How to level the floor under the laminate - an overview of the best ways. Leveling the floor under the laminate, depending on the base and the nature of the irregularities Draft floor under the laminate

Laminate is becoming more and more popular flooring. It attracts with ease of installation, its practicality and easy care in the future. The laminate is highly resistant to wear, sound and heat insulation. Adhesive and glueless laying methods are used, for the latter slabs with Click and Lock locks are produced. The locking system for connecting panels is being improved, which ensures a reliable connection of individual elements.

Laminate Features

Material collections are constantly updated, coating methods and patterns are being improved. New technological solutions for applying a protective layer appear, materials improving wear resistance are being improved, for this purpose polymer resins are used with the inclusion of solid mineral particles and antistatic agents.

An important element in preparing the floor for laying laminate flooring is its leveling. The floor must be perfectly even, because irregularities and distortions complicate the laying process, the locks can quickly fail, the floor will become permeable to moisture. All this will lead to a reduction in the life of the entire floor. Only when laying panels with a Click lock, floor differences of up to 2 mm are allowed.

Concrete screed is traditional, however, this is an expensive and labor-intensive measure, which does not always allow to achieve the desired result, often requires additional leveling with special mixtures, grinding.

It is possible to prepare the floor for laying laminate without the use of a screed, including using plywood or chipboard, GVL or GKL.

The existing wooden floor, with visible defects and dips, requires partial dismantling and replacement of damaged boards, it is also necessary to strengthen loose boards. Then you can perform floor scraping (photo), lay plywood or chipboard and laminate slabs. It is recommended to putty the cracks with a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue.

We lay the coating

When installing a new floor or completely dismantling an existing one, a different technology is used. The level of the new floor is determined, a layer of waterproofing material is laid, logs are laid. Logs must be carefully aligned and secured. Sheets of plywood, chipboard or other materials are laid on top of the log, the joints are carefully primed, the sheets must be laid apart, leaving a gap to the wall, due to possible deformations. The floor is ready for laying laminate.

On top of plywood or chipboard sheets, it is advisable to lay a layer of polyethylene foam for cushioning. Insulation of such a floor is possible with the help of any insulation, such as foam, laying it between the lags.

It is quite easy to make floors with laminate flooring warm; for this, the following heating systems are used: water, electric and electro-water.

When laying laminate without a screed device, infrared films, underfloor heating systems with water heating and cable mats for dry installation are used. It should be noted that for a laminate that is afraid of rapid heating, heaters with a power of up to 100 - 130 W / m2 should be used.

In combination with laminate flooring systems for "dry" installation are used.

Stacking systems

The flooring system includes special plates with grooves, in which tubular heating elements are laid. The material of the mats is polystyrene or with a wooden base fiberboard or OSB. Such a floor is mounted quite simply: ready-made elements of the system with grooves sawn into them are laid on a leveled subfloor. Plates connected to each other with a spike inserted into the groove. Pipes are laid in the furrows. Pipes are connected to a source of hot water, then the coating is laid. Metal plates are used to improve heat transfer. The installation and operation costs of such a system are low.

One of the best options for underfloor heating in combination with laminate flooring is infrared. At low power, the coating is evenly heated, installation is not difficult, and heat transfer is high. Installation is carried out on a carefully leveled surface on which a layer of heat insulator is first applied.

Then the heater film roll is unwound, laid out in accordance with the plan, the busbars are connected, the wires are led to the thermostat. A substrate is laid on top of the heater, preferably a synthetic material, then a laminate is laid. This heater has a significant drawback, the cost is $ 70 - 80 per square meter.

One of the latest developments for floor heating with laminate flooring is the XL Pipe electric water floor heater. The advantage of the system is uniform heating. The system consists of a plastic pipe with a heating cable inside, the pipe is hermetically sealed. The pipe is filled with non-freezing liquid. Installation of the system is similar to the installation of a water system, when finished system elements with grooves sawn into them are laid on a leveled subfloor. The plates are also attached to each other with a tongue and groove. Pipes are laid in furrows. Contacts are connected to the thermostat. The cover is laid. Metal plates are used to improve heat transfer.

When installing a warm floor in combination with a laminate coating, its low thermal conductivity must be taken into account. For such purposes, materials with increased density are used. The applied heaters should be up to 100-130 W/m2. To compensate for thermal expansion, the coating should not reach the wall by 0.5-1.0 cm.

This also reduces the risk of overheating of the heating elements. To ventilate the space around the elements and prevent floor swelling, it is necessary to leave breathing holes in the skirting boards. It is also advisable to lay a layer of polyethylene film intended for underfloor heating under the substrate.

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the better and is it necessary without a drop

Laminate is a modern floor covering with good characteristics. It looks aesthetically pleasing, easy to fit, long-lasting, forms a thin layer. But such flooring requires careful surface preparation, so when carrying out repair work, the question often arises of how to level the floor under the laminate. Alignment is solved in several ways, differing in time and cost, as well as aspects of changing the characteristics of the room.

Why is it needed

According to the norms of SNiP, the leveling of the floor under the laminate should be carried out so that there are no height differences per meter more than 2 mm on the surface. This task is solved in different ways. During the work, you can get the basis for the laminate flooring, which will have the following features:

• slightly or vice versa, it is enough to noticeably change the level of the floor;
• increase the characteristics of noise protection, reduce heat loss;
• have increased smoothness, strength;
• require a significant investment of time and money.

In practice, the decision on how best to level the floor is made on the basis of available resources and skills and tools.

The indicators that must be achieved when leveling floors for laminate according to SNiP are somewhat outdated. They have been developed for coatings laid with adhesives. This type of laminate lamellae is practically not used today. The types of coating offered on the market are equipped with locking connection zones, allow differences in base heights of up to 4 mm. They are laid on substrates, which serve as an additional means of leveling the imperfections of the base surface.

A few simple methods

Leveling the floor under the laminate may not require a large investment of money and time. With a relatively good condition of the base, a number of cosmetic procedures can be carried out.

1. Wooden floor

If the logs and boards of the existing flooring are in good condition, level the floor for the new flooring in the following way:

• old linoleum or layers of paint are removed;
• the remnants of glue, paint and varnish coatings are washed off with the help of chemicals;
• the surface is cycled or processed by a grinder;
• the procedure of priming, anti-mold and anti-fungal impregnation is carried out.

Leveling floors under a laminate in this way can be done in one day, getting a high-quality, even base.

2. Concrete floor

For a concrete floor, the leveling procedure for laminate can be carried out if the surface is in good condition. This means the absence of deep cracks, zones of destruction, spillage, large potholes. In this case, concrete can be leveled with a special grinder. Using a grinder with a nozzle will require a lot of time. This leveling procedure for laminate flooring should be carried out if the height runout does not exceed 5-6 mm.

Important! On a concrete surface that will be covered with a laminate board, large potholes can be repaired with tile adhesive. At the same time, it is worth taking measures to create a minimum mortar laying thickness of 10-15 mm: expand, deepen the zones, especially in the contour area. It is necessary to level the floors under the laminate by carrying out deep priming procedures, adding fiber fibers for reinforcement to the composition of the mixture.

Works with medium height differences

If the existing flooring is in an average condition (there is a height difference of about 20 mm, damaged areas), but is strong and reliable enough, there are options for leveling the floor under the laminate, depending on the base material.

1. Wooden floors

Preparation for work includes all the steps listed above for cosmetic procedures. Further, the decision, the better to level the floor under the laminate, is made depending on the available options.

• if there is a destruction of the boards - they are replaced;
• to level differences in height up to 10 mm, you can use special mastics for wood;
• if you need an inexpensive solution than leveling a wooden base for a laminate flooring, you can use a simple recipe: small sawdust mixed with PVA glue. Such a mixture is easy to apply, smoothes, dries relatively quickly, and forms a strong, even surface.

