Energy-saving technologies in aerated concrete house: what, where, why? Energy efficient aerated concrete house. Construction and operation experience

The fact that energy should not be spent thoughtlessly and, if there is an opportunity to save resources a little, it is better to use it, humanity began to think not so long ago. In Europe, energy consumption has been monitored for several decades, but the broad Russian soul neglects such trifles. How much is that kilowatt? Here's another thing to worry about because of the pennies, tea, we won't get poorer. However, it is not only about money (although it is also about money), but that energy is obtained from processing various kinds fuel, and it is not infinite, and it would be great to spend our planet's reserves more slowly.

This does not mean that you have to freeze and deny yourself the most necessary. However, even when building a cottage, you can take this issue into account and provide for an economical heating system, as well as eliminate the main cold bridges and prevent global heat loss. A lot of energy goes through windows, ventilation and walls, so the main task of builders is to deal with these problem areas.

Why aerated concrete?

Aerated concrete is a cellular material of autoclave processing. The porous structure perfectly retains heat, while aerated concrete blocks do not condense and are cheaper than bricks, because the ingredients required for their manufacture are cheaper, and the production itself is faster and easier.

Only 10-15 cm thick masonry is enough so that the wall does not freeze through even in severe frosts. A good sign of quality is the following fact: even without additional insulation temperature inside the walls are only 4 degrees below the temperature in the room. The material itself keeps heat and does not allow freezing. If you take care of good thermal insulation, theoretically you can do without heating at all, especially if the house is only used occasionally.

Of course, such amazing results are achieved only if good specialists with solid experience. The quality of the material itself is also important. We recommend using dry autoclaved aerated concrete D 400 or D 500.

With a competent approach, it is possible to create such structures in which even windows will not be a source of constant heat loss - by the way, roller shutters or high-quality blinds also contribute to this.

Aerated concrete is also good because you can build anything from it: even a hangar, even a residential estate, even a garage with a chicken coop. It is not necessary to strongly reinforce the masonry: it is durable and reliable material, floors can also be depicted from aerated concrete, and this will significantly reduce costs.

Recall that traditionally the strongest and most solid foundation is laid in the project - just in case, all of a sudden, a citadel of whole-hewn stone will be erected on it. However, lightweight concretes have much less specific gravity than brick or their heavy counterparts, so the foundation can also be lightened, reducing construction time and the budget of the entire event. Of course, this decision must be made with an eye to the type of soil, but by default we believe that geodetic surveys are a mandatory item in your construction program.

When working with aerated concrete, you can create a completely closed warm contour of the cottage, and experts believe that any prudent homeowner should do this: firstly, a penny saves a ruble, and secondly, it's time to start thinking about our planet.

July 16, 2015

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Before you start laying, you need to understand what kind of material it is - cellular concrete, and understand its properties, strong and weaknesses. This approach will help you use it most effectively.

Insufficient insulation and thermal bridging

Lack of attention to cold bridges - distinguishing feature crews working the old fashioned way. The need to insulate some areas seems superfluous to the masters. It is in relation to the issues of insulation that one can distinguish professionals from low-level specialists.

Bridges of cold these are areas that have a much lower resistance to heat transfer than the rest of the structure. It is through them that significant heat loss occurs at home. Allocate places that require additional measures for thermal insulation.

Seams. If the rules for laying cellular concrete are not followed, they can become significant cold bridges. The thickness of the joints in the walls laid with the use adhesive solutions, should not exceed 2-3 mm.

Armopoyas. This is a reinforced concrete belt at the level of the ceiling, connecting the walls and giving the mount additional rigidity. Reinforced concrete is much denser than cellular concrete and has a higher thermal conductivity.

Therefore, in the project, the thickness of the armored belt and insulation should be calculated in such a way that it is possible to lay expanded polystyrene or mineral wool on the armored belt and close it from the outside.

Jumpers. They perform the same role as the armored belt and can be installed above window and doorways. They are produced in the form of U-shaped blocks, which are connected along the length, supported from below, a reinforcing cage is laid inside and poured with concrete. To insulate the lintel inside it, at the outer wall, before pouring concrete, you need to put a heater. If this element is mounted from ordinary rectangular blocks, then it is insulated in the same way as armored belts.

recesses. When using concrete elements with grips, the latter will be visible in the corners of the walls. They (as well as chips in blocks) must be repaired with glue, and not with ordinary cement mortar, since in such a case the "patches" will have a high thermal conductivity.

All these insulation measures are relevant when making single-layer walls; in two- and three-layer structures, the likelihood of cold bridges is much lower.

Savings on anchoring interface of external and internal walls

Sometimes contractors are not very responsible about the need to lay anchors when connecting external walls and internal partitions. At the same time, the correct pairing of structures is important not only in matters of stability, but also in terms of the formation of cold bridges.

Bearing walls of the same level must be made of blocks of the same type, laid on the same solution. Internal load-bearing partitions are often erected from products 10-15 cm thick simultaneously with outer walls and match them during the construction process.

But it happens that the partitions are laid out after the box at home is ready. This allows you to build them not only from cellular concrete, but also from other masonry materials. In every second or third horizontal seam of the walls that are built first, install fasteners where the partitions will be located according to the project.

