Make a sentence with the word "garden" in different meanings. Garden planning - getting ready to plant vegetables in the beds

To begin with, it will not be superfluous to check how protected your shrubs and trees are from bright sunlight. In the winter-autumn period, it is necessary to provide the plants with good shelter - this will help keep the bark healthy. For this, the trunks are wrapped nonwovens, bushes are covered with spruce paws. You can remove covering materials around the middle of spring, waiting for the snow to melt and the sharp temperature drop to stop.

Spring work in the gardens necessarily includes pruning trees, cutting bushes. These measures are recommended to be performed before the buds of the trees swell and the movement of juices under the bark begins.

How to get started in the garden

Primary work often begins with cleaning - accumulated debris is removed from flower beds and ridges. If larvae and insects are found, it is necessary to remove them - this will help reduce the number of pests that will soon appear on the ridges.

Organic fertilizers are applied to the soil. This helps to saturate the soil with nutrients, which will subsequently have a beneficial effect on obtaining a crop. Depending on the condition of the soil on the site, fertilizers, humus, purchased peat or compost prepared in advance are introduced into it. For heavy soils, the introduction of coarse sand or fine gravel is recommended - this helps to add airiness to the soil and prevent stagnation of moisture near the roots. Clay is added to crumbly soil in order to retain moisture in it longer and necessary for plants substances.

Works on lawns

If there are lawns on your site, they should be inspected, the grass combed with a rake, if there are potholes, they are filled with earth mixed with sand. The surface of the lawn is leveled and sprinkled fine sand. If there are bald spots in the lawn, seeds are planted in these areas.

Other events

In flowerbeds and ridges, the soil is loosened - a depth of 5-10 cm is sufficient. During traditional digging, nutrients go deep into the ground, and the soil structure is disturbed. When loosening the soil, it turns out to be porous, more suitable for the development of plants.

When withdrawing protective coating from sheltered to winter period plants must be handled with caution. To begin with, loosen the strapping. Then when the temperature environment slightly rise, dense winter shelter should be changed. The fabric is selected more permeable to light and air - it can be agrospan, lutrasil, and so on.

If whitewashing of trunks is regularly performed on your site, remember that seedlings do not need it. On the contrary, bleaching the bark of a seedling often leads to clogging of the pores, which reduces the rate of development of the plant.

As the earth warms up, it will be possible to move on to other work, including planting and caring for them, ennobling the site.

And the main advantage of this salad was that it would not run out in my garden.

My trees suffered, the vegetables in the garden suffered, but the caterpillars had a holiday, because the gardener sat at the table all day long, wrote, crossed out and wrote again, biting his tongue from diligence, like a small child - he wanted to express the most important thing, the most important thing, convey to his friend himself entirely in all his distinct authenticity.

They had small house, garden and field.

At that time, he appetizingly ate cabbage in the garden near the Crooked Cob.

But, since we know for certain that he fought and was captured by the Tatars, most likely he was a serf who rode a horse, and did not work with a shovel in the garden.

I walked with quick steps through these dull, gloomy streets; only occasionally did my eye catch a lawn with stunted grass, looking like an old shabby carpet or some kind of kitchen garden, where lean lettuce, potatoes and cabbage grow in such miserable quantities that these vegetables would only be enough for the table of midgets; a few frail left-handers were reaching for the sun.

The stranger began to use agricultural tools and worked in the garden.

The plateau was at that time big garden carefully planned and maintained in in perfect order, and the colonists did not have to sit idle.

It was more expedient to take the Distant View plateau, surrounded by a deep belt of streams, for a vegetable garden, and to take out meadows beyond its borders, which did not need protection from the devastating raids of four-legged and four-armed ones.

Before, she sowed hemp in the garden, took the manners, crushed the hemp: everything was easy.

I settled in the vicinity of Bayona, on my own small farm, I take care of the household, I got a cow, chickens, rabbits, I dig in the garden and in the garden.

Goldfinches sat on dry burdocks in the garden.

For some reason, the owner abandoned it: a small estate with a tall poplar tree over a thatched hut roof, with weeds in the garden, was slowly falling into disrepair.

Anna Pavlovna screamed with good obscenities and covered her face with her hands, and her son ran across the whole house, jumped out into the yard, rushed into the garden, into the garden, through the garden flew out onto the road and kept running without looking back, until, finally, he stopped hearing the heavy clatter behind him. his father's steps and his intensified, broken cries.

The vast ashes turned into a garden, in some places cluttered with piles of bricks, the remnants of former foundations.

