How to insulate an iron garage from the outside. Garage interior decoration

Every car owner knows that the garage should be dry and relatively warm. Dampness and temperatures below 5°C can be detrimental to the vehicle. Creating optimal conditions, that is, warming a metal garage, will not only ensure careful storage of the car, but will also allow you to avoid further extra costs for its repair.

As you know, each building must comply with certain standards that determine the most optimal conditions. In fact, warming is a very serious process, since some mistakes made can subsequently lead to various troubles. So, for example, in the winter season, the temperature in your garage should not be too high, otherwise the “greenhouse” conditions will lead to condensation on the car, which, as you know, will lead to rust over time. In addition, during the insulation of the garage, it is recommended to equip it with good ventilation. This will prevent the appearance of moisture in it and the accumulation of carbon monoxide.

Insulating a metal garage with your own hands is a doable task, but be prepared for the fact that it is carried out in several stages. Before starting the process of insulation, it is very important to choose the right insulation, because the quality of your work will depend on it.

Heaters for a metal garage and their types

Many, among other things, are interested in financial side question, while it is better to save not on the quality of the insulation material, but on the quantity. A metal garage can be insulated with classic heaters to prevent conduction and convention, which are the main cause of heat loss.

Classic heaters for a metal garage and their types:

• polymeric;
• fiberglass;
• mineral wool.

Whatever type of insulation you prefer, the main thing is that it has water resistance and fire resistance. As already mentioned, the insulation of the garage is carried out in several stages, which suggests that the process is quite laborious, so it is advisable to choose a heater that is easy to install.

Garage insulation mineral wool. Mineral wool has very high technical specifications. At the same time, this material has one significant drawback - instability to moisture. It is possible to insulate the garage with it, but for this you will need to apply steam and waterproofing, which will provide it reliable protection. It is very important not to forget about the "breathing" gap. Mineral wool is quite expensive.

Metal garage insulation with glass wool. Such thermal insulation will cost a little less than the above option. But besides the fact that glass wool is absolutely not resistant to moisture, it also has the ability to ignite easily. Therefore, if you want your garage to be insulated with this particular material, you should take care of safety measures.

Styrofoam insulation in the garage. Styrofoam is one of polymer types insulating materials. This material has absolute water resistance, its heat-insulating properties are quite high. Among other things, the foam is very easy to install, which is mainly due to its light weight. Styrofoam has a high bacteriological resistance, which means that fungi and microbes are not afraid of it, and you can not be afraid that it can rot. At the same time, this insulation material is distinguished by its rather low cost.

Despite the large number of advantages, do not forget that polystyrene is combustible material, therefore, for these purposes, the PBS-S brand, which incorporates a fire retardant, is most suitable.

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A little about modern heaters

The choice of insulation materials today is very large, in addition to classic materials, you can use modern analogues that have all the necessary qualities.

Penoizol insulation. Penoizol is a liquid foam, so it is waterproof. In addition, this material is fire resistant and durable. At the same time, it costs much less than ordinary foam.

Insulation of the garage with astratek (insulation in liquid form). This material is applied by applying paint. Astratek will reliably insulate your garage for a long time. It has all the necessary qualities and is quite easy to apply.

PPU insulation (polyurethane foam). In order to insulate the garage with this material, you need specially designed equipment. The dense core of polyurethane foam will provide reliable heat retention. Such thermal insulation will last a very long time, but it will cost quite a lot.

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A little about the metal garage and its insulation

Metal garage requires good insulation and protection against the accumulation of condensate, which can lead to the formation of rust. In the event that you decide to insulate the garage with mineral wool, you must also purchase a film that will cover it. In this case, the film should be protected by a hard coating, for example, chipboard, GVL or fiberboard.

Insulating a garage with foam is a fairly simple option. Before proceeding with its installation, it is necessary to prepare the surface. It must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased, after which you can begin to apply the adhesive composition. Very good for this purpose bituminous mastic, you can also use liquid nails. With the help of mastic applied to all surfaces, it is possible to provide additional protection from moisture. Here it should be borne in mind that mastic has bad smell Therefore, it is important that all seams are sealed as high as possible. Besides, hot weather may cause folded sheets of material to come off. In order for the foam to insulate your garage for a long time and reliably, all seams should be processed using silicone sealant. Keep in mind that foam cannot be used in this case.

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Metal garage and the process of its insulation with your own hands

If in order to insulate the garage with your own hands you opted for polystyrene foam, you will need the following basic materials and tools:

• Styrofoam;
• adhesive composition (mastic or liquid nails);
• brush for applying glue;
• notched trowel.

Once you have chosen the insulation material that will provide the optimum temperature in your garage, you can begin the work process. For quality insulation you need to take care not only of the walls, it is also necessary to cover the roof and floor in the garage with insulation.

How to insulate iron garage inside and out, and few people know how to save their car from premature "extinction". And it is completely in vain to think that the garage itself is a completely normal home for a car.

But in most cases, the conditions that exist in these "houses" cannot be called suitable for car storage. For example, the temperature in the room must be at least -7 degrees, otherwise, iron and plastic will begin to deteriorate and rot in a few years.

