How to make a simple folding knife with your own hands. Drawings of folding knives that you can do at home yourself

Today, buying a folding knife is not at all difficult, since such a product is not only presented in a huge assortment, it is also sold in many retail stores, as well as on Internet sites. But, despite this, every day the number of people who want to make handmade folding knife. This is due to the fact that homemade folding knives are unique and a person can customize it as much as possible to suit their preferences. Moreover, in the process of self-manufacturing a knife, a person can use any materials, which will make the device reliable and durable.

Before you start making your own folding knife, you need to clearly define the following indicators:

• what will be the shape of the future knife;
• what material will be used for its manufacture;
• what design will the future knife have;
• what will be the design of the knife.

DIY folding knives can be made of any material and have any shape, the main thing is to adhere to the established standards in the manufacture. When choosing materials for a knife, it is necessary to give preference to the most durable and strong material. For the blade, stainless steel with high hardness or Damascus steel is suitable. Of course, most people prefer stainless steel, because it is easier to make a knife out of it and, unlike Damascus steel, it is resistant to corrosion.

In addition to materials, for the manufacture of a knife, it is necessary to prepare tools that may be required in the process of performing the work. It is worth noting that in the manufacture of a simple version of a folding knife, you will need the simplest tools at hand. Special attention should be paid to the choice of material for the handle, since it must be not only reliable and durable, but also convenient to use. That is, it is necessary to think over the shape of the handle correctly so that it is securely fixed in the hand and does not slip out. Having decided on the most convenient form of the handle, you need to choose the material from which it will be most convenient to perform it.

Making a folding knife can be done using handle materials such as hard wood, impact-resistant plastic or metal. And, of course, when planning the independent production of a knife, you need to think about the mechanism for folding it. Moreover, the mechanisms of the knife must be treated with extreme caution and everything must be thought out for the smallest details, since an incorrectly executed mechanism can cause injury during the use of the knife. Before starting work on the manufacture of a folding knife, you need to make sure that all the necessary materials are prepared.

folding knife mockup

So, if a person is interested in a question, how to assemble a folding knife, then it is possible to do this even without special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with the manufacture of a knife, is to sketch the future fixture on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. The best option for cutting a template for a future knife blade is cardboard, since it is more durable than paper. Moreover, all the components of the future knife can be cut out of cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and the handle with a screw and nut, for this you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axis. This approach will help to understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the manufactured fixture will close.

In addition, the execution of a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly fit the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for comfortable and practical use of the knife. You can find out how the supporting part of the heel should look like by viewing folding knife do it yourself video. The video will help make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle, an angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After that, it is necessary to sketch a linear knife lock, as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:

• to install the pivot pin;
• for mounting a corkscrew pin;
• the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.

It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements that perform such a function in this knife design. That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper, it will become an additional retainer for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball retainer, since the functioning of the entire knife lock depends on it.

Having marked the location of the ball retainer on the cardboard mock-up of the blade and the locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with the folding of the knife. After that, it is necessary to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads and place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the mounts.

How to make a folding knife with your own hands

After the cardboard layout of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin to manufacture the device itself. At this stage, material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already mentioned, stainless steel is considered the best material for making a knife blade, since it will not rust even if moisture gets inside the fold.

For drilling holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills. It is very important to drill at low speeds, while applying little effort. If you approach the process of drilling holes in the workpiece irresponsibly, then you can simply erase the drills without achieving the desired result. In order to prevent the steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.

As for the dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. When processing titanium and giving it the desired shape, it is also recommended to work at low speed grinders, you can even use a hand saw for metal.

In order to make a folding knife, the next thing to do is cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. In the intended place of the end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with diameters of not more than 2.5 millimeters, there should be 3-4 such holes. After making holes, they need to be connected and a hacksaw blade should be brought there. The next step will be sawing the stopper line, but when performing this procedure, it is necessary to leave a small margin, which is removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.

As for the bottom die, it often has the same dimensions as the top one, but there is one difference: in the bottom die, you need to make a special recess, under the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom plates is the diameter of the screw hole. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the screw diameter. After all the details have been cut out and all the holes have been drilled, it is necessary to make or pick up two small washers. Washers made of bronze or fluoroplast are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing, and are attached to the axis of rotation of the knife.

The next step in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. You need to do this in turn:

• insert the axle into the lower die;
• put a locking pin;
• install the washer;
• put the blade and assemble the knife together.

If any inaccuracies arose during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not match, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, it is necessary to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe corkscrew spring, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 mm, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. The average size of a bearing ball is 1.5-2 mm. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vise, while it should protrude to the surface by about half a millimeter.

After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge, for this it is enough to close and open the knife several times. After that, a trace will remain on the knife blade, stepping back from the edge of the trace 0.3 millimeters, it is necessary to make a small hole, into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and test the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the fixture without the top die. If everything works properly, you can fully assemble the knife and check its operation already in the folded state.

That's all the knife is ready. As it becomes clear to do do-it-yourself folding automatic knife it may take a little time and patience.

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Folding knife with your own hands. How to make a folding knife with your own hands. Folding knife do-it-yourself drawings. Friction folding knife. Author sdpskov. Hello everyone, I present to your attention photos of the phased production of a friction-type folding knife. It is difficult to call this a master class or a tutorial, much has been missed. Friction folding knives are common in countries where lockable knives are prohibited. Knives of this type are widely used by European knifemakers.

