How to make heating in private. Elements of the heating system
Without well-equipped heating, comfortable living in a private house is out of the question. Therefore, if the house is planned to be used for year-round living, the issue of arranging heating should be given special attention. The work in question can be done in several different ways. The differences between them are only in the form of the energy carrier used and some structural elements. The most popular and profitable option for a private house is gas individual heating.
Existing systems can be classified according to the type of energy carrier, due to which space heating is carried out. Most often, electric, steam and water systems are used, less often - air and open fire systems. The last option is classic fireplaces, traditional Russian stoves and other similar units.
However, it is impossible to consider this kind of heating systems as the main and full-fledged source of heating - an open flame is unable to provide uniform heating.
When choosing a suitable heating system, you need to take into account the specifics of a particular case. Each type of heating has its strengths and weaknesses. For example, single-pipe systems have lower efficiency when compared to their two-pipe counterparts.
The process of arranging a private heating system is divided into two large stages. First you need to perform all the necessary calculations, and then install the appropriate equipment.
Calculations need to be given special attention. It is important to determine optimal performance boiler, the required number of radiators and the required amount of materials.
When calculating the boiler, the statement is traditionally taken as true, according to which 1 kW of power is enough to heat an area of 10 m2. However, this is an approximate calculation, which is far from being correct in all situations. It is better to use a simple formula, according to which for determining required power it is necessary to multiply the value of the heat loss coefficient of the building by the volume of the heated space and by the largest temperature difference inside the building and outside it.
To determine the appropriate heat loss coefficient, you need to know what material the house is built from. So, if the main building material is boards, a coefficient in the range of 3..4 is used for calculations. For brick houses (1 layer), this coefficient will be in the range of 2-3, in the case of a "two-layer" brick - 1-2, and for a well-insulated building - 0.6-1.
These indicators should not be taken as absolutely true either. They may vary depending on the quality of the thermal insulation of the building.
For example, if the main building material is a half-beam, but at the same time a high-quality internal and external thermal insulation, the building can be considered perfectly insulated.
The volume is found according to the elementary school formula: the length of the room is multiplied by its height and by the width. It is enough to simply sum up the volumes of all heated rooms.
As a result, it remains only to deal with such a parameter as the temperature difference. To do this, determine the most high rate for your home (for example, it will be 25 degrees), and check with background information the lowest winter temperature for your region (for example, use a value equal to -35 degrees). Subtract the second value from the first value, and you get a figure of 60 degrees.
Further calculation will not present any difficulty. For example, the volume of the heated room is 100 m3, and the value of the coefficient is 1.5. In this case, after multiplying the numbers in accordance with the formula, it turns out that the boiler must have a power of 9000 W, i.e. 9 kW.
This is not a 100% correct calculation. Professionals take into account many other factors, however, with the independent arrangement of heating a private house, you can get by with the above formulas.
According to average values, about 90-100 W of heating boiler power is needed to heat 1 m2 of room area.
In most cases, 1 element of the heating battery delivers about 150 W of thermal power.
Knowing these values, you can easily determine how many elements you need to heat a particular room.
To obtain more accurate results, you can use the formula, according to which, first, the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room is divided by the amount of heat given off by one battery cell, and then the resulting value is multiplied by 100.
It is strongly recommended to perform a competent calculation of the materials used to equip a private heating system. By spending a little time on this, you can save tangible amounts of money by avoiding the purchase of unnecessary material.
Remember that you need to add some margin to all the obtained values, usually 10-15%.
Direct calculation is not difficult. To carry it out, you need to first prepare a diagram of the future heating system. On it, mark the locations of the main nodes, and then, according to the scheme, calculate the number of fittings, pipes and other elements used in the arrangement of the heating system.
The order of installation of an individual heating system
Work on the independent arrangement of individual heating requires a number of various devices. Prepare them in advance so as not to be distracted by the search for missing materials in the future.
Heating connection set
1. Ring wrenches.
2. Powerful electric drill or hammer drill.
3. Electric screwdriver.
4. Hammer.
5. Pipes and fittings.
6. Stopcocks.
7. Clamps and screws for their fastening.
8. Hooks for mounting radiators and anchor bolts for fixing these hooks.
9. Special fasteners. Needed in cases where it is planned to install batteries made of aluminum or steel.
10. Regulators and different kind sensors. Installed if necessary.
11. Heating boiler safety group.
12. A container capable of performing the functions of an expansion tank, if there is a need to install it.
If a gas boiler becomes the basis of the heating system, remember that it is forbidden to install and connect such units on your own.