All kinds of options

Before you insulate an iron garage, you should decide what material and who will do it.

• Firstly, this process can be done with a brick or foam block. However, remember that these materials can only be used on the outer wall.

Note! Insulating the garage from the outside is necessary to keep the "dew point" in place, as well as to avoid condensation.

• Secondly, wooden clapboard, windproof film and mineral wool- all these materials are suitable for interior decoration. It is worth noting that each material has its pros and cons, the easiest way is to purchase foam. It has an affordable price and is easy to install.

• Thirdly, you can entrust the arrangement of the garage to specialized teams, but the cost of such a service will unpleasantly surprise you. Therefore, the easiest way is to do everything yourself.

Many people think that a cold garage is a very suitable home for a car. And they are very wrong. To keep the car body as long as possible untouched by rust, you need a warm room. When there are no sharp jumps in air temperature, then there are no conditions for the formation of condensate.

A properly insulated garage will protect your car from rust.

The temperature in the garage where the car is standing should not be lower than + 5 °, otherwise, after a while, the iron will begin to deteriorate and rot. Consider how to insulate an iron garage and what heaters can be used for this. and walls in the garage, you will save on heating the car, and at the same time create decent conditions for yourself if you need to work here.

Types of heaters for the garage

The use of heaters allows not only to insulate the garage, but also to solve the issue of sound insulation. Currently known heaters are of several types:

• mineral wool insulation;
• glass wool insulation;
• polymeric heaters.

When choosing an insulating material to insulate an iron garage, adhere to the following position:

1. To make it fire-resistant and waterproof, which will protect the building from unexpected fire and accumulation of excess moisture.
2. So that it is suitable for gradual installation, since the insulation of the garage is often carried out in stages: first the gate, then the ceiling, and finally the walls.
3. Must be the best combination price and quality of insulation.

Consider positive sides and shortcomings of heat insulators used most often. The well-known mineral wool is good for everyone, but it needs additional protection against dampness, its use is possible only if there is a protective layer of waterproofing.

Glass wool is more affordable than mineral wool, but is also very susceptible to moisture and is also highly flammable.

Styrofoam can be considered the most convenient heat insulator for garages, which is no worse than mineral wool in its properties.

This material is cheap and light, easy to work with, which makes it possible to use it for thermal insulation of garages. A special brand of foam has been developed marked "PBS-S" with a flame retardant content that reduces its combustibility, it is her professionals who advise taking it to insulate an iron garage.

There are also liquid heaters, for example, penoizol or liquid foam, which can quickly and properly insulate any outbuilding. It does not burn, is vapor-permeable, resistant to fungi, mold, insects and mice do not start in it, keeps heat well, is better than polystyrene and glass wool, has a long service life - more than 40 years. When sprayed, the foam fills the empty gaps of the insulated structure and hardens, resulting in a seamless thermal insulation layer.

Another liquid heat insulator - astratek, looks like paint white color. It is applied to any insulated surface with a brush. Spraying from astratek with a thickness of 1 mm is equivalent in its properties to a layer of mineral wool with a thickness of 50 mm. It can be applied to any building material, as well as metal and plastic. So for a metal garage it is quite possible to apply.

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Thermal insulation of walls and garage doors

All work on the thermal insulation of the garage is carried out in several stages:

• installation of a crate for a thermal insulator;
• laying a heat insulator;
• sheathing inner surface decorating material.

A wooden crate is needed to form a space between the walls of the garage and the finish, which will then be filled with insulation. It can be fastened to the surface of the walls of a metal garage with bolts.

In the manufacture of the crate, the dimensions of its niches are adjusted to the dimensions of the plates of the purchased material: glass wool, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. When the crate is ready, place the thermal insulator material, laying it in the niches of the crate.

It is possible to insulate the garage without crates. This option involves the usual gluing of foam sheets to a metal surface. After completing this work, you can decorative trim using facing materials. Usually, PVC, fiberboard or lining boards are used for this.

It is also possible to insulate a garage by simply spraying liquid insulation on the surfaces of walls, gates and coverings. Among liquid heaters applied to metal, astratek and penoizol are the most popular. After hardening, they create a small but quite effective thermal layer on the plane.

Start warming with garage doors. Styrofoam or mineral wool is suitable for this, and sheets of corrugated board for sheathing. Often the design of the gate is such that thermal insulation can be carried out quickly and without problems. For a conventional frame metal structure, sheathed on the front side with iron, a crate is made from the inside, with the help of which a heater is installed. Then it is sheathed with clapboard or corrugated board.

You can do it easier, attach the insulation to the door with glue or foam, then, using rubber, close the gaps between the opening and the door leaf. It happens that the insulation of the gate is enough to keep the positive temperature in the garage. It depends on the location of the garage.

The location of the garage also affects. They can be isolated both from the outside and from the inside. If there are a large number of shelves and racks inside, it is better to do this outside.

But most often the walls of the garage are thermally insulated from the inside. For this, the same foam is used. Its sheets are simply glued directly onto the walls of the garage, and then sheathed with clapboard. Prompt and inexpensive.