A true gourmet journey in the home country of Meissel: portraits and recipes of 25 Michelin chefs from Savoy, Haute-Savoie, Piedmont and the country of Nice, including fascinating anecdotes about the history of Savoy gastronomy by Annie Victor and illustrated photographs by Anthony Cottarela. There you will learn about the Savoy family and family, as well as modifications to production processes and the technical and commercial development of the brand. The visit ends with a film made at the seminars describing the current production processes.

With a foreword by Pavel Bokus and Michel Dejoe, the tale unfolds through the revelations of Maurice and Denis Meisel and interviews with company employees. The folding knife is one of the most common tools in America. Go to any store, sporting goods store, or outfitter in the country and you'll find several to choose from.

If, like me, we do not know how to use Coral, we draw with our hands for a long and tedious time. cut out of cardboard - fold - lay out

The friction clutch has a characteristic feature - a long tail protruding beyond the dimensions of the handle when folded, the principle of operation of such a knife is simple, in the knife frame there is a locking pin against which the tail of the blade rests in the unfolded state, and a special recess in the blade, in the folded state, so that the edge of the blade does not touched the inside of the frame. well then, to the point:

With folding knives readily available and legal to carry in more places than a handgun, it's no surprise that more people are choosing a folding knife as their primary self-defense tool or to supplement their usual concealed carry. But despite the wide range of folding knives available, not all blades are created equal. There are some outstanding records on the folder market, but also flooded with knives that are cheap, tricks, or just not good for defensive use.

Can it be opened with one hand?

If you're considering adding a folding knife to your self defense options, these are four things you need to look out for. You need a knife that can be opened with one hand. If you are fighting in the clinch, blocking a strike, holding a child, or otherwise unable to use both hands, you will only have one hand free to access and open the knife. And even if you're using the knife in a non-defensive environment, you may need to open it with one hand.

Blade making requires a separate master class. Axis and sliding washers from an unknown Chinese fold.

we cut them out with a grinder, transfer the centers of all the holes from the drawing to the blade, and drill them, pressing the blade to the die, we drill holes through the blade, first in one, and then through one into the other.

Does it lock with a secure locking mechanism?

The blade should lock open, without wobbling in any direction. You cannot accidentally close the knife. If you need to use your jackknife to protect yourself, adrenaline will pump you up. You and your attacker will both move and fight. When a knife is used, tremendous forces will be applied to the blade. If your locking mechanism can't handle this, you may end up with the blade closed or finger-locked.

Is blade quality steel that will have a sharp edge and is designed for penetration. The purpose of a defensive folding knife is to cut and strike. Unless your blade is heavily reliant on hard use, it won't make the cuts you need when it counts. A deeper cut is more likely to disable an attacker, and a sharper blade cuts the deepest. It is also very important that the blade profile is conducive to penetration. When your attacker is wearing heavy, thick, or even just loose clothing, thrusting can be effective and cutting becomes less reliable.

we cut a groove between the locking holes, in my case with a grinder, ideally with a milling cutter

pretending to collect once

from thick stainless steel (5mm) we cut out a spacer in the back of the handle

Is it legal to practice in areas you frequent?

Knife laws vary widely from state to state and even city to city. In fact, if you're carrying a self-defense folding knife, it might be because the fixed blade is illegal to carry in your area. There are rules about length, type, and deployment mechanisms. Some of them may be vague or vague, and many of them seem unfair. Our respect for the law is what separates us from criminals, even if we admit that some laws are stupid or arbitrary and do not deserve such respect.

we carefully estimate the whole thing many times, spit, swear

we fix the spacer in the dies, drill, insert the pins, rivet, grind the tops of the heads flush

Make sure your knife is legal. There are many other desirable qualities in a knife. For example, you need a way to carry knives that are consistently geared towards quick access. You also want a grip that doesn't get slick when wet, whether it's sweat, blood, or water. While these things are important, they didn't make the list because they can often be dealt with after that fact. The clip is good, but straps and pocket holsters can solve the problem of carrying. The smooth handle can often be cut or dressed with a handle.

But if the knife doesn't open with one hand, it won't stay open when used hard, and won't stay sharp or penetrate a layer of clothing, this is a problem that can't be fixed. If you've ever bought a daily carry pocket knife, you'd know there are a myriad of options to choose from. Trying to understand the many types of knives and their subtle differences can be overwhelming. Of the many factors to consider when choosing something personal like a knife, its locking mechanism is one of the most important.

we make descents on the blade roughly, hardening - tempering, we remove the descents to zero + on a rhombus from above, rough assembly

grinding by hand, etching. The etching process is also missed, because it must be done separately by MK.

finally we tighten the axial screw with fixation on cyanoacrylate, we cut it roughly with a margin of lining, we drill recesses for the axle heads.

You need to know what type of lock, if any, you should have depending on your needs and preferences before investing in a quality knife.

Linear locks are one of the most common mechanisms found on folding knives. A characteristic component of this mechanism is the side spring bars, located on the same side as the sharp edge of the blade, "lining" the inside of the handle. When the knife is closed, the spring bar is held under tension.

we glue one die, through the frame we drill holes in the die for the foot pin, and the pins in the butt plate, similarly glue the second die and through the first we drill in the right places, glue the pins, and roughly grind.

