Door skew problems. If the interior door touches the box - Blog Stroyremontiruy The wooden door is not included in the box

Publication date: 01/04/2014

After you have installed the door in the opening, you need to adjust it. And of course, you need to do this before filling the gap between the box and the doorway with mounting foam. First of all, you need to check the location of the box by level (whether it is skewed somewhere). To do this, close the door and check the gaps between the canvas and the box around the entire perimeter, all the joints of the door and the box - everything should be even. If it was not possible to initially establish any defects, then we proceed to a more thorough check.
To properly adjust the newly installed interior door, we check it for the following faults and installation defects:

1. Door won't close- if the door cannot be closed, or a significant effort is applied, then there can be three problems:
   • Skewed box when closing the door - occurs when you start to close the door, the box warps. To correct it, it is necessary to check whether all box beams are fastened together correctly (the angle between two connected beams must be strictly 90 degrees). If this is not the case, you will have to remove the box, find out and eliminate the unevenness of the gash and carefully fix the beams with two screws on each side of the four corners of the box (if the door is without a threshold, then there will be two corners, respectively). And if the connection is not strong enough, you need to add another self-tapping screw in the middle, on the other side of the corner.
   • Incorrectly (not flush with the surface or one edge is recessed more than the other) the groove for the hinges is selected either on the door or the frame, or on both together. Because of this, the door is askew in the box. First, check and properly tighten the missing / under-tightened screws. If it does not help, remove the hinges and deepen the necessary grooves, or, conversely, put something under the hinges. It is necessary to ensure that all the loops (“moms”, “dads”) are cut evenly.
   • When installing the hinges, you set the hinge halves too far away from the edge of the boxed beam or door (need to be fixed so that the mark shown in the figure is flush with the edge of the door / frame). And if there is a sealing tape in the box, then the depth of the loops should be even less. Correct this by moving the hinges where necessary and fastening them properly.
2. The gap between the canvas and the box is not uniform happens due to:
   • Incorrectly cut/trimmed box bars. The inside corners of the box must be strictly 90 degrees. Even 2 extra millimeters in one of the bars when connected can give a different angle and, as a result, a significant difference in the gap. The same applies to the uneven connection of the bars.
   • Irregular door. Yes, doors quite often from the factory have a difference in size along the edges, that is, an uneven rectangle. It is eliminated either by fitting the box to the size of the door, or, if possible, by fine-tuning the door leaf to even dimensions (with a planer, file, sandpaper).
   • Incorrect installation of the box. When fixing the box in the opening, excessive force was applied to one of the fasteners. As a rule, this applies to the loop bar. For example, if you overtighten the bottom fastener of the hinge bar a little, then the door in the frame will warp, which will cause an uneven gap. Eliminated by exposure to a long level, which can identify both the general position of the bar, and the presence of any concave / convex parts of the bar.
3. A half-open door spontaneously opens or, conversely, closes- this is the problem of the verticality of the box. If the door itself opens - the top of the box is tilted, if it closes - the bottom of the box. It is corrected by placing the box strictly vertically in two planes (so that the box does not fall forward or backward and neither to the right nor to the left side) and fixing it in this position. To do this, use the building level or plumb. Align the hinge bar of the box, it depends on its correct alignment and fastening (when fastening with fasteners, make sure that both hinges are in the same vertical plane and it doesn’t turn out that one hinge is recessed or extended more) depends on whether your door will spontaneously open / close. The level in this work, of course, is preferable to a plumb line, and the longer it is, the better and easier it is to identify irregularities and distortions of the box (hinged and other bars). If you have a short level, you can attach it to the rule or a long straight rail. Most often, it is not necessary to straighten the entire box, but only the hinged timber.

We can say with confidence that the process of adjusting the door block due to improper installation is a very tedious and long task, therefore, when assembling / installing the box, inserting the hinges, do not rush and do the work carefully and accurately,

Good afternoon everyone. There was such a problem. Installed interior doors. Everything went smoothly, the doors opened and closed without problems. A week has passed and the door began to cling to the box.

1. One door has mortise hinges. She began to cling to the box from the side of the latch. I cut the loops deeper, the defect disappeared, but after 4 days it reappeared.
2. Two doors have overhead hinges. They open/close normally. Now they cling to the box both from the side of the latch and from below.
   All doors are mounted on 2 hinges at the top and bottom. With indents of 20 cm from the edges.

As I understand there was a sagging door. How to deal with it? Maybe I missed something when installing the doors?