Technical condition car depends not only on the features of operation, but also on the conditions of its storage. An uninsulated garage perfectly protects the car from rain and snow, which reduces the likelihood of rust. However, temperature changes do not benefit the metal, and the equipment fails. The problem can be solved in two ways: insulate the garage or equip the heating system. What's better? How to insulate a garage from the inside cheaply and reliably? Consider the options.

To heat or to insulate - that is the question

The ideal temperature for storing a car is +5 degrees. It is uncomfortable for a person, but it is in such conditions that the mechanisms are less exposed to the destructive effects of corrosion. Also, the machine should be protected from sudden changes: the temperature difference between inside and outside the room should be minimal. Therefore, it is undesirable to connect the garage to the heating system and achieve "human" +20 degrees.

Insulated garage for two cars

Why is this mode optimal for the car? If the room is too hot or cold, condensation begins to accumulate in the mechanisms. This promotes corrosion. Because of high humidity fungi and mold multiply intensively, which negatively affects the condition of the cabin. Sudden temperature changes also lead to the formation of condensate when the car enters from a frost into an excessively warm room.

Basic requirements for garage insulation

For the construction of garages, brick, cinder block or metal are most often chosen. The thickness of brick and cinder block walls is usually 120-250 mm. They do not protect well from the cold, so they need high-quality thermal insulation. It is necessary to achieve the so-called. "thermos effect" so that the room cools down and warms up as slowly as possible.

When insulating the garage from the inside, you do not need to strive to close up all the ventilation holes. This will have little effect on the quality of thermal insulation, but it can lead to other problems. If there is no access fresh air moisture does not evaporate and rust appears on the metal. In addition, harmful gases accumulate in the room. If there is no exhaust or ventilation, this can be a risk factor for people.

How to insulate - from the inside or outside

Many car owners advocate exclusively for external insulation, explaining this by saving space inside the room. There are more weighty arguments, for example, concern for people's health.

Note! Some effective heaters allocate harmful substances in atmosphere. It is undesirable to use them indoors, but for external thermal insulation they fit great.

When choosing how to sheathe a garage from the outside, you can pay less attention to the environmental friendliness of materials and buy, focusing on performance characteristics and price.

It makes sense to insulate the garage from the inside. In this case, the materials are less exposed to negative factors. environment. When wet, heat insulators change their properties. If they are indoors, they last much longer.

Advice. If the budget allows, it is best to insulate the garage inside and out.

Overview of the materials market: choosing the best

Most materials for thermal insulation are made from waste products. They include glass, cellulose, aggressive chemical substances etc. The cheaper the insulator, the more disadvantages it has. We offer an overview popular materials with an emphasis not only on their pluses, but also on the minuses, limitations in use.

Installation of mineral wool on the ceiling

Option #1: mineral wool

This is a traditional heat insulator that has been used for more than a decade. There are several varieties of mineral wool, among which basalt has proven itself best. It is an excellent heat and sound insulator, does not disturb the micro-circulation of air in the room.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of hard, soft or semi-rigid mats. different thickness. Solid slabs are the most convenient in installation and have higher technical and operational characteristics. In addition, hard mats do not slip off the walls and do not go down, as sometimes happens with soft ones.

The installation technology is relatively simple. It does not require special equipment to work, so many owners choose mineral wool to insulate the garage from the inside with their own hands.

Note! Mineral wool does not tolerate moisture. When wet, it retains heat much worse. When calculating the cost of materials, you should add the cost of high-quality vapor and water insulators.

Scheme of a warming pie with mineral wool

Option #2: glass wool

Glass wool is one of the cheapest thermal insulators. This is where its advantages over other materials end. When installing glass wool, protective equipment must be used. Getting on the skin or in the eyes, the particles of the material injure, cause microtrauma, itching, redness.

The heater needs high-quality waterproofing. If moisture gets on it during installation or operation, the glass wool will crumple, lose its thermal insulation properties. Another downside is the smell. In a room insulated with glass wool from the inside, it smells unpleasant for a long time.

Advice. Glass wool must be carefully insulated with films or foil.

Glass wool for garage wall insulation

Option #3: Styrofoam

When deciding how to inexpensively insulate a garage from the inside, many choose polystyrene foam. It is cheap, reliable and durable material capable of lasting for several decades. It does not rot, is not afraid of insects and fungus. It can be cut with ordinary tools. No assistants are needed for installation. The material is light and easy to use.

Like all other heat insulators, Styrofoam is not perfect. It does not let air through, so in a warmed room you need to organize high-quality ventilation, and the joints between the sheets of material should be well sealed so that condensate does not accumulate.

Polyfoam is resistant to many chemical compounds, but at the same time it is afraid of direct sunlight. Mice love to chew on it. If you do not take care of additional protective measures, rodents can destroy the insulation in a couple of years after installation.

Option #4: polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam relatively new material but has already become popular. It is valued for its resistance to external influences. The insulator is not afraid of moisture. After drying, it forms a dense hydrophobic coating.

After application, polyurethane foam expands, fills all the cracks and voids, adheres firmly to the materials, so condensate does not accumulate under it. The material does not support combustion and can last more than half a century.

