How to plan trees and beds in the country. Regular or landscaping? Proper site planning - video

Once you have a plot and plan your future garden, think about its purpose and your own inclinations. Do you like to dig in the garden, work on the ground, or do you prefer walks around the neighborhood, barbecue, active games on the fresh air. After all, it is on this that the principle of planning the site depends, dividing it into special zones and their ratio in size. The garden should be a comfortable and pleasant place for rest and work of the whole family. And here you have to follow certain rules.

Garden layout

After the site for the garden is selected, it is necessary to correctly orient it to the cardinal points and zone it. This is important to do to create optimal conditions for the growth and fruiting of trees and shrubs. With proper arrangement of plants on the site, you can provide them with sunlight or shade, protect them from wind, drying out of the soil. In addition, the well-thought-out arrangement of plants relative to the entrance to the garden, outbuildings adjacent to its territory, and the source of water supply facilitate the work of the gardener.

The layout of the garden can be regular (geometric) or landscape. The regular layout is distinguished by symmetry and the arrangement of plants along geometric lines. All trees and shrubs should be placed at a certain distance from each other according to the scheme in the form of a square, rectangle, rhombus. Paths are laid between them. A staggered landing pattern is often used.

Square, rectangular and checkerboard planting patterns are suitable for regular shaped areas. Aisles in such a garden can be compacted - planted with other plants that do not require much light. If the site is narrow and long, then it is better to arrange trees and shrubs in a rectangular pattern. It is ideal for the garden large area. With dense planting, trees are arranged in rows every 8 m. A distance of 5-6 m is left between trees. Trees with a smaller crown (plum, cherry) can be planted between trees with a large crown. Berry bushes (gooseberries, currants) are located in the aisles. The distance from one bush to another is 1.25-1.5 m. Compaction of plantations with a rectangular arrangement of fruit trees is justified. big trees(apple trees, pears) grow slowly in the first years and occupy the space allotted for them gradually. Less overall and durable will have time to give more than one crop during this time. Aging in plums and cherries is noted by the 20-25th year, and in berry bushes - from the 14th-16th year of life. When apple and pear trees grow, plum and cherry already cease to bear fruit in full force and they are uprooted. The placement of fruit trees in a square pattern is most often used on flat areas. The distance between the trees with this approach is the same on all sides. The chess layout of fruit trees is most often used in summer cottages. Trees are placed at the corners of the triangle at an equal distance from each other (Fig. 1). This approach allows you to plant 14% more fruit trees than with conventional planting. The chess planting pattern is suitable for a garden on terraces.

Rice. 1. Chess tree planting scheme: 1 - tall trees: 2 - medium and low trees

It is important to properly position in the garden fruit trees and shrubs by height (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Types of trees by height: 1 - dwarf; 2 - medium height; 3 - tall

Distance between seedlings

If it is planned to grow apple trees in the garden on tall rootstocks, then a distance of 6-8 m is left between the rows, and 4-6 m between the trees in them. Apple trees on semi-dwarf rootstocks occupy less space. Their rows are made with a distance of 5-7 m, and 3-4 m are left between plants. Rows for apple trees on dwarf rootstocks are placed at a distance of 4-5 m from each other. They stand 1.5-2 m between trees. Rows with pears on vigorous rootstocks are made with an interval of 6-8 m. The distance between trees in a row is 4-5 m.

Cherries and plums are planted in rows with an interval of 4 m, 3 m are left between the trees. The same trees of small-sized varieties are placed every 2 m in rows with an interval of 4-5 m. Chokeberries, currants, gooseberries are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, the rows are made 2-2.5 m wide.

Gooseberry bushes can grow up to 2.5 m in diameter. When planted in rows, bushes usually do not exceed 2 m in diameter. Gooseberries can be planted between seed fruit trees, leaving a distance of 1.5-2 m from them. As soon as the crowns of the trees grow so much that they close, the gooseberries are uprooted.

gooseberry in in large numbers planted in thin rows. The bushes are placed at a distance of 1.4-1.5 m from each other, and 2-2.5 m are left between the rows. After 5-6 years, the gooseberry bushes grow and the rows become continuous.

To quickly get big harvest sometimes they plant 2 bushes in one planting hole with a distance of 20 cm. During the first 3 years, gooseberries really give bountiful harvest. AT further bushes grow strongly, oppress each other and quickly grow old. It is already difficult to plant them, as the roots will have to be severely damaged. Therefore, planting two bushes is impractical. More rational combined scheme landing. Plants are often planted - every 0.75 m in a row, and between the rows they keep a distance of only 1 m. After 3-4 years, the bushes are thinned through one and 1.5 m remains in the rows between them. The bushes uprooted in autumn are planted in a new place. After 1-2 years, gooseberries are thinned out in a similar way again. This approach to cultivation allows you to get a decent harvest every year, even from young plants in a small area. Blackberries and raspberries take up less space. Their rows are made 2 m wide, and the bushes are placed at intervals of 0.6-0.7 m.