If the drop in height reaches 15 mm or more, it is rational to use plywood. The question of whether it is necessary to level the floor under the laminate using such material is not even worth it. The cost of carrying out work on large areas where there is a significant drop in height will change little in comparison with the options for using other methods.

Plywood is laid and screwed with screws around the perimeter. It is worth arranging individual elements with a brickwork pattern; cutting standard sheets into relatively small parts will reduce the percentage of waste. In low-level areas of a large area, it is possible to lay laths or partially pour a mixture of PVA with sawdust to avoid deformation of the plywood when walking.

Video leveling the floor with mastic:

2. Concrete floors

For concrete floors, the beating of the heights of which is in the range of 5-25 mm, it is rational to use self-leveling liquid mixtures. Such a fill is quickly done, even a beginner can cope with the task. The work steps look like this:

• the existing base is polished, cracks and noticeable depressions are sealed on it;
• the surface is treated with bituminous mastic;
• waterproofing is laid, in the simplest case it can be a polymer film;
• a self-leveling mixture is prepared and poured;
• the filled layer is smoothed, stretched, passed by needle rollers to remove air bubbles.

The decision whether it is necessary to level the floor under the laminate with expensive liquid mixtures is made taking into account the positive qualities of such a procedure:

1. Firstly, it is faster, requires simple preparation, generates little dirt and debris.
2. Secondly, a thin layer of pouring dries in an uncommonly shorter amount of time than a concrete screed.
3. Thirdly, a perfectly flat and durable surface is formed.
4. Fourthly, it often does not require high qualification of the performer of the work.

In practice, in most apartments and houses of relatively new construction, the methods listed in this section are used to prepare the base for laying the laminate.

Filling a thin screed

Very poor laying bases

If the floor in an apartment or house is in poor condition, it is more rational to remove it to create a good foundation for a modern coating. After that, you can proceed with the following methods:

1. In housing with wooden flooring on beams, an inspection is carried out and, if necessary, a log is replaced. It is recommended to cover the floor space with expanded clay or polystyrene granules - this will improve the performance of thermal insulation and noise protection. After that, a board or plywood is sewn onto the logs (when replacing them, a beam can be used). If necessary, for a wooden coating, scraping is carried out for finishing alignment.
2. In apartments with wooden flooring on reinforced concrete floors, after removing the existing base, debris is eliminated, the slab is inspected, and cracks are sealed. The next stage is laying the log from the timber, their level is displayed with pads or special anchor bolts. Plywood is sewn onto the formed lattice.
3. For housing with reinforced concrete floors, it is possible to create screeds of various formats. This applies to both houses with wooden flooring and screed. The latter should be removed to the plate itself. After that:

• you can create a classic cement-sand screed up to 40-50 mm thick;
• pour a semi-dry screed of expanded clay covered with a gypsum fiber board over the beacons;
• lay a lattice of timber and sew a surface of plywood.

Expanded clay semi-dry screed improves thermal insulation performance, reduces noise levels. Styrofoam, polystyrene granules can be used as a filler for the space between the lags. Expanded clay also works well. Such measures to improve the characteristics of the room will not affect the quality of the surface for laying the laminate flooring.

The combination looks great. A thin, about 35 mm screed is made from a cement-sand mixture with the addition of fiber. On top of it, a layer of self-leveling floor of the minimum possible thickness is poured (depending on the characteristics of the mixture).

Such a composite structure has an acceptable cost, a flat and smooth surface, excellent strength and service life. Any class of laminate with substrates of minimum thickness is laid on it. At the same time, the coating exactly corresponds to the characteristics declared by the manufacturer.

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How to level a concrete floor under a laminate for a novice master?

If you are going to lay different types of flooring, you need to make sure that the surface of the base is perfectly flat.

It is important that the coating is laid qualitatively. In addition, you need to take care of hydro and thermal insulation and do everything for its long-term operation.

Below will be outlined all the features of leveling the concrete floor before laying the laminate.

The need for leveling the base

So, why do you need to prepare the base before installing the laminate flooring? This procedure must be carried out in order to:

1. Protect the interlocks of the individual boards. If there are imperfections in the form of bumps and pits on the concrete surface, this will cause the connection to fail and the load distribution will be incorrect. After some time, gaps form at the joints and cracks may appear on the laminate.
2. Reduce the moisture content of the concrete base, which can damage the laminate flooring. Moisture tends to penetrate from under the screed through cracks and defects in concrete. That is why it is necessary to carry out a thorough preliminary preparation of such a foundation.
3. Eliminate all existing bumps, distortions, cracks, potholes. Such defects lead to the fact that the laminate will not be mounted correctly, the installation quality will suffer and the coating will last very little.

It is possible to level the concrete base at any of its quality. For these works, self-leveling compounds, plywood sheets or cement-bonded particle boards are used.

The concrete base can be leveled with your own hands, without investing extra money in it. Initially, it is necessary to thoroughly clean it from the existing remnants of the floor covering, dirt, debris, dust.

It is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner, since an ordinary broom is not always able to remove all unnecessary. Next, you need to inspect the base for cracks and other defects. They are masked with an appropriate cement mortar.

Then a primer with a deep penetrating effect is applied to the surface. If a screed is used, it will securely grip the base. Using a primer can reduce the absorbency of concrete, which will reduce the cracking of the floor.

If the question arose of how to level a concrete floor under a laminate, then four types of work should be considered. Namely:

• Use of level-mass;
• Laying a cement monolithic screed;
• Installation of cement particle boards;
• Leveling by laying plywood.

Each method implies certain conditions for conducting, and also differs in its own advantages and disadvantages.

The method of leveling a concrete base with a mass level is not complicated and its implementation will not take much time.

The dry mixture is diluted with water and has a self-leveling effect. It guarantees a high-quality coating, makes it perfectly even, eliminates possible drops. It is applied easily, which means that anyone can work with it.

How to prepare a level-mass

The method of preparing a mass level is quite simple. All proportions are indicated on the packaging of the mixture.

Important! To stir the components, you need to use a drill with an appropriate nozzle. During the preparation of the solution, it is necessary to monitor the density of the mass and focus on certain tasks.

If it is necessary to make a thin leveling layer, the task of which is to hide all the irregularities, the density of the solution can be left medium. Such a layer cannot cope with alignment. In order for the floor surface to be perfectly flat, the mixture must be uniform, without lumps.

Laying leveling mortar

Stages of filling the leveling mixture under the laminated coating:

1. Pour the mixture at the highest point of the base. Thus, it will spread over the entire surface on its own.
2. Distribute the solution with a spatula. For leveling, you can use a toothed roller.
3. To remove air bubbles from the surface, you need to walk on it with a roller. It does not take too long to completely dry the mass. However, in order for it to gain proper strength, you need to wait a few days. During this time, the surface must be protected from the effects of heavy objects. Laying laminate should also not be in a hurry.

Monolithic screed

This kind of screed is relevant in case of large differences. Before you start pouring the screed, you need to install the guides and determine the level of the future floor with a pencil.

Between the beacons, it is necessary to ensure a distance of 60-90 cm. These elements are placed on a cement-sand mortar. The solution for monolithic pouring of floors under a coating in the form of a laminate includes the following components: cement, sand and water in a ratio of 3:1:0.5.

The alignment of the mixture is carried out by the rule. Once it dries, the beacons can be removed.

Laying cement particle boards

DSP boards are an excellent option for leveling the floor under the laminate. After the base is cleared of debris and dust, ordinary wooden boards are laid on the floor.

Their fasteners must be made, taking into account the level of the future floor. Next, using self-tapping screws, you need to attach the DSP boards.

Important! The resulting gaps should be sealed with the appropriate composition. A substrate is laid on top of the plates. This completes the surface preparation and you can proceed with the installation of the laminate.

