Do-it-yourself blade for a walk-behind tractor: winter use of a household assistant. Making a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands in size Drawing a shovel for cleaning snow with a walk-behind tractor

Conclusion

As you can see, any person who knows how to handle tools and apparatus for electric welding can independently create a snow plow from a barrel or a gas cylinder. There is nothing complicated in this, this will require only the simplest drawings, which are plentiful on the Internet, tools and materials available in the household of almost any craftsman. In addition, this will provide an opportunity to significantly save on the purchase of ready-made attachments. The video shows the installation and operation of the blade on a walk-behind tractor.

Snowy winter is a problem for most regions of Russia. If in cities communal and road organizations equipped with special equipment are puzzled by this problem, then in private houses the owners are left face to face with snow. Why not use an assistant popular with site owners, usually used only in summer? Motoblocks in this sense are universal, the main thing is to know how to make a blade for a motoblock with your own hands.

Buy or hand build?

Snow plows in stores are quite expensive, in addition, there are special designs that use a walk-behind tractor drive for effective snow removal. If you do not have the necessary metalworking skills, it is safer to purchase factory-made snow removal attachments.

However, having a welding machine, a drill, material and free time, you can seriously save on the purchase of this attachment. In addition, a do-it-yourself blade for a walk-behind tractor can be modified and repaired at any time, and the reliability of such products is often higher.

Experience of professionals

It’s not worth reinventing the wheel, an approximate scheme for manufacturing equipment for snow cleaning can be borrowed from manufacturers, for example, use a drawing of a blade for a Vsevolozhsky RMZ walk-behind tractor. Of course, the design can be simplified or strengthened, depending on the model of the walk-behind tractor;

Design

The main parts of the design are:

• A shovel-dump or knife is a working part that interacts with snow. It can be made from various materials. Suitable metal plate with a thickness of 3 mm. Remember that the lower part can cling to the road surface and must be additionally reinforced with a strip of metal on the working side and stiffeners on the back.
• Swivel mechanism. It is often much more convenient to use a blade turned 30º so as not to push all the snow mass in front of you, but to throw it away from the direction of travel. This reduces the load on the walk-behind tractor and allows you to move the snow in the right direction. The blade rotation and locking mechanism will require a plate with a thickness of at least 10 mm, a strong pivot bolt at the main attachment point and a pin connection to lock the blade in a straight or oblique position.
• The docking and attachment to the walk-behind tractor for each model may be different. To make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, you should not pay attention to the versatility of the attachment, it is better to take care of the reliability of fixing the blade on your walk-behind tractor.

Tools

Without a special tool, metalworking can be quite difficult. The following tools and devices should be prepared in the craftsman's workshop:

• Welding machine. Handicraft craftsmen often use small transformer or inverter devices that allow mobile work. Remember safety precautions when working with welding.
• Angle grinder, popularly referred to as a grinder. Remember to protect flammable materials from sparks, which can fly up to fifteen meters during operation.
• Drill or perforator with a set of drills for metal of different diameters. Holes for bolted and finger connections are required.
• Clamps and clamps can come in handy when working without an assistant.

materials

To make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, the master has no restrictions on the selection of material, the list below shows only recommended parts, as well as possible replacements:

• A metal plate with a thickness of at least 3 mm for the manufacture of the working part of the blade. The dimensions depend on the planned parameters of the attachment, which, in turn, directly depend on the power of the walk-behind tractor. An old metal barrel of 200 liters can serve as an excellent material, for which you need to cut it into 3 parts along and weld two of them around the perimeter for rigidity. When cutting the barrel lengthwise, take precautions so that the sheet of metal does not unexpectedly bounce to the side. The third part can be cut for other blade parts.
• Metal stiffeners can be made from a wide variety of materials, such as the remains of a 3 mm plate or angles and reinforcement.
• The metal plate of the swivel mechanism must be at least 8 mm thick, as it is the most vulnerable point.
• A 40 x 40 mm square pipe will be needed to make the clutch assembly, which can be made adjustable using holes and bolts.
• For wide blades, additional reinforcement from a pipe or angle may be required.
• Bolts and nuts with washers for fastening various assemblies and parts. Pins for the adjustable part of the swivel mechanism.

