Light sensor (photorelay) for street lighting.

I thought for a long time whether to post this post: no special breakthrough technologies were used, the solution is typical ... But it might be interesting for beginner automators.

So, given - a toilet, a lamp incandescent in a ceiling lamp from IKEA. Lamp type - by design, replacement with CFL or LED is not considered. That is why it was decided to fight forgetful citizens who do not turn off the light with the help of automation ...

A PIR sensor and a relay were purchased from friendly Chinese (the cheapest, but with a rake, as it turned out later).

Although these components have been repeatedly “licked” and are well known, there were some surprises. The PIR sensor could not be adjusted for a long time, since the tuning resistors were not signed. Information on the Internet was also contradictory. At random, I figured out which one is responsible for the time delay, and which one is for the sensitivity (spoiler - a resistor that is closer to the jumper, regulates the time). The jumper also has a secret. In one position, it counts the time starting from the last movement, and in the other - from the moment of the last activation.

With the help of a soldering iron and some kind of mother, I assembled a test stand, figured out the settings and roughly adjusted the sensor. As a whole, the Arduino was not needed (although I kept it at hand). Then I began to think - how to organize the food for all this (there is not very much space in the ceiling). As a result, I found the smallest network charger with a USB output, removed the case, brought out 4 wires, tightened the board into heat shrink.

Total we have a sensor and a power supply. Now we need a relay. From the Chinese, something came in a very timely manner under the proud name "Relay module for Arduino". $0.47 a piece, you have to take it :). I connect power, signal input. Does not work. I check, everything goes off the sensor as it should, it comes to the relay. But it doesn't work. I copied the circuit from the board (I don’t give it here, everything is simple there: a key on a transistor and an electromagnetic relay controlled by it). It turns out that there is configured to operate NOT on a logical unit at the input, but on the SHORT of the input to the ground. Relay module for arduino, damn it!

What to do? Began to dig in a box of loose pieces. I found a certain optocoupler, with the help of it and two resistors I built a crutch.

Working.

Next is a matter of technology. Dismantling the ceiling, placing wires and blocks, soldering twists, heat shrink, all pies. The hardest part was soldering recent connections, when the ceiling was already hanging on the wall, I stood on a stepladder, and the tin from the soldering iron dripped merrily onto the protruding parts of the body. You can see the mounted system on KPDV.

Now about the logic of work. After turning on the light in the toilet with a regular switch, power comes to all units, the relay is activated to turn on and the lamp lights up. Now you can go to the privacy room and do your business. If you do them for a long time and do not move, the automation will turn off the light after a configured period of time. In order for the light to light up again, it is enough to wave your hand or another no less massive part of the body (the PIR sensor reacts to the movement of objects emitting in the IR range). When leaving, you can turn off the light regularly, or forget to do it (for you, the automation will do this after a while). Now the timer is set for two minutes, we will correct it upon receipt of feedback from users. The sensor does not work on the cat (she does not need it).

I don’t give diagrams, everything is simple there - 5V power supply, a signal from the sensor to the optocoupler assembly, from there to the input of the Chinese relay that controls the lamp.
Thanks for attention.

Lighting control with the help of automatic switches has long become a habitual action in the life of every person. This control is easy to install and use.

Often there are situations when someone can forget to turn off the lights on the street or in the house. As a result, energy is wasted and the fire hazard. This is due to the human factor, which is changeable and leads to such consequences. But there is also an automatic shutdown of the light. , which can fully control the power supply when the sensor is connected to the circuit.

Automatic switching on of light in the apartment and house

Depending on the installation location, several principles of operation of these devices can be selected. They may react:

• For cotton palms or just noise.
• For movement people or objects in the room.
• For the degree of illumination .

All of them can be combined with each other and work in one circuit, which allows lighting to be controlled in several ways at once.

To control the lighting in the rooms, two types of sensors will help. For the bathroom, motion sensors are most often used to control light. For example, if someone comes in, the device turns on the power of the lamp, and when you leave after a minute, when there is no movement, the lighting turns off.

Features of the sensors

The motion recorder constantly scans the room for the presence of infrared rays in it. As soon as they appear, an instant operation occurs. During a long stay of a person in a room, the space is constantly scanned by a presence sensor, which is much more sensitive than a motion sensor.

He is able to distinguish the slightest movements that still occur. This helps him a large number of lenses that constantly collect information and feed it to the central optical element.

The smart light switch can also be operated by clapping your hands. To do this, it has a microphone with high selectivity, which is able to distinguish characteristic sound from the rest. There are also options for automation that analyzes the resulting spectrum with a fragment recorded in it. Such a performance will allow you to control the light with the help of a certain word, sound or other noises.

Smart switches for street lighting

As a rule, an automatic light switch with a photo sensor is used on the street. , which responds to the level of illumination. He is able to turn on the lighting at dusk and when it starts to get light again in the morning, turn it on. It is completely self-contained and requires only one-time installation and configuration.

Sometimes you need to automate the lighting in the hallway or landing. For this purpose, a motion sensor is ideal, which will illuminate the path during the passage of space by a person.

To operate, the light sensor uses a photocell that is sensitive to the ambient light level. It can be configured to certain trigger levels. This may be the onset of complete darkness or a slight blackout. Also, this sensor is successfully used in combination with a motion recorder.

As a result, it turns out that at night, if there is movement near the sensor, the lighting will turn on. In the daytime, a closed light sensor will interfere with operation.