To level the floor before laying the laminate flooring, plywood sheets are often used. You need to fasten them to the logs in increments of 30 cm.

The plywood must be tight. An additional layer of thermal insulation can be laid between the lags. If it is installed, do not lay a thick substrate under the laminate. You only need a thin layer with the task of cushioning.

Today, various methods are used to level the floors. Which one to choose? Where to start work?

Tools and materials for laminate flooring

To install laminate flooring, you need to prepare a set of tools and materials, which includes:

• Sound-absorbing substrate with a thickness index of not more than 2 mm;
• Polyethylene, laying of which falls on a concrete screed. Necessary for the vapor barrier effect;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Pencil and ruler;
• Mounting clamp. It will be useful when laying the final row of laminate panels.

Substrate for laminate

To provide floors with a waterproofing layer, one cannot do without a substrate that can cope with this task. A film layer from 0.2 mm is suitable as a substrate. Its laying is carried out with an overlap of up to 20 cm and is fixed properly.

Important! If the base of the floors remains wooden, or there is linoleum on it, the waterproofing layer must be abandoned.

However, a layer of soundproofing material is acceptable in this case. In this case, it will be possible to solve two problems at the same time: to reduce the noise level and to make the surface even. For these purposes, polyethylene foam with a thickness of not more than 2 mm will be an ideal material. Fasteners of the material should be done end-to-end.

Location of the laminate

When laying a laminate with your own hands is planned, as a rule, three options for its location are used. These include: laying parallel to the incident light from the window, perpendicular placement or diagonal. A commonly used styling method is the former, as it makes the seams invisible.

When installing a laminate, you need to make sure that the patterns are correctly positioned. This is especially necessary to control at the joints between the walls and the floor. Floors can “walk” or, as they say, “breathe”.

Important! You need to calculate the gap according to the formula: the minimum gap in millimeters must correspond to the width of the room in meters, which is multiplied by 1.5. It should be noted that the criterion for the distance of the gap depends on the humidity index of the room.

The higher the humidity, the larger the gap should be. Gaps should also be provided in the area where the pipes and the doorway are located. The method of laying the laminate can be castle or special at 45 degrees. The first option is called the "click" method.

1. A number of spacer wedges are installed along the perimeter of the walls. You need to arrange them taking into account the width of the gaps. After finishing work, these elements can be removed. You can start laying from the most distant corner of the room.
2. The installation of the first row begins with a board, to which the next one is docked from the end side at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the boards are pressed tightly to the floor and the lock snaps into place.
3. The second row of laminate is assembled in an identical way. You need to snap it on the front side. It is advisable to carry out such work with an assistant, as it implies some difficulties. Thus, all subsequent rows are stacked.

Lock-in laminate flooring

The "Click" laminate laying system is in high demand due to the fact that it is quite light. There are other options, for example "Lock". Its advantages include only the affordable cost of a laminate with this system of locks. It is very difficult to collect it, so it should be done by professionals.

Adhesive laminate also has an acceptable cost, but the installation system is very complicated. For those who decide to do the work of laying the laminate on their own and are doing it for the first time, the “Click” method is suitable, which does not require much effort and is carried out quickly. You need to start laying the flooring from the far corner.

Important! Initially, the first panel is placed. Before starting work, you need to put the wedges in the places of the gaps. The joining of the panels should be such that the spike of the first falls into the spike of the second. Next, the panels need to be adjusted with a rubber mallet.

Then the second row of laminate is installed. When resorting to the lock method of laminate in the kitchen or in the hallway, all locks must be treated with sealant. Such actions will not allow moisture to penetrate.

After the laminate is laid, you need to prevent moisture from getting on it. To care for it, you must use a semi-dry cloth.

Competent laying of a laminate and careful care of it is a guarantee of its long operation. How many years the laminate will last also depends on the patency of the room.

Conclusion

In order to save money, all the above work can be done by hand, but at the same time, so that their quality does not suffer, you must first study all the necessary information and get advice from experienced craftsmen.

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Do-it-yourself floor screed in an apartment under a laminate

1. Foundation requirement.
2. Types of bases for laminate.
3. Preparation of bases for screed.
4. Dry screed.
5. Semi-dry screed.
6. Wet screed.
7. Bulk floor.
8. Findings.

Laminate is a floor covering for finishing floors, consisting of separate plates, assembled into a single structure with the help of interlocks.

The peculiarity of laminate plates is their rigidity and inability to take the shape of the base. And their most vulnerable spot is special locking joints.

An uneven base can lead to the appearance of deformations, creaks, breakage of locks.

• bulging of ends and joints;
• breakage of lock connections;
• the appearance of squeaks and pops;
• rapid wear and deformation of coatings.

Figure 1. Laminate flooring.

The coating during installation is not attached to the base, it is mounted in a floating way. A gap is arranged along the perimeter of the walls to prevent possible deformations from changes in humidity in the premises and temperature changes.

Foundation Requirements

The main requirements for the base under the laminate - evenness, strength and rigidity. Permissible curvature of the coating per linear meter of premises - no more than two millimeters, and linear deviations are allowed within four millimeters

The surface to be laminated must be dry and clean.

To fulfill such conditions, there are several ways to prepare the base for the laminate, depending on the type and condition of the floor, time constraints and financial capabilities.

Types of screeds for laminate

There are several proven methods for leveling concrete floors:

• dry leveling with GKL, GVL sheets or two-layer Knauf floor slabs over a layer of dry insulation;
• installation of a semi-dry screed from a mixture of cement, sand and plasticizers, with the addition of reinforcing fiber and a minimum amount of water;
• pouring cement-sand screed;
• self leveling floor.

Preparation of the base for the screed

When installing any screed, you must first prepare the base.

The preparation of concrete floors is prepared in the following sequence:

1. We clean the surface of old coatings, remove exfoliated and destroyed places.
2. If there is exposed reinforcement, we clean it and treat it with phosphoric acid to remove rust
3. We carefully embroider the cracks, clean the seams between the plates.
4. We cover the places prepared for repair with primers and seal them with cement-sand mortar or special repair mixtures.

As a result, we get a rigid, solid, clean base, ready for any screed.

Foundation waterproofing

Waterproofing of a reinforced concrete base can be performed

• dense polyethylene film;
• ruberoid;
• roofing membrane;
• liquid bituminous mastic.

We apply insulation or wind it up on the walls 10-15 centimeters above the backfill mark.

Figure 2. Waterproofing the base under the screed.

We lay the film sheets and the membrane in whole sheets, if necessary, fasten them together with adhesive tape.

We glue the roofing material on the bases with an overlap and sizing with bitumen.

For waterproofing the passages of the risers through the ceilings, we use sleeves and silicone sealants.

Important! In places where pipes of risers of engineering systems pass, install sleeves and seal the joints with silicone sealants.

Dry screed

Dry screed can be used if the height of the room allows, as well as, if necessary, insulation and soundproofing of floors.

First of all, on the prepared base, we install beacons from a bar or metal profiles, according to the marks of the top of the backfill.

We have lighthouses in such a step that it is convenient to level the dry backfill with a rule or a wooden lath.

We check their horizontal level with a hydraulic or laser level.

Important! Along the perimeter of the room, fix a damper tape made of polyethylene foam on the wall to prevent deformation of the coating.

Between the lighthouses we fall asleep expanded clay.

Figure 3. Expanded clay backfill device.

To create a dense base, it is better to use a mixture of expanded clay of various fractions.

The backfill is carefully tamped and leveled. We give a day for the mixture to thicken.

On the backfill, we lay two-layer gypsum panels of the Knauf system, specially designed for flooring. You can use GVL sheets, laying them out in a run in two layers, fastening them together with self-tapping screws.

