How best to insulate the loggia from the inside. Do-it-yourself insulation of the inner wall of the loggia
Any purposeful year-round use of the balcony space involves its insulation, of course, if you do not use the balcony as a freezer in winter. An office or a "closet" for storing conservation, a winter garden or a place of secluded relaxation ... How to insulate a balcony with your own hands to implement your plan?
The sequence of actions for warming the balcony consists of the following steps:
- studying the condition of the balcony and drawing up an action plan
- reinforcing the parapet - creating a supporting structure,
- exterior finish,
- glazing,
- thermal insulation,
- sealing,
- fine finish.
Sequence planning
First things first, examine the condition of the balcony, both from the side of the street and from the side of the apartment. And it doesn't matter that you have already visited this balcony hundreds of times - a new look at the balcony from the point of view of repair will allow you to see the previously invisible and explore the insulated surfaces.
Make a work plan. Let this be a preliminary plan, but it will allow you to decide on the purchase of the necessary materials, ordering double-glazed windows, etc.
When solving the problem of how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, you will definitely need information about the basic methods of insulation. Don't limit yourself to just this article. The more you know, the more different repair options will open up for you.
Important! The next step in your actions should be the "total eviction of the inhabitants" of the balcony. After all, usually an uninsulated balcony is a place to store a lot of unnecessary things.
Parapet reinforcement
Since you are planning to insulate the balcony, you should take care of a reliable basis for installing the glazing frame. The standard parapet of a “Soviet”-built balcony has a parapet in the form of a thin, low metal fence, which is quite strong in itself, but the quality of its fastening in the balcony slab often leaves much to be desired.
But even if it is well fixed and able to withstand the weight of the glazing frame, it is not possible to fix the frame on the parapet with high quality.
The fact is that the standard parapet actually runs along the edge of the concrete balcony slab. And if a frame is installed on such a parapet, then to fix it, you will have to drill the top plate almost at the very edge, which will inevitably lead to “splits” of the latter.
In order to qualitatively fix the glazing frame from all sides, including from above, it is necessary to shift the plane of the frame installation inside the balcony by several centimeters (5-7 cm) relative to the edge of the top plate. You can check the need for such a reconstruction using a plumb line.
This will happen to the detriment of the useful area of the balcony, but it will allow you to securely fix the frame for its many years of “life”.
Attention! It is unacceptable to fix the frame on the mounting foam, since over time (1-2 years) under the influence of the sun and wind loads on the plane of the windows, it collapses.
This design can be optimally made from a bar of 50x70 mm. The option of using gas blocks is not entirely acceptable, since they will create an additional weight load on the balcony slab, which, together with the heavy construction of the glazing frame, can lead to the collapse of the balcony.
External finishing of the parapet and side walls
It is necessary to decide on the external finish of the parapet. Performing such work before glazing will provide you with a lot of convenience for installation, such as siding. On the implementation of such work, you can view a lot of materials outside the format of this article.
In short, from such material as siding, we can say that it belongs to the group of PVC profiles. This is a frost-resistant and weather-resistant finishing material used for outdoor work.
The design of the profile ensures ease of installation, which must be done very carefully on the balcony. The result of unscrupulous and illiterate installation of siding is stripes torn off by the wind, which you can’t just put back in place.
Video: highlights in the installation of siding
Be careful! When installing siding, it is STRICTLY CONTRAINDICATED FOR HEALTH to bend over the parapet of a balcony to install an external finishing material. All work on fixing the siding can and should be carried out through the balcony railing. And for safety, use a mounting belt with a chain and a carabiner.
Video: "Errors when installing siding"
The exterior decoration of the balcony can also be made with plastic clapboard or corrugated board.
Balcony glazing for the purpose of its insulation
Having decided to insulate the balcony with your own hands, you will not pass by the stage of its glazing. Balcony glazing can be carried out along the entire perimeter of the parapet or partially, making the side walls and side parts of the front side “blind”. I hope you have already realized that under the glazing you need a serious supporting structure, the presence of which will guarantee the longevity of the window frame of the balcony. As a glazing today, metal-plastic windows are the best option in the price-quality comparison. Their wear resistance and durability in the "company" with the correct installation firmly hold such windows in a leading position in the building materials market.
To insulate balconies, you can use single-chamber (there is a possibility of freezing in winter) or double-glazed windows (ideal, but heavier).
It is advisable to choose five-chamber profiles for frame structures from reliable manufacturers.
For more information about choosing a glazing option, see the article "Insulation of the loggia".