Horticulturally effective life expectancy and planting pattern for fruit and berry crops middle lane Russia is presented in table 1.

Table 1. Terms of operation and planting scheme for fruit and berry crops

In the garden with landscape style plants are placed arbitrarily, adhering to the basic principles, to ensure that they optimal conditions for growth and fruiting. In such a garden, everything looks natural, there are more ornamental plants.

IN A LANDSCAPE GARDEN, FRUIT TREES ARE MOST OFTEN PLANT IN ROWS along parallel arcuate lines. Shrubs and flower beds are placed in such a way as to emphasize the beauty of the garden.

Windbreak plants can be planted on the north and east sides. They will protect more heat-loving fruit trees from strong winds. There you can place outbuildings or a residential building. However, they should not be tall and obscure the garden. One of the options for placing a garden, garden, house and outbuildings is shown in Figure 3.

Rice. 3. Layout of the site (N - north, south - south, unit of measurement - m): 1 - house, 2 - playground, 3 - toilet, 4 - shower, 5 - lawn, 6 - water tank, 7 - strawberries , 8 - vegetable crops, 9 - cherries, 10 - cherries, 11 - pears, 12 - medium-sized apple trees, 13 - grapes, 14 - gooseberries, 15 - currants, 16 - raspberries, 17 - apricots, 18 - sea buckthorn, 19 - plums , 20 - walnut, 21 - undersized apple trees, 22 - lilac

When planning a garden, take into account the characteristics of the fruit berry plants- the need for light or shade, thermophilicity, resistance to drought, etc. The tallest trees (apple trees, pears) are usually planted on the north side. In a southerly direction, shorter ones (plum, cherry), and then berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) are placed. Next place a garden and berry undersized plants (garden strawberries). With this approach, all plants receive enough sunlight (Fig. 4). Walnut located away from all fruit trees and shrubs. The best place for him is a place near the house.

Rice. 4. Illumination of trees and shrubs in the garden: 1 - at correct location plants in height; 2 - with incorrect arrangement of plants in height

It is rational to place grapes along the fence on the south or southeast side of the site. berry bushes can be isolated in a separate zone or planted between rows of fruit trees. On the north side, the most hardy species of fruit trees are placed. The most heat-loving trees (apricots, cherries) are planted in the center of the garden, in a place well lit and protected from the wind. You can plant them along the fence, from the side of the forest, near the wall of the house.

Trees should not create extensive shade in neighboring areas. Therefore, tall varieties are planted at a distance of 3.4-4 m from the border with an adjacent plot, medium-sized ones - at a distance of 2-2.5 m. Shorter plants are planted near the house so that they do not obscure the windows. The free space between the fence and the trees can be taken by currants, raspberries, gooseberries. They can also grow well in the shade. However, 1 m should be left from them to the fence. It is not recommended to plant any trees and shrubs at a distance of 20 cm from the border with an adjacent plot.

When planting shrubs, it must be taken into account that they grow strongly and can interfere with the growth of other plants, so young shoots must be cut down. For the same reasons, it is better to plant raspberries, sea buckthorn, and currants away from other plants, in more remote corners of the garden. Lemongrass and actinidia are recommended to be planted near the house. With this arrangement, they will be protected from the wind. Creeping apple trees are planted only in areas covered with snow in winter. Without a snow shelter, they will freeze, so you can not place them in a windy place.

Plum, on the contrary, is planted where there is no large accumulation of snow. In high snowdrifts, her bark begins to rot in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe root collar, which can lead to the death of the entire tree. Usually, an elevated place is allocated for cherries. In order for plum and cherry to be well pollinated and bear fruit, it is recommended to plant them in 2-3 copies of different varieties. Currants, sea buckthorn, and chokeberry are planted in the sunniest place.

Blackcurrant prefers moist soil (loam) and sunny, wind-sheltered places, but can also grow in light shade. With strong shading, this shrub begins to bear less fruit. The soil with pronounced acidity for growing black currant is limed.

Red and white currants grow on light soils, do not tolerate shading. They are planted only in an open area with moderate humidity. These types of currants do not tolerate lowland areas and dry soil. Loose soil of any type with moderate moisture is suitable for gooseberries. It bears fruit well even on moderately acidic soils. At high location ground water and stagnant water, the plant is affected by lichens and powdery mildew. The place for this berry bush is chosen sunny.

Strawberries need not only a site with the longest possible sunlight, but also protected from the wind in winter time. Strawberries grow well in one place for 3-4 years, after which they become smaller, often get sick and are affected by pests. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant it to another place.

The more in the garden various kinds and varieties of fruit trees and shrubs, the more likely it is to get a good harvest every year. If weather conditions are less favorable for one crop, they may be more suitable for another crop or variety. However, it is not recommended to plant nearby apple and pear trees of summer and winter varieties. It is better to select them according to close ripening groups, for example, summer and ripening in early autumn, winter and ripening late autumn. Plants should also not be placed too close to each other. In this case, in a few years they will begin to oppress each other and this will not in the best way affect fruiting. In order to plan a standard plot for a garden and a vegetable garden, we suggest using the data in Table 2.

