How can you treat the foundation from moisture. What is the best way to paint a concrete foundation

The foundation serves as the basis for the house, and the life of the entire building will depend on its integrity.

The concrete foundation is constantly exposed to the harmful effects of precipitation, sunlight, cold. This leads to chipping and shedding of the outer layer of cement, reducing the strength of the foundation. It is easiest to protect it with the help of special compounds.

The dye for concrete has good vapor permeability, does not let moisture inside. These requirements are met by water-dispersion and organic dyes.

Coverings for the foundation are decorative, protective, mixed. The type of paint is chosen for specific operating conditions.

In a warm, dry climate, protection is not needed for areas of the far north, and this is a saving in materials. Popular compositions are:

Acrylic paints. Compositions based on acrylic resins and polymers, water-soluble. After drying, they form a protective film on the outside of the foundation, which protects well from precipitation and allows the wall to breathe.

Acrylic advantages:

• Easy to apply, dries quickly, one layer is enough for concrete;
• Good hiding power, low consumption;
• After drying, it is resistant to moisture and chemicals;
• Well tinted;
• Odorless, safe;
• Low price.

This type of dye is the most common.

latex paints. Water-based compositions with the addition of latex. It forms a strong and elastic film on the surface, which tolerates external influences than acrylic.

Advantages:

• Water-repellent properties, high mechanical strength of the coating;
• The composition seals microcracks well, does not burst with temperature changes;
• Low consumption per 1 square meter;
• Apply directly on wet concrete, but not above 50% humidity.
• Two-component epoxy compounds.

This type of coating is one of the most durable, the service life reaches 20-25 years. It is based on formaldehyde resin and a special hardener. Paints of this type are used for unprepared coatings and already plastered foundations.

It is recommended to put it on fresh concrete, and the drying time is at least a day. Consumption is high - 3-5 kg ​​per square meter. When working with it, it is imperative to use protective equipment.

Polyurethane enamels. It is mixed from two components and after hardening forms a durable glossy surface in the form of a polymer film with the following properties:

• They penetrate deep into 3-5 mm, the thickness of the outer film is about 200 microns;
• Crystallizes in the pores, which prevents its further exfoliation;
• Strengthens the surface of concrete even of weak grades (M100, M200);
• Heat-resistant, perfectly tolerate negative temperatures;
• Fireproof.

The use of this coating is considered optimal, but the high price and darkening after a few years do not always allow its use in facades on the street. The term of complete drying is 1-2 weeks.

Alkyd paints. All of them contain alkyd resins from mineral and vegetable oils. Paints of this type dry quickly, are easy to apply, but are fire hazardous and will require 2-3 coats of application on concrete. The most popular brand is PF.

Advantages of alkyd compounds:

• Penetrates deeper into concrete pores than water-based paints;
• Resistant to chemical detergents and UV rays;
• Inexpensive, available in stores;
• Economical, dries quickly.

Oil, based on drying oil, can also be used to paint the foundation and basement. Its disadvantage is darkening over time and low mechanical strength. In order for the oil paint to last as long as possible, it is applied to dry and clean concrete.

Which is better to choose

The foundation is divided into an underground part and a basement. Each of them has its own coverage. For a deep foundation, a bitumen-based primer or analogues are used. The main thing is to ensure and completely eliminate the contact of concrete with the ground.

The outer protruding part has a decorative function, so it is carefully aligned and painted. The stone and brickwork finish looks interesting. Such a coating is painted with simple acrylic or latex paints.

Otherwise, it is preferable to use two-component formulations. The foundation from the basement side can simply be whitewashed by adding copper sulfate or another antifungal agent to the solution.

Instruments

Painting the base begins with the selection of tools and materials.

For work we need:

• Brushes of different widths and rollers with a ditch, it is better to choose a pile material of the roller - it wears out less on a concrete surface;
• Hard brush and hose with water;
• Shovel;
• Gloves, protective equipment.

To prepare the wall for painting, cement is used to seal the cracks and a primer is applied before painting.

The use of soil reduces the absorption of concrete, reduces paint consumption. The amount is calculated based on the characteristics of the paint and its consumption.

