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Wall screed: step by step instructions. How to make a screed of the walls of a brick house with your own hands How to make a screed at home with fittings with your own hands

A crack in a building is not only unaesthetic, but also dangerous. After all, a crack on the outside is only a consequence, and the cause is deeper - these are cracks in the foundation itself, and this is a direct path to the accident rate of the house and its further destruction. Often there is no desire or opportunity to build a new building, so a way was devised to preserve an existing building - screeding the house with fittings. But before you start repairing, you need to understand all the nuances. Screed at home the price of work depends on their complexity and, of course, the cost of expensive materials. All this will help you calculate the builder who will perform this work. The screed of a private house with corners can be done independently, which will lead to significant savings. Buy in advance all the materials that require it, but also consider that certain skills are needed for the foundation that needs to be strengthened.

A screed at home with fittings must be done with a fairly serious knowledge of welding and calculation of the required diameter of the fittings. Its size is selected depending on the degree of destruction, the number of storeys of the house and its size. But experts also take into account the roof, its shape and coverage, the type of foundation, soil, and even the region of residence. The layman may not take into account all these nuances, and the price of a screed at home with fittings, which is not so great, is a serious matter and let professionals deal with it.

If the crack has gone in some small sections of the house, then it is advisable to lay them out again before the screed of the walls of the house with fittings is completed. Particularly loaded areas can be pulled together with thicker, reinforced reinforcement. For the implementation of the screed at home with fittings, not so many building materials are needed: the fittings themselves of the required diameter, studs corresponding to the size and section of the fittings, washers and nuts.

The technology for installing the reinforcement is quite simple - stops for the bar are welded on the corners, the level should be different for each wall, this is done in order to avoid the abutment of the studs and nuts. The resulting corners are attached to the corners of the house, then studs are threaded into the stops, washers are put on them and nuts are screwed on. With the help of nuts, the screed is carried out at home.

When screeding the house with fittings, you should not immediately tighten the nuts too much, do it gradually, especially since periodically, about once every six months, the nuts must be re-tightened. The cost of a corner for a screed at home can be found on the Internet in order to navigate its ranges.

After the work was done, the final stage remained - priming and painting. House screed, the prices of which differ depending on the selected fittings, will in any case be an economical option for you. After all, cracked walls are much easier to repair than to rebuild. The cost of pulling together a cracked house will help determine the master that will work on its repair.

If the cracks are very large and deformation occurs in different directions, then the screed of the house with reinforcement will not be able to completely eliminate the defects, it is designed to reduce lateral forces, but in order to completely fix the house, it is necessary to strengthen and strengthen the foundation.

How much does a house screed cost?

Screed at home with fittings, the price of which depends on the professionalism and quality of the work of the performers. These repairs are a good and reliable solution for repairing small cracks and have been widely used in practice.
But do not forget that self-pulling at home requires serious knowledge in welding, so if this knowledge is not available, then it is better to trust a specialist to carry out all the planned repairs.

Every year, new types of construction work appear. For example,…

Reinforcement is a collection of interconnected particles and elements, which, together with a material such as concrete, are perceived in reinforced concrete structures as beams that stretch the stress. Reinforcement is also used to increase the strength of concrete in columns.

Reinforcement elements are divided into rigid (corners, channels, rolling I-beams) and flexible (rods of periodic and smooth profiles, as well as knitted or welded frames and meshes).

Consider the classification of types of reinforcement.

Depending on the purpose, fittings are:
- working (the section is assigned according to the calculation, the forces are perceived in the particles of the main load);
- constructive (distribution fittings that perceive shrinkage / expansion, exposure temperature);
- assembly (set to combine the structural and working parts); - anchor (embedded parts).

Depending on the orientation in the design:
- transverse reinforcement, which actively prevents the formation of cracks from emerging stresses near the supports and connects concrete from the compressed zone to the tension zone with the reinforcement;
- longitudinal reinforcement, completely perceiving tensile stresses, preventing the formation of cracks in the stretched zones of the structure.

Depending on the conditions of use, fittings are:
- unstressed;
- tense.

In prestressed prestressed concrete structures, prestressed reinforcement is exclusively operational.

There are five options for contacts between reinforcement and concrete:
— contact with concrete structures by friction;
- connection on shear bonds;
- adhesion (connection process when concreting a steel reinforcing element);
- interaction of cement mortar and steel reinforcement at the electrochemical level;
- compression of reinforcement with concrete after its shrinkage.

The wall of the house burst, the corner moved away, the foundation burst - a house screed is needed. If the screed is not done, then this will lead to serious consequences in the future.

You can entrust the screed at home to professionals, or you can do this type of work yourself. There is nothing military and impossible in this. This requires, first of all, a qualified welder, theoretical training and time for a thorough analysis.

The dimensions of rolled metal for the screed should be selected depending on the dimensions of the structure to be tightened, as well as depending on the degree of damage (cracks) that has occurred. So for a one-story building with dimensions of 6 × 6 meters and minor cracks, it will be enough to install 63 mm corners, reinforcement or a rod Ø 16 mm (a strip is also used). Accordingly, with an increase in dimensions, it is necessary to select a more durable rolled metal.

If your corner of the house has moved away significantly, then it may be necessary to disassemble it and lay it out again before performing the screed.

At problematic corners, you can put a more durable corner or simply strengthen the corner by welding another corner into it.

Also, studs, washers and nuts are needed to perform the work (sold both as a set and separately). The diameter of the stud must not be less than the diameter of the reinforcement. If you are using not reinforcement, but a rod, then you can save on the purchase of studs by cutting threads on the rod. The thread is cut with the help of a lerka (lerka, progoka - a tool for cutting external threads). The stud is overlap welded to the bar.

Next, we go directly to the work. On each metal corner we weld stops for the bar from below and from above. It can be a piece of pipe with an inner diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the rod. For one wall, the stops should be welded at the same height, for the other, a little higher or lower, so that the studs and nuts that extend beyond the corner do not rest against each other.

Further easier, we install the prepared metal corners on the corresponding corner of the house. We thread the studs into the stops. We put a washer on the studs on the reverse side of the stop and wind the nut (for several turns of thread). If necessary, the bars are welded together with an overlap of at least 7 cm.

After collecting all the metal structures, we will entrust the manufacture of metal structures to specialists from the METAKON company, we tighten the nuts from all sides. It should be understood that the house will not shrink at one time, therefore, you need to pull the nuts moderately. The nuts must be tightened once a quarter.

Then we prime and paint all the resulting beauty.

Even after screeding the house, the house can “walk”, as we have prevented only efforts directed to the sides. Although the corners and walls of the house may still move up and down. To eliminate this, it is necessary to strengthen and insulate the foundation of the house.

Often, cracks that appear in private homes can raise many questions and significantly spoil the mood of their owners. As a rule, this means that mistakes were made during the construction phase, as a result of which cracks form.

But do not immediately panic, because the situation can be saved. Initially, you will need to establish the reason why the crack occurred, and only then you can use a special screed at home.

The main cause of wall cracking is foundation shrinkage.

All the reasons that will be given in the table accelerate the formation of cracks in houses. The main factor by which such a flaw occurs is the drawdown of the foundation of the building. If certain circumstances are taken into account, then cracks can be avoided, and they will have a minimum size. So, the reasons and descriptions for them, for which damage appears, are given in the table:

Cause	Description	Problem Solving Methods
No bonding materials between bricks	This happens if another building or room is already attached to the finished house. As a rule, it is the extensions that begin to crack, as they begin to move away from the main building.	If the extension has moved away and no longer moves, you can repair the crack with putty. The second method of solving the problem is a screed at home. To do this, metal corners 10x10 cm are installed in the corners of the house, a rod is fixed between them and tightened with nuts.
Lack of bonding materials	If mistakes were made during construction and there is not enough mortar between the bricks, then after the foundation has set in the building or extension, a crack may occur.	A screed similar to that described above will help solve the problem.
Technological violation of brick laying	A crack can go along the seam of the mortar, while the brick will remain intact. In other words, the crack found a weakness in the building and began to appear.	Most likely, it will not be possible to solve such a problem and you can only close the crack with a mortar. The problem is that during construction, the brick was not wetted or placed on the mortar without pressing down, this all makes the hitch weak and fragile.
Appearance of a corner crack	As a rule, a problem arises in the corners of buildings if there is a lot of weight and a lot of force is exerted on the foundation. The problem lies in insufficient reinforcement of the corners or the lack of a bundle.	A screed or strengthening the foundation can solve the problem.

Having studied the main causes and features of damage, we can conclude that in such cases, the only solution would be to tighten the house. Of course, this method is not very aesthetic, but reliable.

Cracks in the finish of a building do not always indicate damage to the walls. You should make sure that the damage has affected the bearing materials.

Basic rules for screeding houses

Steel corners

In an already finished building, a screed is necessary to prevent the appearance of new cracks, as well as to ensure that the damage that has already appeared does not increase. The technology has proven itself well today. For a house screed with dimensions of 6x6 meters and a height of 3 meters, the following materials will be needed:

Steel corners 10x10 cm - 4 pcs. 3 m.
Rods in diameter from 16 mm - 48 m.
Thick-walled pipe, the diameter is similar to rods - 1.5 meters long.
Threaded studs for rods - 16 pcs.
Nuts and washers - 16 pcs.

Threaded studs

To pull the house, you need to install metal corners at the corners of the building. Sections of thick-walled pipes are pre-welded on them. Studs are fixed to the rods, and after that the whole structure is tightened with nuts. For the reliability of the whole structure, some rules should be taken into account:

For clarity, it is worth looking at the screed of the house from cracks in the walls in the photo. This will allow you to deal with the fasteners and the design as a whole:

After carrying out the work, the house can be ennobled with finishing materials, for example, siding, but leave access to the nuts to tighten them.