Table 2. Norms of planting area for fruit and berry crops per family of four

A total of 400 m2 is allocated for the garden on the plot. This is quite enough for a family of 3-4 people. 4 apple trees are planted in the garden, 3-4 plums and cherries, 2-3 pears, apricots and cherries, 1-2 trees are enough. Of the shrubs, black currants are most planted - 5-7 bushes. You can plant 2 bushes of red currant, gooseberry, sea buckthorn. There is a place for 100-150 strawberry bushes. If desired, you can allocate a place for grapes, chokeberry, shadberry, dog rose. In order for fresh fruits and berries to be available for as long as possible, trees and shrubs should be planted from different groups by maturity.

IN DAMP AREAS WITH HIGH GROUND WATER, it is recommended to plant fruit trees and shrubs on bulk mounds. They are created by digging the soil, which is thrown to the middle of the selected place and mixed with manure, peat, humus.

As trees and shrubs grow, the ratio of free space and plantings, as well as light and shade on the site, will change. Low-growing crops may be shaded if this is not taken into account in advance. On relief terrain, rows of fruit plants pass from one slope to another almost parallel to each other. On a hill, they converge slightly, and at the foot of the hills they widen slightly (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Arrangement of trees in a relief area

After determining the style of the garden and drawing up a plan, the marking of the site begins. To do this, use a tape measure, cord and eker (a stake with a wooden cross to align the corners of the rows and beds). First, zones are determined for the placement of trees and shrubs along the boundaries of the site. In the designated places, pegs are driven into the ground and, if necessary, pull the cord. Then they outline the line of the longest row, measure the distances between trees or shrubs on it, and pegs are also driven in in their place. The placement of plants along the edges of the row is determined using an eker (Fig. 6). At correct markup all rows of trees and shrubs in the garden are rectangular, parallel and perpendicular to each other.

Video: site planning

With the acquisition land plot the owner has to deal with the zoning of the territory. Now there are many specialists in this field who, with the help of professional techniques, can create beauty. The layout of the garden can be done independently, if you familiarize yourself with the features of this work. After all, on the site you can plant not only trees, but also shrubs, vegetables. More information about the design of the territory is described in the article.

Training

The garden should be located in the open sun on a site with a high presence of groundwater. It should not be laid in a lowland, where cold air and water will flow during the spring flood.

After external examination area, the following activities should be planned:

1. Cleaning the territory from old stumps, wild shrubs, stones, other debris.
2. The area needs to be dug deep.
3. Needs to be watered for weeds to emerge. After germination, you need to perform deep cultivation and level the site.
4. In parallel, you need to give the soil to the laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, chemical composition. This is required for further care: use of fertilizers, irrigation, other agrotechnical procedures.
5. Based on the results of the analysis, it is necessary to enter under autumn processing necessary doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components. Without these data, fertilizer is undesirable.

What is important to consider before planning?

Before planning a garden, you need to take into account some of the nuances:

1. What area can be allocated for an orchard. Trees with spreading crowns need a distance of 4 square meters. m.
2. Terrain relief. For orchard a flat area or a gentle slope is suitable, there is cold air in the pits, a lot of moisture, these territories are unfavorable for fruit trees.
3. Analysis of soils of the territory. Fruit crops have a strong root system, fertile soils are needed to ensure good nutrition. For garden area rocky, clayey, sandy soil is not suitable. The proximity of groundwater has a negative effect on the growth of trees.
4. The presence of light and heat. fruit trees need required amount light and heat, as in the shade their growth slows down. High windy terrain will not be ideal, as it interferes with proper pollination, dries out the ground, damages crops, and breaks branches. Partial protection against it is a high fence or green spaces.

Layout features

Garden planning begins with paper diagrams. If there is a house on the territory, planning should be carried out from it. A diagram of the site, the contours of the object and other buildings, as well as places where there are trees are applied to the paper. This area is protected by trees planted around.

If the land is not built up, a site for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden suggests the presence of a front garden. Housing should face the street, in front of it is located part of the land for the front garden. Its size is determined by the area of ​​the territory.

On a small front garden, you need to plant flowers, berry bushes, on a large one - decorative and fruit trees, flowers. Large fruit plants- apple trees, pears - it is desirable to plant in the north-eastern part. Between them should be cherries and plums.

Plan

In order to have the correct layout of the garden and vegetable garden, you need to create sketches of the site. In the plan, you need to indicate the buildings, the approximate location of the remaining objects. It is necessary to mark the holes for planting bushes and trees. They should be planted at a distance so that they do not shade as they grow.