House foundation painting

Self-painting the foundation is simple, follow the recommendations in the work:

• Pre-clean concrete from contamination with a brush and a jet of water from a hose, allow it to dry well;
• A layer of sod in front of the foundation is removed with a shovel and the blind area is leveled;
• Chips are carefully processed and puttied with liquid, let it dry for at least a day so that the next layer can be applied;
• Using a roller, we cover everything for concrete bases, it will provide adhesion to the paint and fill the pores of the concrete;
• Before use, the paint is diluted to the desired consistency with water or a solvent, lumps are removed;
• The paint is applied with a roller, having previously rolled it over a cuvette. In narrow places and in corners it is more convenient to use a brush. It is convenient to cover large areas with a spray gun.

The coating is left to dry completely and a second layer is applied.

Lay the soil back.

fence foundation

High-quality concrete does not require additional protection. For a massive fence, a tape shallow foundation or columnar foundation is used. The coating can perform a decorative function and organically fit into the design of the fence or exclusively protective. The concrete fence is painted entirely.

For reliable protection, epoxy paints and polyurethane are used. The foundation of the fence is suitable for paint based on liquid glass and silicone, for example, Alfasil.

Watch additional video:

The technology for painting a fence is no different from painting a basement in a house: the concrete is cleaned, leveled, primed, and then a layer of paint is applied. The best dyes for decorative painting of the foundation of the fence are water-based acrylic paints.

The basement protects the walls of the building from the penetration of ground moisture into them and, as a result, their destruction. But what will the base itself protect? Surely this is a well-done house basement finish , which only secondarily performs decorative functions, and in the first place - a protective role. It is this issue that we will deal with in the current article, in which, together with the site stroisovety.org, we will take a closer look at how to properly clad the basement of a building so that it is completely protected from aggressive environmental influences and also has an attractive appearance.

Finishing the basement of the house: how to do waterproofing

Oddly enough, but before proceeding to the direct finishing Houses , it is necessary to execute it waterproofing . For what? The answer is still the same - protection from moisture, which can seep not only through the ground, but also through the seams of the facing material. In general, the waterproofing of the basement should be carried out at the stage of construction, but, as a rule, everything is limited to the insulation of only its underground part, which is mainly performed with roofing material or bituminous mastic. In fact, these materials interfere with further finishing the basement of the house , and they seem to be ignored, or at best they are released 10–15 cm above the ground level. In principle, this is quite enough to protect the foundation from destruction, but not the basement of the building.

Finishing the basement of the house do-it-yourself stone photo

With house basement waterproofing things are a little different - roofing material, bituminous mastic and similar materials will not work here. Almost all materials for house basement finishes require a different type of foundation - therefore, the requirements for waterproofing the basement of the building are slightly different.

As a rule, for house basement waterproofing cement-based mortars are used - if we talk about the well-known Ceresit trademark, then its similar products are referred to as: Ceresit CR 65 or Ceresit CR 66. There are also special waterproofing primers Ceresit CE 50 and Ceresit CE 49 mastics, made on the basis of epoxy pitches. In general, there are no problems with these materials, and you can use any materials that you like in terms of price and quality.

If we talk about the technology of waterproofing works, then no problems should arise here either. Primers and mastics are applied with a brush - they are simply rubbed into the surface previously cleaned of dust and dirt. But cement mortars (like CR 65) are applied with a spatula - such protection is applied to the basement of the building in two layers, each of which must dry completely. Moreover, each of the applied layers of waterproofing must be applied in different directions - if the first layer was applied from top to bottom, then the second must be laid from left to right. Unfortunately, this is the nature of this material.

In general, direct house basement finish stone, tile or any other material can be carried out only after the waterproofing has completely dried. In this regard, primers and mastics are more practical - not only are they applied in one layer, they also dry faster. The plinth covered with a waterproofing primer or mastic can be finished with decorative material the very next day - in the case of cement-based waterproofing, it will not be possible to continue work before a couple of days.

How to waterproof the basement at home photo

How to decorate the basement at home: materials for finishing the protruding part of the foundation

Materials with which modern builders can perform finishing the basement of the house , quite a lot - these include natural and artificial stone, siding, special facade panels, tiles, clinker bricks, bassoons and even ordinary or decorative plaster. In principle, this list can be continued and continued, but there is little point in this - all the same, the finishing of the basement with these materials is almost identical.

By technology house basement finishes all materials can be divided into two groups - which require a frame for their installation and which do not need it. All kinds of siding, fiber cement and other panels can be attributed to frame materials, for the installation of which it will be necessary to arrange a metal frame. If we talk about such materials in more detail and consider their installation technology, then one feature can be noted regarding the preliminary stage of waterproofing - here the choice of insulating materials is not limited. Suitable and bitumen, and roofing material, and similar materials.

