How to sheathe a room with a broken ceiling with a clapboard. Finishing a wooden clapboard ceiling - the nuances of work, tips for sheathing

To date, one of the most popular materials for finishing the ceiling is lining. Natural wood coatings are overpriced, while lining remains a reasonable solution, combining naturalness and affordability. Lining for the ceiling in the house is able to retain useful wood properties, and also gives the interior an atmosphere of home comfort and beauty.

The lining got its historical name due to the fact that railway cars used to be sheathed with it. Appreciating this lumber, later it began to be used in interior decoration. Characteristics and advantages of wooden lining:/>

• naturalness of the material: lining is an environmentally friendly material that preserves all the useful properties of wood;
• pleasant smell that is good for health;
• vapor permeability, air easily enters the room;
• high sound insulation;
• thermal insulation, keeps heat in the house;
• hassle-free care: you do not need to spend a lot of time and money to maintain the beauty and useful properties of the lining;
• simple installation: the tongue-and-groove method is used, with the help of which almost everyone can fix the wooden sheathing.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that the ceiling made of wooden lining has a long service life.

The only minor drawbacks of the ceiling lining is that wood, as a natural material, tends to deform under the influence of temperature changes, as well as humidity. There are linings with imitation wood that do not undergo deformation, but they are suitable for living quarters.

Finishing the ceiling with wooden clapboard is not only a spectacular way to decorate a living space, but also a guarantee of a long-term investment in repairs that will not require updating after a short amount of time. Real wood is becoming more and more popular, due to consumer interest in eco-interiors, natural finishing materials, simplicity and quality.

Advantages of finishing ceilings with wooden clapboard:

• lining for the ceiling, the price of which corresponds to the quality characteristics of the product, is absolutely natural and environmentally friendly;
• thanks to the rich color scheme and ways to enrich shades with the help of a coating, the lining is suitable for decorating any interior, and decorative slats and strips will help to achieve an original visual effect;
• real wood improves the thermal insulation of the room, keeping the cold out and retaining the heat;
• the service life of this finishing material is practically unlimited;
• a wooden lining ceiling, a photo of which you can find on our website, looks great with walls made of similar materials and fills the room with pleasant fresh wood aromas.

Everyone who has used our services and installed wooden ceilings declares with confidence that it is much more profitable to invest in natural lining than in artificial finishing materials. By installing a ceiling lining, the price of which in our company corresponds to the manufacturer's price, you provide yourself with peace of mind and comfort for many years to come. The need to glue and tint is completely eliminated!

Natural wood, which has undergone high-tech processing, confidently withstands the test of negative factors. Prices for lining for the ceiling correspond to its high quality, which does not allow the appearance of scratches, abrasions, traces of insect pests and much more over time on the surface. Our products can be installed even in bathrooms, kitchens and baths: conifers treated with a special coating are not afraid of high humidity in the air, temperature changes and contribute to the ventilation of the room due to their properties and installation method.

We invite you to study the photo of lining ceilings on our website and pay attention to the methods of laying panels and various design solutions. So, for example, a wide lining for the ceiling can visually reduce the space, and a narrow one can make the room longer.

Ceiling from lining photo

What width of lining for the ceiling is better?

The dimensions of the lining for the ceiling in the house can be found completely different: the thickness ranges from 8 to 12 mm, the length is from 0.5 to 6 meters, and the width is from 45 mm to 130 mm. In the manufacture of lining, manufacturers most often focus on the dimensions of the "Euro standard":

• length - from 2.1 to 3 meters;
• thickness - from 12.5 meters;
• width - from 95 meters.

When the question arises, which width of the lining for the ceiling is better, you should give preference to wide boards. Wide lining for the ceiling - durable lumber.

The price of lining on the ceiling

The price of ceiling lining depends on its grade. At the moment, all manufacturers, when specifying the grade, are guided by the German standard - DIN 68126/86. The category is determined by the number of cracks, mold and other possible damage to the tree.

The highest grade of lining for the ceiling - Extra, has a perfectly smooth, even surface. It contains no knots or flaws. Next in descending order are varieties - A, B, C and others. When choosing class C, you need to be prepared for a large number of defects.

Also, the price of lining on the ceiling depends on its parameters. It is quite difficult to find a long ceiling lining with a small number of defects.