Balcony insulation
How to properly insulate a balcony after glazing? Now we are talking mainly about internal insulation, since “carrying out “insulation” work outside at a height with your own hands is highly not recommended - contact high-altitude specialists.
How to insulate a balcony from the inside? And what is the best way to insulate the balcony inside?
All materials and technologies used must meet the following criteria:
- insulation for the balcony must be non-combustible;
- calculate the allowable load on the base of the balcony, especially in the case of the construction of supporting masonry from foam concrete or aerated concrete (a balcony is not a loggia);
- the insulation must have a minimum thickness with maximum heat-insulating properties - the area of \u200b\u200bthe balcony is not unlimited;
- take care of an additional heat source on the balcony, while remembering that pipes and central heating batteries are prohibited by law from being taken out to balconies.
It is possible to insulate a balcony with high quality only with the obligatory insulation of the supporting parapet, floor, ceiling and right and left side walls. On a small balcony, it will be effective to use effective thin heaters, for example, penofol, penoplex.
Stages of creating a heat-insulating layer
In choosing the method of warming the balcony with your own hands, you should decide on the choice of heat-insulating material. How to insulate the balcony inside? What is the best insulation for a balcony? Suitable basalt, mineral wool, polystyrene foam (flammable!). The best choice can be expanded polystyrene foam, which is also resistant to moisture, temperature extremes, aggressive environmental influences and, at the same time, has high thermal insulation qualities.
Before installing the insulation, the installation plane must be carefully waterproofed from external moisture. For these purposes, a waterproofing film (up to 200 microns) or foamed polyethylene (4-10 mm) is used. Installation is carried out on double-sided tape, staples, foam, glue - the choice of method depends on the base. The joints of the sheets are carefully glued with adhesive tape.
The thermal insulation layer must be covered with a vapor barrier layer. It can be foam foil. This material is placed with the foil side inside the room - this will create an additional heat-reflecting layer.
Attention! In the case of using cotton wool insulation, a mandatory-recommended element is a vapor barrier layer, which is designed to prevent warm steam from entering the vapor barrier layer from the side of the room.
Some ways to warm the balcony with your own hands
- What material to insulate the balcony?
- As we have repeatedly mentioned, it is possible to insulate a balcony with various heat-insulating materials. Consider some individual methods of insulation.
Insulation of the balcony with polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam)
Styrofoam - it is also polystyrene foam, it is also a heat insulator with low thermal conductivity due to its structure, saturated with large air "bubbles". Available for use in the form of plates with a thickness of 50-150 mm. Plates up to 100 mm thick are suitable for us.
The advantages of insulating a balcony with foam plastic include the hygroscopicity of this material, that is, its resistance to moisture.
"Steps" in the process of insulation with polystyrene foam:
- deep priming of balcony surfaces;
- installation of plates with a special adhesive composition;
- additional fastening of plates with dowels of the "umbrella" type;
- we fix the vapor barrier layer (for those who are pedantic about the task at hand - all others can do);
- we reinforce the surface with a fiberglass mesh fixed with an adhesive solution;
- we putty, plaster, paint, etc.
Styrofoam - as a heater on the balcony Insulate with foam
Penoplex or extruded polystyrene foam is better, but also more expensive material for balcony insulation. Foam slabs with a thickness of 20-100 mm often have a stepped protrusion at the edges, which makes it possible to obtain a better connection when docking such as a "quarter" or "thorn-groove".
At temperatures up to "-25 ° C", a 40 mm insulation layer is sufficient. In "frosty" climatic conditions, a layer of foam 50-70mm is required.
Insulating with Penoplex, we act as follows:
- we waterproof the surface on which we will mount the foam boards;
- installation of plates is carried out "end-to-end" (Required!);
- if the plates are to be plastered in the future, then they must be fixed to the adhesive composition + we make a “control” fixation with the help of dowels - umbrellas, and in the case of a different decorative finish, it will be enough just to fix the plates with dowels - “umbrellas” (5-8 pieces per plate);
Note! If the front wall of the balcony is made of foam blocks or other “solid” material, then for mounting on it (also on the side and ceiling surfaces) Penoplex should not be made of wooden or other crates. In comparison with the thermal insulation properties of foam plastic, wood is the worst heat insulator. Therefore, the crate will simply create "bridges" of cold, which will be very inopportune. For the subsequent installation of drywall or lining, the crate is made on top of the vapor barrier layer laid on the foam. The resulting air "pockets" will play the role of additional heat insulators.