For this you need to contact gas service and wait until authorized specialists carry out the necessary installation work. You will be engaged in laying pipes and installing radiators.
Individual heating can be laid in accordance with a variety of schemes. When choosing a specific option, you need to focus on the features of the boiler. Modern units are equipped with a fairly wide range of different components, which must be paid attention to when performing work.
Installation gas boiler, as already noted, should be dealt with by professionals from the relevant service.
After the installation of the main heating unit is completed, the batteries are installed. Traditionally, they are placed under window openings.
To attach the batteries to the wall, special hooks are used. Modern fasteners are a plate with two hooks. This option is very convenient to use. Anchor bolts are used to fix the plate.
Batteries are necessarily equipped with Mayevsky cranes, with the help of which excess air will be removed from the system. In the presence of an automatic air vent, the installation of the mentioned taps is not necessary.
The question of replacing stove heating with a more modern one, sooner or later, has to be decided by the owner of a private house. It is clear that the task for a non-professional is very difficult, but doable. There are many specific subtleties in this work, which are known only to professionals in their field - designers and installers of heating systems. Not possible without their help. But if the owner of a private house has a desire to make heating with his own hands, he may well do some of the work on his own. And entrust the responsible stages of work to professionals.
This article will give an idea to the novice home master about what cycle of work to be done.
Heating options
First you have to choose a heating system. And there are plenty to choose from - there are several of them and differ among themselves according to the type of coolant:
- Water heating system;
- Steam heating system;
- Air heating system;
- Electric heating system.
Let's consider each of them separately.
Water heating
It works on the principle of a closed loop of pipes in which hot water is located. Centerpiece in this system is a boiler, where water is heated and distributed through pipes throughout the system (). Installed water heating radiators, through which the coolant passes, heat up and warm the rooms. The cooled water enters the boiler again and the process is repeated again.
All heating boilers fit into a similar scheme, but the most popular are economical gas boilers.
Important! Gas boilers require regular checks and adjustments by gas company specialists.
Steam heating
Steam from heated water acts as a heat carrier. In the boiler, water is heated to a state of boiling and already in the form of steam it diverges along the highways to the radiators. Cooling, the steam turns back into water and goes back through the pipes to the heating boiler.
There are two types of steam systems:
- open;
- Closed.
In the first case, the system has storage tank, for condensate. And in the second, the condensate formed after cooling is returned to the boiler through pipes of increased diameter.
Steam heating is mainly used in industrial premises in large industries where steam is needed for their own needs. For home use, steam heating has not become widespread due to the large areas for accommodating boiler equipment. And the steam boiler itself is quite difficult to operate, and because of the high steam temperature of 115 ° it is also dangerous.
air heating
In a finished residential building, deploying equipment with your own hands to organize air heating is almost impossible. Only at the stage of building a new house is it possible to install the entire system (). And this is despite the fact that the principle of operation of such a system is quite simple.
A heat generator located at the lowest point of a steam heating system, such as a basement, heats the air. And already heated, it diverges through the air ducts through the premises of the house and exits through the grilles under the ceiling of the rooms. Warm air displaces cold air into the return ducts laid up to the heat generator. That is, a closed cycle of work is obtained.
To improve performance, a fan is included in the heating system, which increases the air pressure in the air duct.
An example of air heating operation is shown in Fig:
The heat generator can operate autonomously on diesel fuel or kerosene. Gas can also be used - as natural from main gas pipeline, and balloon.
To equip a private house with this type of heating, it is necessary to carry out design work. Specialists will calculate: what material the air ducts will be made of (metal, plastic or textile), what size and build the correct topology of the heating network of the entire building.
Electric heating
Provided that there is a constant power supply, electric converters, suspended infrared heaters, and an electrical “warm floor” system will help maintain heat in the house.
Such a system does an excellent job of heating the house, but high electricity bills make you think about the economy of this method of heating.
But if you put it as a spare, in addition to the main one (for example, a gas boiler), then this method of heating is quite in demand.
Mounted heating electric convectors have one feature - uneven heating of the room space. The lower zone at floor level is cold, and the upper zone under the ceiling is warm.
The electrical system of the "warm floor" will help to correct the situation:
Elements of the heating system
The entire electrical heating system in a house can be compared to a human circulatory system. The heart is a cauldron, from which heat diverges through the veins (pipes) to the heating elements throughout the house.
