How to assemble walls from profiled timber. Assembling a house from profiled timber: video, do it yourself

Houses made of profiled timber are a modern take on wooden architecture. The technology is appreciated abroad, where it has been used for many years. Now it has gained wide popularity in Russia, which is facilitated by ease of construction and comfortable living. Such structures can be erected by ordering turnkey construction from a specialized company or by doing the installation yourself.

The secret of success lies in the specific properties of this building material. It is being manufactured from natural wood and is dried under industrial conditions. The most common material is pine, spruce, larch, but you can also find timber from hardwood - oak, aspen.

Its main difference from ordinary timber – the presence of a profile on both sides (along the entire length), providing lock connection using the tongue-and-groove system. The installation of structures from it is carried out according to the principle of a children's construction set, joining the elements together.

Basic advantages of the indicated houses:

• environmental cleanliness;
• simplicity and speed of installation work;
• high thermal insulation parameters of the material;
• low shrinkage when using well-dried timber;
• aesthetic appearance, related to nature;
• reasonable cost of materials and all construction;
• maintainability;
• possibility of using all kinds of finishing and facing materials.

Flaws houses made of profiled timber are determined by the properties of wood:

• low moisture resistance;
• tendency to rot;
• cracking under certain loads and freezing of moisture;
• shrinkage phenomena during operation.

Durability of paving walls wooden house completely depends on protective measures – impregnation with anti-rot composition and reliable waterproofing.

Important. We should not forget that wood is a highly flammable material, which requires appropriate treatment with non-flammable agents.

Design stage of construction

Any capital construction begins with several important events.

Design

Documents

Capital construction can only be carried out if the necessary technical documentation:

1. Foundation plan based on calculations and soil characteristics (level groundwater and freezing), with specifications for the need for materials.
2. Plan of the entire structure based on the previous document.
3. A detailed plan with a floor breakdown, placement of rooms and capital elements (stove, fireplace, staircase, etc.).
4. Detailed plan of paving walls with planking and cutting in the main areas.
5. Specification individual parts structures.
6. Roof drawing with details rafter system and roofing.
7. General view of the house from the outside.

Carrying out calculations of timber for a house

It is very difficult to calculate the required cross-section of a beam taking into account the loads, and therefore when choosing the size of a beam for walls, use the following standards:

• utility buildings and small dachas– 10x10 cm;
• standard houses for permanent residence, baths – 15x15 cm;
• large houses and elite class cottages – 20x20 cm.

The amount of lumber is calculated based on detailed plan walls with planking. The required volume of timber (V) for wall masonry is determined as the product P*H*b,

where P is the complete perimeter of the house with all protrusions (m), H is the height of the walls (m), b is the width of the beam (m), minus window and door openings.

The number of beams is determined as V/(b*h*l), where b is the width, h is the height, l is the length of the beam (m). The specific length of the beams is determined by the planking of the walls.

Foundation

The laying and construction of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

1. Type selection foundation - strip or columnar (pile). For residential buildings, the strip version is most suitable. When constructing small structures, preference is given to columnar support.
2. Size calculation foundation. At the design stage, the depth of the foundation and the width of the strip (area and number of pillars, piles) are determined. Built for houses made of timber shallow foundation depth equal to the level of soil freezing (most often 60-80 cm).
3. Digging a trench or hole for pillars. Backfilling the cushion with sand and crushed stone.
4. Wooden installation formwork.
5. Laying of reinforcing elements from steel rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Linking them horizontally and vertically.
6. Fill with thorough compaction using a vibrator.
7. Overlay waterproofing and thermal insulation. A layer of roofing felt is laid on top of the pillow. Lateral surface The foundation is covered with bitumen and then with roofing felt. Thermal insulation of the side walls is made of, or.

The construction of walls begins after concrete curing, i.e. no earlier than 7-10 days after pouring.

Construction of a house

The construction of walls begins with the installation of a box, as it is commonly called the first crown of the log house. It uses timber with a size exceeding the size of the main elements. IN standard projects the use of timber is envisaged 15x20 cm. This detail of the house should be especially carefully be treated with an antiseptic. In addition, it is recommended to use larch timber.