With all the advantages, the insulation is not without drawbacks, the main of which is the difficulty with installation. For the application of polyurethane foam is required special equipment. It is desirable that the work be performed by professionals. All this leads to an increase in the cost of thermal insulation, but the finished coating justifies the investment.

Application of polyurethane foam metal walls

Option #5: Reflective Thermal Insulation

The advantage of insulation with a foil layer is that thermal energy reflected back into the room. Polyurethane foam is usually used as a heater. The total thickness of multi-layer reflective thermal insulation can reach 50 mm.

Foil materials prevent heat losses that occur due to infrared radiation, but are less able to cope with those that occur during convection and heat induction. This is a minus. And the pluses include the small thickness of the insulating layer, the durability of materials and resistance to all types of influences.

Option #6: warm plaster

How else can you insulate the garage from the inside? If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, insulating plaster will do. It consists of special additives that keep heat well: expanded polystyrene, sawdust or vermiculite.

The material is good thermal insulation characteristics, however, for it to be really effective, you have to apply a thick layer of the solution. This creates an additional load on building construction.

Advice. Warm plaster is best used in combination with other types of insulation materials.

Option #7: Thermal Insulation Paint

When thinking about ways to insulate an iron garage, pay attention to heat-insulating paint. This material is a liquid solution of polymers with synthetic additives.

The finished coating has good thermal insulation properties. If we compare it with mineral wool, then the indicators differ by 50 times (1 mm of warm paint keeps heat in the same way as 50 mm of mineral wool).

After hardening, the solution layer turns into a dense vapor-permeable coating that does not interfere with micro-circulation of air and at the same time protects structures from water. The material is suitable for wood, metal surfaces. Additional plus- simple technology application.

How to insulate a garage from the outside - step by step instructions

For external thermal insulation, waterproof materials should be chosen, best of all - in the form of rigid mats. Most cheap option- Styrofoam. It must be closed from the outside, so you will also have to purchase finishing materials. The thickness of the insulation must be at least 5 cm. You will also need tools for cutting the plates, a notched trowel for applying glue, and fasteners.

Work order:

• Surface preparation. The walls are thoroughly cleaned of old coatings, leveled, dust-free. Cracks, crevices, gaps close up. Surfaces are best treated with a primer. This is optional, but it is highly desirable that the adhesive set well.

• Gluing sheets. The sheets are smeared with glue using a notched trowel, pressed tightly to the surface, controlling the pressure force so as not to damage the fragile material. The first row is placed on a pre-prepared bar, fixed to the dowels. The rest are staggered.

• Additional fixture. When the adhesive dries, each foam sheet should be further secured with plastic dowels.

• Plastering. After installing the insulation, its surface is covered with glue with a layer of 3-5 mm and a glass fiber mesh is laid, glue is applied again and plastered.

• The final touch is painting. When the plaster is completely dry, it is painted facade paint. The number of layers depends on the characteristics of the coating, so you should carefully read the manufacturer's recommendations.

External wall insulation with foam

How to make internal thermal insulation yourself

In order to insulate the garage with high quality, it is necessary to finish not only the walls, but also the floor, ceiling, gates. The choice of materials is extensive, each car owner can find exactly those that are suitable for his premises. Most often they stop at foam plastic, mineral wool, and expanded clay is bought for the floor. It makes sense to combine heat insulators, because. building structures are made of various materials.

Consider the main stages of work on the thermal insulation of the garage.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation from the inside

Stage 1: floor insulation

Usually the floor in the garage is poured with concrete, so it is better to insulate it during the construction phase. If the premises are bought ready, then the insulation will have to be abandoned, because. the floor level will rise significantly, which can create inconvenience. Alternative - take out excess soil and deepen the floor.

Expanded clay for concrete floor

Work order:

• The earthen floor covering is leveled, carefully compacted.

• From above, a layer of sand of 10-30 cm is poured onto the ground, rammed.

• A screed is poured over the sand cushion, waiting for the solution to dry.

• Expanded clay or sand is used as a heater. Materials are mixed with cement, diluted with water. Ready solution pour the floor, dry.

• When the insulating layer dries, pour the finishing concrete screed.

• Upon completion of the work, the floor cannot be used for the next month. This time is necessary for the complete hardening of materials.

Stage 2: ceiling insulation

How to insulate the ceiling in the garage from the inside and why is it needed? Warm air rises up - everyone knows this from the school physics course, so the ceiling must be insulated. Styrofoam is suitable as a heater. Given the peculiarities of mounting materials to the ceiling, it is difficult to find an alternative to this lightweight and convenient insulator. Sometimes they use mineral wool.

Mineral wool ceiling insulation scheme

Features of mounting foam on the ceiling:

• The choice of technology depends on the material from which the overlap is made. If the ceiling is wooden, then the foam can be attached directly to the surface with ordinary dowels or nails.

• If the ceiling is a concrete slab, you will have to mount the frame and lay the heat insulator on it. In this case, the sheets of material are fixed with adhesive tape, and then pressed with the outer skin.