Closely spaced bushes and trees do not grow well, moreover, this leads to diseases. horticultural crops. Fruit trees have a powerful root system, it should develop freely. If there are wild bushes, stumps that should be uprooted on the territory, all work must be done and burned wood residues. The ash must be left in a dry place, it will be required to obtain fertile beds.

The layout of the garden on the site should be such that the trees do not obscure neighboring plots. To date, beds of the original form are fashionable, for example, a pizza garden. In this case, the rest are located in the center from the round beds in the center. Raspberries, blackberries, berry bushes that bear fruit and shade are planted near the boundaries of the site.

What crops to choose?

When planning an orchard, you need to decide on the types of plants. It is necessary to choose trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in the area. For the middle lane, pears, apple trees, plums, cherry plums, and cherries are selected. Cherries and apricots grow better in warm regions.

From berry bushes, you can choose currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. Planning a garden on 10 acres is much easier than with a large area. At small plot shrubs are preferably located around the perimeter. On the vegetable beds it is necessary to plant crops that grow close to each other: cabbage, cucumbers, peas.

Popular types of layout

The garden planning project will create original plot. There are currently 4 designs available:

1. Rectilinear. This option is not only beautiful, but also simple. This arrangement allows you to restore order on the site. This type of design allows you to get the effect of reducing space.
2. Circular arrangement. To get it, you need skills in landscape design. This design will allow you to create an orchard and flower beds, and it is more difficult to use it for a vegetable garden.
3. Diagonal. In this way, you can arrange a garden plot of 15 acres and above. With the help of a diagonal orientation, a visual volume is obtained. It allows you to arrange the location of different areas.
4. Creative option. There are no specific rules here. Usually it contains elements of other types. It is used for areas with a special configuration.

Each layout option is original in its own way. Before implementing the project, it is necessary to draw it on paper. If land has been acquired with some buildings and plantings that you do not want to remove, then they must be marked first.

Communications

The layout of a personal plot, garden, orchard is not complete without communications equipment. Systems facilitate the operation and maintenance of the territory, improve functionality. They will create additional conditions.

For organization garden plot drainage systems, sewerage, organization of the passage of the gas pipeline and water supply are required. A well, septic tank or well is also required. These engineering objects must be located at a sufficient distance from each other. There must be a system street lighting. Electrical wiring must be carried out at a depth of 70 cm. Laying should be done before planting plants and arranging garden paths.

Recreation area

If the territory has been divided into an orchard, it is necessary to determine a place to rest. Even in a small area, you can place a modest, but harmoniously inscribed gazebo. It should be beautiful and comfortable. On the large territories it will be possible to create a summer kitchen, a swimming pool, an observation deck and so on.

The list of ideas is limited only by the possibilities of the area and the desire of the owner. But in any case, the rest area should be in comfortable place, do not interfere with other areas. It is preferable to remove it from economic blocks and communications.

Planting hole preparation

small garden layout large area involves proper planting. And this must be done according to certain rules. The garden should be planted in the fall. It is necessary to dig a planting hole according to the scheme, prepare fertilizers for the soil.

The pit will be of approximate size, since the final version is set on the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the seedling. The approximate size of the pit is 60x60 if the seedlings are 2-year-old, and for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm.

Soil preparation

Near each pit, mix the top layer of earth with humus and peat. In the spring, before planting, 1 cup is added to the mixture. wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska. Everything should be thoroughly mixed. Seedlings must be purchased from trusted manufacturers.

Acquisition and preparation of seedlings

Landing must be done in the spring. During the growing season, seedlings grow stronger. Young trees get used to a new location during the warm period. You should not buy seedlings from unfamiliar sellers. It is advisable to do this in farms that are engaged in their cultivation. Then it is more likely that a zoned variety will be purchased. It is necessary to inspect the acquired seedling. You should not take it if it has dry roots, a crooked trunk, cracks in the bark.

Landing

There are rules for planting seedlings. 1-2 days before that, they must be soaked in horse wine or another growth stimulant. Then you need to prepare a container of clay talker with root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides used for tank mixes are also suitable.

2-3 weeks before planting, you need to fill up part of the soil mixture with a cone in a hole. During this time, the cone will settle and the seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. It must be dipped into a mash, inserted into a hole, straightened the root so that there are no creases. 2/3 of the hole is filled with soil mixture.

It is necessary to fill a bucket of water. After soaking, you need to fill in the rest of the soil mixture or soil. You should drive a stake and fix the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling will break off small roots.

The subtleties of landing

During planting, you need to check the correct depth of the root neck. With deepening, the tree dries out after 5-10 years. With light sandy soils, it is advisable to deepen the root collar a little into the soil - by 10 cm. For seedlings that form roots or shoots, deepening will not interfere with the proper development of the plant. Such cultures quickly rebuild the root system.

In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be in the area of ​​the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher. And in the vaccinated, the grafting site is 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse these places. It is necessary to pay attention to planting, because with errors the tree quickly dies.

