Installation of a wall valve for supply ventilation. How is the supply valve arranged, and how to install it in the wall? Instructions for the installation of the ventilation valve "DomVent"

The constructive solution of domestic supply ventilation does not imply a humidification function. Indoor air is supplied with the same humidity as outside. In a situation where there is high humidity in the room and it is dry outside, a ventilator will help to equalize the climatic conditions. If the air supply is too dry, we recommend using a humidifier.

Ventilator, air purifier, humidifier and air conditioner - what is the fundamental difference?

How often should the ventilator be turned on?

The device must work around the clock - no matter if there are people in the room or not. Human breathing is accompanied by the release of carbon dioxide - comfortable conditions for people in the room are formed by a constant influx of fresh air. Allergens, unpleasant odors, harmful substances - all this is emitted by furniture and pets even when no one is in the room. The included ventilator will provide freshness of air at what time you would not return home. We recommend turning it off only if a long absence is expected.

Is domestic supply ventilation relevant in a house with an insulated facade?

Definitely yes. But, you must first warn the installation team about this factor. This will allow specialists to install the device as competently as possible by correctly making a through hole for the air duct in the wall structure, including the facing tiles of the ventilation facade.

What approvals are needed before installing the ventilator?

There is no need to obtain any permits. Current building codes state that making holes with a diameter of less than 200 mm is not agreed with the competent authorities. From the street, they are protected by a decorative grille and the presentability of the appearance of the facade does not suffer. What can not be said about the external unit of the air conditioner.

I have a ventilation facade: how to install domestic supply ventilation?

There are 2 ways to install the system, each of which has its own nuances and specifics. Briefly, they can be described as follows:

Option 1

The hole is not made through, but only reaches the facing plate of the ventilation facade without perforation of the heat-insulating layer. In this case, air is taken from the gap between the insulation and the final facade finish. The gap size is from 40 to 100 mm.

Option #2

Air intake is carried out directly from the street. In this case, the hole is drilled through all structural layers of the wall. That is, thermal insulation breaks through, external facade decoration made of tiles, for example, porcelain stoneware. Please note that if work must be performed at a height, then an industrial climber is involved in making a hole for the domestic supply air duct.

How noisy is the ventilation fan?

The design of the device involves six operating speeds:

• 1st is characterized by a maximum sound pressure level of 19 dBA, which is significantly lower than the natural sound background of the environment in the range from 25 to 30 dBA;
• 2nd, 3rd and 4th speed - this is noise comparable to the operation of a domestic air conditioner;
• 5th and 6th speeds are recommended for active ventilation of the room.

Is noise possible from a hole in the wall under the ventilator?

Glazing of premises using metal-plastic windows, as well as external wall insulation with polymer materials often leads to a violation of natural air exchange. The supply ventilation valve can help out in this situation: its installation provides the air flow necessary for proper circulation.

Valves are very different, but the most effective is (quite rightly, by the way!) Their wall variety. Based on my experience with such devices, I will talk about what a wall valve is, how to choose one and how to install it.

Description of devices for post ventilation

Scope of wall supply valves

First, let's deal with the problem itself and how to solve it.

To ensure a normal microclimate in the room, air exchange is required, which can be divided into two processes - supply and exhaust. With the hood, everything is more or less clear: in any apartment there are ventilation openings that connect the premises with the general exhaust system of the house. The state of these communications is the second question, but at least they are present.

It is more difficult with the influx: it can only be provided by ventilation. In the houses of the old building, the supply of fresh air was realized, among other things, due to cracks in the window structures.

But plastic windows are not wooden carpentry: they are almost airtight and do not let air through. As a result, the inflow is reduced to almost zero, and the intensity of air exchange is critically reduced.

An additional barrier to the inflow is the external insulation of facades with vapor-proof materials - polystyrene foam or polystyrene.

To ensure the supply of fresh air into the room today, various ventilation devices are used:

1. Window valves.
2. Supply valves to the wall.
3. General building ventilation complexes.

In terms of throughput, wall models are superior to window models, therefore, for a cardinal solution to the problem, it is worth using them.

The wall inlet element functions quite simply:

1. The valve is installed in a through hole in the outer wall. In this case, the intake device should be located in the open air or in a ventilated space behind the skin.
2. Air enters through a system of simple filters. Due to this, before entering the room, the air masses are cleaned of the most dangerous pollutants.
3. A stable inflow through the valve stimulates air exchange. Due to the increase in inflow, natural exhaust works more actively, and air with a high carbon dioxide content is removed more intensively.

Installing a supply air device helps to solve the problem of insufficient air supply necessary for circulation. And from my point of view, this solution is one of the most effective and economical.

Basic structural elements

The ventilation valve built into the wall is quite simple. In fact, this is a pipe that connects the room with the street and is equipped with additional devices to protect against dust, debris, heat loss, as well as to purify the outside air.

The main elements of the wall inlet valve:

1. Device body- usually located indoors on the wall. It is a plastic construction of a cover and an air flow regulator. Regulators can work according to different schemes, but the principle of operation is always the same: the wider the hole inside the valve is open, the more air enters per unit of time.

1. dampers- internal elements of the flow control system. They are attached to the ventilation regulator, when turned, they open or close the gap inside the valve.
2. Filter system- mounted inside the wall. As a rule, the supply valve is equipped with a simple sponge filter that traps dust. Using more efficient filters is also possible, but this greatly reduces throughput.

Usually, when installing efficient porous filters, a suction fan is added to the design.

1. Valve duct- a hollow pipe with a diameter of 100 to 200 mm for different models and a length of up to 1 m. As a rule, the pipe is purchased with a margin in length and cut on the spot during installation - this way you can fit the device to almost any wall fence.
2. Thermal insulation inserts and casings- a system of porous pipes and rings, which is installed in the hole for mounting the valve. Inserts are made of polyurethane foam or foamed polyethylene, provide protection against freezing and help reduce heat loss during ventilation.

In addition, porous inserts reduce the noise level: in strong winds, the valve can hum, and quite loudly.

1. outer case- part of the system, which is fixed on the wall outside the building. Typically, the composition includes a ventilation grill with protection against raindrops (rain baffle), a visor and a mosquito net. The last element holds not only insects, but also poplar fluff and large debris.

For different models, the configuration of these elements may differ, and quite strongly. But in general, the scheme of the device, and hence the principle of its operation, do not change.

Benefits: 5 pros

The inlet ventilation valve installed in the wall provides us with the following advantages:

1. Efficient supply of fresh air. The performance of such models is higher than that of window models, so one or two valves per apartment are enough, and the problem with air exchange will be solved.
2. Climate optimization. The air valve not only guarantees the flow of oxygen. It also contributes to a more intensive work of the hood. This means that exhausted moist air will be removed from the room, which will help solve problems with mold and condensate.