Stepushka did not even live with the gardener: he lived, hovered in the garden.

A newly cleared path soon led us out of the linden grove; we entered the garden.

Animal farm, garden, vegetable garden, mowing, fields, divided into several departments, were to be separate articles.

Having traveled about three versts and passing the last Russian troops, near a garden dug in by a ditch, Rostov saw two horsemen standing opposite the ditch.

One, with a white sultan on his hat, seemed somehow familiar to Rostov; another, an unfamiliar rider, on a beautiful red horse (this horse seemed familiar to Rostov) rode up to the ditch, pushed the horse with his spurs and, releasing the reins, easily jumped over the ditch of the garden.

The ground in the garden, like a poppy, turned black with a glossy wetness, and at a short distance merged with a dull and damp cover of fog.

Fortunately, a commandant of enormous stature, a sailor, was appointed to help him, who had been at the mortars since the beginning of the siege and convinced him of the possibility of still acting from them, with a lantern led him around the bastion at night, just like in his garden, and promised everything by tomorrow arrange.

Going to the wide open door, she stopped on the threshold and looked around her garden - beds of tomatoes overgrown with dope.

She approached open door and, standing on the threshold, vigilantly peered into her garden - tomatoes overgrown with weeds.

Yard two acres, fenced with poles; and in order to climb over the fence and to make it easier for women to get on a horse, stumps of logs are substituted for it with a ladder, like barrels different heights; in some places thin grass grows in the yard, but there are more bare and trampled bald patches, like an old hat with a worn pile; for whites big house in two halves, from hewn logs, the cracks are smeared with clay or lime, and whitewashed on top - only it can be seen that a very long time ago; a kitchen of unhewn logs is connected to the house by a long and wide shed; behind the kitchen is a log smokehouse; on the other side of the smokehouse there were three low Negro huts lined up in a row; one small hut stands alone on one side of the yard, right next to the fence, and on the other side there are various services; next to the hut there is a pile of ashes and a large cauldron for making soap; near kitchen door a bench with a bucket of water and a pumpkin flask; right next to it, a dog sleeps in the sun; further - more dogs; in the corner of the yard are three shady trees; currant and gooseberry bushes near the fence; behind the fence there is a vegetable garden and watermelon melons; and beyond the cotton plantations, and beyond the plantations, the forest.

And one of these days, after that, he started a whole conversation over trifles - because I stole a watermelon from a black man's garden and ate it.

Aunt Sally began to put the children to bed, Tom and I got bored, and we went for a walk in the moonlight, wandered into the garden, picked a watermelon and ate it while talking.

Aksinya, without taking a breath, reached the Melekhovsky garden.

Empty and wild, as on a forgotten threshing floor that had been poisoned by swan and weeds, became Aksinya's soul after she came from the Melekhovsky vegetable garden, from the sunflowers.

He chopped dung and boiled millet porridge in the garden, hastily tied up the soaked strings of hooks.

It is appropriate to note here that, using modern systems communications, in particular the Internet, you can get turnkey solution, and all that remains is to link the plan to a specific site. If for any reason you feel inappropriate use dry technologies in such a lively business as gardening, or if you prefer paper and pencil the old fashioned way, then proceed in the following way.

1. Draw a plan of your site, put on it everything that is already on it - a house, a garage, a barn and what you intend to keep, such as fruit trees, mixborders, a pool, etc. As a result, you will get a kind of matrix, shape, to be filled with content. We recommend making several copies of the plan.

2. Break the site into functional zones (this recommendation is especially relevant for those who are developing the site, as they say, from scratch), which will help you determine how much area you can allocate for each of them (under the house, hozblok, garden, vegetable garden, nursery or sports ground, barbecue and recreation area). For greater accuracy, indicate the shadow that existing or future buildings will give. You will get a real picture, which will indicate areas that are partly or throughout the day lit by the sun, in partial shade or in complete darkness. This will help to rationally place vegetable crops. Most often, gardeners reproduce on their site what they have already seen somewhere and were so delighted that they decided without fail to start something similar at home. Blindly imitating even magnificent samples is still not worth it, because everything is so individual that what “works” in one place may turn out to be alien in another.