Balcony insulation with mineral wool
If in response to the question of what material to insulate the balcony with, you will say - with mineral wool! Well - this is an option, but not the best. For we have almost come to the dispute “which insulation is better for a balcony” to the dominant answer - Penoplex. And wool with a small thickness will not give a sufficient thermal insulation effect, but it will be a little “difficult” to install when eliminating the gaps between its plates.
But, "the master is the master"!
We will tell you how to insulate a balcony from the inside with mineral wool:
- we remember about the waterproofing of the surface and, of course, we carry it out;
- carefully and accurately glue sheets of cotton wool to the surface (without pushing through them) with a minimum gap;
- after the glue has dried, we additionally fasten it with dowels - "umbrellas";
- and again vapor barrier - here it is MANDATORY!
- then the installation of a reinforcing mesh or lathing and decorative trim.
Note! When insulating the floor, working with mineral wool will be much easier. It is laid between the lags on a waterproofed surface. Top covered with a layer of vapor barrier and rough floor material.
Additional heat sources
If your insulated balcony is not one with the room, but is isolated from it by a window and a balcony door, it will be useful to install an additional heater on it. The best option would be to use electric heaters: convectors, oil or ceramic radiators. The heat source power of 1 kW will allow you to set the required comfortable temperature on a balcony up to 4m2. . With a larger balcony area, it is recommended to use two heat sources with a power of 1 kW each for more uniform heating of the entire volume and walls of the insulated balcony.
Today materials for the organization of a "warm floor" have become available. The power consumption of a heated floor made with a heating cable for a standard balcony (up to 4 m 2) will be approximately 1 kW.
Read more about this in the article "Installation of a warm floor under a tile."
If you are using an individual heating system, consider water radiators on an insulated balcony.
And now! .. You have already read about how to insulate a balcony with your own hands! Read more in other sources! After all, it is still possible to insulate the balcony from the inside with clapboard ... And with liquid insulation ...
Now it remains to decide on the option, the better to insulate the balcony inside, or choose several in order to calculate how much it costs to insulate the balcony.
Yes, more! Entrust the process of balcony glazing to the "pros" - why risk expensive structures, as well as people and cars moving under your balcony.
What materials for warming a balcony or loggia will effectively cope with the task? I suggest you consider 5 heat insulators with which I happened to work. I will tell you on what qualities they are selected and why they are considered the best.
Types of thermal insulation materials
Balcony insulation can be performed with the following heat-insulating materials:
Option 1: mineral wool
Mineral wool is a rolled or slab material, which consists of fine mineral fibers. The latter are obtained by melting and spraying rocks or blast-furnace slag.
Characteristics:
To insulate the balcony from the inside in a frame way, you can use glass wool, which is cheaper than basalt wool. In this case, during its installation, it is necessary to carefully protect the respiratory organs, eyes and hands.
Advantages:
- Versatility. Basalt wool can be used to insulate the balcony inside and out. Moreover, the insulation of surfaces can be carried out both in a frame way and wet:
- Let me remind you that for frame insulation, panel or sheet finishing materials are used - drywall, plastic panels, lining, siding, etc.;
- When finishing with a wet method, the surface of the insulation is plastered;
- Plates of high density grades can even be laid under a screed for floor insulation;
- Environmental friendliness. Basalt wool does not contain harmful substances, and even during installation, unlike glass wool, it practically does not cause skin irritation;
- Vapor permeability. Insulation allows the walls to "breathe", thanks to which a favorable microclimate is formed in the room;
- Fire safety. Mineral wool does not burn and can withstand high temperatures.
Disadvantages:
- Absorbs moisture. When performing work on insulation, it is necessary to ensure high-quality vapor and waterproofing;
- Price. The price of basalt wool is higher than some other heaters.
Price:
Expanded polystyrene is a lightweight polymer insulation, one of the most common heat-insulating materials due to its low price.
Option 2: Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene, or simply polystyrene, is a polymer insulation in the form of plates formed by small granules.
Characteristics:
Advantages:
- Light weight. Styrofoam is the lightest slab insulation;
- Low price. The cost is much lower than the price of basalt wool;
- Versatility. Like basalt wool, it can be used for insulation in any way, both from the inside and outside;
- Moisture resistant. The material absorbs moisture to a lesser extent than mineral wool.