1. Purification of incoming air. The presence of an external grille and a system of internal filters allows removing almost all mechanical impurities from the flow. With conventional window ventilation - no comparison!
2. Offline work. The system does not need electricity or other sources of energy to function - the device works solely due to the difference in pressure. This wall valve compares favorably with most ventilation systems with forced air intake.

1. Possibility of installation at any time. The installation technology of the system provides for drilling just one hole in the wall. To do this, it is not necessary to dismantle the trim, so you can install the ventilator even after repair.

Installation technology

Choosing a valve

To choose a device that will be used in the apartment, you need to pay attention to its functional parameters. For wall air handling units, the main ones will be:

1. Performance. For different models, this figure ranges from 50 to 150 m3 / h. It is better to purchase a design with a margin in volume, focusing on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

The standard for air exchange for the residential area is at least 3 m 3 / h per square meter of the area of ​​​​the apartment. So the second valve usually has to be bought in addition if the apartment has three rooms or more.

1. Possibility of adjustment air flow. Most models have a manual regulator, so that we ourselves can control the intensity of ventilation. But there are also fully automatic devices in which the damper is opened by a drive that reacts to the humidity in the room.

1. Noise isolation. The presence of this option is highly desirable, especially when built into a thick wall.
2. Thermal insulation. All devices have basic insulation, but if your house is located in the northern region, then it is advisable to purchase a model with an additional heat-insulating casing.

1. Price. The simpler the model, the cheaper it is. That is why for basic ventilation you can find a device for 2-3.5 thousand rubles. More modern models cost from 5 to 12 thousand, but in addition to air intake, they can also regulate its flow and provide effective cleaning.

What is needed for installation?

When installing the supply damper into the wall, we will bear the costs not only for the purchase of the ventilator itself. Installation using specialized equipment will cost about 3 to 5 thousand rubles, depending on the region and the complexity of the work. If you have access to the equipment, then you can save money by installing the structure yourself.

For installation we need:

1. High power hammer drill or stationary wall drill.
2. Drill rod with a bit that matches the diameter of the valve mounting hole.

1. Industrial vacuum cleaner (especially if the installation is carried out in a clean area, that is, where repairs have already been made).

1. Screwdriver.
2. Crosshead screwdriver.
3. Measuring tools - level, tape measure, plumb line.
4. Knife for cutting insulation.

You also need to consider that installing a wall valve with your own hands is a noisy and dusty job. Therefore, for protection, we acquire:

1. Glasses.
2. Gloves.
3. Mask or respirator with dust filter.
4. Construction headphones.

It will not be superfluous to warn the neighbors - in order to avoid!

Hole preparation, installation and connection of valves

The instructions for installing a wall valve are quite simple - it is almost impossible to confuse anything. It is important to choose the right place for installation (under the windowsill above the radiator or to the side of the window) and strictly follow the work algorithm.

The valve is mounted like this:

Illustration	Installation stage
	Removing the outer casing. If the facade of the building is finished with hinged panels, then we will temporarily dismantle the trim element opposite the valve installation site. In the future, it can be installed in place - the air intake will be carried out from the gap between the wall and the casing.
	Markup. We apply the base of the valve to the selected area and apply markings on the wall, which we will be guided by when drilling.
	"Trap" for garbage. Under the hole we glue a plastic bag into which pieces of concrete will fall. From above or from the side we fix the hose of an industrial vacuum cleaner, which will capture the dust generated during drilling.
	Start drilling. Using a diamond crown, we drill a starting hole with a depth of 70-100 mm. We remove the broken fragments of concrete from the hole. We insert a chisel into the hole and knock out a shallow notch in the center, which will facilitate the positioning of the drill. It is advisable to make both the starting hole and the entire channel with a slight outward slope - this way we will protect ourselves from moisture leakage.
	Drilling holes for installation. Using a concrete drill, we form a hole for the sleeve of the ventilation valve. To reduce overheating of the tool, periodically moisten the work area. When drilling, do not turn off the vacuum cleaner to avoid getting into the air a large amount of dust. In order not to knock out part of the outer wall, we pass the last few centimeters at low speeds. To do this, on the drill we make a mark along the length.
	Hole cleaning. We insert the vacuum cleaner into the drilled groove and remove all dust and concrete fragments from there.
	Installation of thermal insulation. We insert a casing made of polyurethane or foamed polyethylene into the drilled hole. We cut off the excess material close to the wall.
	Sleeve installation. We insert the air duct of the ventilation valve into the hole with a heat-insulating casing. We advance the duct with screwing movements until it exits from the outside of the wall.
	Installation of the outer hood. Outside, we install a ventilation grill with a cap and a mosquito net on the sleeve. The design should be located close to the wall. When installing the outer parts of the ventilation above the second floor, be sure to use insurance!
	Mounting markup. We apply the valve body to the installed sleeve, level it and mark the attachment points on the wall.
	Fastener installation. According to the marking, we drill holes in the wall with a minimum diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 40 mm. We hammer plastic dowels into the holes.
	Housing fastening. We fix the case on the wall by screwing self-tapping screws with wide caps into the dowels. For greater reliability, a wide washer can be placed under each hat.
	Installation of the main part of the device. We install a damper for adjusting the air flow and an anti-dust filter in the body and sleeve. We close the structure with a lid.

This completes the installation of the wall inlet valve. Checking the system's performance is very simple - just bring a burning candle to the vent. The air flow will either deflect the flame or blow it out altogether.

Conclusion

By correctly mounting the ventilation valve in the wall, we can solve a number of problems with the microclimate of the room and normalize air exchange. But this task is very laborious, so before you undertake its implementation, carefully read the instructions and watch the video in this article. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the comments.

If there is a lack of fresh air in the house, the microclimate is oversaturated with fumes and smells from the kitchen, and excess dampness condenses on metal products and window panes, then ventilation must be added. To do this, you will need to additionally mount a ventilation valve in the wall. This simple device that works autonomously has a number of advantages, providing additional portions of fresh air even in a house where windows and doors are closed.

Properties of supplementary ventilation systems

People with good health do not always pay attention to the fact that the house is stuffy and there is not enough oxygen, and excess moisture does not allow breathing normally. Children and weakened people suffer the most from lack of oxygen, but stale air is not good for anyone. And if in summer most people use open windows or transoms, then the minimum winter ventilation provided for plastic windows is not enough.

A vent valve in the wall is usually installed in the kitchen, especially if there is no hood above the stove. If the window opens periodically, and other ventilation is not enough, then the air is “heavy” or musty, everything is saturated with the smells of the kitchen, there is condensation on the windows. In such conditions, dampness starts in the house, and even clean woolen clothes seem damp in the morning, and synthetics are saturated with smoke, fumes and home smells.