You can make a blade for a walk-behind tractor from a gas cylinder, but remember the safety measures when working with gas. The cylinder must first be completely filled with water to eliminate any possibility of ignition or explosion.

blade manufacturing

The figure shows a schematic diagram of a snowplough, based on the factory drawings at the beginning of the article. The design is simplified and the assembly is suitable for medium and light walk-behind tractors. Ultra-light devices and motor cultivators do not have enough power for effective snow removal. The dimensions of the blade depend on the wheelbase of the walk-behind tractor, its power and the size of the materials available. When manufacturing a blade with a width of more than 1 m, be sure to provide structural reinforcement.

A motor cultivator is a useful tool that will help you not only plow the land on the site, but also move loads or clear the area of ​​snow. To use additional functions, you will need to purchase special attachments. It is not cheap, so many equipment owners make various attachments, including, for example, a blade for a walk-behind tractor with their own hands.

Snow clearing equipment can be installed on any agricultural machinery, including walk-behind tractors. The use of these devices will greatly facilitate the life of the owner of a private house, since with their help it is much easier to get rid of drifts than manually.

The plow for a walk-behind tractor consists of several parts: a knife, a mechanism for adjusting the angle of rotation, mounts and a retainer on the chassis. There are many options for factory dumps, but their cost is quite high. For this reason, owners use drawings to help them assemble attachments on their own.

There are several design options that allow you to perform work in different areas. The blade must be strong enough so that it can not only remove a dense snow mass, but also level the sites, rake debris and perform other work at different times of the year. The advantage of using dumps is that all work will be carried out as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Snow shovel design

Important! All shovels for walk-behind tractors have a similar device, so they can be made according to a general algorithm.

The structure must be rotated and fixed in three positions:

• directly;
• right and left by 30 degrees.

A shovel can be cut from an old tin barrel or an empty propane tank. For fixing on the chassis, metal cotter pins are used. The grip of the working surface of the knife should be about a meter, and the thickness of the metal should be about 3 millimeters.

In order to make a blade for a walk-behind tractor, you need to prepare:

• barrel with a standard volume (200 liters);
• a steel plate measuring 85x10x0.3 centimeters;
• a piece of pipe with a square section of 4x4 cm, 1 meter long;
• bolts of sizes M12, 10 and 8, as well as nuts suitable for them;
• durable rubber plate;
• steel sheet.

In addition, prepare tools: metal drills, a welding machine and electrodes, an electric drill, a set of box wrenches, a grinder and metal cutting discs.

Important! Before you make a blade, make sure that the tool is in good condition and that you can cope with its use. Observe safety precautions, wear a protective mask for welding, and use special glasses when drilling.

Instructions for making a homemade grader

We will give an example of how a shovel is made in the simplest way - a blade for a walk-behind tractor. You do not need to purchase large metal sheets for it, this is the main advantage of this method.

Three blade options can be cut out of the barrel: standard, with a small working width, or, conversely, elongated. This will allow you to use the walk-behind tractor both for cleaning narrow paths and for leveling spacious areas. The good thing about a barrel is that it already has the roundness that a grader should have. You will get rid of the need to heat the metal sheet and bend it.

Important! Before installing the grader on the walk-behind tractor, treat it with a special primer or paint. This will greatly increase its service life, as painting will resist corrosion.

A rubber gasket is installed on the working edge of the blade, which should be slightly wider than the knife. In this case, you will be sure that when turning or changing the angle of the bucket, the paving stones or flooring in the yard will not be damaged.

Differences of other modifications of the grader

If you want to make attachments from steel sheet, then you should take options at least 3 millimeters thick. You should not buy thicker steel, as it will be very difficult to shape it. To ensure rigidity, make the racks of stronger steel, it will be easy to bend narrow strips.

Holes are made in these racks to help you attach attachments to the walk-behind tractor. In total, this design provides for 4 parts: a pair of rods, a working canvas, brackets and rods. A steel plate knife is mounted on a shovel with bolts. A minimum of 4 stiffeners must be installed on a steel grader. Brackets are mounted on the frame of the power unit of the motor.

The rods are attached to the blade and brackets. When not in use, it is necessary to lower the working cloth to take the load off the frame of the cultivator's power unit. The slewing mechanism of this grader is manufactured according to the same principle as in the version described above.

Purchasing ready-made attachments can punch a decent hole in your budget, so you should pay attention to the instructions above for making it yourself. With a gas cylinder or an old barrel on hand, you can make this design yourself.

In terms of time, work usually takes no more than three hours. Additional materials for making a grader will cost you much less than a factory-made knife. Using a walk-behind tractor to clear snow from sites is quite simple: set the shovel at an angle of 30 degrees and lower it.