Less reliable, but also valid option serves fastening fasteners to blocks. At the same time, it is impossible to allow a rigid connection of partitions and ceilings. To do this, an elastic sealant 1-2 cm thick is placed on the last row of masonry between it and the ceiling.

I receive a huge number of questions about the choice of material for the walls of a country house, so let's take a closer look at this issue and conclude that aerated concrete has no alternatives at all. This is the best material for load-bearing and enclosing structures of buildings of any number of storeys. If you want to get a "warm" capital house, then you simply have no options. And the most important thing is that an energy-efficient aerated concrete house can be comfortably operated even if you do not have a gas connection. And all this is possible without additional insulation!

In this article, we consider only capital stone houses. Naturally, there is frame technology construction, but we will consider it in a separate article.

Aerated concrete has made no less a revolution in construction technologies than, for example, geotextiles or extruded polystyrene foam. The history of aerated concrete begins in the 30s of the last century, so the material has already passed the test of time in various climatic regions of our planet. It is important to note that not any aerated concrete can be considered energy efficient, so it is very important to pay attention to the real characteristics from specific manufacturers.

This is the main negative that is spreading on the network. Aerated concrete produced in an artisanal way in violation of technology will not have sufficient strength and resistance to heat transfer. This means that it will not have any advantages over conventional bricks. Second important point is a mandatory observance of the technology when working with aerated concrete.

It has long been known that building with the observance of technology is not only cheaper, but also faster. Unfortunately, many prefer to break the technology, and then heroically overcome the difficulties that arise, losing not only time, but also money. After all, it is obvious that poor-quality material used in violation of technology will not lead to anything good.

So let's take mine as an example. own house which I built in 2012. It's capital Vacation home on a foundation slab with aerated concrete walls and a monolithic floor with a flat (green) roof. It was put into operation in 2014. For any person, it is important that the house is inexpensive to build and economical to operate. I am no exception here. Therefore, the most important criterion when choosing a material for walls is the resistance to heat transfer. After all, if the wall is “cold”, then I will simply heat the street. And this is an overexpenditure of energy and cold in the house (in my case, there is also the absence of main gas, plus the limit of electrical capacities allocated in SNT).

Therefore, I chose the best of all available technologies - single layer wall from YTONG aerated concrete with a density of D400 and a thickness of 375 mm. The laying was done strictly according to the technology with the obligatory sanding of each row and using special glue for thin-seam masonry (the smaller the thickness of the seam, the less heat loss). Naturally, I insulated the lintels above the windows and the door, as well as the perimeter monolithic floor. I also pay attention to the presence of quarters on window openings.

Outside, the wall is simply plastered with 10 mm thick cement insulating plaster and puttied with white cement (I still haven't found the time to paint the walls).

Inside, a similar story: the walls are plastered with a thin (6 mm) layer gypsum plaster, sealed and painted. Taking into account the fact that aerated concrete blocks have an almost perfect geometry, this gave no overspending of plaster on irregularities (for example, if the walls were made of bricks with cement joints 2 cm thick) and greatly simplified the work. Aerated concrete is very easy to process and for laying electrics, the wall can be pierced almost with a screwdriver.

Wallpaper, just painted walls or tiles (in the bathroom) are used as a finishing coat. Aerated concrete is also incredibly convenient in that it is very easy to hang something on it. Try, for example, hammering a nail into a brick wall in order to hang a picture. You won’t be able to do anything without an impact drill / puncher, and you can hammer a nail into aerated concrete with any tool at hand, and it can withstand a weight of several kilograms without problems (this is more than enough for a picture). They wanted to move the picture to a new place - they just pulled out a nail, and on the wall you will have an inconspicuous hole with a diameter of 1-2 mm. And in brick wall there will be a trace of a dowel with a diameter of 5-7 mm. If we are talking about stationary fastening of heavy objects, then everything is much simpler here. Especially when compared with hollow bricks, for which chemical anchors will have to be used. For aerated concrete, there are special screw dowels or universal dowels (both of which are sold at any hardware store) - I hang on such dowels outdoor unit conditioner (80 kg), storage water heater(90 kg), kitchen set, stairs to the roof and other heavy objects.

As a result, I got an ideal perimeter that reliably protects the internal volume of the house from the cold. Tests with the help of an air door showed that the house is practically airtight and, therefore, there are no gaps in the enclosing structures. The aerated concrete wall is plastered over the entire surface both outside and inside, which completely eliminates blowing through the seams. And this is the most direct energy savings.

Aerated concrete can be additionally insulated without any problems (if you suddenly decide to build a house beyond the Arctic Circle), or you can perform a more spectacular finish using facing bricks. But the most important advantage of aerated concrete is that it combines two important characteristics: compressive strength and thermal conductivity. Aerated concrete can be safely used in the load-bearing walls of five-story (!) Buildings, while it will have a significantly lower thermal conductivity than concrete or brick.

And here it becomes obvious that concrete or brick generally has no chance of being used in low-rise construction. Because it is long, expensive and cold. Let's take my house as an example and calculate the costs if I started building it out of bricks.