Joints between sheets and panels, as well as recesses from self-tapping screws, are sealed with putty. We remove excess putty, and grind the surface to give a perfectly even state.

Figure 4. Dry screed device.

Dry screed is ready for laying laminate immediately after production.

I do not advise! Arrange a dry screed in kitchens and bathrooms where flooding is possible. If water gets into the thickness of expanded clay, it can be removed only by dismantling the coating and removing all wet backfill.

Such a screed does not weigh down the floors and underlying structures, due to the lightness of the expanded clay used in its composition.

The insulation is not affected by microorganisms and rodents, is fire resistant and durable.

Excellent heat and sound insulation performance allows you to use it over unheated and noisy rooms: garages, boiler rooms, pump rooms. It is easy to hide engineering communications and wiring in it.

Semi-dry screed

A semi-dry screed is very popular when installing screeds in new buildings, operated premises, it is excellent as a base for laying linoleum.

Due to the presence of reinforcing fiber in the solution, it is not subject to shrinkage and does not crack. The almost dry consistency allows it to be laid in multi-storey buildings in operation, without fear of moisture from the solution on the lower floors. High mechanization during its laying allows you to perform large volumes in a short time.

The peculiarity of such a screed is the minimum amount of water in the solution. In its preparation, water is only needed to hydrate the cement.

The sequence of manufacturing a semi-dry screed

1. The screed is carried out by a floating method, without connection with the base, therefore it is better to insulate from the reinforced concrete coating with a plastic film or membrane.
2. Along the perimeter of the room on the wall, we glue a damper tape that protects the screed from deformation.
3. Using a hydraulic or laser level, we mark the marks of the top of the screed and transfer them to all walls, along the perimeter of the room, using a chopping cord.
4. Strictly according to the level, we install beacons from a metal profile, fixed with a screed solution.
5. We prepare a solution. For the manufacture of screeds in large volumes, we use a pneumatic blower installed at the construction site. In small volumes, the mortar is prepared at the installation site from ready-made building mixtures for semi-dry screeds, in strict accordance with the instructions on the package. For mixing, we use a construction mixer or a perforator with nozzles intended for this.

Figure 5. Grouting a semi-dry screed.

1. We start laying the mortar from the far wall of the room, compacting and leveling it, using a rule and a vibrating rail. After 2-3 hours, the beacons can be removed, and the resulting seams can be sealed with a solution.
2. We perform the final leveling with a trowel.

A perfectly even base is ready for laying the laminate after complete drying, but not earlier than two weeks later.

Wet screed

Traditional, cement-sand screed for leveling concrete bases.

For greater strength and to prevent cracking, it is better to reinforce it with a steel or special plastic mesh.

We install beacons from a metal profile. Steel pipes can also be used for these purposes. We fix them with quick-drying mixtures of gypsum or alabaster.

We prepare the solution in a mortar mixer or any suitable container using a perforator with nozzles or a construction mixer.

Pour cement and sand into a container with water, in a ratio of 1: 3 and mix thoroughly.

We put the finished solution between the beacons and level it with the rule.

After a day, we remove the beacons, and seal the cavities from them with a solution and overwrite them.

The finished screed must be covered with a film, or moistened regularly.

Such a screed dries for at least a month.

After drying, the surface is covered with two layers of primer.

Laying the laminate is allowed after the screed has completely dried.

Figure 6. Installation of a reinforced cement-sand screed.

self-leveling floor

Self-levelling screeds are made from ready-made dry compositions, including binder fillers from sand and cement, modifying additives and plasticizers.

For even application of the bulk composition, it is better to use special beacons made in the form of metal tripods with an adjustable core.

Beacons are easily removed a day after pouring the floor.

Figure 7. The device of the bulk screed.

The mixture is poured onto the finished base and leveled with a spatula or a special comb.

You can walk on such a screed the very next day, and lay the laminate in 5-15 days, depending on the thickness.

After pouring, the coating must be protected from even the slightest drafts.

Figure 8. Rolling the self-leveling floor with a spiked roller to remove bubbles.

findings

The choice of a base for a laminate depends on many factors: the type and condition of the floor, financial capabilities and personal preferences of the owners of the buildings.

If you need a base for a laminate floor heating system, the ideal option is a semi-dry screed. It can be laid in high-rise buildings, without the risk of flooding the underlying floors. Semi-dry screed is the leader in terms of the number of positive technical and operational characteristics among the main types of coatings.

If there is an unreliable base that cannot be additionally loaded, give preference to a dry screed. Such a screed is ideal for laying floors on the ground or over unheated basements or garages. It can be used to level and insulate wooden floors.

If there are no special requirements for the quality and conditions of pouring, make a traditional cement-sand screed in a wet way.

The main thing is to entrust the screed device to a reliable company that will provide you with a durable, strong and reliable base for laminate flooring.

See also: wood floor screed

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Slabs on the floor under the laminate: requirements for the installation of products

The laminate must be mounted on a flat and solid base, but it is not always possible to lay a concrete screed due to its heavy weight. Therefore, many people are interested in: is it possible to level and strengthen the wooden floor with OSB boards? How to lay the OSB board and strengthen the plank surface so that it does not cause a deterioration in the quality of the laminated coating.

Laminate installation requirements

Laminate

Laminate, although a beautiful type of flooring, is still very moody. The requirements for the foundation are as follows:

• Evenness. The surface of the base must be perfectly flat. Height differences of more than 2-3 mm per two square meters are not allowed.
• Strength. The base must not bend or deform. Rigidity is required from it, and the substrate material is already responsible for the cushioning of the laminated coating.
• Dryness. Laminate does not tolerate moisture, so the wet base is first covered with a layer of waterproofing. This installation method is used when using a concrete screed, because this material strongly absorbs moisture.

If the base does not have these qualities, then the laminate will quickly fail. A concrete screed meets only the first two requirements, and the third is achieved with a waterproofing layer. A reasonable question arises: is it possible to lay a laminate on another surface?

Can it be placed on a wooden base

Concrete screed is strong, but heavy. Arranging it on a wooden floor can go sideways for the entire structure, so it becomes necessary to use a wooden base on a plank surface.

old floor

Installation of laminate on a wooden floor is allowed if you check the strength of the log, strengthen them and level the floorboards with OSB or plywood.

Installation of laminate on a wooden base

It turns out that you can put this capricious material on a plank base. Let's take a closer look at each stage of installation.

Floor revision

Putting expensive material on an untested surface is pure adventurism. If the house was built recently, the flooring was laid on new logs treated with an antiseptic, observing the optimal distance between them for structural strength, then there is no need to open the floor.

In old houses, it is worth checking the quality of the lag. Most likely, they will have to be replaced or strengthened.

Log system

It is necessary to remove all the floorboards and take them out of the room. Then turn the lags over and make sure they are reliable. Since they lay on a concrete floor, including without waterproofing, the wood may have already rotted.

Strengthening the wooden floor

Rotten logs need to be replaced, after laying a layer of waterproofing under them and treating the tree with antiseptic agents. This will seriously increase the life of the lag.

Logs that are still useful for business can be left by diluting them with new ones, thereby reducing the distance between them. The smaller the gap between the lags, the stronger the floor will be. A distance of 60 cm with a floorboard thickness of 30 mm is optimal. It should be borne in mind that leveling plates will lie on top of the floorboards, which will further strengthen the structure.

After the logs are laid, their horizontal level is checked, you can begin to mount the floorboards. It is better not to use warped boards, because in the future problems will arise in leveling the surface. Leave only flat boards, and replace the old ones with new ones of the same thickness. The floorboards should lie down in the room and acclimatize in it, therefore they are prepared in advance, 2-3 days in advance.

It is impossible to lay the floorboards butt-to-butt, because if they subsequently pick up moisture, they will push the boards up, which will cause serious damage to the laminate. Between the floorboards leave gaps of 3-5 mm.

