Do-it-yourself wooden extension to a brick house. Choosing an extension to the house

To live in a more spacious and comfortable house, you do not need to build a new one, it is enough to make an extension to the existing one. Of all the construction technologies, the simplest and most affordable is frame construction. It is ideal not only for frame builders, but also for other buildings. It is realistic to make an extension to a frame house with your own hands if there is a step-by-step instruction. To do this, it is enough to have minimal carpentry skills and the right tool.

Options for frame extensions to the house

So that during the construction process you do not have to change plans, you must immediately decide what functions the frame extension to the wooden house or brick structure will perform. Purposes of use may vary.

Another living room. Building an extra room is not easy. It is necessary to do all the actions as in the construction of a full-fledged frame house: prepare the foundation, build the frame, insulate it. If this is not done, the use of the room will be inefficient, since the heat loss will be large. It is also important to make waterproofing so that there is no mold and dampness.


Additional bathroom or kitchen. Before you start attaching this structure, you will need to carry out the appropriate engineering communications, and only then pour the foundation. All places where sewer and water pipes pass through the foundation must be insulated. And it is better to do all this during construction, and not later.

Frame veranda. Today, frame houses with a veranda are very popular. They can be both open and fenced glass structures. Verandas are useful for relaxing in the summer. This extension is much simpler than a room, since it does not need to be insulated and communications should be carried out there. For the construction of the veranda, flooring is made, walls and a roof are erected. You should consider the dimensions of the structure so that the frame house with a terrace or veranda looks harmonious.

How to make a foundation

There are built-in and attached verandas.

  • Built-in veranda is being built along with the house, so it is being built on a common foundation.
  • For an attached veranda do separate foundation, maintaining a gap of 40 mm from the wall. If this is not taken into account, when the new base shrinks, it will collapse.

Base type selection

When planning the foundation, the seismicity of the soil, the total weight of the structure and other parameters are also taken into account. If mistakes are made at the planning stage, the extension may move away from the common house.

To build a foundation, you can use the following materials:

  • wooden, metal or concrete piles;
  • concrete;
  • a rock;
  • brick.

To build a frame extension to the house with your own hands, you can choose one of the following types of foundation:

  • slab;
  • tape;
  • pile;
  • columnar.

Usually for verandas in private houses they use strip and column foundations.

Strip foundation

If the additional extension is heavy, you need to choose from concrete. Do it like this:

  1. With twine mark the area where the trench will be dug, and fix it in a tense position with pegs.
  2. They begin to dig a trench, its bottom is covered with sand, then a little rubble is laid, which is rammed.
    Make a formwork, the height of which is equal to base height. Waterproofing is laid inside along the perimeter, and reinforcement prepared in advance is placed directly on the rubble.
  3. Prepare a concrete solution at the rate of 1:3:6 for cement, sand and gravel, respectively.
  4. The resulting mixture fills a third of the formwork and waits for solidification. Next, fill in the remaining volume. A vibrator is used to compact concrete, which removes residual air. You can also periodically knock on the formwork with a hammer.
  5. To make the upper part even, it is poured in level, after which it is covered with a film. Periodically, the surface must be moistened to avoid possible cracks.

If you build a frame extension to the house with your own hands as light veranda, you can save on the foundation and choose the columnar option. Not only concrete is suitable for it, but also brick, rubble stone, or a combination of both.

The algorithm of work is the following:

  1. They dig deep holes for the pillars, the distance between which is 60 cm. The shape of the holes is square, the size is 50x50 cm.
  2. The bottom is covered with sand.
  3. A small layer of concrete is poured onto the sand, waiting for it to set.
  4. Then brick columns are erected. The masonry must be perfectly even, so it is checked by level.
  5. Concrete supports are made in the same way as a strip foundation, but only in the form of pillars.
  6. When the structure is completely hardened, the formwork is dismantled, and then waterproofing, for example, roofing material.
  7. If there are any voids left in the pits, they are covered with rubble and soil, and they are also tightly tamped.

The optimal height of the columns is considered to be one that provides a distance from the ground to the finished floor of 30 cm.

Which floor to choose for the extension

If the foundation is of a strip type, you can choose any floor (wooden, concrete) for the frame extension. If it is columnar, then only wooden.

Let's consider both cases:

  1. Concrete. After pouring the foundation inside the concrete rectangle, soil is selected by 30-35 cm. Next, sand is poured into this mini-pit, and crushed stone or expanded clay is poured on top. The layer thickness is 20 cm. A reinforced grating is installed on top of this pillow and a full-fledged screed is poured. They achieve an absolutely flat surface, after which they lay tiles, laminate or wood on top.
  2. Wooden. Install massive floor beams on top of the waterproofing, connecting them to the foundation with anchors or other fasteners. Next, logs are stuffed onto the beams, they are insulated, and a floor covering is laid on top.

Construction of frame walls

For the construction of the walls of the frame extension, a beam is used. From it make vertical racks and beams. First, the main frame of the walls is assembled in a horizontal position, and then it is erected vertically.