Work order:

1. Laying roofing felt waterproofing over concrete.
2. Fastening metal pins in concrete to fix the lower crown of the frame.
3. Installation of larch backing board around the entire perimeter of the house.
4. Installing the prepared beams on the pins, forming the frame of the box.
5. Checking horizontality using a building level.

Subfloor installation

The subfloor or floor covering is made of wooden logs, which are fixed to the box at home. A groove is cut out on the lower beams to match the size of the lag. Soundproofing is placed on the bottom of the groove, rubber gasket . The log beams are laid parallel in increments of 40-60 cm. If the ceiling is high above the ground, then support frames are installed.

Between the joists it is laid waterproofing from roofing felt or polyethylene film and fits insulation.

Most commonly used expanded clay, ash or sawdust . Can be applied mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

A subfloor made of boards at least 25 mm thick is laid on top of the logs.

The first board is fixed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, forming a damper gap.

Wall assembly

Walls are built by alternate laying of crowns along the entire perimeter of the house with the formation of openings and the removal of internal, intermediate walls. There are several construction nuances that will be highlighted below.

Timber splicing

You can reliably connect the bars end-to-end in the following ways:

1. Straight rim lock. It is formed according to the “half-beam” principle, but in addition a tongue-and-groove connection is created. The total length of the joint is (3-4)h.
2. Oblique rim lock. The beams are joined along an inclined plane (at an angle of no more than 40 degrees), on which the step is made. The length of the connecting section is (3.5-5)h.
3. « Dovetail» . A tongue and groove of the appropriate trapezoidal shape are cut out at the ends of the beams.
4. Tongue connection. At the ends of the beams, grooves are cut in the center, into which, after joining, a wooden tongue is driven.

To strengthen the connection, joining surfaces covered with glue. Additionally, it can be reinforced with screws or nails.

Gusset

Forming the corner of the house is considered an important operation responsible for the reliability and appearance of the entire log house. That is why this element is normalized GOST 30974-2002.

The following methods are provided:

1. Butt (butt). This is the simplest, but least reliable connection. The end of the beam simply rests on the side edge of another beam. The next crown closes the connection.
2. “Half a tree” or “half a beam”. At the ends of the joining elements, exactly half of the beam is cut out, and then these sections are joined.
3. "Warm Corner". The previous options create through channels where cold can penetrate. Elimination of “cold bridges” can be ensured by forming a connection using the “ root thorn», « dovetail», angle with remainder. In the first case, the tenon and groove principle with a rectangular profile is used. Dovetail has the same principle, but the connection elements are trapezoidal in shape. When creating a corner with a remainder, one beam is cut into another, and their ends are brought beyond the surface of the wall.

Formation of the wall

The insertion of the wall into the main crowns of the log house can be achieved in the following ways:

1. Root Thorn T-shape.
2. « Dovetail».
3. « Into the bowl" This joint profile is cut in production conditions. When purchasing a complete set of bars for standard house connection is made according to the instructions.

Fastening timber with dowels

The crowns of the log house are fastened during installation using wooden dowels. They are a wooden rod with a diameter of 16 - 22 mm and a length of 1.5 - 2 times the height of the beam.

The diameter of this element should exceed the size of the hole in the bars by 3-5 mm. The installation of dowels is carried out taking into account the following nuances:

• A hole is drilled in three beams. It should start in the middle of the lowest beam, pass through the middle crown and end in the middle of the third beam.
• The dowel is driven into this hole with a mallet, connecting the 3 crowns together.
• The first hole is drilled at a distance of at least 20-25 cm from the end of the beam. If it is located closer, there is a risk of wood splitting when driving in the dowel.
• The dowel installation pitch is 1.4-2.2 m.
• The dowel should not reach the bottom of the hole to ensure shrinkage.

Insulation options during installation

The seam between the crowns is the area of ​​probable " bridge of cold", which requires insulation. It is believed that you can do without it only if using a "German comb" as a lock profile. But even in this case, it is better to caulk the seam externally.

In other options, heat-insulating fibrous material is placed in the groove along the entire length of the beams - jute, linen. The thickness of such a gasket should not exceed 5-8 mm.