Disadvantages:
- Zero vapor permeability. This disadvantage can lead to an increase in indoor humidity, mold on the walls, etc. High-quality ventilation will help to eliminate it;
- Fire hazard. Styrofoam manufacturers, especially little-known ones, rarely add fire retardants to the foam polystyrene composition. Therefore, it ignites quite easily and burns well;
- Low strength and brittleness. This drawback matters if the insulation boards are plastered after installation. Surfaces insulated in this way are unstable to shock loads;
- Low environmental friendliness. Styrofoam itself does not threaten health in any way, but in the process of burning it releases toxins. Inhalation of these substances leads to severe poisoning.
Price:
Option 3: Extruded Styrofoam
Extruded polystyrene foam, also known as polystyrene foam, is made from the same raw materials as regular foam. However, thanks to a special insulation technology, it has higher characteristics.
Characteristics:
Advantages. From the data in the table it can be seen that the penoplex has a low thermal conductivity and high strength. In addition, it has some other advantages:
- Moisture resistance: Penoplex absolutely does not absorb water, therefore it does not need waterproofing;
- Fire safety. All well-known manufacturers add flame retardants to the composition of this material, which makes the insulation for the balcony low-flammable.
Disadvantages:
- High price. For this reason, it makes sense to use penoplex only in cases where a large load will be placed on it, for example, in the case of wet insulation of walls and ceilings. You can also perform thermal insulation of the floor under the screed;
- Low vapor permeability. The vapor permeability coefficient of foam plastic is slightly higher than that of polystyrene, however, the material is still not "breathable".
Price:
Option 4: polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is another type of polymer insulation. Its main feature is that it is applied to the surface in the form of foam.
Characteristics:
Polyurethane foam is also used for insulating balconies in the form of mounting foam. With its help, thermal insulation of various cracks is performed.
Advantages:
- Low thermal conductivity. As can be seen from the table, polyurethane foam has the lowest thermal conductivity. In addition, it is applied to the surface in a continuous layer, due to which it retains heat in the room more efficiently;
- Moisture resistant. Thanks to this quality, it does not require the use of waterproofing;
- Good adhesion. This allows you to apply insulation on any surface.
Disadvantages.
- Requires special equipment. Polyurethane foam cannot be applied by hand. This procedure should be carried out exclusively by highly qualified specialists with special equipment;
- Zero vapor permeability. Like other polymeric heaters, the material does not breathe;
- Increase in thermal conductivity over time. The gas that fills the structure of the polyurethane foam gradually leaves the shell. As a result, its thermal conductivity increases slightly;
- High price. In addition to the cost of the material itself, the cost of insulation work is added to its price;
- The impossibility of plastering. To finish the balcony from the inside or outside, in the case of using polyurethane foam, it is possible only in the frame way;
- Toxic in liquid form. When working with polyurethane, it is necessary to use personal protective equipment, as it is toxic. After hardening, the material is safe for health.
Price. Different manufacturers have different prices for polyurethane foam insulation. On average, the cost, taking into account work, is about 500 rubles. for 1m2
Option 5: penofol
Penofol is a thin roll insulation, which consists of two layers:
- Foamed polyethylene - performs the function of a heat-insulating material;
- Foil - reflects heat from insulated surfaces into the room.
Thus, this material is used only for internal insulation of balconies and loggias.
Characteristics:
Advantages:
- Little weight. The material is easily attached to any structure;
- Moisture resistant. This allows you to use penofol as a waterproofing material if, for example, you insulate a balcony or loggia with mineral wool;
- Small thickness. Due to this, the material does not take up additional space in the room.
Instructions for the use of penofol require its location during installation with the foil side to the room. Otherwise, the material will not reflect heat from the surfaces.
Disadvantages:
- Zero vapor permeability. I have already spoken of the consequences of this deficiency;
- High thermal conductivity. Penofol is a thin material, so it is not enough to fully insulate the room. Therefore, it is usually used as additional thermal insulation.
Price. The price starts from 50-80 rubles per 1m2.
That's all the heaters that I wanted to acquaint you with. Well, to decide how and how best to insulate the balcony, you now have to do it yourself.
Output
Now you know all the basic qualities of the most common thermal insulation materials, and you can make the right choice yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you have any questions, write comments, and I will answer as soon as possible.
The presence of a loggia gives the owner of a city apartment a lot of significant advantages. And the most important of them is the opportunity to expand your possessions with additional square meters. True, for this it will be necessary to work - but in any case, a considerable gain is achieved, especially considering how much one "square" of usable area costs in our time.
The shortage of residential meters is an urgent problem for many residents of high-rise buildings. Unlike a private house, which can be expanded by adding new rooms or even a second floor, it is almost impossible to increase the size of an apartment without resorting to an exchange. The only way out in this case is to insulate the loggia or balcony.