When it is fully open, this tension slides down the shaft inward to make contact with the butt of the blade, holding it in place and not closing it. To disengage the liner detent, you must use your thumb to push the spring bar "down" so that it removes contact with the butt of the blade. This allows you to use your index finger to push the blade just enough to hold the bar so you get your thumb out of the way of the blade and then continue to close the knife safely.

Line locks are useful in that they allow the knife to have two true sides of the handle, as opposed to a frame. You can close the knife with one hand without a switch, perfect for when you need both hands at work. You will find liner locks on both entry and high knives. This is the type of lock that both beginners and enthusiasts like.

glue the locking pin, cut it off and already grind the lining closer to the desired shape

in intimate places where you can’t clean it with a grinder (for example), we clean it with a dremel.

If you will be using the knife for heavy tasks, you should be aware that liner locks are usually not as secure as other blocking systems. They are still quite strong, but since they are usually made from a thinner piece of metal, they are more prone to wear, such as a rigid frame.

Think of a frame lock as a larger version of a liner lock. They are very similar to liner locking mechanisms, except that the inner spring band moves into place, it's part of the handle itself. Frame lock knives tend to be stronger than liner locks as the piece of metal that slides into place is more substantial than the metal liner. Due to their similarity to liner locks, closing a frame lock knife is almost the same - push down on the spring bar so it no longer blocks the butt of the blade, remove your thumb from the path, and then fold the knife closed.

you can mat all metal elements, although this is already superfluous

As you can see, at the beginning of the process, I had an axial screw from a Chinese folding, but during the manufacturing process I lost it, and I had to quickly make it out of anything. I did not remove this. It is better to make the etching process a separate MK, because there are many nuances that are important. In general, I missed a lot, there were not enough hands. The article is taken from the original source http://forum.zadi.ru/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=11774 Here are some pictures of the finished knife.

This type of locking system puts most of the metal against the blade, providing a strong lock for piercing, cutting, slicing and other heavy duty tasks. Lock-locks are seen in many mid to high range knives, typically made of titanium. In the example shown here, the stainless steel insert interacts with the blade as it requires longer wear than titanium and stabilizes the stem so you don't loosen it by pushing too far. Not only do they add a unique look to the knife, but they are also easily operated with one hand.

Manufacturing should begin directly with the blade. First of all, we mark the place for the axial hole. We drill it and, already guided by it, we make further marking of the blade. If you do the opposite and mark and cut the blade along the contour, and only then drill a hole, then during the drilling process, especially in hardened workpieces, the drill can lead to the side and all dimensions will “float away”.

It's easy to use on one side, but also important, it's fully reversible. Here's how it works: The lock consists of a spring-tensioned rod that slides back and forth along a track cut into knife handles. To close the knife, you will pull the bar towards the back of the knife using the thumb pins and fold the blade.

Usually these knives require two hands to open and close safely. They consist of a spring bar and a specially shaped blade. To open the knife, you pull on the blade to overcome spring pressure, snapping the blade into place. To close it, make sure your fingers are out of the way of the sharp edge and lean back. Friction folders are similar, except they don't have a spring bar. Instead, the knife blade is held in place simply by friction between the blade steel and the weights of the knife.

Transferring the contours of the blade to the workpiece, we begin to make the blade. We grind with the help of a grinder and emery along the contour. For the convenience of holding the blade in the process of removing the descents, the blade itself is not cut off from the workpiece yet and the heel of the blade is not formed.

Various tools can be used to remove slopes: grinders, emery, flat grinders, grinders. I do a rough turning of the slopes on emery and a fine one on a flat grinder.

One of the main advantages of these types of knives is their legality. They are also a pleasure to carry because they are simple and easy to use. But it's worth mentioning that these knives don't have a true lock, so they're not the best for heavy duty tasks.

By now, you should be more familiar with your options in order to better choose a knife worthy of your pocket. Do you have a favorite lock type to recommend? Words and Images by Ed Jelly and Bernard Capulong. If you've seen pictures of what people carry every day, you might be wondering, "Why do so many people carry a pocketknife?" The answer is different for everyone, but it all comes back to the idea that a handy pocket knife is an indispensable tool.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of side dies.

Next, we drill a hole in the dies for the pin of the blade stopper, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and proceed to cut it.

Having a knife can also potentially save your life in an emergency or survival situation if you spend time outdoors. However, knives can be limited depending on where you live and what your local laws are, so keep that in mind before deciding which pocket knife you can carry.

The best pocket knife for everyday carry

When choosing the best everyday carry pocket knife, there are many factors to consider: how big the knife is, how it opens, how it locks, how you will carry it, how durable it is, etc. Remember, you will need a knife that is comfortable, built, durable, safe to use, and legal to carry.

Having prepared the ribs in this way, we proceed to their installation on the dies. The methods are different: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering, you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in a burner flame. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering points. It is cleaned with sandpaper, a file. After stripping, we coat the soldering points with acid, take, on a well-heated soldering iron, a piece of solder and tin the surface. In the process of tinning, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps left and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder. High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After tinning, rinse the parts well in water with soda, removing acid residues. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vise and begin to warm up with a burner from different sides. To reduce heat loss, it is necessary to lay a thermally insulating material under the vise jaws; fragments of ceramic tiles are well suited. As it warms up, we tighten the vise until droplets of solder come out between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

Soldering the right tack has some peculiarities: first, we solder the axis of the knife into the die, and then solder the trap, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the axis of diameter.