• Cracks and gaps are blown with foam.

• The surface of the insulated ceiling can be treated with antiseptics, plastered, painted.

Stage 3: insulate the walls

Before insulating a metal garage from the inside, it is necessary to level the walls if they are bent. Styrofoam, polyurethane foam and heat-insulating paints are best suited as heat insulators. For rooms built of blocks and bricks, mineral and glass wool are often used.

Preparation of surfaces for the installation of insulation

How to mount cotton insulators:

• The walls are cleaned of old coatings, a frame is made.

• A cotton wool insulation is laid on the frame, securing with special hooks.

• The insulation is protected by breathable vapor barrier films.

• External finishing can be any. It is mounted after laying the vapor barrier.

Fitting mineral wool sheets to size

Insulation of a metal garage with polystyrene foam:

• Surfaces are prepared and degreased.

• The foam is mounted on glue, tightly pressing against the walls.

• Sheets are laid end-to-end, gaps are blown out mounting foam.

• When the foam hardens, cut off the excess. Surfaces are puttied and painted.

Note! When using Styrofoam, remember that in the event of a fire, it releases toxic substances into the atmosphere. It is necessary to strictly follow the safety rules, it is also advisable to keep a fire extinguisher in the garage.

Applying mounting foam to the insulation sheet

Stage 4: Protecting the gate

How to insulate garage doors from the inside? The sashes can be finished with foam in the same way as metal walls. If this is not enough, you can make a veil. For her workmanship fit dense fabric or thick polyethylene film.

Thermal insulation of walls and gates

General scheme garage door insulation from the inside:

• To begin with, a crate is made, into the cells of which sheets of insulation are then inserted, fixed with glue, dowels.

• Joints, seams, gaps are carefully sealed so that cold bridges do not form.

• Styrofoam is puttied, painted or covered with sheets of outer skin.

• When the thermal insulation work is completed, a curtain of polyethylene strips 20-30 cm wide is hung in front of the gate. The length should be such that there is a distance of 1-2 cm between the floor and the curtain.

Styrofoam on garage doors

Video: garage insulation from the inside

Foam insulation:

Heated garage door insulation

Insulation of the ceiling in the garage with mineral wool:

Each motorist decides for himself how and with what to insulate the garage. The main thing is that he himself be sure of the reliability of the chosen methods. If in doubt, you can always consult with other car owners, find out how they solved the problem. Better yet, seek the advice of professional builders. They will help to correctly combine materials so that thermal insulation is effective, durable and relatively inexpensive.

Any motorist knows that garage insulation is not a whim, but a real necessity. If you value your iron horse, then you definitely cannot do without such a procedure. But our world is so arranged that there is not always enough money for expensive heaters, not to mention hiring professionals. This article is written for those ordinary motorists who, for a number of reasons, are forced to install inexpensive garage insulation from the inside with their own hands, and in it I will talk about 3 available options insulation and about those materials that are suitable for this.

Owners choose insulation from the inside for various reasons. For example, in a garage cooperative, people simply have no other choice, the boxes are lined up in a united front, and there are not always good neighbors with warm garages.

It is practically impossible to equip metal structures from the outside. And finally, the most banal reason, internal insulation it's just cheaper. In addition, it is simply physically impossible to insulate the roof and floor from the outside.

What materials to choose from

Naturally, before you pick up a tool and get to work, you still need to decide how to insulate the house for your car. After all, each material has its own subtleties of installation, and most importantly, the cost of all these materials is different.

It is no secret that each person has his own concept of inexpensive, for one hundred thousand is not money, but for another a dozen for happiness. Therefore, I will briefly go through the entire range, and you already decide.

If we analyze all the above options for compliance with price / quality / ease of arrangement, then foam plastic is in the lead, followed by mineral wool slabs and materials made from sawdust close this honorary trio.

As if out of competition, we have expanded clay, among inexpensive heaters it is best suited for arranging the floor.

We decided on the top three leaders, and since our polystyrene turned out to be almost universal insulation, then the story of how to insulate the garage with my own hands, I will start with the example of foam.

Option number 1: polystyrene as a universal material for garage insulation

Warming the garage from the inside with your own hands can be conditionally divided into 4 stages. You will need to insulate the floor, walls, roof and garage doors, while the sequence of actions of great importance does not have.

Styrofoam insulation for garage walls

Since the walls of the garage have the largest quadrature, it means that they need to pay more attention.

There is little nuance, the arrangement of block and metal structures is different, and so that there is no mess in my head, I will talk about each technique separately and we will start with metal garages.

Styrofoam boards are classified by density. Not only strength, but also price directly depends on it. So, the cheapest foam plastic has a density of 15kg / m³, but it is not suitable for insulation. Remember, you need PSB-S25, it has a density of 25kg / m³. You can take and denser, but it will cost more.