A self-made grader will perfectly cope with the snow mass. Users note that it is easy for them to level construction sites, laying paving slabs or equipping beds.

There are situations when the purchase of mounted snowplow equipment for some reason impossible or disadvantageous.

Therefore, it has to be made on one's own.

Businesses have much more power than ordinary people.

Therefore, the equipment can do more:

• powerful;
• complex.

We will tell:

• how make your own various options for mounted snow removal equipment;
• about everyone pros and cons of using such devices.

The use of homemade snowplow attachments is not only numerous pros but also extremely serious minuses.

The main advantage such snow blowers is a serious cost reduction associated with:

• purchase;
• transportation.

After all, most details can:

• remove from decommissioned equipment;
• buy for a penny at the collection point and scrap metal.

Another plus is that you can make custom equipment that is ideal for some specific tasks.

The main disadvantage self-manufacturing of attachments are problems with the insurance company and the traffic police that arise after leaving the public roads.

Indeed, in most cases, employees of these structures perceive the installation of any attachments as making changes to the design .

Therefore, after installing the unit the car must pass inspection, which will be carefully checked:

• conformity new equipment designs cars;
• condition most car.

Often decisive factor, which leads to a ban on the operation of a communal machine with homemade attachments, is the lack of various documents and certificates for equipment.

Therefore, before installing homemade attachments, you must probe the soil in the traffic police.

After all, the inspector can not only prohibit, but also suggest the right organization where all paperwork is done correctly.

Self-manufacturing

To find finished drawings and a description for the manufacture of one or another home-made mounted snow blower for a particular machine is very difficult. After all, for each type of vehicle, the unit is installed in some special way.

Also different mounting methods and location mounting holes.

Therefore, in most cases it is necessary:

• take drawings and manufacturing techniques for a device for one machine and fit it to another;
• draw up a drawing yourself, using a unit installed on another vehicle as a sample.

In addition, the parts for which the drawing is drawn up are far from always available.

Therefore, you have to:

• draw up a new drawing;
• do it the old way, making changes on the go.

Should know three main conditions for self-production of good mounted snowplows are:

• availability of skilled and experienced masters;
• access to necessary equipment;
• good ones lawyers who will be able to obtain the necessary documents and legalize the units.

If you decide to make some snowplow attachments yourself, then make sure that all three conditions are met.

Can make required equipment:

• from a not too suitable drawing;
• without a drawing at all;
• considering the finished unit.

But only such specialists, how:

• welders;
• turners;
• locksmiths;
• hydraulics.

Also make sure they have everything you need equipment.

Then talk to:

• traffic police officers;
• lawyers or companies involved in auto technical expertise and legalization of various changes made to the design of the vehicle.

Perhaps, after considering all the costs, including payment to these companies or lawyers, you decide that buy a complete unit with all permissions:

• simpler;
• cheaper.

Forums that can help

1. description of a homemade blade for a small Chinese truck. By slightly increasing its size, it can be adapted to ZIL130, GAZ53 or KAMAZ4326.
2. tell how to make an auger snow blower for a mini tractor. By increasing the size and installing a hydraulic motor, it can be used with any truck.
3. the owner of the Oka car describes the independent production of the blade. By increasing the size and modifying the mount, it can be installed on a larger car, for example, UAZ 469 or GAZ 66.
4. describe the experience of manufacturing a blade from a steel pipe for the MTZ tractor.

Information from these forums will help you understand all process complexity self-manufacturing of snowplows.

There you will also find:

• Photo;
• sketches;
• blueprints

various homemade products designed to deal with snow.

How to make a dump yourself

To build your own front snow plow, you will be required:

• steel barrel (200 liters);
• steel corner with a shelf size of 10-15 millimeters;
• steel corner or square 30 mm in size;
• corner or square with a cross section of 50 millimeters;
• 2 any hinges for a breaking frame;
• 3 small double-sided hydraulic cylinders;
• 2-3 any hinges (you can use garage hinges by drilling holes in them and inserting oilers);
• fitting;
• hoses;
• control panel and (if necessary) hydraulic pump;
• conveyor belt 20 mm thick;
• bolts and nuts of different sizes;
• riveter and rivets.

Put barrel and measure its circumference.

Divide the resulting value by 3, this will be the height of the blade.

Mark the barrel three vertical lines at the same distance.

Cut the barrel into three equal parts.

Then cut off the cover from each element on both sides and with pliers fold all edges at a distance of 3-5 mm to make them safe.