But before proceeding with the calculations, I want to show you a picture from a thermal imaging study (see the full report on the blog), which I did in January last year, when the temperature outside was below -15 degrees Celsius. Notice the house in the background. Now we are not interested in what it is built from (in fact, from cinder blocks and insulated with foam). We are interested in the fact that this house is not operated and is not heated all winter. And in the foreground you see my house, which is heated. And only by the windows “glowing” in the picture from the thermal imager, you can understand that this is so. Pay attention to uniformity aerated concrete masonry and the absence of any heat loss through the walls. For example, you can open Yandex image search and see how heated brick houses usually look. Here, my house practically does not stand out from the surrounding landscape.

Now let's move on to calculating the resistance to heat transfer. I will not load you with complex formulas, we will consider it simply and clearly. So, for starters, we take the initial data, and not anyhow, but the official test report, certified by the seal of the research center. Let me remind you that I used blocks with a density of D400 with a thickness of 375 mm.

And here is a graph of heat loss, which you need to strive for. It is clearly seen here that the heat loss of enclosing structures consists of three main things:

1. Windows and doors;
2. Walls;
3. Overlap (floor / ceiling).

At the same time, the coldest places in any house will always be windows and there is no escape from this, today best double glazing have a reduced resistance to heat transfer equal to 1.05. But the walls of houses built in the central region (Moscow region) should have a reduced resistance to heat transfer equal to 2.99 (m² ˚С) / W. And note that the maximum insulation should be at the ceiling.

But now we are not talking about windows and ceilings, but about walls. So, in order for our house to meet the current energy efficiency standards, the reduced heat transfer resistance of the walls must be at least 3.0. Let's use, for example, this calculator here and substitute the data from the above test report into it. And we'll get that

Heat transfer resistance of the building envelope [R] = 3.57

Okay, let's be realistic: let's take into account the heterogeneity of the masonry (seams), slopes and corners. Let the reduced resistance to heat transfer be equal to 3.28. And it's pure aerated concrete wall, without taking into account the additional layer of plaster inside and out. That is, in reality, the resistance to heat transfer will be slightly higher.

For example, let's take ceramic solid brick masonry with a density of 1800 kg / m³ on a cement-sand mortar. With a wall thickness of 375 mm, its heat transfer resistance will be only 0.62! This is almost 6 times "colder" than the masonry of aerated concrete blocks. That is, a brick wall equivalent in terms of energy efficiency should have a thickness of more than 2 meters. You yourself understand that this is nonsense and no one will build a wall of such thickness in low-rise construction. This means that you will have to build a brick wall in one or one and a half bricks, and then insulate it additionally. And after insulation, still think about how to fix it to the insulation top coat. That is, in this case, we complicate the construction process.

And the fact that one aerated concrete block (625x250x375 mm) is equal to 20 bricks (250x120x65 mm) in terms of volume, taking into account the cement joint, speaks best of all about the laboriousness of the masonry! And in order to lay 20 bricks, approximately 1.5-2 buckets of mortar will be required (if you work with aerated concrete, this amount of mortar is enough to lay more than 20 aerated concrete blocks). That's the whole economy brick building. That is, only in construction brick house you pay a lot.

But the most tin will begin during operation. Operate poorly insulated brick house, if you do not have an “unlimited” and cheap source of thermal energy (main gas), it will simply be impossible, because. you simply do not have enough allocated electrical power (standard 15 kW).

If the walls of your house fit into the current standards for resistance to heat transfer, then you can economically heat the stone without any problems. aerated concrete house with the help of electricity.

The conclusion is obvious - in the capital low-rise construction of alternatives for energy efficient aerated concrete simply no. At the same time, if we consider the final cost of enclosing structures, it turns out that such a solution is cheaper not only at the construction stage, but also during operation.

P.S. Of course, do not forget that the energy efficiency of a building is not only walls, but also windows / doors, foundations and ceilings (roofing). And naturally forced ventilation. Only when all conditions are met simultaneously can a house be considered energy efficient.

Do you have any questions? Ask them in the comments!

All publications about how this house was built can be found

An energy-saving house project was implemented in Chekhov, Moscow Region.

The house is up for sale. Priceenergy saving house is 7,500,000 rubles. The house is located within the city of Chekhov, a 20-minute walk from the center, 15 minutes from the forest, 250 meters from Pyaterochka and public transport stops. Nearby are schools, kindergartens, a sports complex, a plot of 5 acres, in the house:

4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a kitchen-living room with a bay area, a second living room with a bay area on the second floor, a pantry under the stairs, an autonomous sewage system "Poplar" connected to the drainage system for drainage technical water, water well, septic tank, where all the equipment is installed, electricity brought underground to the house, water outlet for summer use, water outlet to the bathhouse.

The house has a toilet, sink, sewer already working. There is a place for a bath, 2 parking spaces, paths, fir trees, pine trees, fruit trees, finished landscape work, a summer veranda, a place for a fireplace, a warmed 5-chamber glass pane profile, 3-chamber double-glazed windows. Inside, the house is plastered to look like a lighthouse, putty is made in 3 layers, the roof is insulated 20 cm (Knauf expanded polystyrene), the floor is 10 cm (Knauf expanded polystyrene for floors).