Keeping the window open all the time is also not always convenient - cold air and noise from the window penetrates, especially when the house is located near the highway. In apartment buildings, general ventilation is provided, and in private houses it can be successfully replaced by local ventilation, supplemented by a plastic ventilation valve. A good ventilation system will provide:

• oxygen supply;
• enhanced air circulation;
• airflow regulation;
• pushes the stale air out.

Today, several varieties of a ventilation valve are offered for sale for an additional influx of fresh air, which is easy to install in a house with your own hands. The supply ventilation valve (from the word "inflow" of air) can be installed in an apartment or in a house. This device operates autonomously, without electricity, allowing slightly heated outside air into the living space, but does not let in precipitation and environmental pollution, insects, allergens and noise from the street. The valve is installed using ordinary household tools - at the stage of construction and repair work or at completion. It can be installed:

• directly at the heating system;
• at the ceiling;
• in the space where the most stagnant air (pantry, bathroom corridor near the kitchen).

Tip: Apartment buildings are usually equipped with ventilation. But if there is high humidity in the apartment or offices on the ground floor, then it is worth installing a supply valve in the room farthest from the ventilation shaft near the central heating battery. It will not be visible behind the window shade or under the blinds, but will significantly change the situation for the better. It is also worth monitoring the temperature in an apartment with high humidity - the colder, the more damp you feel, the more likely it is that mold and fungi will appear.

Equipment selection

A plastic vent valve is the easiest way to provide extra air circulation. There are valves for installation in the wall of the house under the window near the radiator and a winter ventilation valve for windows.

Attention: The tightness of the window can be easily broken if the window valve is not correctly installed, at the same time losing the right to warranty service from the manufacturer. It is difficult to mount the KMV or KPV damper into the wall - due to drilling a hole, but for self-arrangement of supply ventilation this is the most acceptable option.

Valve device:

• decorative cover for indoor installation, regulating the air flow;
• filter washer;
• soundproofing block;
• plastic cylinder-air duct;
• external grill-air distributor;
• closed external valve with rain protection.

When choosing a supply valve model, it is imperative to find out the temperature range allowed for its full operation, the dimensions of the cylinder and outer covers. It is imperative to clarify whether the length of the cylinder (internal block) is enough to pierce through the outer wall of the house. And the size of the ventilation valve cover must be suitable for placement between the heating radiator and the window sill.

If the heating is weak, then in cold climates, the volume of fresh air entering through the wide valve may be too much, and they will not have time to warm up. On the other hand, if there is too little air coming from forced ventilation, then sometimes 2 valves have to be installed.

Tip: With a large throughput of the equipment and without a valve control system with a switch, it is undesirable to place them on opposite walls. This can cause drafts in winter, when the difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures causes ventilation to function most actively.

It is also important to think ahead about costs. If you buy a domestic ventilation valve - the price ranges from 1.5 to 3 thousand rubles. The price of an imported device for forced ventilation can be offered 1.5 - 2 times more expensive. If you hire a craftsman with a tool, he will deliver it in 30-45 minutes, but for this you will have to pay at least half of its cost for installation work. If you decide to buy a ventilation valve in the wall in an imported version, you should try to save money by installing it yourself.

Preparing the room for the installation of the ventilation valve

For the full functioning of ventilation in the house, an additional air supply is required, for example, through a special valve or other means of ventilation (open transoms, vents). Before installing the supply ventilation valve, it is important to check in the building how the general ventilation system works, it must be provided. To check the ventilation, open the windows and bring a sheet of paper to the ventilation grill - it should “stick”, that is, be pulled into a niche. Dealing with issues of arranging ventilation at home, first of all, it is worth cleaning the general ventilation.

Attention: It is not recommended to check the ventilation with a candle or a match, although this is effective. If the house uses gas heating, then an open flame provokes an emergency! This is especially facilitated by gas leakage during strong gusts of wind and open fire near the ventilation shaft!

Supply ventilation in an apartment on the upper floors is most conveniently mounted on a balcony. The ventilation valve or monobloc is a compact way to provide ventilation, which is complemented by an internal soundproof gasket, a filter and a mosquito net. The outer part is equipped with a device (rain baffle) so that precipitation does not fall through it.

Attention: During installation, it is necessary to mount the system correctly - with the socket down, moisture must not accumulate there.

1. Individual installation of the valve is applicable for one room, because it has a small capacity. The main advantage is ease of installation.

2. The duct installation assumes an air duct network with the installation of ventilation grilles. The main disadvantage is that it is important to think over the location so as not to spoil the interior design without compromising the full functioning of the system.

For the installation of additional ventilation, 2 types of supply valves are used with the same function - launching fresh air into the room. The KPV 125 valve differs from the KIV 125 only in marking and some details of the external plugs.

Supply valve selection

KIV 125 (air infiltration valve) or KPV 125 (forced ventilation valve) is mounted in the wall. Both models are similar in functionality. A cylindrical design, which is selected slightly wider than the wall in order to secure the covers at both ends. Visually, only a head with a traction force regulator inside and a rain baffle outside will be noticeable. Inside there is a seal for soundproofing with air holes and filters with gratings. The switch is designed to regulate the intensity of the outside air entering the room. It can be opened completely or completely shut off the air supply for a while.

The main advantages of the infiltration valve:

• works autonomously, control is not required;
• does not spoil the appearance of the interior;
• Do-it-yourself installation of KPV is available;
• installation is possible both before repair and after it;
• the air from the valve warms up at the radiator (battery);
• effective for filtering the air coming from outside;
• does not pass insects;
• traps dust, fumes and other fine particles from the street.

KIV is most often used in a house where a general forced ventilation system is already provided, and the valve serves to supply fresh air. It does not have a significant effect on lowering the temperature in heated rooms if it is installed directly at the central heating radiators. In some ways, the valve looks like a mini-window with filters and a grill, but without glasses. It can also be installed in rooms without windows or radiators, such as in a pantry or hallway.

If the cylinder valve is too long, it is cut from the outside and closed with a mesh grille. The part that goes into the room must have heat and sound insulation, as well as a filter, which is closed by an aesthetic plastic head with a damper and a regulator.

The outer bell has a grille and slanted louvres to protect against atmospheric precipitation, and a fine mosquito net protects against the entry of all types of insects. Nets and bars keep flies, spiders and mosquitoes, as well as poplar fluff, pollen and other allergens, which usually freely enter the apartment through open windows. The valve has also been successfully tested for noise protection and lower temperature threshold.

The base of the valve can be cut off, depending on the thickness of the walls where it is inserted, but the standard format of the plastic air inlet cylinder is between 40 cm and 1 mm.

