Ways of fastening wooden parts to concrete and brick, metal, aerated concrete and drywall. Fence from boards on metal crossbars Ways of fastening a beam to a metal pipe

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as a guard against stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a protective structure - brick, concrete and metal products, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wood, today they install a wooden fence on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

The tree is always in demand, because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

• Naturalness.
• Decorative.
• Aesthetics.
• Unique color and texture.
• Low cost in comparison with fences made of other materials.
• Excellent compatibility with the architectural style of any building.
• Ease of erection.
• Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood has its drawbacks, namely, relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic products for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of supporting metal products include:

• Ease of installation work.
• Reliability and durability of a design.
• Strength.
• Stability against static and dynamic loads.
• The ability to use any method of fixation.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if the price of the fence is used, it will increase significantly, but given that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are produced with different sections:

• square. Such products are easily mounted in sections and are distinguished by a reliable connection. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, overall dimensions of the sides - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
• Round. If a metal pipe with a circular section is used, the price of the supports will be somewhat lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a circular cross section makes it possible to select products of the desired thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
• Rectangular. From the square section, these products are distinguished only by the shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order to be able to stand for more than a dozen years, it is necessary to protect not only the main material, but also the elements of the metal fence. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be put on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help to preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Plot marking

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the fence, it is necessary to make markings. To do this, first, where it is planned to make a wooden fence on metal poles, you need to remove shrubs, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the surface of the soil. Only now is the marking done. You need to do the following:

• Drive in pegs at the extreme points of the future fence.
• Stretch a string between them.
• Mark the places where the fence supports will be installed. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal poles with your own hands, it is cheapest to hammer pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. Two people are needed to complete the work: one clogs, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not clog the pipes, but dig in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and tamp the ground well.

The following mounting options are more laborious, but also more reliable:

• concreting
• Mounting on a concrete plinth.
• Use of screw piles. For complex and this is a great solution to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

Remarkably, the rules listed below are suitable for mounting supports made of different materials:

• It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their secure fixation in the soil. After that, so that over time the pillars do not loosen, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete. Further work can be continued only after the concrete hardens.
• They begin work by installing the extreme corner piles, carefully setting them in height. Subsequent columns are installed on the same level as the previous one. In order to avoid any unwanted changes, it is possible to dig instead of the extreme posts of the rail to save the height indicator, stretch the twine between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on the desired height mark.

• How the poles should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal poles should be installed so that the supports rise above the picket fence by several centimeters.
• To prevent the wind from turning the fence on rocky, sandy and non-rocky soils, it is necessary to deepen the supports by at least half the height of the fence.
• Expanding the lower end of the post will increase its strength and durability. This extension will serve as a welded cross.
• After all the pillars are installed, small cones can be made from the concrete solution at their base to drain water.

Picket fence installation

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - runs - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the mount earlier and only then install the poles. But then you also need to make sure that all fasteners are at the same level and create a single line, only in this way it will be possible to attach runs without any problems.

Depending on what material the transverse bars are made of - wood or metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal poles using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastener, and wood products are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws. If the transverse bars are made of wood, then they are fixed to the mount with bolts, but the picket fence is fixed with ordinary nails. The main thing at the same time is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either closely or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. At the same time, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve a much longer period of time.

It remains only to make and install the gate and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated board, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal poles goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also on all elements of the structure.

Timber is a practical building material. The low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, it is not so easy to fix the beam on the foundation, because the tree cannot be glued to concrete and not welded to metal. In this article, we will talk about how the timber is attached to various foundations, what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a house made of timber

Waterproofing

The lower beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be adequately protected from water and dampness, however, it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasantly smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then less effective substances must be used, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or the iron / concrete grillage and the beam. This is a material that falls out during temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, and the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. This will protect the wall from moisture and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is best

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

• timber moisture;
• climatic conditions;
• seismic activity;
• strength of the most frequent winds.

To fasten a wet (over 16%) beam to a wooden grillage, only shrinkage compensators must be used. All other attachment methods are ineffective.