Detailed description of energy saving house:

The house is made of cellular concrete (aerated concrete), blocks 375 mm wide with a density of D 500., this is one of the best materials for the construction of energy-saving houses. The topic of energy-saving technologies is very extensive, so we will briefly dwell on the main points and directly talk about our house.

Lately, construction of energy-saving houses gaining popularity in Russia. It is understandable, the times of useless waste of energy, resources and time are passing. Buy energy saving house quite simple today, as more and more relevant objects began to enter the market. At construction of energy-saving houses , the main focus is on good insulation at home and minimizing heat losses, as well as energy storage in the house from external sources energy.

Average energy consumption indicators in everyday life:

Lighting 2-3%

Cooking 4-6%

Other home appliances (refrigerator, washing machine, etc.) 6%

Water heating 12%

Heating 73-76%

Of course, these indicators are averaged and are different for everyone, but you can’t argue with the fact that heating takes the bulk of the energy consumed in everyday life.

There is an opinion that houses built according to energy saving technologies limited in design solutions. This opinion is very doubtful and in reality it practically does not affect the exterior of the house, since the restrictions for constructive forms there are no special ones, the main condition is high-quality insulation at home in all possible structural elements(walls, roof, floors, windows, doors, ventilation, cold bridges, etc.).

In addition to heat conservation, energy-saving houses pay attention to the accumulation and use of solar energy, wind energy, and other possible options.

We tried to implement the project in a modern classical style with elements of Provence.

The main goal in the construction of an energy-saving house was:

1) Building a house with high energy-saving performance using modern, environmentally friendly high quality materials.

2) Compliance with all necessary norms, deadlines and requirements for the construction of these structures.

3) The use in building a house of such materials that enable the house to "breathe" and maintain the right microclimate.

4) Convenient zoning and layout of the space in compliance with the functionality of the entire space. There are no non-functional areas in the house.

5) The area of ​​the house was calculated for comfortable living of a family from 2-3 (with the prospect) to 5-6 people, without the construction of "empty" areas, which in reality are practically not used and are a lifetime liability for which you have to pay all your life, just like that.

6) Selection of a site within the city, with a convenient location, developed infrastructure, transport accessibility (but not closer than 200 meters to the road).

7) Selection of a site with the possibility of carrying out all the necessary communications.

8) The possibility of registration in the future.

9) The plot allows you to allocate a parking space for two cars.

10) Use of modern heating technologies (economical and easy to use).

The house was built according to the project. Most of the work was done with a margin of quality above the norm.

Stages of building an energy-saving house:

1 . Foundation in an energy-saving house.

When buying an energy-efficient home, this is the first thing to look for. Special attention so that in the future we will not be surprised by surprises in the form of cracks, etc.

The foundation is the foundation of the house, and we approached it thoroughly. When choosing a foundation, preference was given to the tape-pile. This is due to the reliability of the design and durability. The price of the foundation is significant, but it's worth it.

The tape pile foundation consists of metal piles with a diameter of 108 mm, with blades of 350 mm twisted to a depth of 2 meters (below the freezing depth in the Moscow Region 1.7 m).

The choice of a company that sells and installs piles was solid (since piles must be made very high quality, for a long service life, have good handling and all necessary protective layers. The seams must be factory, and without damage). From above, the piles are cut to the level and the cavity must be filled with high-quality concrete.

Next, the foundation is being prepared for the strip foundation (removal of soil and the installation of a sand cushion). For all piles, a reinforcing cage is made of 16 reinforcement according to the project (a bundle of the structure together to create a solid, solid foundation for the house).

When the concrete set and dried, they installed high-quality waterproofing. She lay down neatly, as the surface strip foundation was aligned with the lighthouse. Before pouring the foundation, all the necessary communications were brought into the house to the necessary places.

2. Installation of slabs on the 1st floor in an energy-saving house.

Next, plates were installed (PNO - lightweight). They withstand the same load as slabs 22 cm thick - 800 kg.m.kv. The choice of PNO slabs is due to the fact that it does not give an extra load on the foundation. The slabs were fixed to the foundation and the installation of cellular concrete began.

3. Installation of load-bearing walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house.

As mentioned above, for the energy-saving house, load-bearing wall blocks were chosen with a width of 375 mm and grade D 500. There are many reasons for choosing cellular concrete as the main material for building a house:

1. This is a modern and high-quality material that has all the necessary environmental standards.

2. Excellent energy-saving properties, due to the huge number of small pores in the material filled with air. And as we know, air is the best insulating material. The thermal insulation and isotropic properties of cellular concrete are the same both in the vertical and horizontal directions. In the cold season, the house keeps warm, and cool in summer.

3. The material has excellent geometry, is very convenient to work with, easy to process, cut, etc. (usually at major manufacturer producing high-quality products, real discrepancies in geometry up to 2 mm). Due to the possibility of easy processing of the material, it can be given any interesting design forms.

4. Cellular concrete "breathes", which is very important for creating the right microclimate in the house. It is highly valued in Europe and other developed countries.