If the root neck is correctly determined and the seedling is planted so that it is 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. It is necessary to compact the kidney near the landing. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, you need to make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 buckets of water.

The root neck should be 2-3 cm higher than the soil. If necessary, you can add soil after watering and mulch with a layer of fine mulch. If live seedlings are purchased and the planting is carried out correctly, then after 2-3 weeks the first leaves will appear.

Definition of the root collar

1. In a young seedling with a damp cloth, you need to wipe the lower region of the trunk and root. The root neck can be established by the transition from greenish to light brown.
2. In adult seedlings (3-4 years old) you need to wipe wet rag the lower region of the trunk and, after drying, scrape off the bark with a knife. If in the expansion area the shade of the subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root part. The place of color transition is considered to be the root collar.
3. In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This will be the root collar.

What is forbidden to do when landing?

1. Apply semi-rotted manure, only humus with soil.
2. Water frequently with a small amount of water. This dries out the soil.
3. Use cold water for irrigation.
4. Fertilize the plants the first year.
5. After planting, mulch the near-stem area.

What do you need to do when landing?

1. Seedlings should be whitewashed with a solution of chalk with clay, biological products from diseases and pests.
2. Insulate the target with burlap, paper, lutrasil.
3. The netting will protect the trunk from rodents.
4. After a snowfall, trample down the snow near the trunk.

Thus, the layout of the garden involves competent zoning of the territory. It should have trees, shrubs, an area for recreation. Also needed proper fit plants in compliance with all regulations. Then it will turn out beautiful garden created according to the rules of landscape design.

As for the layout, in principle there are no special restrictions here. Fruit trees and berries can be placed apart and mixed or thicken one culture by another. Nevertheless, with separate planting, it is easier to carry out various activities for the destruction of pests and feeding trees.

Compact plantings allow the most complete use of the usable area of ​​the garden. To do this, trees of the same species, grafted on dwarf rootstocks, or cherry trees are planted between apple and pear trees. In young gardens, berry bushes, strawberries, and vegetables are planted between fruit trees. It is not necessary to plant high-stemmed crops in these aisles - tobacco, sunflower, corn. It is also not recommended to plant in the aisles. raspberries and blackberries: they litter the area with their offspring.

As a rule, fruit and berry crops are placed in gardens in straight rows.

Rows of apple and pear trees, and in the southern regions also apricots and cherries, are located at a distance of 6 m from each other, and there should be a distance of 8 m between trees in a row. With such distances, it is advisable to plant one cherry tree between two adjacent trees in a row, peach, quince, apple and pear grafted on dwarf rootstocks. If you plan to plant only berry or vegetable crops between rows, then the distance between trees in a row can be reduced to 6 m.

In the central and northeastern regions, plum and cherry are planted according to the 4x3 m scheme (4 m between rows and 3 m in a row), and in the southern regions 6x4 m. Peaches and quince are planted in separate plantings according to the 4x3 m scheme, and grapes - 2, 5x1.5 m.

The distances between buildings and trees should be at least 5-6 m and from the borders of the neighboring plot at least half the width of the aisle allotted for this crop. It is best to occupy the area along the border of the garden with neighboring plots with berry bushes. Usually, raspberries are planted to one border, and currants and gooseberries are planted to the other, retreating from the fence by 1 m.

When planting berry bushes, the following distances in rows are left: for raspberries - 0.75 m, for gooseberries and currants - 1.25 m each. If berries are planted in several rows, then the distances between rows are left: for raspberries - 1 m, for currants and gooseberries - 1.5 m each.

Before the trees begin to bear fruit, you can use the aisle for planting vegetables, potatoes, sometimes strawberries, currants and gooseberries. In the aisles, sowing and planting of raspberries, blackberries, tobacco, sunflowers, and corn is not allowed. These plants have a negative effect on fruit trees. Trunk circles cannot be occupied by inter-row crops.

As the trees grow, the number of plantings vegetable crops will steadily decrease. Aisles of apple trees can be used for 10-15 years, cherries and plums - 7-8 years.

In northern and western regions Russia is not recommended to plant more than 2-3 pear seedlings, as this crop is the least adapted to the harsh winter conditions. When choosing varieties and the number of apple seedlings, it must be borne in mind that it is better to plant an equal number of summer, winter and autumn varieties to extend the picking time for fresh fruit. A feature of this crop is that it needs cross-pollination for fruiting, therefore, when laying a garden, it is necessary to plant pollinating varieties.

Remember that the yield does not depend on the number of trees. One well-groomed tree yields more than 4-5 neglected ones. Almost all garden plants very photophilous, they grow well, bloom and bear fruit only in areas open to light. Shading oppresses them, sharply reduces the yield and its quality. For this reason, close proximity of fruit trees and shrubs with tall forest and ornamental trees should not be allowed.