From a corner of 10-15 millimeters make amplifiers, corresponding in shape to the trimmings of the barrel. To do this, cut one of the sides of the corner in 1 centimeter increments. Carefully bend the cut corner so that it takes the shape of a barrel. Then weld the cuts.

If the width of one barrel trim is not enough for a blade, then make it from several. In this case adjacent sheets should overlap at a distance of 20–25 cm so that they can be strengthened with amplifiers.

Arrange amplifiers like this:

• 2 at the edges;
• the rest at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from each other.

Connect the amplifiers to the trimmings of the barrel with rivets, the step between the rivets is 3-5 centimeters. Cut a 5 cm wide piece from the conveyor belt and bolt it to the bottom of the blade.

Don't use rivets because they won't be able to hold the tape effectively.

At a distance of 5 centimeters from the bottom of the blade, weld a 50 mm square or corner along the entire structure and cut off another of the same corner. This will be a swivel joint that changes the angle of the blade.

Install hinges between them.

If you are using door hinges with grease fittings, then place them so that they need to be pulled in different directions to separate.

Weld the same corner or square on top.

Then weld an extension to it - a piece of the same corner 30–40 centimeters long, installed perpendicularly.

Weld braces that will strengthen the extension. Then install a hydraulic cylinder between the lower and upper (located after the hinges) corner. He will tilt the device.

Do lift and turn system devices in different directions using:

• swivel joints;
• corners of different sizes;
• hydraulic cylinders.

Attach the entire structure to the car frame. Do not mount the blade to the bumper, heavy load will tear it off and damage your creation.

Connect to hydraulic cylinders:

• fittings;
• hoses.

Then lay the hoses into the cab and install the control panel there.

His can be removed from any decommissioned equipment equipped with various hydraulic devices.

Connect the hydraulics to the truck's hydraulic pump, or connect a separate hydraulic pump to the PTO.

It is undesirable to connect the hydraulic pump directly to the engine by belt or chain drive. In this case, you will not be able to disable it if necessary.

Make sure that:

• all custom construction assembled correctly;
• nothing anywhere not confused And does not hang out.

Check the condition of the entire hydraulic system, first with the switch off, then with:

• wound up motor;
• connected hydraulic pump.

If there are no leaks anywhere, check the operation of the control panel.

After making sure that everything is working correctly, test the snow blower in real conditions by clearing some area of ​​snow.

Output

The use of home-made mounted snowplows where there are no conflicts with:

• traffic police officers;
• insurance companies,

Really reduces costs to fight the snow.

After all, the cost of these devices, assembled from what could be removed from decommissioned equipment or found at metal collection points, is ten times lower than that of the units that are sold in stores.

Yes, and high-quality homemade attachments not inferior to those that can be bought in the store on:

• productivity;
• reliability.

In this video you can see how Niva works with a snow plow:

In contact with

For everyone who lives in a private house, in winter there is a need to clear the territories from snow. It is especially hard for those who have a car, including me. In addition to the paths, it is necessary to clean the race. Remembering the winter of 2016-2017, there was a lot of snow then compared to this winter. I decided to make a shovel on a walk-behind tractor, thereby facilitating the task of cleaning the territory. After reviewing the options for factory, as well as home-made shovels on the Internet, I decided to do it myself. This option is less expensive, the more material is available.

To make a shovel you will need:
Materials:

• profile pipe 20×40 mm.
• iron sheet 6 mm.
• iron sheet 1.5 mm.
• corner 50 × 50 mm.
• corner 40 × 40 mm.
• strip 4×40 mm.
• iron rod 10 mm
• bolts, washers, nuts 10 mm.
• bolts, washers, nuts 8 mm.
• conveyor belt
• dye

• angle grinder (Bulgarian)
• welding machine, electrodes
• drill, drills
• hammer
• pliers
• wrenches, etc.

All the materials are there, you can get to work.
Shovel size 1000×450 mm. I cut a profile pipe following sizes:
1000 mm. = 2 pcs.
450 mm. = 2 pcs.
370 mm. = 1 piece
I cut all pipes, except for the one that is 370 mm., at an angle of 45 degrees. I weld. I clean the welds on one side, where a 1.5 mm iron sheet will be welded.

Now I cut off four corners 40 × 40 mm. 20 mm long. They will serve as a limiter for the rotation of the shovel (initially, I didn’t want to fix the shovel with anything, it turned out to be not convenient). I make markings, weld to 6 mm plates.
I drill 10mm holes. for attaching to a bracket.
I weld an iron sheet 1.5 mm.