The disadvantage of this option house basement finishes is the high cost of the materials themselves and the work associated with their installation. For example, fiber cement panels are by far one of the most expensive materials, and its main advantage is durability.

Finishing the basement of the house a photo

In financial terms, the most profitable material for the plinth is all kinds of tiles, clinker bricks and stone of artificial or natural origin. The advantage of these materials lies in a fairly simple installation technology - for example, house basement finish artificial, or even fairly easy to do on your own. The same can be said about tiles and clinker bricks - knowing the technology of working with tiled material, it will not be difficult to line the foundation with any similar products.

Materials for house basement finishes

Additional protection of the tiled plinth of the house

As they say, there is a blessing in disguise - having protected the basement of the building, it is also necessary to protect the cladding itself from the ubiquitous moisture. No matter how ridiculous it may look, but such a situation really is the place to be. The fact is that rain and melt water, flowing down the walls of the house, can flow and be absorbed into the solution or adhesive composition, with which the basement was finished with natural stone or something else.

As a rule, either the same finishing material or special cornices made of painted galvanized steel are used as such protection. If you deal with the quality of such protection, then it is better to give preference to galvanized steel - it is more reliable. If moisture can still seep into the seams between the finishing material, then, in principle, it is not able to penetrate under the cornices.

Cornice on the basement of the house photo

The cornices are fastened as follows - first, a cut is made in the wall with a depth of 1.5–2 cm to the width of the disc of the grinder, into which the bend of the cornice is inserted. After that, the cornice itself is attached to the wall with dowels, and the cut slot is sealed with sealant. If you correctly connect the individual cornices, then (or whatever you use there for these purposes) will be reliably protected from rain and melt water.

In general, be that as it may, house basement finish is a necessary construction measure, which should be carried out in combination with other means of protecting the foundation (drainage of the foundation, its waterproofing and the installation of a drainage system).

Isolation of the building from moisture is a very important part in any construction work, after which the building will be firmly, reliably and efficiently insulated from rain moisture and ice, and, of course, groundwater. Even more waterproofing is needed if you plan to build a room where water can easily get in. The better the waterproofing, the more durable the house will be. With good waterproofing, you will never see small insects, fungus and mold on the wall, especially in rooms that are below ground level.

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation is a procedure that is absolutely realistic to do without outside help, but we must not forget that this is a responsible job and should not be approached carelessly. You must have certain skills and abilities, and you also need to have information about all the nuances of the territory, and, of course, you need to follow safety precautions.

We will describe and explain six different options.

• Plinth processing
• Foundation slab processing
• Monolith processing
• Balcony treatment

General rules for construction work

Now there are various options for strengthening the foundation:

• Okleyechnaya- pasted over with rolled material, which is treated with an adhesive composition. It can be self-adhesive, heat-on, or weldable.
• Impregnation- treated with a composition that penetrates well into the soil. It fills the capillaries in the material and creates a layer of several tens of centimeters.
• Coating- treatment with a composition that has a high resistance to moisture. For example, polymers or bituminous mastic.
• mounted- it is carried out using geomembranes with spikes made of polymers, which are assembled into a washing, moisture-proof surface.

According to these technologies, it is necessary to protect not only the foundation, but also the adjacent structures:

• Ground floor
• Basement floor and walls
• Foundation in foundation

The waterproofing layer in any building must be solid and not damaged. Preferably completely flat. Sometimes another waterproofing layer is installed from the back of the structure, which takes the brunt. This is done if there is a danger of flooding with groundwater. To avoid this problem, the building is protected with a blind area. Surface water is everywhere, so this part is installed everywhere. There are no exceptions in this case.

There is another problem. It's called groundwater. They are not always located on the same level with the foundation on the plots. The question is where they are and how deep. If they are higher than the foundation, then in addition to waterproofing, drainage work must also be carried out. This procedure is necessary so that the water is as far away from the building as possible. It also lowers the groundwater level and thereby lowers the pressure on the base of the building. Without drainage, this cannot be achieved. Regardless of the above, you must also take into account the chemical composition of water. In some areas, one has to deal with harmful groundwater. This water is harmful to. Based on this, all materials must withstand aggressive environments.

