traffic - shops, restaurants, cafes, bars, gyms, receptions, medical institutions.
	High intensity loads.	Increased traffic - multifunctional hall, waiting room.

Initially, the division of laminate into classes of household and commercial type occurred in connection with the level of formaldehyde emission, therefore household laminate was intended for residential premises, and commercial laminate for public with short stays. Moreover, the latter type of laminate has a more serious resistance to abrasion loads. Modern manufacturers offer a class 32 laminate without formaldehyde or with a permissible amount within E0 - E1, which allows it to be used in residential areas. It is this material that is most often used in the repair of apartments and private houses. In light of the installation of a water-heated floor system, class 32 laminate can be used if it is appropriately labeled and the emission class is not higher than E1.

Kitchen

This is a specific room in the house, subject to special loads in the form of temperature changes, high humidity, various kinds of pollution and possible mechanical impacts on the coating when sharp or heavy objects fall. In addition, all family members and, sometimes, guests are often present in the kitchen at the same time. The coating is under pressure from the furniture of the dining group.

In this regard, the laminate in the kitchen must be durable, resistant to mechanical, abrasion and moisture, as its surface requires frequent and thorough maintenance. The class of a suitable laminate is 32, 33 with the appropriate thermal conductivity and marking, which allows it to be used in a water-heated floor system.

Hallway

The hallway is a passage area, it is she who connects the living quarters with the street, from where all kinds of pollution and moisture get into its territory. In addition, the coating in the hallway must withstand the impact of dirty, wet shoes and sharp heels. The need for high moisture resistance of such a coating is obvious - in bad weather, the floor in the hallway is washed several times a day. For this room, a laminate of 32, 33 classes is recommended.

Living room

The living room is a general purpose room in which all family members gather. But since the floor surface is not exposed to moisture and street shoes, a class 22 laminate can be used.

Bedroom

In the bedroom, traffic is minimal. The laminate in this room must have soundproofing, antistatic properties, a minimum concentration or absence of formaldehyde emission in the composition. You can use laminate class 21, 22. Attention should be paid to the quality of the front layer and the presence of comfortable tactile sensations, because in the bedroom most often they walk barefoot on the floor.

Bathroom and balcony

These two rooms, like no other, need a comfortable, warm floor covering and the installation of a water heating system becomes a real way out of the situation. But it is important to remember that when using laminate in the underfloor heating system in these rooms, it should not be allowed to overheat. Sealant is used to process joints. Another important quality that laminate flooring in the bathroom, as well as in the kitchen, should have is an anti-slip surface. Laminate class, both for a combined bathroom and for separate baths and toilets, 32 classes are chosen.

You may need information on how to properly fit laminate flooring between rooms. You can find step by step instructions in

Average cost of underfloor heating laminate

Table 5. The average cost of a laminate for a warm water floor as of April 2018

Illustration	Class	Name	Average cost of 1m 2 (as of April 2018), rubles
	33	Paul Mayer Family PM-12 Baltic Oak	670
	32	Quick Step Eligna U-3459 Warm Gray Oak	780
	32	Quick Step U3458 Natural Warm Oak	920
	33	Epi Alsafloor Osmoze O140 Congo Oak	990
	34	Westerhof Maestro Super Step A24010 Herentals Oak	980

Choosing a substrate

Another important parameter that affects the quality of laminate flooring over underfloor heating is choosing the right underlay. Its purpose is to even out small differences in the base, as a result of the formation of a new screed, on which the laminate will be laid. In addition, the underlayment improves the soundproofing characteristics of the flooring and is an additional thermal insulation.

The substrate, laid on top of the concrete screed, prevents friction between the laminate and the concrete base, eliminating the appearance of extraneous, unpleasant sounds. An important criterion is its ability to maintain the thermal conductivity of the floor covering at the required level without reducing it, so the small thickness of the selected material plays a significant role - from 1.5 to 2 mm.

Now, in light of the popularity of caring for one's health and attention to the environmental situation in the apartment, coniferous underlayment for laminate flooring is especially popular. We will talk about it in detail in

Construction stores are ready to offer this material in a large assortment. Some laminate manufacturers offer a certain suitable type of underlay for their products.

Some manufacturers offer coatings with perforations (small holes), which significantly reduce the thermal resistance of the material, while maintaining its elasticity.