When choosing lining on the ceiling, you must carefully consider the breed of which it consists. A lining is made for the ceiling in the house from deciduous and coniferous trees. Spruce, pine are perfect for the ceiling when building a bath.

Thuja, cedar, larch will be the perfect solution for their beautiful texture. Lining and larches will please with excellent moisture-proof properties, serious resistance to various pests, as well as low cost. Siberian and Canadian cedar are superior to larch in their properties, but their cost is much higher. Ash and oak are fraught with special luxury and nobility. Lining from these materials will especially emphasize the elegance and beauty of your ceiling.

Which lining is better for the ceiling?

Lining is divided into three categories: ordinary lining, lining calm and eurolining. The latter are distinguished by high quality wood. They are made from a part of the trunk located between the bark and the wood core. Eurolining and lining are calm impregnated with various substances, thanks to which they can serve for more than 15 years. Calm lining is superior to eurolining in that, having all the same characteristics of eurolining, calm lining is wider and does not have a "shelf" near the joint. Now that we have figured out which lining is better for the ceiling, let's take a closer look at the characteristics of the calm lining.

Ceiling decoration clapboard photo

Calm lining - the best that is suitable for the ceiling

Finishing the ceiling with a clapboard calm in the photo allows you to achieve a perfectly flat ceiling. This lumber is made from coniferous tree species. Siberian larch is considered a particularly popular type of wood for wide lining for the ceiling, due to its strength, resistance to insects and moisture.

If you choose between euro lining and lining calm, it is worth noting that the latter is large in size. The surface is obtained without joints, so the material consumption is very economical.

Calm lining advantages:

• large dimensions compared to eurolining allow you to choose the material for the dimensions of the room;
• the width of the lining is 90-140mm, a wide lining for the ceiling will allow you to decorate it very beautifully;
• differs in high quality of production;
• the joints between the boards due to the use of lining are almost invisible, the ceiling visually looks seamless;
• great material savings;
• affordable price.

At the heart of the installation of the lining, calm, the groove-thorn principle is used, which allows fastening without any problems. A similar ceiling lining with clapboard is shown in the photo.
How to properly care for the ceiling lining?

When cleaning wooden cladding, it is not recommended to moisten abundantly with water, as well as use strong solvents. It is enough to wipe the surface with a slightly damp cloth, or use special care products for wooden lining. In addition, surface treatment with protective compounds will significantly extend its service life. Necessary means for the care of lining for the ceiling:

• flame retardants - substances that can significantly reduce the combustibility of wood;
• antiseptic treatment, serves to increase moisture protection and resistance to decay;
• tinting or clear varnish to preserve the appearance of wood.

Benefits of buying a calm lining in the Pomor Les online store:

• we offer reliable and high-quality lumber of the "Arkhangelsk forest";
• we cooperate only with proven large manufacturers from Arkhangelsk, the Republic of Mari El, as well as from the Irkutsk and Kirov regions;
• own delivery: materials are always delivered in the best possible way;
• simple order by phone without prepayment;
• the ability to pay in a convenient way for you;
• we provide the opportunity to come to the warehouse and independently choose the material you like;
• we carry out enhanced control over humidity, we carry out triple drying at your request, the last one is carried out during shipment;
• in our store only high-quality eurolining pine of the best varieties is presented.

Today lining is used for internal and external works. Of particular interest is the use of this finishing material to create the interior of country houses and city apartments. Let's find out how to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, so that the end result will bring joy and satisfaction to the property owner.

Varieties of lining

Among the many materials used for its manufacture, of interest are:

• natural wood;
• plastic

Plastic samples are made in the form of long and narrow rails, supplemented with special docking grooves, which is convenient for fastening. Among the positive characteristics of plastic material, we highlight:

1. Ease of fastening during the finishing process (convenience of working with the material).
2. Ceiling lining hides all the defects on the surface of the ceiling.
3. No corrosion, rotting.
4. Aesthetic appearance.

This material guarantees additional sound insulation, high-quality insulation, ideal for exterior and interior decoration.

But the ceiling made of wooden lining requires special care, special treatment. Installation of such a coating will be much more expensive than a plastic counterpart. Wood has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, therefore, with proper processing, the ceiling will harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the room. The finished wooden coating will be environmentally friendly; such a ceiling can also be made in children's rooms.