When laying floorboards, also do not forget to check the overall horizontal level and each board individually. Differences of 1-2 mm are compensated by plates. It is very difficult to achieve maximum evenness of the floor from the boards.

Important! It is impossible to use material from various breeds in order to save money. Boards will sag and resize differently. It is better to completely change the floorboards, even if the new ones are the same breed as the old ones.

Don't skimp on fasteners. You need to sink nails or self-tapping screws into an array of boards so that the plates do not lean on them. It's better to use self-tapping screws because they don't come out like nails and cause squeaks later.

Leveling the OSB surface with plates

After the floor is covered with boards, proceed with the installation of tiled material. Tiles will serve as a leveling layer. Plus, they will distribute the load from one point to several floorboards at once, so the floor will not sag.

OSB sheets are fastened to the floor with self-tapping screws. At the same time, the heads are sunk into the plate. Lay the leveling material end-to-end. The plates are moisture resistant, therefore, the practical ones do not change the linear dimensions.

OSB alignment

The question arises, what thickness of the plates to use, and how many layers to lay them. There is a lot of discussion on the forums about this. To choose the right thickness, proceed from:

The thickness of the slab does not matter much if the installation is carried out on top of the floorboards, because the OSB serves only as a leveling layer and distributes the weight over them. But if the plates are laid directly on top of the log, then you will already have to decide on the thickness and layers.

Hats should be recessed into the material

In such cases, it is advised to lay the material in two layers in a run-up, with plates, 18 mm thick. So the stress from the upper layer of the plates is distributed over the adjacent plates of the lower layer, and the risk of deformation is minimized.

Benefits of using OSB boards

The use of OSB boards has a number of advantages over other materials.

OSB boards

• This material is durable. The special manufacturing technology of the wood derivative allows it to be used for any purpose. OSB is widely used in the construction of houses from SIP panels, as one of the main materials.
• Moisture resistant. It is treated with special antiseptic agents that allow the material to withstand moisture. This allows you to lay it in rooms with high humidity.
• Doesn't deform. The boards are made with a special chip orientation. Thanks to this, the base under the laminate is smooth and durable.
• Impregnations and special adhesives are not hazardous to human health.
• It burns badly. OPB practically cannot catch fire, because special means in its structure do not allow oxygen to penetrate inside.

Using OSB boards to level the surface for installing laminate is very convenient. Since the plates are large, the installation process does not take much time.

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laminatepol.ru

is it possible to put a laminate on a concrete screed, how to put plywood under a laminate, a substrate in a photo and video

Today, the market is replete with various floor coverings. One of the most popular materials is laminate, originally created to imitate parquet, but surpassed it in terms of cost, quality, unpretentiousness and good visual qualities.

Laminate is a material consisting of several layers, as you can see by looking at the photo of the design of the laminated panel. The connection of several laminate panels with locks allows you to create a flat surface.

This material has gained particular popularity due to its multilayer construction:

1. The top layer of the coating has increased resistance to abrasion and external loads.
2. The decorative layer comes out and can have a variety of images on its surface, from imitation of natural materials (stone or wood) to arbitrary images.
3. High density HDF board.
4. The bottom layer protects the laminate boards from moisture and ensures that the shape of the structure is retained.

Advantages and disadvantages of laminate

Despite the seemingly complex design, laying laminate on a concrete screed is extremely easy: special locks are used to connect the panels, which do not require fastening to the floor. Connecting locks allow not only to effortlessly assemble the structure, but also, if necessary, disassemble it without damage.

Another positive quality of the laminated coating is that after laying the panels, they do not need to be further processed (painted, sanded, etc.). In addition, the laminate is very good at cleaning: there are no cracks and gaps in its design, so there are simply no problem areas.

Of course, the laminate has its drawbacks. The most noticeable of them is the weak resistance to moisture: if the coating is able to survive a small amount of water, then a large volume of water or prolonged contact with it can provoke deformation and destruction of the laminate.

Another disadvantage is the fact that the fiberboard contained in the laminate resonates very well, as a result of which any sounds (from steps or objects falling to the floor) will be heard. A noise-insulating substrate under a laminate on a screed can slightly reduce this factor, but it will not be possible to completely get rid of the problem.

Conditions for laying laminate flooring

In order for the laying of the laminate on the screed to go smoothly, and in the future there would be no problems of any kind, the following conditions must be met before installation:

1. The air temperature in the room where the installation work will be carried out should be in the region of 15-30 degrees Celsius, and the humidity should be from 40 to 70%.
2. Before laying, the material must stay indoors for at least two days, so that the temperature change in the dimensions of the panels does not interfere with their joining.
3. The floor under the laminate must be level (2 mm deviation per 1 m is allowed). The base can be created in any possible way, but unevenness on it is unacceptable (for more details: "How to prepare the floor for a laminate and what to consider").
4. Before laying the laminate on the screed, you need to clean the base from dust, dirt and debris. In addition, the base layer must be dry.
5. Laminate panels are installed on a special lining that has heat and sound insulating properties. To protect the laminate floor from moisture and steam, a polyethylene film is used, which is spread under the substrate.
6. It is possible to lay a laminate floor only from those panels that do not have defects visible to the naked eye.

Preparing for the installation of laminate

The first thing to do before laying laminate flooring is to create an even base, without flaws and drops. Further actions largely depend on the method that was used to level the base.

In any case, the screed must be intact and not damaged - in this case, the question of whether it is possible to lay a laminate on a concrete screed disappears by itself (read: "How to make a floor screed under a laminate with your own hands"). Small differences and light cracks in the screed can be corrected by using a self-levelling compound, which allows you to eliminate small irregularities.

To create a new screed, a concrete or cement-sand mortar can be used - the laminate can be laid on any surface. To mix the cement-sand mortar, it is necessary to observe a ratio of 1: 4 (cement - sand), and the concrete mortar is made from 5-7 parts of screening per 1 part of cement. See also: "How to lay a laminate floor on a concrete floor correctly."

Before proceeding directly to pouring the solution, you need to set the beacons, which will be landmarks when creating the base. For lighthouses, a metal profile is used, which is installed flush with the future base. The distance between the profiles should be slightly less than the width of the rule.

Lighthouses are installed on the solution and dry out within a day, after which you can start pouring. The next day, it is worth grouting over the finished screed, after which the base should dry completely. The longer it takes for the floor screed to dry for laying the laminate, the better, because the slightest moisture has a negative effect on the laminate.

You can fix an old screed with differences not exceeding 2 cm using a self-leveling mixture. To do this, it is necessary to mark the required level on all walls and fill the floor to this level with a pre-prepared mixture, and the filling should be carried out in one go. It will be possible to lay the laminate on a concrete screed only after it has completely solidified.

Installation of laminated panels

Proper installation of laminate flooring depends on several factors: careful preparation, quality materials, and attention to detail.

To achieve a good result, you need to act in order, performing the steps according to the following algorithm:

1. First you need to remove the screed well (it is best to use a construction vacuum cleaner). When the base is removed, a plastic film is laid on it, and on it is pre-prepared plywood for a screed under the laminate, used as a substrate. To ensure maximum tightness of the structure, the rows of material should be connected with adhesive tape.
2. Immediately before laying, it is worth installing spacer wedges around the perimeter of the laminate, which will provide a gap between the wall and the coating. In addition, there must be clearance around any obstacles that extend beyond the plane of the base (communication networks, pipelines, etc.).
3. Laminate flooring can be glued and clicked, but the technique is the same in both cases: the panels are inserted into each other and fitted tightly. After that, the panels are laid on the floor. The joints of the panels should be treated with sealant to ensure maximum insulation.
4. First of all, the side locks are connected, and only then the parts are inserted in a row. Laying usually begins from heating devices. For a good laying of material around the pipes, the panels are notched flush with them and a large hole is drilled. The assembly of the panels continues in the same way, and strokes are used to close the gaps.
5. The last panel in the row must be adjusted to size, which usually requires cutting the panel in the longitudinal plane. This stage requires special accuracy: an incorrect measurement will cause the board to be included in the list of unsuitable. The installation of the last panel is carried out according to the usual method, but if desired, you can use a zigzag bracket.
6. The final stage of the installation of the laminate is the installation of the skirting board. There are many mounting options: the plinth can be fixed with dowels, self-tapping screws or special fasteners. If necessary, you can pick up skirting boards with a built-in channel for laying an electrical cable.