Roof

The roof of a house made of timber is made on the basis of a rafter system and, as a rule, has a gable design.

The following stages are distinguished:

1. Installation of beams ceiling . For this, a 15x10 cm beam is used. The beams cut into the upper crown of the log house. The insertion points are reinforced with dowels or anchors. The beam installation step is 60-80 cm.
2. Installation rafter legs . For rafters, timber 10x10, 15x5 or 10x15 cm is used. The angle of the roof slope depends on the intensity of precipitation and the type of attic. At the top, the rafter triangles are connected by a ridge. Braces, crossbars, and racks are used as reinforcing elements. The installation pitch of the rafters is 80-100 cm.
3. Lathing. It is made from unedged boards, which are fixed to the rafters.
4. Roof waterproofing. Roofing felt is laid on top of the sheathing. If done warm attic, then insulation (mineral wool) is applied under the waterproofing.
5. Roofing installation.
6. wooden flooring, draft ceiling. Laying thermal insulation and vapor barrier. Subfloor, attic flooring.

Installation of individual elements

When building a house, it is impossible to do without some specific elements. They create certain nuances in the work process:

1. Window and door openings. These openings are formed by installing the appropriate wooden box. Between her and the wall is left expansion gap, which eliminates the risk of deformation of windows and doors during the natural shrinkage of the structure. This space should not be filled with foam. Suitable material considered to be fibrous insulation in a vapor-proof wrapper.
2. Vertical elements. These include columns and various support posts or pillars. To avoid destruction during shrinkage, they are placed on an adjustable base (jack).
3. Roofing parts. To compensate for the shrinkage load in the rafters, a sliding element is provided at the point of their attachment to the frame. In some cases, the possibility of slipping is also provided in the area of ​​the ridge.
4. Ladder. It is installed to enter the attic (attic) or two-story house. It is recommended to carry out final installation after complete shrinkage wooden structure(in 10-12 months). The load-bearing element of the staircase is a bowstring or stringer, which is fixed between the floor and ceiling (interfloor) ceiling.

Houses built from profiled timber are popular, and this is no coincidence. Among the main advantages of the house, it is worth highlighting the speed of installation, since during the construction process the structure is assembled in short period time. To build a house from profiled timber with your own hands, you must follow the advice of experts.

Initial stage of construction

First of all, a design project is drawn up. In the process of drawing up a plan, it is important to take into account all the nuances that will affect the cost of materials and work. You can make a plan yourself or turn to professionals who know their business and can do the job.

When harvesting wood yourself, it is worth considering the fact that it is better to do this in cold period time. Wood should take a long time to dry. But in cold weather it is better to refuse work, because wet wood becomes fragile.

To build a house, you need to use wood with a moisture content of no more than 20%, otherwise it will warp and cracks will appear in the walls.

When choosing wood, it is important to give preference to a material without cracks. Next, the log is cut and treated with an antiseptic. If desired, you can purchase wood that has already been processed, in which grooves will be cut. As a result, folding the house will not be difficult.

In order to understand how to do quality work, it is important to follow the rules.

We are building a house

Building a house needs to start with defining the right type foundation. For this purpose, it is necessary to study the occurrence of groundwater, become familiar with the structure of the foundation of neighboring houses, as well as the composition of the soil.

For a wooden structure, a pile, columnar or strip shallow foundation is considered an excellent option.