Do-it-yourself loggia insulation today is the only possible option for increasing living space in an apartment building. Let us consider in more detail the whole process of turning the loggia into a full-fledged room. Before you insulate the loggia with your own hands, you should draw up a phased work plan.
Design features of the loggia
The balcony is a remote design, and the loggia is built-inMany people consider the architectural terms "loggia" and "balcony" to be synonymous. However, this is far from being the case: these two architectural elements have a different design, although they have the same purpose. Therefore, the insulation of the loggia is somewhat different from the insulation of the balcony.
The balcony is a remote structure, located on the balcony slab, protruding beyond the boundaries of the facade of the house. The loggia is structurally a niche, as if "recessed" in the depths of the facade and occupying most of the outer wall of the apartment. Accordingly, at the balcony three sides are external, while at the loggia only the front part faces the street. Therefore, warming loggias with your own hands will require less time, effort and money.
Stages of work on thermal insulation
Loggia insulation
So, we warm the loggia with our own hands. The whole complex of works is carried out in several steps - only in this case it is possible to ensure high-quality insulation of the loggia. The entire workflow consists of the following steps:
- façade glazing;
- sealing seams and joints;
- waterproofing device;
- installation of a heater;
- wiring of heating, electricity and other communications;
- decorative finish.
In order for the thermal insulation of the loggia to be as effective as possible, an integrated approach to work is necessary. If you neglect any of the stages of thermal insulation, you can put all your work down the drain.
Glazing
If the loggia will not be used in winter, choose cold glazing High-quality glazing is one of the main conditions for turning a loggia into a warm room. From the thermal insulation performance of the window group, almost 50% depend on heat loss from the interior.
Facade glazing can be both warm and cold. Cold is, as a rule, single-layer - that is, it consists of a wooden frame with one layer of glass or a single-chamber double-glazed window. The main task of such systems is protection from street dust and rain. Due to the high level of heat loss, such structures cannot act as thermal insulation. This will require the installation of special warm glazing.
Warm glazing provides for the installation of more frost-resistant systems. These are two-frame wooden windows or multi-chamber double-glazed windows of plastic windows. Warm windows, in addition to excellent thermal insulation properties, have a number of additional advantages:
- high levels of sound insulation;
- good waterproofing;
- excellent protection against street dust.
Parapet reinforcement
Strengthening the parapet will be useful in order for the loggia to withstand the loads increased by the installation of double-glazed windows But, like any other design, warm windows have their drawback - a large mass. Therefore, before installing them, you must make sure that the enclosing parapet can support their weight. If there is any doubt about the bearing capacity of the fence, it is recommended to make its additional reinforcement.
The easiest way to do this is with metal corners, tubes or fittings. To do this, using a perforator, we clean small areas of the surface of the carrier plate in such a way that part of its reinforcement is exposed. We make holes in the slab every 1 - 1.5 m, depending on the thickness of the metal profile used. Metal reinforcement racks are welded to the reinforcement of the slab, which are connected at the top with a steel angle or channel.
The bearing concrete slab is designed for a certain load, therefore, when reinforcing the parapet, excessively massive metal profiles should not be used.
Setting up window groups
When choosing window groups for a loggia, you need to focus on the minimum winter temperatures in your area. So, for example, the thermal insulation properties of double-glazed windows will be quite enough for the Krasnodar Territory or the Crimea, but for Siberia it will be necessary to choose glazing with 4-6 cameras.
Since the installation of windows, especially plastic systems, is a rather complicated job that requires special qualifications, it should be entrusted to professionals.
You should not save on this important work and try to install the glazing yourself: poor-quality work can lead to a number of problems in the winter months.
Preparing the loggia for the installation of insulation
Wall putty instructions
As before any finishing work, before installing the insulation, the necessary preparation of the internal surfaces should be made. This includes:
- Cleaning walls and ceilings from the remnants of old finishing materials.
- Installation of waterproofing.
Wall and ceiling cleaning
The next stage after the glazing of the facade is the cleaning of the internal surfaces from the old whitewashing and painting. Using a scraper or a metal spatula, we remove all flaky and fragile trim elements.
Particular attention in this work should be paid if you decide to fix the insulation sheets with an adhesive. If the walls or ceiling are covered with smooth oil enamel, it is also advisable to remove it with a scraper. If the paint is too tight, you can use a grinder to remove it or make notches on the surface with a construction pick or an old hatchet.