Installation rules:

  1. The lower strapping bars are determined and a cut-out for vertical bars is made on them every 50 cm.
  2. They are installed in the grooves of the rack and fixed with special screws and corners.
  3. Collect the upper beams for strapping.
  4. Fasten the veranda together with the house, using vertical bars for this.
  5. Anchor bolts are used to fix the veranda racks to the house.
  6. The resulting frame of the veranda is immediately sheathed on the outside with boards, plywood or OSB to increase the rigidity of the structure.
  7. Next, the frame is insulated, the roof is built and fixed, after which doors and windows are inserted.

Roof construction

The best option for a frame extension - pitched roof, it is combined with any main roof.

Mount it as follows:

  1. First, the rafters are fixed on one side under the slope of the existing building, and on the other - on the wall of the veranda. Metal corners with a pre-calculated angle of inclination are used as fasteners.
  2. They make sure that the protrusion of the rafter legs behind the wall is not less than 30 cm. Thanks to such a canopy, the veranda will be maximally protected from getting wet by sewage.
  3. The selection of the roof is carried out in advance. The best option would be the same material as for the roof of the house. Slate can be installed directly on the rafters or on the crate, and soft roofing can only be installed on OSB sheets or plywood.
  4. The truss structure is sheathed with a layer of waterproofing, depending on the type of roofing.
  5. All roofing materials are installed from the bottom up.
  6. To insulate the roof, it is best to use mineral wool.

Insulation of an attached building

In order for the frame extension to the house to be habitable, it must be insulated. The best insulation is ordinary mineral wool. It can be cut into the desired squares and laid between the sections of the frame. If the wool is laid in several layers, it is necessary to shift the plates among themselves so that there are no butt joints.

Outside and inside, the insulation is sheathed with a vapor barrier film so that moisture does not collect inside and does not spoil the material. After that, make a decorative finish. From the inside of the extension, frame walls can be sheathed with wood, drywall, chipboard, and outside - with siding and other decorative materials.

In total, it looks like this:

  • vapor barrier layer;

    Floor insulation in a frame extension they do it in a similar way. Mineral wool is laid in the gap between the lags of the subfloor, and the boards are covered with a layer of waterproofing film. When the insulation is installed, waterproofing is again placed on top of it, and then the floor is sheathed with plywood and the final coating is installed.

    If you plan to attach an additional room to the house using frame technology, it is extremely important to follow all safety measures. This means that you should not save on personal protective equipment, it is better to purchase a quality tool that will not let you down in a responsible situation. Then the construction will be a successful event.

    Video: construction stages

Sometimes it becomes necessary to modify your home. The goals are different - expand the kitchen, attach a veranda, equip a technical room or an additional living room. Then the question arises for the owner of the house. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is an extension to the house with your own hands. It's cheaper than building a whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years that not everyone can afford. All in all, it might not be very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house that is overgrown with properly made outbuildings becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational moments

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Glazed veranda

With any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleaned of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

A drainage system is required under the building. To do this, the earth is compacted, and a slope is made at this place for water flow.

Foundation

The base for the construction of the structure is tape and columnar. Each has its own qualities. To select the most suitable, you must first study each.

Strip foundation

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Strip foundation

This foundation is done in the following order:

  • The rope is used to mark and trace the site for construction. It is stretched and fixed. According to this outline, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and 10-15 cm wider than the wall
  • The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is carefully compacted. Next comes the crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. Broken bricks are allowed
  • The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It goes 40-50 cm above the ground. It closes the foundation from the inside, and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation to its full height.
  • The concrete mortar should consist of cement with gravel. They fill 1/3 of the height of the trench. This layer must be completely dry. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
  • Having installed the formwork, form the base. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed from above. The film must not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air cavities inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
  • Upon completion of the pour, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. Every day it is sprinkled with water. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
  • It is recommended that the foundation be additionally covered with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. These are liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material. Then they start building walls.
  • The internal space of this foundation is equipped with various options. For example, using a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and logs, with the installation of a wooden floor in the future

Column Foundation

Read also:

Column Foundation

This type of foundation is built of brick or concrete. Possibly both materials. This basis is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with further planning for the installation of boardwalk.

The foundation is carried out in the following order:

  • First, the marking of the selected site for construction is also applied.
  • Pillars should be placed 1.5 m apart. For them, pits are dug 50x50 cm in size and 50-60 cm deep. The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by approximately 10 cm on each side
  • Further, the bottom of the pits is reinforced with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being laid
  • A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It must completely freeze. After that, brickwork is done
  • For concrete pillars, reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is laid inside the formwork and fixed from above.
  • The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry.
  • The top of the post is leveled and sprinkled every day with water until the concrete is completely dry.
  • After that, the formwork is removed. With the help of warm bituminous mastic, the poles are pasted over with roofing material
  • The void around the pillars is covered with earth with gravel. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
  • Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. This will be the waterproofing protection of the wooden bars. They will be mounted on top.

Floor bases

Floors made of wood and concrete are laid on the strip foundation. The tree is also laid for a columnar foundation without lintels.

concrete base

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concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on a strip foundation, work is carried out in stages according to a certain technology:

  • At the beginning, the earth is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
  • The bottom is filled with 10 cm sand. It packs up well. Then crushed stone or expanded clay is laid in 15-20 cm. The second material makes the screed warm
  • Everything is well leveled and the reinforcing grate is laid. A system of beacons is installed on it at a horizontal level. Some rooms require a sloped surface. For example, in a bathroom or on an outdoor terrace, water from the floor must flow freely to the drainage system.
  • The next step is pouring cement and leveling. After a day, it is recommended to cover it with plastic wrap. This will make it more uniform, durable
  • When the structure is ready, a floor covering or a wooden floor can be laid on a concrete base.