3. Get straight into planning. Believe me, this is the key to successful gardening. This is where the most difficult thing begins, since it is necessary to take into account the illumination, the presence of a source of water, and the relief, etc. Here we again allow ourselves to remind you of modern technologies if you are comfortable with the computer. If not, then the task will be facilitated by this technique: cut paper into circles, squares, rectangles, and the like. geometric figures, which will symbolize beds, trenches, etc. On each of them write the name of a vegetable crop and an object (for example, compost bin, a barrel for water, etc.), which will be located on the territory of the garden. With a plan in hand, start placing your conditional beds and everything else on it. Moving them is much more convenient than repeatedly redrawing the plan or (God forbid!) running around the garden with a shovel, trying to reproduce the plan on the ground.

In doing so, remember that:

Radishes, dill, lettuce do not require separate beds. They feel good in the role of compactors, such as cabbage or carrots, between the rows of which they can be sown;

Beets, turnips, leafy mustard should be planted on both sides of the beds occupied by other crops (about which ones, the conversation is ahead);

climbing plants(beans, peas, beans) are good as borders, and certainly on the north side, so as not to obscure other plantings;

Pumpkin, zucchini and squash can be grown in a specially designated area for them or at the end of the beds (but in no case on a compost or manure heap).

4. Gardening will be successful if you adhere to the rule of planting and sowing only those vegetables that were planned. At the same time, you need to calculate how many and what crops to plant, how many ridges to prepare. Main criterion- your needs. In addition, one must take into account such a moment: how many people are in your family, as well as the yield of certain horticultural crops per unit area. Having clarified this issue, it remains only to determine whether there is enough space in the garden for the whole. It is possible that you will have to give up some vegetables and come to terms with the need to buy them in the market or in the store. But do not be upset, because by gaining experience and skills in caring for plants, cultivating the soil, improving the culture of agriculture, you will be able, without increasing, but on the contrary, reducing the area allotted for certain crops, to achieve large yields. And then the moment will come to return to the beds all that now had to be sacrificed.

In the meantime, you need to choose what to leave, in connection with which we propose to be guided by the following considerations:

The main criteria should be the conditions that exist or can be created on the site, and the natural and climatic zone in which it is located. It follows that the dropout candidates should be crops that require significant effort to grow. For example, without a heated greenhouse in the north, it is impossible to grow heat-loving plants, so cold-resistant vegetables should be preferred;

Keep in mind that it is easier to choose plants specifically for your site than to make a plant that requires a lot of light bear fruit in the shade with incredible efforts.

Finishing another one preparatory stage, it will be possible to return to the plan, place the beds on it, having previously indicated on the squares and rectangles the crops with which they will be occupied.

• 38.

By observing crop rotation in the garden, you solve several problems at once. First, by properly alternating plantings, you maintain a balance of nutrients in the soil. Secondly, you do not allow mono-pests that feed on only one type of plant to get the food they need. And, thirdly, the correct crop rotation allows you to diversify the design of the garden, because the same plants planted in the same place sooner or later get bored anyway.

Crop rotation for personal plot, i.e., the alternation of grown plants on the same bed, refers to an important agricultural technique, on which the success of gardening depends.

To find out what can be planted after that, taking into account proper crop rotation please read this material carefully.

The need for crop rotation

The need for crop rotation suburban area dictated by the mediated interaction of plants with each other - through the soil.

The schemes and system of crop rotation of vegetable crops in the garden allow you to maintain soil fertility at the right level and, in addition, help prevent diseases and reduce the number of pests.

Each gardener must know the length of the period during which one garden plant can be grown in the same place.

First of all, it depends on how sensitive the crops are to their own root secretions remaining in the ground.

Good tolerance of own root secretions is observed in corn, rye, beans, leeks.

Beet at mixed landings can be grown in the same place only 3 years in a row (other plants process beet secretions), however, this is impossible with monocultivation, since unabsorbed root secretions of this crop will poison it.

Crop rotation in the summer cottage allows you to maintain the balance of soil nutrients. For successful growth different vegetable crops need a predominance of various substances. For example, leafy crops such as cabbage, lettuce, celery need nitrogen, root crops (, beets,) need phosphorus, and fruit crops(pumpkin, beans, tomatoes, cucumbers) - in potassium.

Each plant grown on the site takes from the soil to a certain amount nutrients, attracts pests. In the event that crop rotation rules are ignored, and the same crop is grown on a certain piece of land for a long time (for example, for 4-5 years), the soil is quickly depleted, its micro- and macrobalance is disturbed, and the pest spreads massively. And, of course, the yield is declining.

Even perennials in development there is a period of maximum "productivity", after which a significant decrease in yield is noticeable. As a result, the plant has to be transplanted to another place.

For many years, practicing horticulturists and gardeners have put forward various ideas how best to perform rotation in the area of ​​crops. The most simple circuit crop rotation in the garden should meet one important condition: annual crops are grown in the same place for no more than 1 year.