The thermal conductivity of the substrate should be as high as possible, then it will better pass heat without delay. This material must have the following qualities:

1. Resistance to the "working" temperature of the "warm floor" system.
2. Environmental friendliness and the absence of toxins that could be released during heating.
3. Vapor permeability.

Most often, in the conditions of installation of a water-heated floor system, cork or foamed polyethylene material is used as a substrate.

Table 6. Substrate options

Choosing pipes for a warm water floor system

The quality of the heating system is determined by the elements used in it with the appropriate characteristics. By choosing the right pipe material when installing a water floor, you can ensure the necessary level of comfort and forget about expensive system maintenance.

Installing an underfloor heating system is not the case when you can save money by using the remnants and pipe cuts fastened together. Only new, high-quality materials can reduce the cost of installation and subsequent operation of the floor.

To choose the right pipes, consider the following:

1. Make sure that the purchased material has the appropriate purpose.
2. The pipe should have as few joints as possible - this will minimize the possibility of leakage.
3. What matters is the material of manufacture of the pipe and its diameter.
4. It is advisable to purchase products from time-tested and reputable manufacturers. Such material may cost more, but it guarantees the quality and durability of the system.
5. It is worth paying attention to the quality of related fasteners and other products that are involved in creating a floor heating system.

The heating circuit is subject to specific requirements associated with the special conditions of its operation. It is important to choose the right pipes according to geometric parameters and material of manufacture.

Geometrical parameters of pipes

The diameter of the pipes for installing a warm water floor system is 20 or 16 mm. Sometimes the transverse dimension reaches 25 mm. When choosing the geometrical parameter of the pipe, it is necessary to take into account the total length of the system. Transportation of the coolant along the circuit may be impaired due to the limited capabilities of the circulation pump, when the total length of the floor exceeds the recommended value and a "locked loop" effect is formed.

The maximum length of the contour for a pipe with a diameter of 16 mm is 70 meters, for a pipe with a diameter of 20 - 90 meters, 25 mm - 120 m.

Pipe material

Filling the circuit with liquid concrete and using a coolant that can cause corrosion of the inside of the pipes significantly narrows the range of materials recommended for use in a water-heated floor system. The most suitable in such conditions are: polypropylene, copper, stainless steel, cross-linked polyethylene and metal-plastic.

Table 7. The most popular material for pipes

Installation of a water-heated floor with subsequent laying of a laminate

There are several ways to install a water heated floor. Let's consider some of them.

Table 8. Floor installation with thermal insulation boards (before pouring concrete screed)

Image	Description
	Before installing the manifold cabinet, it is necessary to mark the wall using a laser level.
	Dig out a niche of the required depth
	Install the cabinet
	Expanded polystyrene plates are laid on the floor, the plastic top coating of which acts as a guide for fixing the pipe
	A damper tape is laid along the walls of the room
	Then, a XLPE pipe is laid in increments of 15 cm.
	At the next stage, the distribution manifold is installed, to which the underfloor heating pipes will be connected.
	The collector is connected using a line laid from the boiler room
	In the boiler room, the line is connected to the pump-mixing module
	To automatically maintain the set temperature in the pipe, it is necessary to connect a temperature sensor
	When the installation of pipes is completed, they are filled with water and air is removed
	In order for all circuits to warm up evenly, it is necessary to adjust the flow

Table 9. Installation on insulation (before pouring concrete screed)

Illustration	Description
	First, a heater is laid on the floor
	The insulation is fixed to the floor slab using building fasteners (mushrooms)
	A metal mesh is fixed on the insulation
	Along the perimeter of the room, to compensate for the expansion of the concrete screed, a damper tape made of foamed polyethylene 10 mm thick is installed. Its height must exceed the height of the screed
	You can quickly fix the material to the wall using a construction stapler
	Next, they begin to lay out pipes for underfloor heating. To make it easier to roll out a 500-meter bay from the inside, it is wrapped with a film on the outside
	The pipes are fixed at a distance between each other of 15 cm to the previously laid metal mesh
	This method of distributing pipes for a water-heated floor is called "Snail", it provides uniform heating of the floor
	When pouring concrete screed and for a day after, the pipes must be pressurized with cold water for effective troubleshooting. It will be possible to use the warm floor for its intended purpose no earlier than after 28 days, when the screed is completely dry