Maybe sag. Maybe the doors are swollen, if the array. Or maybe the foam gradually presses.

@ serg32 , apparently during installation they made a minimum gap - treat only by reinstalling - or wait for the heating season - then they will close themselves - = by the new year

What gaps did you set initially? And what is "below"? Photos - in the studio!

My friend had this problem. "Pushed apart" with a jack. A couple of bars, see 50-70 each, were placed.

The gaps between the frame and the door leaf on all sides are 3mm. From below, this means that the bottom of the door leaf does not catch on the bottom of the door frame.

otyan, but how was it moved apart with a jack?

I’m redoing just such a crooked job now - I put some kind of finisher, who then disappeared, leaving the doors not completed and not closing. And it’s not a gaster, but a local, Russian, according to the client. it’s impossible to do it completely normally already, since the doors are already partially embedded with fittings at random, the curved insert can no longer be corrected, you can only correct it so that everything more or less looks and functions. Universal masters can rarely do everything they undertake to do, make at least a four, keep that in mind.

vadimd wrote:
When the door sags, the upper part of the canvas clings to the box.

poor quality installation. Remove the casing, cut out the foam, fasten the box through (under the plug), foam and put the casing back. This is the simplest, and works at 146%.

Top of the long side. TS wrote about the bottom of the canvas, you can understand what is clinging to the threshold. That's why I asked for a photo.

Treat as described above - either re-install or anchor the box from the hinge side, usually at the top hinge and a wedge under the bottom one.

OW wrote:
Maybe your hinges, due to the weight of the sash, cannot cope. Try adding another loop (third). You can put 3-4 hinges in the door, the main thing is that they cope.

It is difficult to achieve alignment of more than 2 loops. The geometry of the canvas-box changes - the moisture content of the shrinkage shrinkage. As a result, the middle loops of the furnace.

The same problem. Installed doors cling to the box. If there were “ordinary doors”, I would decide everything at once. But the doors and the frame are finished with veneer, which is scratched when you try to close the door. Hence the question. Any advice on how best to "spread the box and keep the trim to ensure the doors close? The installers themselves "merged", do not ask why, because. reasoning on this topic does not solve the main question. I can find them, it's not difficult, but convincing me with a soldering iron or a court to finish the job is not my style. I enclose the photo, General theory: false walls from the profile finished with drywall. Frame opening: profile, inside the profile with a gap plywood 10 (or 12 mm) around the entire perimeter of the opening, excluding the floor. Box with veneer finish, gap from plywood about 20 mm. The gap between the plywood and the box is foamed. The door does not actually close all the way. Above, in the castle area, at the bottom of the door. It does not scratch the floor, the gap is “normal”. I will do the work myself, just no idea what to do? Pull out the foam and press the box to the plywood or something else with self-tapping screws. There are 4 of these doors. Thank you.

It is difficult to imagine any dwelling, no matter how many rooms it has, without interior doors. First of all, this enclosing structure is necessary for bathrooms and toilet rooms. Therefore, it is important that interior doors work properly for a long time. To this end, at the final stage of installing the door, it is adjusted.

Interior door adjustment

In addition, old doors often need to be adjusted. It is with this process that we will try to understand in our article. But let's start with a general description of the structural elements of the interior door.

Do-it-yourself interior door adjustment

Often, homeowners, who are not deprived by nature of the ability for manual labor, decide to independently install and adjust the doors of the rooms of their house. In principle, such work can be done by hand. But for beginners, it is important to know what the interior door consists of.

Interior door design

The main structural element of any door is the canvas, it is on it that they first of all pay attention when buying a door. Another name for a canvas is a sash.

Installation of the door and its operation is impossible without a box, which is installed in the doorway, and the leaf itself is attached to it. The box is an original structural element of each specific door, matching it in color. This means that the installation of a new sash in an old frame is not possible.
Often the box comes with the finished canvas. It consists of three or four elements. If the door is planned without a threshold, then the box has a U-shape, it includes 2 long vertical beams (hinged and feigned) and one short horizontal one (lintel). If necessary, the design of the box includes a threshold, in which case it will look like a closed loop.

The platband performs a decorative function. It is he who closes the seam at the place of installation of the door frame in the wall opening.

If the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, then an additional plank is required. It is also a decorative element, the color of which matches the canvas.

An important detail of the doors is the fittings, which include two hinges on which the canvas is attached to the box, a latch and a set of handles. For doors installed, for example, in a bathroom or toilet, a locking device is also provided, which allows you to close the door from the inside.