For correct installation The light sensor must be installed in a neutral zone where it will not be exposed to light from the lamp. It is also desirable that it is not in the shade of trees or other objects. Since it must be installed outdoors, its degree of protection must provide a standard of at least IP44.

When controlling several consumers of electricity at once, you need to check the total load that passes through the sensor. If it exceeds the rated power, then special controllers will be required to receive a signal from the sensor, which will regulate the lighting.

Switches for smart home serve to increase the comfortable use of lighting, which is automatically adjusted depending on the installed sensors. When several of them are combined in one chain, it turns out flexible system for lighting control.

It is worth noting that in addition to controlling light bulbs, such sensors can successfully turn on the power of ventilation, air conditioning, heating or other devices, depending on the user's requirements.

Each of us dreams of own house was automated and to turn on the light or TV it was enough just to enter the room. If with household appliances in terms of automation, things are not very good, then everything is much better with the lighting system. And today in a house or apartment, with the help of special devices, it is relatively easy to create a system for automatic lighting.

Our article will tell you how you can organize with your own hands in any room of the house. quality system lighting in automatic mode.

Backlight Automation: Benefits and Purpose

Creation of a system for automatic control home lighting is a dream that today is easily realized with the help of special equipment. Such systems in the house have the following advantages:

• effective and comfortable control of the operation of lighting devices without direct human intervention;
• the ability to install automatic device do-it-yourself light control systems;
• automatic switching on of light in the dark;
• saving on electricity. The device (motion sensor, relay, etc.), which is used in a given situation, allows you to achieve varying degrees of energy savings.

Automatic room lighting

It should be noted that automatic lighting systems used indoors are included in the concept of " smart House" or " smart light". By connecting such systems, you get the opportunity to quickly, comfortably and effective management the level of lighting in any room of the house where the necessary equipment is installed.
Depending on which device a particular device has (sensor, relay, etc.), turning on the light can be done as follows:

• through registration by the device in a given area of ​​motion. Here, the device contains a special sensor that captures any changes in the controlled area. Here, to turn off / on the lighting, you need to install a motion sensor;
• through sound effects. For example, to turn on the light, you need to clap your hands. Here you need a special sound switch;
• through the degree of illumination. In this situation, a relay is used, the device of which is able to assess the level of illumination in the house and, if it falls below a certain indicator, turn on the light.

Note! All of the above methods of turning on and off the lighting at night can be used both in the house and on the street. But those devices that are able to respond to a sound signal should be installed in rooms in order to reduce the risk of false alarms.

In some situations, it is even possible to combine appliances that have miscellaneous device to achieve the most complete automation of the system for automatically turning on the light in any room of the house or apartment.
Now let's consider in more detail each type of apparatus used to organize an automatic lighting system.

Motion sensors - the most common option

Most often, the automatic lighting system in the house is organized by installing motion sensors. Such devices are very diverse:

• infrared. Are the safest in terms of long-term operation in residential premises. They evaluate changes in the thermal signal and, if a difference is found between the sent and received signal, they can turn on or off the light in the room;

Infrared motion sensor

• microwave and ultrasonic sensor. Such products are often used to automate the lighting system on the street. This is due to the fact that microwave control of light, especially with prolonged use, can adversely affect the health of people. The principle of operation of the microwave and ultrasonic sensors is almost the same. The difference lies only in the type of signal received and emitted: microwaves or ultrasound. The organization schemes of such devices are almost identical;

Microwave motion sensor

Combined sensor

• combined sensor. Such light control, like infrared, is the most optimal for the home. The combined sensor device contains two types of sensors that analyze the signals in the monitored area.

Note! Combined and infrared sensors give a minimum number of false positives.

For correct operation The device needs wiring diagrams, which are usually provided by manufacturers and are either in the instructions for the device or printed on the side of the package. Wiring diagrams may have different kind. It all depends on the model of the device with which it is planned to organize the control of light.
Installation of motion sensors is possible in any room of the house, including the bathroom and toilet. The light in such a situation will turn on when a person enters the room, and turn off when he leaves.
In addition, such devices are often combined with an element such as an automatic light switch. It can complement other types of devices in this system.

Smart switch - clap your hands

smart switch

Another rather original, but, nevertheless, popular way to turn on the light in the room is to install a switch that reacts to clapping your hands.

Such a device is equipped with a microphone, which is characterized by high selectivity. This microphone is able to distinguish a certain sound and separate it from other sound vibrations. In addition, the smart switch is equipped with special automation, which is able to analyze the received sound spectrum and isolate the necessary signal from it.

Note! The smart switch can react not only to the clap of the palms, but also to a special word. If desired, any variation of sound vibrations can be used as a signal. The main thing here is to correctly set everything up.

To install such a switch, special schemes are also used. This must be taken into account when installing the device in the house.
It is best to use the switch in rooms such as the bedroom, living room, kitchen, corridor. But for a bathroom with a toilet, a smart switch is not suitable.

Photorelay and their role in the automatic lighting system at home

photorelay

All devices that are used to organize in the home automatic system backlight, can respond to some extent to the degree of illumination. But there are special products that respond to the level of natural light. These are relays of various modifications.

Light control here occurs with a decrease in the level natural light below the set value. In order for the control to be correct, a relay of such a plan must be installed using correct schemes. The relay is installed in the lighting device. Only after that control will be available. Therefore, if at least one wire is connected incorrectly, the relay will not function as it should.