Table 10. Pouring concrete screed

Illustration	Description
	To create a smooth floor screed, you will need to use conventional metal beacons 10 mm high. It is important that the height of the screed above the top point of the pipe surface is at least 30 mm, so that the floor warms up evenly Under the beacons every 50 cm, you can put concrete paving slabs on the cement-sand mortar - its flat surface will make it easy to align the beacons in height
	A metal beacon is laid on top of the tile and fixed with a self-tapping screw.
	In order for the beacons to be installed perfectly in a horizontal plane, the work is controlled using the building level
	Expose the second and third row of lighthouses
	A day later, when the mortar under the lighthouses sets, it will be possible to pour a concrete screed

Table 11

Illustration	Description
	A damper tape is fixed around the perimeter of the room. Its soft layer compensates for the thermal expansion of the upper layers of the floor structure.
	Then double-density thermal insulation boards are laid, made of two layers of foam - very dense on top and soft on the bottom.
	Thermal insulation plates are overlapped with each other using the technology of hermetic joining of edges High mechanical strength of thermal insulation plates allows you to walk on them when installing the heating system
	Laid over the entire area, the plates form a continuous layer of thermal insulation
	The core element of the lightweight water floor structure is the heat distribution plates Large plates are 1200 mm long and 190 mm wide The small plates are 1 meter long and 120 mm wide
	The plates have notches that allow them to be divided by hand into parts of shorter length without the use of tools.
	Heat distribution plates are securely fixed on the surface of the thermal insulation boards
	The inner contour is laid in increments of 200, occupying 90% of the entire floor area Laying method - "Snake"
	Small plates are laid on the supply from the collector along the perimeter of the outer walls of the room
	Plastic pipes with a diameter of 16 mm are rolled out and inserted into the grooves of the heat distribution plates. The laying of the pipes starts from the supply manifold. The hottest pipe is led from it first along the perimeter along the outer walls of the room, using small plates and a laying step of 150
	Inside the room, pipes are laid in a “snake” using large plates and a laying step of 200
	The pipe lays flat, as the top layer of thermal insulation plates and high-quality steel plate lock hold it well in the floor plane
	Then lay the waterproofing film
	Gypsum fiber sheets are laid on top, forming a base for the finishing layer

The process of laying laminate on top of a water-heated floor system is fundamentally no different from laying on another base, except perhaps with the right choice of the laminate itself and the substrate. Myself we will omit, but give some useful tips.

What tools are needed when laying laminate flooring? Let's talk about it

Table 12. Helpful Hints for Installing Laminate

Illustration	Description
	Significantly facilitate and speed up the process of laying the laminate will allow modern products with a plastic latch on the lock.
	To securely fix the laminate, use a rubber mallet and a piece of another board. It is undesirable to knock directly on the lock of the laminate with a hammer.
	It is necessary to leave a 10 mm expansion joint along the perimeter of the room between the wall and the laminate, as the laminate is subject to seasonal expansion.
	It is important to take into account the pattern on the surface of the laminate and lay it parallel to the light. It is also worth considering that in the purchased batch of laminate, the pattern on individual boards may be repeated.
	The base on which the laminate is laid must be perfectly level.

Faults and their elimination

The design of a water heated floor is simple in structure, so there are not so many reasons for the appearance of malfunctions. Consider the most typical and ways to eliminate them:

1. If the circulation pump does not make a characteristic noise when the power is turned on, then it is recommended to check the switchboard on each circuit - the shut-off valves are characterized by an open position.
2. “Airing” of the system can occur with a sharp drop in pressure inside the heating circuit, its overheating, leakage and depressurization of connections, and improper installation of the system. You can solve the problem by closing all the kennels, leaving one, and then driving each branch separately with the circulation pump turned on at low speeds.
3. In order to adjust the system, it is important to understand the principle of operation of the collector, which directs the waste and warm liquid. To adjust the operation of the circuits, use the balancing table. The valve is closed after removing the cap from it. According to the table, the revolutions are determined for each circuit by turning the valve the required number of times.
4. The reason for the low temperature of the system may be the insufficient power of the boiler, which needs cleaning, prevention or replacement of the temperature sensor.
5. Reduced heat transfer occurs if the floor is filled with furniture and covered with carpet, and also because of poor-quality, unsuitable insulating material.
6. The cause of uneven heating can be not only air, but also illiterately organized vapor barrier

Finally, we suggest you watch a video on how to put a laminate on warm water floors.