Wooden beam base

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Wooden beam base

  • To make the floors durable, choose high-quality crossbars.
  • Wooden bars, 15x10 cm thick in cross section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing felt substrate.
  • They are attached to concrete using through joints or corners.
  • The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All this will hold securely.

Wall materials

Any materials for the construction of an additional annex are used. The walls are built of brick, frame, foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has a good combination with the main house.

It will not be difficult to repeat the exterior decoration of the house. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

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The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

  • construction is fast, in a matter of months
  • due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
  • you can do it yourself
  • at an inexpensive price

The foundations of the house and self-building are made on the same level. Accession should not be capital, because. the extension will sag after a while. A deformation seam is made. Frame structures do not shrink vertically, which is very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and attached to pre-assembled coronal rungs. The bars can be attached separately. But it will be easier to assemble all the parts together with special fasteners, and then install them as an assembly.

To attach the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Here you need to be precise. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately upholstered.

The upper beam along the house is attached to the main wall with anchor bolts. Insulate the walls after installing the roof.

brick walls

Brick walls require a perfectly flat foundation surface. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they must be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks during shrinkage of self-building.

For the most part, brick structures are attached to the house from the same material. It is tied with a metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in the main wall at 2/3 of the depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and end up in the seams of the masonry. It is important to take the rods are not thick. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks under the reinforcement.

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A brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It is placed in through-drilled holes. Transverse stoppers are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull the cord along the future wall. A plumb line checks vertically.

The wall thickness will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, a brick is laid in 1-2 layers. On a terrace or outbuilding, a layer of half a brick will suffice.

Upon completion, the brick walls are surrounded by concrete from above. To do this, set the form in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is concreted. When the mortar hardens, the form is removed and the roofing begins to be installed.

Laying brick walls is not easy, as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option would be to entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from other material.

Extension from foam blocks

Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities, among building materials:

  • No special skills are required to work. Construction is possible on difficult ground
  • Due to the fact that the blocks are large and light, it takes less time and effort to assemble, compared to laying bricks or timber
  • The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and meets all fire safety standards. It also has low thermal conductivity and “breathes” well, which creates an optimal indoor climate.
  • Inexpensive, easy to assemble and easy to drill
  • An extension of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a long service life.
  • Additional protection is required, as the material soon loses thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity

    • Almost finished extension of concrete blocks

    The construction of foam concrete obliges the implementation of a strict sequence of stages:

    • It is necessary to start laying from the corner points
    • From below, the blocks are moistened to increase the hitch. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
    • The quality of the assembly is affected by the horizontality and verticality of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected with mortar
    • An adhesive composition is used between masonry. Connections are obtained no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, "cold bridges"
    • The composition is prepared, strictly following the rules. It is applied on top and on the sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
    • Grinding grater levels the horizontalness of each row. The garbage that is formed must be carefully swept away
    • The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will bind the structure and prevent cracking. Why cuts are made with a circular saw 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then recesses are knocked out with a hammer and a chisel. They need to be cleaned up. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive.

    For window and door openings, lintels with a width of not more than 1.75 m are installed. They are made using formwork - removable or fixed. For large openings, the strength of foam concrete is not designed. It is better then to choose a cinder block or silicate brick. This is a more secure base. The height of the jumper will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

    For a removable form, metal structures of the desired size are first welded. On the sides of the opening, bars are nailed for support, a form is set on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are sawn into narrow blocks. They equip the form from the inside. The result will be a semblance of a trough.

    The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with a large number of rods is at the bottom. All this is fastened with struts. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with a solution of concrete along the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled at the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

    For non-removable form, useU-shaped blocks. Setting the form itself is not required. Less time to work.

    For laying such blocks you need:

    • Install the block with the cut-out support on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontalness of the supports on the hose level. All irregularities are corrected with a grinding grater.
    • The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole up. After that, a reinforcement structure is placed so that there are a large number of rods below. It is fastened with braces
    • The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully sealed with a trowel.

    It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make it resistant to various types of deformation, wind loads, and increase the carrying capacity. The reinforced belt is insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

    Covering and roofing

    When the walls are already erected, they begin to deal with the ceiling. For this, crossbars are used. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm apart. They are fastened with special corners.

    When installing the crossbars on a brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the crossbars are wrapped in roofing material. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. Insulation material is laid between the lining and the crossbars.

A country house for lovers of country life is not a temporary hut, not just a place to sleep. Many summer residents live in it for months, and sometimes it becomes a permanent place of residence. But what if the house is small and there is a catastrophic lack of space in it? Continue to huddle in cramped quarters or build a new house - more? For those to whom both proposed options are not suitable, there is an excellent way out of this situation - to attach an additional room to an existing house.