A folding knife is a great tool in a man's pocket and not only. You should definitely take it with you, going on a hike or just to nature. With the help of a knife, you can not only cut sausage or open beer, but also protect yourself from enemies. And more often the enemy is not a person, but an animal, for example, a dog or even a fox. In this tutorial, we will look at how to make a good simple DIY folding knife.

To make a knife, the author used a rather professional set of tools, he needed a jigsaw and other tools. But you should not despair, if you have skillful hands, such a knife can be easily made with ordinary hand tools. The fixing device of the knife is also simple, all parts are made by hand. So let's get started.

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- high carbon steel (which can be hardened);
- pins (you can steel or brass);
- material for overlays (wood, plastic and so on at will);
- epoxy adhesive;
- spring rod (for making a spring).

List of tools:
- ;
- drilling machine or drill;
- clamps;
- Bulgarian;
- vice;
- paper, pencil, scissors for making a template;
- sandpaper;
- furnace, oil for hardening.

Knife making process:

Step one. Sample
First of all, the author makes a template, including all internal details. For those who have already made a knife at least once, it will not be difficult to make such a template. You need to think over the locking mechanism, it is made in the form of a lever with a hook.

Step two. Cut out blanks
The author cuts all the details of the knife from sheet steel. The locking mechanism consists of two parts, one part holds the spring, and the second is a lever with a hook that holds the blade.

To make a handle, you will need to carve two identical parts. All details, including the blade, are cut out by the author using a grinder. In hard-to-reach places where the grinder cannot crawl, we make a lot of transverse cuts, and then gradually cut them out.

For the manufacture of the blade, you will need steel with a high carbon content, in America it is customary to use steel 1050, in Russia steel 65X13 can be considered the most common grade of steel for making knives. Good steel, which can be hardened, is widely used in the manufacture of tools. You can also use steel from an old cutting disc.

When you cut out the blanks for making the handle, assemble them on pins or simply on bolts. Now sand the product along the contour, as a result you will get two identical parts.

Step three. Grinding
We proceed to finer processing of blanks, namely, grinding. This is where a belt sander comes in handy. We bring the details to the ideal, and in the end we go through manually with a file where we could not get close to the machine.

Using a grinder, you also need to remove the bevels on the blade. The author attaches the blade to a special fixture and gets to work. The main criterion here is the symmetry of the bevels.

At the end, the author processes the details manually using sandpaper. The next step for us will be hardening, before that, do not forget to drill all the necessary holes in the workpieces, since then it will be problematic to do this.

Step four. Tempering the blade
In order for your knife to keep sharpening for a long time, the blade must be hardened. Since our blade is small in size, it can easily be heated to the desired temperature with a burner, as the author did. Calim the metal until the steel is no longer attracted by the magnet. If we approach this matter more professionally, then for each steel there is a clear heating temperature.

When the steel is hot, dip the workpiece into the oil. Waste oil from a car, as well as vegetable oil, is quite suitable. After cooling the workpiece, go through the metal with a torch to burn the oil. Now the steel can be checked, if it is not taken with a file, then the hardening was successful.

The next step in hardening is necessarily metal tempering, otherwise the steel will be very brittle. For holidays, a household stove is suitable. Place the blade in it and heat it for about an hour at a temperature of 200-250 degrees Celsius. Then let the oven cool down with the knife inside. Vacation done! Now the steel will spring, and the blade will not break under high load.

Step five. We proceed to the assembly of the knife
After hardening, polish the blade to a shine, as after heat treatment it will change color. Now the knife can be collected. Lubricate all internal parts with engine oil so that the knife does not rust from the inside. Now we collect everything on the pins. Glue the pads with epoxy glue.

Clamp the handle well with a few clamps and let the glue dry completely. Epoxy usually takes about a day to dry.

When the glue is completely dry, we make the final polishing. First, the product is processed on a grinder, and then manually, using sandpaper. At the end, we bring the handle to perfect smoothness with fine sandpaper.

A variety of types of knives does not dry out the topic of their manufacture on their own. A knife is an ideal assistant not only in the household, but also in hunting, fishing and other camping conditions. Some people probably need a knife for tough self-defense. But it is better to still try to avoid using a knife as a weapon of self-defense. There are less dangerous to human life and more legal self-defense items, so to speak. But life is life and you never know when, how and with what it will have to be protected. Camping and hunting knives are convenient to carry in a sheath, but in urban conditions, a cleaver on a belt will look pretty wild and will naturally attract the close attention of law enforcement agencies. Therefore, there are folding knives that are convenient to carry in a trouser pocket. We are going to make this today.

Naturally, it will be much easier to buy a folding knife, but people come to this site who do not pursue simplicity, but try to do everything with their own hands. The article is introductory and is aimed at readers who already have an idea about the manufacture of knives, so the description is given quite briefly; but from the photographs you can understand almost every step of the work.

To make a folding knife, we need a titanium plate, although you can use stainless steel or some other good steel. Naturally, it all starts with the manufacture of a template, the shape of which you then transfer to a steel strip.

To begin with, we will make the liners of the handle of the folding knife. We outline the shape of the liner on a titanium plate and cut it out using any tool available to you. Next, we do a rough processing of the liner, grinding off excess metal on emery and files. Making the second liner. To do this, we apply the finished liner to a strip of metal and drill through two holes. We cut threads into them, fasten the liners with screws without a cap and cut out the second liner, using the first one as a template. Next, we process the paired liners on sandpaper and files, approaching as close as possible to the contour line of the liner.