• When insulating the walls of garages welded from sheet metal, it is easiest to put foam plates on glue. As an adhesive, you can use 2 options, the foam is equally well taken on "Liquid Nails" and on mounting foam;
• Personally, I prefer to work with mounting foam. Firstly, it is applied faster, and secondly, in any case, buy foam, since gaps are blown out with it. And in order not to spend money on glue and foam, I glue the foam plastic with mounting foam;
• smooth before gluing sheet metal need to prepare. To do this, the iron is first cleaned. Ideally, you need to strip to bare, shiny metal, but if the old one is holding up well, then you should not be too zealous. You can clean metal with large emery, a manual brush for metal, as well as using a nozzle with a cord brush on an electric drill or grinder. It’s easier for me to work with a nozzle, it’s inexpensive and it takes no more than half an hour for each wall;

• When the walls are cleaned, you will need to dust them off and degrease the metal. You can degrease with any alcohol-containing liquid, as well as kerosene or acetone;
• By the way, if you are dealing with a garage assembled from a profiled sheet, then you don’t need to clean anything there. The profiled sheet can be immediately degreased and pasted over with foam;

• Next, apply an arbitrary pattern of glue or foam to one of the sides of the foam and glue the plate to the wall. You can start from any corner you like, I usually start to the left of the gate and go clockwise;
• The boards are glued brickwork, with a shift between rows. The process of gluing with liquid nails or mounting foam has its own nuances. So liquid nails need to be smeared on a sheet, then attach the foam to the metal, immediately tear off and set aside for about 5 - 7 minutes. Only after that the sheet can be glued and it will take well, otherwise it will “float”;

• Mounting foam has a different technique. As you know, foam after application to any surface begins to expand. Therefore, when you stick foam plastic on it, the sheet itself will need to be pressed against the wall every 10 to 15 minutes, the expansion process lasts about an hour;
• When the walls are pasted over, the gaps between the sheets or any other gaps are blown out with mounting foam, and after it dries, the excess is cut off;
• In principle, this could be the end. But I recommend additionally pasting the walls with foil foam or some other similar blanket;

• The fact is that in our garages there is an acute issue of a shortage of usable space. And where foam plastic with a thickness of 100 mm is required, plates of 50 mm can be glued and covered with foil foam. Accordingly, where the project is supposed to mount a 50 mm foam, you can get by with thirty millimeters. Plus, walls covered with soft foil look much more elegant than bare foam sheets, from the cracks of which polyurethane foam peeks out.

The walls of block garages can also be pasted over with foam, but this technology is more used for insulation from the outside, since the insulation is additionally plastered. And from the inside in block structures, the foam is mounted under the crate.

Walls pasted over with foam, and even covered with foil foam, are inexpensive and very effective. But every motorist knows that in a decent garage there should be a lot of shelves, hooks and other attachments. And in order, figuratively speaking, to drive a nail into the wall, it must be strong and one cannot do without the above-mentioned crate.

• The inner crate is best made from bars. The thickness of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. Block walls are not metal, they already have a certain insulating ability, therefore, almost everywhere up to the northern regions, foam plastic 50 mm thick is used here. Under the crate for foam, I always take a bar of 50x50 mm;
• The direction of laying the crate depends on the type of finishing cladding. If this is some kind of rack finish, for example, lining or plastic panels, then the crate is installed perpendicular to the rails. For sheet sheathing, the direction of installation of the wooden crate does not really matter, but most often the bars are fastened vertically under the sheet;
• The step of fixing the bars on the wall is usually done clearly along the width of the foam sheets. But it is desirable that this step does not exceed 70 cm;

• The bars are mounted on self-tapping screws with plastic dowels "Quick installation" or on an anchor, it already depends on the material from which the walls of your garage are made;
• After the crate is fixed to the wall, foam sheets are inserted between the bars. If they fit tightly, then gluing them is not necessary. That, in principle, is the whole technology, then the finishing trim is attached to the crate. In my opinion, clapboard, plywood or OSB is best suited for a garage.

Styrofoam insulation for garage ceiling

Styrofoam is best suited for insulation from the inside of ceilings on metal roofs, as well as in block structures, where roofs are reinforced concrete slabs overlap.

In both cases, the technology will be approximately the same. I already described how to prepare metal for mounting foam plastic in the previous chapter. As for reinforced concrete floor slabs, here the preparation is a little different.

To begin with, you will need to seal the seams between the floor slabs, as well as various kinds of defects and chips, if any. Usually, it is recommended to use a cement-based putty for this.

But I prefer to just blow out all the major ceiling defects with mounting foam. Naturally, the excess foam after solidification will need to be carefully cut off. After that, reinforced concrete floor slabs should be covered with deep penetration soil. There are many such compositions now, but in most cases concrete contact is used.

Further, the ceiling is insulated in much the same way as we insulated the walls of the garage. That is, the foam is glued to the metal ceiling with Liquid Nails glue or mounting foam. But if it was more convenient to work with foam on the walls, then Liquid Nails is more suitable here.

Styrofoam is glued to reinforced concrete floor slabs as well as to metal sheets. Although if you plan to continue to sheathe the ceiling with some finishing material, then you will need to attach a wooden crate to the ceiling, lay the foam between the guides and then sew on the cladding you have chosen.