Photorelay connection diagram

At the same time, it should be noted that when organizing an automatic lighting system inside a residential building, a photorelay or its other modifications are rarely used. More often they are included in the outdoor lighting system, where their placement will be most relevant and effective. Here, as a rule, a photo relay is used, which has the form of a sensor. It has a certain sensitivity to light rays. Getting on the relay, the sun's rays contribute to the transition of the device to the isolator mode. But in the dark, when the luminous flux weakens, the relay is converted into a conductor. As a result of this transformation, the light turns on at night and in the evening. The device is powered from the mains of the house.

Conclusion

In order to organize high-quality and effective system automatically turn on the light, three groups of devices can be used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which should be considered when choosing for a home. There are some devices (microwave motion sensors), long work which near people is unacceptable due to causing significant harm to health. And this article will help you make an informed choice in favor of one or another type. automatic appliance for lighting living rooms.

How to choose and install volume sensors for automatic light control
Homemade adjustable transistor power supplies: assembly, practical application

Motion sensors made human life much easier. They are installed in various devices, including lighting. So, a person does not need to look for a switch in the dark now. Thanks to installed sensor motion light will automatically turn on.

Lighting appears due to the transmission of a signal to the control panel that there is movement in the room. So, we will consider the principle of operation of the device, which are, and also analyze the main models on the market.

It is worth noting that the sensor itself is not installed in the plinth, but on the wall. Its viewing angle is up to 120 degrees.

In the field of view of the sensor, the level of radiation is fixed. At rest, the sensor "keeps silent". When an object enters the field of view, a voltage change occurs at the output. Depending on the type of sensor, the signal transmission method varies.

A series of pulses about the appearance of an object is transmitted to the central control panel. Depending on the sensitivity level, the light on the object turns on within 3-10 seconds. In order for the lighting to appear quite quickly, the motion sensor is installed at the entrance to the room..

Types of motion sensors

There are quite a few types of motion sensors on the market today. Depending on the existing tasks at the facility, budget and external conditions, it is necessary to install one or another motion sensor to turn on the light. So, you can install an ultrasonic, infrared or microwave sensor.

Ultrasonic The sensor works on the principle of reflection of waves from the objects that surround it. It is believed that this most reliable device presented on the market, while the price for it is the most attractive. Such a device allows you to save electricity, it is easy to operate and quite functional. If necessary, you can connect the sensor to a microphone or monitor to monitor the object. the only disadvantage this sensor is the complexity of the installation.

Infrared The sensor works like a thermometer. When an object enters, whose body temperature is higher than in the room, a signal is transmitted to the control panel. Within 3-10 seconds, the light turns on automatically. chief disadvantage such a sensor is a response to a change in temperature.. Therefore, it is not suitable for rooms where there is heating appliances. It is not recommended to install it in front of the door. However, these sensors are usually used in residential areas. This is due to the ability to adjust the temperature range so that the light does not turn on on pets.

Microwave The sensor works like a locator. So, the device periodically sends signals of a certain range. When the signal returns, the sensor is triggered. This is the most advanced sensor on the market today. His maximum sensitivity, and the viewing angle reaches 120 degrees. However, the cost of such a sensor is quite high, so they are installed in office space or in manufacturing plants.

There are also motion sensors for turning on the light. outdoor and indoor execution. If the room sensor operates at a temperature of 0-45 degrees Celsius, then the outdoor sensor can withstand frosts down to -50 degrees. When installing signaling devices, it is important to consider the range of the device. Most often, devices are installed that operate at 100–500 meters, but there are professional models, whose range is close to one kilometer. Note that many sensors only work with lighting fixtures a certain type. It is important to consider this nuance during installation.

Recall that the main purpose of motion sensors to turn on the light is to save electricity.

When installed in a large commercial facility, energy savings range from 25 to 40%.

Selecting a motion sensor to turn on the light

Of course, you can purchase any type of motion sensor. But when choosing, it is imperative to build on the planned budget and technical capabilities object. There are several rules when installing motion sensors.

Yes, many experts recommend installing in parallel with the motion sensor ordinary switch . The fact is that if you need to stay indoors for a long time, then in order for the light to burn, you will have to constantly move. Otherwise, after a certain time, it will turn off if a non-IR motion sensor is used.

To prevent the device from working on pets, it should be installed at a distance of 1 meter from the floor. If it is important that the viewing angle is maximum, the sensor is installed on the ceiling.

In the apartment you can install the most simple sensors- ultrasonic. But, for dark and cold basements, infrared devices are recommended. They are the most suitable for such objects. As for microwaves, they are universal, although due to high cost their installation is more often carried out at large industrial facilities.

Manufacturers

There are several major manufacturers on the market today. But most of them have factories in China. However, there are several domestic manufacturers who assemble sensors in Russia from Chinese components. The cost of such models is slightly higher, but it fully pays off with an extended warranty period.

It is important to note that the price for the device directly depends on the distance of the central warehouse of the supplier or manufacturer. Yes, on Far East Chinese models are much cheaper than domestic ones. Sensors can be found in Moscow Russian production, which will cost less than imported ones. The most reliable and easy-to-install sensors are Ultralight, Theben and Sen. Lately Camelion LX-03A became very popular on the market.

Though specifications, in fact, are the same everywhere in the technical passport, domestic street models are more frost-resistant. Warranties typically range from 6 months to 1 year.

Installation of motion sensors

Theoretically, it is very easy to install a sensor that will respond to sound or movement. It is necessary to connect the wires of the device with the wiring. In order for everything to look aesthetically pleasing, a special junction box is used. When installing, you must follow a few rules.