Action algorithm

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the tools, without which you can’t make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands. When installing this material you will need:

• wood saw;
• electric drill;
• level;
• rule;
• rubber mallet;
• construction angle;
• roulette

Attention! The material for covering the surface of the ceiling is taken with a margin of 15-20 percent. The calculation of the amount of material that will be required to close the surface must be carried out, taking into account:

• the length of the area to be closed, the width of the rails. If the length is greater than the size of the rails, the ceiling will have to be “finished” over the entire surface, otherwise the external impression will be spoiled.
• keep in mind that the rails are joined together, that is, 2-3 cm are lost during installation.
• you will most likely have to cut the outer rail with an electric jigsaw to drive it into the groove. It is better to leave 2-3 wooden lining, so that if one of them is damaged, a new rail can be cut.

The algorithm for attaching the lining to the ceiling involves the preparation of a wooden frame from a bar, the thickness of which will be at least 20 mm. The section option is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Ceiling installation

Work begins with the fastening of a wooden frame, which will become the basis of the entire wooden structure. It is on him that the lining of the ceiling is then performed with a clapboard. First you need to calculate exactly where the first typesetting rail should be located. If the wall is uneven, the rail is attached loosely, but with a small margin (5-6 mm), then it can be hidden under the ceiling plinth. In order to qualitatively sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to adjust the width of the last rail, also leave a 5-6 mm gap.

The nuances of mounting the frame

It is optimal to make a wooden frame from a bar 40 by 40, 20 by 40, or 50 by 50 mm. The fastening of the beams, as well as their fixation to the ceiling, walls, is carried out with plastic dowels and nails - screws (8 by 45 mm in size), or anchors and hardened self-tapping screws (4 by 75 mm, for wood). When choosing a metal frame, you will additionally need:

• UD profile for perimeter formation;
• U-shaped mounting options, as well as cross "crab" fasteners;
• self-tapping screws for metal, "fleas" with tips in the form of a drill;
• CD profile for frame

The amount of material that will be required for the work is calculated after a detailed study of the instructions. To nail the lining to the ceiling, you will need a construction stapler, nails, self-tapping screws with press washers.

When creating a wooden frame, pay attention to the following points:

1. When adjusting the rails, leave a gap of 4-5 mm along the entire length on both sides to prevent deformation of the material during expansion.
2. Do not try to immediately cut wooden slats on the entire ceiling surface. Fitting in length is individual, and therefore, each new workpiece must be cut out immediately before fastening. This will save materials, but it will take more time to fit.
3. It is not necessary to fix the workpiece with nails, just insert it into the lock of the previous plank.

If there are any difficulties with getting into the lock (grooves), you will need a rubber mallet. With it, you can knock out the attachment point, adjust the rail. Next, the blanks are fastened with self-tapping screws on all frame rails, it is better to fasten in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe locking border.

Base mounting options

Before starting the arrangement of the ceiling, you need to find the lowest possible area on the ceiling surface. From it retreat down the wall about 6-10 cm, get the initial mark. Similarly, put marks on all four walls, armed with a water (or laser) level. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the entire room, which will correspond to the location of the base.

Advice! If you have chosen only wooden blocks or boards for the base, be sure to pre-coat them with an antiseptic to protect them from decay and increase fire safety.

1 way. Creation of a frame on wooden blocks. The bars are fixed perpendicular to the direction of mounting the lining. Between the bars there should be a distance of at least 60-100 cm. Installation is carried out so that the location of the lowest edge is strictly parallel to the floor. You need a level to check. First, bars are attached at opposite ends of the room, stepping back from the ceiling surface by 10-15 cm. Then, after 60 cm, you need to attach the bars around the entire perimeter of the room using anchors, dowels, or impact screws. If the bar moves away from the ceiling surface, plates made of bars are placed inside. The fishing line is pulled between the bars, they get a guideline for mounting the remaining bars. To increase the strength of the frame, jumpers are made.

2 way. Creation of a base for lining from a metal profile. The algorithm of actions is similar to covering the ceiling surface with drywall. First, a line is drawn throughout the room (along all four walls), which will correspond to the false ceiling. Further, the UD profile is fixed with dowels. Then the last two metal CD profiles are attached, and the distance to the wall is taken 10-15 cm, and the direction of attachment is at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining of the lining.