It is necessary to think carefully about the placement of all plantations in order to prevent gradual thickening and shading of both the entire area as a whole and each plant on it. It is necessary to draw up on paper an exact plan of the site on a scale of 1:50 or 1:100, that is, 1 cm on the plan is equal to 0.5 or 1 m on the site, and depict there the landing sites and projections of the full-grown crowns of all trees and bushes, the location of buildings, tracks. This is the only way to correctly calculate the number of trees and bushes, place them, find the area and shape of flower beds and beds.

By placing plantings on the site, each gardener can show his imagination and invention, but the experience of amateur gardeners has already given reasonable and clear answers and solutions to a number of issues. For example, fruit trees and berry bushes should not be planted nearby. Currants, gooseberries and especially raspberries should be planted further from apple trees, and the latter should be planted separately from cherries and plums. Gooseberry bushes should not be planted next to blackcurrant bushes (sulfur preparations used in the fight against currant bud mites cause gooseberry leaves to fall off). Tall trees should not take light from undersized and shrubs. On the site you must have good track with a hard coating up to 1 m wide. Your plantings should not interfere with neighboring areas and shade them.

By the way

1. The apple tree gets along with pears, cherries, plums, quince, apple trees and does not tolerate proximity to cherries, viburnum, golden currants, barberries, lilacs, and mock oranges.
2. A pear will grow well next to an apple tree, red rowan, pear.
3. Cherry, plum, golden currant, viburnum, rose, lilac, mock orange, barberry oppress the pear.
4. A plum gets along with an apple tree and a plum, but not with a pear.
5. For cherries, apple, grapes and cherries will be suitable neighbors.
6. Potatoes growing in the aisles of apple trees literally poison the soil and, in fact, the life of apple trees. And so seriously that the taste of fruits worsens and their development is disturbed.
7. The fact that the smell of cabbage has a bad effect on grapes was already known in antiquity.

Important for the further growth and fruiting of trees are the timing of planting. Landing can be carried out approximately from April 20 to May 10 and from September 20 to October 20. However, it should be borne in mind that our country is large and in different regions winter comes sooner and later. Therefore, it is important to remember that tree planting is carried out only 20-25 days before the onset of frost.

In the spring, it is better to plant crops such as cherries and plums. Berries, on the contrary, are recommended to be planted in autumn, as their buds begin to swell even during the snowmelt period.

Many amateur gardeners are fond of planting mature trees 5-10 years old. Of course, this can be done if mature tree transplanted with a clod of earth weighing 3-4 tons. Transplanting such trees requires high costs labor and funds. And this is not for everyone. If an adult tree is transplanted without a coma, with short-cut roots, this will be of little use; it will not develop normally for a number of years and will not outstrip the trees planted with 2-3-year-old seedlings.

The younger the seedling, the easier it is to plant and the sooner and better it takes root.

Before landing, carefully inspect planting material. An apple and pear seedling at the age of 2-3 years has at least three strong shoots 60-70 cm long. The seedling must have a guide (leading shoot). On examination, attention should be paid to the root system. It should be fibrous. Average length roots - up to 40 cm. The trunk of the seedling should not have mechanical damage. Before planting, the leaves are removed, which greatly reduces the risk of drying out the roots. The roots of seedlings are carefully examined and parts of diseased, dried, broken and damaged roots are cut out with a sharp garden knife when digging up plants from the nursery. The ends of healthy roots are trimmed (cut) very little. The longer the roots and the more branched they are, the better seedlings take root and develop further.

Each of the branches of the seedling crown is shortened by one third of the length. When shortening the branches, they should be cut to the so-called external (external) kidney. In this case side shoots will develop to the sides and will not thicken the crown of the tree. Branches can be cut before planting, as well as after it.

After laying the garden, it will be quite difficult to cultivate the soil, so to simplify this task, they dig out before planting trees. landing pits. The soil is taken out, enriched nutrients and return to their original position. On medium-fertile soils, pits are dug 60 cm deep for apple and pear trees, 40 cm for cherries and plums, and 35 cm for berries. In soils with a shallow aquifer, the planting pit should be wide, but shallow. In insufficiently fertile soils, the pits are made wide, but at the same time deep.

If planting seedlings is planned for autumn, then it is better to dig planting holes 2-3 months before. For spring planting, the soil is prepared in the fall. Such compliance with the deadlines is necessary so that all acidic compounds that worsen the survival rate of seedlings have time to break down in the soil. Pits dug in heavy soils are sprinkled with well-fertilized soil for the winter in order to prevent them from being flooded with water.

Before you start digging holes, the plot intended for the garden is marked with stakes in the places where the trees will be located. To create an even row of seedlings, you can use landing board 2.0 m long, 12-15 cm wide and 2-3 cm thick. In the center of the board there should be a triangular cutout 4 cm deep. The same cutouts are made at the ends of the board, departing from the middle cutout by 75 cm.