The soundproofing layer is placed on the inside of the wall, always close to the external regulator. The internal air flow regulator or cap is made of impact-resistant white plastic. It is resistant to temperature extremes and consists of:

• regulatory node;
• washable replacement filter;
• outer cover;
• knobs-regulator;
• seals and gaskets for thermal insulation.

This head in the design of the cylinder is quite tight, and the valve is fixed with screws to the wall - for the holes of the seal. Details can be found in the instructions that came with the valve upon purchase. The intensity regulator can be closed with a handle or with a cord.

Features of installation of supply ventilation valves

Before installing the ventilation valve, it is important to choose the right place:

• it should not be conspicuous;
• it is desirable that the air coming from the outside have additional heating along the way;
• usually mounted in a load-bearing wall;
• it is undesirable to install with access to a zone with unfavorable environmental conditions and in the direction of the industrial zone;
• in a multi-storey building, it is most convenient to mount a valve with access to a loggia or balcony.

1. Drill a hole in the wall of the required diameter along the intended contour - slightly wider than the throughput cylinder, so that it passes freely and takes a horizontal position. We select the length of the valve according to the thickness of the bearing wall - from 0.4 to 1 meter.

2. The placement of the valve does not have to be strictly horizontal, it can be tilted slightly outwards. And it is better to additionally wrap it in insulating material.

3. After placing the valve air duct, we fill all the cracks around the main structural part with mounting foam.

4. We close the outer end with a rain deflector - bell down, so that atmospheric precipitation and condensate do not penetrate into the ventilation cylinder.

Tip: If there is no ready-made valve and its analogue is made independently, then a hole is drilled under the plastic pipe at an angle - outward down, and apart from the mosquito net, nothing is placed outside. This makes sense when installing supply ventilation with access to a balcony or loggia protected from precipitation. But at the same time, the inside is provided with a porous filter and a lid.

Maintenance of the external air supply valve is minimal - the filter is washed with water 1-2 times a year. If the general ventilation is not working properly, then the operation of the valve is minimal - air movement is possible only due to the temperature difference in the house and outside.

A. - There are several nuances here. It is necessary to take into account both the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the number of people living in it. On average, for a room up to 16 square meters with up to 2 people living in it, if they are not there 24 hours a day, one Domvent valve is enough. If the room is larger / more people, or someone is constantly at home, it is better to put 2 valves. Valves are recommended to be installed in all residential premises and, if necessary, in the kitchen.

Q. - Due to what does it work?

A. - In the bathroom/toilet and in the kitchen there are ventilation shaft outlets that lead to the roof. Due to the pressure difference at the ends of the ventilation shaft, air is sucked out of the apartment. And the higher the ventilation shaft, the stronger the thrust. In the heating season, the temperature difference is also added (therefore, in summer the draft of ventilation ducts is worse than in winter). An area of ​​low pressure is created in the apartment, and when a window is opened, micro-ventilation or a valve is installed, air enters the apartment.

Q. - What does it look like from the outside?

A. - Outside, under the tide, there is a gray round grating, only 6 cm in diameter, which is difficult to see even from the fifth floor. It can be painted in the color of the facade.

B. - When cold air from the street meets warm air in the room, condensation will form. Where will he fall? And will the fur coat grow in the pipe of the supply valve, and then flow out onto the facade in the summer?

A. - Condensation does not form on our device, and we will explain why. As you have noticed, condensate falls at the meeting point of cold and humid warm air. In this device, this place is in the air above the battery, so there will be no condensation.

The second possible location: on the surface of the device. But condensate does not form there, because. the block is washed by a warm stream from the battery and is also insulated from the inside.

The third place where condensation occurs: inside the tube - impossible, because. You yourself noticed in it there is no second condition: warm, moist air.

From the street comes only cold dry air. And since with properly functioning ventilation, the air only goes inward, we have considered all the options.

In case of incorrect installation (for example, not above the battery), turning off the heating, etc. condensation may form on the surface of the valve, which is eliminated by closing (or reducing) the damper of the indoor unit.

Q. - Do I need to install a valve in the kitchen? After all, there is also a lot of humidity.

A. - We recommend installing the Domvent ventilation valve in the kitchen, especially in small apartments, but only after installation in all living rooms. Because The natural ventilation system works as follows: fresh air enters the living quarters, passes through corridors and is removed in the kitchen or WC/bathroom. Therefore, if you install a sufficient number of valves in the rooms, the ventilation of the kitchen will increase and, accordingly, the humidity will decrease. In each case, it is better to consult a home ventilation specialist.

Q. - Is your system suitable for a private house or cottage?

A. - For a country house, our system is ideal, because. in any house there is exhaust ventilation, as well as stoves and fireplaces, which also work to remove stuffy air. For a comfortable stay, only 7-10 Domvent ventilation valves are needed per cottage (they are easily installed in one day). They do not make noise, which is especially important in suburban living, and will please with the cost in comparison with complex systems.

Q. - Is it possible to install your Home Ventilation if I live on the 1st floor and is it dangerous? Will all the exhaust gases from cars go to my apartment?

A. - On the contrary, replacing open windows with a "Home ventilation" system will make your apartment impregnable for thieves to enter.
And the DOMVENT ventilation valve will retain poplar fluff, insects, part of the dust and constantly ventilating your apartment will not allow harmful substances from furniture, building materials to accumulate in it and, which is very important for the first floor, will not allow odors and harmful substances rising from the basement to accumulate!

Q. - Explain how to calculate how many DOMVENT valves are needed for sufficient ventilation in the room?

A. - The DOMVENT ventilation valve is placed under each window of the living space (first in the rooms, then, if necessary, in the kitchen). Under normal operating conditions, one valve is enough for 15-17 m2 of a room. But if you have a lot of people or not very good natural draft (for example, the last floor), then you need to install two ventilation valves. Just keep in mind the size and power of the battery. For a one-room apartment, we recommend at least 2 domvents (or two in the room, or one in the room and one in the kitchen). If you are in doubt, send us a description of your apartment and we will help you.

Q. - Is it possible to install a ventilation system without drilling a hole in the wall?

A. - The Home Ventilation System, like any other natural ventilation system, works according to the following principle: it starts fresh outside air and removes polluted internal air into the ventilation shafts. Therefore, an influx of fresh air from outside is necessary, i.e. opening to the street is a must.
But don't let that scare you, because. Today, this operation of drilling a hole by an experienced craftsman takes 5-10 minutes (the entire installation of the Domvent ventilation valve will take about an hour) and, practically, without dust, this is permitted by law and does not pose any threat to the supporting structures.

Q. - And how to check the operation of the exhaust channels yourself? How to determine in advance whether a door valve will be needed, or can be dispensed with (and what will happen if you just do not close the door)?