Plinth processing

The outer side of the basement is certainly protected. Sometimes even to the level of the first floor. This is done because frost sometimes remains on the blind area. Based on this, in addition to all the work, the plinth needs to be lined with frost-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing materials. Do not forget! If you use high-quality products, follow the technology, don't be lazy - this will be the key to the longevity of your home!

The basement continues the foundation of the wall. The basement is the top of the foundation, it is above ground level, about 2m. But in some cases, a floor can be quite high off the ground and create another floor that is half underground and half inside.

Given that the plinth continues the foundation, more time should be devoted to insulating them. You must not allow the outside to get wet and the capillary moisture to pass down. We must not forget that moisture can rise to the second floor from various factors. Moisture evaporates from the wall, so dampness can be on two floors. Therefore, make reliable isolation!

There is another option for finishing the base - vertical insulation. The point of this isolation is that the whole system works as a whole. For this, liquid waterproofing is most often used. With the help of molten rubber, you can get a water-repellent coating from a monolith without seams. This material is very easy to apply, works great in tandem with other materials. Therefore, it can be used for both brick and concrete (monolithic or block)

Foundation slab processing

To install it, you need to dig a pit. After the measures taken, the block is laid on well-trodden sand and gravel. The thickness of this embankment is approximately 35 cm, the thickness of the block is from 25 to 45 cm. This foundation can be from a monolith or prefabricated. If you have a monolith, then the formwork is poured with concrete with a pre-installed reinforcement frame. In another case, the base is made of prefabricated reinforced concrete structures, for example, road slabs. With any installation option, you must know that the ground water must be removed without fail!

Block isolation is solved in several ways. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. Now they mainly use the coating option. This type is very light, after work you will get the best result and durable material. The biggest problem in finishing a block foundation is the insulation of the slab at the bottom, because it has a large area. In this case, the work is carried out by wrapping with a roll or coating. A few years ago, roofing material was used in construction. In this variant, bitumen was applied to a cardboard base. This method was short-lived, because the paper base quickly deteriorated. The material easily bent, also could not stand sudden changes in temperature and ultraviolet. The bitumen used earlier in its production also did not differ in strength. As a result, everything quickly cracked, and the waterproofing barrier lost its tightness. Modern materials such as rubemast and stekloizol are made using fiberglass or fiberglass. They are much stronger than their older counterparts. Now bitumen contains modified additives. Because of this, it has become elastic, flexible, and can withstand any temperature.

Monolith processing

You can achieve the desired result in different ways:

• Coating with mastic– Suitable for those who do not want to spend a lot of money. This option is very cheap. Although it only lasts for a short time. Such waterproofing during use quickly deteriorates, leaks, as it does not withstand heavy loads. But the main condition is that it can only be used if you have a completely dry and even surface. You should certainly know that the coating waterproofing is damaged even in the initial stages when construction debris remains, for example, such as stone and glass. From the side of the street, it must be insulated with rolled geotextiles or a pressure brick wall. But this option is quite expensive and takes a lot of effort.
• Spray treatment– Very easy to apply thanks to the handy sprayer. The method is good because it exactly repeats all the irregularities of the foundation. There is almost no need to pre-prepare the surface. This technology is more expensive than others. When using this technology, mandatory reinforcement with geotextile material is required, which provides additional protection.

Processing the foundation of the constituent parts

This object is most often processed together with the grillage. It is extremely difficult to waterproof the components, because it takes too much time and effort to process. The wooden foundation is impregnated and treated with a protective solution before installation. But do not forget, when you install a wooden foundation, it is not recommended to do drainage to divert water, as wooden poles that are pre-treated do not rot in water, but only gain stability. What you need!

And finally, the final stage of manufacturing the strip foundation. First you need to remove the formwork and carry out the final processing. So, you can understand that the foundation has hardened well by the appearance of cracks or small cracks between it. When the board moves away from the top of the foundation, it means that it drives away water, which is a good sign. After that, remove the formwork. First you need to remove the auxiliary parts. Then you need to pull out all the pins and bars. Then, using a hammer, tap the boundaries of the foundation. Do not forget that the foundation is not completely dry yet, it is very easy to damage it!

Balcony treatment

In a modern metropolis, almost every building has a balcony. The base, as a rule, is a reinforced concrete block, which is exposed to an aggressive environment. And of course, someday it will lead to destruction. And no one needs such consequences as dampness and the appearance of mold. Over time, all problems from the balcony smoothly "swim" into the apartment. This happens when water seeps through the capillaries of the concrete slab.