If the damage is small, then other means can be used. To do this, use the following tips:

In case of small damage, which does not exceed 5 mm in width, you can use ordinary putty.
If the damage is up to 1 cm, then you will need to use a solution based on sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 3.
For large and deep damage, it is recommended to seal the crack with foam, and then apply a cement-sand mortar.

The most common reason why cracks occur is the overload of the roofs of private houses, due to incorrect calculation of the snow load.

Before covering up the damage, you will need to remove dirt, dust and other debris. It is also recommended to wet the area to be repaired for better adhesion of materials. For more information on how to make a screed at home, see this video:

If a crack begins to appear on the house, then you can be sure that it will not disappear. A screed or strengthening the foundation will help solve the problem. If the work is done correctly, damage will not increase, and reliable protection will be provided to the house for decades to come.

If it so happens that a crack has started along the load-bearing wall or foundation - this is not a sentence yet, it's just time to apply "global" (radical) measures to strengthen the entire structure. We will talk about the simplest and most popular methods for maintaining the integrity of a building in this article.

Note. The article uses conditional terminology.

When purchasing a ready-made house, the new owner in all cases is dealing with a pig in a poke. And it doesn't matter if it's a new building or a renovated old one. Builders build and repair cottages and private houses in a fantastically short time, which always affects their stability and durability. Regardless of the reasons for the appearance, a crack is a frequent and faithful companion of stone buildings and structures. We will talk about the most difficult cases of these unpleasant and dangerous defects - structural cracks, which serve as signals about the appearance of mobility of load-bearing elements. To stop the development of a crack, you should stop the movement and fix the elements, and then repair and "mask".

Note. A crack in the finish does not always mean the presence of defects in the wall material. You should verify that it is the carrier material that is damaged by removing part of the finish and exposing the defective area for observation.

Let's leave the theory and consider the three most common cases of the appearance of the mobility of elements: collapse, blockage and separation of the extension.

collapse

In the case of collapse, the walls and corners have a visual deviation from the vertical outwards, sometimes in waves. Walls can also be wave-like deformed or deviated by the entire plane. In most cases, this is accompanied by the appearance of cracks in the upper corners of door and window openings.

According to the degree of coverage, the collapse can be:

Complete. All load-bearing outer walls are deformed to varying degrees.
Incomplete (partial). Some walls are deformed.

In both cases, even if only one wall collapses, we recommend applying a preventive screed on all sides to prevent the development of movement on other walls.

Depending on the degree of collapse of the walls, measures of different depth of impact are used. We will conditionally divide the degree of collapse into three categories - light, medium and strong, and tell you what to apply in each of the cases.

Easy collapse

signs

The wall heads are noticeably deformed in the area up to 1/3 of the wall height (without the height of the foundation). Cracks at the corners of openings in 50% of cases. The remaining sections of the walls and foundation are normal (without cracks, deformations).

Cause

It arises due to the unreliability or absence of an armored belt, roof overload, during the construction of an attic floor on old walls.

Note. The most common mistake leading to roof overload is unaccounted for snow load.

Elimination Method

In this case, it is reasonable to use a steel mono-clip (hereinafter referred to as the clip) on the corner stops for wall screeding. In this case, as in all cases of using various clips, the rods will pass from the outside along the facade of the load-bearing walls, standing in the shape of a rectangle. Sometimes it is necessary to make technological openings for rods in the walls of extensions.

What you need:

Steel corner 100x100 mm (minimum 75x75) - 4 m.
Pipe 1 inch - 1 m.
Threaded stud 20 mm - 4 m.
Nuts and washers for studs.
A circle (steel bar) with a diameter of 20 mm or a strip of 40x4 mm - the length of the perimeter of the house.
Welding, painting.

Note. It is undesirable to use reinforcement for rods, because it is not designed for outdoor work and is subject to corrosion.

How to make a corner stop: on a steel corner 100x100 mm long, equal to the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the window openings plus 20%, pipe sections 150 mm long are welded.

The number of stops is equal to the number of corners (4).

Work order:

Rods (strips) are welded into two continuous lashes with a length along the walls of the house minus 200 mm (per tightening stroke).
Then, studs with a free end of 200 mm are welded at the ends of the lashes.
The pins are threaded into the tubes and the lashes are welded together in the middle.
The entire structure is assembled on the ground and fixed at the required height.
The nuts are tightened to a state of tension.

Attention! When using steel clips and ties, remember that they are designed to fix walls. An attempt to return the walls to their original state can result in breaches and sagging areas.

The design of the steel clip may vary. For example, in the case of wave-like deformations, a channel can be used as one, several or all four rods. Installation will be more difficult, but the entire load from the wall will be evenly distributed over the rigid channel.

Average camber

signs

All signs of light collapse extend to the level of 50% of the wall height (excluding the foundation). The probability of cracks in the corners and boundaries of openings is 80%.

Cause

Weak armored belt. Absence of a bunch of corners and masonry in the material of the walls, high wear of the material, overload.

Elimination Method

In these cases, a solid corner clip is used. It is arranged similarly to a mono-clip, but along the entire height of the wall and has more screed belts. With an average collapse, it is recommended to arrange three belts.

In all cases, the circle can be replaced with a 10x40 mm steel strip.

Attention! Welds must be of good quality (they hold the load). Overlap - 250 mm.

strong collapse

signs

All signs of medium and light, but at a level of more than 50%. In the vast majority of cases, it is accompanied by the appearance of deep, sometimes open, cracks along the walls and foundation.

Cause

Most often deformations of the base or foundation in combination with the causes of light and medium collapse. May be accompanied by partial destruction of the foundation.

Elimination Method

For repair, a solid corner clip and a retaining wall (support) or a foundation retaining belt are used.

Retaining wall or support - part of the reinforcement belt applied to the deformed area.

A retaining belt is a repair structural element designed to reinforce existing foundation walls along their entire length. It is used when it is necessary to strengthen the foundation. Material - reinforced concrete.

Support device. Consider the example of a corner section. A solid belt is arranged in a similar way.

First you need to determine the size of the backwater. If we had to resort to such drastic measures, it means that it is too late to calculate the load, especially since the existing foundation remains in place. Therefore, we simplify the calculations in the direction of increasing the margin of safety. The thickness of the backwater should be 50% of the thickness of the foundation wall, but not less than 400 mm. If possible, the bottom of the support and the foundation should be on the same level. The optimal ratio of the above-ground part to the underground is 1 third above ground, 2 thirds underground.

Attention! The reinforcing bars at the corners must be solid (curved at 90°). The minimum side of the corner support is equal to three thicknesses of the support.

Work order:

We dig out the damaged area and clean the trench. We clean the foundation wall from oils and organics, the remnants of waterproofing.
We drill holes with a diameter of 18 mm into the foundation wall to a depth of 200 mm in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm.
We drive in reinforcing pins with a diameter of 16 mm and a length equal to the thickness of the backwater plus 200 mm (driven into the wall) minus 40 mm (protective layer).
We tie the working reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm to the pins with a knitting wire in increments of 200 mm.
We make U-shaped clamps from 10 mm reinforcement according to the dimensions of the beam frame (support) 600x360x600 mm (blank length 1600 mm) and install them in 200 mm increments.
We set the formwork to size.
We lay concrete (factory or prepared on site) with vibration.
After the concrete has set (3 days), we remove the formwork and apply waterproofing.
We produce backfilling of soil with tamping and spilling.

Support reinforcement: 1 - foundation; 2 - working L-shaped rods Ø 16 mm; 3 - formwork; 4 - U-shaped clamps Ø 10 mm; 5 - rods driven into the foundation, Ø 16 mm

The cost of the device 1 running. m of support 400 mm thick, 600 mm high in the production of concrete on site:

Name	Unit rev.	Qty	Unit price, rub.	Total cost, rub.	Note
Armature 16	linear m	20	30	600	Wall pins and working rods
Armature 10	linear m	10	20	200	U-shaped clamps
knitting wire	kg	0,5	200	100	Binding of all frame elements
Concrete	cube m	0,25	1000	250
Waterproofing	sq. m	1	20	20
Formwork costs	sq. m	1	100	100	Self-tapping screws, nails, boards
Additional expenses	—	—	300	300	Disks, drill, etc.
total material				1570	Depends on local conditions and contract
Work				1000
Total material and work				2570

obstruction

The walls are piled into the building. It can be complete or partial (incomplete). In different degrees of deformation (light, medium, strong), one method of stopping is used.

Note. To repair the blockage, it will be necessary to carry out welding work indoors, which is most often associated with a major overhaul of the entire building. Take care of fire safety.

Full blockage

sign

Three or more walls (to varying degrees) are littered inside the building.

Cause

Weak armo-belt, wear of material, violation of technology during construction (weak mortar, lack of reinforcement of corners, etc.).

Elimination Method

Rigid spacer self-supporting steel cage (frame) on a through fastening.

What you need:

Perforator with drill 18-20 mm.
Channel 50x100-150 - length equal to the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced.
Steel plate 200x200x3-4 mm (up to 300x300).
Reinforcement 16 - 3 wall thicknesses per linear meter of the frame.
Good welding (tension), coloring.