Strip foundation device

1. Work begins by marking the boundaries of the foundation along the internal and external corners future construction with cord and pegs.
2. After marking, it is checked. To do this, the diagonals are measured - they must be the same.
3. Next, following the markings, they dig a trench about a meter deep.
4. Geotextiles can be laid at the bottom and installed along the outer edge of the trench thermal insulation material– this will protect the shallow strip foundation from freezing.
5. Fill in pre-moistened sand, a layer of which reaches 10 cm, and compact it.
6. After this, the same layer of sand is poured and compacted again.
7. The top is covered with crushed stone, maintaining the previous thickness (10 cm). This cake needs to be thoroughly compacted.
8. Formwork is being made. You can assemble it yourself or order it from specialists. The first option assumes the presence of wood in which there are no cracks. It can be made non-removable using fiberboard boards. Custom formwork must be made of plastic or steel. The formwork is placed in the trench and leveled. Strength can be increased using a frame made of Ø 10 mm reinforcement. Experts recommend using two reinforcement belts. They cannot be placed at a distance closer than 3 cm from each other, but they should enter the trench freely without touching its edges.
9. The formwork is moistened with water and concrete is poured.
10. If the formwork is made of wood, it needs to be moistened with more water. Otherwise, the wood may absorb moisture from cement mortar, or even better, cover the boards with plastic wrap.
11. The formwork can be removed after a few days, after the solution has dried.
12. As insulation material They use slabs of extruded polystyrene foam, 5 cm thick. The foundation at the corners is insulated with a layer of 8 cm.
13. The sides of the foundation need to be tarred.
14. The surface of the foundation is insulated with roofing felt, laying it in 2 layers.
15. The excavated soil is backfilled.

Construction of the floor

For the walls, a beam with a section of 150×150 mm is required. After laying the first row, it is treated with an antiseptic. Floor joists are also installed, which are laid on edge. The cross-section of the beam should be 100×50 mm. They can be placed on the foundation and attached to the walls of the structure.

Two logs are placed on walls opposite each other. A construction thread is pulled between them, maintaining a distance of one and a half meters. The threads will indicate the level at which other logs can be set and mounted.

The gaps formed between the lags are filled with insulation, which is used as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or polystyrene foam. If the boards intended for laying the floor reach a thickness of 40 mm, the distance between the lags should be about 80 cm. The height of the lags is adjusted using wedges made of thin plywood, which are secured with self-tapping screws or long nails. Logs and wedges are fixed to wooden base using wood screws or long nails. When installing joists on concrete base use dowels or anchors.

Now you can attach the boards. The best option will become boards with a cross section of 25×150 mm. To do this, you need to step back 1 cm from the wall and strengthen a row of boards, focusing on the thread. If the boards will be fastened with self-tapping screws, a hole is drilled for them, after which the board is attached to the joists. The subfloor must be covered with a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing. For this, polyethylene or penofol is used. A wooden flooring made of tongue and groove boards is laid on the subfloor.

Walling

During the work process, the beams are laid out one by one. At the same time, they are fastened together with dowels, which prevent the timber from moving. The material for dowels is wood or metal.

It is better to purchase wooden dowels, as metal ones can rot.

• In order to build walls using dowels, you need to drill holes in the logs into which they will be inserted. In this case, the diameter of the hole will be 4 cm. The distance between the holes should be 1.5 m.

• When laying beams, it is important to lay insulation between them. For partitions, you can use timber with a cross-section of 100×150 mm. They are performed only after the construction of the log house is completed.
• You can reduce the cost of your home by building internal frame walls. To do this, create a frame from bars, the cross-section of which is 50x50 mm, and cover it with clapboard.
• To make the house fireproof, it is covered special means, which is applied with a regular brush or using a spray bottle.
• Installation of windows is carried out only after shrinkage of the structure. You can give preference to metal-plastic or wooden windows.

The most suitable option is considered to be ondulin, metal tiles or corrugated sheets.

• First of all, before laying the Mauerlat, the wall is insulated using waterproof material. This is necessary in order to preserve the timber from rotting. Roofing felt, which is placed in a couple of layers, is suitable as an insulating material.
• Then they attach the mauerlat, which is presented in the form of a beam. Wood would be the best option hardwood, treated with an antiseptic. This material will be an ideal support for wooden rafters. The beams are laid using a level along the entire length of the walls, from pediment to pediment. To secure the Mauerlat, you need to use a 12mm drill, the length of which reaches 300 mm. The Mauerlat is drilled and entered to a depth of 200 mm into the wall of the house. They take the cut reinforcement using a sledgehammer and hammer it into the drilled holes. The ends of the reinforcement can be bent.
• Beams are installed, then rafters. Lastly, the sheathing.
• After the walls are erected, ceiling joists are installed. At the same time, their ends protrude beyond the edge of the wall by 50 cm. The cross-section of the logs should be 50×100 mm. They are laid out on edge. The distance between them is 90 cm.
• Collect truss structure, the basis of which is boards with a section of 50×150 mm. This system should be strengthened as much as possible with crossbars and braces.
• Fronts made of timber with a cross-section of 150×150 mm are laid.
• The sheathing (section 25×150 mm) is nailed onto the rafters.
• To prevent condensation from accumulating, a vapor barrier is made with a layer of waterproofing, after which the roofing material is installed.