AT complex systems crop rotation of vegetable crops in the summer cottage are provided detailed plans alternation of plants in one area, calculated for a long period of time (for example, for 10 years).

One of the most common principles of crop rotation in the garden is the alternation of crops belonging to different families, and the alternation of groups of plants. There are 3 main groups: fruit, leaf and root crops.

In most cases, plants of the same family grow well in the same garden. But even here there are exceptions, since the success of co-cultivation of some crops also depends on specific conditions. For example, it is undesirable to plant plantings of potatoes, tomatoes and vegetable crops belonging to the umbrella family near related plants, since if crops are damaged by pests and diseases, the latter are likely to spread rapidly throughout the site.

Drawing up a crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops at their summer cottage

To make a crop rotation as it suggests correct agricultural technology, during the planting of certain crops, it is necessary to pay attention to the predecessor plants. When growing both fruits and vegetables belonging to the same family, pathogens and pests that affect plants of this particular group remain in the soil.

In order to exclude negative impact plants on top of each other, the next year it is necessary to change the place of their planting. Usually cultures are simply swapped for this. As a result, pests, not finding food, leave the garden or die. good predecessors may be the following cultures:

• for cabbage - carrots, cereals, cucumbers and potatoes;
• for carrots - cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, onions;
• for tomatoes, eggplants and bell peppers - cabbage, cucumbers, onions and greens;
• for beets - onions, potatoes and cucumbers;
• for zucchini and squash - carrots, onions, green;
• for cucumbers - tomatoes, cabbage, onions and greens;
• for potatoes - cabbage, beets and greens;
• for parsley - tomatoes, onions and cucumbers;
• for peas - cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers;
• for onions - cabbage, legumes, greens;
• for garlic - tomatoes, cabbage and greens;
• for pumpkins, and melons - legumes, root vegetables, onions and cabbage.

It is undesirable to grow crops that require an increased amount of nutrients (pumpkin, potatoes, cabbage, zucchini,) in one place for 2 years. This is explained by the fact that it is the content of nutrients that remain in the soil from plantings of the previous year that affects the development of crops.

Drawing up a crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops in the garden is carried out in several stages.

• Perform a detailed sketch of the site where it is planned to grow fruit and vegetable crops.
• The landing zones indicated in the figure are divided into 3 identical parts (if the scheme is calculated for 3 years).
• They choose the most justified crop rotation scheme under the given conditions - by groups or families of crops.
• Plantings are systematically monitored, the results are recorded and the information obtained is used in the further development of schemes.

An approximate scheme of crop rotation in a summer cottage by crop families:

• 1st year: cultures of the pumpkin family (pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini) or nightshade (tomatoes, bell pepper, eggplant) or onion, garlic;
• 2nd year: legumes (, beans);
• 3rd year: cruciferous (cabbage, parsley).

An approximate scheme of crop rotation in the garden by crop groups:

• 1st year: fruit crops (, pumpkin, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini), root crops (onions and) or cereals;
• 2nd year: root vegetables (carrots, beets, turnips, potatoes, parsnips, radishes);
• 3rd year: legumes (beans, beans, peas).

An ordinary garden is an amazing place, a special land plot, which, through the efforts of the owners, turns into an almost inexhaustible source of not only vitamins and fresh vegetables, but also a number of "by-products" - health, excellent health and vigor.

According to experienced summer residents, working in your own garden successfully replaces classes in the gym, brings a lot of pleasure and benefits. In addition, vegetables grown on their own plot differ in palatability from those bought in a store or on the market, and, of course, for the better.

Spring work on land plot start with an important task - garden planning. It would seem that my plot, what I want, I plant, and the choice is not too great - on a standard six acres, you won’t turn around too much. And yet, the harvest largely depends on the choice of a place for a certain variety of vegetables, so planning a garden should be approached with all responsibility.

What factors should you pay attention to when planning a garden? What vegetables and where is the best place to plant?

Working in the garden is not necessarily hard work and daily chores. Gardening brings a lot of pleasure and benefits

We plan the garden correctly

So, you have already prepared the seeds and even grown seedlings at home. It remains only to decide - where exactly to plant all the plants, choosing optimal location on your site for certain types of vegetables. Start planning your garden in early spring when the snow has completely melted off the site, and the soil has dried well.