In practice, the house was tested: 2 people spent the night in a small room on the 1st floor, the window with the door did not open during the night, there was no lack of air in the morning due to the slow air exchange and removal carbon dioxide. The lack of air is felt in houses with high tightness of the walls. Such houses should usually have good ventilation.

5. The material is durable, does not require any maintenance over time, does not lose its properties, does not age, does not rot, does not burn.

6. Has practically no shrinkage.

7. Very convenient for laying communications, electrics, etc.

8. The material is non-combustible, has high fire resistance even with small wall thickness.

9. High strength with low weight.

10. Good sound insulation performance.

11. Due to the precise geometry, the masonry joint is actually 1-2 mm, which eliminates heat loss through the joints and reduces the consumption of masonry mortar. Blocks are laid on the adhesive composition.

If you make a seam of 5 to 10 mm or more in a brick wall or a wall of 15-20 mm blocks, then total area masonry joints can be from 15 - 30% of the wall surface. And the masonry mixture does not high performance energy saving, so such structures must be additionally insulated.

12. Using this material, cold bridges can be avoided throughout the house if the construction technology is followed correctly. (This will make it possible to avoid condensation on the internal surfaces of the house during the cold season).

13. Thanks to proven construction technology and the availability necessary tool, the speed of construction of structures is very high.

14. Convenience for fasteners, in all wall surfaces.

15. No need for additional wall insulation. (And this is very significant).

Construction of the walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house:

When building walls, window openings must be strengthened. To do this, in the places of window openings in front of the last row of blocks, reinforcement is installed in 2 rows, so that it goes beyond the edge of the window opening by at least 500 mm in both directions. This prevents the formation of cracks under the window openings.

4. The first armored belt in an energy-saving house.

Having completed the installation of the last row of blocks on the ground floor, we assembled the formwork for the armored belt from aerated concrete. An armored belt in houses made of aerated concrete is required, and it must be solid around the entire perimeter of the house. This design will protect the house from bursting forces.

Many underestimate its necessity when taking independent solutions about its feasibility. Such a decision can only be made by an experienced architect who knows the specifics of working with aerated concrete.

The bay of the armored belt, a concrete structure, will be separated from external temperatures by a 10 cm cellular concrete partition, and this is not enough for us, so we installed extruded polystyrene foam between the armored belt and the external aerated concrete to insulate the structure.

5. Installation of floor slabs on the second floor in an energy-saving house.

Anchors made of reinforcement of 16 diameters were fixed in the armored belt, for attaching floor slabs to them. All floor slabs were installed according to the project. The slabs were fixed, through the reinforcement located in the slabs with a 10 cm welding seam, with the 16th reinforcement coming out of the armored belt.

6. Building the walls of the second floor in an energy-saving house.

Then we started building the walls of the second floor. The peculiarity of the second floor in our house is that it is full-fledged and in the places of the lowest connection of the walls with the roof, the distance from the floor to the roof is 2.25 meters.

As a rule, most attic floors have 50-90% of the full height, where you can comfortably move around.

7. The second armored belt in an energy-saving house.

Having completed the last row of the second floor, aerated concrete formwork is prepared and a heater is installed on the inside of the outer partition made of extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the armored belt. Additionally, studs are installed for attaching the Mauerlat. The studs according to the project were calculated 12 mm and the fixation should be in the armored belt.

This work was done with a margin in excess of the norm: the studs were installed with 18 diameters, the fixation goes in the armored belt and additionally two rows down into aerated concrete by 500 mm. All studs are about 1 meter long. The work was carried out for a large margin of stability under strong wind loads.

The armored belt is poured from concrete grade M 300.

Both armored belts pass over the window openings and are made in such a way that all concrete structures are hidden in aerated concrete, both from the front side and from the inside, and are insulated with expanded polystyrene. This is done in order to avoid cold bridges and condensation.

8. Installing a Mauerlat in an Energy Saving House.

After the concrete of the armored belt dried up and gained its strength, we proceeded to install the Mauerlat. All the board used to build the house was carefully treated with 2 layers of neomid and dried for about 2 months. Before installing the Mauerlat, high-quality waterproofing was installed on the armored belt.

For Mauerlat, a bar 150 X 150 mm was used. Holes were drilled under the studs, then the Mauerlat was installed and the nuts and washers were tightened. All fasteners used for the roof must be galvanized, which is resistant to rust.

9. The construction of gables in an energy-saving house.

While the armored belt dries up and gains its strength, pediments are erected on both sides. Needed here accurate calculations, for the correct and symmetrical erection of gables. The entire geometry of the roof depends on this.

The gables were erected using precisely set templates. This work requires special efforts, since almost all blocks must be cut, the angle and the necessary slope must be observed. Each pediment has a ventilation hole for air circulation in the attic part 300 X 300 mm.

10. Installation of a roof frame in an energy-saving house.

After completing the gables, we moved on to the installation truss system roofs. As a rafter, a board 200 X 50 X 6000 mm was used. We deliberately used a board height of 200 mm to perform the high-quality insulation we needed.