How to insulate a house made of timber

In order to save money on heating in the future, it is important to pay attention to home insulation. Outdoor thermal insulation occurs due to a decrease in the moisture content of the beams. The most popular finishing option is clapboard finishing. You can also use mineral wool, flax-jute fiber, glass wool slabs. The latter option is laid using a foil vapor barrier layer. Thus, the heat will be directed indoors.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam when insulating a house made of timber, as it prevents the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which can lead to rotting of the material. It is better to use a membrane vapor-permeable layer.

To cover the walls inside the house, you can use clapboard or drywall.

Many people mistakenly believe that a house made of profiled timber does not shrink. It is, of course, not so big, but it is important to remember this and not install windows and doors rigidly.

Provided step by step instructions will allow anyone to cope with the work, even those who do not have experience in this kind of construction.

Video

This video demonstrates the assembly eco-friendly home from profiled timber:

Watch a video about which timber profile to choose for a house under construction:

Photo

Despite the widespread development of multi-storey residential and administrative buildings using concrete, glass and metal are still popular classic houses made of wood. Timber has proven itself to be one of the most reliable options when building a wooden house. The opportunity to build a house from profiled timber with your own hands exists for everyone who has the corresponding desire and is ready to acquire building materials for upcoming work. If you combine enthusiasm with competent planning and a responsible approach to each stage of construction - success is more than guaranteed!

Advantages of profiled timber as a material for the home

Profiled timber is a building material produced by processing coniferous trees: spruce, larch, cedar, pine. The inner side of the beam is a smooth, polished surface, while the outer side can be either round (imitate a log) or have a different shape, and also follow the contour inside, being completely flat.

There are grooves and tenons on the side that serve as joining elements for individual beams. The consumer's choice often falls on timber, not only because of its reliability indicators, which have been confirmed for decades, but also due to the fact that the timber is environmentally friendly, since no glue is used in the manufacturing process.

Another advantage of profiled timber is its very good heat capacity and thermal insulation. This allows any resident and guest of cobblestone houses to always feel comfortable in them. What is important is that, for all its advantages, the timber is not very expensive material and in the price range it seems realistic for purchase by the majority of those interested, even with an average income level.

With the help of the elements already prepared on the beams for fastening, it will be relatively easy to assemble a house from them. But do not forget that profiled timber is a wood-based material, and, like any wooden object, it can present unpleasant surprises in the form of fungus or mold contained on it. Of course, this can be avoided by timely treating the timber with special mixtures to protect the surface from the effects of negative environmental factors.

Profiled timber has virtually no problems with cracks, but circumstances vary, so if damage to any timber element is detected - renovation work should be carried out immediately, since the cracks in the timber are gradually expanding. This is especially true for floors and ceilings made using timber.

If the cobblestone house is located in a region with a permanently cold climate, you should also take care of additional insulation all its elements.

The initial stage of building a house made of timber

The initial stage of building any house is drawing up a project; a house built from profiled timber with your own hands is no exception. If you wish to use the services construction company still hasn't appeared, you can draw the project yourself. In this case, you should immediately understand that best period when can construction begin? winter time year. When harvesting wood in the cold and then drying it for a long time at home, the timber will be of the highest quality and will shrink evenly. However, abuse weather conditions It’s not worth it - excessive frost will make the timber brittle.

Alternatively, you can already purchase ready-made bars in accordance with individual requirements to building material. In this case, the grooves will already be cut, and building a house from profiled timber will become simple, as if you just need to put together a children's construction set.