The profile along the entire length is attached to the surface with special fasteners, the fixation frequency is 40-60 cm. The rope is pulled, but not installed, the rest of the profile is fixed. If necessary, to strengthen the base, the installation of crosses is carried out using "crabs". Prior to fixing the lining, electrical wiring is attached for the installation of pendant lamps, and places are specially left for the release of electrical wires. As soon as the ceiling is sheathed, a wire can be brought out through the holes left, lamps are attached to it.

Lining fastening

Let's find out how to fix the lining to the ceiling. Finishing the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands involves fastening the strips perpendicular to the guides of the finished frame. The choice of direction is carried out taking into account the design features of the room. If the plans include a visual expansion of the space, the rails are fastened along the length. When decorating the ceiling surface in a wide room, transverse fastening of the lining is allowed, the room will seem smaller. Even when lining the lining immediately to the surface, a crate is necessarily performed. The base of specialized metal profiles designed to fix drywall sheets significantly reduces the total weight of the ceiling structure. For kitchens, hallways, it is desirable to use a metal base for lining.

Let's talk about how do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling is carried out. As soon as the frame is ready, the MDF blank is cut in strips along the entire length, corresponding to the length between opposite walls minus the gap - 5 cm. To maintain the parallelism of the rails, it is better to install each board separately, checking the location with a level.

Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling sheathing video demonstrates the procedure. The first rail is fixed in length, then attached alternately to the base rails. The distance from the first rail to the wall is assumed to be 3-5 mm. The rest of the workpieces must first be placed at an acute angle with a groove in a fixed strip, then firmly pushed in until the “lock” snaps into place. In order for the fixation to be of high quality, gently tap on the end of the inserted strip with a rubber mallet. The second side of the lining is screwed over the lower edge of the lock to the guides of the frame itself, using carnations or self-tapping screws with press washers.

Before fastening the screws, it is better to drill small holes on the strips, in which case the board will not chip off. For more information on how to mount the lining on the ceiling, you can watch the video. In order to get patterns from the lining on the ceiling, you can use materials from different woods. The end board is inserted into the castle using small wooden wedges, they need to be driven between the base of the wall with the wall and the lath. The remaining gap will then be hidden under a decorative plinth. To understand all the nuances of how to hem a clapboard ceiling, you can watch a video offered by professionals.

Clapboard ceilings look simply chic, in a modern style and emphasize the individual design of the room. The characteristic stripes that form as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious, and the ceilings are perfectly even.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with it and in fact everyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of frame for the ceiling

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate the uneven and ugly surface from your future new ceilings. Also, the frame will allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the whole structure with good strength.

The lining on the ceiling is sewn on top of the frame, so in any case you will need a crate, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is made much easier than the frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use both and simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and on the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen, it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and the finishing material - lining can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be an excellent solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of mounting the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Clapboard - panel

It imitates an ordinary wooden beam and has a simpler shape. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology contributes to better ventilation of the room, drainage of moisture and various fumes. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration, it is used more often than Lining-Calm, since eurolining is much cheaper in cost.

Clapboard - Calm

The material has a perfectly smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front of the board. It is used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Clapboard - American

It imitates laying boards with an overlap, as a result of which the junction between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used in outdoor decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with clapboard, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your clapboard ceilings are impeccable.

• Ordinary hammer.
• Screwdriver, or drill with a chipper.
• and building area.
• Accurate roulette.
• Jigsaw or hacksaw.
• Scissors for metal, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for the ceilings from the lining must be selected according to the calculations made earlier. A beam for a wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the beam, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will also hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 bars.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the bars, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into the concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here the family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of components of the frame will increase much and you will need additionally:

• Guide profile - UD.
• The profile underlying the frame is CD.
• Mounts "Crab" and "P" - shaped mounts.
• Self-tapping screws for metal.

To mount the lining itself on the frame, you can use a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then ordinary nails can be used.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall by 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using a water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will verify the horizontal position of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary in advance and to increase fire safety.

Wooden bars are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the bars should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only refined, but also improved, for example:, then in this case the step between the bars should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” of mineral wool or other heat and sound insulating material also have a width of 60 centimeters. The bottom edge of all bars should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the bars. Be sure to use the water level.