This is, after all, a figurative representation. In fact, there are many more elements that provide efficient work the entire electrical heating system - from pipe fittings to expansion tanks.
Electric heating can be organized in different ways:
- Forced circulation of water;
- Natural water circulation.
A pump is included in the forced circulation system. But there is a small minus - the pump requires electricity to operate. If it is turned off, the entire heating system will stop working.
Systems with natural circulation, in terms of independence from electricity, are more convenient. The circulation of water occurs due to the fact that at the outlet of the heating boiler and the inlet, the water temperature is different. But in this case, pipes with different diameters are selected, and it is difficult to adjust it. The advantage is that such a system does not depend on electricity.
Systems are also divided into open and closed.
In open electrical systems, to relieve excessive pressure, a expansion tank. As a rule, this is the highest point of the system. To relieve pressure in closed systems, a membrane tank is installed closed type. It is small, airtight and can be mounted anywhere in the electrical system, thus avoiding the formation of air pockets.
Calculation of the system and selection of boiler power
Of course, managers in the store can also pick up equipment. But there are two ways in which this can be done quite independently with your own hands.
A simple approximate method is used by equipment sellers: the area of \u200b\u200bone room is multiplied by 100 watts. Summing up the values obtained for all rooms, the required power of the heating devices is obtained.
- If only one 1 wall goes outside, the area is multiplied by 100 W;
- For a corner room, the measured area is multiplied by 120 W;
- If there are 2 exterior walls and two windows, the area of the room is multiplied by 130W.
For a more accurate calculation, the formula is used:
W cat. \u003d (S * W sp.): 10
Where,
- S is the area of the room;
- W beats - specific power of the heater used per 10 m² of room area.
W beat is selected depending on the region.
For example, if the area of all heated premises is 100 m², with a specific power for the Moscow region of 1.2 kW, then the power for the boiler is obtained: W \u003d (100x1.2) / 10 \u003d 12 kilowatts.
Heat consumption for ventilation
The inflow of fresh air is very important for a comfortable stay in the house. And therefore, when choosing a heating boiler, it is important to take into account the heat consumption for ventilation. Fresh indoor air is undoubtedly needed, but no less important is the speed with which cold air flows inside the house. And the lower the speed of fresh air flows, the more more comfortable conditions residence.
Building codes specifically stipulate the presence of exhaust ventilation indoors:
- baths;
- toilet;
- Kitchens.
And the inflow of fresh air should be provided by vents in the window and supply valves in the living rooms (Fig.):
In this way, supply air is divided into three zones:
- Air inflow.
- Air flow.
- Air extracts.
When organizing any heating system, it is necessary to take into account the heat consumption not only for heating the house, but also for its ventilation. If the work is carried out according to the project, then it must include a calculation for heat loss due to the entry of cold air masses into the room.
Only after calculating the nominal air exchange in the house, it is possible to draw conclusions about the final heat demand for both heating the house and its ventilation.
Before choosing and buying a boiler for a heating system, You need to decide for yourself several parameters:
- Most importantly, purchase exactly the type of boiler that will effectively heat the whole house;
- Choose a heating boiler that will constantly work on the selected type of fuel;
- And the last thing - the boiler will work only for space heating or also heat water for everyday needs.
For reference! If the boiler works mainly for heating - single-circuit, and if it also gives hot water - double-circuit.
Solid fuel boilers
It makes sense to opt for solid fuel heating boilers either if there is no way to connect to gas in the region or there is fairly inexpensive coal or firewood.
You can install a solid fuel boiler with your own hands on solid fuel and how backup source heat. The cost of such boilers is relatively low, but the heating system will not work without:
- expansion tank;
- Security groups;
- More reliable pipes and radiators.
This is due to the fact that boilers of this type operate at higher temperatures.
Such boilers are very reliable under a number of conditions:
- The fuel for the boiler must match both in quality and moisture content.
- Mandatory daily cleaning of the solid fuel boiler.
gas boilers
The most popular, with the possibility of connecting to gas mains, are gas boilers (). Its main advantage - with all its simplicity, is also ease of use. Majority modern models gas boilers are also equipped with a thermostat. And this is very convenient - you choose the desired temperature for the house, and the device will automatically maintain comfortable heat throughout the house.
At prices, gas heating boilers have a wide range to choose from.
The price is affected by:
- Manufacturer;
- Power;
- Boiler type.