Since we are talking about how to insulate a garage inexpensively, the most the best option will paste over the ceiling with foam and glue foil foam on the foam. Indeed, on the ceiling you do not need to hang shelves or hammer nails into it, and foil penofol, firstly, looks good, and secondly, it is an additional layer of insulation, plus it creates the effect of a thermos and reflects heat rays inward.

Styrofoam for floor insulation

Styrofoam as a floor insulation is only suitable if you plan to lay wooden floors. Styrofoam cannot be laid in the screed, because it will not withstand such a weight and simply doubt.

Of all the currently existing slab insulation, only extruded polystyrene foam is suitable for laying in a reinforced concrete screed. Roads are insulated with this material, and even runways at modern airfields, so it will certainly withstand your car.

In order for the insulated wooden floors to stand firmly and not sink on the ground, you will have to pour a reinforced concrete screed. Naturally, if reinforced concrete floor slabs are laid on the floor, then no screed is needed anymore.

To equip a reinforced concrete screed, you will need to remove about 25 - 30 cm of soil inside the garage. The bottom of the pit should be well compacted and covered with geotextiles or technical polyethylene.

Then it is filled up, leveled along the horizon and a sand and gravel cushion 50 - 100 mm thick is well rammed. According to the technology, another layer of technical polyethylene must be laid on the sand and gravel cushion.

But, based on experience, in this case, you can deviate from this rule and immediately knit a reinforcing cage on the pillow. For reinforcement, a reinforcing bar with a diameter of about 10 mm (± 2 mm) is used. The frame is knitted in 2 layers with a gap of about 30 - 50 mm between the layers.

To keep the frame in this position until the concrete is poured, I lay out the pieces in a checkerboard pattern on a sand and gravel cushion broken brick and on it I knit the first layer of the grid.

Gap between first and second layer reinforcing cage I again provide by laying out broken bricks on pieces. Special accuracy in observing the gaps is not required here, the main thing is that the grid completely “drowns” in the concrete layer and at the same time there are gaps between the first and second layers, as well as between the pillow and the lower grate.

The thickness is concrete slab must be at least 100 mm. Concrete hardens within 28 days. After that, a continuous layer of waterproofing is laid on the concrete screed. The cheapest way to use technical polyethylene.

For warming wooden floors, foam plastic 50 mm thick will be enough. This means that we use a wooden block 50x50 mm as a load-bearing lag. Logs on the floor are mounted in increments of 30 - 40 cm and no more.

Styrofoam is laid as tightly as possible between the lags, and all gaps are blown out with mounting foam. In the garage, a tongue-and-groove or simply planed board with a thickness of at least 40 mm is laid on the floor.

All wood used for arranging any structures in the garage must be processed protective impregnations. There are a lot of various universal impregnations on the market now, so there will be no problems with the choice.

From above, the wooden floor in the garage can simply be painted. But in such cases, I recommend laying linoleum. You should not take expensive linoleum based on it, our task is to protect upper layer wood from abrasion, moisture and mechanical damage.

Styrofoam insulation for garage doors

In the economy version, foam plastic is perhaps the only material that can be used to insulate garage doors with high quality. We are talking about the insulation of standard metal double-leaf garage doors, which are on this moment used by at least 70 - 80% of motorists in our great country.

Such gates are often welded from sheet metal thickness from 3 to 5 mm, which is based on a frame made of a corner or a profiled pipe. As a rule, a corner is taken with a wing of 45 mm, and a profiled pipe is used with a square or rectangular section of at least 40 mm.

Of course, foam boards by analogy with insulation metal ceiling and walls can simply be glued from the inside of the gate. But the gate is not a ceiling, they are constantly in motion, plus there is a high probability of mechanical damage to the insulation.

Therefore, it is better to fix a wooden crate made of a 50x50 mm bar on the gate, lay foam plastic in the crate, blow out the gaps with mounting foam and sew everything up, for example, with OSB sheets.

Wherein wooden crate is attached not to the main surface of the garage door, but to the carrier metal frame. In a corner or in a profiled pipe, a series of holes are drilled on the side and a wooden bar is fastened through them with wood screws.

As an additional thermal screen, a curtain suspended at the top of the garage door opening is sometimes used. On the net, I often met advice to make such a curtain with my own hands from cut strips of technical polyethylene. People just saw something similar at car washes and decided that such a transparent curtain could be made from polyethylene.

So, if you love your car, then I do not advise you to do this. At car washes, such curtains are made of soft transparent plastic and they are quite expensive.

Polyethylene is not suitable for this. One of my neighbors made himself such a polyethylene curtain and he was happy with it for no more than a month. No matter how strange it may sound, it turns out that polyethylene strips are left on car paint micro scratches. A month later, the car had to be polished again, and the plastic curtain went to the trash.

If you really want an inexpensive curtain, then install it from above metal pipe or pull a string and hang sliding curtains from an ordinary tarpaulin on it. Naturally, they will have to be pushed apart and pushed in with their own hands, but the car will be intact and it will be warmer in the garage.

Option number 2: insulate the garage with basalt wool

As you probably already understood, polystyrene is perhaps the best option for inexpensive garage insulation from the inside. But of course he's not perfect. Styrofoam has 2 serious drawbacks: firstly, it burns, and secondly, mice start up in it.