A. - Ventilation check:
Open the window and door in the bathroom, apply an A4 sheet to the exhaust vent. If he "stuck", then all is well. If not, then:
We tear off a fine-mesh mesh from under the grill (which gets clogged with dust in two weeks and therefore does not let air through (and, in principle, is not needed), if there is a fan, then we buy a double grill (part of the grill, part of the place under the fan), so that the air passes into the ventilation duct and with the fan turned off.
We call the management company (ZHEK, HOA, etc.), they should fix it for free.
Compared to an open door, the door valve is more comfortable (keeps quiet), instead of it you can put simple door bars or a gap under the door of at least 1 cm.
If the door is not closed, then when you, for example, wash yourself, all the moisture (all the steam) will go into the apartment and increase the humidity in the entire apartment, which is not good for the home climate. Yes, and it will not be very comfortable for you to wash, and for the children to sleep at this time.
If there are grilles at the bottom of a closed door, air from the apartment will enter the bathroom below and wet steam will be discharged into the ventilation grill at the top, but it will not go into the apartment.
In the kitchen and toilet, the situation is similar in all respects.

Q. - The neighbors were doing repairs and blocked all the ventilation outlets for us, will your device help in this situation? There is simply nothing to breathe in the apartment!

A. - In such a situation, you need to contact the management company (or housing cooperative) serving your home with an application to eliminate the poor performance (or non-operation) of ventilation shafts. And the housing cooperative should find out the problem and fix it (not you and your neighbor, but they themselves). Otherwise, sue the HOA. Without normally working exhaust ducts, Home ventilation will be ineffective.
Our masters, coming to the installation, first of all check the operation of the exhaust ducts and, in case of poor performance, either immediately fix the problem, or, if it is not immediately possible, give recommendations on how to solve the problem.
Often there is a situation when the tenants of the house installed a ventilation grill with a mosquito net (they are sold in a set), which in 2 months is tightly clogged with dust and stops letting air through. Cleaning or removing this mesh usually solves this problem.

Q. - Will it not turn out that midges and insects will get into my apartment along with the air?

Oh no. A mosquito net is built into the design of the noise absorber, which will protect you from insects and poplar fluff. By removing the cover once a year (for example, when washing windows) with one finger (even with wet hands), you can easily remove the muffler and shake it out or even rinse it. It will take 1 minute of your time.

Q. - Tell me, can the installation of such a valve cause drafts?

O. - No, it can't! The fact is that the air volume of 13 m 3 / hour coming out of the DOMVENT ventilation valve, unlike open transoms, is completely heated on the radiator and rises warm and cannot create a draft.

The wall supply valve provides fresh air from the street without opening windows, protects against street noise and dust, and eliminates excessive humidity.

ventilation wall valve"Domvent" is installed above the battery. Thanks to this, the air in the house remains fresh and warm even in the most severe frosts, and the windows can be kept closed all the time. Recognized quality, low price and excellent technical characteristics wall valve favorably distinguish it from other supply valves.

The principle of operation of the device

Through the outer grille, outdoor air enters the noise absorber of the wall inlet damper through a plastic pipe. Due to its labyrinthine shape, it produces a coarse air filtration and ensures the absence of noise and dust in the room.

Then, flowing in the longitudinal direction to the heating radiator, the air is heated to a temperature close to room temperature. Smoothly moving the damper, you can adjust the air flow.

Advantages:

• low prices;
• the possibility of self-installation;
• ease of operation (even a child can handle the controls);
• the filter is easy to clean, its replacement is not required;
• air heating (the valve works even at -50°С);
• protection against drafts, noise and dust;
• does not consume electricity.

1. Valve body with cover - 180x85x84 mm
2. Muffler with mosquito net
3. Tube - length 65 cm, Ø40 mm
4. Pipe insulation
5. Decorative grille - Ø60 mm
6. Dowel-nails - 6x60 - 4 pcs

Installation options for the DomVent valve

Instructions for the installation of the ventilation valve "DomVent"

It should be noted that the valve will operate at a high quality level only if the room:

• natural or forced exhaust ventilation is functioning properly;
• free movement of air between the rooms of the house, apartment or office is ensured (there are no interior doors with a hermetic porch). If this rule is violated, it is necessary to install ventilation grilles on the doors or create a two-centimeter gap between the door leaf and the floor.

To organize the flow of fresh air into the building (both residential and non-residential), supply ventilation valves (ventilators) are now often selected.

By location, the most common are wall models - mounted in an outer wall.

Design Description

Wall inflows, regardless of the model, composed of the following elements:

Air duct. A pipe through which air passes from the street to the room. The vast majority of models have a plastic air duct.

External ventilation grill. Prevents precipitation from entering the duct. Made from plastic or metal.

The inner case is a head (made of plastic, usually delivered unassembled). Contains a filter, directs the air flow into the room. Made from plastic.

Supply wall valve device

Inside the duct there may be a heater-noise insulator. It is necessary so that the wall around the pipe does not freeze, as well as to reduce street noise.

Polyfoam usually acts as a heater. The parts described above can be purchased separately, and you can make a homemade ventilator with your own hands, which will cost a little less than buying a finished product.

If the ventilation wall valve has the ability to be adjusted, the regulator is located in the inner case (head). Some models (Aereco EHT) are additionally equipped with a hygroregulation system. It reacts to the humidity of the air inside the room, and opens the valve when a certain indicator is exceeded.

More complex air handling units (for example, the Eco Freshness line of models) can be additionally equipped with the following elements:

Recuperator (air heater).

Humidity and / or air temperature sensors - for automating the operation of the device.

Remote electronic control panel (with the help of which the fan and/or heater are turned on/off).

Purpose of the product

The task of the supply ventilation valve is to provide a person (as well as animals and plants) with enough air to breathe, and to prevent the appearance of mold in the room.

Wall valve kit

If there is no constant flow of fresh air into the room (and about 30 cubic meters per hour is required for 1 person), the body does not receive the proper amount of oxygen. In addition, stuffiness leads to moisture condensation on the window slopes, frame and window sill, which over time can lead to the development of mold.

The wall air damper is able to supply a sufficient amount of fresh air: under normal conditions (if the pressure drop is 10 Pa), about 25-30 m³ / h flows through most models. Just as much as required by sanitary standards for 1 person. If the pressure drop is greater, the amount of incoming air will also increase.

Principle of operation and check of ventilation ducts

Air from the street enters through the ventilator, since the pressure in the room is lower than outside. Such conditions (pressure drop) are created due to the operation of exhaust ventilation in the room: an exhaust hood or a simple ventilation duct.

An important point to be taken into account: if the exhaust ventilation works poorly, then the ventilator will also produce less air (since the difference will be less than the norm, or it will not exist at all). Therefore, before planning the installation of an inlet ventilation valve, you should make sure that the exhaust ventilation is functioning properly.