First, you should immediately think of an installation location, since moving the sensor to another location after its installation will be quite difficult and labor-intensive. Secondly, the switch must work separately from the motion sensor. Otherwise, difficulties may arise if the sensor breaks. Thirdly, it is important to understand in advance what range device will be needed on a given object. It is important that the sensor is not exposed to direct sunlight. Otherwise, it will break quickly.

However, in order for everything to be installed correctly, it is recommended to contact a specialist. If the sensor is purchased directly from the installation company, then you can save on installation. The higher the order value, the more discount. In some cases, installation may be free.

A selection of amateur radio designs various kinds circuit breakers and lighting control circuits for lighting both indoors and outdoors.

When lighting long corridors, flights of stairs, entrances, hangars and similar places where it is required to turn on or off the light from two or more places, corridor switches are usually used. Install them in opposite parts of the corridor. The circuit is standard and probably known to any electrician, and to change the state of such a switch, the switch must be flipped to the opposite of the previous position. That's why typical scheme requires laying three wires to the switches instead of two, and this is only on condition that you need to control the lighting from two places. In this article, we will show illustrative examples how to get around these shortcomings.

Such circuits are ideal for applications where human presence is not prolonged. The light burns only as long as you need it. After leaving the place, the lighting turns off with a short time delay, which allows you to save electricity well. In addition, such amateur radio designs are an excellent way to scare off petty thieves who are frightened by a suddenly turned on light.

The most common design is light control based on a motion sensor and an AVR microcontroller, but if a person is just standing, the lighting will turn off. The scheme based on the pyrodetector is quite complicated and needs to be adjusted and adjusted. But the circuit on the ultrasonic sensor is devoid of these shortcomings.

The automatic light switch is capable of turning on or off the light or other load daily at the programmed time. It is assembled using a PIC12C508 microcontroller. (Firmware for MK attached).

Getting into the darkness it is not always possible to immediately find the light switch, especially if it is far from the door. A similar situation can be in the case of leaving the premises, when we turned off the lighting and then have to go to the exit by feel. An acoustic switch, the circuits and designs of which are discussed in this article, can save you from problems.

The clap switch device is triggered by an audible clap signal. If the volume is enough, then the circuit turns on the lighting in the entrance (or other room) for one minute. The first design has one interesting feature to prevent looping work, namely, the microphone turns off automatically after the light is turned on, and turns back on only a couple of seconds after the light is turned off.

The circuit breaker is based on the domestic microcircuit KR512PS10, which is a multifunctional multivibrator - counter. The microcircuit contains logical inverters for an RC circuit or a quartz multivibrator and a counter with a maximum division ratio of 235929600. That is, when using a standard clock resonator at 32768 Hz and selecting the maximum division ratio mode, the output of the counter will be pulses with a period of 120 minutes. And the output unit appears after 60 minutes. Thus, if we set the moment when one appears at the output after zeroing, then a time interval equal to one hour is obtained. Chip outputs 10 and 9 are open drain, so pull-up resistors are needed there. Well, now I’ll talk a little about the other pins of the microcircuit and their purpose (it can be useful when upgrading or refining the circuit for a different purpose). And so, pin 3 is the STOP pin, when a logical unit is applied to it, the counter freezes. Conclusion 2 - zeroing, apply a unit to it and the counter is reset. Pin 11 controls the level at output 10. If pin 11 is zero, then the level at pin 10 will be the opposite of the level at pin 9.

If there is a unit, then conclusions 10 and 9 work the same way. To set the division factor, pins 1, 12, 15, 13, 14 are used. If they are all zeros, then the division factor will be the minimum base one, equal to 1024. When one is applied to any of these setting pins, the base factor is multiplied by the factor of this output. For example, if you apply a unit to pin 1 (128), then the division factor will be 128x1024=131072. One can only be applied to one of the pins 13, 14 or 15, while the other two of the three pins must be zeros. But on conclusions 1 and 12 units can be applied at the same time. All division coefficients, to the conclusions of which units are fed, are multiplied, and then the result is multiplied by the base coefficient of 1024. Turning on the night light can be done in two ways. Initially, the night light is turned on as usual - by the mains switch S2. At the same time, the lamp immediately lights up and the countdown begins. If it has already been turned on and turned off before, then you can turn it on again either by pressing the S1 button, or by turning it off and then turning it on with switch S2. After any of the above switching options, the counter D1 is reset to zero (capacitor C1 or button S1). In this state, the counter outputs (pins 9 and 10) are zero. Transistor VT1 is closed and does not shunt the gate circuit of the field effect transistor VT2. The opening voltage is supplied to the gate VT2 through the resistor R6, which is limited at an acceptable level by the zener diode VD2.

Therefore, the transistor VT2 opens and turns on the H1 lamp (which is powered by a pulsating voltage through the VD3-VD6 rectifier bridge. Such an unusual control circuit for the high-voltage field-effect key transistor is due to the fact that the passport value of the supply voltage KR512PS10 is 5V, and the voltage at the gate of the IRF840 field-effect transistor, which provides it full opening, according to the reference data, must be at least 8V, therefore, the VT2 gate and the microcircuit are powered by different sources, and the transistor VT1 performs the functions of not only an inverter, but also a level matcher. An hour after zeroing, logical ones appear on pins 9 and 10 of D1. Pin 9 stops the counter by applying a logical unit to pin 11. And pin 10 opens transistor VT1. That, having opened, shunts the gate circuit of the field-effect transistor VT2 and the voltage at its gate drops to zero. Transistor VT2 closes and lamp H1 goes out. The microcircuit is powered by a voltage of 5V (or rather, 4.7V) from a parametric stabilizer on a zener diode VD1 and resistor R5. Button S1 must be non-latching. You can do without this button at all.