Conclusion

Laminate is an excellent floor covering that has a number of positive qualities in its arsenal. If the question arises as to whether it is possible to lay a laminate on a screed, it is only necessary to clarify what condition the screed is in: in the absence of defects and irregularities, the answer to the question will be positive, and then everything will depend on the quality of the work done on the installation of the laminated coating.

polspec.com

is it possible to put, how to align, how to put, laying on photos and videos

If you decide to make a laminate flooring in the house, then you should be prepared for the fact that you need a quality base under it. Concrete screed for such a coating is carried out for a long time, but you can do without such a careful approach by laying chipboard under the laminate.

Basic requirements for the foundation

When buying a laminate, you receive instructions for it, which indicate the basic requirements for the surface of the subfloor:

• The base of the floor must be dry, and the humidity should not exceed 6%. With high humidity, the laminate cracks and deforms;
• Hardness and strength of the floor;
• Base height differences should not exceed 2 mm or not more than 1 mm per square meter. At high height differences, creaking may occur due to friction in the locks of the laminated coating.

Subfloor material

One of the best bases for a laminated coating is a high-quality concrete screed, on which a leveling agent and a subfloor are additionally applied, which can also be replaced with hardening procedures, for example, impregnation with polymer compositions will strengthen the surface of the screed for laminate. However, using even the simplest screed method, you will have to wait about a month for it to dry before laying the laminate.

If the deadlines are running out and you are not ready to wait a month, then you will probably think about whether it is possible to lay a laminate on a chipboard, because this plate allows you to create a fairly flat surface. Indeed, chipboard is one of the best substitutes for concrete screed. The slabs are securely sewn onto logs, concrete or wooden base, creating the perfect subfloor as in the photo (read: "How to level a wooden floor under a laminate - methods from the practice of masters").

Another advantage of chipboard is the characteristics similar to laminate, because they are both made of wood:

• Strength and density of products - more than 450 kg per square meter;
• Low thermal conductivity, retaining cold from the concrete floor;
• Durability.

Also, if laying chipboard is a difficult task for you, then some manufacturers produce grooved boards with grooves, which will greatly facilitate the process of their connection.

Having considered all the advantages of chipboard, we can say that laying laminate on chipboard is one of the easiest and most practical solutions.

Base mounting

Having decided on the material for the base, it is worth talking about how to level the chipboard floor under the laminate.

Chipboard is laid under the laminate in two ways: on the base or on the logs.

Mounting chipboard on the base is the easiest method. The slabs are attached to the concrete or wooden floor with anchors or hardened self-tapping screws 41 mm long. The distance between fasteners should be no more than 50 cm. When choosing chipboard, pay attention to its thickness: it should be more than 12 mm. The panels can also be fixed in two layers by overlapping the seams. Also, when installing the plates, leave a gap of 1 cm at the walls, which you will later close with skirting boards.

After laying all the sheets, carefully check the base under the laminate. There should be no protrusions and uneven joints on the surface (read: "How and how to level the floor under the laminate - do-it-yourself leveling options"). If such defects are present, they can be easily removed using a disc grinder. More complex irregularities are removed with a professional belt machine, which is often used for sanding parquet.

Leveling the chipboard floor under the laminate can also be done by laying the boards on the logs. This method is much more time-consuming and time-consuming than the previous one, but it has a number of advantages. The main advantage of this floor leveling method is the space that remains between the main floor and the chipboard. Insulation can be laid in these voids, as well as engineering communications can be hidden. This method is especially relevant in houses, under the base of which there is an uninsulated basement or soil.

Before laying the lag, you need to check the base: grind off the unevenness of the old wooden floor so that the differences do not exceed 2 mm. If the base is a concrete floor, then fill all the holes with quick-drying cement mortar. A waterproofing material, such as polyethylene, should be laid on the base floor. However, if you are sure that moisture will not appear from below, for example, with capillary suction of water, then you can save on this moment.

Now lay the logs at a distance of 60 cm from each other and secure them with hardware. At this stage, it is also worth laying insulation and all necessary communications between the rails. If you use creaky materials as a heater, then it is worth laying a thin vapor-permeable material on top of the log, for example, with glassine, so that the chipboard does not creak against the insulation.

Next, you need to install chipboard with a thickness of more than 18 mm on the logs. To do this, you need to carefully cut the material and cut it to size so that the joints of the plates pass in the middle of the log, otherwise the chipboard may not withstand the load and deform. Fasten the plates with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-40 cm. Do not forget to leave a gap of 1 cm between the wall and the outer plates.

Then also level the floor and treat with antiseptics, which were mentioned in the previous method.

Laying laminate

After all the preparatory work, it remains only to figure out how to put the laminate on the chipboard. Laying on chipboard is carried out in the same way as on other surfaces, but it is important to first create a perfectly flat surface.

First of all, a special substrate is laid, for example, foamed polyethylene or cork with a thickness of not more than 3 mm, otherwise there will be a large backlash, which will lead to the destruction of the locks of the laminated lamellas.

Install wedges near each wall to leave a gap against the walls when assembling the laminate. Start assembling the laminate from the corner of the far wall. The first lamella is installed in a corner, then the next one is attached to it from a narrow end. Once you reach the wall, you can cut the material to size. Start the next row with a cut board to make a “chess” connection. You can knock out the lamellas with a mallet through an unnecessary piece of laminate. See also: "Is it possible to lay a laminate on a laminate - practical recommendations."

Ptm plate

Pouring concrete floor slab

Laminate flooring has long been in vogue and steadfastly holds its position. This is due to the simplicity of its installation, which allows an inexperienced buyer to install the floors himself, without the involvement of specialists, thereby saving family money. Laminate has the widest choice of colors, allowing you to create a variety of interiors. However, for the installation of a laminate flooring, you need to know some of its characteristic features in order to avoid rapid floor wear in the future. To install laminate flooring, the substrate must be level.

Why level laminate flooring?

This question is asked by everyone who is going to lay a laminate in their apartment or room during repairs or initial construction. It may not be so important for other types of flooring, but for a laminate floor it is a must. This is due to the fact that the laminate is very sensitive to changes in floor relief, with an uneven base, its integrity may be violated and its working properties may be lost:

• Laminated boards under the weight of a person have the property sag if under them there are voids formed as a result of laying the floor on an uneven surface.
• With a relief surface of the base, the locks fastening the panels can open up and let in moisture to the inner side of the panel, which is not covered with a lamella. The floor below can quickly delaminate and become unusable.
• Under the influence of loads, cracks form in the locks or swelling of panels due to a large difference in relief that does not comply with SNiP standards.
• Boards under walking people can publish characteristic creak .

To avoid such shortcomings, the base for the laminate should be even and flat.

How to determine the unevenness of the floor

It is rather difficult to determine the unevenness of the floor by eye, especially if the concrete base is poured evenly and there are no visible humps. However, there are such floor errors that are immediately visible, these include:

All this needs to be eliminated. The instructions for laying a laminated sheet clearly indicate the norms according to which the relief difference should be no more than 1 mm / m, it is better that it does not exist at all. In this case, properly laid laminated boards will serve you for a long time.