House foundation made of profiled timber

Before you begin the process of laying the foundation for the future cobblestone house, you need to familiarize yourself with the conditions of the area where it will be located, find out on what basis the foundation of neighboring houses is made, especially if they also use profiled timber as a basis.

The ideal option for a house made of timber would be a strip foundation of the following types:

• with shallow recess;
• columnar;
• pile

Construction scheme strip foundation looks with a shallow depression as follows:

• Marking: marking all the edges of the building and combining them using cords, for more volumetric view. Thus, you will already have a relatively accurate version of the structure’s location before your eyes;
• Digging a hole for the foundation. The depth should not exceed 0.6 meters, so as not to reduce the stability of the house in the future. Next, the bottom of the resulting trench must be covered with a layer of sand (about 10 cm), and sprinkled on top with a layer of crushed stone of approximately the same thickness;
• Production of formwork or ordering one. At self-production must be used as a basis the best wood, without seams and deep cuts, if the choice fell on custom formwork, then it is better to choose the steel option. The formwork is installed and leveled in the very center of the trench;
• Laying the frame and reinforcement in at least 2 belts;
• Insulation, hydro- and thermal insulation using special materials: polyurethane foam, roofing felt, etc.

The floor in the house is made of profiled timber

The construction of each building begins with the creation of a row for subsequent laying on an already processed and leveled waterproofing foundation. For the floor, timber with a cross-sectional size of 100*50 millimeters is used. After the first row of the floor is ready, it must be treated with an antiseptic substance to increase the resistance of the material negative factors external environment. Next, the floor joists are mounted and laid on the edge.

After the logs are laid, they will need to be left in this condition for 1-2 days to adapt to the ambient temperature. The logs are laid according to a guideline, which can be set as follows: between the logs initially fixed at two opposite walls, a tie made of nylon thread is made every 1.5 meters.

Advice! The gaps that will form between the lags can subsequently be used to fill with insulation. The best way to do this is to use polyurethane foam or mineral wool.

After laying the logs, the installation of the subfloor and installation of floor boards follows. He's packing in various ways: with or without offset. It is necessary to first lay the initial layer, and then carry out the installation wooden flooring at him. Don’t forget about waterproofing: it will be laid on rough foundation future gender. Penofol or dense polyethylene are perfect for this.

Finally, you need to lay the floor, for which any material is suitable, for example, a tongue-and-groove board 3.6 centimeters thick.

Walls in a house made of profiled timber

The scheme for constructing the walls of a cobblestone house from profiled timber with your own hands is simple: you need to lay out rows of beams sequentially, and each next row is joined to the previous one using pins vertical connection- dowels. The dowels are installed according to the brick laying method: through 2-3 rows, one after another. For dowels, several holes are drilled, up to 3.5 centimeters in diameter, at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other.

It will be necessary to cut out a protrusion in one of the beams, and a groove of the appropriate size in the second. In some layers, grooves and tenons alternate with each other, which makes the structure much more durable and eliminates blowing from the corners.

When the dimensions of the structure being constructed exceed 6*6 meters, at least one partition must be placed on the ground floor - it will provide additional support for the floor of the upper floor.

The last point is that in those places where windows are installed, you will need to cut out technological openings. Air will move through them while the material dries, and when the house finally settles, it will be possible to install windows. The material for window blocks can be metal, plastic or wood.

The environmental friendliness of wood and the microclimate inside the house make wooden houses very popular. Wood retains heat well, looks great and is not expensive. Currently, several types of timber are produced.

Types of timber

Regular timber is produced on a circular saw by cutting 2-4 parts from a log. The timber is then dried in natural conditions or in drying chambers.

Glued laminated timber is produced by gluing together dried boards. Then the resulting material is processed on profiling or rounding machines. As a result, the timber is very durable, does not crack over time, and a house built from laminated timber practically does not shrink. Perhaps its only drawback is the high price.

The most inexpensive and easiest to install is profiled timber. Profiled timber is made from wood coniferous species wood: pine, spruce, larch and cedar. Unlike ordinary timber, it has a groove(s) on one side and a tenon(s) on the opposite side. The grooves are made to simplify the assembly of the house and provide a tighter and better connection. The remaining two sides are planed smooth, either rounded to resemble a log, or have a slight chamfer.