With this, it is possible to significantly improve the adhesion of the adhesive composition to the surface when sticking sheets of insulation.
Sealing cracks and crevices
Be sure to seal the cracks so that the cold does not get inside The next step is to carefully seal all joints and cracks. This will prevent cold winter air from entering the room, which is fraught with the formation of condensation between the insulation layer and the wall. And this, in turn, leads to the appearance of mold and fungus.
To seal small cracks, you can use ready-made putties or dry putty mixes, the choice of which is quite large in any building supermarket. Large gaps can be sealed with mounting foam or cement mortar (plaster or concrete).
Waterproofing will protect the insulation from moisture and mold Waterproofing is another important stage in the preparation of internal surfaces for the installation of insulation. Its purpose is to protect the loggia from the penetration of moisture from the outside through the smallest pores of concrete or brick. And this is again the accumulation of moisture under the insulation, mold and fungus.
For waterproofing, bitumen-based roll materials can be used. This is a well-known roofing material and its modern derivatives. Sheets of roofing material with the help of special bituminous mastics are pasted over the inner surfaces of the outer walls, the upper and lower concrete slabs, that is, the floor and ceiling of the future room. Joints of sheets of roofing material should overlap and be well smeared with glue or mastic. 
For the same purposes, you can use special liquid mastics on a bitumen or polymer base, which, after being applied to the wall surface, harden, forming a moisture-proof film. Such mastics are applied with a brush or roller.
The work on their application should be carried out at positive temperatures so that the composition lays down evenly, covering the wall with a thin layer.
Ceiling insulation
After carrying out all the preparatory work, we proceed to work on the direct insulation of the room. For more information on ceiling insulation, see this video:
Penofol Some apartment owners do not take the insulation of the ceiling slab seriously enough. But, in this case, huge heat losses through the concrete ceiling slab can negate all your work on turning the loggia into a full-fledged interior room.
- penoplex (extrusive polystyrene foam);
- penofol (foil polyethylene foam);
- mineral wool.
Frame device
The thickness of the lathing bars must correspond to the thickness of the insulation Before you start fixing the foam to the ceiling, you should install the frame. It will later serve as the basis for covering the ceiling with decorative panels or drywall. To do this, you can use wooden bars of the required thickness.
The thickness of the bars should match the thickness of the insulation that you are going to attach to the ceiling slab. You can also use a metal profile for drywall as frame elements.
Attach wooden bars to the ceiling with dowels Bars or elements of a metal profile are attached to a concrete slab by means of dowel-nails or metal hangers. First, longitudinal elements are attached, running along the loggia. They should be mounted in at least three rows - two threads along the walls and one in the center.
For the standard width of typical loggias of one meter, this will be quite enough. After that, we proceed to the installation of the transverse elements, attaching them every 0.5 m. As a result, we get a frame in the form of cells measuring 0.5 x 0.5 meters. If it is planned to sheathe the ceiling with materials that are stronger than drywall, then the step of the transverse bars can be increased to 1 m. We insert a heater cut to the desired size into the resulting cells.
The same frame is created for other insulated surfaces - walls and floors.
Styrofoam and foam
Styrofoam as a heater is suitable for drywall or chipboard Styrofoam is produced in sheets and can have different densities. Lighter and less dense foam should be used if you are going to use drywall sheets, plastic panels, chipboard, etc. as a finish.
If you are going to putty the ceiling and paint it, then it would be best to use a denser type of foam - with a density of about 25 kg per cubic meter. Such sheets are quite durable and more resistant to external influences.
Styrofoam can be attached to a concrete slab in two main ways:
- With the help of polymer or cement adhesives.
- Fasteners - suspensions and dowels.
Glue is applied around the perimeter and in the center In the case of using adhesive compositions, the surface of the plate must be thoroughly cleaned of various contaminants, dust, peeling paint, plaster and whitewash. The foam sheet is cut to size. Construction adhesive is applied in a thin layer around the entire perimeter of the foam sheet, as well as pointwise in several places along its center. After that, the sheet is inserted into the frame cell.
Styrofoam dowels Another option for attaching foam sheets is with plastic dowel-nails with a wide hat. To do this, we insert the prepared foam into the frame and, using a perforator, make holes in the plate for the dowel in several places, through it.
We insert the dowels into the holes and fix them by hammering plastic nails-pins into them. For 1 sq. m sheet of foam will be quite enough 4 - 6 dowel-nails. In exactly the same way, foam plastic is installed in the frame, which has a higher density than foam.