After all, a beam of high and especially natural humidity gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten a beam of high or natural moisture to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing a beam on threaded studs. Instead of a nut and washer, you must use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where heavy and long rains fall in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a lower beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective hydroprotection and install it on the most rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach should be applied in regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting a rigid mount in seismically active or windy regions will cause the mount to loosen under the influence of external factors and the house will begin to sway. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with timber of natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the flashing crown and the foundation or grillage.

Hello, I am interested in the question of mounting a wooden lining on a metal profile. Is it possible to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws? Or are there other methods of fastening (profile for GPU)?

Dmitry, Ukraine.

Hello Dmitry from Ukraine!

You must have some kind of non-standard situation if the question concerns the installation of lining on a metal profile of the GP type.

Of course, when a wooden one is mounted on wooden cranial bars, or on a mounting profile (also metal, galvanized or aluminum) in the form of rails. Which in turn are attached to the wall or ceiling.

Metal profile type GP (GP-8, GP-12, etc.) is a sheet, from the end resembling a trapezoidal contour with wide fungi and a narrow bottom, a shelf height of 8, 12, etc. millimeters. Or GP-20 D, which, on the contrary, has fungi of small width, and bottoms of large width.

Accordingly, the same GP-8 is used to protect the facade surfaces of buildings, indoors, and sometimes for the construction of fences. A GP-20 D for the roof.

If you want to attach a wooden lining to a metal profile, then it is clear that this cannot be done with nails, because, having broken through the lining, the nail will rest against the metal and not every nail is able to break through standard thickness galvanization. It will simply bend if it is galvanized finish, and not ordinary steel with a diameter of three millimeters. But such lining, with rare exceptions, is not fixed.

Theoretically, it is possible to sew a lining onto a GP profile using self-tapping screws, preferably metal self-tapping screws, in which the knurling (pitch) of the thread is finer. Such self-tapping screws will hold stronger, unlike wood screws. Self-tapping screws either black or galvanized with a press washer (which is made integral with the self-tapping screw, not separately). Roofing screws should be used with care as they can twist the lining with their self-tapping edges.

But this is a laborious method, more often a method is used when, first, a wooden plank or bar is mounted on a metal profile with several self-tapping screws, and then the lining itself is nailed directly to this bar-bar with nails. This will make your life easier, since it will not be necessary to fasten each lining with self-tapping screws directly to the metal.

/ If the lining is exposed to moisture, for example, it is a fence on the street, then self-tapping screws are much more preferable than nails, which can be pulled out when wet boards are warped. /

Two more points. Do not forget about the relative position of the lining and the metal profile. The lining should be directed perpendicular to the direction of the profile waves. Then you will clearly get fasteners to the top of the profile waves, and not where anyhow. / If you first fasten the wooden planks, which were mentioned above, then both the metal profile and the lining will be located in the same direction. /

In addition, it is always highly desirable to have a layer of film between metal and wood to waterproof one from the other. It can be glassine, moisture, thermal protective film and all films of a similar purpose.

Do not forget that the sharp ends of the screws will stick out on the other side of the metal profile. It's one thing if it doesn't affect anything. Another thing, if it is visible from the outside of the building, this disgrace will have to be closed.

And the last thing - do not forget that you need to measure your efforts when wrapping self-tapping screws. So that they are tightly and completely wrapped, and that when wrapping it is sometimes necessary to take measures against deflection of the profile sheets from the applied forces.

This is my take on your issue.

pol-master.com

Fastening timber to concrete, metal, wooden grillage

Timber is a practical building material. The low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, it is not so easy to fix the beam on the foundation, because the tree cannot be glued to concrete and not welded to metal. In this article, we will talk about how the timber is attached to various foundations, what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a house made of timber

All types of foundations for a house made of timber, which are used for wooden housing construction, can be divided into two main categories:

• with grillage;
• without grillage.

What is a grillage? Pile screw, as well as columnar foundations are made in the form of separate elements, the distance between which is 1.5–3 meters. Before building a house on such a foundation, it is necessary to connect all the pillars or piles to each other, which will increase the overall strength and rigidity of the structure. For this purpose, the grillage serves. It is performed in the following versions:

• concrete;
• metal;
• wooden.