For construction country house made of profiled timber, you should pay attention to its moisture content. It is best to purchase dried timber with a moisture content of no more than 20%. It is easier to build walls from dry material and it will not move after assembly. After purchasing building material, in order to avoid the accumulation of excess moisture, you should not allow long term storing it, and immediately begin assembling the box at home.

If you decide to use timber natural humidity, then it is best to buy material that was harvested in winter, since the movement of sap during this period stops, and there is no excess moisture in the wood.

Project

The house design is chosen based on personal ideas about what country housing should be like, and, of course, financial capabilities. You can buy the project from the relevant companies or draw it yourself. But in any case, it is necessary to coordinate it with the administration of the area where the house is planned to be built and obtain all the necessary permits. After obtaining permission, you must contact the woodworking enterprise where profiled timber is produced and order the amount of building material corresponding to the project.

Foundation

In the meantime, the material is being prepared in production, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for the future country house. Upon purchase finished project At home, there should be no problems with choosing the type of foundation. And when independent development it is necessary to calculate all the pros and cons of the project different types foundation. The most preferred type of foundation for a house with year-round use is belt type. This foundation is reliable and can withstand loads from two-story house made of timber and when building it with your own hands is not so expensive.

So, the first thing you need to do is determine the location on the site for construction and carry out the markings. Houses look beautiful when the foundation (basement) protrudes slightly beyond the wall, so the pegs need to be driven 5-10 cm further (to make the foundation wider) than the size of the house itself. Of course, this will entail additional costs for concrete, but it will not only provide beautiful view, but also uniform distribution of the load on the foundation from the house. Interior the foundation should also protrude beyond the wall. The floor joists will subsequently rest on the inner ledge. Let's give a simple example: under a house made of timber 150 mm wide, it is necessary to pour a foundation 300 mm wide, outer part which will protrude beyond the wall by 50 mm, and inside by 100 mm.

We mark the perimeter of the house by stretching ropes between the pegs. If the house has interior walls made of timber of the same size as the external ones, then under them it is necessary to pour the same foundation as the main one. A trench is dug with a width equal to the width of the foundation and a depth of 70-80 cm. You should not dig a wide trench; in the future, this can lead to inconvenience in installing the formwork, and even to a simple waste of concrete. It is necessary to make a sand cushion under the foundation. To do this, the bottom of the dug trench is covered with 15-20 cm of sand and compacted well with a tamper or by pouring copious amounts of water.

Formwork assembly

Formwork consists of wooden panels assembled from edged or unedged boards 25 mm thick and 150 mm wide. The sufficient height of the foundation from ground level is three together assembled boards, that is, 45 cm. It’s not worth saving and making a lower foundation for a wooden house, because otherwise lower crowns the log house will get wet from splashes of falling raindrops and evaporation from the ground, and in the spring-winter period - from melting snow.

After assembling the shields, they are installed in place of the dug trench opposite each other and fastened together. In the upper part, the boards are secured using a block, which is placed on top of the formwork and screwed with one screw to one board, and another to the other. In the middle and at the bottom, the shields are fastened together with thick wire. To do this, each shield is drilled opposite each other in the place of transverse fastening of the boards, a thick knitting wire is inserted into the resulting holes, the ends of which are twisted together from the outside. Inside the formwork, a thick screwdriver or a long nail is inserted between the wires and twisted together, controlling the distance between the panels with a jig. After twisting the wire, the conductor block is taken out, and a firmly fastened formwork is obtained, which does not require side support pegs. After installing all the panels and assembling the formwork, it is necessary to check its horizontalness using a laser or water level.

Expert opinion! It is best to immediately level the formwork and pour concrete, leveling it according to its level. top edge. In this case, we immediately get a perfectly level foundation horizontally and will avoid further problems with its leveling.

Now you need to lay and tie the reinforcement. For the foundation of a house, it is best to use reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm. For a foundation with a width of 300 mm and a total height of 1 meter, three reinforcement belts of two rods each will be sufficient. If the reinforcement turns out to be short and you have to add more, then the overlap between each other should be at least 30 times the diameter of the rod itself. That is, if 12-diameter reinforcement is used, then the overlap should be 12*30=360 mm. The reinforcement is connected to each other with knitting wire.