In this case, in order to turn on the night light after it has been automatically turned off, you will need to turn it off with the power switch S2 and turn it on again. By the way, you can also refuse the power switch in favor of the S1 button. But then it will be possible to turn off the night light ahead of time only by disconnecting the plug from the power outlet. And there is also a third option - installation instead of a switch button. Then the switch, being in the on state, will block the timer, and there will be no automatic turning off of the light. And in order to switch to automatic mode, you will need to turn off the switch installed instead of S1. The Q1 quartz resonator is a standard clock resonator. It can be replaced with an imported clock resonator at 16384 Hz (from Chinese quartz alarm clocks), but then the time the night light is on will double, respectively.

In the absence of the necessary quartz resonator, and also, if you wish to make a continuously adjustable time interval, you can perform the multivibrator part of the circuit on RC elements with a variable resistor, as shown in the second figure. The IRF840 transistor can be replaced by a domestic analogue of the type KP707B, KP707V. Transistor KT3102 - almost any ordinary low-power transistor p-p-p structures, for example, KT315. The KS147A zener diode can be replaced by any 4.7 - 5.1V zener diode. There is big choice imported zener diodes for such a voltage. The same can be said about the D814D-1 zener diode, but only it should be for any voltage in the range from 9 to 13V. The rectifier bridge is made on 1N4007 diodes, these are now perhaps the most common medium power rectifiers operating on mains voltage. Of course, you can replace any other rectifier diodes with forward current and reverse voltage parameters not less than this one. Capacitor C4 must be for a voltage of at least 6V, and capacitor C5 for a voltage of at least 12V. In nightlights, low-power lamps are usually installed. If this is an incandescent lamp, then its power does not exceed 25-40 W. However, this circuit allows you to work with lamps up to 200W inclusive (without a radiator for VT2). Although, this may already matter only if this circuit is not used to control a night light.

The schemes discussed in this article are designed to automatically turn on street lighting at nightfall and automatically turn it off at dawn. Some of them have original circuit solutions.

The proposed amateur radio design smoothly turns on and off staircase lighting when a person appears in the area of ​​action of the pyroelectric motion sensor (DD), and thanks to the K145AP2 microassembly, it is precisely a smooth increase in brightness when the light is turned on and its decrease when turned off.

The circuit breaker consists of a light sensor, a converted Chinese quartz alarm clock and a trigger that combines them with a high-voltage output switch. A phototransistor FT1 is used as a light sensor. By selecting the resistance of the resistor R1, its sensitivity is adjusted so that during the day the voltage on R1 is above the switching threshold of the logic element by one, and at night below this threshold. If the sensor is configured correctly, then while the voltage at pin 1 D1.1 is light enough, it is a logical unit. With darkening, the phototransistor closes and the voltage at pin 1 D1.1 decreases. At some point, it reaches the upper threshold of logical zero. This causes the start of the one-shot D1.1-D1.2, which generates a pulse that sets the flip-flop D1.3-D1.4 to one.

The voltage from the output of the element D1.3 is supplied to the gate of the high-voltage field effect transistor VT1. Its channel opens and turns on the lamp of the lamp. The gate VT1 is connected to the output D1.3 through the resistor R4, which reduces the load on the output of the logic element from the charge relative to large capacity transistor gate. The presence of the R4-VD2 circuit greatly facilitates the operation of the logic chip and eliminates the tendency to fail. The lamp is on. The trigger is in a steady state, so it stays on even if the light from the lamp hits the phototransistor. To turn off the lamp, a Chinese quartz alarm mechanism is used. The alarm clock must be set to real time, and the call to the time when the lamp should be turned off, for example, for two hours. The alarm clock is being redesigned. The diagram highlights the alarm clock circuit, it shows the board electronic device alarm clock with all connections. The board is shown as it looks. B is the alarm buzzer, L is its stepper drive, S is the switch connected to the clockwork. Also labeled is the power supply. To give a command to turn off the lamp, a mechanical switch S is used, which is associated with the alarm clock mechanism. To disconnect it from the alarm clock chip, you need to cut the printed track on the board. And then solder the wire to the printed pad connected to switch S. All these operations can be done without removing the board from the alarm clock. Carefully remove the back cover of the clock mechanism, having previously removed all the handles.

You need to be careful not to break the mechanism. Then, with a thin awl, we tear the printed track on the board and solder the mounting wire with a thin soldering iron. After that, we bring the wire into the battery compartment and very carefully close the lid so that all the gears become in their holes. As soon as the alarm clock hands are set at a predetermined time, for example, at 2-00, contacts S close and close output 13 D1.4 to a common minus.

This is tantamount to submitting this conclusion logic zero. The trigger switches to the zero state, the voltage at the output D1.3 drops, and VT1 closes, turning off the H1 lamp. The alarm clock has a standard 12-hour scale, so the contacts will close twice a day, but this does not matter, since, for example, closing them at 2-00 in the afternoon will not lead to anything, because during the day the light is turned off anyway. Although, an incorrect installation option is also possible, for example, at 7-00, that is, if you want the light to burn all night and turn off at dawn, at 7-00 in the morning. But, if it gets dark at 18-00 (6-00 pm), then the light will turn off at 19-00 (7-00 am). Therefore, such a setting should be avoided - it is necessary that the alarm setting corresponds to the day and night time of the day, and not to the morning and evening. The circuit and the lamp are powered by a constant pulsating current through a VD3-VD6 diode rectifier. The voltage to the microcircuit is supplied from a parametric stabilizer on resistors R5-R7 and a zener diode VD1.