Normal draft of the ventilation duct

To check the operation of the ventilation duct, necessary:

Open a window (or a window, or a balcony, the main thing is that there should be an influx of fresh air).

Bring a lit match or lighter to the ventilation grille.

With a normally working exhaust ventilation, the flame should “pull” into the channel. If this does not happen, or if the flame, on the contrary, deviates from the grate, then there is no draft, and the ventilation in the apartment is disrupted.

Instead of an open flame, you can check the operation of the ventilation duct with an ordinary piece of paper (best of all, toilet paper, since it is thin and light). A small piece must be attached to the ventilation grille. Ideally, the paper should be attracted: in this case, the exhaust ventilation works fine.

The verification methods mentioned above may be useless in summer, in hot weather. Air in hot weather is heavier than in cool weather, and therefore the pressure in the ventilation duct drops. Therefore, even normally working ventilation may not attract fire (or paper).

About the pros and cons of using

The use of a wall ventilator is a useful solution for several reasons:

there is no need to open and close the window often (which means that the fittings, designed for an average of 10,000 movements, do not wear out);

less noise comes through the valve than through an open window (due to the filter and insulation in the duct);

it is possible to adjust the amount of incoming air (there are no regulators, mainly only on the cheapest models);

installation near the battery or at the top of the wall avoids sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter;

Head of the supply valve in the room

relative cheapness (1 set of valve and its installation by specialists in total will cost about 3-5 thousand rubles).

As for the last point: when installing a ventilation valve near the battery, the air will heat up from it. In the second case (if the valve is mounted at the top of the wall), the air will enter the room from above and mix with the room (warmer).

More expensive models of inlets can be additionally equipped with recuperators (heaters) and fans. Fans can be both exhaust and supply. Such installations are more efficient, however, and cost at least 8-10 times more expensive than conventional ventilation valves (for example, prices for Eco-Freshness, which has a fan and heating, start at 15,000 rubles).

There are also disadvantages:

the need to make a hole in the wall (if you want to remove the inflow after some time, there will be a through hole to the street);

mistakes made during installation can lead to the fact that the wall (the area between the hole and the slope) will freeze, or some part of the duct will freeze in winter;

in regions that are too cold (where the temperature drops below -10 ° for a long time), it will not be possible to use the supply in winter, because it will be very cold in the room;

models without a fan can produce on average about 30 m³ / h of air (which is normal for 1 person in a room).

Types and differences

All wall tributaries differ in several ways:

What does the ventilator look like from the outside (from the street) and from the inside (from the room)

With manual adjustment of the amount of passing air or without adjustment.

By the presence or absence of an automatic control system.

By the presence or absence of soundproofing of the duct.

If it is possible or impossible to install additional accessories.

If it is possible or impossible to completely close the valve.

By duct diameter.

The amount of air passing through.

Otherwise, the differences are only in the device of the internal (located in the apartment) case and the appearance of the elements.

As a special case, there are differences in the shape and material of the duct. For all models, it is a plastic pipe. Only SVK V-75 M differs - this wall damper has an air duct made of expanded polystyrene and has a rectangular shape. It is located directly under the windowsill.

Ventilator models

The number of models is now considerable. Here are the specific names:

Installation nuances

In addition to the above-mentioned model SVK V-75 M, other supply ventilation wall dampers can be mounted in any place on the outer wall. However the most successful are the following areas:

Under the windowsill, next to the battery.

At the level of 2/3 of the height of the window opening (for an ordinary apartment - at a height of about 1.8-2 meters from the floor).

In the first case, the air entering inside is immediately heated from the battery. In the second, it enters the upper part of the room, where it mixes with warm air. Both options are good because this arrangement allows you to hide the wall valve behind the curtains.

The only requirement that should be taken into account in the second case is that there must be at least 30 centimeters from the location of the supply valve in the wall to the window slope. Otherwise, this area may freeze in winter.

Installation steps

To install the supply valve into the wall (we will consider the installation process for valves with a round air duct, you can read about the installation of the SVK V-75 M separately) you will need:

Installation of diamond drilling.

Hacksaw (for cutting the duct if necessary).

Glue (if the outer grille is glued to the duct) or a screwdriver (if it is bolted).

Unnecessary rags or plastic sheeting - to cover the floor in the work area.

Protective equipment for eyes and respiratory organs (against flying dust during drilling).

Stages of installing a ventilation valve in a wall

Installation performed in the following sequence:

The place of installation of the ventilator is selected, taking into account the rules mentioned above.

A hole is drilled in the wall. It should have a slight slope (3-4 degrees) towards the street - so that moisture does not accumulate when it enters the duct.

Holes are drilled for self-tapping screws (for fixing the inner case).

The air duct is “trying on”: the pipe is inserted into the hole, and the desired length is marked.

Excess pipe - cut off at the mark.

A noise insulator is installed inside the duct (if it is included in the kit; if not, it is recommended to buy a pipe insulation “shell” of the required diameter on your own and use it as sound insulation).

The pipe is inserted into the hole.

Outside, a ventilation grill is attached to the pipe (with glue or bolts). Its blinds should be directed down towards the street, and located horizontally.

The inner case is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Assemble the inner case.

Care and maintenance

For cleaning, it is necessary to dismantle the inner housing and remove the filter and noise insulator. It is recommended to do this in the warm season so that the cold wind does not blow into the room (or the hole will have to be sealed).

Wall valve maintenance

If the filter and insulator are made of synthetics (and this is the case for most models), they can be washed in soapy water. After that, without fail, they must dry.

You also need to pay attention to the cleanliness of the air duct inside: you can look inside while the filter and insulation dry. If there is a large layer of dust or small debris inside, you can remove it with a vacuum cleaner. Alternatively, you can remove the outer grate and blow the pipe with a vacuum cleaner.

If the temperature in the room begins to drop significantly in winter (usually this happens when the temperature outside the window is below -10º and / or when the wind is strong), it is recommended to reduce the air flow through the valve (if there is a possibility of adjustment).

Ventilation supply valve in the wall (wall)

Inlet valve to the wall: description of the device. Rules, steps for installing a supply valve in a wall.

Using the wall damper for fresh air ventilation

For the past 7 years, hermetic windows made of PVC, wood or aluminum have been especially popular in residential premises. They led to very specific complications in the field of creating an ideal indoor climate. The use of windows with 2–3 seals absolutely excludes the inflow of fresh air into the premises, which was previously present due to the presence of gaps.

Air inlet valve

It is possible to correct and normalize the internal microclimate only if you use a wall inlet valve of manual or automatic control.

Types of ventilation devices

Installation of a forced ventilation system involves the use of 2 different designs of supply devices. It should be noted that each design is used in accordance with the requirements of the tenant and provides the room with fresh air.