In general, the planning of the site, which is done by a summer resident with many years of gardening experience, looks like this - the owner simply walks along the already equipped paths, leaving sticks and pegs in the ground and muttering to himself: “Here are two beds of pepper”, “And here there will be tomatoes” . In fact, it’s so easy to approach planning a garden for summer residents only years of experience work on the site. Less experienced gardeners it is worth listening to the advice of professionals and approaching the process of planning planting vegetables in a scientific way.

The ideal vegetable garden looks like this - even rows of green, healthy plants that promise a high yield.

If you first decided to plant a garden on a newly acquired piece of land, then you will have to take into account several main factors:

1. Sides of the world. Experts advise breaking beds for future planting strictly in length from north to south or from northeast to southwest. So planting plants will warm up and be illuminated by the sun's rays during the day as evenly as possible. It has been proven that with this arrangement of beds, plants are less susceptible to fungal diseases. The south, slightly warmer and better lit side should be given to heat-loving crops such as beans, tomatoes and cucumbers, and the north side to cold-resistant ones - radish, turnips and rutabaga. To protect plants from cold winds, it is better to plant dense rows of corn, sunflower or berry bushes, for example, gooseberries or currants.

1. Soil composition. If vegetables are planted in this area for the first time, it is necessary to study the composition of the soil. If the soil is clayey, you will need to first add straw manure, sand, compost, sod land and mineral fertilizers. If the soil is sandy, then peat, manure and mineral fertilizers will be ideal additives. When hyperacidity soil, it is necessary to make lime additives - quicklime or slaked lime, as well as wood ash. Of course, you can make all of the above additives in the fall, but experts call the optimal period for adjusting the composition of the soil early spring- about a month before planting seedlings and seeds.

1. Illumination. To influence the illumination of the site is possible only by cutting down existing trees. Planting seedlings under the lush crowns of apple or pear trees is not recommended categorically. Trees can only grow on the north side of the garden - so they will not cover the plants from the sun's rays and at the same time protect them from the cold wind. If there is a free plot of land on the north side of the house, it is better to plant there undemanding plants, for example, sorrel or onions, to which excess sun is even harmful. Tomatoes or cucumbers in the shade will definitely wither. It is even better to give such a northern front garden for flowers, since growing vegetables here is quite risky.

1. Site relief. If the site has an uneven terrain, then in the lowland the soil will thaw and dry much longer in the spring than the land on the hills. Besides, in heavy rain these areas will have water. That is, you need to take care of a system of drainage grooves that will help get rid of excess moisture. In such low-lying places, professionals advise planting cabbage and other moisture-loving plants. But, if summer in your region is usually dry and hot, then you can plant both tomatoes and peppers in lowland areas - in this case, you will have to water the seedlings a little less often.

If on the site where it is planned to set up a garden, before that only weeds grew and there was an ordinary lawn, the owners have two options: remove upper layer completely remove soil with weed roots and add peat, rotted manure and, if necessary, sand to the soil; or simply dig up the site and plant potatoes here in the first year. The first option is too time-consuming and expensive, therefore it is not popular with gardeners. In the second case, in the first year, the potato crop will be low, but most of weeds will disappear and the next season it will be possible to plant any, even the most fastidious vegetables.

When starting to plan a garden for the first time, it is worth considering both the characteristics of the soil and the location of the beds relative to the cardinal points.

Irrigation system

When planning a garden, you need to pay Special attention irrigation system. Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and eggplants in central regions with a fairly dry summer, you have to water regularly - literally every three to four days. Therefore, for vegetables, it is better to choose areas that can be watered without special costs and problems.

The minimum program is that hoses from an outdoor tap should reach the beds. If your plot of land is too large, and the tap is located next to the house, then in remote areas it is better to set up a garden or plant particularly resistant plants that do not need additional watering. In this case, it is better to move the garden closer to the water source.

Remember that experts do not advise watering the beds with water directly from the tap. The best option- water that has already been settled, warmed up in the sun, and even better - collected rain water, or water from a local pond or river. If you want to heed the advice of professionals, you will need to install a large enough container for water next to the beds - rain or regular, from the tap. Such a container can even become an old cast iron or steel bath, capacious, specially ordered metal vat or large plastic barrel. In addition, you will need a water pump that will lower into the tank and provide excellent pressure when watering. You can, of course, water the beds from a watering can, but this is too long a process.

Another great irrigation system option is drip irrigation. If your site already has such a system, then the planting of vegetables will have to be “tied” to the plots already provided with water.

Do not want to spend a lot of time watering vegetables by hand with a watering can or stand for hours in the garden with a hose in hand? Take care of the system drip irrigation which will save both time and money on water bills

Every vegetable has its place.