Video - Self-laying laminate on a warm water floor

In recent years, heating systems such as "warm floor" are increasingly being created in houses and apartments. They provide comfortable living conditions, but require careful selection of facing materials. Many people think that laminate flooring cannot be used to finish the warm floor, but this is an erroneous opinion. Today we will talk about how to choose the right laminate flooring for your home so that they last as long as possible.

Laminate flooring for underfloor heating - myths and reality

Let's start with the fact that there are several types of underfloor heating, namely:

• electrical;
• film;
• water.

• water.

Subject to all installation rules, each of the listed types allows the subsequent laying of a laminated coating. The film underfloor heating is perfect for covering with laminate, it is thin enough, evenly heats the facing materials laid on top and allows you to accurately control the heating temperature. In this case, a laminate for a warm floor can be laid without using a screed; it will be enough to place a thin substrate under it.

Laminate coatings can also be laid on top of a water-heated floor, but between them a screed is required, the thickness of which should be from 30 to 60 mm. A thick screed warms up more slowly and complicates the task of adjusting the temperature in the room, while a thin screed can quickly overheat, causing damage to the laminate. Therefore, you need to stick to the golden mean.

If the water heating system is planned to be connected to the central heating network, it is better not to lay the laminate on top of it.

With electric heating elements, the laminated coverings are also laid on the screed. But in this case, it should be thin - no more than 30 mm, otherwise you will have to pay a lot for heating. The screed to be installed should be as dense as possible (without voids) and even. To create it, special mixtures or plasticizing additives can be used. A high-quality screed warms up more slowly, however, it acts as an accumulator of thermal energy, therefore, in the future, it will positively affect the overall cost of electricity.

However, many still believe that laminate flooring is not suitable for lining bases in rooms equipped with a floor heating system. This is due to the fact that laminated coatings do not tolerate high temperatures and high humidity very well. From water, the wood that is part of the flooring can swell and deform. And due to the thermal expansion of the laminated board, the lock joints can be damaged. In addition, when the laminate is exposed to temperatures above 30°C, formaldehyde resins can be released from the panels, acting as a binder that connects the layers of the panels.

Despite all this, laminate can still be used as flooring. Firstly, you don’t have to worry about too strong influence of moisture, since even in a water heating system, the coolant will circulate in sealed pipes and will not get on the wood. Secondly, network elements are usually heated to a temperature in the range of 27–28 ° C, which means that thermal exposure will not be sufficient to release formaldehyde resins.

But it should be noted that not all laminate panels are suitable for laying on a warm floor. Cheap coatings most often cannot withstand the resulting temperature fluctuations and quickly become unusable. Therefore, it is necessary to use high-quality and resistant coatings for cladding, which will not lose their visual and operational characteristics due to rather difficult external conditions.

The choice of facing materials - what characteristics to pay attention to?

There are many characteristics of the cladding that must be taken into account, since the ability of finishing materials to withstand external influences will depend on them.

First of all, you should pay attention to the content in the lining of a harmful substance - formaldehyde. The safest panels are materials of class E1 and E0. Formaldehyde is practically absent in E0 materials, but their cost is significantly higher than other classes. There are a few more harmful substances in E1, however, such a laminate is quite safe and can be used to decorate floor surfaces in rooms for various purposes.

Since the popularity of floor heating systems has grown dramatically in recent years, manufacturers of facing materials have begun to designate coatings that can be laid on a warm floor with special markings:

• H 2 O;
• Warm Wasser;
• underfloor heating.

Laminate panels must be of sufficient thickness. It is best to use boards with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm to cover the heated floor. Thinner products do not tolerate constant temperature changes, while thicker products have low thermal conductivity. In addition, some manufacturers can mask the poor quality of their panels by increasing their thickness.

The greatest negative impact of temperature change, as already mentioned, has on the locks of laminate panels. Therefore, it is better to refuse a laminate with a lock connection, or choose boards with reinforced locks.