For this reason, almost every modern valve is additionally equipped with a special filter that helps to retain small and large contaminants, as well as the penetration of moisture into the room.

Types of ventilation systems

To date, there are 2 types of devices:

1. Wall mounted structure. This model is the most common and easy to implement. Visually, such a device is a through pipe in the wall, which is closed from the outside only by a ventilation grill. Behind such a lattice, in the wall itself, systems of additional filtration and sound insulation are often installed. It should be noted that on the inside the hole has a larger diameter, which ensures the supply of fresh air of the required volume.
2. Ventilation valve built into the window structure of a modern window. Such ventilation systems are referred to as simpler devices, which in no way affects their performance. The only difference and disadvantage from the wall-mounted ones is the inability to install filters.

The regulation of the air flow of such systems is carried out using a special knob, which allows, if necessary, to block the air supply.

Advantages of forced ventilation

Forced ventilation system has a lot of advantages, including:

• enhanced air circulation;
• the ability to regulate the speed of air movement;
• removal of air pollution.

Rationality of use

If modern double-glazed windows are installed in the room, then air regulation is completely violated and leads to the accumulation of carbon dioxide, water vapor as a result of human activity.

The design and dimensions of the valve KIV Quadro

The disadvantages of this method are: sudden changes in internal temperature, the penetration of dirt and dust from the outside, the disappearance of soundproofing properties during ventilation; a sharp temperature drop for plants, lack of process control and saving thermal resources.

The same disadvantages exist in the slot ventilation mode, despite the more loyal method of window depressurization.

Criterias of choice

In order to provide access to fresh air without compromising the soundproofing properties of windows, ventilation dampers are installed today, which must be selected according to certain criteria:

• Price. The cost of a valve, as a rather complex engineering device, can reach one third of the price of the window itself. However, it is worth considering that for normal and long-term operation, you should buy an expensive and proven valve.

• Installation area. Modern models of supply valves can be installed directly on the window or through the adjacent wall. It should be noted that installing the valve through the wall will cost more to install and may spoil the aesthetic facade of the building.

Humidity damper Controlled air flow depending on the level of relative humidity inside the room

If we consider the installation of the valve directly on the package, then 2 different options for possible installation are formed:

1. Replacing the old double-glazed window with a new smaller window and installing a valve in the resulting gap.
2. Installing a valve in an existing modern double-glazed window.

• valve control method. Modern models of ventilation valves are of 2 types: manual or automatic control. Manually controlled units require constant monitoring of various parameters that affect indoor air quality.

• With automatic control, everything is much simpler, since all processes occur regardless of external influences and desires. The process of regulating and normalizing the climate in the room is carried out by means of indicators of humidity and temperature in space.

• Noise protection level. To date, all models of ventilation valves have their own level of noise protection, which must be selected in accordance with the installed windows and the needs of residents.

• Compliance with established air exchange standards. Each valve installed must provide air flow in accordance with established standards.

• Operability in severe conditions. Due to the fact that the manufacture of the device is carried out in fear with a not so harsh climate, the design of the valves may have some shortcomings in a particularly cold season. A striking example of such a disadvantage is the presence of condensate and its further freezing at extremely low temperatures.

The appearance of condensate or frost on the valve, first of all, depends on the temperature and humidity on the inside and outside of the window, the implementation of air flows and operating modes.

Installation of forced ventilation

Before starting work, you must determine the location of the device. The most common location option is the location in close proximity to the heating system.

Installation of a wall valve can be done both with your own hands and with the help of qualified specialists. The first stage of work is drilling a hole in the load-bearing wall. After the wall is installed, all gaps are filled with special construction foam.

To carry out the installation yourself, you will need: a white outer mesh with special holes that provide access to the room, a pipe, a high-quality sound insulator and a set of special filters, a ventilation grill with a mosquito net.

Installing forced ventilation is the only right solution for sane and self-care people. Such a small and inconspicuous design can significantly improve the quality of life for people.

Wall supply ventilation valve

The wall inlet damper is the ideal solution for fresh air in a closed room. Classification of installations, advantages and installation.

Inlet valve into the wall: principle of operation, features of installation and operation

Modern technologies make our home more and more airtight. Metal-plastic windows, laminated surfaces and stretch ceilings interfere with natural ventilation, due to which dampness and mold develop in houses. Households suddenly begin to suffer from allergies and frequent respiratory diseases - this is also a side effect of the complete sealing of the house. Stagnant air is replete with allergens, pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms actively multiply in it. That is why it is important to install a supply valve into the wall, which will provide access to street air into the room and at the same time prevent drafts from appearing.

The supply valve is a simple device for ventilation

Why is it needed and how does a supply valve into the wall work?

The main purpose of the supply unit is to provide fresh air access to the room. Under the condition of normal operation, the air supply unit passes an average of up to thirty cubic meters of air per hour into the room, which corresponds to the physiological needs of one person.

The device does not take up much space and is hardly noticeable

The device consists of several elements:

• Air tube. Usually this part of the device is made of plastic.
• Grille (metal or plastic) to protect the outside of the duct.
• Inner insert with cap and air filter.

Some devices are equipped with an additional noise insulator and insulation. These additional elements do not allow the supply ventilation valve in the wall to freeze in severe frosts and block street noise.

Another additional feature that is not present in all models is humidity control.

The hygroregulation system automatically opens the valve if there is an excess of standard humidity readings in the room.

The supply and exhaust valve can also be additionally equipped with:

• fan;
• temperature sensors;
• air recovery system;
• remote control.

The principle of operation of the device

Advantages and disadvantages of a wall inlet valve

Like any device, the ventilator has its undoubted advantages and disadvantages, which cannot be ignored. First about the good:

• With the use of the device, the need for constant opening and closing of windows is significantly reduced. This saves time and saves window mechanisms.
• The device acts as a noise insulator and filters the air from toxic urban impurities.
• The device has control functions, it can be adjusted to the needs of a particular home.
• Installation of the ventilator in the area of ​​operation of heating devices significantly saves heat loss.
• The device has small dimensions, is almost invisible on the wall and does not interfere with the placement of furniture.
• The device has a relatively low price, is easy to assemble and can be manufactured and installed independently.

The inlet valve is placed next to the radiator

Cons in using the device:

• To install a ventilation valve in the wall, it is necessary to make a hole, that is, in some way violate its integrity.
• Incorrect installation of the device can cause freezing of the wall.
• In the northern regions in winter, the ventilator can contribute to a drop in the temperature in the room to values ​​that are uncomfortable for a person.

Supply valves are built into modern window blocks

Types of ventilators

Supply devices differ in the following parameters:

• the presence of air flow regulation (mechanical or automatic);
• the presence of a sound insulator and insulation;
• the presence of additional elements;
• the possibility of complete isolation of the duct;
• size and appearance.