But a big plus in boilers of this type is that they already come with a circulation pump and an expansion tank.
And the material from which pipes and radiators are made gas heating, completely different and much cheaper than, for example, for solid fuel boilers (coal, etc.).
Electric boilers
This is the most expensive way to heat a house ().
But! Electric heating boilers have some advantages:
- Large choice of power - from 2 to 40 kW;
- Stability in work;
- Do not pollute the atmosphere in the house;
- Very easy to use;
- Built-in circulation pump;
- Supplied with expansion tank and temperature sensor;
- Differ in reliability in work;
- Inexpensive repair and maintenance.
By prices electric boilers comparable to gas.
Oil boilers
Most consumers are unaware that traditional liquid fuel heating boilers are now able to work not only on diesel fuel, but also:
- Kerosene;
- Light grades of oil;
- Waste oils (including synthetic origin);
- Fuel oil.
It is enough to change the burners under desired type fuel.
For reference! On sale there are universal liquid fuel boilers without burners. The consumer has the opportunity to choose a burner for diesel fuel or for gas independently.
But when using liquid fuel heating boilers, a number of features must be taken into account:
- Compared to gas boilers, fuel costs will increase significantly.
- Equipment acquisition and installation costs are higher than other types of heating.
- On the site near the house, it is necessary to leave a place for the installation of a large-sized tank for storing fuel supplies.
- In order to prevent the specific smell of diesel fuel and the noise from the operation of burners in the living quarters of the house, it is better to install heating equipment in a separate building.
- Since the burner needs the operation of automation and pumps powered by electricity, to organize uninterrupted operation, provide for the installation of a backup generator.
- For the stable operation of oil-fired boilers, only good quality fuel is required.
For convenience, the table combines the estimated characteristics of heating boilers, for different types fuel:
Heating system diagrams
The water heating system can be organized into two types:
- Single-circuit;
- Dual circuit.
And according to the principle of movement of the system, there are:
- Single pipe;
- Two-pipe;
- Collector;
- Leningradskaya.
Single pipe
A single-pipe heating system is mounted in series - one radiator after another. From the scheme, a significant drawback of this system is immediately noticeable. The coolant, passing from one radiator to another, begins to cool. With a less intensive circulation of water in distant radiators, it not only gives up the entire remainder of the temperature to the metal, but also slowly enters the return line.
Thus, if the number of radiators for heating is too large, then the last radiator may be generally cold.
In addition, such a heating system is not practical to repair. To repair one radiator, you have to stop all heating in a private house.
Output! In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to extend the circuit indefinitely.
Two-pipe
In a two-pipe heating system, maintenance is much easier. Innings hot water one line of the pipeline goes to the radiator, and through another pipe (waste water) it goes back to the boiler. Radiators in this circuit are connected in parallel.
For ease of operation and repair, each pipe is mounted with a shut-off valve. Here, too, the water at the last radiator in the system will be colder, but much hotter than in a single-pipe system.
Collector
The figure shows that the supply and return system for each heating radiator is organized independently of each other. A significant plus in such a system is the ability to coordinate the temperature in any room separately. It is also very convenient to repair any section of the pipeline and each radiator separately.
To date, all experts have recognized the collector heating system as the most progressive.
But there are also disadvantages:
- Requires the installation of a manifold cabinet;
- Sensitive for the estimate, the consumption of pipes during the installation of the heating system.
Leningradskaya
A more advanced, one-pipe system that, in combination with ease of installation and high cost, is still very popular.
Despite the fact that the Leningrad heating system began to be introduced many years ago, it is now successfully used in the construction of multi-storey buildings. Such a system has the main feature - simplicity. For the device of such a system, you can have a minimum of knowledge and get by with a minimum amount of materials than in two-pipe systems. In addition, in such a system it is possible to control each radiator in the system.
System installation
Once the choice of heating system has been made, the most the right step there will be an appeal to the design office. Having a project of work and drawings in hand, you can purchase and store necessary materials, monitoring and control devices, component parts.
Installation begins with the choice of the installation location of the heating boiler. If combustion products are emitted during the operation of the boilers, the best solution would be to build a separate boiler room. It is possible to place a boiler room in the basement, subject to the arrangement of good ventilation and sound insulation.
The boiler itself is installed at such a distance from the walls that it always has free access for maintenance.
The floor and wall covering near the heating boiler must be made of refractory materials. Equipped with a chimney system from the boiler to the street.