Have you figured out the cardinal points, lighting and watering? It remains only to find out all the nuances regarding the compatibility of individual varieties of vegetables and their alternation in your garden. Everyone experienced summer resident knows that if last year, for example, potatoes grew on this site, then this year it is worth planting some other vegetables.

So, all vegetable crops are usually divided into:

1. Demanding who need a large number of nutrients. These include cabbage, zucchini, cucumber, pumpkin, tomatoes, peppers, and celery.
2. Medium demanding. Such vegetables need top dressing with fertilizers only once a year, unlike demanding ones, which have to be “fed” both in spring and autumn. These vegetables include: eggplant, onions, potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes, lettuce, kohlrabi, and garlic.
3. Undemanding. Cultures that make do with the bare minimum useful substances. These are peas, beans, parsley, dill, sage, basil and other seasonings.

To correctly draw up a plan for planting seeds and seedlings, the garden should be divided into four sections:

1. Allocate one for perennials, for example, strawberries and strawberries, which will have to be replanted no more than once every three to four years.
2. The second site is allocated for demanding plants.
3. The third is for medium-demanding crops.
4. And the fourth, of course, for undemanding plants.

A year later, particularly fastidious plants must be planted in the area where undemanding crops grew, medium-demanding plants should be planted in a plot where demanding crops had already been harvested, and undemanding ones, respectively, are sent to the site where medium-demanding cultivated plants grew last year.

This rotation is carried out every year and allows the soil to rest a bit and get a higher yield.

Different levels of requirements for nutrients plants must be alternated with each other when planting a garden

In addition, when planning the location of the beds, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of plants. The compatibility of cultures lies in the ability to grow side by side, strengthening, complementing and protecting each other.

So, between the rows of tomatoes, it is quite possible to sow onions, garlic or radishes. An ideal "seal" for carrots or beets will be dill or lettuce. And the rows of potatoes can be combined with the planting of peas, which will be harvested earlier, and will “provide” their roots as an excellent fertilizer for potato tubers.

Experts say that the ideal predecessors for cabbage are nightshade, that is, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers or eggplants, as well as cucumbers, legumes or onions.

In turn, cucumber seedlings are best planted in the place where pepper or spinach grew last year. The optimal predecessor for carrots and beets are cucumbers, tomatoes and peas.

Another important point — different term maturation and planting of plants allows you to get two crops in one area different cultures. For example, in early spring, you can sow onions on a feather or radish, and after harvesting, plant them in this plot. gourds or tomatoes. After the garlic or onion has already been harvested, winter radish or lettuce will feel great in this area.

Plant compatibility is an important factor in garden planning.

Bed sizes

When planning a garden, do not forget about comfortable paths with a width of at least 30-40 centimeters, which will allow you to harvest tomatoes and peppers without harming flowering and fruiting plants.

The optimal width of the beds is 80-100 centimeters. If the bed is wider, it will make it difficult to care for plants and water.

If you lay not just dirt paths between the beds, but real paths made of stone or boards, then you can harvest even on the rainiest day or immediately after heavy watering, without fear of staining your shoes

In addition, do not forget that cucumbers grow better, bear fruit and occupy much space. less space if you provide them with a support on which they can curl. In this case, picking cucumbers will be much more convenient. Some varieties of tomatoes, such as tiny, delicious cherry tomatoes, also need support. Therefore, when planning beds with such tall and fragile crops, you need to take care of a fence or trellis on which cucumbers and high seedling tomatoes will be able to lean.

High-growing tomato shoots need support, and cucumbers creeping along the ground will take up too much space. Plant them near the hedge, and collect bountiful harvest It will be much more pleasant, and most importantly - easier!

And finally two more important moments- firstly, in the garden it is also necessary to leave a place for a compost heap, where you will throw off the remnants of shoots and leaves in the fall, which will become excellent in the future organic fertilizer. compost heap can be located at the very end of the site, in the shade, that is, in a place that, by its properties, is not suitable for planting useful plants.

Secondly, most likely, you will be building a greenhouse or greenhouse for early vegetables and seedlings. For such a structure, it is also necessary to allocate appropriate place in the sun.

Approach garden planning thoughtfully and seriously, try to place crops with good compatibility nearby, alternate different families of vegetables in the same area, try to plant early ones in the same bed, and late varieties vegetables to get two harvests a year - and even a small garden will provide your whole family with fresh herbs during the warm season, and the pantry will be filled with jars with preservation of your own production in the fall.