Operating procedure:

Determine the perimeter of the walls to be reinforced. If necessary, we punch technological holes (for the channel) in the partitions.
We break each wall into steps close to 600-700 mm (but no more). We retreat ½ step from each corner.
We drill through holes 18-20 mm.
We weld reinforcement pins perpendicularly onto steel plates with a length equal to the wall thickness plus 100 mm.
We install the resulting anchors in the holes with the plate facing out.
Trying on the inside of each channel, mark it under the holes.
We burn holes in the channel for fittings by welding.
We paint the outer shelf of the channel with a primer (it will adhere to the wall).
We install the channel on the pins in the holes.
We weld the pins in the holes.
In the same way, we install the continuation of the channel.
When the entire perimeter is installed, we weld the channel to each other along the joint and make welded overlays from reinforcement 16 - 2 per joint with an overlap of 300 mm.
We strengthen the corners in any way possible (for welding).

An ideal option for such a clip is if it is then closed by a false ceiling. Then you can arrange diagonal traction. If a false ceiling is not expected, we close the bus with a box.

Attention! The plates on the outside and the fittings welded to them, passing inside the wall, are a strong cold bridge and it will destroy the wall with condensate. Be sure to insulate the plates, and preferably the entire wall.

Partial blockage

sign

One or two walls are littered.

Cause

The walls are located close to a busy roadway (with a tram). Rinse with atmospheric water.

Elimination Method

The device of a partial clip according to the principle of continuous. The side of the interrupted corner is equal to one third of the length of the littered wall, but not less than 1.5 meters.

The device of a partial inner cage: 1 - a wall with a blockage; 2 - fittings with a plate; 3 - channel 100x50x4 mm

With combined collapses / blockages (when the walls diverge in different directions), the inner frame (first of all) and the outer screed (secondary) are used together. In severe cases, all amplification options are used at once or their combinations.

Calculation of the cost of 1 linear meter of the inner clip:

mirhat.ru

The annex has moved away

The main factor in the masonry divergence is the deformation of the foundation. Everything else is nothing more than a consequence.

With cracks that have arisen at the junction of the extension with the main house (namely, this is the problem people face most often), the connection between the walls erected at different times is broken. You can help here in several ways.

See also: How and how to close a crack in a brick wall of a house

If the rift doesn't expand anymore, it's enough:

clean from dust and poorly adhering solution;
primed well;
fill with fresh cement to the full depth.

Usually such a “treatment” is enough for several years, but subsequently the crack will definitely manifest itself.

The second option is much more reliable. Here the screed is made. To do this, metal corners (up to 100 by 100 mm) are mounted at the corners of the extension, and thick steel strips with holes inside the house. Then they are connected with rods with threaded ends and tightened with nuts.

bad link

If the brick was not laid in the correct pattern, then the bond between the rows is rather weak. This, however, does not mean that the building will necessarily crack, however, if the foundation is deformed, then the fault will form precisely in a weak place. In such a situation, the entire defective wall is screeded.

Other technology violations

First of all, they are evidenced by the gap in the masonry clearly along the seam. In this case, the blocks always remain intact. More often this problem is caused by:

poor wetting of brick surfaces;
insufficient pressing to the solution;
improper preparation of the masonry mixture (little cement).

If mistakes were made when calculating the foundation or the house turned out to be heavier than planned, then cracks often form in the corners of the building. However, the lack of additional reinforcement of this part of the structure also leads to this.

Here, one screed will not be enough, since it does not fix the main problem in any way - you will have to further strengthen the foundation. You should not refuse this if you want to continue to live in the house for many years.

A responsible homeowner should tie down the house just in case as a preventive measure immediately after construction is completed. With this approach, the occurrence of cracks is reduced to zero.

If the trouble in question nevertheless happened to a mansion in which people already live, then this method will not only slow down, but also stop the process of destruction.

First of all, prepare:

4 wide (100 by 100 millimeters) corners, whose length corresponds to the height of the walls;
reinforcement or a round bar with a cross section of at least 16 mm and a length equal to two perimeters of the building;
up to one and a half meters of thick-walled ½ inch pipe;
threaded studs with a diameter of 16 mm;
16 washers and nuts.

First of all, cuts are cut through the outer plaster, and removed from the corners. If this is not done, then later it will not be possible to disguise the metal ties.

The rest of the work is done in the following order:

150 mm pipe sections are welded to the corners on both sides;
blanks are installed at the corners of the house;
trimmed studs (20 cm) are welded to the fittings;
the latter is inserted into the pipe and fixed with nuts.

If a smooth rod (circle) is used, then it can be threaded with a die, then there is no need for studs.

To tighten the nuts more tightly, you can heat the fittings with autogenous - the metal will expand, and then cool and shrink.

When the house is planned to be subsequently insulated with foam plastic or lined with siding, the studs are welded simply overlapping to the rods - such a connection will be much more reliable, and the finish of the facade will hide the unattractive appearance.

In other cases, the reinforcement is connected end-to-end with the studs. The welding area will need to be further strengthened. The best thing for this is the same pipe. Pieces up to 120 mm long are made from it. They are cut lengthwise and welded over the junction.

Nuts should be tightened in several steps, with an interval of a year.

When choosing materials, do not try to save money - too thin a corner will not be able to provide high-quality fastening of the walls. Also, there is little benefit from being too narrow.

Crack repair

After the ties are installed, you can begin to close the gaps. Not wide (from 1 to 5 millimeters) are filled with facade putty. Large (from 10 mm) require the use of a cement mortar prepared in the usual way.

Very large cracks are pre-filled with mounting foam - it will penetrate deep and provide good thermal insulation. After it dries, the wall is leveled with plaster.

Remember, in order for the crack not to reappear in the future, it is necessary to properly prepare it before sealing. It, in particular, is thoroughly dedusted with a vacuum cleaner or blown with a compressor. Before applying the plaster, the surfaces are wetted with water using a sprayer or, at worst, a broom.

It is not advisable to use reinforcing meshes in this situation - they help only when it comes to shallow cracks that form only on the surface of putty and other similar materials.

This video will help you better understand the process:

kirpichspec.ru

Before starting the exterior decoration of the walls of any building, work should be carried out to align them. For this purpose, a screed is equipped on the walls. In addition, with the help of wall screeds, it is possible to get rid of cracks on the walls of the house. We will consider further how to technologically correctly build a screed for the walls of a house.

House wall screed: device and technology

There are several options for performing plaster on the walls of the house:

performing plastering with a rule, without first installing beacons, this method is appropriate for a small difference in the walls horizontally or if the walls are absolutely even;
in the presence of large irregularities and deformations on the surface of the walls, beacons are used to level them.

If we consider the process of manufacturing a screed for walls in relation to SNIP, then three options for plastering should be distinguished, depending on the final result and the quality of the work being done:

1. Simple plaster and its application to the walls, as a result, is characterized by the presence of deviations of no more than three millimeters. Smooth irregularities are allowed, no more than six by eight square meters. In this case, the depth of the unevenness should not exceed five millimeters.

2. An improved version of the wall tie needs more stringent execution rules. For one square meter of the wall vertically, a difference of 2 mm is allowed. Smooth irregularities that are present on the walls should not have a depth of more than three millimeters. Horizontal deviations are not more than two millimeters.

3. The high-quality version of the wall screed is characterized by the presence of deviations of no more than one millimeter. Small irregularities and deviations with a depth of not more than one millimeter are allowed.

Screeding the walls of the house along the lighthouses: features of the process

If there are cracks and significant irregularities on the walls, this particular method of performing the screed is used. The cost of this process is about four hundred rubles per square meter. Therefore, without hiring builders, it will be possible to save significantly.

To do the job, first of all, you will need a perforator and a level that has a water bubble inside. At the same time, the length of the level should be 200 cm. The process of choosing a mixture for plastering walls follows. Most often, for these works, compositions based on the use of cement or gypsum are used. The use of gypsum mixture is relevant in such cases:

no cracks, even if the plaster layer exceeds five centimeters;
complete absence of shrinkage;
a high level of plasticity ensures the convenience of working with this material;
light weight also ensures work with this material, in addition, the gypsum mortar has good adhesion to any of the bases on which it is applied;
high level of vapor permeability, thermal insulation, sound insulation;
no need to use reinforcing mesh to strengthen the walls.

Plaster beacons have the form of narrow metal profiles, on the surface of which there are holes that limit the application of the plaster mixture. When the beacons are carried out using the rule, excess plaster is removed from the surface. Most often, the rules are about three meters long, and the depth varies from 0.6 to 1 cm. The rule is in the form of a long aluminum rail, the sharp edge of which allows the plaster to be leveled when performing the screed. The rule also checks the surface for uneven areas.

To perform work on the screed of the walls of the house, you will need:

plaster composition;
beacons, a certain depth, depending on the thickness of the plaster;
perforator and a special nozzle, with which the solution is mixed;
dowels and self-tapping screws of rather large length;
screwdrivers and building level;
grinders or scissors for metal, with which beacons will be cut;
hammer, plumb line and aluminum rules;
wide spatula and steel rule;
acrylic-based primers, primers for concrete surfaces;
wide brush;
roulettes;
protective clothing.

After preparing all the tools and materials for work, the process of performing wall screed follows. First of all, you should prepare the walls and install beacons on them. The easiest way to perform this action is using a laser level. Please note that the installation of beacons should be given special attention, since the final result of the work and the evenness of the walls depend on the quality of this process.

Screed walls at home photo and preparation for work

Before starting work, the walls should be examined for irregularities, deformations, cracks. To do this, install a level on the walls and check their evenness. The long rule will help to detect defects in the form of bumps and depressions on the walls. Irregularities that were found on the walls should be noted with a marker or pencil.