So, most often the owner of the cottage decides to build an extension if:

  • There is a need for new premises
  • Initially, there was not enough money to build the most complete structure

The main advantage of any extension to a country house is the acquisition of additional usable space. An important nuance is the possibility of getting into the attached premises without leaving the main building. This is especially true in winter or in inclement weather, when the owner does not have to dress according to the season to get into the right room.

By the way, construction costs can be significantly reduced if you use the practical tips outlined in this article:.

Types of extensions

  • Lightweight (summer) options
  • Capital buildings
The name of the first type speaks for itself. That is, this is a room that can fully function at certain times of the year. Typically, such premises are built from lightweight versions of building materials, without a heating system.

The capital extension is actually a continuation of the main house, so its construction will require the following construction processes:

  • Walling
  • Roof installation
Not the most difficult job, it is quite possible to cope with it. The main thing is to know how to do it right. Many summer residents, without understanding the theory, immediately go to practice and, as a rule, make a number of serious mistakes that can lead to serious trouble in the future.

To prevent this from happening, let's look at the correct technology for building a capital extension, which implies the presence of a full-fledged foundation, stone walls and a pitched roof.

The foundation for a capital extension should be poured taking into account the construction of a real, albeit small, building on it. To do this, we need to do the following:

  1. Marking is being done at the site of the proposed construction of an extension.
  2. Trenches are dug under the foundation, or a formwork is set up (a frame, usually made of wood, into which the solution is poured). For a one-story building, a tape type concrete cushion 30-40 cm wide and up to half a meter deep is quite suitable.

The next step is laying the frame from the reinforcement.
The design can be ordered or made independently. For the second option, you can use a suitable metal, which is traditionally full of thrifty owners in summer cottages. You can fasten all the elements into a single whole using welding or strong wire.

The last stage of the preparatory work is to attach the laid metal frame to the main foundation of the house. This will require:

  • Drill a few holes in the concrete base of the building.
  • Drive strong reinforcement into them and fasten it by welding with the previously laid frame.

What should be the concrete for pouring the foundation

Concrete for the foundation can also be ordered, but you can also make it on your own. To prepare a good concrete mix, you will need to mix the ingredients in a certain proportion, for example:
  • 1 share of cement (say, 10 kg)
  • 3 shares of sand
  • 4 or 5 shares of crushed stone or gravel
Water is added on the basis that the weight of the liquid in the prepared mixture is approximately half the weight of all other ingredients. That is, if we take our approximate proportions, then about 40 liters of water should be added.

The finished concrete must be fluid enough to fill any voids, but should not be made too liquid, as this will cause the liquid to sink down while the mixture dries, which will significantly impair the performance of the extension base.

The poured foundation needs to be allowed to settle. It is recommended to periodically water it with water if small cracks begin to appear on the surface.

More details about the types of foundation, the intricacies of choice and device are described in the article:

Construction of extension walls

Before you start laying walls, you must definitely take care of their insulation. To do this, it is enough to roll out the roofing material along the plane of the foundation. The purpose of this step is to prevent moisture from spreading upwards - from the ground to the roof.

The process of erecting the walls of an extension from various types of stone is quite simple technologically:

  • The solution is kneaded (in proportion - 1 share of cement to 3 shares of sand, plus water is added in the amount necessary to achieve the consistency of thick sour cream)
  • The first stone is laid on a layer of mortar and tapped down a little with a trowel (trowel), hammer or ax
  • The second stone is installed in the same way next to the first, only a solution is added between them. Tapping occurs from top to bottom and from the end, towards the first laid brick (stone)
Thus, the first row is expelled. In order to somewhat facilitate your work, it is recommended to initially place the stones in the corners of the future extension, pull a strong thread between them (twine, thick fishing line), which will control the overall surface plane.
Important: Constantly check the evenness of the masonry with a spirit level - both horizontally and vertically.

When building an extension, it is important not to miss one required step - additional fastening of the walls being erected to the main building. Some ignore this stage, believing that the attached room can only hold the mortar in place. This is not true. The lack of additional fastening can subsequently lead to the appearance of cracks, which will be very difficult to eliminate.

The process of reinforcing the masonry will allow to avoid the appearance of this trouble (it is enough to do it through one laid row). To do this, you will need to drill holes in the walls of the main building and lay the reinforcement in such a way that one end of it is in the drilled hole, and the other lies on the surface of the lined row.

Further work continues in the same spirit: the next and next rows of brick (stone) are laid out. It should be noted that they must be installed on top of each other so that the connecting (vertical) seams of the previous and subsequent rows do not match. That is, laying bricks in a checkerboard pattern: the top one is located on two (sometimes even three, depending on the type of dressing) of the lower ones. This is done to achieve maximum strength and solidity of the structure.

Seismic belt installation


  1. Install formwork
  2. Lay the reinforcing structure
  3. pour concrete
The seismic belt, like the foundation, must be given time to solidify.

Roof erection

It is recommended to cover the roof with the same material that was used on the roof of the main building. This option is considered ideal when the sheets of both parts of the building are completely combined with each other. For example, consider the construction of a slate roof, which is most often found in ordinary summer cottages. The whole process of work can be divided into three main stages:
  1. Wooden frame installation
  2. Flooring hydro and vapor barrier
  3. Slate installation
Frame installation
The wooden frame consists of beams, which it is desirable to additionally drive into the wall of the main country house. The distance between the elements is no more than one meter.