Switch S2 is used to manually turn on the lamp. A phototransistor, a photoresistor, a photodiode switched on by a photoresistor (reverse polarity) can be used as a photo sensor. The brand of the used phototransistor is not known to me. I took a phototransistor from dismantling the tape drive mechanism of an old faulty VCR. Experimentally checked where the output is and what the resistance R1 is about 70 kOhm (set 68 kOhm). When using another phototransistor, photoresistor or photodiode, the same experiments will need to be carried out to find the required resistance R1. You can first replace R1 with two variable resistors of 1 megaohm and 10 kOhm, connecting them in series.

By experimenting with light, you will find the desired resistance, then measure and replace with a constant resistor close in value. Without a radiator and with the diodes shown in the diagram, the KP707V2 transistor can switch a lamp with a power of up to 150 W inclusive. Diodes KD243Zh can be replaced by KD243G-E, 1 N4004-1 N4007 or other similar ones. Chip K561LA7 can be replaced by K176LA7 or CD4011. Zener diode VD2 - any for a voltage of 12V, for example, KS512. The KP707V2 transistor can be replaced with KP707A1, KP707B2 or IRF840. The quartz alarm clock is "KANSAI QUARZ", or so it is written on its dial.

Many people forget to turn off the light in the toilet, bathroom or hallway when they leave the room. And if they do not forget, then the switch in these places can quickly break down from frequent mechanical stress. All this indirectly suggests the need to install an automatic lighting control unit, for example, such amateur radio developments that are described in this article. The proposed block diagrams automatically control lighting, and the control element in them is the door in the reed sensor system.

The circuit breaker is assembled on just two digital microcircuits DD1 and DD2, one transistor; and one trinistor. It contains a pulse generator built on logic elements DD1.2-DD1.4, capacitor C7 and resistor R10, and generates rectangular pulses with a frequency of 10,000 Hz (or 10 kHz is the audio frequency). Moreover, the stability of the frequency does not matter much. Therefore, the repetition period of these pulses is 0.1 ms (100 µs). These pulses are practically symmetrical, so the duration of each pulse (or a pause between them) is approximately 50 μs.

On the logic elements DD1.1, DD2.1, capacitors C1-C3, resistors R1, R2, diode VD1 and antenna WA1 with connector X1, a capacitive relay is made that reacts to the capacitance between the antenna and the network wires. When this capacitance is insignificant (less than 15 pF), rectangular pulses of the same frequency of 10 kHz are formed at the output of the DD1.1 element, but the pause between them is reduced (due to the differentiating chain C1R1) to 0.01 ms (10 μs). It is clear that the pulse duration is 100 - 10 = 90 μs. However, in such a short time, the capacitor C3 still manages to be almost completely discharged (through the VD1 diode), since its charging time (through the resistor R2) is long and approximately equal to 70 ms (70,000 μs).

Since the capacitor is charged only at a time when the output of the element DD1.1 has high level voltage (be it a pulse or just a constant level), during a pulse with a duration of 90 μs, the capacitor C3 does not have time to noticeably charge, but; therefore, a high voltage level remains at the output of the DD2.1 element all the time. When the capacitance between the WA1 antenna and the network wires increases (for example, due to the human body) to 15 pF or more, the amplitude of the pulse signal at the inputs of the DD1.1 element will decrease so much that the pulses at the output of this element will disappear and turn into a constant high level. Now capacitor C3 can be charged through resistor R2, and a low level is set at the output of element DD2.1.

It is he who starts the single vibrator (waiting multivibrator), assembled on the logic elements DD2.2, DD2.3, capacitor C4 and resistors R3, R4. While the capacitance of the antenna circuit is small, due to which a high voltage level is present at the output of the DD2.1 element, the single vibrator is in a state in which the output of the DD2.2 element will be low, and the output of DD2.3 will be high. The time-setting capacitor C4 is discharged (through the resistor R3 and the input circuit of the element DD2.3). However, as soon as the capacitance increases markedly and a low level appears at the output of the DD2.1 element, the single vibrator will immediately generate a time delay, at the indicated ratings of the C4R3R4 circuit, equal to approximately 20 s.

Just at this time, a low level will appear at the output of the DD2.3 element, and a high level will appear at the output of DD2.2. The latter is able to open an electronic key made on the logic element DD2.4, transistor VT1, diode VD3 and resistors R5-R8. But this key does not remain open all the time, which would be clearly inappropriate both in terms of energy consumption and, most importantly, because of the completely useless heating of the control transition of the VS1 trinistor. That's why electronic key works only at the beginning of each half-cycle of the network, when the voltage across the resistor R5 increases once again to about 5 V.

At this point in time, instead of a high voltage level, a low voltage level appears at the output of the DD2.4 element, due to which the transistor VT1 opens first, and then the trinistor VS1. But, as soon as the latter opens, the voltage on it will decrease significantly, due to which the voltage at the upper (according to the circuit) input of the DD2.4 element will decrease, and therefore the low level at the output of this element will again abruptly change to a high one, which will cause automatic closing transistor VT1. But the trinistor VS1 will remain open (on) during this half-cycle.