For the correct and uniform development of the roots, it is necessary to dig holes with sheer walls. The pits are filled only with arable soil, fertilizers may not be applied. If there is not enough soil to fill, then it is taken from the top layer of row spacing. Low-value soil taken from the lower layer is used to level the site. Upper layer soils are thoroughly mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers: 8 buckets of compost or 4 buckets of humus, peat with 0.5 kg of superphosphate or 1 kg of wood ash. Manure cannot be used for these purposes, since, decomposing without air, it gives various acidic compounds that have a detrimental effect on plants.

If the soil is clayey, then clay can be poured into the bottom of the pit with a layer of 5-8 cm. autumn planting use compost made of clay and silt with manure. The ratio of components is 1 part clay and 3 parts manure. To speed up the compost decay, add to the mixture a small amount of lime, about 2-3% of the total mass. Compost is brought into the pit in three layers, sprinkled with soil mixed with fertilizers. Composting in this way prevents minerals from being washed out of the soil.

The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root neck is 4-5 cm above the soil level. When filling the soil, you need to make sure that it fills all the voids between the roots. After that, the earth is compacted. The tree must be planted so firmly that considerable effort is required to pull it out. To prevent the tree from swaying in the wind, it is tied with soft wire to stakes. It is not recommended to pull the wire, because as the soil settles, the tree itself will also fall. A hole is made next to the trunk, where 2-3 buckets of water are poured. When the water is absorbed, the hole is sprinkled with humus or peat.

Before the first autumn frosts, the root system is insulated with soil, laying it in a mound 20-30 cm high. After the snow melts, the earth is raked and tied with roofing paper or juniper branches to protect the trunk from damage by rodents.

Recently purchased country cottage area 15 acres in size. It has only the house itself, there are no plantings. We plan to break in the country small vegetable garden and small garden. Tell me, what is the scheme for planting a garden and trees relative to the sun, what else needs to be considered?

Everyone who has at least a small plot of land is sure to plant it with something - be it garden beds or small garden. In the case when the site got with already defined places for landing different cultures(allotted permanent place for a garden and a garden, there are perennial plantings), nothing needs to be changed much. Is it possible to replenish the garden with new trees and shrubs and observe ".

Those who are just planning to equip a garden and a vegetable garden are more fortunate. After all, they have the opportunity to correctly plan the scheme for planting a garden and trees relative to the sun. As you know, the presence of sufficient sunlight is a guarantee good harvest in future. However, there are other important factors that must be considered when planning a vegetable garden and a garden.

What should be considered when developing a landing scheme?

When planning a scheme for planting a garden and trees, you first need to consider which side of the sun the plantings will grow from.

For successful cultivation vegetables, they need to allocate the sunniest place on the site, preferably on the south side.

Shady places under the house, near the fence or tall trees can be left for onions grown on a feather (it can grow in partial shade). Or plant some herbs there.

When compiling a planting scheme, it is important to take into account not only the location of crops relative to the sun, but also the following factors:

1. Plot size. Considering overall size land plot, determine how much space can be allocated for a vegetable garden and a garden. If a total area small, and first of all the task is to set up a garden, it does not make sense to plant a lot of fruit trees. They can “take away” a place from other crops, since one adult tree with a spreading crown needs at least 4 sq.m. area.
2. General relief. The ideal terrain would be flat or slightly sloped. Avoid places where water stagnates - both vegetable and horticultural crops will feel bad there.
3. Soil condition. Each crop, both vegetable and fruit trees, has its own requirements for the condition of the soil, but they have one requirement in common - the soil must be fertile.
4. presence of winds. In open areas, you should create a shelter for plantings from the wind, which can cause damage to future crops.

The most common is a square or rectangular planting, in which the number of beds in the garden is determined depending on the size of the plot.

Near the garden, you can plant berry bushes. For planting red currants and gooseberries, well-lit dry places are taken away, and black currants can be placed in a more humid place. Raspberries are planted in the sun, but separately from other shrubs, as they grow very strongly and can drown out neighboring plantings.

Each group (trees, shrubs, vegetables) needs to be given its own place, you should not mix them. Growing trees will eventually take all the sunlight from vegetables or strawberries growing under them, and they will stop producing crops. Therefore, the garden is laid away from the garden.

Proper site planning - video

A rare owner of a private house prefers not to plant fruit trees on his plot. Everyone usually wants to have a fruit garden - in spring, trees delight with wonderful flowering and aroma, and fruits and berries from your own garden always seem much tastier than those bought in a store or market, besides, you know that these are environmentally friendly products. In the art of Feng Shui, the image of a blooming orchard is a symbol of abundance and prosperity. The layout of the garden is a responsible matter, their growth and ability to bear fruit will depend on how correctly you plant the trees, so this task must be treated with great attention.

If you want to grow vegetables in your garden as well, the layout of the garden and vegetable garden must be considered together. It is better to take a place for beds at the southern border, from north to south, this is better for crops growing in the middle lane. Some gardeners recommend placing beds from east to west. Behind the vegetable and strawberry (strawberry) beds are fruit bushes - currants, gooseberries. Trees are planted behind the bushes, a light shade from the trees will not harm the berry bushes, and the vegetable beds should be in the sun.