Some devices may differ in the material of manufacture. There are plastic, metal or polystyrene foam models

Air exchanger selection

Before buying a supply valve to the wall, you need to check it for compliance with some important criteria:

• The device should not be too cheap, a high-quality device equipped with the necessary number of functions costs at least a third of the average cost of a metal-plastic window.
• The damper must be installed directly into the window frame or into the wall next to the window. It is important to check the possibility of such an installation.
• It is necessary to determine the type of ventilator control – mechanical or automatic. The machine will greatly simplify the need to control the optimal temperature and humidity in the house.
• You should pay attention to the level of noise protection of the device.
• The ability of the valve to tolerate the temperature regime of the region.

Air circulation in the room with a supply valve

Prices and popular models

Ventilation devices with a minimum set of functions are relatively inexpensive. The simplest model can be purchased for five hundred - eight hundred rubles. But the most effective models are considered in the price category of two to four thousand rubles.

Table 1. Average cost of supply valves to the wall

Inlet valve into the wall: types, secrets of choice and installation nuances

Stale air is full of allergens, bacteria and microorganisms multiply in it. That is why it is important to install a supply valve into the wall, which will provide access to street air.

What is a plenum valve used for?

Everyone understands perfectly well that its microclimate depends entirely on how good ventilation is in your apartment. And in order for the ventilation to work correctly, along with the air exhaust, there must also be its inflow. Then there will be proper circulation of air masses in the room and you will not be afraid of high humidity, the growth of fungi and various molds.

Today, almost all apartments are equipped with plastic windows. They do not require maintenance, it does not blow through them, and they practically hermetically clog a person’s home from exposure to various weather factors. This is great, of course, but there is, as they say, the other side of the coin. Due to such tightness, our ventilation system practically does not work, since there is no air flow.

Many reading this article will immediately ask what to do in this situation? The answer to this question suggests itself: It is necessary to make additional supply ventilation. The modern construction market, today, is saturated with various types of supply valves. They are divided into window and wall. It is the wall valve for supply ventilation that we will consider in our article.

What is this device?

This device is designed to create a forced ventilation system in the premises. The wall inlet valve provides enhanced circulation of air flows, with the ability to control their speed, while not creating a draft. Thanks to a complex labyrinth of air channels and a filter system, this mechanism cleans the supply air from mechanical impurities. In addition, the design of this valve is such that moisture does not penetrate into the room through it, as well as various street noises.

Where are wall valves used?

These valves can be used both in private houses and apartments, and in buildings of industrial enterprises and public facilities. In addition, the wall supply and exhaust valve is increasingly being installed in hospitals, schools and preschools. Also, the supply valve has proven itself perfectly when creating ventilation in the houses of the "Khrushchev" series. According to experts, the use of this device in kindergartens is especially important, because the lack of fresh air circulation leads to the spread of mold, and this greatly affects the children's body.

Valve internals

The wall valve for supply ventilation is quite simple, but despite this, it perfectly performs its function. Depending on the manufacturer, the appearance of these devices differs from each other, but the main details and the principle of operation remain the same. It consists of:

1. Pipes slightly longer than the thickness of the wall.
2. A ventilation grill that is visible from the outside of the wall. The function of this grate is to keep large debris from entering the home.
3. Special noise-insulating composition, which is filled with the main pipe of the valve.
4. Sealing rings with a damper, which are located on the inside of the wall, and block the air flow during strong gusts of wind.
5. Filter for fine purification of supply air.
6. Covers of the device with a supply valve and an adjusting knob, thanks to which the air supply is adjusted.

Depending on the manufacturer, the appearance of the device may differ slightly from that described, but the internal structure of the valve will be identical.

Operating principle

Air entering the device through the ventilation grill passes through the pipe, where it enters the special soundproofing material of the wall damper. After its passage, the air is already cleaned of coarse mechanical impurities. This device has a special channel, known as the "maze". It is in it that the speed of the supply air decreases and its additional rough cleaning takes place. After that, the purified air enters the adjustable damper, where, through technological openings, it enters the dwelling.

How is the installation - the main stages of work

First of all, in order to install the supply ventilation valve in the wall, you need to decide on the installation location. And although it does not spoil the appearance of the room, it is recommended to install it under the windowsill. This is due to the fact that the supply air immediately enters the radiator of the battery, and heats up, spreading around the room. Experts recommend this way to mount this device, although the location does not play any role, and its choice is up to the owner.

• A through hole is made in the wall under the window sill, with a diameter of 40 mm.
• After that, a plastic pipe with an external protective grille is installed in it.
• Insulating material is laid around the pipe.
• The valve is assembled according to the manufacturer's scheme.
• At the end of the assembly, a cover with an adjusting knob is installed.
• Immediately after installation, your wall valve is ready for operation.

To install the inlet valve in the wall to give maximum results, there is another common way. A hole in the wall is drilled behind the heating radiator. With this arrangement, the valve is absolutely invisible, but the air that comes out of it, bending around the radiator, rises and exits above the battery. The most important thing is that the air is distributed throughout the apartment, already at a temperature close to room temperature. Therefore, even in the most severe frosts, your room is provided with an influx of warm, fresh and dust-free air.

The assembly and installation of this type of valve is quite simple and any home master is able to install a wall inlet valve with his own hands. To do this, just read the installation instructions that come with this device, and also have some tools available. How to install this device, we wrote above.

Before drilling, make sure that there are no hidden electrical wiring and use personal protective equipment (gloves, goggles, etc.) when working. If you are unsure that there are no wires at the installation site, then it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

For self-assembly of this device, you need:

1. A perforator equipped with a drill bit or a crown with victorious soldering of the desired diameter.
2. A set of drill bits that can drill concrete and brick.
3. Figured screwdriver.
4. And, accordingly, the supply-wall valve itself.

Not without drawbacks

With all its positive qualities, the supply-wall valve has drawbacks, and they are associated primarily with timely care for it, although manufacturers are silent about this. It is necessary at least once a season to disassemble the valve and clean the filters. In addition, as eyewitnesses testify, some models of this device freeze through. This, first of all, happens if the valve pipe is made of metal, so its choice must be taken with all seriousness. Although, in fairness, it is worth noting that recently manufacturers have stopped using metal in these valves, so freezing and condensation in it is a thing of the past.

And the last drawback is its price. In the building materials market, it fluctuates, depending on the design and manufacturer, from 2.5 to 4 thousand rubles. But experts believe that this is an adequate price for a good, healthy microclimate in your home, as well as comfort in your apartment.

Wall valve for supply ventilation - is this device necessary?

Features of the design and use of wall devices to provide forced ventilation. How to choose and install a wall-mounted ventilation valve yourself