The next step is the crate, which is attached perpendicular to the main bars. The boards are installed in such a way that one sheet of slate can lie on four of them. If the roofing material has a length of two meters, then the crate is mounted at a distance of 50 cm between the structural elements.

Flooring hydro and vapor barrier
Modern slate, unfortunately, is not of high quality, so it is advisable to lay a layer of hydro and vapor barrier under it. The film is bought at the store and attached to the crate using a construction stapler. The insulation is fixed from the bottom up in horizontal rows, so that the top layer slightly overlaps the bottom one (with an overlap). This is done so that water cannot get on the wooden structural elements or damage the ceiling of the extension - if it finds a way to penetrate under the slate or other roofing material.

Slate installation
Installation of slate is done in rows going from bottom to top. The first sheets are initially fixed only to the two lower roofing nails (to the second lath from the bottom). The second sheet of slate in the first row is overlapped (on one wave of the previous one). Laying in the same sequence continues to the end of the roof, where trimming of the material may be required. This procedure can be performed using a grinder and a stone work disc. Installation of the second and subsequent rows completely repeats the laying of the first.
Important:

  • The first row of slate should be extended beyond the wall by 10-15 centimeters to minimize the detrimental effect of water on the walls.
  • Nails are driven into the top of the wave: this way the probability of accidentally damaging the sheet with a hammer blow is reduced to a minimum; atmospheric precipitation will collect in the slate gutters, and not on the waves, therefore, the possibility of moisture entering through the nail holes is practically reduced to zero.

The main work is done. It is advisable to postpone the finishing of the extension to the country house for a sufficiently long time (six months). The thing is that the additional structure will shrink, and this can lead to the appearance of microcracks that will simply ruin the finishing work done. You should not worry about shrinkage - this is a natural process through which all buildings go. If you did everything right, the extension to the country house will serve faithfully for many years.

Solving the housing issue with your own private house is much easier than in a city apartment. The best option is to make an extension that can be used for a variety of purposes:

  • a full-fledged living quarters - an additional room;
  • living quarters with an attic (if the extension is two-story);
  • utility room - its own pantry, which can largely replace the cellar;
  • a spacious terrace or veranda where you can spend your holidays with the whole family;
  • car garage.

Below we will consider the basics of technology and step-by-step instructions for creating an extension to a wooden house.

Before choosing a specific building material and technology for building an extension, it is important to clearly define the purpose of the room. It may be worthwhile to immediately plan the creation of an extension in which it will be possible to live all year round - in case of an expansion of the family or the arrival of a large number of guests.

Types of extensions

There are several types of extensions to a wooden house. They differ in material, as well as installation features:

  1. frame extensions;
  2. from a cylindrical bar;
  3. from brick;
  4. from cinder block.

Before erecting a structure, it is important to take into account all the nuances that may affect the choice of materials and a specific type of extension:


To make the right choice of a specific extension project means to correctly correlate the purpose of this structure, the features of the house to which it is attached, with the technology and material of manufacture. To do this, it is important to understand how each type of such structures is built.

Do-it-yourself frame extension: step by step instructions and video

The frame extension has several advantages:

  • the design is quite simple, and if everything is calculated correctly, it is quite possible to do it yourself;
  • it is built much faster than brick, cinder block structures;
  • the design is quite light in weight and does not require much effort during operation;
  • in terms of thermal insulation, durability and other consumer qualities, the frame extension to the house is not inferior to others types of structures.

NOTE. If you intend to build a two-story extension, you should consider this option - the structure is lightweight and will not create excessive pressure on the ground, so the risks of subsidence are noticeably reduced.

Preparation for construction

At the preparatory stage, it is important to solve the following tasks:

  • What will be the frame material - wooden beams or metal profiles.
  • What type of extension will be associated with the main building.
  • Accurately calculate all dimensions of the structure and develop a detailed drawing.
  • Collect all necessary materials and tools.

First of all, it is important to decide on what type the structure will be built - as a continuation of the house with an increase in the main roof for the installation of a single roof or as an adjoining building.

It is clear that the second case will be cheaper, easier and faster - the extension will simply adjoin the wall. You can make access from the house directly to it, if you make an appropriate hole and put the door.

The diagram of the adjoining structure to the house is presented below.

Structurally, this solution is a roof placed on supports. The roof is standardly presented from rafters and supporting boards. For a longer service life, it is desirable to insulate it, lay out a layer of waterproofing. The basis, as a rule, is the usual strip foundation.

Pairing with the main part of the house occurs at 2 points:

  • wall;
  • roof.

The connection in each of them has its own characteristics, which will be described below. A preliminary sketch of the extension, as well as practical advice that should be considered before starting work:

At the same time, for the roof of the extension, it is better to choose a material that is elastic enough to make the necessary corrections. You can purchase corrugated board (height within 1 cm) or soft tiles.

In this sense, slate or traditional ceramic tiles, metal tiles will not work.

The frame is made of wood or metal. At the same time, all parts should consist of only one type of material - then the extension is more reliable and lasts longer.

NOTE. Even if the house is in good condition, but old enough, the rate of its drawdown will be several times higher than the drawdown of the extension. Accordingly, it is better not to use a rigid type of abutment of the structure to the main wall. In this case, another type of installation is used - "groove-comb".