During the next half-cycle, everything will repeat in the same sequence. Thus, the electronic key opens only for a few microseconds required to turn on the trinistor VS1, and then closes again once again. Due to this, not only the power consumption and heating of the trinistor are reduced, but also the level of radiated radio interference is sharply reduced. When the 20-second exposure ends, and the person has already left the "magic" rug, a high level appears again at the output of the DD2.3 element, and a low level appears at the output of DD2.2. The latter locks the electronic key through the lower input of the element DD2.4. In this case, the transistor VT1, and hence the trinistor VS1, can no longer be opened (according to the upper input of the DD2.4 element in the diagram) by synchronizing network pulses. If the shutter speed has expired, but the person still remains on the mat (on the WA1 antenna), the electronic key will not lock until the person leaves the mat.

As can be seen from Fig. 1, the VS1 trinistor is able to close the horizontal (according to the diagram) diagonal of the VD5 diode bridge. But this is tantamount to closing the vertical diagonal of the same bridge. Therefore, when the trinistor VS1 is open, the EL1 lamp is on; when it is not open, the lamp is extinguished. Lamp EL1 and switch SA1 are standard electrical appliances available in the hallway. So, with the SA1 switch, you can still turn on the EL1 lamp at any time, regardless of the machine. You can turn it off only when the trinistor VS1 is closed. However, it is also important that after closing the contacts of the SA1 switch, the machine will be de-energized. Therefore, the formation of the time delay can always be interrupted, if desired, by closing and then opening the SA1 switch. The machine is powered by a parametric stabilizer containing a ballast resistor R9, a rectifier diode VD4 and a zener diode VD2. This stabilizer produces a constant voltage of about 10 V, which is filtered by capacitors C6 and C5, and capacitor C6 smooths out low-frequency ripples of this voltage, and C5 - high-frequency ones.

Briefly consider the operation of the machine (assuming that the SA1 switch is open). As long as the WA1 antenna is not blocked by the capacitance of the human body, there is a constant high level at the output of the DD2.1 element. Therefore, the single vibrator is in standby mode, in which there is a low level at the output of element DD2.2, locking (at the lower input of element DD2.4) the electronic key. As a result, the VS1 trinistor is not opened by the clock pulses arriving at the upper input of the DD2.4 element from the VD5 bridge through the R6 resistor. When a person blocks the antenna circuit, a low level appears at the output of the DD2.1 element, triggering a single vibrator, and a high level appears at the output of the DD2.2 element, opening the electronic key and the trinistor VS1 for 20 s (the EL1 lamp is on during this time). If by that time the blocking of the antenna circuit has been terminated (the person has left the mat), the EL1 lamp goes out, if not, it continues to burn until the person leaves the mat.

In any case, the single vibrator (and the machine as a whole) again goes into standby mode. To turn off the light ahead of schedule (without waiting 20 seconds), if it is suddenly necessary, it is enough to close and open the SA1 switch. Then the machine also goes into standby mode. The required sensitivity of the machine depends on the dimensions of the WA1 antenna, the thickness of the mat and other factors that are difficult to account for. Therefore, the desired sensitivity is selected by changing the resistance of the resistor R1. Thus, an increase in its resistance leads to an increase in sensitivity, and vice versa. However, one should not get carried away with excessive sensitivity for two reasons. Firstly, an increase in the resistance of the resistor R1 over 1 MΩ, as a rule, requires filling it with varnish in order to exclude the influence of air humidity on the operating mode.

Secondly, with excessive sensitivity of the machine, its false positives are not ruled out. They are also possible after the floor in the hallway is washed, but not yet dry. Then, in order to turn off the light, you should temporarily disconnect the WA1 antenna using a single-pole connector X1. The WA1 antenna is a sheet of one-sided foil fiberglass, covered from the foil side with a second sheet of thin textolite, getinaks or polystyrene. Along the perimeter of the first sheet, the foil is removed in one way or another to a width of about 1 cm. Then both sheets are glued together, carefully filling with glue (for example, epoxy putty) those peripheral places of the antenna where the foil is removed.

Particular attention should be paid to the reliability of the termination of the wire coming from the foil to the outside of the antenna. dimensions antennas depend on the available mat. Approximately its area (on the foil) is 500 ... 1000 cm2 (suppose 20x30 cm). If the length of the wire going from the machine to the antenna is significant, it may be necessary to shield it (the screen stocking is connected then, on the one hand, the sensitivity of the machine will inevitably decrease, on the other hand, the capacitance of the capacitor C1 may have to be slightly increased. Since the screen will be galvanically connected to network, on top it must be covered with good and thick insulation.The machine itself is assembled on a plastic board with a printed or hinged mounting. The board is placed in a plastic box of suitable dimensions, which prevents involuntary touching of any electrical point, since all of them are more or less dangerous, since they are connected to the network. For this reason, all soldering during adjustment should be carried out after disconnecting the machine from the mains (from the SA1 switch). The setting consists in choosing the sensitivity (with resistor R1), as already mentioned, and the shutter speed of the one-shot (with resistor R4), if necessary. By the way, the shutter speed can be increased to 1 min (at R4 = 820 kOhm) or more.