The truss system is the basis of the roof; its entire basis will depend on the clarity of this work. It is necessary to accurately make all the calculations, check all the diagonals. First, the rafters are installed on two different sides of the gables, then the entire roof frame is assembled along the cords.

Fastening to the Mauerlat is carried out using a special cutout in the rafter and two galvanized corners. Corners according to the project are 60 X 60 X 2 mm. We used with a margin of 100 X 100 X 3 mm. For fixing, yellow self-tapping screws, 12 mm studs with washers and nuts were used. The location of the rafters relative to each other was carried out in increments of 60 cm to strengthen the roof structure.

At the same time, the roof ridge was being installed. For the ridge, a beam 100 X 200 X 6000 mm was used.

11. Installation of waterproofing, counter battens and battens in an energy-saving house.

For the device of the correct "pie" of our roof, it is necessary to perform all the necessary work. To begin with, we choose high-quality waterproofing that suits all necessary requirements. We chose the Corotop Classic membrane. It has excellent characteristics and is able to protect the house from precipitation for up to six months, if metal tiles have not yet been installed. It has been tested in practice: several heavy rains have passed, the result is not a single drop passed inside.

It does not let moisture in (condensate from metal tiles, humid air, etc.), but it is able to remove excess moisture to the outside, this is similar to the structure of the skin. The membrane is installed with an overlap; for this, the membrane has the necessary drawings. Places of overlap are additionally glued with a special roofing double-sided adhesive tape.

Next, we install a counter-lattice for the required ventilation gap, a board 50 X 50 mm. After that, we proceed to the installation of the crate. For the crate, a board 25 X 100 X 6000 mm was used. Here, too, precise calculations are needed, checking the diagonals, calculating the pitch for metal tiles, etc. The fastening of the counter-lattice and the batten is carried out with 100 mm galvanized ruff nails.

12. Installation of metal tiles, snow retainers, ventilation outlets and a drainage system in an energy-saving house.

The choice of metal tiles was approached just as thoroughly. Chose in a large specialized store "Unikma". There is no place for savings and experiments :). The choice fell on the Finnish concern Ruukki, color PURAL MATT. The service life of this metal tile is 50 years. The sheets were made to order, solid.

At the same time, in necessary places, we cut in two Vilpe ventilation outlets of 125 mm each and one sewer outlet of 110 mm. We fixed the metal tile according to the fastening scheme, for reliable fixation and protection from gusts of wind.

The gutter system was chosen to be metal, as it is of better quality, does not fade in the sun, and is stronger. Installing snow retainers is a necessary security measure. Moreover, it is very important to establish high-quality, well fixed.

Snow loads can be very significant, and in addition to the huge amount of snow and ice that has fallen off the roof, snow retainers can be added to them.

13. Installation of windows, window sills and front door in an energy efficient home.

If we building an energy efficient house , so the windows must be appropriate. If you decide buy an energy-saving house Pay special attention to window structures.

The window profile is very warm, 5-chamber and three-chamber double-glazed windows. Glass, also chosen energy-saving. For effective insulation of double-glazed windows, from the front side, we performed the insulation of window openings from aerated concrete.

On both sides, the windows have a decorative lamination that matches the style of the house. Window sills have the same lamination.

The front door, ordered insulated with polystyrene foam.

14. Facade plastering and putty in an energy-saving house.

For high-quality protection of the facade of the house, it is necessary to carry out a series of consecutive works. Important for external works, use materials designed specifically for the facade. First, the surface is cleaned and primed. Next, we fill all the small chips with facade plaster. After that, apply with a spatula thin layer 2 - 3 mm facade plaster in 2 layers.

We do without standard plaster due to the fact that the walls were built according to the level and have a very even surface. Next, prime again and apply the facade putty in 2 layers. The work was carried out before the first frost with the addition of anti-frost additives. With the onset of the first negative temperatures, the work was postponed until spring.

15. Construction of partitions in an energy-saving house.

IN winter period, work began inside the house. For partitions, cellular concrete D600 grade 150 mm thick was used. Under the base of the wall, we lay the waterproofing and lay out the first row according to the level on the mortar. Next, the installation goes to the adhesive mixture.

Partitions must be connected to bearing walls special connections. In the upper part of the junction of partitions to the ceiling, it is necessary to leave expansion joint up to 2 cm, it must be foamed.

Naturally, partitions must be built with high quality, so that later, you do not have to spend much on the plaster mixture and additional work. We got the average thickness internal plaster 6 - 10 mm. The floors, after installing the partitions, were filled with self-leveling floor (preparation of the surface for laying polystyrene foam).

16. Installation of insulation in an energy-saving house.

The right choice of insulation and high-quality installation, one milestones in the construction of an energy-saving house. Before buy an energy-saving house , this factor is worth paying attention to most. The choice of expanded polystyrene was not accidental.

Firstly, expanded polystyrene retains heat better than other insulation based on glass wool, etc.

Secondly, there is no dangerous dust that causes allergies (used in fiberglass-based insulation, etc.). People often dismantle such roof insulation, as they absorb moisture over time and lose their effectiveness and volume. They have a plus, not flammability.