The main problem is that the temperature outside is freezing in winter. When water freezes on the balcony under a lot of moisture, it expands and bursts, destroying the slab on the balcony with its actions. Judging by the construction standards, the surface of the balcony should have a bevel of 2-3 degrees. But in reality, builders often do not comply with this. Moreover, there are cases when there is a reverse bias. Because of this, rainwater that enters the balcony does not drain from it, but lingers and sometimes even flows towards the apartment, thereby destroying the concrete surface. Thanks to this, the stove is not enough even for several seasons! The open balcony cannot be fenced off from low temperatures. But if you can not fence off, then you can prevent! Namely, it is necessary to prevent the ingress of water into the concrete.

The best solution to this problem is waterproofing using bitumen. Before you start correcting this error, you need to determine the slope of the block and, if necessary, cover it with a cement screed in order to get a slope of 2-3 degrees. Pay more attention to cracks and joints that have already appeared (which are in contact with the wall with a parapet, metal bars). If they are not removed, the chips will only get bigger! These places must be carefully glued with fiberglass.

Waterproofing works on the balcony in the most extreme conditions compared to other uses of this material. But the waterproofing of the loggia is done only if it is completely glazed. This procedure is carried out with waterproofing of the vertical partition (made of brick or concrete). Of course, the work must be carried out with high quality, or you will not get the desired result. In order to have a good result, you need to install not only a double-glazed window, but also seal the seam and the outer cornice very well. But first, you need to prepare the surface.

To do this, you need to dismantle the coating, remove dirty areas with a perforator. After that, the concrete must be cleaned with a stiff brush from construction debris. If the reinforcement sticks out, rust must be removed from it, and then a protective compound should be applied. After these procedures, the concrete block is restored with the help of special compounds for quick repairs. Therefore, we advise you to choose the highest quality materials and spare no effort otherwise your efforts will not be justified. And remember, the miser pays twice!!!

So we've come to the end. We wish you a quick construction, and not a hundred-year-old "epopee", so that everything works out for you the first time and high-quality waterproofing for you!

How to paint the foundation of the house and how to get the job done

Paint for the foundation of the house is taken only for external surfaces. There are a lot of dyes and each of them has its own positive and negative qualities.

Today we will consider how to paint the foundation and analyze the sequence of work. You will also learn the characteristics of the most used materials and be able to make the right choice.

Why paint: stages of work

The protection of the basement from various influences (atmospheric, mechanical or chemical) should be treated by home owners with more attention than the protection of building facades.

Attention: The plinth needs additional protection with special impregnations, paints and primers that are resistant to aggressive influences.

• This is of such great importance because if the basement finish is damaged, the foundation of the house (together with the basement itself and the walls) will lose its protection against saline solutions and water - intensive destruction will begin. And from these consequences it is necessary to insure your home in advance. The protection of the plinth is ensured by its correct painting.
• The abundance of offers on the market of specialized building materials can confuse a person when choosing a protective paint for his home. Paints differ in the basis on which they are produced. And the choice must be made according to the material of the base itself.
• It is also worth sharing the location of the premises. If it is near the road, then moisture will aggressively affect it here.
• If the building is in a lowland, then the basement will be in the snow for a long time and at the same time there will be large temperature differences.

It is for these reasons that it is necessary to make the right choice and protect the premises from bad weather and destruction. In addition, it is through this part that most of the moisture that is still being collected from the soil penetrates. Before buying, the instructions for the dye, which is on the package, should be read, the coating must be moisture resistant.

All work is done in the following order and it is quite possible to do it yourself:

Choosing a dye

Painting the foundation of a house is not a difficult task, but it is quite responsible. And how to paint the foundation of the house must be decided immediately. Dyes have their own characteristics, they are different. So let's just go through them right away and make our choice.

acrylic paint

Produced on a water basis and contains acrylic dyes. These paints contain acrylic resins. Also in the paint there are copolymers.

Due to this content, the paint is widely used for coloring concrete. It contributes to the formation of a polymer layer on the concrete surface. This layer also serves as protection against all external influences.

Advantages:

• Ease of application
• Drying speed
• Can be applied in one layer
• Consumption within 0.35-0.4 kg/m2 (economy)

latex paint

Latex paint belongs to the type of water-based coloring materials. It consists of water, polymers and pigment. Manufacturers note the possibility of the presence of acrylic or silicone resins in the composition of the paint.