We fasten two beams along two walls from different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. we clearly align the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the bars. Next, with a step of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the bars, checking our work with the help of a level at different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to put wooden linings, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining along it.

If you are not sure about the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional transverse bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. It can be strengthened and only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to install all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That's the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, the metal profile for creating various kinds of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. So I don't really want to repeat myself.

Lining made of wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards must be prepared and cut to size identical to the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lining lamella for a specific place.

Important! If you plan to mount the lining on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, then you need to use doboy so that the hammer does not damage the lock and the front of the board.

When your lining ceiling is in the process of being set, it is necessary to mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. After the ceiling is ready, it will be more difficult to cut holes, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly knocking, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along the entire length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, you should not put the lining on the glue, since you will already have a durable and strong construction.

Plastic lining

The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The main difference will only be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent board must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now ceiling plinths are often made, which already initially have this groove. There is also a collapsible design in the shape of the letter “G”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before sheathing the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finish. As a result, the overall level of the ceiling will be determined by the pre-assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all the strips fit more closely to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the junctions.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to fix a corner or decorative plinth around the perimeter of your new ceiling. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The plinth is usually mounted with liquid nails. There are also special clips.

If there is a desire, then the lining can be varnished in several layers, as well as with the help of a stain, give the necessary shade to the ceiling. And only after that you can enjoy the view of your ceiling, the work on which can be considered completely finished. The lining ceiling is not only a decorative decoration of the room, but also a lighter finishing option.

You can make a living room cladding from anything, fortunately, the market provides a huge selection. It's just a matter of personal preference and price. One desire to independently repair the ceiling will not be enough, since you will need a special tool and at least the slightest idea of ​​\u200b\u200brepair work. The lining itself is a fairly easy-to-use material, which means that its installation will not be difficult for a real man.

Preparatory work before plating

You can not immediately sheathe the ceiling with clapboard. First you need to select and purchase finishing material, fasteners and missing tools. And, of course, you can not do without preliminary cleaning of the surface, preparation and insulation.

But let's get it right. First you need to choose a high-quality, and most importantly durable material, which also suits your taste.

Variety of lining

Clapboard made of wood

Cladding panels have a certain structure for their convenient fixation. All bars are mounted using grooves and ridges, which are assembled like a puzzle. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will have an ideal shape and not have traces of defects.

Wood panels are divided into categories:

• The category "Extra" is assigned to materials made from the highest grade of raw materials, do not have knots and dark spots. This category is the most expensive;
• Category "A" includes all the same quality bars, but with a small number of knots. A kind of union price-quality. At the same time, the prices for such goods are quite acceptable;
• Category "B" is best used in rooms that do not require close attention - recreation areas in the country, balconies, loggias;
• Category "C" - these are panels from the cheapest types of wood with knots and dark spots.

Healthy! The best materials for upholstery are made of such trees: pine, linden or cedar. This is a classification of wood flooring. But lining the ceilings with clapboard is more diverse, PVC materials can also be attributed to it.

plastic panels

PVC panels are divided into:

• Seamless panels. Their design and ridged sheathing technology makes it possible to make the ceiling as smooth as possible with a barely noticeable seam. Most often, in this case, panels of greater width are used in order to reduce the number of visible seams. In the photo you can clearly see the quality of the panels;

• Panels with marked seam. In appearance, they are similar to a lining made of wood. However, such a lining does not need to be pre-treated with anything;

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic clapboard, you need to pay attention to some points in working with PVC panels:

• By itself, the plastic has a fairly flexible structure and hides surface defects well. But such panels should not be subjected to constant stress, since subsequently cracks form, which cannot be removed in any way;
• has high moisture resistance, but the sun's rays are harmful to it. If the sun constantly hits such a ceiling, then over time it will lose its original appearance.

MDF panels

Mounts on wood products and MDF are similar to each other, so the ceiling filing is done in the same way as with wooden blocks.

The next step after choosing wood panels

When all the facing material is purchased, it must be prepared. You can not immediately proceed to the sheathing of the room.

• Immediately after purchasing the materials, they must be removed from the packaging and laid out separately from each other;
• It is recommended to lay out the panels on wooden blocks or just a flat dry surface;
• Wooden panels must be dried beforehand. No one can guarantee the complete absence of moisture in the product.