To create a concrete grillage, formwork is made that covers the entire perimeter of the house, and, if necessary, passes under the inner walls. Then the formwork is filled with reinforcement, which is welded or tied to the reinforcement of the foundation, after which the concrete is poured and compacted. After 25–30 days, the grillage is ready for laying the first (collar) crown. To create a metal grillage, a corner or channel is used, which is laid on the foundation and welded to its reinforcement. Often, a grillage is made of two steel corners, which are laid so that an overhead beam fits between them with an interference fit. Corners are welded to reinforcement or screw piles.

A wooden grillage is made from a beam, the cross section of which is slightly larger than that of a beam going to the walls. Before laying, this timber is dried to a moisture content of less than 13% and treated with antiseptics based on heavy oils. Previously, creosote was used for such processing, now used engine oil is most often used. After the coating dries, the grillage is attached to concrete with anchor bolts, and to metal with U-shaped brackets or thick plates. The brackets are welded to the screw piles in such a way that the beam can be screwed to them using bolts and nuts. The U-shaped bracket is welded so that it tightly covers the timber.

Foundations that do not need a grillage include slab, tape and combined. The upper part of such a foundation is a smooth concrete surface.

Briefly, the technology of fastening timber to concrete is described in the previous section. There are two ways to fasten the beam to concrete - using screw studs embedded in the foundation and using anchor bolts. The first method is more difficult, therefore, it requires high qualification of the designer and workers. The location of the studs is determined at the design stage, then, with an accuracy of 1 mm, they are inserted into the formwork and welded to the reinforcement, then concrete is poured. The overhead beam is marked in accordance with the project and holes for studs are drilled in it with an accuracy of 1 mm. The size of the holes at the bottom corresponds to the stud, and at the top it is slightly larger than the diameter of the washer. Then the overhead beam is put on the studs and fastened with washers and nuts.

For fastening with anchor bolts, the beam is laid on the foundation and the optimal places for the holes are determined. If the beam is laid on a combined foundation, then half of the holes are made in the center of the piles or supports, and the second half is placed between the first. On a strip foundation, holes can be drilled anywhere that corresponds to the center line of the beam and deviates from the edge or other hole by 70-150 millimeters. In most cases, anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm are used to fasten the beam, so the bottom of the hole is made with a diameter of 13-14 mm. The upper part of the hole is made with a diameter of 20-30 mm, depending on the diameter of the washer. Then, a hole is drilled in the foundation with a 12 mm diameter drill bit, after which all holes are cleaned of dust. When all the holes are ready, the beam is laid in place, the anchor bolts are inserted and tightened.

For fastening to a metal grillage, bolts and thick screws are used. If the grillage is made of a channel, then the bolts and screws are placed vertically, if from two corners, then horizontally. For fastening with screws, a grillage is drilled (this can be done from below if a beam is laid in it, or from above if there is no beam yet), then a hole is drilled in the beam. The diameter of the hole in the grillage is 1–2 mm larger than the diameter of the screw, and in the timber, on the contrary, it is 2–4 mm smaller. Fastening with a screw is easier to perform, but less reliable. To attach the beam with a bolt, a suitable hole is drilled in the grillage. Then the beam is drilled. The diameter of the hole in the lower part of the beam is 1-2 mm larger than the thickness of the bolt, and in the upper part of the beam the diameter is 1-2 mm larger than the washer. Then a washer is inserted into the hole and the bolt is inserted either from above or from below. In a grillage of two corners, the bolt is always placed on the outside. A suitable lock washer is placed between the washer and the bolt or nut to prevent loosening of the connection.

How to attach a beam to a wooden grillage

To attach the timber to the wooden grillage, use wooden dowels or shrinkage compensators. To install wooden pins in a beam and grillage, a hole is made, the diameter of which is a fraction of a millimeter less than the diameter of the pin. Wooden pins must be treated with protective impregnations and only after that they are driven into the holes. The technology for installing expansion joints is described in detail in the article Shrinkage compensator for a log house from a bar.

Waterproofing

The lower beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be adequately protected from water and dampness, however, it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasantly smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then less effective substances must be used, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or the iron / concrete grillage and the beam. This material will protect the beam from condensate, which falls during temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, and the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. This will protect the wall from moisture and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is best

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

• timber moisture;
• climatic conditions;
• seismic activity;
• strength of the most frequent winds.