It was the turn of the manufacture of the blade of the folding knife and the back of the handle. We act in exactly the same way: templates, transfer to a titanium strip, sawing and processing on emery.

We drill holes in the liners for attaching the back of the knife handle. We assemble the knife and look where there are inconsistencies, cracks. If necessary, we refine these places, with files, achieving the perfect combination of all parts of the folding knife.

We dress the second liner and drill additional holes for attaching the back of the knife. You can fasten the parts of the knife handle with the help of special screws, having previously cut the threads in the holes with a tap. The screws are convenient because, if necessary, the knife can be easily disassembled and any modification can be performed. We flare all the holes for the screws with a larger drill so that the screw head does not stick out above the surface of the liner.

Next, we cut out the two upper and two lower metal lining of the knife handle. Glue them to the liners with superglue. Now we drill holes for the screws through the liners into the metal lining. The holes in the overlays should not be through. Now we put the knife in a bath of acetone to dissolve the superglue.

We chamfer the blind holes of the metal lining of the folding knife and cut the threads into them. We fasten the lining to the liners with screws. We customize the lining, under the shape of the liners, grinding off excess metal on the emery.Next, we make the final grinding of the knife handle.

From the inside, on the front metal plates, we drill recesses under the axis of the blade with a drill sharpened at an obtuse angle. For the axis, we grind the support screws on a lathe. We cut the thread with a die.In the back of the handle we cut out a cone-shaped (dovetail) groove for the leaf spring.

All metal parts of the folding knife are hardened using a homemade forge or gas burner.We will make the middle part of the overlays from any available material: wood, bone, plastic, plexiglass, textolite, etc.

We cut and grind the plate, adjusting its shape. The work requires precision, so adjust the middle lining slowly and periodically trying it on. After that, we drill blind holes in the liners for attaching a wooden lining. And cut out L-shaped slots.

All that's left is the lock. We drill holes for the lock at each end of the liner. We connect them with a slit. Then we make a transverse cut and get an L-shaped slot, which forms a blocking plate. We harden it with a gas burner and bend it to the side by three, four millimeters.

We drill a hole in the corner of the lock plate and press a metal ball into it. The back of this locking ball is ground flush with the spring plane.We sharpen the axis screw, making it a rectangular shape. We mill the slot for the screw in the liner body.We sharpen the fin of the back of the knife handle on both sides. We grind the metal parts of the handles. We make bevels on the blade of a folding knife.

Collecting a knife. But the axis is put on a thin washer, a blade, another washer. Then the second liner is put on. We insert the middle pads, snapping them into the L-shaped holes. We tighten the screws with a flat special wrench.

How to make or make your own folding knife at home. Detailed diagrams, drawings and step-by-step production of do-it-yourself homemade folding knives

How to make or make your own folding knife at home. Let's look at the basic diagrams, drawings and the phased manufacture of folding knives with our own hands.

The modern "linear" lock was invented by Michael Walker in 1981. The most important thing that Michael did was to create an independent blade fixation system with only one spring.

The leaf spring of the lock not only blocks the blade in the open position, but also ensures its secure fixation in the closed position. In addition, such a lock allows you to open and close the knife with one hand. This invention in the full sense of the word changed the face of the modern folding knife. Honor to him for this and praise.

Make a sketch of the future design on paper or in some kind of graphic editor. After that, I recommend cutting out the blade and handle templates from cardboard, cutting a hole for the axle and fastening the knife model with a screw and nut. Now you can check how the knife closes and opens.

Choose a location for the locking pin and check if the heel of the blade catches when it is folded. Choose the shape of the heel of the blade. This part is very important for the normal functioning of the knife, it should be calculated with special care. Please note that the supporting part of the heel, which will be in contact with the lock plate, must have a 7-9 ° bevel of the strand, necessary to "sample" possible play.

At the heart of the work of the linear lock are three points that form a triangle - the strongest figure in nature. Here are these three points: the pivot pin, locking pin and the contact area of ​​​​the support planes of the heel of the blade and the stopper (pressure plate). The transmission of the compressive force from the spring selects the longitudinal play and brings the entire system into a rigid stressed state.

In addition to the force of the lateral pressure of the stopper itself, there are no elements in the design of the lock that would fix the blade in the closed position. For this reason, a small hardened steel ball from the bearing is additionally mounted in the stopper, which is the blade lock in the closed position.

Entering the socket of a spherical shape on the heel of the blade, this kind of latch, using the force of the curved plate, keeps the blade in the closed position from spontaneous opening. The correct location of this ball detent is very important for the functioning of the lock.

Mark this place on the layout of the blade and the retaining spring and check if the ball does not “pop out” beyond the dimensions of the blade when folded.
Locate the screws holding the plates together. Keep in mind the diameter of the fastener heads you will be using to assemble the knife. Do not position the holes too close to the edge of the handle. A spacer can be placed between the dies, or tubular racks can be placed - it's up to you.

Well, the general geometry of the blade and dies is determined. It's time to move on to making a knife. First of all, choose materials.

For the blade, stainless steel is preferred, because. when moisture gets inside the warehouse, it is not so easy to remove moisture. Therefore, if there is something to rust, it will rust. If there is a thermist who is able to work with high-carbon alloy stainless steels, then you are very lucky in life (at the level of happiness).