Advice! The optimal time for drying wooden materials is 1 quarter.

Be sure to use these tips, since it is possible to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard for many years only if the humidity of the room and wood is equal. Otherwise, there will always be a possibility of deformation of the skin.

Note! Plastic and MDF panels do not need to dry. Prior to installation, the materials should be kept for no more than three days in a warm place.

We start installation

First you need to stock up on a special tool:

• Perforator, drill or drill. If the room has a concrete ceiling, then you need to use a drill with a diameter of 6-8 millimeters.
• Electric screwdriver or a screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws. Such a device will greatly speed up and simplify the cladding process.
• Jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting panels to desired dimensions. Suitable for wood, plastic and MDF.
• Construction tape measure.
• Building level for the most even finish.

Advice! If the necessary tool is not at home and, most likely, it will not be useful in the future, then in specialized hardware stores there is a tool rental service. For use, you will need not only to pay, but also to leave some kind of document or other pledge.

Now you can safely get to work. The following is an instruction: how to properly sheathe a ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands and using the above recommendations.

Preparatory stage of work:

• clear the ceiling from dust, dirt and even plaster, as it often crumbles;

• Draw Markup to build a crate. Immediately determine the direction in which the lining will go. The choice should be made in favor of the direction in which there will be no inter-end joints between the panels;

Note! Wood materials are not as durable as metal structures. If the choice is made in favor of a tree, then before installation it must be treated with additional means for protection. But it is impossible to completely get rid of the likelihood of rot or mold over the years, since moisture can accumulate there at any time.

• If you are the owner of a house or cottage, then be sure to lay a heat-insulating layer in the ceiling. Profile racks are installed at a distance of 50-60 centimeters from each other and a heater is placed in this space. In apartments, this should not be done;
• The crate is attached to the ceiling with dowel-nails. The depth of the fittings is selected according to the thickness of the frame;

• Fasteners must be installed at a distance of no more than 50 centimeters. If the ceiling is sheathed with eurolining, the distance of the fasteners is halved. This is due to the greater weight and thickness of the material.

Preparatory work is a very important step towards a beautiful ceiling, which, at the same time, will last for many years. At this stage, it is important to make the surface perfectly smooth and even.

Installation of lining on the structure

Installing panels on the crate is a fairly simple task and does not require the use of special knowledge. It is desirable if you have an assistant in this matter. Then lining of any length will be installed quickly and efficiently.

• The first bar should be firmly fixed to the wall.

• Subsequent rows of panels are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones. Each panel must be fixed in place of the lathing.
• Holes for lighting fixtures and pipes are measured during direct installation, so as not to be mistaken and not to do too much.

To make the ceiling perfect, panel fasteners should be inserted at the junction of the groove and ridge. Thus, the caps of the screws will not be visible. If nails are used for sheathing, then their hats are cut off with a special tool. Subsequently, wax must be applied to the attachment points.

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic, openings are made in all panels. A drill is used for this (necessarily small diameter), which will not spoil the surface of the panel.

• Before you sew up the ceiling with clapboard, conduct a thorough check of the electricity and communications in the ceiling. If problems are found after the installation of the cladding, then damage and defects may remain when it is removed;
• If the sheathing is made of wooden material, then stainless steel fittings are better suited, for example, since rust will not appear from it. In the case of plastic, you can use any fasteners, as it is easy to clean;

• In no case should you start installation if the room temperature is below 10 degrees. Also, do not work in a damp room;
• It will be useful to isolate the lining in places of contact with the wiring.

Operation of lining

If you use wooden materials for the ceiling, then they must first be coated with an antiseptic, and then with paints and varnishes to protect against ultraviolet radiation and other harmful effects.

Do-it-yourself ceiling sheathing with plastic clapboard also provides for some care measures:

• Cleaning the surface from accumulating dust and dirt;
• Treatment of chips and scratches with special wax.

In the case of MDF panels, only moisture should be avoided. Its percentage in the room should not exceed 75%.

Conclusion

The article describes in detail and step by step how to hem the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands. We advise you to watch the video in the article - it shows the process more clearly.