The maximum power of an EL1 lamp (or several lamps connected in parallel) can reach 130 W, which is quite enough for a hallway. Instead of the trinistor KU202N (VS1), it is permissible to install KU202M or, in extreme cases, KU202K, KU202L, KU201K or KU201L. Diode bridge (VD5) of the KTs402 or KTs405 series with the letter index Zh or I. If you use the bridge of the same series, but with the index A, B or C, the allowable power will be 220 watts. This bridge is easy to assemble from four individual diodes or two assemblies of the KD205 series. So, when using diodes KD105B, KD105V, KD105G, D226B, KD205E, you will have to limit the lamp power to 65 W, KD209V, KD205A, KD205B - ​​110 W, KD209A, KD209B - 155 W, KD225V, KD225D - 375 W, KD202KL , KD202M, KD202N, KD202R, KD202S - 440 W. Neither the trinistor nor the bridge diodes need a heat sink (radiator). Diode VD1 - any pulse or high-frequency (germanium or silicon), and diodes VD3, VD4 - any rectifier, for example, series KD102-KD105. Zener diode VD2 - for a stabilization voltage of 9 ... 1O V, suppose, series KS191, KS196, KS210, KS211, D818 or type D814V, D814G. Transistor VT1 - any of the series KT361, KT345, KT208, KT209, KT3107, GT321. Chips K561LA7 (DD1 and DD2) can be completely replaced by KM1561LA7, 564LA7 or K176LA7.

To improve heat dissipation, it is advisable to make a two-watt ballast resistor (R9) from four half-watt ones: with a resistance of 82 kOhm in parallel connection or a resistance of 5.1 kOhm in series connection. The remaining resistors are of the MLT-0.125, OMLT-0.125 or VS-0.125 type. For electrical safety, the rated voltage of capacitor C2 (preferably mica) must be at least 500 V. Capacitors C1-C3, C5 and C7 are ceramic, mica or paper-metal with any rated voltage (except C2). Oxide (electrolytic) capacitors C4 and C6 of any type with a nominal voltage of at least 15 V.

Automatic switch; is an electronic analogue of a conventional push-button switch with a latch that works every other time: one press - the lamp is on, another - the lamp is off. This machine is also built on only two digital microcircuits, but instead of the second K561LA7 microcircuit (four logic elements 2I-NOT), it uses the K561TM2 microcircuit (two D-flip-flops). It is easy to see that the triggers of the last microcircuit are installed instead of the single vibrator of the previous automaton. Let's briefly consider their work in the machine. The purpose of the trigger DD2.1 is auxiliary: it provides a strictly rectangular shape of the pulses applied to the counting input C of the trigger DD2.2.

If there were no such pulse shaper, the DD2.2 flip-flop would not be able to clearly switch over input C to a single state (when its direct output is high and its inverse output is low) or zero (when the output signals are opposite to those specified) state. Since the installation input S (setting "one") of the trigger DD2.1 is constantly fed a high level relative to its installation input R (setting "zero"), its inverted output is a conventional follower.

That is why the integrating circuit R3C4 sharply sharpens the fronts of the pulses taken from the capacitor C3. When the voltage on it is low (the WA1 antenna is not affected by hand), on the inverse output trigger DD2.1 is also low voltage. But as soon as the voltage on the capacitor C3 rises (bring your hand close enough to the WA1 antenna) to about 5 V, the low level at the inverse output of the DD2.1 trigger will change to a high one with a sharp jump. On the contrary, after the voltage on the capacitor C3 decreases (the hand was removed) below 5 V, the high level at the same inverted output will also abruptly change to a low one.

However, only the first (positive) of these two jumps is important for us, since the DD2.2 trigger does not respond to a negative voltage jump (at input C). Therefore, the DD2.2 trigger will switch to a new state (single or zero) whenever the hand is brought to the WA1 antenna at a sufficiently close distance. The direct output of the trigger DD2.2 is connected to the upper (according to the scheme) input of the element DD1.2, which is part of the electronic key. Acting on this input, the trigger is able to both open and close the electronic key, and with it the trinistor VS1, turning on or off thereby the EL1 lamp.

Note that the direct connection of the inverse output of the trigger DD2.2 with its own information input D ensures its operation in the desired counting mode - "every other time", but the integrating circuit C5R4 is needed so that after applying to the automatic power supply (for example, after turn off "plugs") trigger DD2.2 would be set to the zero state corresponding to the extinguished lamp EL1. As in the previous machine, the EL1 lamp can be turned on and conventional switch SA1. But it will be turned off if, on the one hand, the switch SA1 is open, on the other hand, the trigger DD2.2 is set to zero.

Another feature of this machine is that the pulse generator (10 kHz) is assembled according to a simplified scheme - only two elements (DD1.3 and DD1.4) instead of three. Instead of the K561TM2 (DD2) microcircuit, it is permissible to use KM1561TM2, 564TM2 or K176TM2. Other details in it are the same as in the previous one. It makes sense to reduce the dimensions of the antenna to 50...100 cm2 over the area of ​​the foil

This device is, as it were, an electronic analogue of a conventional button with a self-return: press it - the lamp is on, release it - it goes out. It is very convenient to provide such a contactless "button", for example, an easy chair, the light above which automatically lights up whenever you sit in it for reading, knitting or other outdoor activities. The difference between this simplified automaton and the previous ones is that it does not have a single vibrator or triggers. Therefore, the capacitor C3 is directly connected to the lower (according to the diagram) input of the DD1.2 element of the electronic key. If there is no “rider”, the antenna WA1 hidden under the upholstery of the chair does not prevent the occurrence of a pulse signal at the output of the element DD1.1, the capacitor C3 is discharged, and therefore the electronic key and the trinistor VS1 are closed, the lamp EL1 is off. When a vacationer sits in a chair, these pulses disappear, the capacitor C3 is charged and the electronic key allows the opening of the trinistor VS1, the light is on. Of course, these examples are far from exhausting all the possibilities of using light automata.