As for tools, no special equipment is required: it is important to have a screwdriver, a saw, pliers, a building level and other woodworking tools.

Installation work must be carried out by at least two people - some stages will require joint efforts.

Foundation laying

The first stage of work is laying the foundation. Since in the overwhelming majority of cases, during the construction of a house, the construction of a foundation for an extension is not provided, the foundation must not only be laid correctly, but also securely connected to the main foundation.

NOTE. If you are designing the construction of a newly built house, it is better to take into account the extension right away. It can be made after some time, and laying the foundation along with the foundation of the main building is a technically correct option. In this case, the house and the extension will be a single entity, which will ensure their reliability.

The main requirements for the base of the extension are as follows:

  • reliability - stable maintenance of the weight of the structure without subsidence: especially important for extensions made of heavy materials or two-story structures;
  • maximum identity with the main foundation in terms of material and depth of laying;
  • the most complete adhesion to the main foundation.

Most often, strip foundations are chosen for an extension, since they are quite capable of coping with such loads. At the same time, installation features always depend on the type of soil. It is possible to lay monolithic foundations, made of brick or concrete blocks, fill them with drainage materials.

Schematic diagrams of the bases are shown in the figure.

The technology for building a strip foundation for an extension does not differ from the usual one. In short, a trench is dug, reinforced and poured with concrete.

Connecting the foundation to the main

This is the most critical stage. which needs special attention. Two types of connections are traditionally used:

  • "tape-tape";
  • "slab-slab".

According to the "tape-tape" type, the stages of work will be as follows:

  1. From the installation side of the extension, a trench is dug corresponding to the depth of laying the main foundation.
  2. Further, a hole half a meter in diameter is drilled at the base of the house - for the corners of the foundation of the extension. For all other parts, the hole corresponds to the diameter of the reinforcement at a depth of 2/3.
  3. The reinforcement is driven into the foundation of the house, for this a wood wedge is used.
  4. The foundation of the extension is formed along the driven reinforcement.

Installation according to the "plate-plate" scheme is possible in 2 cases:

  • the width of the main foundation allows you to carry out the appropriate work (from 450 mm);
  • the plate protrudes from the base (minimum 300 mm).

Thanks to the extension, it is often possible to solve another important task - to strengthen the old foundation and thereby support the sagging house. Visual video instructions:

Features of laying the foundation in the case of an old house:

Installation of the floor in the annex

Correctly making the floor in the future room is important from the point of view of 2 factors:

  • thermal insulation;
  • surface evenness.

It is important to make a quality floor, especially in cases where the extension to the house will be used as an additional room with the possibility of year-round use.

The strip foundation allows you to mount both a concrete floor and make it out of wood. In the case of a columnar base, it is possible to produce only a wooden covering.

Concrete floor

The sequence of technology for laying this floor looks like this:


The concrete surface is quite cold, so this floor needs careful insulation, especially in the northern regions.

Wooden floor

On a columnar or strip foundation, a floor created on the basis of wooden floors is excellent. It needs additional treatment to prevent rotting, but wood flooring is much warmer than concrete.

The sequence of installation of a wooden floor looks like this:

  1. If an extension to the house is being built as a permanent structure, then preparatory work is carried out for laying sand, crushed stone or expanded clay, as is the case with a concrete floor.
  2. A ruberoid substrate is placed on the foundation.
  3. Bearing beams are laid on it. If the foundation is columnar, then they are mounted directly on the poles, the length is cut in accordance with the interval. If the foundation is strip, it is important to install intermediate pillars at a certain interval, or use long beams if the extension is small in area.
  4. A wooden covering is mounted on the beams.

All wooden parts must be carefully varnished to prevent decay.

A good example of installing a wooden floor in a cinder block extension is shown in the video.

Frame installation

The next stage is connected with the direct erection of the frame structure. To do this, first of all, you need to install a strapping beam. If it is assumed that the wall thickness is 200 mm, then the dimensions of the end bar will be 25-40 mm, as shown in the detailed diagram.

The end result is a structure that looks like this.

Cutting a groove in the base can be done complete and incomplete. Can be articulated without punching using a steel angle.

The lower strapping is performed in several stages:

  1. The socket is mounted in a frame.
  2. The overlay is nailed into the base.
  3. The support stand is attached with a bracket.

The upper trim is formed for reliable installation of floor beams, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. The interval between vertical supports must be at least 50-60 cm, since in this case it will be easy to lay insulation (mineral wool, foam plastic, ecowool, etc.). In addition, there is no practical need for a more frequent arrangement of racks.

The general design of the frame is shown in the diagram.

The walls are erected according to the following algorithm:

  • Installation on the foundation of a pre-made lower trim. The binding is screwed with dowels.

    • Between the strapping and the foundations, a waterproofing layer is necessarily placed - foamed polyethylene, roofing felt or other material.

  • Vertical bars are nailed to the wall of the house if the two structures are to be rigidly fastened. If you just need to build a nearby building, then corner posts with temporary fastening are first made.
  • Mounted vertical bars. Their height is selected depending on the number of storeys of the structure, as well as on the method of connection with the main roof of the house.
  • Next, the top trim is mounted.
  • The last stage in the installation is the manufacture of holes for windows and doors.