If not, then you will have to work on hardened material, and this is not easy. For drilling holes in hardened metal, I use ceramic and glass drills with an arrow-shaped tip. It is necessary to work hard, at low speeds, but carefully. You can chip the drill. And, of course, monitor the heating of the part. Be sure to refrigerate often, otherwise it will be released. Give the desired shape to the blade. I have used blades from Tramontina Professional Master knives several times. They are slightly more expensive than the usual kitchenware of this company, but they are made of Sandvik 12C27 or 1.4110 from Krupa. It's already steel.

For dies, I recommend titanium, because with a small thickness it is strong enough and has sufficient rigidity and springy properties. In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not rust at all. There are some peculiarities in the processing of titanium. Titanium should be handled at low speeds. For example, I could not cut a 4 mm plate with a grinder, and manually with a hacksaw - easily, however, for a long time. The thread in titanium must be cut slowly, with oil, every 0.5-1 turn back.

Detailed video on how to make a folding knife:

To cut out the contour of the retaining spring in the lower die, at the place of its intended end, I drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, connect them, put a hacksaw blade there - and forward, slowly, almost to the hole for the axle (in this place I also recommend drilling a small technological hole for a clear end of the cut). It remains only to saw through the line of the stopper itself. Here it is necessary that there is a margin, which is then removed when the lock is "tuned".

The second, upper, die has exactly the same dimensions (as a rule) as the lower one, but it must have a recess for a hole for opening the knife.

All mating holes should be drilled in batches. Start with the axle holes. Do not forget that the diameter of the holes for the fastening screws in the bottom die must be for the thread, and in the top one for the screw diameter.

So, everything is cut and drilled. Choose, or make your own, two washers made of fluoroplastic or bronze, which will be used as a bearing on the axis of rotation (folding) of the knife.

Insert the axle into the lower die, put the locking pin, washer, blade, and fold the future knife. If something does not fit - adjust to the size in place. This must be done very carefully and carefully. Well, everything fits together!
On the retaining spring of the lower die, mark the place for the ball and in this place drill a hole with a diameter 0.1-0.2 mm smaller than the diameter of the ball. I use balls with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 mm, from the bearing. Then, in a vise (placing a piece of hardened metal under the ball, otherwise it will “fit” into the jaws of the vise), press the ball into the locking plate. The ball should protrude outward by about 0.5 mm (the thickness of the washer on the axis between the blade and the die).

Next, using a marker, blacken the place of the heel of the blade where the ball will move and fold / unfold the knife several times. A clear mark from the ball will be visible on the blade. Stepping back from the place where it (the trace) ends 0.3 -0.5 mm, drill a hole into which the ball will enter in the folded position of the knife. Carefully bend the plate in the desired direction.

Assemble the knife without the top die and adjust the lock (you have a stopper cut out with a margin). Do it very carefully (remember Zhvanetsky). As soon as the lock "hooks" - stop. Assemble the knife completely, with the top die and try to fold / unfold it several times, apply force (as if cutting something). Do this several times. And postpone everything until tomorrow.

Sleep with the thought that you made a knife. Tomorrow there will definitely be something to finish. Bring the lock "to condition". The locking plate should not reach the upper end of the cut of the heel of the blade, otherwise it will “fall through” right up to the upper die and jam the lock.

If the spring turned out to be too tight (depending on the thickness and brand of the material used), it is necessary to cut a recess in its base so deeply that the pressing force to open the knife is optimal (to each his own - it is selected "according to feelings").

In its 2008 product catalog, Cold Steel announced a new folding knife blade locking system. Simply put, "folding" with a new lock. The new system is called "Tri-Ad Lock", and was developed by designer Andrey Demko.

A brief description of the castle begins with the words "Undoubtedly, Cold Steel makes the safest, strongest, rocker-lock folders on the planet!" Well, advertising is advertising and there is, as they say, “you can’t praise yourself ...”

But after two years, we are convinced that this is approximately the case. As there are "convinced heretics" who consider Tri-Ad to be cheap marketing, and even exploiting the glorious back-lock construction. Let's (before moving on to torture and executions) try to achieve renunciation, that is, to figure it out.

So - "back lock". Let's figure out how it works, and why the blade, unfolded and fixed by a rocker arm, sways under load - “backlash”, in the vertical plane (blade plane). The backlash of these locks is the talk of the town, and there is hardly a knife maker who does not know about it.

Fig.1 Play in the “back lock”, knife Ultimate Hunter (CS).

This drawback is due to the presence of a gap K, the amount of backlash depends on its size. The blade is fixed in the working position with a rocker spike that goes into the groove on the heel of the blade. The closure of the circuit, as can be seen from Figure 1, is carried out along the front (point A) and lower (point B) working surfaces of the groove and rocker. These two surfaces, plus the axis of the blade, provide the three points of support needed to balance the blade. The rigidity of the circuit depends on the rocker spring (force Fpr). With a working load on the blade (cutting force Fp), a torque occurs that transmits pressure to both working surfaces of the rocker (points A, B).

In the case of well-manufactured parts, there are no gaps and no backlash occurs (in practice, backlash is often encountered even under workload, it depends on the manner in which the rocker arm is made by a particular manufacturer). With a folding load (force Fc), the torque transfers pressure only to the lower working surface of the rocker, the blade loses its fulcrum A, and turns through a certain angle until it again receives the third point C, but already on the rear surface of the rocker spike. When the load is removed, the blade will return to its working position under the action of the rocker spring.