The following is the process of marking for the installation of beacons. Consider the option of having a wall, on the side of which there is a door. In this case, the first two beacons are installed on the sides, retreating from each corner about thirty centimeters. The location of the beacons is indicated with a marker or pencil. The further interval between beacons is from 1 to 1.5 m.

Please note that the length of the beacons must be greater than the length of the rule. An equal distance recedes from the floor and ceiling at which the beacons will be installed. The extreme points of their fixation are indicated by self-tapping screws. For a more secure fastening of the beacons, you must first install the dowels.

Between each of the corners of the wall, a cord should be stretched horizontally. The length of the beacon retreats from the previously installed dowels and a self-tapping screw is also installed on the dowels in the upper part of the wall. A cord is stretched along the top of the wall. like the bottom.

At the intersection with the markings, beacons are installed according to the previously marked scheme. Before that, self-tapping screws with dowels are also attached to the wall. Holes are obtained, located in two rows, the screws located at the corner are unscrewed, but the dowels remain.

When preparing walls for applying plaster, first of all, they should be cleaned of dirt, dust, degreased and dried. This is followed by the process of applying a primer to the walls, it will help increase adhesion to the surface. In addition, the absorption of moisture on the surface of the walls will decrease. The primer is applied in several layers, special attention is paid to walls made of aerated concrete or brick.

If the surface of the wall is smooth, then the use of Betonokontakt is sufficient. If the surface of the walls is porous and absorbs moisture well, it should be treated with a deep penetration primer. Only after the walls have completely dried, further work on the manufacture of their screed follows.

The following is the continuation of the markup. Install two screws at the top and four at the corners. After installing the screws, adjust their location on the wall so that they are on the same level. The line must be absolutely vertical. The second self-tapping screws are also installed vertically. We remind you that the technologically correct execution of the plaster depends on the quality of this process. A plumb line or a laser level will help you do the job.

Next, check the beacons for evenness of their installation, a cord is pulled over all the caps of the screws. Install a small part of the beacon under the cord, you can take it from the remnants. The beacon should be freely located under the cord on all sections of the wall.

The cord will help edit the location of the screws along the central part of the wall. Do the same for the bottom row. Only after each of the screws is in the same plane with each other, the process of fixing the beacons begins.

Instructions for installing beacons for plastering walls:

1. Lighthouses must be cut strictly according to the distance between the upper and lower self-tapping screws. To fix the beacons, you will need a little plaster mortar.

2. Do not cook too much of the mixture, as it will harden and become unusable.

3. The solution should have a curd-like consistency. The plaster must be firmly held on the spatula.

4. The plaster should be applied along the lines of the beacons and its excess should stick out behind the screws. Install the beacon in such a way as to ensure its uniform installation both at the top of the wall and at the bottom of it. It is best if two people do the work.

5. A long level or rule will help determine the evenness of the installation of beacons. This is followed by the process of pulling the screws out of the wall. Please note that when using the rule, it must be cleared of the solution before further use.

Do-it-yourself screed of the walls of the house: the technology of applying plaster

After fixing the beacons, the process of applying plaster follows. To do this, follow the instructions below:

1. Fill the bucket with water by a third, add a little solution and mix the composition with a drill with a mixer nozzle.

2. Please note that the density of the solution directly depends on the thickness of the applied layer. The minimum density of the solution should be such that it does not flow off the spatula and is well kept on it.

3. It is best to read the manufacturer's instructions before thinning the plaster.

4. If the surface of the walls is made of materials that are highly moisture absorbent, then before applying the plaster composition, it is recommended to moisten them with water.

5. Wet the areas gradually, before applying the plaster, using a spray bottle.

6. Otherwise, the moisture from the plaster will transfer to the wall and it will begin to crack.

7. Professionals who carry out wall plastering work apply plaster mortar with a yarn over.

8. If you have no experience in carrying out such work, then the easiest way is to apply plaster on a trowel, and then distribute it on the wall.

9. The wall is aligned from the bottom to the top. At the same time, the plaster should differ in density and should not go beyond the beacons.

11. If there are bumps or bubbles on the wall, then to remove them, you should remove the plaster and install it again. Next, you should align the site using the rule.

12. The final smoothing of the surface is also carried out using the rule. In this case, the excess solution is thrown onto the wall. Further actions are repeated in the same order.

13. After plastering all the strips, the areas near the floor and ceiling should be plastered.

14. In these places, the mortar is applied in a small overlap. Alignment of these areas is carried out in relation to the wound plastered surface along the beacons. In this case, the rule is held in a vertical or inclined position.

15. To check the result of the work, you should attach the rule to the wall at different angles and on different parts of the walls.

16. The trowel removes excess plaster. If there are cracks on the surface of the walls, use liquid plaster to remove them.

17. If there are metal beacons on the surface of the walls, care should be taken to remove them. Since they, after a certain time, will be covered with rust.

18. Use a screwdriver to remove the beacons, use a plaster mortar to seal the resulting cracks. Movements during application of the solution should be x-shaped.

19. If there are too large differences on the surface of the walls, the screeding process is carried out in two stages.

20. The application of the first layer is carried out without leveling, before it hardens, with a spatula, uneven serifs are made on it. It is they who will become the connecting element between the two layers and ensure reliable adhesion of the plaster to the wall.

The screed of the walls of the house with reinforcement is carried out if there are large cracks and deformations on the walls. Most often, a special metal mesh is used to strengthen the wall. They fit between two layers.

The final stage of work on the wall screed is the grouting of the plaster. Work should be carried out until the plaster is completely dry. Before grouting, the wall is additionally moistened.

The liquid solution is applied to the wall of the trowel. The tool is installed in relation to the wall at an angle of forty-five degrees. With strong movements, the surface is smoothed. When the solution no longer accumulates on the surface, move on to the next area, previously moistened with a spray bottle.

Please note that if further wall decoration will be done using tiles, then grouting is not necessary. Since small irregularities will accompany good adhesion of the tile to the wall.

Screed house walls video:

strport.ru

Foundation drawdown

The described problem resembles a typical case changes in the bearing capacity of soils due to changes in hydrogeological conditions. The bearing capacity of the foundation of the house became insufficient, and after the first crack it began to actively collapse at an increasing rate (now much less forces are needed to develop destruction). The reinforcement in the foundation and masonry (armor belts) is most likely absent, and after the appearance of a crack, there is nothing to hold the walls of further destruction.

This problem is fixable. In any case, you should check with the designer-calculator, giving him the opportunity examine the structure of the building in detail. Surely the cost of restoring the integrity of the house will be incomparable with the cost of building a new similar structure or the risk of its sudden catastrophic destruction.

The procedure for restoration work

1. Provide an opportunity for specialists examine the house in detail, including excavation of pits along the foundations, punching walls for taking samples and studying their structure.

2. If necessary, perform foundation strengthening. There are many ways and techniques, so without studying the real situation it is difficult to advise anything. If, however, a specialist recommends strengthening the foundation with an increase in its depth, you should first strengthen the house according to the recommendations below, and then return to strengthening the foundation.

3. Need inject cracks and tighten the building. For this you need:

3.1. Clear the plaster along the cracks to the brick. The width of the cleared strip is at least 5 cm.

3.2. Wash out the cracks water from a pressurized hose. Remove loose pieces of old mortar from cracks and any other debris that can be removed.

3.3. Glue fiberglass over cracks on epoxy. After 20-30 cm, leave holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

3.4.fill the cracks repair compound. Normal tile adhesive gives good results. The solution should be diluted to the state of liquid sour cream. As an injector, a syringe gun is also used to seal the seams of panels or a conventional silicone gun with an empty bottle of some kind of sealant. Cracks are filled from the bottom up from the outer and inner sides of the wall simultaneously to the hole. Then you need to close it with a stopper (you can use plasticine), move the injector higher and repeat the operation. In this case, it would be preferable to use a professional injector.

Puffs should be placed under the ceiling of the 2nd floor and above the floor of the 1st floor. Due to the high coefficient of thermal expansion of steel, they should only be placed inside the house. The range of rolled metal in the figure is indicated approximately, on the basis that the building is brick and has a maximum size of 8x8 m. The process of tightening the screws should be started at the highest possible temperature inside the building. Tighten the screws evenly throughout the building. Upon completion of this work weld nuts with electric welding, paint metal parts, plaster or concrete the tie rods and nuts with plates on the facade, perform the final finish.

3.6. Remove glass tape from cracks, top up poorly spilled areas with a repair mixture. Restore the plaster and finishing layer.

superdom.ua

Very often, owners of private houses, and especially brick ones, are faced with the problem of cracks on the walls. This happens due to shrinkage of the foundation, deformation of the soil structure, with a strong flow of groundwater or improper operation of the building.

The method of repairing the wall will depend on the cause that led to the appearance of cracks. The most difficult and difficult to repair a defect that arose as a result of poor-quality installation of the foundation. In this case, in addition to repairing the wall, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate foundation defects and only after that proceed with the removal of cracks. Otherwise, if you neglect the repair of the foundation, all other work will be meaningless.

Most often, cracks near the walls of a brick house appear above the openings of doors or windows. If they are small, then they can be filled with a special liquid fraction. This is done in such a way that it fills all the empty space. If this method did not help, then you need to strengthen the window and door lintels.

In the event that such measures did not help, you need to think about how to pull off the wall of a brick house. Such measures are used to eliminate large cracks. To eliminate the vertical gap in the brick, holes are drilled through, into which metal fasteners are then inserted. These fasteners are steel beams, which are pulled together with special studs. When the damage to the masonry is very significant, the wall opening should be completely disassembled and laid out again.