ADVICE. If it is planned to build a large extension with a large number of beams, then it is more convenient to assemble the frame separately by installing all the beams on the lower harness. In this case, there is no need to fasten each element with temporary cuts.

Assembly of the roof and its docking with the main roof

The installation of rafters is carried out in the same way as for a conventional roof, however, the need to connect the roof to the roof of the house gives rise to a number of features of this work.

In general, the finished structure can be schematically depicted as follows.

After the construction of the frame, the material of the roof of the house from the side of the extension must be dismantled so that the rafters appear. It is to them that the connecting rafters of the extension are mounted. Installation is carried out according to the principle of a rigid triangle, while it is important to put an additional beam in front of an acute angle (indicated by arrows in the figure). These elements also serve as an additional measure of protection during snowfalls, so they are also called anti-snow supports.

The sequence of actions for installing the roof can be briefly described as follows:

  1. The rafters from the extension are mounted with the upper trim of the frame.
  2. The upper end of the rafters is connected to the purlin, which is pre-installed on the roof or mounted directly on the roof rafters.

Video editing features

NOTE. It is not necessary to connect the rafters of the extension to the house in a rigid way. This can damage the structure due to uneven shrinkage rates of the main room and extension. The optimal solution to this problem is the use of a sliding structure that provides free movement of the lower support.

Roof finishing and insulation

At this stage, the roof is completely finished with its sealing and insulation, as shown in the diagram.

NOTE. If the roof of the extension will simply adjoin the wall of the house, and not organically connect with its roof, then a sealant is used for insulation, tightly closing the hole between the roof and the wall, as shown in the diagram.

Construction and wall insulation

One of the last stages is the construction of walls and their insulation. The extension is a durable structure, and even if it is used only for household purposes, it is important to create good enough insulation so that temperature changes cannot damage the internal surfaces of the walls and ceiling.

Schematically, the structure of the wall can be represented as follows.

In fact, this is the final stage of the construction itself. Next, the following work should be carried out:

  • finishing work inside the extension:
  • exterior cladding of the building;
  • creating a transition to the house;
  • production of windows and doors in the building;
  • all necessary communications.

It is important to treat all wooden structures with special solutions that prevent rotting and the harmful effects of temperature changes.

Timber extension

The principal stages of building an extension (filling the foundation, building walls and installing a roof, followed by insulation and finishing work) do not depend on the choice of a specific construction material. However, depending on it, their own technologies are selected, which differ markedly from each other.

Foundation construction

In the case of an extension from a bar (profiled or round), the differences begin already at the stage of laying the foundation. Since the weight of the future extension will be significantly greater than the weight of the frame counterpart, respectively, the base is required to be more reliable.

A tiled foundation or a pile foundation is often used, less often a tape foundation (for small outbuildings it is quite suitable). In any case, it is necessary that it be settled for at least 1 year.

From the point of view of simplicity and cheaper work, the best option would be to create a pile foundation that can be built independently of the main foundation of the house.

Video - the basics of pile foundation installation technology

Walling

Building walls is quite simple in terms of technology. The only drawback of the beam is that it is quite heavy, and at least two people need to work with it together.

Mounting materials are used as follows:

staples and plates made of metal;

  • brackets;
  • steel corners;
  • screws, screws, nails.

The technology of laying a round beam during the construction of an extension to the house:

Other works

The technology of building walls, insulation and finishing is not fundamentally different from that described earlier.

In the case of building a structure from a bar, two-story structures can be easily made. Of course, in this case, special requirements are placed on the foundation and floors.

Brick outbuilding

Brick extensions to a wooden house are built less often. They are great for living, they can also be used as a utility room.

Most often, in such cases, a monolithic foundation is used. At the same time, a brick structure can serve as the basis for the construction of a second floor of the same kind or an attic. Installation of the floor and roof technology does not have fundamental differences from those discussed above.

cinder block extension

And another cheaper and faster option for building an extension to a wooden or other house is from cinder blocks (foam blocks, gas blocks are also used). Such a room can serve as an additional room, but is most often used for household purposes.

The construction of a cinder block structure is very fast due to the large size of the building material. This option is great if the owners want to make a garage for a car or an ordinary canopy, a veranda.

And finally - a brief video review of the main stages of the construction of a frame extension to a wooden house.

An extension to the house is an excellent solution for expanding free space in any type of dwelling. It is important that all construction work can be done independently.

Of course, this will require certain construction skills and knowledge of work technologies, but there is nothing particularly difficult about it. The help of specialists may be required at the design stage of the structure, as well as when supplying communications inside the structure. In addition, certain problems often arise when legalizing an extension in the regulatory authorities.

The attachment can perform a variety of functions.

Most often, an extension is erected to form an additional room, a summer kitchen, a garage, a veranda, a terrace, a canopy, a porch. There are a huge number of options - everything will depend on personal requirements and wishes. Of course, it will be very difficult to build something from a technological point of view, but often all construction is done by hand.

The main thing here is to correctly build the foundation, walls, roof, insulate and isolate the room from moisture, and also correctly attach the new foundation to the old one.