To fasten a wet (over 16%) beam to a wooden grillage, only shrinkage compensators must be used. All other attachment methods are ineffective.

After all, a beam of high and especially natural humidity gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten a beam of high or natural moisture to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing a beam on threaded studs. Instead of a nut and washer, you must use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where heavy and long rains fall in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a lower beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective hydroprotection and install it on the most rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach should be applied in regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting a rigid mount in seismically active or windy regions will cause the mount to loosen under the influence of external factors and the house will begin to sway. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with timber of natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the flashing crown and the foundation or grillage.

aquagroup.ru

do-it-yourself video installation instructions, features of installing stairs, floor beams to the wall, to the armored belt, resistant to a concrete base, to metal, price, photo

All photos from the article

During the construction process, there is often a need to fasten wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, it is necessary to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.

Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to install it yourself, this article will be devoted to this issue.

What you need to know about this type of work

Before you start installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances that will ensure the highest reliability:

Important! Sometimes you have to proceed from the existing situation when the walls are erected, but even in such cases you can achieve an excellent result of the work. You need not save on fasteners for wooden structures and choose the most reliable of them.

Overview of the main mounting options

The choice of one or another solution depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many ways, we will consider the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements you need to install:

• Fastening a wooden beam to a concrete wall is carried out using quick-mount dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: holes are drilled in a wooden block through a certain distance, the diameter of which must be equal to the size of the fastener, holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall, for reliability, the length of the element in the wall should be twice the thickness of the bar.

• Fastening wooden floor beams to the wall is best done with support on a partition or wall, but in extreme cases, you can use special supports that are securely attached to concrete and transfer the load to the wall, which ensures high reliability of the structure. The most important thing in this case is the use of massive anchors, because they will hold the entire system.

• Fastening wooden racks to a concrete base is easiest to do with the help of special anchor bases. A hole is drilled under them, and the elements are carefully clogged, after which you get a ready-made connecting unit that securely fixes the element, preventing it from moving under the influence of loads during operation. For difficult cases, you can use a special adjustable support, which is equipped with a threaded assembly.

Important! As for the support nodes, they can be used on different types of bases, the only difference is the configuration of attachment to the surface, it can be a platform (for all types of materials) or a pin (for concrete and brick).

Metal

Fastening wood to metal has its own characteristics, we will consider them in more detail:

Important! If the thickness of the metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, it is recommended to pre-make holes with a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

• Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them, you need to read the recommendations given by the instructions on the package, it will indicate which drill and how deep you need to make a hole and which screws to use for fixing. This is the easiest and fastest option, and the photo below shows some configurations of this type of product.

• For more massive structures, it is recommended to use metal fasteners, they have teeth that, when screwing a self-tapping screw of the required diameter, diverge and cut into aerated concrete, providing the highest reliability.

• If a wooden staircase is fastened to an aerated concrete floor, then additional reinforcement may be required with a threaded stud that goes through and provides the highest reliability.

Drywall

We note right away that heavy structures cannot be attached to this material, but small elements can be fixed very securely using the following products:

• The dowel "driva" is a knot with or without a drill at the end, the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
• The dowel "butterfly" is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it bursts from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but the work is very convenient to carry out.

Output

The video in this article will tell you more information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that following simple recommendations and using high-quality fasteners are the main components of the reliability of connections.

rubankom.com

Good afternoon. I need to lay the floor in the hallway with an area of ​​1.6 x 2.6 meters, the door from which leads to the street. Two channels lie along the long walls of this room at a distance of 1.11 meters from each other. I plan to weld a rectangular profile pipe on them, and fix the bars on it for laying the floorboard. Tell me the best option for attaching a beam to a metal profile pipe.

Combined load-bearing structures, combining metal and wood in different versions, have recently been widely used in the construction of frame houses, fences and gates, installation of roof truss systems, expansion and insulation of balconies and loggias. Depending on the expected load on the structure, one of two methods of attaching wood to metal is chosen.

• on reinforced perforated corners welded to metal;
• connection of two materials with special screws.