The consistency of latex paint can be changed with various solvents. Such paint can be used for painting fresh concrete (but its moisture content should be 50%).

Advantages:

• Resistant to temperature extremes (frost resistance);
• Moisture resistant (prevent the penetration of moisture);
• Fills microcracks during painting
• Perfectly cleaned and not damaged;
• Drying speed (up to 4 hours);
• Consumption within 1 liter per 8-9 m2.

Epoxy paint

Epoxy paints can protect the foundation of a house from external influences for up to 25 years. It is based on epoxy resins. This is one of the strongest and most durable coatings for painting the facade.

• The composition of this paint is two-component (they are mixed before use): epoxy resin and hardener. Due to this, epoxy enamel provides a strong adhesion to the treated surface.
• It can be used to paint fresh concrete and its characteristics will be improved. The application of this composition should be done in two layers, taking into account the fact that each layer will dry for about 24 hours.

Advantages:

• Vapor permeability;
• UV resistant;
• Resistance to acid-base solutions.

Polyurethane paints

Polyurethane enamel incorporates a set of polymers that provide first-class protection for the treated surface.

• The question of how to paint a concrete foundation is eliminated with this dye. The concrete foundation, painted with polyurethane paint, will be reliably protected from chemical attack.
• This paint is also two-component (both components are mixed before painting). Application is recommended in two layers, each layer dries out within 24 hours.
• Mechanical strength comes after a week from the moment of completion of work with paint. Chemical resistance will come in two weeks.

Advantages:

• Improving the properties of concrete (strengthening, preventing damage and excessive dusting);
• Resistance to temperature extremes;
• Blockage of microcracks and micropores (formation of crystals, the presence of which excludes detachment);
• Formation of a protective polymer film with the possibility of penetrating deep into the surface.

Alkyd paints

The basis of the composition of alkyd enamels for coloring is alkyd resin. For the production of alkyd dyes, these resins are obtained during the processing of vegetable oil.

The desiccants added to the composition help the paint dry very quickly. Alkyd paints are distinguished by a wide color palette.

Advantages:

• High drying speed;
• UV resistant;
• Resistant to chemical cleaners;
• Resistance to low temperatures;
• Deep penetration into the treated surface;
• Economic consumption (approximately 180 grams per square meter).

Attention: Paints of this type require application in several layers. When used indoors, it is a fire hazard.

Oil paints

Known paints based on drying oil extracted from vegetable oils and enriched with pigment fillers. Due to its properties, it forms a high-strength paint film on concrete. This coating is distinguished by excellent density.

It is possible to apply oil paint on concrete only after it has completely cured. The oil paint itself dries out about a day after application.

Advantages:

• Value for money - quality (at a low cost, the paint has good protective qualities);
• Economic consumption (approximately 250 grams per square meter).

For any building, a good paintwork should be:

• aesthetic;
• High-quality (reliability and durability are the main criteria for the quality of paints of all types);
• Technically compatible with the site of application.

In addition to general characteristics, the paint must be selected based on the type of buildings that need to be processed. The efficiency of processing and the achievement of the ultimate goal - the protection of the foundation from aggressive environmental influences - depend on this.

Paint the basement of a house in the city

If the basement of a city house requires protection by staining, then you should choose a material that has serious resistance to aggressive agents.

• Such as oil products, will, waste water. Their influence on the foundation of city houses is especially dangerous. Therefore, solvent-based paints should be preferred and only a breathable acrylic primer should be used before applying them.
• With this treatment, excess moisture from the base will evaporate, but the flow of moisture from the outside will be stopped.

Paint the basement of a village house

A country house has its advantages over city buildings. First of all, the environmental friendliness of the location dictates the features of its content.

• The foundation of a house in a village or in a forest is not subjected to such destructive influences as in a city.
• Ecological cleanliness helps to keep the house much longer. Therefore, to protect the basement of such a house, you can choose water-dispersion paints. The primer should be preferred silicone or acrylic.
• As for universal means, quartz soils are called the most effective. They are widely used due to affordability and optimal performance for all types of buildings.

In what color to paint the foundation of the house you will already select according to the desired design. There is only one recommendation here, the base should not be made in the same color as the camps. It should be whitened at least a shade. After watching the video in this article, you can get additional information that will be useful to you.

How to protect concrete from moisture? In this article, we will analyze several popular solutions that are applicable both for waterproofing foundations and basements, and for protecting capital walls from precipitation and seasonal fluctuations in humidity.