This backlash is a design feature. It is technically impossible to implement the “back lock” scheme without a gap at all.

Now consider "Tri-Ad Lock".

Fig. 2 Knife with Tri-Ad Lock, unfolded and folded. Based on an illustration from the CS catalog for 2008.

1 - blade; 2 - dies; 3 - axis of the blade; 4 - rocker; 5 - spring support; 6 - spring; 7 - the axis of the rocker; 8 - locking pin.

As you can see from Figure 2, new elements have been introduced into the traditional “back lock” scheme (and I would say that only an idea remains from the back lock).

First, a locking pin (8) has been added, due to which the blade and rocker receive fixed points of support along the front working surfaces, instead of floating (point A) in the “back lock” scheme;

second, the hole of the axis of the rocker is oval, and the axis itself is round, respectively, the rocker has the ability to move back and forth;

third, there is only one plane along which the rocker is in contact with the blade, and has a small angle "a", as if tucked inward;

fourth, a sufficiently large gap "d", between the rocker spike and the "bottom" of the groove.

Fig. 3 From top to bottom, the trigger sequence of the Tri-Ad Lock.

In figure 3, I tried to "in dynamics" depict the final phase of the knife unfolding. Let's follow the interaction of structural elements.

As soon as the rocker spike slides off the cylindrical surface of the heel of the blade, it enters the groove and turns (or, let's say, can turn) the blade into working position. Under the action of the rocker spring, the spike, falling into place, selects all available gaps. This is possible because it has a wedge shape (the wedge is formed by a rear, beveled wall and an arcuate front working surface). Plus to it, - a floating support of an axis of a yoke. Pushed by a spring, it can move forward or backward until it reaches an optimal, equilibrium state. Pay attention to how the gap changes in the floating support of the rocker axis (Fig. 3).

As can be seen from the figure, all elements of the circuit are closed without gaps - accordingly, there is nowhere for backlash to come from. Moreover, points A, B, C, along which the blade and rocker are in contact, do not open from the loads on the blade. Moreover, this backlash-selecting scheme will remain operational even when workings appear on the parts. The rocker will simply drop a little lower, the gap d is intended for this (see Fig. 2).

Fig. 4 The reaction of the Tri-Ad Lock to loads.

How will the Tri-Ad Lock scheme react to loads? Very simply, take a look at Figure 4. At work load (Fp), the pressure is mostly taken up by the fixed locking pin (point A) and transferred to the stick rams. When folding (Fс) - with the same locking pin, but already through the rocker spike (point B). And here the very angle "a" (see Fig. 2) plays a positive role, thanks to which the blade does not push the rocker up, but presses it more strongly against the locking pin.

Fig.5, Fig.6 Cold Steel Rajah II knife lock operation.

All of the above and allows us to say that it is "Tri-Ad Lock" that is the next stage in the evolution of "back lock".

Choosing a knife, today more and more preference is given to a folding knife. It is understandable. If there is a need to always have a knife with you, then a folding knife is incomparably more convenient in everyday life.

Having folded it almost in half, you can not be afraid that the knife will cut the bag, pocket, jacket or any other item in which it will be located. Nevertheless, every knife lover or knife lover is well aware that folding knives are inferior in strength to their clumsy counterparts precisely because of the locking joints. The lock in the folding knife is the weak point and the weakest link. Therefore, when you choose a folding knife, you should pay attention not only to the blade of the blade, but also to the design of the lock.

The simplest check of the reliability of the lock

We want to offer you the easiest test to check the strength of the lock mechanism before you make the final decision to buy a knife.

Take the open knife in your hand and tap the butt against the palm of your hand. At the same time, try to keep your fingers in such a way that the blade of the blade does not hurt your fingers when the knife is closed sharply. If, with a fairly strong tapping, the knife did not work out, then the lock passed the test.

As part of this article, we want to tell you about what types of locks are found in most of the most popular knife manufacturers.

Types of castles

The basis of this lock is a flat spring, which is a continuation of the liner. The mechanism of the lock is that the spring, when opening the knife, rests against the shank of the blade. When choosing a knife with this locking design, always pay attention to how deep the spring goes into the shank. Ideally, it should go to a distance that is somewhat greater than the thickness of the spring itself.

This version of the lock is quite common and has proven itself in everyday use.

Framelock (integral lock, monolock)

The device of this lock is similar to the design of the Liner lock. Only in this modification, the knife handle is the locking plate. The body of the handle is made of metal, which enhances the strength of the entire structure. In addition, holding the knife by hand, there is an additional fixation of the plate.

back lock

Here, the blade shank is fixed on the butt side with the help of a spring-loaded rocker arm. The complexity of such a lock lies in the fact that during its manufacture it is required to accurately fit the slot on the shank and part of the engaging rocker arm. Otherwise, the rocker may not fit into the shank enough, and the blade will not be fixed well. Or, conversely, provided that the rocker will freely enter the shank, the blade will stagger. A small gap is still provided for by the design itself, but it must be ideal.