For insulation, we chose KNAUF expanded polystyrene, which does not burn, but only melts. This has been verified experimentally. And since we are talking about the resistance of materials to fire, we can assume that if there is a fire in the house and the surfaces of the walls, furniture, coatings, wooden structures roof, then no insulation will save you, whether it is prone to burning or not.

To do this, it is better to provide the necessary security measures. Of course, we do not consider cheap options for polystyrene foam, the composition of which may not be suitable for use in the home. Only high-quality material, with the necessary certificates and proven over the years.

Yes, polystyrene foam is more time-consuming to install, but the result is worth it. The thickness of the insulation on the roof, everywhere has a width of 20 cm. The installation took place in 4 layers, 5 cm each.

After installing each layer, all the cracks were thoroughly foamed and so on all 4 layers. Thanks to this, very high quality insulation was obtained.

From below, the insulation is insulated with a vapor barrier membrane. We have Corotop Classic waterproofing membrane, and we use it. Above, in attic, above the insulation, moisture-resistant OSB boards are installed to be able to move along the surface and protect the expanded polystyrene.

Slots, after installing OSB boards, are also foamed. Ventilation communications are laid, which are also well insulated.

To insulate the Mauerlat zone, it is necessary to make inserts from extruded polystyrene foam on the front side and properly foam all the cracks. On the inside there is a partition made of cellular concrete.

On the floor of the first floor, Knauf polystyrene foam for floors is laid.

It is denser and can be easily moved around without damaging it. Layer thickness 10 cm.

Thus, we insulated the whole house. The largest layer of insulation is concentrated on the roof, because through it, the most heat is lost. The house is designed in such a way as to minimize heat loss. Therefore, our house is called energy-saving.

This factor is given great importance. This is due to the fact that the most high flow in the maintenance of the house and other real estate, usually goes to heating. A house is built once, but it will take a lifetime to maintain.

We set up an experiment:

In the house the temperature was + 10 degrees, outside the temperature was minus 15-17 degrees. Everything heating appliances were turned off, a day later they measured and the temperature was + 8 degrees. Without heating, in cold weather, an energy-saving house with an area of ​​120 sq.m. lost only 2 degrees.

17. Plastering and puttying of internal walls in an energy-saving house.

The walls are primed, after drying, chips are filled. Next up is plastering. internal surfaces layer 6-10 mm, plaster mixture for internal works based on gypsum (Rotband Knauf). Before filling, it is necessary to additionally prime and allow it to dry. The putty is made in 3 layers.

18. Application of decorative plaster "bark beetle" in an energy-saving house.

For decorative plaster, we chose with the texture of "bark beetle", a filler of 2.5 mm. VGT plaster has excellent protective characteristics and creates a very durable coating without compromising air circulation.

The color was chosen according to the general style. The application of such plaster requires certain skills and experience, the application is carried out from edge to edge.

19. Installation of a blind area, paths and parking spaces in an energy-saving house.

For correct device, it is necessary to remove a layer of earth about 40 cm deep. After that, the base is filled with crushed stone and compacted.

From above, we fall asleep a layer of sand, which is moistened and well compacted. Next, it is imperative to install a mesh to prevent cracks and fractures. On all surfaces concrete structures, there is a slight slope to drain rainwater.

Also, the site provides a drainage system that removes excess water from the site underground. The paths and the blind area have a width of 100 cm, not only for the removal of precipitation, but also for the convenience of moving along them. On the site, conveniently located check-in for cars.

For the convenient location of two cars, the site is concreted, while you can move freely, cars do not block the passage. It is possible to accommodate larger vehicles.

There is a concreted barbecue area. Barbecue made in the same stylistic direction. For a good device drainage system and leveling the site, 10 cubic meters of crushed stone and 40 cubic meters of sand were used.

20. Planting a lawn on the site of an energy-saving house.

To arrange a lawn, it is necessary to create a fertile black soil layer of about 10 cm. Chernozem is leveled over the site with a slight slope to drain water and match the general landscape of the site.

For planting, used a low-growing lawn. On the site there are also: 6 pines, 3 Christmas trees, 2 cherries, one plum, small raspberry bushes. For gardening, a plot is provided behind the house. We basically do not use any chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, etc. We are firmly for healthy lifestyle life and this aspect is not indifferent to us.

21. Erection summer veranda in an energy efficient home.

The summer veranda is made in modern style, mixed with Provence, artificially aged, timber 150 X 150 mm and 100 X 100 mm. All lower parts have reliable protection. They underwent a two-time treatment with neomid, then a two-time treatment with bituminous mastic.

The upper parts of the veranda were treated with neomid, mordant and 2-time treatment yacht varnish. On the veranda, there is a table made of solid pine, 100 mm thick, in the same style, with the addition of real male brutality.

The house has a place under the fireplace, on the ground floor in the kitchen-living room. The chimney must pass through the wall behind the fireplace, under the stairs and through the wall to go outside, then rises to the roof.

In such a house, it is not necessary to conduct gas, since it keeps heat very well. If the fireplace is on during the winter, the energy consumption will be quite insignificant. The most modern heating system was planned in this house, infrared with adjustable temperature sensors. Infrared film installed under drywall.