The following steps for the installation of the heating system will be carried out according to the project:
- Installation of a circulation pump;
- Distribution collector node;
- Measuring instruments;
- Devices of manual or automatic adjustment.
After completion of the installation of the boiler, they proceed to work on the installation of main pipelines, according to the selected heating scheme, to the places where radiators will be installed. IN residential buildings you will have to make passages for pipelines in walls and partitions. Based on the selected material, the pipes are interconnected by previously prepared elements.
Installation work is completed with the installation of radiators. Usually, the following conditions are observed during installation:
- Distance from the floor - 12 cm;
- The distance from the walls is up to 5 cm.
Shutoff valves, temperature sensors and other adjusting elements are installed on the pipes at the inlet and outlet of the radiators.
Completes installation work - pressure testing of the entire system.
Boiler connection
Connecting the installed boiler to the heating system according to the following scheme:
- The pipe system laid around the house is connected to the outlets on the boiler.
- As a rule, shut-off valves are installed at the joints that cut off from the common system.
- For work electrical appliances wires and ground loop are connected.
- Installation of safety valves, thermostats and other devices (installed before installing shut-off valves).
- For gas heating boilers - connection to the gas pipeline.
- Filling the heating system with water.
- Pressure testing of the system. At the same time, leaks in the system are detected and eliminated.
- Depressurization in the pipes to the working one.
Important! When starting the gas boiler for the first time, the presence of a representative of the gas company is mandatory.
The modern building materials market offers a large selection of pipes from a variety of materials for the installation of a heating system.
Of course, with sufficient welding skills, you can opt for the usual steel pipes Oh. But why doom yourself in advance to a guaranteed repair of the system due to the fact that the pipes will be subject to corrosion?
If there is a desire to use either copper or stainless pipes, then it can only be approved if the owner is not limited in financial resources and is not afraid of certain installation difficulties. Such pipes are the most expensive, but they are not afraid of high pressure and high temperature.
The most inexpensive option is polypropylene pipes. But it must be taken into account that the joints with the fittings are carried out by soldering, and if the connection is not warmed up enough, this place will definitely leak. And when overheated, it is possible to overlap the internal section with molten material.
IN Lately polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes are very popular. Installation is quite simple, provided that the joints are made on pressed fittings. They can be laid under the fill floors when installing the "warm floor" system.
At large selection modern radiators, opting for traditional cast iron ones is at least not rational (). Due to low thermal conductivity, they have lost their former popularity.
Aluminum radiators
In addition to high heat dissipation, aluminum radiators are very light.
Due to the fact that they have a variety of center distances (350-500mm), the installation of the heating system is greatly facilitated. Aluminum radiators have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other heating devices:
- High heat dissipation;
- Lightweight design;
- High working pressure (18 atm.);
- Beautiful design.
Bimetal radiators
Systems of this type combine the advantages of both sectional (made of aluminum alloys) and tubular (made of steel):
- Increased strength (up to 40 atmospheres);
- Long service life (up to 20 years);
- Beautiful design;
- High level of heat transfer.
Steel panel radiators
The main advantage of steel radiators is their quick response to changes in coolant temperature.
They heat up instantly and cool down just as quickly. Such properties significantly affect energy saving.
A large area of stamped steel panels has a positive effect on high heat transfer, and the presence of a finned surface increases the area of the heater. Such qualities increase the comfort and efficiency of heating.
Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators
The decision to replace the entire heating system was finally made. The main elements of the system have been selected, it remains to solve the question - how much power can the radiators themselves produce?
It is this indicator that is actually the most important in determining the properties of the heating system.
Take, for example, a room with an area of 10 m² with a ceiling height of 3 m. The volume of the room, respectively, is 10x3 = 30 m³.
But this indicator does not fully describe the characteristics of the radiator. It is known from the regulations that a heating radiator with an output power of at least 40 watts is required to heat 1m³ of a room.
The result is: 30x40 \u003d 1200 watts.
For insurance, you can add 15-20%. This is exactly the amount of heat needed to heat such a room. As you can see, the calculations are quite simple and you can do them yourself before going to the store.
When we figured out the power of the radiator, it remains to choose a way to connect it to the main, which is carried out in several ways, as in the figure:
Side connection heating batteries used when mounting to risers. If the main pipes are laid under flooring or at floor level - diagonal.
It can be seen from the figure that these two connection methods allow the most productive use of the entire surface of the battery.