A more advanced design is a modified model of such a lock, which was called the Tri-Ad Lock. The Cold Steel company, which acted as the progenitor of this type of lock, made fundamental changes to its design. A locking pin was added, which began to take on the entire load under mechanical action. The rocker engagement and the groove in the shank changed their configuration, and the rocker axis became oval. All innovations qualitatively affected the strength of the product as a whole. In this case, the rocker is designed in such a way that as the contacting parts of the knife wear out, it will change its position accordingly. As a result, the gap will retain its dimensions.

compression lock

Combines elements of Back lock and Liner lock. The difference in design is that in Liner lock the spring is pressed against the shank from behind, while in Compression lock it is pressed from above. Another positive point is that the spring comes on one side of the shank, and the other side is pressed against the locking pin. Such a lock mechanism makes the knife completely safe, since, when closing, the blade of the blade can in no way touch the fingers.

Levitator lock

Such a lock device can only be used in knives with a metal handle. A special notch (overlay) in the form of a spring plate is carved on the handle. When this plate is pressed, the rod in the shank is displaced and the blade is released. Knives with locks of this design are produced by Benchmade.

Viroblock (Coupling lock)

One of the most common variations of locks, in particular, is found in TM Opinel knives. The blade is fixed due to the presence of a metal swivel sleeve with a longitudinal slit. With the help of the clutch, the blade is blocked. When the clutch is in the extreme position, it prevents the blade from opening. And when the knife is open, it is enough to turn the clutch in any direction to block the knife from closing.

AXIS, Arc lock, Rolling lock, Ultra Lock (Pin locks)

Benchmade has patented the AXIS locking device. The lock mechanism is based on a spindle-shaped pin, with which the blade is fixed both in the closed and in the open position, which makes knives with such locks completely safe, since the risk of accidental closing of the blade is excluded. Among the shortcomings, one can name only dirt, which can accumulate in the grooves on the shank.

Another type of lock from the same company, Rolling lock, also contains a pin at the heart of its mechanism. Only it is completely immersed in the knife handle, and is driven by an L-shaped lever.

Arc lock - this type of locks and knives are manufactured by SOG. The lock mechanism is largely identical to the AXIS design. The only difference is that the pin has an additional attachment inside the knife handle. This fastening is carried out on a rocking rocker. This nuance in the design of the lock allowed the company to patent their invention.

Ultra Lock is manufactured by Cold Steel. There is a U-shaped groove in the blade shank. The pin moves along this groove. The blade is fixed with the help of a locking rod, which blocks, if necessary, both the opening and closing of the blade.

Button lock, Axial lock

Such a lock is used mainly in automatic knives. When the button is pressed, the pin, in the form of a spring-loaded button of variable diameter, moves to the plane of the blade, resulting in the release of the blade. It also fixes the blade when opening and closing.

Axial lock is another type of button knife. But the mechanism is rather unusual. Opening and closing a knife with a lock of this type occurs if you press the axis of the knife and turn it slightly with your thumb. Such a mechanism works due to the fact that there are special protrusions on the axis, which include grooves on the blade and in the handle.

This device is characterized by the presence of a movable peg on the knife blade. At the moment of opening, this peg engages with the recess located in the front of the handle and blocks the blade. For the reverse action, the peg is displaced towards the tip. Users of such a mechanism will need to learn some dexterity, but the blade opens very quickly, and the lock is considered quite strong. Such locks are found in the line of Kershaw knife models.

Ram safe lock, Bolt lock

As an example of a Ram safe lock, look at the Cold Steel Pocket Bushman knives. In the device of the lock you will see a combination of solidity and simplicity. In the technological design of the knife, a crossbar (rod) is used, with which the blade shank is fixed. The bolt moves along the butt line (parallel). On the opposite side of the blade, the crossbar is pressed by an elastic spiral spring. The opening of the knife is carried out by pulling the lanyard, that is, both hands are required to open, as well as to close the knife. But the castle is practical and durable.

Bolt lock - has a similar device. It differs only in that a peg is attached to the crossbar, which is displayed on the side of the handle. As for the principle of operation, here we can draw an analogy with pin locks.

Ratchets lock (Gear lock)

The ratchet lock, or cogwheel lock, is found in South African okapi designs, but is most commonly seen in Spanish Navajo knives, as well as the modern Cold Steel Kudu. The rounded part of the shank has the appearance of a comb, the teeth of which have straight or slightly curved corners. The overlay plate is provided with a slot for one of these teeth. With the help of the plate, the knife is closed. When the knife is opened, the plate extends, and then all the teeth of the gear can pass through it. When it is necessary to close the knife, the locking plate is manually lifted, for example by the ring.

Balisong

As such, there is basically no lock in this knife device. Blade protection technology is based on the fact that the blade, when folded, is simply closed by a handle, which consists of two halves. Each of the halves has the ability to turn 180 degrees. Opening both halves of the handle in different directions, the blade is released. Some models may be equipped with a latch that secures the halves of the handles.

A very common type of lock. Often found in budget, tourist models. A flat spring holds the blade in its extreme position by the rounded shank. As such, such a lock does not guarantee rigid fixation, but it also does not allow the blade to suddenly fold.

Friction folder

The simplest device used by peasants in the Middle Ages. Japanese knives with higonokami are also arranged. Straight razors are made according to this principle. The knife device uses friction force, with which the blade is held open, namely, the shank rubs against the handle in the axis area. Opening of a knife happens by means of the lever. In the closed position, this lever protrudes slightly from the handle. You just need to press the lever so that the blade extends, and then you can manually open it completely.

Finally

When choosing a knife, be guided not only by the design of the knife, but also by the metal, workmanship, and the manufacturer. Indeed, often the most complex lock, but made ineptly, will be inferior to the simplest lock, made by a well-known manufacturing company, which guarantees its quality and durability.