A beautiful, durable and practically maintenance-free ceiling will turn out if it is correctly sheathed with clapboard. It is made from a cut board planed on both sides with a selection on the sides. On the one hand, a spike (comb) is left, on the other hand, a groove.

Most often, lining manufacturers adhere to the dimensions of the "European standard", i.e. length from 2.1 to 3.0 m, thickness from 12.5, width - 95 mm.

The lining ceiling is an excellent option for a ceiling that does not require special care. It is a durable and inexpensive ceiling design option.

A groove is made on the back side of the eurolining, the presence of which implies balancing the evaporation with the front side, i.e. board warping is reduced. Given the best quality of the material, most developers prefer to work with eurolining. "Regular" lining differs from eurolining in the level of quality of wood processing. She has a slightly smaller spike, and when the level of humidity in the room changes, cracks may appear.

The dimensions of an ordinary lining can be found very different: thickness from 8 to 20 mm, length from 0.5 m to 6 m and width from 45 mm to 130 mm. It is distinguished by grades: from solid wood and without knots - the highest grade. Accordingly, the more knots, the lower the grade.

Eurolining is the most popular material among construction organizations, due to its quality.

Thick boards only make the ceiling heavier, and its cost will be much higher. If you buy a thinner lining, then when attaching it to the ceiling with a tenon-groove connection, it may break. Before sheathing the structure, the prepared lumber for lining must be dried well.

Along with the manufacture of natural wood, the industry produces lining made of PVC with wood imitation, it does not rot, does not corrode. Caring for her is quite simple. But living quarters are not trimmed with lining made of polyvinyl chloride materials.

When buying a lining, you should definitely look at it, as a marriage may come across in the package. Therefore, you need to buy it with a margin.

Preparatory work

Before installing the eurolining, it must be kept indoors for a day, and then varnished so that the material is not deformed during installation.

When purchasing, you need to know that it must lie in the room for some time in order to stabilize the humidity of the wood and the surrounding air.

Before starting work on laying, the lining must be varnished so that it does not warp after installation. The inside of the lining must also be varnished or antiseptic, the ceiling surface must be cleaned of old building material or whitewash.

Before lining the ceiling with clapboard, it is worth deciding on its color, deresining wood, especially from coniferous trees (25% acetone solution or ethyl alcohol). Wood bleaching is carried out by means such as hydrogen peroxide, bleach. When bleaching wood, it should be borne in mind that the effect of hydrogen peroxide on the wood of different tree species acts differently.

If you are satisfied with the color of natural wood, then you need to varnish it.

Properly prepared material for work is half the success.

Back to index

Installation of lining

To work with the lining, you will need: a puncher, a hammer, a construction stapler, a tape measure, a screwdriver, a building level, an electric jigsaw, etc.

Required tool:

• perforator;
• a hammer;
• fasteners;
• construction stapler;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• screws;
• level;
• finisher;
• electric jigsaw (hacksaw).

To determine the length of the bars for the crate, it is necessary to correctly measure the ceiling. The bars must be dried and, in order to avoid the processes of decay and damage by wood grinders, are impregnated with an antiseptic. The optimal size of the bars is 30x30 mm.

Fix two bars on opposite sides of the ceiling at a distance of about 10 cm from the walls. If this is the ceiling of a wooden house, then the bars can be nailed or attached with screws to the floor beams or ceiling.

If the floor slabs are panel (made of reinforced concrete), then holes are made with a puncher at the places where the bars are attached. Chopics are hammered into the holes and the bars are fastened with screws.

The thickness of the lining should be chosen from considerations of the necessary elasticity of the crate: the greater the width, the easier and faster it is to work.

The length is chosen according to the size of the ceiling. If it is necessary to adjust to size, then the unnecessary part is cut off with an electric jigsaw and only on the front side so that there are no chips and cracks

If the lining is fixed vertically, then the bars are located horizontally.

The bars of the crate are leveled. If there are deviations, then a lining is made from the same lumber under the bar. Having measured the distance between the bars fixed to the ceiling with a tape measure, mark the attachment points of other bars with a step of no more than half a meter. Mark the exit points of the electrical wiring.

You need to start laying the panels from the side opposite from the entrance. Cut off the spike from the first panel and fix it through the groove with a self-tapping screw, kleimer or building bracket to the bar. It is not recommended to beat on a wooden surface - the surface of the boards will be damaged.