Ways to level the floor under the laminate

A concrete base often shows poor builder work that needs to be corrected. All floor leveling technologies depend on the condition of the concrete base. Even if in the previous repair the concrete slab was leveled for some kind of coating, it still needs to be brought to the standard level, because during this period it could crumble or get other irregularities.

The choice of leveling method largely depends on the condition of the flooring and the tasks that you have set yourself.

• If during the repair you decide to raise the floor by 3-5 cm, you can apply cement-sand screed.
• If the floor is so uneven and it will have to be raised above 5 cm, then it is recommended to level it using the “dry” GVL screed method or using plywood sheets that are mounted on wooden logs. The use of cement mortar for high floor leveling will result in plate weighting pressing on the lower floor.
• Your wood floor is in good condition - take your time to dismantle it. It can serve as a base for a laminate, leveling can be done sanding in places where there are problems.
• In the case of a major overhaul, it is better to get rid of the old coating, because the old wooden floor will begin to sag over time, and the laminate flooring will begin to become unusable.

How to level the floor under the laminate with your own hands

Cement-sand mortar

You can level the concrete base with a cement mortar in two stages.

The second step is to pour a fast-hardening self-leveling mixture over the entire surface to achieve a higher leveling quality.

Self-levelling compound it is possible to pour a concrete base in case of a relief difference of not more than 5 mm / m. It is a bulk material sold in all hardware stores; the instructions attached to it clearly indicate the proportions of its dilution with water. The filling process is very fast and convenient:

The disadvantage of the cement screed method is its long time period, and if you do not live on the first floor, you need to lay it under a concrete base waterproofing layer so that liquid does not show through on the ceiling of the lower floor.

Dry way

It is possible to level concrete without pouring it with mortar. To do this, use dry mixes for leveling floors.

If the concrete base has slight unevenness, you can simply put a 2 mm waterproofing layer first, and loose plywood sheets on top.

Leveling a wooden floor

Repair the slightly damaged floor, replace the old boards with new ones, sand it. If the floor is fairly level, no further preparation is needed. If, nevertheless, it is required, you can level the floor by laying it on wooden boards plywood sheets or cement particle boards(DSP), which greatly simplifies installation. They are placed on a wooden flooring, the resulting gaps are closed, and they are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws. Beacon rails for leveling the wooden floor in this case are not needed, for this a device is enough - a level.

If the relief of the floor does not exceed the norm of more than 2 mm / m, you can apply scraping work to the repaired floor. For scraping the area, a drum scraping machine is used, for processing corners - an angular one. Before scraping work, it is necessary to prepare the surface to be treated.

If your wooden floor is quite old with rotten boards, remove it and level the concrete base in other ways.

Leveling your floor for laminate flooring depends on how much you can raise your base so the ceilings don't get too low; the existing floor, the level of its condition and relief.

Kirill Sysoev

Calloused hands do not know boredom!

Content

It is useful for any master to know how to level the floors under the laminate in the apartment. This expensive coating requires careful preparation in order to get a result that pleases the owner for a long time. Due to uneven flooring, the coating may swell and crack. It is important to consider the features of the procedure if you want to perform it yourself.

How to level the floor under the laminate

To know how to level the floor under the laminate in the apartment, you must first decide how to do it. For those who want to do without the help of workers, for a free result, you will have to invest in materials. There are several options, the choice of which depends on the type of coverage:

1. If the subfloor in a private house is concrete, then it is leveled with a mixture of sand plus cement, or with ready-made materials that have increased noise and heat insulation properties.
2. If the floor is wooden, it is better to level it with plywood, but when it is old and rotten, then a concrete or dry screed will be required to help the surface self-level.

The screed is long and difficult to carry out, so you should take into account all the nuances of its implementation - raising the floor level, monitoring the absence of a slope near the surface. In addition to plywood, wooden floors are leveled with cement chipboard or chipboard, which simplifies the procedure. The alignment process includes the placement of beacons for the screed, the correct preparation of the mixture. The rest of the processes are easy, require minimal knowledge.

Preparing the floor for laminate

This material is whimsical in terms of operation or maintenance, so it should be placed on a carefully prepared base. This process includes the elimination of cracks, tubercles, cracks, irregularities. If they are not removed, the coating will be damaged due to the increased load in the places of the remaining defects. Also, the high humidity in the screed, rotten boards, cracks in the concrete base are terrible for the material.

The preparation itself consists of the following steps:

• Dismantling of the old coating. It is not always necessary - parquet, tiled, linoleum or carpet can become the basis for a laminate if their height differences are minimal and amount to 3 mm per square meter. If the differences in level are higher, then the coating is removed as carefully as possible so as not to damage the screed. Rotten and creaking boards are being replaced in the wooden floors.
• alignment- is carried out in accordance with the basis. Concrete floors can be leveled with a self-leveling screed, and wooden floors can be leveled with plywood. Before these processes, you need to clean the base well so that there is no debris or dirt on it. If a screed is carried out, then you need to prepare a homogeneous mixture without lumps.

How to level a wooden floor under a laminate with plywood

If you don’t know how to level a wooden floor under a laminate, then pay attention to plywood as the most affordable and easiest way. It does not require extensive knowledge in construction, it is carried out simply and quickly. Thanks to this, leveling the floor with plywood becomes an operational process, and the owners are able to get the desired result in a short time.

Leveling a wooden floor under a laminate is carried out according to the following technology:

1. Determination of height differences using a laser or water level. This is done by measuring the entire room with the installation of marks on the walls. With differences of more than 3 mm, plywood will have to be laid to level and secure the base.
2. The simplest leveling method is without mounting the log (additional boards) and installing support bars. In this case, you need to make indents from the walls by 2 cm, lay sheets of plywood with a gap of 5 mm. With two layers, brickwork is made, and the fastening passes along the highest points, evenly distributed.
3. If the differences are large, up to 8 cm, then you will have to install mini-logs, mount slats and wooden boards to create a single network of supports. First, precise calculations are made, measurements are made, the dimensions of the elements are calculated, then gratings are laid and plywood sheets are laid on top. The lags are fixed with glue or self-tapping screws, and the gaps between them are filled with sealant or sealant.
4. The third way of laying is called lathing, using turned supports. First, they are cut out of boards or plywood, and their thickness takes into account the height differences in the field. From the supports, a grid is made in the form of a square, laid on the floor, covered with plywood sheets. Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws with dowels, varnished on top.
5. To level the floor, plywood with a thickness of more than 1 cm, grades FK or FSF, which can withstand mechanical stress, is water and wear resistant, is suitable. It is better to choose the first grade, which does not contain defects and deformations, pre-treated with an antiseptic.
6. Before laying plywood, it is advisable to check the condition of the communication pipes, if any, because after leveling the floor, access to them will be closed. Before laying, it is better to pre-fold the sheets of plywood, see how they look, and only then proceed to the final fixation.

Many consumers are interested in how to level the floor under the laminate so that it meets the requirements of the flooring material manufacturers. The leveling base is different, so there is no single answer. Read on to find out how best to prepare different surfaces for subsequent laminate flooring.

What are the main requirements for the mounting surface?

Laminate is a piece of plates that are assembled into a solid floor surface thanks to locking connections. The material is finishing, that is, it is not subject to further finishing. The peculiarity of the plates is their rigidity - they cannot take the form of a base. If the base surface is not even enough, the material structure is subjected to increased stress, which leads to premature wear and mechanical damage to the laminate during operation.

Irregularities of the base also affect the quality of the connection of the locks. The seams between the plates laid on uneven areas of the floor will diverge, with significant curvature, the connecting devices will break. Hence the main requirement for the mounting surface is evenness. . The permissible curvature of the floor base should not exceed 2 mm per linear meter in all parts of the room.