These are the main structural elements of interior doors.

So, the process of installing an interior door is coming to an end. The box is installed in the opening, and the sash is suspended from it. At this stage, before foaming the gap between the opening in the wall and the frame bars, it is necessary to adjust the door. First, an initial inspection is carried out for the opening and closing of the door, the uniformity of the distance between the sash and the box. There may be several reasons why the gap size is not the same.

1. Perhaps the lintels were not evenly connected to the hinged or feigned timber. Then you will need to remove the box and correct the junction of the bars.
2. It happens that the purchased door has an uneven geometry. The way out of this situation is to fit the box to the features of the door. Another solution is to repair the door itself with a planer, file or sandpaper, and then paint the corrected area.

Box vertical control

The gap can be so uneven that the door hits the jamb from above or below.

If during the inspection no violations were detected, then they proceed to a more thorough check, during which several major malfunctions can be detected. Consider each of them, the causes and ways to eliminate them separately.

This is the most common problem. There are several reasons that prevent the normal closing of the interior door.

This is mainly due to the distortion of the door frame, which is associated with its incorrect installation, during which the bars were not fastened together sufficiently or the correct proportions were not observed when connecting the horizontal and vertical bars.

You can identify the presence of a skewed box using a level or plumb line. If the case is really in the box, then it will need to be removed. It is necessary to check whether the cut of the joints of the beams is even, connect them to each other again, strictly observing the angle of 90 degrees. Fix all joints with at least two screws. As a result, you should get an even letter P with firmly connected corners.

Another reason is incorrectly installed hinges. They may either not be sufficiently recessed in comparison with the surface of the box or canvas.

Another reason is incorrectly installed hinges.

In some cases, you can deepen the loop by tightening the screws in it, but this does not always work. If it doesn’t help, then you will have to unscrew the hinges and deepen the attachment point with a chisel or grinding.

Deepening hinge grooves by grinding

The hinges can also be incorrectly installed in the horizontal plane: they are deeply removed from the front of the canvas. Then they will need to be removed and moved closer to the facade of the sash.

This means that the door closes without problems, but it is not easy to open it. This problem has two main causes.

Firstly, the fasteners of the box bars are not tightened enough. Everything is simple here: you need to tighten the screws that secure the feigned timber in the opening.

Secondly, excessively deep grooves can be prepared for the hinges. To cope with this problem, it is necessary to remove the door, remove the hinges and put cardboard under their doors.

This happens when the door frame is not installed strictly vertically. If its top is littered to the side where the sash swings open, then the door opens. When the top of the box is reversed, the door closes. You can fix this by leveling the box, especially the hinged timber. You can use a plumb line as a guide, but a long level is preferable. You can also use a short level, for this you should bind it, for example, to a rule. After leveling the box, secure it to the opening.

In addition to problems with the frame, hinges or door leaf, inaccuracies in the installation of locking mechanisms can be identified.

Interior door handles

A common problem that occurs when installing a door lock is not deep enough. As a result, the side plate of the lock or the door handle touches the door jamb. The way out of this situation is to deepen the hole for the latch or lock mechanism.

Sometimes the lock screws or latches are not screwed in enough, so the mechanism hangs in the groove. The solution is simple - tighten the fasteners.

Even though adjustment is the final step in installing a door, it often needs to be done on older doors as well.

One of the main and common problems of non-new interior door structures is the squeak of the hinges. Sometimes this is observed with new doors. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to lubricate the hinges with machine oil. In order to put a wedge under the door, the door is lifted to partially remove it from the hinges. Oil is dripped into the gap that appears in the loop with a pipette, which can be replaced with a piece of graphite lead of a simple pencil.

Another common problem with old doors is skew. He has several reasons.

For wooden doors, skew may be due to swelling of the leaf. In this case, it is necessary to determine the place of protrusion. To do this, paper is applied to the alleged distorted area and the door is closed. The place where the trace of the carbon paper will remain is the segment of the bulging of the canvas. It is he who needs to be cut off, and the door itself must be painted over, as was described in the case of a new door with broken geometry.

For heavy doors, for example, made of solid wood, skew may be due to deformation of the hinges. This is usually caused by the loops being chosen incorrectly.

Note! Heavy wooden doors should be installed not on two, but on three hinges.