Reinforced perforated connecting corners are usually used during the installation of truss structures to strengthen the rigidity of the roof, when instead of wooden beams over 10 m long, powerful channels are installed as rafters, ridge supports and girders.

Wooden bars to the crate of a metal profile pipe are fixed with self-tapping screws, and any floor covering can be laid on top of them

For lighter supporting structures, which include the floor system you planned in the hallway, the best option for attaching a wooden beam to a metal profile is self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. In this case, the wall thickness of the profile pipe must be at least 2 mm so that the applied thread does not loosen over time.

In practice, any supporting structure where wood and metal work in pairs has a significant drawback - this is the susceptibility of hygroscopic wood to decay and the tendency of metal to corrode when in contact with moisture. Therefore, for fastening these two materials, be sure to use not black, but special galvanized roofing screws.

For fixing wood and metal in combined load-bearing structures, it is recommended to use galvanized roofing self-tapping screws that are not subject to corrosion.

Be sure to treat all wooden elements with antiseptic and moisture-repellent compounds before starting installation, and it is desirable to paint metal surfaces.

italon.spb.ru

how to make and install by yourself

Previously, rural fences were one continuous waving curves. and palisades.

Now fences can be made from completely different materials: people actively use corrugated board, chain-link mesh, wooden and metal picket fences, polycarbonate sheets, forged fences, welded panel structures, vinyl fences, etc.

But a fence made of boards on metal poles is perhaps the most practical and beautiful solution.

Wood is still one of the most beautiful materials that you can build a fence with, despite all the new inventions.

It is a durable natural material that is in perfect harmony with nature. Especially if the house itself is also made of wood. Moreover, this option is not at all expensive and you can put it on your own.

What metal products are suitable

For any fence, supports are needed on which the fence itself will be attached. In addition, the fence is subject to wind and mechanical stress.

Metal pipes are suitable as supports. It can be welded pipes of round or square section.

The thickness of the metal must be at least 3 mm. The diameter of the pipe or profile can vary from 5 to 10 cm, more is rarely required.

The thickness of the support will depend on the overall massiveness of the future structure. Pipes are inexpensive, easy to work with, they perform well as supports, and last a long time.

If the pipe is too long (6-7 m), it can be cut with a grinder into the desired lengths. Also, screw piles can act as pillars - this is a more "advanced" option.

Installation of screw piles into the ground is quite easy. The piles themselves, thanks to their screws, hold well in the ground and brilliantly perform their supporting function.

Preliminary preparation

All elements of the fence, no matter what material they are made of, are pre-treated.

Before deepening, metal poles (pipes) must be carefully painted over, even if they are galvanized.

This will improve their anti-corrosion resistance. You can not paint only those pillars to which the gate or gate will be attached, if it is planned to carry out additional welding work with them (weld hinges, etc.).

The tree (both the crossbars and the picket fence) must be treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant composition. This will have to be done later, during operation.

After treatment with a solution, wooden boards are coated with a primer. And then - staining: with any suitable varnish or paint.

Please watch the related video:

You can simply cover it with an antiseptic, which will eventually take on a natural brownish or grayish color (depending on the type of wood itself).

Installation of metal supports

Supports are best installed at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other.

To do this, it is necessary to mark the site along the perimeter, divide it into equal segments and mark the points where the supports will be installed.

The depth of the pit should be at least 50 cm, but only for the lowest fences. For a fence with a height of 1.5-2 meters, the depth of the support must be at least a meter.

If the pillars are 3.5 meters, then the depth should capture 1.5 meters. Deeper pits are not needed, it is unnecessary, as well as too high fences.

As for the width of the pit, the following rule works: the diameter of the hole for the pole is approximately equal to three pipe diameters.

You can deepen the pillars in several different ways:

Simple driving into the ground - suitable in cases where the height of the fence is supposed to be low, and the soil is soft enough, not clayey (but not too loose, this will not hold a support).

A long pole is more difficult to drive into the ground while maintaining its full verticality.

Backfilling with crushed stone or sand - also suitable for light fences and for areas with low wind load.

To do this, a hole of the required depth is dug in the ground, into which a pillar is immersed with further filling of the voids with sand or gravel and compacted tightly.