It is desirable that the floor covering has good thermal resistance. It is better to choose materials with characteristics from 0.05 to 0.1 m² * K / W. The underlying substrate also has a resistance of 0.04-0.06 m² * K / W, as a result of which the total floor resistance will not exceed the recommended 0.15 m² * K / W.

Choosing a substrate for laying laminate flooring

When installing a warm floor in a dry way, it is laid on a flat base made of plywood, chipboard or other materials. However, the stronger the base, the more noise it will produce when moving on the surface. To reduce the load and increase the sound insulation of the coating, a special substrate is laid under the laminate. Among other things, it will also protect the flooring from moisture.

There are several types of substrates used in cladding:

1. 1. Polyethylene foam. This material has good heat and moisture insulating characteristics, as well as low cost. However, it is short-lived, can sag over time, and also accumulates a static charge.
2. 2. Styrofoam. It acts as an effective sound insulator and has a high resistance to heat. Differs in durability, but can emit harmful substances due to exposure to elevated temperatures.
3. 3. Cork. Underlay made of natural material with high elasticity, which does not disappear with time. Great for further laying laminate, but it is characterized by a rather high cost.
4. 4. Bituminous cork. It is made from kraft paper coated with a layer of bitumen and crushed cork. Differs in high cost and excellent operational characteristics.
5. 5. Foil. It acts as an excellent heat insulator and reflects infrared rays. Due to its high moisture resistance, it eliminates the likelihood of fungus and mold.

In addition to traditional substrates, one can also distinguish products made from coniferous tiles - isoplat. They have a fibrous structure and a considerable thickness (within 5 mm). Rarely used due to high cost. In addition, combined substrates are also on the market, which are several layers of polyethylene, between which expanded polystyrene granules are placed.

General recommendations before installing facing materials

Even if you purchase the highest quality laminate flooring, it will need to be properly installed to protect it from heat damage. In the case of installation of the cladding over the screed, installation can only be carried out after it has completely dried and cured. If the screed is made of concrete mortar, then you will have to wait at least 4 weeks.

Before facing work, the floor must be dried and warmed up over its entire thickness. To do this, turn on the heating system 2 weeks before laying and add a few degrees every day, bringing it to 50% of the design power, and in the next 2 days to full power. After that, the system must be turned off, wait for the floor to cool down to a temperature of at least 15 degrees.

The same stepwise heating commissioning system will need to be repeated after completion of the installation work. At the end of the heating period, it is also necessary to turn off the system in stages - you will have to perform all the steps described above in reverse order.

The optimum floor temperature in living quarters is 22–25°C. Depending on the capacity of the system, to achieve this temperature, it may be necessary to set the temperature of the coolant at different levels - usually around 40 ° C. But in each individual case, it is necessary to select the operating temperature independently experimentally. Too strong heating of facing materials should not be allowed, as they may lose their presentation.

Between the screed and the substrate, be sure to lay a layer of polyethylene film with a thickness of about 0.2 mm. It will prevent the formation of condensation, which can harm the laminate cladding.

The durability of facing materials, especially when they are laid on a warm floor, depends on many factors, including the correct installation of the heating system itself. Work with engineering systems in residential and non-residential premises is highly complex, and owners are advised not to deal with them on their own. It is much easier to turn to specialists who can prepare a heat supply project, carry out the necessary calculations, select suitable materials for the system and correctly mount all network components.

The heating system must be able to regulate the temperature. If this is not possible, then laminate flooring will not work. At some point, the floor will definitely warm up above the temperature that laminate flooring can withstand.

Read the manufacturer's instructions before installing laminate flooring. However, one rule should be observed in any case - before starting the installation of finishing on a warm floor, it is necessary to leave the lamellas in the room for several days. This will allow the cladding to equalize in temperature with the temperature of the room, and during the laying process, the panels will no longer expand, and they can be mounted evenly and correctly.

Before laying the panels, it is necessary to establish a constant temperature regime in the room for several days. The screed must be heated to a temperature of 27–30 ° C before installation. Thanks to this, you will be able to remove residual moisture from it, which is extremely necessary, since normal installation can only be carried out at a base moisture level of no higher than 5%. After warming up a couple of days before installation, the system can be turned off.

After installation is complete, the system must be put into operation. To do this, gradually increase the temperature from 18 to 27°C, increasing it daily by 3°C. Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to make the laminated base as reliable, high-quality and durable as possible.