Finds its supporters and the lower versatile way to connect. It can be seen from the figure that with such a direction of hot water it is impossible to effectively heat the entire space of the radiator.
Errors during installation
Flaws and errors in installation work ah, not uncommon. Their description is a topic for a separate article, but the most common ones can be distinguished:
- Illiterate selection of a heat source;
- Admitted shortcomings in the boiler circuit;
- Incorrectly selected heating system;
- Careless attitude of installers.
Choosing a boiler with insufficient power is the most common mistake.
The desire to save on the cost of the boiler, but at the same time power not only the heating system, but also organize the supply of hot water, will lead to the fact that the heat generator will not be able to provide the house with enough heat.
All elements and devices in the boiler piping must be installed according to their functional properties. For example, inserting a pump is recommended precisely on the return lines of pipelines and do not forget to take into account the horizontal position of the pump shaft.
With an incorrectly selected heating system, there is a risk of additional alterations. So if you “hang” more than five radiators on a single-pipe system, most often the rest will not heat at all.
Do-it-yourself installation flaws can be cited as examples of poor-quality slopes, unwelded connections, or the installation of improperly selected shut-off valves.
For example, if you confuse the installation locations of the valves on the pipes in front of the inlet (ordinary faucet) and at the outlet of the radiator (water supply control valve). It also happens that the installation of pipes in the floor occurs without mandatory insulation so that the water does not cool down on the way to the radiator. I had to change the heating system in the country - the old cast iron batteries and a Soviet boiler, for which details cannot be found even during the day with fire. But when they found out the cost of services for the replacement and modernization of thermal communications, they were in great shock. In the end, we decided to do everything on our own - albeit not so quickly, but you can save a good penny. Fortunately, we found this article, where all stages of work are described in great detail and with examples, many photos explaining. I especially liked the section “Mistakes during installation” - we learned a lot of useful things from the category of “what not to do”, otherwise we would have spent more time, nerves and money on redoing.
Thanks to the author for the detailed article. It can be safely used as a scientific guide for self-assembly of the heating system in your home. Thanks also for the many suggestions. They will help, especially for beginners. And I’ll add on my own that, in my opinion, the best option from the proposed ones is the installation of a gas boiler. After all, judge for yourself: it is relatively cheap, familiar and practical. However, the author or anyone else may disagree with me. I'm looking forward to other people's opinions on this.
Two years ago we just did heating in the house. In order not to be dependent on the stove, otherwise this cinder and smoke bother you, to be honest. We installed water heating with specialists. Pretty practical and power is not lost, not sprayed. The water is simply heated by the boiler and it diverges through pipes that are placed around the house, such as a battery. And they are already heating the house. Personally for us, this method seemed the simplest and most optimal.
A question arose with the replacement of heating in a private house, they decided to throw out the Soviet batteries and the boiler and replace it with a new one. Prices of course horror, fight in a terrible way. So I started searching the net for how to do everything right, since I came across you and got information on installing and installing the system. Everything is detailed and easy to understand. After reading it, it became more profitable for me to do it myself than to overpay 10 times more expensive for some smart guy who can do it just like me.
If you live in a region where the temperature drops below zero in winter, the issue of heating in private homes becomes extremely important. When creating a space heating system in a private house, one of the following heating schemes is used (the device, cost, advantages and disadvantages of each of them will be discussed below).
The most common types of home heating systems
The most ancient means of heating, known from time immemorial, is the Russian stove, the disadvantage of which is that the floor always remains cold, since warm air rises up. Fireplaces, which also came to us from antiquity, have changed in many ways, but mainly play an auxiliary role in heating the house. The most popular are water heating systems based on the circulation of water heated from a boiler in pipes. There are boilers with heating from different types of fuel. More rare, but no less effective is air heating. Electric heating in houses is a relatively new type of heating, while heating the premises can be carried out without a coolant, and electrical energy is converted into heat.
Water heating
This system is considered the most reliable and simple: the boiler heats water, which then flows through the pipes to the room radiators, from there, giving off heat to the room through the batteries, it returns back to the boiler.
Scheme of water heating of a private house
Water circulation is supported by a circulation pump. A water heating system is a closed chain consisting of a heat generator boiler, a pipeline, and batteries. Water or antifreeze constantly circulates through it. The fuel for heating the boiler can be coal, firewood, natural gas, kerosene, etc.; centralized power supply or alternative energy: solar and wind converters, mini-hydro stations, etc.