If the house is well insulated, then the system works only 10-15% of the time per day, and this ensures low consumption. If you understand and see the facts, then gas is necessary if the house is poorly insulated. In winter, electricity bills are significant.

But this is not a problem either, gas has already been brought to neighboring houses, the pipe runs 1 meter from the fence, if desired, it can be connected.

22. Buy an Energy Saving House

If you decide to buy an energy-saving house, in our opinion, the advantage is obvious, the price is the same as that of similar ones, and the maintenance is much more profitable. And this is not only in winter, in summer air conditioning is practically not needed. One of the main tasks in the construction of an energy-saving house was the preservation affordable price to the object. It seems to us that we have accomplished this task. Many believe that the price of such houses will be exorbitant, we tried to dispel these doubts and create an object in an affordable price segment.

E energy saving house price is 7,500,000 rubles, this is a good price one-room apartment in Moscow. :)

As a gift from our studio, we give free development of a design project for this house.

Sincerely, Design Studio Mira-Style.

Tel: 8 495 507 91 56

Email: [email protected]

It is clear that everyone wants to build a house cheaply and for centuries. But any material has both positive and negative qualities. Brick and concrete - strong, durable, but expensive and long. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, but requires regular maintenance and is unsafe in terms of fire. Etc. What to choose? More and more developers are opting for aerated concrete.

Created at the beginning of the last century, this material is popular all over the world. Extensive experience in the construction and operation of buildings from aerated concrete blocks has been accumulated.

Many advantages:

• inexpensive compared to other materials,
• good thermal insulation,
• good soundproofing,
• frost resistance,
• technological in construction,
• fireproof,
• environmentally friendly,
• easy to process
• ideal block geometry,
• minimum labor costs for finishing,
• wide architectural possibilities,
• saving money on heating.

Let's take a closer look at this last point.

Recently, energy saving has become not just a fashion trend, but vital necessity. Building an energy-efficient economy house means saving a significant part of financial resources in the future, including on heating. But for this, the walls of the house must be built from a material with good thermal insulation properties. This is where autoclaved aerated concrete comes to the rescue.

The composition of aerated concrete blocks includes quartz sand, cement and a blowing agent, which creates spherical pores, thereby increasing the thermal insulation properties.

For added strength and thermal insulation properties aerated concrete blocks undergo the process of autoclaving - processing in a special oven with high pressure and a temperature of about 180-200 ° C.

Products from cellular concrete are one of the most effective and inexpensive wall materials.

Before deciding what to build a house from, we will formulate the main requirements for our future home:

• The house must be warm.
• Living in it should be comfortable.
• The house must be fireproof.
• Construction costs should be kept to a minimum.
• The house must be durable.
• The house must be beautiful.

Now analyze which of these qualities your home will have if it is built from various materials and make your final choice. If the analysis is carried out soberly and you do not impose any unusual requirements on your home, your choice with good reason may be autoclaved aerated concrete.

Of course, each developer has his own requirements for the future home, but the main ones in any case will be savings and durability.

Saving

By using autoclaved aerated concrete, you can significantly reduce your construction and maintenance costs.

• There is no need to use additional thermal insulation - a wall with a thickness of 40 - 50 cm provides thermal protection that meets modern requirements.
• Due to the smaller mass of the walls, the costs for the installation of foundations, reinforcing cores are reduced, and the consumption of reinforcement is reduced.
• Significantly reduced costs for Finishing work. Due to the fact that aerated concrete blocks have a high accuracy of geometric dimensions, and due to the use of special glue for masonry, the walls do not require plastering: it is enough to putty and the wall is ready for painting or wallpapering.
• The labor intensity of masonry and the time for erecting walls are reduced several times - one block replaces up to 30 bricks, aerated concrete is very easy to process.
• Transport costs are reduced.
• The use of autoclaved aerated concrete for construction in seismic areas, such as the Irkutsk region, is very important. Due to the small mass of the walls, the load on the building as a whole during an earthquake will be less.

Durability

Application history cellular concrete has been around for about 100 years, and over such a long period, the material has shown itself to be effective and durable - houses built from it still stand today and, apparently, will stand for a very long time. In Russia, aerated concrete has been actively used since the 50s, for example, in St. Petersburg (then Leningrad). Since then, about half of all housing there has been built from autoclaved aerated concrete. In the Irkutsk region, aerated concrete blocks are produced at two plants: Stroykompleks (Angarsk) and Sayanskgazobeton. All products are manufactured using state of the art equipment. german technology from selected mineral raw materials.

Typical projects of economy class houses made of aerated concrete

The use of aerated concrete blocks allows you to actually build economical houses- small in size, warm, comfortable and, most importantly, energy-saving.

Here are some popular projects of economy class houses made of aerated concrete.

This small cottage created for suburban construction and, despite its compactness, is very convenient. The location of all rooms almost at ground level connects the interior of the house with external environment. The layout is so rational that not a single centimeter of space is wasted, everything is used for its intended purpose.

This compact and very expressive house immediately attracts attention with both a laconic and stylish facade, and a very rational and convenient layout premises. The kitchen and living room are a single space, and from the hall there are separate entrances to the bedrooms and bathroom.