Our goal is to give concrete hydrophobic properties.

Classification

All waterproofing materials are divided into three main categories.

Useful: roll and coating materials are usually applied from that side of the foundation or building envelope, with which there is excess static water pressure. Otherwise, there is always a risk of delamination of the protective layer, violation of its integrity. Penetrating waterproofing is devoid of this limitation.

Obviously, we are most interested in the last category of waterproofing. It is with her that we will get to know each other better.

Possible Solutions

Ironing

The simplest and most cheap surface treatment (applying cement laitance on it). Cement penetrates into pores and microcracks, completely or partially blocking them. Of course, such waterproofing is not enough for the foundation; but the ironing of the cement plaster of the facade will significantly reduce the absorption of water.

Liquid glass

If you add sodium liquid glass (aqueous solution of Na2O (SiO2)) to the cement-sand mortar in a ratio of approximately 1:10, you will get moisture-resistant concrete with a very short (no more than half an hour) setting period. This recipe is often used to seal sewer and water wells, block foundations and cracks in basement floors.

In the photo - domestically produced sodium liquid glass.

Processing with liquid glass is quite capable of reliably waterproofing the surface of a finished reinforced concrete product. It is more than easy to do this work with your own hands: the material diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 is applied to concrete with a brush, roller or sprayer.

Hint: undiluted liquid glass, applied in one layer, penetrates concrete by an average of 2 millimeters. If the treatment is carried out with an aqueous solution and in several steps, the impregnation depth will increase to 15-20 mm.

Water repellents

How to treat aerated concrete from moisture if it is used to build the external walls of a residential building?

In this case, silicone-based water-repellent primers will come to the rescue. Instructions for their use are also extremely simple: ready-to-use or diluted with water in the concentration indicated by the manufacturer, the composition is applied to the surface of the facade in two or three layers without prior drying.

Protection of aerated concrete from moisture with the help of a hydrophobizing solution solves several problems at once.

To clarify: silicone-based water repellents are intended not only for aerated concrete. They can process all porous materials: heavy concrete, limestone, plaster, etc.

The composition is applied to a dry base. A moisture meter for concrete will help to assess the moisture level of the structure - a simple electrical device that measures the resistivity of a surface area.

The average price of Russian-made water repellents is 150 rubles per kilogram. The only drawback of the solution is the limited adhesive qualities of the facade after processing: it can be painted only after six months.

Crystallizing compounds

Penetron, Crystallisol and their numerous analogues differ from the solutions listed above by the principle of operation: in simple terms, they do not transport material to fill pores through capillaries from the surface, but create it in place ().

Chemical additives cause accelerated crystallization of calcium salts (the main component of Portland cements) upon contact with water. Crystals reliably fill concrete pores.

What is the result?

• The most obvious result is the impossibility of moisture penetration into the thickness of concrete during external processing of the structure. If the basement walls are treated with the same Penetron from the inside, groundwater will no longer find its way into the room: the impregnation penetrates the concrete by 40-60 centimeters.
• About efflorescence and mold, of course, you can also forget. Moisture is necessary for their appearance.
• Frost resistance of concrete increases by an average of 100 cycles. On the practical side, this means an increase in the service life of the main walls by 150-200 years.
• Finally, impregnation for concrete from moisture increases its compressive strength: the absence of pores prevents the material from crumbling under load.

Curiously, Penetron and its analogues provide a kind of self-healing waterproofing. Where water begins to penetrate into concrete through new cracks and pores, the growth of calcium salt crystals immediately resumes. What is especially pleasing is that waterproofing measures can be carried out with damp walls or foundations.

Where do new cracks in concrete structures come from? The main reasons are movements and frost heaving of soils, as well as installation work. When perforating technological holes and openings, shock vibration is destructive for concrete.

What to do?

1. In the first case, the problem is solved by reinforced reinforcement of structures. The foundation, connected by reinforcement into a single rigid frame, will not be deformed by any movement of the soil.
2. In the second - the use of less destructive methods of conducting work. So, cutting reinforced concrete with diamond wheels, and rebar - with a gas cutter or an ordinary abrasive wheel - is much less destructive than using a jackhammer. Diamond drilling holes in concrete is much more preferable than working with a hammer drill.

Conclusion

As part of a short review, we have listed only a small part of the possible solutions. As usual, the video in this article will offer the reader additional information ().