If the damage on the building is located in a horizontal position, in order to correctly eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to use metal plates. Such plates must be installed in the gap so that a seam connection is obtained. This will allow for a reliable strengthening of the structure of the house. This must be done, since such horizontal damage can lead to the fact that the wall is completely displaced.

When the damaged sections of the building have both a horizontal and a vertical direction, steel brackets must be used. Holes are punched in the wall for their fastening. And the final fastening is done with steel strips.

When repairing masonry, it should be remembered that the sooner a crack is detected, the more effectively it can be eliminated. This is due to the fact that the longer it is unattended, the larger it becomes. In the future, this will lead to the fact that the house cannot be repaired and it will completely collapse.

1pokirpichy.com

House screed with fittings

To perform this type of work, certain skills and abilities in welding are required, and you should also correctly calculate the required amount of reinforcement and its diameter. These parameters are determined depending on the area of the entire building and the damaged areas.

You can carry out these activities on your own, but it is better to contact a specialized organization. The professional employees of the company also take into account the degree of destruction of the building, the number of floors, the type of foundation and the type of roof, as well as the characteristics of the soil and territory.

In some cases, in places where the walls are not particularly destroyed, it is recommended to lay out new masonry, and in areas with an increased degree of destruction, pull them together with reinforced and more durable reinforcement.

Required materials for screed fittings

For screeding with fittings, the following materials and tools are required, which include:

fittings;
hairpins;

The technology of screeding with fittings is not complicated and consists in the following: special corners are attached to the corners of the house, into which studs are threaded and washers with nuts are screwed on. The screed of the house is carried out with the help of nuts, which are regularly tightened depending on the condition of the building.

Valve characteristics

Reinforcement is elements that are interconnected by means of concrete and are reinforced concrete beams that stretch the stress. It is also used to give increased strength and rigidity to various structures. Its components can be rigid (various angles, channels and rolled I-beams) and flexible (grids, frames and profile rods).

There are several ways to connect reinforcement to concrete, which include:

Interaction by friction;
shift method;
Coupling during concreting of the reinforcement element;
Connection at the electrochemical level;
Compression with concrete after shrinkage.

Rebar classification

To date, reinforcement has the following classification, depending on various features.

Depending on the area of use:

strained;
Not strained.

Depending on the intended purpose:

Working;
Mounting;
anchor;
Constructive.

Depending on the location in the structure:

transverse;
Longitudinal.

The main types of house destruction

The screed of the house from cracks is performed as a result of the following causes, which lead to a violation of the integrity of the house.

And these include the following:

collapse;
blockage;
Extension department.

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Mostly the collapse of the house leads to the formation of cracks in the upper corners of the openings, and the walls are deformed by waves or separated by the entire surface.

This type of destruction can be complete or partial. Full involves a change in the state of all the bearing walls of the structure, and partial - only some partitions.

Light demolition of the house

The main signs of such destruction include cracks in half of the corners of the openings, deformation of the head of the walls up to one third of the height in the normal state of the foundation.

The reason for the occurrence of such processes may be the significant weight of the roof, the construction of an additional floor, as well as the absence of a reinforcing belt. In order to eliminate this, it is necessary to use a steel clip on the corner supports.

The rods pass along the facade of the outer walls, and the work will require steel corners, a pipe, studs and nuts, a steel bar, subsequent cooking and painting.

Average camber

The main signs of such destruction are all the same reasons that are observed with a slight collapse, but with a probability of up to 80%.

The reasons for the appearance may be an insufficient reinforcing belt, a significant overload and the lack of a bunch of walls and corners during the initial construction of the building.

In this case, it is recommended to carry out a screed around the entire perimeter of the house in three levels of steel belts overlay to ensure better and more reliable fixation of the walls. In this case, the steel circle can be replaced by a strip, and the welding seams must be of excellent quality.

strong collapse

The main signs are the appearance of noticeable cracks in the walls and foundation of the building, as well as a combination of other causes that are characteristic of light and medium destruction. The cause of the appearance may be the destruction of the foundation of the house.

To prevent the complete destruction of the building, a continuous support and corner clips, as well as a retaining belt of the foundation, are used.

To strengthen the foundation, reinforced concrete is laid along the entire length of the base.

Description of the blockage of the house

The blockage suggests the blockage of the walls inside the house, which can be complete or partial. In all cases, welding work is carried out in the middle of the premises, which, as a rule, requires major repairs in all rooms of the building.

Complete blockage is characterized by blockage of three walls to varying degrees. The reasons may be the broken technology of building a house and an insufficient reinforcing belt. To eliminate it, a rigid steel frame on a through fastening is used.

Watch the video:

A partial blockage is characterized by the blockage of two walls, which may be caused by the negative effects of moisture or precipitation. For repair, a partial clip is used according to the principle of solid mounting.

From the author: Good day, my dear readers, who again faced the problem of low-quality buildings. The formation of cracks in walls and floors is no exception either for old forgotten Stalinist houses, or for newly purchased new buildings in European-style residential complexes. Noticing a crack in the wall, first of all you will think about what to do with it, after which you will puzzle over how to make a screed?

To tighten the walls when large cracks form in them is an adequate and correct solution, since this is considered a more rational and less costly way to stop the destruction of the entire building.

Can a crack break everything?

Of course, it can, if you do not attach importance to this right away. can be both harmless to integrity, and turn a dwelling into a heap of stone and dust, which can take not only a lot of valuable things, but also human lives.

You see, the crack formed in the wall (in most cases) is only the tip of a huge iceberg, which confidently moves towards the foundation, destroying it too. It makes no sense to explain how dangerous the split of the foundation is, since everyone knows what it will eventually lead to.

If you think correctly, then it is not a crack that leads to the foundation, but, on the contrary, it comes from it, since only a serious physical impact can start a split from the center and take it away in two or more directions. In another way, such an injury cannot form near the building.

You may encounter other reasons if your building was built of brick, which was laid out with gross errors. Often they appear as a result of cost savings on auxiliary materials that serve as the prevention of these diseases.

Why is all this happening at all?

There may be more than one reason, since a lot of factors affect the state of the foundation. Having identified the most important ones, we are ready to present them to you:

displacement of earthen rocks from seismic activity of the area. In the countries of the post-Soviet space, the phenomenon is quite rare, but, nevertheless, in some areas at the foot of the mountains, such cases take place. Even the Crimean mountains, not to mention the Caucasus, are no exception, from time to time making themselves felt by minor earthquakes. They are imperceptible to humans, but they can quite noticeably affect the foundations of buildings;
climatic conditions also do not stand aside. Let nature have no bad weather, but the foundation does not think so. Due to excessive moisture or, on the contrary, its lack, earth, clay, sand, or their synthesis can sag from time to time, thereby affecting the position of the foundation, lowering one of its parts, forming cracks that will force you to tighten the walls;
trees could grow near your house, the power of the roots of which easily breaks through the foundation. In my memory, next to my parents' house, literally three or four meters from the wall from the backyard, the previous owners planted a walnut. By the time we moved there, it was already a little more than a dozen meters in height, and its roots crept close to the building itself. After 3 years of our living there, a crack about three centimeters wide and more than two meters long opened on the outside, which was very elegantly hidden by the old owners who had gone far away with the help of putty and whitewash. The reason for this was precisely the ill-fated nut. The natural solution to this problem was to cut down a tree, which also entailed certain losses. The first is permission to cut down a tree, since it is impossible to engage in amateur activities in this matter. The second is a broken roof from falling branches, because it was insanely difficult to direct them in the right direction. And the third is a crack in the foundation, which later had to be reinforced with reinforcement;
initially wrong project or place of construction can also cause the formation of splits in the walls of the house. Minor cracks up to one millimeter wide are not normal, but acceptable for new buildings, so if you have one, do not be alarmed ahead of time. Almost all scientists and builders claim that it takes about five years for any building to sit normally on the surface of the earth due to its enormous weight. You should not ignore such moments at all. Any crack that forms must be monitored so that it does not begin to increase in size. If this happens, then this is a sign of incorrect construction, and you need to contact the developer for the necessary advice or even help. If you notice that cracks have appeared in your house, then you urgently need to contact specialists in this field, because only they can provide you with qualified support.

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

Any distortion in the foundation and therefore in the walls requires immediate repair. Many of us may be faced with the problem of insufficient funding and the search for a more budgetary and independent restoration of the integrity of your home.

Naturally, there is a solution, and, purely theoretically, it will not require a huge amount of financial investment and physical strength from you, since pulling together a crack is a very real task for any person.

Yes, it is with the help of artificial that you can strengthen the foundation and prevent your house from splitting in half, as if the world had begun to divide into continents again.

What is a screed and what does it consist of

A screed is the only solution that will help you stop or completely cut off the likelihood of a complete destruction of the house. Why pause? You see, if the building was erected with errors in the construction itself or in an unsuitable place for this, then the process of destruction cannot be stopped. Whatever you do, you will only delay the outcome of the event. Naturally, this is if the problem is in the foundation. If you find that the wall itself was the cause of the split (it can be made of brick or wood), then everything will be a little easier.