Concreting is the most reliable option, concreted supports can withstand the weight of high and strong fences.

Concrete mortar is poured only when there is confidence that the support is strictly vertical.

Sometimes you can use combined methods - for example, you can dig a shallow hole and drive a pipe into it.

Then fill the remaining space with bulk material or fill it with mortar: it turns out that the post is half driven in, and the upper half is packed or concreted.

This is convenient to do, for example, with screw piles. You can concrete the lower part, and fill the top with gravel.

The choice of method depends on the materials used and the future load on the fence.

When concreting, the so-called "heel", a T-shaped plate, can be welded to the bottom of the pipe, this element is able to further strengthen the position of the support in concrete or crushed stone.

But, as practice shows, welding any additional reinforcement to the post complicates the installation of its position in the hole, so such things are rarely done.

Some particularly scrupulous builders make roofing felt sleeves for the lower part of the column.

fence boards

A fence made of boards on metal poles can look completely different depending on which finish is chosen.

Anything can be used as pickets for such a fence:

• Joiner's picket fence, including figured;
• Board-inch;
• Lining;
• Slab.

Any planed or edged boards

Staining and treatment with antiseptics was discussed above. There are other decorative options: for example, to artificially age a tree.

To do this, you can process the wood with a blowtorch - the soft fibers will burn out and you will get a relief. Then, with a metal nozzle or any other suitable tool, scrape off the charred wood.

You can also burn a special pattern on the board. After these manipulations, treat the tree with an antiseptic.

Fastening elements

Wooden boards can be fixed to the fence vertically or horizontally.

Vertical arrangement. Two (in rare cases 3) crossbars, wooden or metal, are welded onto the support, on which then, respectively, wooden fence boards will be strung.

Between you can leave gaps large or small, or fasten end-to-end.

In the latter case, small gaps of 2-3 mm must be left so that the wood has the opportunity to expand with temperature or humidity changes, otherwise the fence will stand on end.

Horizontal arrangement. Here are the following mounting options:

Regular mount. Two crossbars are located diagonally and intersect in the middle. Boards are nailed to the crossed beams.

In this case, the fastening of the boards will be both to the pillars and to the crossbars. The gap between the boards is allowed arbitrary.

A barcode model (different thicknesses with the same gaps), as an option: two boards of 15 cm in a row with a gap of 3 cm, and two boards of 50 cm each with the same gap, after which the order is repeated.

Fence boards in this case are attached directly to the posts. In the middle of the span, if it is too long, you can fasten the boards with a vertical bar (rail).

"Chess": for example, a board of 100 mm with a gap of 60 mm on one half of the span is fastened in an even order, and on the adjacent one - in an odd one.

Other art options are also available. You can make large gaps, or you can overlap the boards. The main thing to remember is that the tighter the boards fit together, the higher the material consumption.

A small "life hack"

With a horizontal version, each fence board must be attached to a metal pole. It takes two self-tapping screws for one fastening (it is better if they are with a drill at the end).

Not every self-tapping screw will take the thickness of a metal column of 3 mm, so you can first drill with a regular drill with a diameter of 3.2 mm, and only then drive in self-tapping screws.

If the screws do not fit well, you can drop a little machine oil.

Video on the topic of the article:

Since this process is quite laborious, there is an alternative option: attach two wooden slats to each pole with self-tapping screws, and then nail horizontal boards to them with ordinary galvanized nails.

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Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal poles: design features

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as a guard against stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a protective structure - brick, concrete and metal products, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used to install a wooden fence, today a wooden fence is installed on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

The tree is always in demand, because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

• Naturalness.
• Decorative.
• Aesthetics.
• Unique color and texture.
• Low cost in comparison with fences made of other materials.
• Excellent compatibility with the architectural style of any building.
• Ease of erection.
• Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood has its drawbacks, namely, relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic products for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of supporting metal products include:

• Ease of installation work.
• Reliability and durability of a design.
• Strength.
• Stability against static and dynamic loads.
• The ability to use any method of fixation.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if a metal pipe is used, the price of the fence will increase significantly, but given that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are produced with different sections:

• Square. Such products are easily mounted in sections and are distinguished by a reliable connection. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, overall dimensions of the sides - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
• Round. If a metal pipe with a circular section is used, the price of the supports will be somewhat lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a circular cross section makes it possible to select products of the desired thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
• Rectangular. From the square section, these products are distinguished only by the shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order for a wooden fence on metal poles to stand for more than a dozen years, it is necessary to protect not only the main material, but also the elements of the metal fence. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be put on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help to preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Plot marking

Before proceeding with the manufacture of the fence, it is necessary to make markings. To do this, first, where it is planned to make a wooden fence on metal poles, you need to remove shrubs, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the surface of the soil. Only now is the marking done. You need to do the following:

• Drive in pegs at the extreme points of the future fence.
• Stretch a string between them.
• Mark the places where the fence supports will be installed. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal poles with your own hands, it is cheapest to hammer pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. Two people are needed to complete the work: one clogs, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not clog the pipes, but dig in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and tamp the ground well.

The following mounting options are more laborious, but also more reliable:

• Concreting of metal supports.
• Mounting on a concrete plinth.
• Use of screw piles. For complex and heaving soils, this is an excellent solution to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

Remarkably, the rules listed below are suitable for mounting supports made of different materials:

• It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their secure fixation in the soil. After that, so that over time the pillars do not loosen, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete. Further work can be continued only after the concrete hardens.
• They begin work by installing the extreme corner piles, carefully setting them in height. Subsequent columns are installed on the same level as the previous one. In order to avoid any unwanted changes, it is possible to dig instead of the extreme posts of the rail to save the height indicator, stretch the twine between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on the desired height mark.

• How the poles should be installed - above the future fence, below or flush - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal poles should be installed so that the supports rise above the picket fence by several centimeters.
• To prevent the wind from turning the fence on rocky, sandy and non-rocky soils, it is necessary to deepen the supports by at least half the height of the fence.
• Expanding the lower end of the post will increase its strength and durability. This extension will serve as a welded cross.
• After all the pillars are installed, small cones can be made from the concrete solution at their base to drain water.

Picket fence installation

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - runs - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the mount earlier and only then install the poles. But then you also need to make sure that all fasteners are at the same level and create a single line, only in this way it will be possible to attach runs without any problems.

Depending on what material the transverse bars are made of - wood or a metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal poles using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastener, and wood products are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws. If the transverse bars are made of wood, then they are fixed to the mount with bolts, but the picket fence is fixed with ordinary nails. The main thing at the same time is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either closely or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. At the same time, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve a much longer period of time.

It remains only to make and install the gate and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated board, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal poles goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also on all elements of the structure.

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How to attach a wooden block to metal

Construction is a complex process that requires a lot of knowledge and skills. And if a person is faced with the task of attaching a wooden beam to metal, then for this it is important to find out the necessary information. Because this work process is extremely specific and requires at least minimal skill, and even better if the work is done not alone, but in four hands.

Where to start and what to do

To begin with, it is worth deciding on the possible thickness of the metal itself, and by its size already select the necessary tools. It is important to choose high-quality and durable screws, the thickness of which will directly depend on the type of metal sheet. Everything should be as harmonious as possible and correctly selected. The size of the beam in this case does not play too big a role. In order to attach a beam to metal, in a metal sheet or in any other form, you need to drill the necessary hole that will fit the beam. And after that, set the tree to the required height or correct position and then begin to install the screws. Regarding the screws, you should not feel sorry for them, because in this process they are a guarantee of the reliability and strength of the entire structure. If you suddenly need to install a tree in slate instead of metal, for example, then the screws should be replaced with self-tapping screws of the greatest length and volume. Since the work is quite painstaking, and the beam will have to be held while screwing the screws, it is worth using the services of some assistant. Because it is almost impossible to cope with this task alone. In four hands, everything will go much faster and with a full guarantee of quality.

Should I prepare the tree?

If wood-to-metal installation is necessary for outdoor construction, then the wood must be prepared and lubricated with a special solution to ensure that the wood is dry and not exposed to moisture. So you can ensure that the structure stands for a long time and reliably, and pleases you with its beautiful appearance. The breed of wood when working with metal does not have much knowledge, the main thing is to choose the ideal option for size and purpose of use.