Before pouring concrete, it is necessary to provide places in the foundation where there will be holes for ventilation of the subfloor. For these purposes they usually use asbestos cement pipes. They are sawed off to the size of the foundation and installed inside the formwork. To prevent the pipes from floating during the concrete pouring process, they are secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

All preparatory work completed, concrete can be poured. During and after pouring, it is necessary to “tap” the formwork with a hammer. This is done to release air from the concrete. After pouring top part the foundation is leveled with a trowel.

IN summer period the formwork can be removed after three days and within two weeks the walls of the house can be erected from profiled timber.

Assembling the walls of the house

During the construction of the foundation, materials, or rather profiled timber, were already manufactured in production and delivered to the site. Now you need to assemble the box of the house as quickly as possible and cover it with a roof.

Laying on the foundation waterproofing material and already he has the first crown ( bottom trim) Houses. For the first crown of the house, you can use ordinary timber.

Further, the installation process is similar to assembling a children's construction set. The beams are laid on top of each other and are fastened together with wooden or metal dowels to prevent displacement. To do this, the timber must be drilled and a dowel inserted into the resulting hole.

Thus, several rows are fastened at once. Insulation must be laid between the rows.

In the corners, the beam can be connected both with and without remainder. This point can be resolved at the stage of timber production, at the factory, and order the most suitable option corner connection or do it yourself. In any case, in order to avoid heat loss, the corner connection must be warm and made using a tongue-and-groove system.

If the house has two floors, then upon completion of the construction of the first, interfloor beams of preferably large cross-section (150*150 mm) are laid on top of the walls, at a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other. Next, the process continues in the same order as during the construction of the walls of the first floor.

Roof installation

After completing the construction of the walls, the installation of the rafter system begins. Most often on country houses do gable roofs with an inclination angle of at least 30°. 150*50 mm boards are used as rafters. They are assembled in the shape of the letter A and installed on the walls. First, the outer rafters are placed, a guideline (strong thread) is pulled between them, and then all the rest. The rafters are attached to the wall using corners or 300 mm nails. In the case of an insulated roof, a vapor barrier material is stretched along the rafters, and then installed wooden sheathing. A ventilated gap must be left between the sheathing and the vapor barrier.

Why nail the counter batten along the rafters, and then the sheathing itself. It is already possible to lay sheet metal on such a sheathing. roofing material(profiled sheets, metal tiles). And for soft roof you will have to make a solid base from plywood.

Interior decoration

The box is under the roof, you can go inside almost finished house. The initial task is to make the floors. To do this, floor joists are laid on the protruding part of the foundation at a distance of 60 cm from each other.

You should not save on them and purchase 150*150 timber for these purposes. We nail 150*50 mm boards to the wall on one side and the other, and arrange the subfloor.

We lay vapor barrier material between the beams, and then insulation. We cover the insulation on top vapor barrier material, provide a ventilated gap and lay floorboard. We obtain the gap by hammering a block onto the joists. Insulation of interfloor ceilings occurs in the same way.

A house made of profiled timber with your own hands will shrink. That's all for this finishing work, in addition to those described, it is necessary to carry out only after complete shrinkage.

Depending on the thickness of the selected timber, further costs for its heating and the degree of its further insulation depend. Profiled timber is produced planed and does not require additional finishing except antiseptic treatment and painting.

All photos from the article

Modern house made of profiled timber - this is a very reliable structure with high performance characteristics. The naturalness of the material makes this option much more attractive than most others, and the possibility of realizing any plans will allow you to bring the most original ideas to life. In this review, we will look at what nuances should be taken into account during the assembly process and what criteria should be used when choosing a specific option.

Pros and cons of this option

First, let's figure out what advantages profiled timber has:

Important!
Remember one simple recommendation: during the work process, handle the elements carefully, do not walk on them or place them on dirty surfaces, otherwise you will later have to remove all these contaminants using sandpaper.
It is much easier to be careful and not do unnecessary work.