Types of extensions for country houses

Before starting any construction work, it is necessary to clearly determine the type of construction, because it is possible to make an extension to the house only if there is a clear plan and project. There are several most common types of extensions in our country:

canopy

This is the simplest in execution and less costly from all points of view, an extension for a country house. The main functional task of such a design is to protect people and things located under a canopy from sunlight, rain and other precipitation. Under such a canopy it will be good to relax in the warm season and dine, or you can park the car.

Canopy for a car.

An important advantage of the canopy device is that the construction of a foundation is not required, because the supporting pillars (made of metal, wood, concrete) will act as the base. The canopy frame is attached to these supports.

summer room

To form a summer room, more capital construction will be required than in the case of a canopy. Such premises are intended for relaxation in the warm season, gatherings, reading books, etc. Naturally, a foundation device is required.

It is recommended to use a columnar or strip base, depending on the type of building material and the dimensions of the room. To create walls, boards, foam concrete blocks, frame shields are usually used. For better illumination, the walls and roof, in whole or in part, can be made of glass.

Summer room.

Such an extension usually has a shed or gable roof. Roofing material is recommended to use the lightest. Installation of heat-insulating materials, as a rule, is not carried out, because such premises are not used during the cold season.

Living room

Before you attach a room to the house, you must perform all the required calculations and draw up a project. In this case, a thorough approach will be required, which involves the construction of a foundation, the capital construction of walls and roofs, the installation of waterproofing and heat-insulating materials, and the supply of all necessary communications.

Warm living room.

Particular attention is paid to the insulation of the premises, so that one could live here even in winter, without spending a lot of energy on heating.

Kitchen

As a rule, extensions are not intended for kitchen equipment. Such a structure should be capital, so it needs to be insulated as efficiently as possible.

Wooden kitchen.

It is possible to build such an extension correctly only using a high-quality project created by professionals, because the kitchen needs all communications: sewerage, water supply, electricity, gas, ventilation system. This, of course, leads to serious financial costs, which not everyone is ready for.

Garage

Using an extension to build a garage is a very common trend in recent years. A garage will require the construction of a strip or monolithic foundation, and foam concrete blocks or bricks are usually used to build walls.

Two garages.

The roof, in most cases, is made of profiled sheet or metal tiles, slate or roofing material. Mandatory communications for the garage - ventilation system and heating.

Connecting an extension to a country house

Many people choose for a long time where to attach a new room to their house, so that it is easier to connect it to the main building. There are two options to choose from here:

  • Independent building. In the event that difficult ground conditions are observed on the ground (for example, heaving soils or a high level of groundwater), it is recommended to build an independent structure that will not be connected to the main house in any way. In this case, the extension and the main structure do not have points of contact, so they do not depend on each other. At the same time, the minimum possible distance is observed between the two buildings, which is a technological gap that must be filled with heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.
  • The introduction of an extension to the design of the old building. Such a decision implies a certain laboriousness, because the construction will involve the observance of all the necessary technologies and a lot of calculations and research. First of all, it will be necessary to properly build and insulate the foundation, which must be correctly connected to the base of the country house. This is usually done with reinforced rods. According to approximately the same technology, the walls and roof of structures are connected.

Features of the construction of the roof for an extension to the house

The roof of the extension to the house can have any shape - here again everything will depend on the requirements and wishes of the owners. Along with this, most often suburban homeowners choose a shed roof, because it is simple to perform, it is easy to insulate it on your own, it goes well with other types of roofs that the main building may have, and also removes precipitation well, not allowing the entire structure to experience additional loads.

In order for precipitation from the roof of the extension to drain in normal mode, the design of the roof implies a roof slope of 20 degrees or more.

In addition, special attention must be paid to the establishment of the roof of the annex under the roof of a country house. If everything is done correctly, the wall located between the extension and the country house will be protected from water ingress through the joint between the two structures. In addition, the roof of the extension should be extremely harmoniously combined with the roofing material of the main building and harmoniously fit into the exterior of the building, without standing out from the general background.

In the design process, it is very important to correctly calculate the load that the roof structure will give. The weight of the rafters, roofing material and other structural elements used in the construction of the roof should be taken into account.

It is important to understand that an extension to a house on screw piles or pillars is not designed for too heavy loads, unlike a monolithic or strip concrete foundation. You also need to insulate the roof (you can insulate using any suitable heat-insulating materials, which are recommended to be covered with waterproofing from above).

How to legalize construction?

Building an extension to an old or new country house is half the battle. Any additional premises erected on the land plot must be documented and permission to carry out construction work must be obtained from the regulatory authorities.

An extension to the house can be done with your own hands, no one will force you to invite builders, however, the homeowner must submit to the employees of the regulatory services a well-designed building project.

The procedure for processing all documentation for an extension to an old country house usually takes from several months to a year.

An interesting point is that you can start collecting documents and obtaining a building permit after all the work has been completed. This is permitted by applicable law.

At the same time, when reviewing documents, employees of the regulatory authority may have some claims that will have to be corrected without fail (for example, the location of the building relative to underground utilities or the use of unsuitable building materials).

Consider buildings to the house and not extensions

Pergola - the simplest structure and a great place to relax.

Barbecue is a great place for receiving guests and holidays.

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