All joints between sheets of insulation should be carefully puttied to avoid possible heat loss.
Penofol
Air bubbles inside the insulation significantly reduce thermal conductivity This heater is a novelty in our market. Its main feature is excellent thermal insulation qualities with a thickness of only 5 - 10 mm. Penofol consists of foamed polyethylene foam, on which metal foil is glued on one or both sides.
The polyethylene base is a foamed polymer containing closed air bubbles, which significantly reduces its thermal conductivity. The function of the foil is to reflect heat radiation. As a result, penofol 0.5 cm thick can replace a 10 cm layer of mineral wool.
Do not press the penofol tightly against the wall, there should be a gap between it and the surface The peculiarity of fixing penofol is that there must be some distance between it and the outer skin. It is not allowed to press it to the base - in this case, its thickness decreases sharply, and the thermal conductivity increases.
To avoid this, penofol should be mounted on special U-shaped hangers or crates. In this case, the material is covered on the first, longitudinal layer of the rails and pressed against the second, transverse layer.
The foil side must always face the inside of the room.
mineral wool
Mineral wool can be made from glass or stone fibers and come in rolls or slabs. Its density can also be very different, and the method of its attachment to the base depends on this. On the insulation of the balcony with mineral wool and penoplex with your own hands, see this video:
The main disadvantage of mineral wool is hydrophobicity. Less dense rolled mineral wool is attached mainly with the help of rails that press it against the surface of the slab or wall. More dense mineral slabs can be mounted using plastic dowel-nails.
It is categorically not recommended to use adhesive compositions for fixing mineral wool - due to its ability to delaminate easily, the adhesive connection will not be reliable.
Among the main disadvantages of this material can be noted its hydrophobicity. It tends to absorb and accumulate dampness. When wet, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation qualities, and also breaks up into individual fibers and deforms. For an expert opinion on whether mineral wool is dusty, see this video:
Another not very pleasant feature of mineral wool is the release of a large amount of mineral dust during operation. Dust, getting on the skin and mucous membranes, can cause severe allergic reactions in the form of itching and burning.
Therefore, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to use protective equipment: tight overalls, a respirator, goggles and gloves.
Insulation of floors and walls
Insulation of the floor and external walls of the loggia is carried out in approximately the same way as the ceilings. Initially, a frame crate is constructed, into the cells of which the insulating material is inserted. True, these works have their own characteristics.
Exterior walls
When constructing a thermal circuit on a loggia, it is necessary to insulate not only the external fence-parapet, but also the side walls. Especially if these walls are external, and not shared with internal rooms.
External insulation prevents freezing If the front part of the loggia is insulated according to all building rules, then the insulation must be attached to the parapet from the outside. In this case, freezing of a concrete or brick wall is excluded, and the so-called “dew point”, the place where condensation forms when warm and cold air collides, shifts outward.
If, however, we insulate from the inside of the room, then condensate will form between the wall and the layer of insulation - to protect against this, the waterproofing arranged by us earlier serves.
Thermal insulation of the loggia facade will require obtaining permission from the architectural committee But the insulation of the front part is far from always possible. Firstly, it requires the availability of special equipment and a team of trained professionals. Secondly, for such work, permission should be obtained from the architectural committee of the city and from the managing organization, since the facade of the building is common property.
And if it goes to the main street, then unauthorized violation of the unified architectural appearance of the building by installing insulation on the walls can be considered as an administrative offense.
floors
Lags for the floor are made from thicker bars Insulation of floors is desirable to produce denser types of insulation. Dense foam or extruded polystyrene foam is excellent for these purposes.
Before laying the insulation on the floor, you should also mount the frame, the cells of which will be filled with insulation. But, unlike the frame on the ceiling and on the walls, on the floor it should be made of thicker and more durable bars, and the step between them should be reduced to 0.5 m. This will allow the flooring to withstand the weight of several people and the furniture that will be placed in room.
On top of the insulation, you can also mount a warm infrared floor, which will perfectly heat the loggia A floor covering in the form of thick plywood or boards is mounted on the frame. From above, they can be covered with laminate, parquet and other decorative elements.
Another option for floor insulation is the creation of a concrete screed over the insulation. For this, foam plastic is ideal, having a density of up to 35 kg per cubic meter, which is twice the density of foam. In this case, you can do without mounting the frame.
Penoplex is laid in two or three layers directly on the base plate in such a way that the joints of the sheets of the two layers do not coincide with each other. A fiberglass plaster mesh is glued on top of the sheets or reinforcement is made in the form of thin metal bars. After that, a layer of concrete mortar or ready-made self-leveling floors is poured and leveled.