There are several ways to fix skewed loops:

• replace with new stronger ones;
• install additional loops;
• unscrew the screws from the hinges and replace them with longer ones;
• strengthen the sockets for the screws with a cork smeared with glue;
• install washers in the hinges, due to which the door will rise a couple of millimeters in the center of the hinge.

The skew of the door leaf can also be caused by a change in the geometry of the opening in the wall. Without replacing the door elements, this defect can be eliminated as follows:

• sharpen the door in the place of skew;
• remove and rearrange the door frame, adjusting the junction of the bars in compliance with an angle of 90 degrees.

In the latter case, you need to focus on the building level, and firmly fix the box to the doorway. To do this, two holes are made through the box in the wall on the side of each beam. The depth of the holes in the wall must be at least 50 mm. Pins made of metal or wood are driven into the holes. Wooden fasteners are pre-lubricated with glue.

Swelling of doors in the summer, when humidity rises significantly, is a natural process. And based on this, when installing in winter, when due to the operation of heating radiators, the air is much drier, a gap of about 4 mm is left between the door and the frame around the entire perimeter.
In your case, the gap turned out to be too small, there are several options for fixing it, depending on what you have with the door or frame and what experience you have with wood.

1. We need to see if the box has been opened? This happens quite often. To do this, it is necessary to measure its width at different heights, and especially in the place where the grazing occurs.

If you drove the box, then it's a little easier.
We determine with the help of a flat metal corner or level where the place of protrusion is located. This can also be seen on the door, but here you can not see from which side it happens, from the side of the hinges or the handle.
The best measurement result will, of course, be given by a metal level, but it is unlikely that you have such a measuring device lying around on the farm; instead, pick up some kind of even bar or rail.
The place of protrusion will be felt immediately. There will be a bump on which your block or level will roll.

Carefully remove the trim from the side of the box where the bulge occurred, from the outside and inside.
Then we take a hacksaw, preferably with not too coarse teeth and parallel to the box to the full height, or only at the point of protrusion, we cut through the foam. On both sides of the doorway. This cut is best done right on the box. Do not forget about the fixing dowels, they must be bypassed, but also give a gap between the foam and the box. After that, tighten the door frame fasteners with a screwdriver, and so tighten for several days until the tree takes the desired bend and selects a new gap above the foam. In other words, gradually press the box to the opening. The result will start to appear immediately.

2.1. Another case is if the box is even, but the door is swollen. Is there a question? What is your door. If this is a simple wooden paneled door, covered with tinting and varnish, then the problem is solved somewhat easier.
The easiest option. Remove the lock and grind the end of the door with sandpaper on a bar. Be sure to attach sandpaper to a bar, plank, in order to grind off an even layer. Periodically check the door for rubbing. As soon as it stops touching, stop grinding, the door will no longer swell, and you don’t need an extra gap.
Now let's try to put a lock. It may already act a little, because we removed some kind of layer. Check if the lock does not touch the box, then it can be set freely, if it still touches, then you need to take a chisel and carefully deepen its seat. For handles, as a rule, installation gaps are sufficient, but these holes in the door can also be corrected.
And now we select the tinting composition and cover the treated end of the door with it, then we go through the varnish.

2.2If you have expensive doors and such tinting or stain cannot be found, although you can pick it up. We grind the door from the side of the hinges. To do this, we remove it, and then we also deepen the places under the hinges, tint and varnish.
In any case, this option gives a gap and, most importantly, the results of working with the door are practically invisible. Even if you make any mistakes, they will not spoil the door, because this side of the door sits on hinges and is almost invisible.

Good luck and let me know how you get on.

Interior doors and frames for them are not made of titanium and are afraid not only of mechanical influences, but also of humidity, due to which they are deformed. Today we will tell you what to do if the interior door touches the box, that is, the latter has been deformed.

Causes of deformation

The box can be deformed for a number of reasons, here are the most common of them:

1. - Exposure to moisture
2. - Incorrect fastening of fittings,
3. - Incorrect fixation of the box in the opening.

For exposure to moisture, the door does not need to be watered, often ordinary dampness is enough in the bathroom, but if the neighbors flooded, then every third box can “lead” even with an ideal installation. This happens due to the characteristics of wood, which changes shape not only due to temperature changes, but also due to changes in humidity.

Improper fastening of fittings can weaken its fixation, and the door will cling to the box, damaging the extreme edge of the canvas. Also, the box can “go” due to savings or improper fixing of anchors during installation, and also due to a violation of the technology for using mounting foam.