If you have shown a desire to repair the resulting breakdown yourself, then you will need some skills, without which it will be tight:

in order to save a lot of money and not buy an already welded screed, you can limit yourself to buying fittings and electrodes, and then self-welding the required size of the reinforced mesh. So, the first is welding and the skills to use it.
fittings. Something without which you will not be able to make a screed either for the foundation of the house, or for its brick or wooden components. She will be exploited in many ways, but her presence is mandatory. Why? The reinforcement has the necessary ratio of size and strength in order for the structure itself to be as convenient, reliable and, if necessary, aesthetic as possible;
to strengthen the lower part of the base of the house, you will need a large amount of concrete mortar, the method of which I will describe a little later;
piles will come in handy when forming the area that needs to be poured with concrete. And then you will need to give it the desired shape. Don't skimp on them, as poor quality wood can break and force you to redo all the work. If you are not interested in the aesthetic beauty of the foundation, and you do not want to spend extra money on logs, think about how much money you will throw away on extra concrete mortar, which will certainly spread around the house for a distance of about half a meter.

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

We read stories and theories, but how to do it all in practice - we will analyze now. The very first thing you will need to do is arm yourself with a shovel and, if possible, equip several of your friends or hired workers with them to speed up the process. Start digging in the ground where the split originates. Go deep to a depth of about half a meter. It is possible that more depth will be required, given that it depends on the height of the building, its number of storeys and the load that it creates. You can find out the depth of the foundation from the plan for building a house.

It is necessary to dig not only the place where the breakdown occurred, but also along the house at a distance of one and a half, and preferably two meters. This distance is also determined situationally and individually for each building. What is a big moat for? If you strengthen a small part, then the split will repeat much faster than you have time to cook dinner and raise a glass to a job well done.

The second stage will be the construction of a reinforced mesh. Reinforced mesh consists of rebar welded in such a way as to create a network with squares, the side of which can be at least ten centimeters. If you reduce this distance, then the mortar may simply split in two without fixing the required area.

An increase in this indicator leads to the fact that the reinforcement process in no way contributes to an increase in strength, but only creates the appearance of the work performed. If the financial issue does not play a big role, then it is better to make the grid double, that is, build it in two levels. This will require more concrete, but will give additional strength.

Little hack: it is quite possible that you do not have enough funds to purchase the required amount of screed fittings. If time does not allow you to wait, then you can replace it with an ordinary concrete pillar. Yes, it will not give the same level of durability, but it will serve as a temporary building quite confidently. And if we take into account that there is nothing more permanent than something temporary, then we get a great alternative.

Having built the grid, you need to firmly fix it on the foundation of the house. Drill holes and install mesh. You can take your time to close up the resulting cavities, because in the next step everything will become more clear. This concludes the third stage.

The fourth is the installation of piles. In some cases, they are not needed, but if you have done a serious digging to the house, then they will come in handy. Install the piles and wooden railings in order to proceed to the next step.

Fill everything with concrete. A very important point is precisely the fact that in no case should you fill the screed by manually filling the cavity between the mesh and the house. This process involves only pouring concrete mortar. Otherwise, all the work will be done in vain and the result will not show any. The building will continue to deform.

After you have done everything that we have indicated above, wait until the concrete hardens. This will take up to one week, depending on the climatic conditions of your area.

How much does a house screed cost?

fittings

Reinforcement elements are divided into rigid (corners, channels, rolling I-beams) and flexible (rods of periodic and smooth profiles, as well as knitted or welded frames and meshes).

Consider the classification of types of reinforcement.

Depending on the purpose, fittings are:
- working (the section is assigned according to the calculation, the forces are perceived in the particles of the main load);
- structural (distribution fittings that perceive shrinkage/expansion, exposure temperature);
- assembly (set to combine the structural and working parts); - anchor (embedded parts).

Depending on the conditions of use, fittings are:
- not strained;
- tense.

In prestressed prestressed concrete structures, prestressed reinforcement is exclusively operational.

There are five options for contacts between reinforcement and concrete:
- contact with concrete structures by friction;
- connection on shear bonds;
- adhesion (connection process when concreting a steel reinforcing element);
- interaction of cement mortar and steel reinforcement at the electrochemical level;
- compression of reinforcement with concrete after its shrinkage.

When cracks appear in the brick walls, the owner of the house is no longer in the mood for jokes. Before him is the task of strengthening the structure. In general, many people prefer to limit themselves to closing gaps, but it is worthwhile to understand that without eliminating the main reason, there is not much benefit from this.

See also: How to make an adobe brick with your own hands

Below we will talk about such a method as screeding the walls of a brick house that has begun to crack.

The annex has moved away

The main factor in the masonry divergence is the deformation of the foundation. Everything else is nothing more than a consequence.

See also: How and how to close a crack in a brick wall of a house

If the rift doesn't expand anymore, it's enough:

clean from dust and poorly adhering solution;
primed well;
fill with fresh cement to the full depth.

Usually such a “treatment” is enough for several years, but subsequently the crack will definitely manifest itself.

bad link

Other technology violations

First of all, they are evidenced by the gap in the masonry clearly along the seam. In this case, the blocks always remain intact. More often this problem is caused by:

poor wetting of brick surfaces;
insufficient pressing to the solution;
improper preparation of the masonry mixture (little cement).

A responsible homeowner should tie down the house just in case as a preventive measure immediately after construction is completed. With this approach, the occurrence of cracks is reduced to zero.

If the trouble in question nevertheless happened to a mansion in which people already live, then this method will not only slow down, but also stop the process of destruction.

First of all, prepare:

4 wide (100 by 100 millimeters) corners, whose length corresponds to the height of the walls;
reinforcement or a round bar with a cross section of at least 16 mm and a length equal to two perimeters of the building;
up to one and a half meters of thick-walled ½ inch pipe;
threaded studs with a diameter of 16 mm;
16 washers and nuts.

First of all, cuts are cut through the outer plaster, and removed from the corners. If this is not done, then later it will not be possible to disguise the metal ties.

The rest of the work is done in the following order:

150 mm pipe sections are welded to the corners on both sides;
blanks are installed at the corners of the house;
trimmed studs (20 cm) are welded to the fittings;
the latter is inserted into the pipe and fixed with nuts.

If a smooth rod (circle) is used, then it can be threaded with a die, then there is no need for studs.

To tighten the nuts more tightly, you can heat the fittings with autogenous - the metal will expand, and then cool and shrink.

Nuts should be tightened in several steps, with an interval of a year.

When choosing materials, do not try to save money - too thin a corner will not be able to provide high-quality fastening of the walls. Also, there is little benefit from being too narrow.

Crack repair

Very large cracks are pre-filled with mounting foam - it will penetrate deep and provide good thermal insulation. After it dries, the wall is leveled with plaster.

It is not advisable to use reinforcing meshes in this situation - they help only when it comes to shallow cracks that form only on the surface of putty and other similar materials.

This video will help you better understand the process:

kirpichspec.ru

Screed at home from cracks in the walls with reinforcement

Today, there are many ways to stop the appearance of cracks in buildings, one of which is a house screed from cracks, which is performed using various materials. Cracks are the reason for the subsequent destruction of the structure and lead to an emergency that requires immediate resolution of this problem.

House screed with fittings

Required materials for screed fittings

For screeding with fittings, the following materials and tools are required, which include:

fittings;
hairpins;

Valve characteristics

There are several ways to connect reinforcement to concrete, which include:

Interaction by friction;
shift method;
Coupling during concreting of the reinforcement element;
Connection at the electrochemical level;
Compression with concrete after shrinkage.

Rebar classification

To date, reinforcement has the following classification, depending on various features.

Depending on the area of use:

strained;
Not strained.

Depending on the intended purpose:

Working;
Mounting;
anchor;
Constructive.

Depending on the location in the structure:

transverse;
Longitudinal.

The main types of house destruction

The screed of the house from cracks is performed as a result of the following causes, which lead to a violation of the integrity of the house.

And these include the following:

collapse;
blockage;
Extension department.

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Mostly the collapse of the house leads to the formation of cracks in the upper corners of the openings, and the walls are deformed by waves or separated by the entire surface.

This type of destruction can be complete or partial. Full involves a change in the state of all the bearing walls of the structure, and partial - only some partitions.

Light demolition of the house

The main signs of such destruction include cracks in half of the corners of the openings, deformation of the head of the walls up to one third of the height in the normal state of the foundation.

The rods pass along the facade of the outer walls, and the work will require steel corners, a pipe, studs and nuts, a steel bar, subsequent cooking and painting.

Average camber

The main signs of such destruction are all the same reasons that are observed with a slight collapse, but with a probability of up to 80%.

The reasons for the appearance may be an insufficient reinforcing belt, a significant overload and the lack of a bunch of walls and corners during the initial construction of the building.

strong collapse

To prevent the complete destruction of the building, a continuous support and corner clips, as well as a retaining belt of the foundation, are used.

To strengthen the foundation, reinforced concrete is laid along the entire length of the base.

Description of the blockage of the house

Watch the video:

Annex branch

In most cases, there is a combined separation of the extension of the house. The main sign is a crack at the junction with the main house or at the inner corner.

The main reasons for such destruction are the lack of attachment of the extension to the house during its construction, as well as poor foundation and possible overload of the additional premises.

The screed of the house from cracks is eliminated by such destruction by a set of measures, including the use of through, semi-through, anchor clips and supports. In this case, supports can be located around the entire perimeter of the foundation or clogged in separate places.

domunit.ru

How to tie walls to prevent your home from collapsing

From the author: Good day, my dear readers, who again faced the problem of low-quality buildings. The formation of cracks in walls and floors is no exception either for old forgotten Stalinist houses, or for newly purchased new buildings in European-style residential complexes. Noticing a crack in the wall, first of all you will think about what to do with it, after which you will puzzle over how to make a screed?

To tighten the walls when large cracks form in them is an adequate and correct solution, since this is considered a more rational and less costly way to stop the destruction of the entire building.