In addition to the boiler, pipes and batteries, the water heating system includes devices for adjusting the system: an expansion tank, where excess water or antifreeze that occurs during heating is discharged; thermostats, circulation pump, pressure gauge, shut-off, automatic air vent, safety valves.
Table 1: Selection of boiler power depending on the heated area of the house
For areas from 30 to 1000 sq. meters, you can also use electric boilers with a capacity of 3-105 kW, respectively. Restriction on the use of electric boilers may be the following reasons: not always enough electricity supplied to the house, the high cost of electricity, taking into account the cost of 1 kW of energy per 10 sq.m. with a ceiling height of up to 3 m, possible power outages.
Scheme of a private water heating system two-story house
Pipes made of different materials are used in the water heating system:
1.Steel, galvanized steel, stainless steel;
During installation, they are welded.Steel pipes have a significant drawback: low corrosion resistance. Galvanized and stainless pipes do not have this drawback; it is desirable to use threaded connections in their installation. When assembling a pipeline from metal pipes, skill and qualification are needed. Currently, in the new construction of cottages, such pipes are used less.
2. Copper;
Copper pipes reliable, endure very high temperatures and high pressure. They are connected by high-temperature soldering with silver-containing solder. They can be hidden in the walls of the house with subsequent embedding. Working with such pipes requires high qualification. Copper pipes are the most expensive of all, and are used mainly in exclusive construction.
3. Polymer(metal-plastic, polyethylene, polypropylene reinforced with aluminum).
Polymer pipes are easy to install and do not require special professional qualities of the assembler. Metal-plastic pipes (aluminum is coated on both sides with plastic), durable, resistant to corrosion, do not allow sediment to be deposited on inner surface. Metal-plastic pipes are mounted using press or threaded connections without the use of welding, which reduces the cost of installation work. However, they also have a drawback: large ratio thermal expansion. If only hot water flowed in the pipe for a long time, and then cold water went in, then they can leak. Therefore, the temporary shutdown of the boiler in winter period and defrosting of heating systems leads to irreversible damage. Another reason for a possible leak: if you bend it at an acute angle, then the aluminum layer can simply break.
The choice of material for pipes should be coordinated with the designers, taking into account the possibility of alternative or “emergency” heating of the house, as well as your financial capabilities. Experts point out that almost the only way to get absolutely reliable system, it is to use a copper pipeline that will last more than one generation.
Water heating system
The water heating system can be single-circuit and double-circuit. The single-circuit system is intended only for space heating. A two-circuit system is created for both heating and domestic water heating. Often two single-circuit systems are used, one of which is responsible for heating, the other for heating water, then in the warm season only one system can be used, taking into account that 25% of the boiler power is spent on heating water for domestic needs.
There are three options for piping indoors: one-pipe and two-pipe, collector. Two-pipe heating systems are considered optimal for individual houses.
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Single-pipe distribution of water heating of a private house
The heated water from the boiler passes sequentially from one battery to another. The last battery in this circuit will be colder than the first. This system is more often used in apartment buildings.
Note: It is difficult to manage a system with single-pipe wiring: without special techniques, it is impossible to block the access of the coolant to one of the radiators, since this will block access to all the others.
The temperature in the rooms is easier to regulate if applied two-pipe wiring. With this type of wiring, two pipes are connected to each heater: with hot and cold water. Such pipes can be laid out in a star-shaped manner.
Scheme of two-pipe wiring for heating a private house
A pipe is connected to the battery with hot water and leaves with a cold. The temperature of each battery is the same.
Scheme of a two-component system "loop"
In this case, batteries located closer to the heat producer are warmer.
There is also a radial or collector wiring when two pipes are connected from the collector to each heater - a direct and a return one.
Note: A collector in a water heating system is a device that collects a coolant - water.
Collector heating scheme for heating a private house
Collector systems are universal, they allow you to make heating systems with concealed wiring pipes. Installation can be carried out by people without special skills. Such a wiring diagram makes it possible to regulate the system and the installation of special electric motors that maintain the desired temperature in the rooms. The advantage is the easy temperature control in each room, the relative ease of installation, the possibility of replacement damaged area pipes without destroying the floor structure. On each floor, there are collectors in a special cabinet, from which pipes go to the heating radiators, independently connected to each radiator. All fittings are located in the cabinet. The need to install cabinets and high costs pipes refers to the disadvantages of the collector system.
Note: The cost of pipes will depend on the chosen wiring scheme (two-pipe or single-pipe). The single-pipe scheme has a lower cost.