Ceramic or granite tiles, laminate, etc. can be used as a finishing floor covering.
Line of communications
An option for heating a loggia can be a water heated floor In order for the loggia to become truly warm, heating will be required here. It should be said right away that you should not try to install heating radiators here and connect them to the central heating system. According to the operating standards of apartment buildings, the owner of the apartment does not have the right to arbitrarily make changes to the contours of the heating system.
Therefore, the most realistic option would be the installation of electric heating systems. In this case, “warm floors” proved to be the best. This system consists of insulated wires that, when connected to the power supply, begin to heat up. As a result, the floor of the room is heated, and the air is already heated from it.
Rolled underfloor heating is convenient for quick installation The main advantage of the underfloor heating system is that the most comfortable temperature here is created in the lower half of the room, where people usually stay. Underfloor heating can be produced in two versions:
- In the form of insulated wires, which are intended for shelter in the thickness of the concrete screed.
- In the form of ready-made rolls that can be laid directly under the floor covering.
Among other effective options for heating the loggia are infrared refractors. In this case, the room is heated by infrared radiation, which transfers thermal energy to the internal surfaces of the room, from which the air is heated.
Such heaters are placed for greater efficiency on the ceiling or on the walls and can be made in the form of panels or a special film.
decorative trim
Drywall will allow you to create multi-level surfaces After all the work on the insulation of the loggia has been completed, you can proceed to the final stage of work - to the decorative finish. As a material for finishing a new warm room, you can choose exactly the same one that is used to finish the rest of the rooms in the apartment.
The most functional option is drywall. With it, you can create any decorative surfaces and structures: from multi-level suspended ceilings to arched entrance groups and decorative niches.
Plastic wall panels, suspended ceilings made of PVC will also look good. Among the latest innovations, it is possible to note the finish with an array of cork wood. Do not lose their relevance and classic finishes in the form of various types of wallpaper or wooden slats - lining.
In general, there are a lot of options for decorative finishes. Therefore, the choice of style, design and material can be left to the taste of the owner of the apartment. The main thing is that the design of the new room completely suits the owner, then this albeit small room can become a favorite corner for relaxing or working.
September 4, 2016Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.
I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But the right choice of thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the events.
And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions that I give below will tell you how to choose the right material for insulation yourself.
Requirements for heaters
Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.
So, what is worth paying attention to:
- Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of the room will be saved.
- Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
- Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
- Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
- Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.
Characteristics of individual types of insulation
So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.
Styrofoam
Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.
Specifications
I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:
- Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.
I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.
- Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.
Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.
The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.
- Strength. For insulation, construction foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.
In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would simultaneously protect the insulation layer from mechanical damage.
The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.
- Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.
However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.
All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its thorough protection.
- Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.
Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.
- Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.
As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is also fine here, since the use of freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet, was abandoned in the production of insulation. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.
However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:
- benzene;
- toluene;
- formaldehydes;
- methyl alcohol;
- acetophenone and so on.
But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.
- Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.
When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.
Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter "C"). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.
In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.
- Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.
First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.
As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.
Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:
- For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
- Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
- Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
- To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
- If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.
Penoplex
I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.
Specifications
The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. The essence of the technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.
For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.
After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.
As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:
- polystyrene;
- ground perlite;
- sodium bicarbonate;
- lemon acid;
- barium stearate;
- tetrabromoparaxylene.
The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.
The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).
The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:
As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.
If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:
- Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
- Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
- Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
- Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
- Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
- Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.
To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.
Marking methods
There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.
| Marking | Scope of application |
| Penoplex 31 | Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines. |
| Penoplex 31C | A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited. |
| Penoplex 35 | Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed. |
| Penoplex 45 | Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor. |
| Penoplex 45C | Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial buildings. |
However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.
| Name | Density, kg/cu.m. | Purpose |
| Wall | 25-32 | It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level. |
| Foundation | 29-33 | It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit. |
| Roof | 28-33 | It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load. |
| Comfort | 25-35 | Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity. |
If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.
Basalt wool
Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.
This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.
Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.
After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.
Specifications
I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:
- Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).
In order for you to understand what is at stake, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. Silicate brick will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.
- Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.
This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.
So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.
- Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.
The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.
- Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.
Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.
The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.
- Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.
Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.
- Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.
As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.
Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.
- Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.
So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.
- Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.
But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.
In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.
Material disadvantages
So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:
- high cost of insulation;
- the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
- the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
- high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.
Summary
Now you have all the necessary information to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.
September 4, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!