An example of the design of vegetable beds - they do not have to be square or rectangular, the original beds resemble flower beds

Before you start planning your garden, you need to take into account the following important factors:

• What is the size of the area can be allocated for an orchard. For trees with spreading crowns, a distance of 4 sq.m.
• terrain. For a fruit garden, flat terrain or a gentle slope would be ideal, cold air is retained in the hollows, excessive moisture, these areas are unfavorable for fruit trees.
• Soil analysis of your site. At fruit crops powerful root system, the soil must be fertile to provide it good food. Stony, clay, sandy soil is not suitable for a garden. The proximity of groundwater negatively affects the growth of trees.
• Presence of heat and light. For most fruit trees, it is important that there is plenty of light and heat; in the shade, they grow and bear fruit much worse. It should be said about the area with constant strong wind- the wind interferes with normal pollination, dries the soil, often damages crops and breaks tree branches. A high fence or green spaces can partially protect against winds.

Planning starts with a blueprint on paper. If there is already a house on the site, you need to start planning from it. A map of the site, the contours of the house and other buildings, as well as places where trees already grow, are applied to the paper on a scale.

This site is protected from the wind by trees planted around it, which have already grown enough to provide protection.

If the site is not built up yet, a place for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden on the site suggests the presence of a front garden. The house should face the street, in front of it there is a strip of land for the front garden. Its size depends on the area of ​​​​the site - for someone it is only a meter, for someone it is 6-8 meters. In a small front garden, flowers, raspberries and berry bushes are usually planted, in a large one - ornamental trees, flowers or several fruit trees at the discretion of the owners.

Large fruit trees - apple trees, pears, take a place in the northeast side of the site, between them and fruit bushes- a place for smaller trees - cherries, plums.

An example of the layout of the garden and vegetable garden - the site is divided into two parts. In the first half - a house surrounded by a front garden and beds with vegetables, the second half - an orchard with trees planted in rows

In general, it will be convenient to draw a site plan, put on it all the existing buildings, the proposed location of the garden and vegetable garden. On the site you need to mark the holes for planting trees. Try to plant trees at a distance so that as they grow, they do not obscure each other. Heap-growing bushes and trees in the garden do not grow well, in addition, conditions are created for diseases of horticultural crops. In fruit trees, the root system is powerful, it should develop freely.

Advice. If your site is overgrown with wild shrubs, there are stumps on it that need to be uprooted, do necessary work and burn the wood residues. Collect the ashes in a dry place, it will come in handy when creating fertile beds.

Usually, the layout of an orchard involves planting trees in such a way that they do not obscure the neighbors' plots, but it is not uncommon for a tree to grow near the fence itself, providing both owners and neighbors with fruits, while no one has any complaints.

Today it is fashionable to give beds original shape such as the pizza garden. The highlight is that from the round beds in the center, the rest diverge like slices of pizza, forming a circle.

At the borders of the site, raspberries, blackberries or berry bushes are usually planted, which also bear fruit well in shading.

Landscaping and regular planning

Below are examples of garden layouts for lovers of order and clarity of form and for those who like it when plants are in orchard they are also planted according to the scheme, but they give the impression of natural areas.

Landscaping involves the arrangement of trees and other crops in a free order, close to natural. In such a garden, in addition to fruit crops, decorative ones are also widely used.

An example of a free-plan garden - vegetable beds on the left and top, fruit trees planted in groups in the center and on the right

With regular planning, trees and shrubs, as well as vegetables in the garden, are planted in strict rows at the same distance. The landing pattern also has a strict geometric shape - a square for sections whose length and width are almost equal, and a rectangle for sections whose length is much greater than the width.

An example of a regular layout of a garden with a garden - a clear geometry, the site is divided into regular squares, rectangles, plants are planted in rows

Where are the best crops to plant?

These are trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in your latitudes. For the middle lane, these are pears, apple trees (it is advisable to plant several trees of different varieties), different varieties plums and cherry plums, cherries. Cherries and apricots will ripen in warm latitudes. Berry bushes - all varieties of currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. With a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot, shrubs are conveniently located around the perimeter.

If you plant several apple trees, among which there will be summer, autumn and winter apple trees, the fruits will delight you at different times of the year

An example of an interesting garden layout - paths diverge from a square of slabs in the center, between which there are beds, planted on each of the beds different cultures. Get comfortable with any of them.

On vegetable beds nearby, you need to plant crops that grow well in close proximity to each other:

• cabbage, cucumbers, peas;
• white cabbage, dill, potatoes, onions, lettuce, celery;
• tomatoes, peas, carrots;
• horseradish, potatoes, beans, onions, cabbage.

When you draw a diagram, decide which plants to plant and in what quantity, you can start marking the garden on the ground, buy seedlings and prepare the soil.