Can a crack break everything?

Of course, it can, if you do not attach importance to this right away. Cracks in the wall can be either harmless to integrity or turn a dwelling into a pile of stone and dust, which can take not only a lot of valuable things, but also human lives.

Why is all this happening at all?

There may be more than one reason, since a lot of factors affect the state of the foundation. Having identified the most important ones, we are ready to present them to you:

displacement of earthen rocks from seismic activity of the area. In the countries of the post-Soviet space, the phenomenon is quite rare, but, nevertheless, in some areas at the foot of the mountains, such cases take place. Even the Crimean mountains, not to mention the Caucasus, are no exception, from time to time making themselves felt by minor earthquakes. They are imperceptible to humans, but they can quite noticeably affect the foundations of buildings;
climatic conditions also do not stand aside. Let nature have no bad weather, but the foundation does not think so. Due to excessive moisture or, on the contrary, its lack, earth, clay, sand, or their synthesis can sag from time to time, thereby affecting the position of the foundation, lowering one of its parts, forming cracks that will force you to tighten the walls;
trees could grow near your house, the power of the roots of which easily breaks through the foundation. In my memory, next to my parents' house, literally three or four meters from the wall from the backyard, the previous owners planted a walnut. By the time we moved there, it was already a little more than a dozen meters in height, and its roots crept close to the building itself. After 3 years of our living there, a crack about three centimeters wide and more than two meters long opened on the outside, which was very elegantly hidden by the old owners who had gone far away with the help of putty and whitewash. The reason for this was precisely the ill-fated nut. The natural solution to this problem was to cut down a tree, which also entailed certain losses. The first is permission to cut down a tree, since it is impossible to engage in amateur activities in this matter. The second is a broken roof from falling branches, because it was insanely difficult to direct them in the right direction. And the third is a crack in the foundation, which later had to be reinforced with reinforcement;
initially wrong project or place of construction can also cause the formation of splits in the walls of the house. Minor cracks up to one millimeter wide are not normal, but acceptable for new buildings, so if you have one, do not be alarmed ahead of time. Almost all scientists and builders claim that it takes about five years for any building to sit normally on the surface of the earth due to its enormous weight. You should not ignore such moments at all. Any crack that forms must be monitored so that it does not begin to increase in size. If this happens, then this is a sign of incorrect construction, and you need to contact the developer for the necessary advice or even help. If you notice that cracks have appeared in your house, then you urgently need to contact specialists in this field, because only they can provide you with qualified support.

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

Yes, it is with the help of an artificial reinforcement screed that you can strengthen the foundation and prevent your house from splitting in half, as if the world had begun to divide into continents again.

What is a screed and what does it consist of

If you have shown a desire to repair the resulting breakdown yourself, then you will need some skills, without which it will be tight:

in order to save a lot of money and not buy an already welded screed, you can limit yourself to buying fittings and electrodes, and then self-welding the required size of the reinforced mesh. So, the first is welding and the skills to use it.
fittings. Something without which you will not be able to make a screed either for the foundation of the house, or for its brick or wooden components. She will be exploited in many ways, but her presence is mandatory. Why? The reinforcement has the necessary ratio of size and strength in order for the structure itself to be as convenient, reliable and, if necessary, aesthetic as possible;
to strengthen the lower part of the base of the house, you will need a large amount of concrete mortar, the method of which I will describe a little later;
piles will come in handy when forming the area that needs to be poured with concrete. And then you will need to give it the desired shape. Don't skimp on them, as poor quality wood can break and force you to redo all the work. If you are not interested in the aesthetic beauty of the foundation, and you do not want to spend extra money on logs, think about how much money you will throw away on extra concrete mortar, which will certainly spread around the house for a distance of about half a meter.

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

A small life hack: it is quite possible that you do not have enough funds to purchase the required amount of screed fittings. If time does not allow you to wait, then you can replace it with an ordinary concrete pillar. Yes, it will not give the same level of durability, but it will serve as a temporary building quite confidently. And if we take into account that there is nothing more permanent than something temporary, then we get a great alternative.

After you have done everything that we have indicated above, wait until the concrete hardens. This will take up to one week, depending on the climatic conditions of your area.

But what if the trouble happened on the masonry?

It is much easier to pull off the walls of a brick house, but it is unlikely to lead to a complete solution to the problem.

The reason for the formation of holes between the bricks, if the foundation of the building is not affected, is the incorrect laying of the stone itself. The right solution is to tear down the wall and rebuild it, but if you can't afford to tear it down and rebuild it, then there is a solution. Let's look at it step by step:

Determine the location from which the fault began. It was on this row that a mistake was made in the construction.
Install threaded holders on one side of the wall and on the other, which will hold the reinforcement that creates tension. Do not forget that the thread must also be on the reinforced rod.
Pass the reinforcement through the holders and fix it. Stretch the rod as much as possible to create tension. Do not overdo it with it, as you can tear out the last brick.

If the split in the wall is small, then you can use ordinary dowels along the entire crack.

There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to properly tighten walls. If you enter into Google the query “the wall has moved away how to pull off the video”, then the darkness of assistants will instantly come running to your aid. Here, for example, is a video on what to do if a similar situation happened with a house made of timber:

But do not forget that the best help is provided by qualified professionals. Don't skimp on your home if you don't want to be left without it.

seberemont.com

Crack in a brick wall: what to do

Cracks in the walls spoil the mood worse than any other building flaw. I tried, I built, it seems that I took everything into account, and you have a crack. Unpleasant, agree. However, there are ways out, although some of them do not save the situation completely. To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with the main reasons due to which the walls are bursting at the seams in the truest sense of the word.

Factors of occurrence of cracks in the walls and solution

All of the reasons below are some kind of factors that have accelerated the occurrence of cracks. There is usually only one reason - this is the subsidence of the foundation or its individual parts. But if you do not make mistakes, which are discussed below, then the crack will either not appear at all, or will not be large.

Screed at home: basic rules

The screed of an already finished house is made in order to protect itself from the appearance of cracks or in order to prevent the crack (s) from increasing. This method has successfully proven itself and we believe that there is simply no better and more reliable way to strengthen a finished house.

Suppose we have a house with dimensions of 6 * 6 meters and a height of 3 meters. We will need:

Steel corner: 100 * 100 mm - 4 pieces of 3 meters
Rebar or rod: diameter not less than 16 mm - 48 meters
Thick-walled pipe: inner diameter is equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the reinforcement - 1.5 meters
Threaded studs: the diameter is equal to the diameter of the reinforcement - 16 pieces
Washers, nuts: 16 pieces

From the photo it becomes clear how all the details will be used: The corner is placed at the corners of the building, sections of a thick-walled pipe are preliminarily welded onto it, the studs are welded to the reinforcement or bar, and the whole structure is tightened with nuts. Now a few tricks and rules:

The photo shows that the stud is welded to the rod with an overlap. This is somewhat unaesthetic if it is not planned to cover the entire building with siding or similar materials. Then you can butt-weld, but additionally strengthen it with the same thick-walled tube. To do this, cut off a segment of 10-12 centimeters with a grinder, cut it along and put this kind of tire at the junction of the stud and reinforcement. Four seams are boiled and that's it, the connection is even, with small and barely noticeable tubercles in the form of halves of the tube.
After tightening all nuts, this operation is strongly recommended to be carried out after the first summer. You can repeat it again, in a year - it will not be superfluous.
If a rod or reinforcement passes through the threshold of the house, then everything needs to be calculated correctly here: so that the front door opens freely, and so that the threshold does not have to be ditched very deep.
The thick-walled tube into which the threaded studs will go should be of such thickness that it does not burn through during welding and at the same time it is enough to heat the metal. Only in this case can we talk about the reliability of welding.
The nuts must be tightened sequentially to avoid distortion.
The thicker and wider the corner, the more reliable the screed will be. Do not chase cheapness - a thin corner and not wide, moreover, will not give the desired effect.
The corners of the house, which are framed by various brick belts, need to be prepared by cutting out a place so that the corner fits snugly against the corner of the building.
If it is supposed to screed the house with your own hands and without involving strangers, then we advise you to fix the corners with self-tapping screws or bolts directly to the corner of the building. This way you will accurately place the corner at the desired mark and stretch the reinforcement on all four sides of the house without any problems. This is done as follows: holes (2-4) are drilled in the corner closer to paradise, so that by drilling the wall under the dowel, do not break the brick. Next, the corner is exposed and marks are placed on the wall with a pencil through the holes in the corner. Now a hammer drill or impact drill in hand and go. Self-tapping screws with a hex head will hold any weight of the corner, especially since this is done temporarily, only for the sake of fixing due to the lack of "extra" hands. Before the final tightening of the nuts, it is better to remove the self-tapping screws.

How to close a crack

You need to understand that before you close a crack in the wall, you need to strengthen the wall itself. Otherwise, the crack will appear again and again, and your work will be repeated at the same time.

If the crack is small in width, somewhere around 1-5 millimeters, then putty can be dispensed with.
If the crack is larger, up to about 1 cm, then it is better to repair it with a sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1: 3.
Cracks of even greater width and depth, respectively, are best pre-foamed, and then repeat either point 1 or 2 - be guided by the situation. Mounting foam does wonders, believe me.
Any crack before sealing should be thoroughly cleaned from dust, plaster or putty residues, from the ground (if the seal is closer to the base from the outside) and other debris. It is advisable to moisten with water before plastering with a sprayer or even a broom (if the building does not require a special approach in terms of cleanliness).
It is often recommended to reinforce with a mesh, but you need to understand that this operation is useless if the wall continues to move to the side or fall down. No mesh and other similar things will save you from a newly appeared crack and you will close it again and again.