Moisture exposure

The reason for the deformation of the box can be not only dampness or a flood, but also the wall decoration near the doorway after the installation of the structure. Putty and plaster are water-based, and the water evaporates into the wood and causes it to swell. Moreover, gypsum mixtures can expand after drying, which also causes the wood to swell.

If, after installing the door, you decide to putty the walls near the box and it is deformed, then:

1. - Set the place of deformation,
2. - Remove the casing
3. - Open the seam between the box and the wall.

To determine the place of deformation, take a strip of paper and pass it along the gap between the covered door and the box (photo 1). This is necessary in order not to embroider the door along the entire height.

Now mark the place of deformation with a pencil, remove the trim and use a spatula or a sharp knife to remove the putty / plaster from the side of the wall (photo 2). It will remain overnight to close the door with a paper gasket in the gap between the door and the box and in 90% of cases the problem will be resolved.

Box fixing defect

If there is no exposure to moisture, but the frame of the box “walks”, then the second most likely reason for this is the incorrect fastening of the door structure in the opening. According to the technology, there should be two anchors on each side of the door, but if there is no way to fix them (a thin partition on one side, for example), then the box on one side is fixed with pistol (!) Mounting foam. This foam does not expand and acts like glue while filling voids.

If you need to additionally press the door frame so that the door does not touch it, then the trim is removed, the frame is embroidered in height, as if deformed from moisture, after which the sides are pulled up either with anchor bolts or placed on pistol foam and squeezed out with spacers or an insert in the door slot of paper .

If the hinges are not fixed correctly, then the door is removed from them, the holes for the screws are clogged with wooden plugs, the depth of cutting the outer layer under the fittings is checked and the hinges are put anew. This type of marriage is rare, much more often the door touches the box due to moisture or poor fixation of the frame in the opening.

Swelling of doors in the summer, when humidity rises significantly, is a natural process. And based on this, when installing in winter, when due to the operation of heating radiators, the air is much drier, a gap of about 4 mm is left between the door and the frame around the entire perimeter.
In your case, the gap turned out to be too small, there are several options for fixing it, depending on what you have with the door or frame and what experience you have with wood.

1. We need to see if the box has been opened? This happens quite often. To do this, it is necessary to measure its width at different heights, and especially in the place where the grazing occurs.

If you drove the box, then it's a little easier.
We determine with the help of a flat metal corner or level where the place of protrusion is located. This can also be seen on the door, but here you can not see from which side it happens, from the side of the hinges or the handle.
The best measurement result will, of course, be given by a metal level, but it is unlikely that you have such a measuring device lying around on the farm; instead, pick up some kind of even bar or rail.
The place of protrusion will be felt immediately. There will be a bump on which your block or level will roll.

Carefully remove the trim from the side of the box where the bulge occurred, from the outside and inside.
Then we take a hacksaw, preferably with not too coarse teeth and parallel to the box to the full height, or only at the point of protrusion, we cut through the foam. On both sides of the doorway. This cut is best done right on the box. Do not forget about the fixing dowels, they must be bypassed, but also give a gap between the foam and the box. After that, tighten the door frame fasteners with a screwdriver, and so tighten for several days until the tree takes the desired bend and selects a new gap above the foam. In other words, gradually press the box to the opening. The result will start to appear immediately.

2.1. Another case is if the box is even, but the door is swollen. Is there a question? What is your door. If this is a simple wooden paneled door, covered with tinting and varnish, then the problem is solved somewhat easier.
The easiest option. Remove the lock and grind the end of the door with sandpaper on a bar. Be sure to attach sandpaper to a bar, plank, in order to grind off an even layer. Periodically check the door for rubbing. As soon as it stops touching, stop grinding, the door will no longer swell, and you don’t need an extra gap.
Now let's try to put a lock. It may already act a little, because we removed some kind of layer. Check if the lock does not touch the box, then it can be set freely, if it still touches, then you need to take a chisel and carefully deepen its seat. For handles, as a rule, installation gaps are sufficient, but these holes in the door can also be corrected.
And now we select the tinting composition and cover the treated end of the door with it, then we go through the varnish.

2.2 If your doors are expensive and you cannot find such a tint or stain, although you can pick it up. We grind the door from the side of the hinges. To do this, we remove it, and then we also deepen the places under the hinges, tint and varnish.
In any case, this option gives a gap and, most importantly, the results of working with the door are practically invisible. Even if you make any mistakes, they will not spoil the door, because this side of the door sits on hinges and is almost invisible.