Therefore, many owners prefer to use dense mineral wool slabs for insulation. The best representative of this family is now considered basalt wool. To prevent moisture changes from causing shrinkage, boards must be taken with a density of at least 180 kg / m³.

I will say right away that such plates will cost more than foam. Plus, not every garage can be insulated with cotton wool. So metal constructions warming with cotton wool is strictly not recommended.

The fact is that the thermal conductivity of the metal is quite high, and if you cover your metal garage with cotton slabs from the inside, then the so-called dew point will be inside the cotton slabs, which means that the condensate will settle there and the waterproofing will be useless here.

Every novice builder knows that cotton wool in any form is afraid of moisture, respectively, such insulation will become unusable very quickly.

As for block structures, it is possible to insulate them with wool from the inside, and the technology of such insulation is not much different from the above installation of foam plastic. But there are still some differences.

• So for gluing cotton slabs on concrete ceiling or walls using construction adhesive, about the same as for laying tiles. Personally, in such cases, I use dry building mixes from the Ceresit brand;
• Foil penofol will no longer stick to cotton slabs. To fix such a blanket through a heater, blind holes with a depth of about 50 mm are drilled in the base and plastic dowel umbrellas are driven into them. Dowels are driven in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 30 - 40 cm;

• Although wool is an excellent material for insulation gable roofs on wooden rafters, here it is significantly ahead of all heaters, including polystyrene;
• So if the roof is covered with ordinary slate, then on top of wooden rafters the crate is stuffed and slate is laid on it. To insulate such a roof, from the inside, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the crate and rafters with a stapler. Further, cotton slabs are tightly inserted between the rafters, after which the slabs are covered with another layer of vapor barrier membrane;
• In principle, you can stop there, but I always recommend additionally knocking out inner layer vapor barrier with a lattice of thin wooden planks, for example, 20x30 mm. If you feel sorry for the money for planed planks, then you can use a simple slab, but it will look very mediocre. In addition, the crate of planed wooden planks can be easily sheathed with the same plastic or any other facing material;

The vapor barrier membrane allows steam to flow in only one direction and this must be taken into account when installing it, the vapor-permeable side is marked on the membrane itself. Remember, steam must come out of the garage to the street.

• If you decide to lay cotton slabs in the crate on the walls or between the logs of the wooden floor, then wooden bars should be 20 - 30 mm higher than the cotton slabs. Here the technology is similar to the insulation of a gable roof.

First, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, then the plates are inserted and all this is covered with another layer of vapor barrier. Only between the second layer of vapor barrier and any finishing cladding should there be a ventilation gap, for this the supporting crate is made 20-30 mm higher than the insulation.

Option number 3: insulation of the garage with sawdust

Sawdust is practically a free material and our ancestors used it to insulate houses from time immemorial. But in the case of a garage, there are a number of limitations. So in metal garages, only the floor can be insulated with sawdust. In block buildings, sawdust slabs can be mounted almost everywhere, but only under the crate.

For installation in the crate, you will need to make sawdust slabs with your own hands. Sawdust is taken clean, without inclusions of bark or other debris. Fresh sawdust can not be taken, they must be aged for at least a year in a dry room.

To form the plates, you will have to knock down several wooden forms. Usually slabs are made with a thickness of 100 - 150 mm. The solution is mixed in a proportion of 10 parts of sawdust, 1 part of M500 cement and one part of slaked lime. All this is mixed in a concrete mixer and only after that water is gradually added.

To determine readiness, you need to squeeze the solution in your hand. The solution should stick together, but water should not flow out of it. To protect against mice, 2 - 3% is added to the solution. boric acid, and for the elasticity of the blocks, 1 - 2% gelatin dissolves in water.

The solution must be poured into molds, lightly tamped and wait until it dries. After that, such briquettes are laid in the crate. Only here is expensive enough vapor barrier membrane can be replaced with cheap glassine.

As you can see, there is much more trouble with sawdust than with foam plastic or mineral wool. Therefore, when it comes to sawdust, I recommend only insulating the floor with them. To do this, you will need to mix sawdust concrete.

Below in the table I wrote out the composition of such sawdust concrete.

The technology of arranging concrete reinforced screed I already described above. Here it is the same, with the only difference that the thickness of such a reinforced screed is made at least 150 - 200 mm.

A few words about the insulation of the floor in the garage with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a strong, durable, and most importantly inexpensive insulation.

The technology of floor insulation in the garage with expanded clay is somewhat reminiscent of the arrangement of a conventional concrete screed, only the thickness of the layers will be slightly different.

• The pit is dug here with a depth of about 450 mm. After that, the base is rammed and covered to the very top with an overlap on the walls with a continuous layer of waterproofing. Technical polyethylene is the cheapest;
• A sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of about 50 mm is filled up and rammed onto the waterproofing;
• Now, expanded clay of medium and fine fractions is mixed in equal proportions, after which the insulation is filled up with a thickness of 300 mm;
• The top layer is reinforced concrete screed 100 mm thick. I have already talked about this technology above.