Instead of a conclusion

The crack in the wall will no longer disappear - you will putty or plaster it at most. But if you properly tie the house or strengthen the foundation, or both, the crack will no longer expand. Let's give an example: in a house where the crack reached the size of the thickness of a palm after screeding and sealing the gap for almost 15 years, a barely noticeable line appeared, resembling more a cobweb than a crack. One can only imagine how loudly the house would disintegrate if it were not pulled down in time. But even better is not to make mistakes in construction, so as not to worry about cracks later.

www.depstroi.ru

House wall screed - repair, strengthening, strengthening, restoration in St. Petersburg

Screeding the walls of a country house - standard ways to do quality work

Owners of country houses who need a screed of the walls of the house very often turn to our organization. These are country houses in which a wall has burst or cracks have appeared in the walls or foundation. In such cases, we offer the client to make a professional wall screed at home. In cases where the owners ignore these defects and do the insulation and finishing of the facade without screed work at home, this leads to disastrous consequences.

The screed of a brick house simply needs to be entrusted to professionals, since these works require not only a qualified welder and theoretical training, but also many years of experience and observation of processes for a long time. If you do such work yourself and do not guess with the loads, then all further work on the insulation and finishing of the facade will be meaningless, and these are serious cash costs.

The dimensions of rolled metal for screeding the walls of the house must be selected depending on the size of the structure, the degree of its destruction and the features of its design. Starting work on the screed of the walls of the house, it is necessary to study the cause of the destruction and try to remove it most competently. Usually this reason is a weak foundation, which will have to be strengthened and insulated. And sometimes a complete replacement of the foundation is required.

There are two ways of screeding - floating construction and rigidly tightening. The first is suitable for small buildings where the loads are minimal. A rigidly tightening is necessary for two-story and higher houses. The difference in these designs is that the floating screed simply tightens the house on threaded connections, while the rigid tie also strengthens the walls of the house by means of many anchors drilled into the walls of the house. Let's analyze each method separately in more detail.

The first way - for a one-story house with dimensions of 6.0 x 6.0 meters and small cracks in the walls up to 1 cm, a floating screed is suitable. To do this, the corners of the house will need to be vertically installed with 60 mm corners along the entire height of the house, and between themselves they should be tightened with 18 mm reinforcement (rod) or a 40 mm strip using threaded connections. When pulling the house together, one must understand that it will not shrink at one time and it will be necessary to periodically tighten the entire structure.

The second method is suitable for two or three storey houses. In these cases, corners of 80-100 mm are fixed at the corners of the house on metal anchors made of 8 mm reinforcement. Vertically through 2.5-3 meters and along the edges of window and door openings, racks from a profile pipe 60x30 mm are also mounted on anchors. Then the transverse bars are welded horizontally, which are also fixed with metal anchors. All this construction securely tightens the house and prevents its destruction. After installation, metal structures are primed and painted with enamel in the color of the house.

After contacting our construction organization, the screed of the walls of the house will be made with high quality and on time specified in the contract. And then, with peace of mind, you can proceed to the insulation and decoration of the facade. Our specialists have many years of experience in the quality of such work. In addition, we can offer you to carry out other construction services with your house, such as roofing.

www.oriongroupspb.ru

House screed - Apartment renovation StroyDonServis

Screed at home with fittings: technology, price, what to look for?

Screeding a house with fittings is a procedure carried out during the overhaul of floors, cracks in the foundation itself in a house or apartment.

To give the house screed ultimate strength for many decades, experts recommend not saving on work and reinforcing the screed.

What should be considered before carrying out work on the screed of the house with fittings?

This process must be entrusted to professionals who have serious knowledge and skills in welding, and will also be able to calculate the required diameter of the reinforcement. The required amount of reinforcement depends on the degree of destruction of the building, its number of storeys and dimensions. It is also necessary to take into account the shape and coverage of the roof, the soil, the type of foundation and even the location of the building. When screeding the house with fittings on your own, you may not take into account all these important parameters, and the quality of work may be shaken.

If the crack has gone through small sections of the house, then it is necessary to lay out the damaged sections again before performing the main work. Those areas that have suffered the most damage are recommended to be pulled together with thicker reinforcement.

For screeding a house with fittings, you will need the following materials:

Reinforcement of the required diameter.
Studs corresponding to the size and section of the reinforcement.

Valve installation technology

In order to screed the house with fittings, it is necessary to weld stops for the bar on the corners.

Important! The level for each wall should be different in order to avoid erasing nuts and studs.

The resulting corners must be fixed to the corner of the house, and the studs should be drilled into the stops. Then washers are put on the studs and nuts are screwed on, with the help of which the house is screeded with fittings.

During the screed at home with fittings, you do not need to sharply and too tightly tighten the nuts, do it gradually. It is advisable to tighten the nuts again about once every six months. After screeding the house with fittings, it remains to carry out the final stage - priming and painting.

What is the strap attached to?

Stretch fittings. This is a special steel, frame or composite mesh, which is made of fiberglass.
Dispersed reinforcement. The main materials are glass or steel fiber.

It is possible to combine these materials, but the complete replacement of one with another is not recommended by experts. It all depends on what loads on the floor will be in a particular room. For example, a leveling screed of 50 mm in residential buildings is produced with a dry mix solution, this design is reinforced with a reinforcing mesh for a steel wire screed with cells. The grid must be set carefully and competently, so that the reinforced floor screed has strong parameters.

How is floor screed made with reinforcement?

The floor screed with reinforcement is made using a steel mesh with special cells, the thickness of the reinforcement for the screed should be no more than 5 mm. Mounting is installed on special elastic mounting stands, which are previously placed on concrete bases.

How much does a house screed with fittings cost?

The cost of screeding a house with fittings depends on the professionalism and quality of work of a construction company. This type of repair work is an excellent solution for fixing small cracks and damage to the house.

Entrust the screed of the house with fittings to professionals! Our company offers a wide range of repair services at the most affordable prices. We will make your home comfortable for living! Contact the managers of our company to get acquainted in detail with our pricing policy and the widest range of services provided.

www.xn-----flcggtb8afdridiec.xn--p1ai

If cracks appear in the walls of your building, we will help prevent its further destruction. In the standard version, metal corners are placed in the corners, and the strands of reinforcement run parallel to each other, above and below. Tubes are welded to the corners, and threads are welded to the reinforcement, forming a metal frame, which is pulled by a specialist in a certain sequence. If the building has extensions, ledges, etc., in such cases, additional material is used (plates, anchor bolts, etc.). The dimensions of the material for the house screed are selected by our specialists depending on the dimensions of the building. For example, for a one-story building with a size of 8x8, reinforcement Ø16 and an angle of 63 are used. If the cracks are quite large, you can put strands into three or even four belts. In the work on tightening houses, we use DC electrodes (UONI), which produce the highest quality welding of metals. Many years of experience have allowed us to produce couplers of any complexity, both single-storey and multi-storey buildings. We use a variety of methods that are effective in our work.

Let's perform work on the contraction of houses in the Voronezh region. We work all year round.

(Prices are negotiable) Tel. 8-952-543-71-25 Vladimir el. mail

Let's make products of any sizes at the request of the customer.

Canopies (polycarbonate, profiled sheet)
Greenhouses
gazebos
Fences (profiled sheet, chain-link, forging)
Gates (forged, profiled sheet, garage)
Gates
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fences
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Garages
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Wall screed: step by step instructions. How to make a screed of the walls of a brick house with your own hands How to make a screed at home with fittings with your own hands

How much does a house screed cost?

Basic rules for screeding houses

collapse

Easy collapse

Average camber

strong collapse

obstruction

Full blockage

Partial blockage

The annex has moved away

bad link

Other technology violations

Crack repair

House wall screed: device and technology

Screeding the walls of the house along the lighthouses: features of the process

Screed walls at home photo and preparation for work

Do-it-yourself screed of the walls of the house: the technology of applying plaster

Foundation drawdown

The procedure for restoration work

House screed with fittings

Required materials for screed fittings

Valve characteristics

Rebar classification

The main types of house destruction

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Light demolition of the house

Average camber

strong collapse

Description of the blockage of the house

Can a crack break everything?

Why is all this happening at all?

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

What is a screed and what does it consist of

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

How much does a house screed cost?

MORE ON THIS TOPIC:

fittings

The annex has moved away

bad link

Other technology violations

Crack repair

Screed at home from cracks in the walls with reinforcement

House screed with fittings

Required materials for screed fittings

Valve characteristics

Rebar classification

The main types of house destruction

Features and description of the collapse of the structure

Light demolition of the house

Average camber

strong collapse

Description of the blockage of the house

Annex branch

How to tie walls to prevent your home from collapsing

Can a crack break everything?

Why is all this happening at all?

How to deal with cracks in the walls yourself

What is a screed and what does it consist of

Let's move on to the practical part of installing the screed on the base of the house

But what if the trouble happened on the masonry?

Crack in a brick wall: what to do

House wall screed - repair, strengthening, strengthening, restoration in St. Petersburg

Screeding the walls of a country house - standard ways to do quality work

House screed - Apartment renovation StroyDonServis

Screed at home with fittings: technology, price, what to look for?

Valve installation technology

How is floor screed made with reinforcement?

Let's perform work on the contraction of houses in the Voronezh region. We work all year round.

(Prices are negotiable) Tel. 8-952-543-71-25 Vladimir el. mail

Let's make products of any sizes at the request of the customer.

What else to read

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