The laminate is laid on the substrate in a floating way. This means that the floor covering is not rigidly fixed to the base, while there remains a deformation gap from the walls along the perimeter of the assembled layer. This circumstance explains another requirement for the base - horizontality. On an inclined surface, the coating will gradually "slide" to the lower wall and rest against the barrier, which will lead to the impossibility of thermal deformation of the plates and their gradual destruction.

In addition, the mounting surface must be strong and dry (laminate delaminates and becomes unusable with high humidity). These requirements for the base dictate the choice of possible ways to prepare the work surface for the installation of this flooring material. Typically, rough bases for leveling under a laminate are:

• old concrete (cement-sand screeds);
• floor slabs (in apartments and some private houses);
• wooden flooring on the logs.

Screeds and floor slabs are of a similar nature, so the methods of their preparation are often identical. Consider what technologies are applicable for their alignment.

Screed from "wet" cement-sand mixtures - how to create?

As a material for leveling surfaces, self-prepared cement-sand material or a solution of ready-made packaged mixtures (levelers) can be used. Their usage is pretty much the same. It is financially more profitable to prepare the solution with your own hands, but it is inconvenient to do this in apartments of multi-storey buildings, where it is preferable to use packaged mixtures. The levelers are easier to lift to the floors and mix the working solution (using a conventional construction mixer or an appropriate attachment for a drill).

These materials are used for the manufacture of screeds with a curvature of the base relative to the horizontal from 1 to 8 cm. In order for the manufactured one to meet the requirements, guides (beacons) located in the same horizontal are installed before pouring the solution, and after partial setting of the mixture, grinding is carried out, leveling small irregularities . The technology of a screed device from these materials involves such steps.

1. 1. Preparation of the base surface, including cleaning of debris and dust, removal of exfoliated material.
2. 2. Waterproofing of the base, which consists in covering the base surface with a dense polyethylene film or rolled waterproofing materials.
3. 3. Setting the guides at the level of the intended surface of the subfloor.
4. 4. Pouring the mortar between the beacons and leveling according to the level of the installed guides.
5. 5. Removal of beacons (one day after pouring), sealing the formed depressions and grinding the entire surface.

It is supposed to be on a dry basis, so it is necessary to wait for the "wet" screed to dry. It is not necessary to expect full maturation (crystallization) of cement for 26-28 days, since the load on the prepared base is not critical.

Leveling with semi-dry solutions - what are the advantages?

Now more and more often semi-dry mixtures are used for screeding. Their difference from classical solutions is in the low percentage of solvent and the use of plasticizers that reduce the surface tension of water, which facilitates the mixing of the components of a semi-dry solution and their better wetting.

The prepared mixture has a crumbly consistency, does not emit free moisture. Due to this feature of the solution, there is no need for waterproofing measures. The second advantage is the almost unlimited thickness of the screed, which allows you to bring the plane of the floors of all rooms into one horizontal line with significant initial differences in the levels of the floor slabs (typical for apartments in old multi-storey buildings). The third positive feature is the ease of creating a flat surface that meets the requirements for laminate flooring.

How is the leveling of the floor under the laminate with semi-dry mixtures? The technology is simple, includes the following sequence of actions.

1. 1. Substrate preparation (same as described for normal screed).
2. 2. Installation of beacons.
3. 3. Preparation of the mixture (usually a special mixer is used, but a conventional concrete mixer can also be used).
4. 4. Layer-by-layer filling and tamping of the semi-dry mortar so that the material ends up being slightly higher than the guides.
5. 5. Next, as a rule, remove the excess layer of the mixture that rises above the guides, and smooth the surface.

A semi-dry screed is much stronger than a classic screed, does not shrink, and dries faster. Already for 3-4 days at room temperature and above, laying the finishing floor covering is possible. When leveling floors with sand-cement screeds of any type, it is necessary to install a damper tape along the perimeter of the walls, which would compensate for linear deformations of the floor base when the temperature changes.

Self-levelling materials - if there is curvature

If the floor slabs or the once-made concrete screed have a slight curvature in horizontal projection (up to 3 cm), it is more advisable to use special leveling mixtures, which, during their pouring, independently form a flat horizontal surface. These are the so-called self-levelling mortars, although often this material is called self-leveling floors.

Dry ready mixes are sold packaged in paper bags of 20 and 25 kilograms and involve the preparation of the working material by dissolving in water and mixing with a construction mixer. Prepared according to the manufacturer's recommendations (indicated on the packaging), the solution is poured onto a concrete base, spread with a notched trowel, and then rolled with a spiked roller. The last operation is necessary to remove air bubbles that reduce the strength of the material.

The use of self-leveling materials, despite their relatively high cost, is justified when leveling a slight curvature of the base surface. After pouring, the solution quickly sets (1-2 hours) and dries (a day or two), which significantly reduces the forced technological interruptions in repair work.

Dry base preparation methods - 2 options

These include the flooring of various slabs according to the installed logs and a dry screed according to the technology Knauf. Both methods provide a base surface that meets the requirements for the subsequent laying of the laminate without the need to take a break to dry the material used. The first method involves the installation of wooden blocks with a certain step, depending on the nature and thickness of the material laid on top. As leveling boards use: OSB, plywood, chipboard.

Under the laminate, they prefer to take OSB boards that meet the requirements for surface quality in all respects, are more affordable in terms of material costs and are most convenient to use. After installation, this material does not require additional processing, is resistant to microorganisms (rot, mold) and is durable. If it is necessary to insulate the floor between the lags, heat-insulating material is laid. There will be no difficulties with laying pipe communications (sewerage, water supply, heating).

A dry screed is a surface consisting of gypsum fiber boards fastened together, laid on a leveled bed of fine-grained expanded clay. This solves two problems at once: the creation of a solid surface and its insulation (sound insulation). Installation is done like this:

1. 1. Removable metal rails are installed in accordance with the horizontal level.
2. 2. In the intervals between the exposed plates, we fill in expanded clay, lightly tamp and level the filling with the rule according to the level of the beacons.
3. 3. We take out the guides and fill in the resulting voids in accordance with the total area.
4. 4. We lay out special gypsum fiber boards equipped with locking joints on the formed bedding.
5. 5. We connect the finished fragments with each other using locks.
6. 6. Having closed the entire intended area with plates, we additionally fix the seams with self-tapping screws.

As a result, a strong, even and insulated surface is quickly formed, suitable for laying a laminate or other floor covering. The disadvantage of a dry screed is its insufficient moisture resistance and comparative high cost.

Getting ready to install laminate flooring

The floor surface formed by the boards installed on the logs is not always suitable for laying the laminate even after preparation. In order not to waste effort and money on useless activities, it is immediately necessary to find out the condition of the starting wooden surface. To do this, we take the spirit level () and a rule 2 m long or more. If a significant curvature (cavities, bulges) or a large deviation from the horizontal plane is found, it is better to leave the plank surface leveling venture as unpromising.

When the surface is generally flat, horizontal, and the boards are strong and not rotten (single problematic floorboards can be replaced), such a wooden floor is suitable for preparing it for the subsequent laying of the laminate. How to level a wooden floor under a laminate so that it meets the requirements? There are two ways:

• grinding (sanding) of the surface to achieve compliance with the required parameters;
• leveling the floor by laying on the surface of rigid slabs of the same plywood or OSB.

The first method is very laborious, but it can be much cheaper if you carry out the scraping yourself using an available tool (hand scraper, planer). There is an option to rent a scraping machine. In this case, the floor will align perfectly, the process will not take much time and effort, but you will have to pay for equipment rental. Alignment with plates is done quickly (cutting, laying, fixing to the boards with self-tapping screws), but with the cost of their purchase. After laying OSB or plywood, the surface is not ideal, but with allowances for thicker underlay, it is generally suitable.