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Under reliable protection

In order for wooden structures to retain their stability for a long time even outdoors, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.

Rain and wind won't care!

As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur imperceptibly. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners' heads. Not only that - rotten wood and rusted metal parts over time can become a threat to the stability of the entire building.

Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying special coatings to steel parts. Some of them, such as chromium, enter into a chemical reaction with steel, others form a film on the metal surface, including from a special powder.

When working with wood, in addition to weatherproof impregnation, the best means of rotting is constructive protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.

Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.

Blackened screws can also be used for dark types of wood, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.

Stainless steel screws are the best choice when constructing structures that will be outdoors.

Formatted screws(1) are used mainly for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture to themselves and become visible through a layer of paint. But with black phosphated screws this will not happen. Chrome-plated/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by the yellowish coloration. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Screws and bolts made of stainless steel(4) - twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.

The phrase "high-quality steel" still does not say anything about the resistance of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. It is only through special treatment or additions of other metals that steel becomes corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods of protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.

The degree of anti-corrosion protection that each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one method or another. Fasteners made of high-quality stainless steel are the most expensive, but for them there will definitely not be any problems with corrosion.

The most budget option is galvanized steel parts. But if you want these parts to not rust, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. The chrome finish is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.

1. Chrome plated

In chromium plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are immersed in chromic acid, resulting in the formation of a chromium film on the products. It gives very good corrosion protection to screws and other fasteners, which remains, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products are well suited to outdoor wood in terms of color.

2. Galvanized

During galvanizing, steel acquires a protective layer of zinc. During hot galvanizing, parts are immersed in a zinc bath heated to +450°C. During galvanization, zinc is applied to the part

in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.

3. Stainless steel

High-grade stainless steel is understood to mean types of steel which, by adding chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium to them, become completely immune to corrosion under normal atmospheric exposure. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, so some manufacturers subject their fasteners to special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that

stainless steel is not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance of stainless steel, regular washing of metal products with warm water with surfactants is required.

4. Powder coated

Before applying the powder-lacquer coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in a furnace at a temperature above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.

So the supports will stand for a long time!

Driving bases: they do not require concrete

When erecting wooden structures that will have to be in the open air, it is very important that the tree does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pole bases are the simplest and most inexpensive way to install poles stably and keep them dry. On such supports, you can install a light structure made of wood or frame technology.

When hammering the bases into the ground, special tools should be used: a plastic mallet and a plastic plug inserted inside the cartridge - it is on it that you should strike. If you beat with an ordinary hammer directly on the metal, you can damage the upper part of the product.

For optimal protection against moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with protective azure. Holes drilled for fasteners must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. The protective coating must dry completely, only then you can proceed with the installation.

Here are two types of anchors for wooden poles that are installed on a concrete foundation and protected from moisture. The H-shaped anchor is suitable for various sized poles. The lower third of the anchor is poured with concrete. Those who find fixing with the classic U-anchor too visible can mount the supports on the almost invisible anchors with a support shoe. In the middle of the support, a file is made, holes for fixing bolts are marked in the support, the support is put on the central panel of the anchor and fixed with bolts. Then the support is concreted.

The supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be slightly dug, cut down, the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a bar of a suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability, it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.

PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES

Top caps

To prevent rainwater from damaging the tree, special top covers are put on top of the support, sawed off at an angle or rounded off.

So the floors will last longer

Structural protection of wood is especially important when laying floors on open terraces.

It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope to one side - so the water will drain off the terrace by itself.

We illustrated two other simple but effective techniques with drawings.

That's right: the head of the self-tapping screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hardwood, so you should always pre-drill holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw for them.

Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is depressed. In the first case, you can get hurt by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the screw and water collects.

A simple galvanized steel pommel can be bought for 140 rubles. in the construction supermarket.

Made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, the pommel costs almost 400 rubles.

Plastic tops are designed for children's furniture or buildings on the playground. They protect the wood from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rubles.

The upper part of the support without a top must either be rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.

You can buy a pole top made of wood.