Calculation of the cost of the heating water system
Scheme for calculating the heating water system
It is believed that for heating a room with an area of 10 square meters. you need 1 kW of heating power.
There are also correction factors:
From 2 windows facing north - 1.3;
From 2 windows facing south and east - 1.2;
1 window facing north or west - 1.1.
Example: Area 10 x 10 sq.m, two floors. 4 rooms with 2 windows each.
Based on the footage, you need a 25 kW single-circuit boiler (let's say it runs on gas) or a 28 kW double-circuit boiler for heating household water. On average, such a boiler can cost about $ 800. You can also choose an electric boiler, which can also cost about $ 800-850 for a house of this size.
Equipment:
- batteries (we will choose steel ones: 8 batteries on the first floor, two for each window, size 500x800, power 1645 W; and 4 batteries on the second floor, one under the window, size 600x1000, power 2353 W);
- polypropylene pipes about 200 m;
- brackets;
- corners;
- cranes and other elements;
- system installation;
- system design;
- approvals will amount to about $ 11,000.
If you need a gas supply for a gas boiler, you need a project with approvals, which will cost about $ 400. Then it is necessary to build a gas pipeline, which can cost about $ 1,500. When choosing an electric boiler, costs are reduced due to the fact that additional wiring is not required (unlike gas boilers), respectively, a chimney and a boiler room are not needed.
Note: water heating systems have a disadvantage such as labor-intensive and expensive installation, the need for preventive maintenance. If antifreezes are used in the system, then it must be remembered that all antifreezes can lead to leaks in the system, after five years a change of antifreeze is required, as they age and their freezing point rises.
air heating
Scheme of air heating in a private house
Air heating systems are gravitational and forced ventilation systems. With a gravity heating system, air moves through natural circulation due to temperature differences. At different temperatures arises different density air, due to which there is a natural movement of air in the system.
Warm air exits under the ceiling through the air ducts and, occupying a significant volume, displaces colder air (for example, near windows and doors) down and towards the air intake, thereby creating air circulation in the heated room. The disadvantage of gravitational (natural) circulation) is that due to the flow of cold air from open windows, doors, drafts, air circulation is disturbed and overheating occurs in the upper part of the room and cooling of its working part. The advantage is the independence from electricity.
The forced ventilation system uses an electrically driven fan to pressurize the air and distribute it through ducts and rooms. The heat carrier is air, which is heated by a heat generator, the main elements of which are a burner and a heat exchanger. The air supplied by the fan blows the heated the heat exchanger, where the combustion products exit, is heated to 45-60 degrees, then it is fed through the air duct system to the rooms. The cooled air returns to the heat generator through the return ducts or through the grilles. The speed of air movement in systems with forced circulation is much higher. But there is a problem of noise in air ducts and distribution grilles.
The air heating system allows you to do without boilers, radiators, pipes and other elements that are used in water heating. Heat generators can work on different types fuel from the burner.
The principle of operation and the device of the system:
Heating of premises occurs due to the supply of heated air there. The system works in full automatic mode. The main element of the system is a heat generator. Heat generators can be both stationary and mobile.
The design of the heat generator for the installation of an air heating system
In the combustion chamber of the heat generator, liquid fuel (diesel, kerosene) or gas supplied from the burner burns (gas and diesel burners have standard dimensions and connections, therefore they are interchangeable). With a diesel burner, an additional tank, filters, fuel lines for liquid fuel are needed. Household gas heat generators can operate both on natural main gas and bottled liquefied propane-butane.
Note: heating of a residential building with an area of 100 sq. meters for a month at a temperature of + 24 degrees C, approximately 6 fifty-kilogram liquefied propane cylinders will be required. An alternative to cylinders: propane tanks (dimensions 2500-5000 liters) - gas holders buried in the ground, they do not require special heating).
At the bottom of the combustion chamber there is a fan, air from the room enters here, which is sent to the heat exchanger (heat generators can also carry out a small admixture of street air). Further, the heated air is sent through the air ducts into the room, and the combustion products go into the chimney. Heated (usually up to 45-60 degrees) and injected directly or through air ducts, the air, moving, creates uniform heating throughout the entire volume of the room. Through the return air ducts or through the grates on the floor, the air is returned back to the heat generator. Exhaust gases are removed through the chimney. To heat a house, an air flow rate of 1000 to 3800 m3/h at a pressure of 150 Pa is sufficient.
At large area rooms, long air ducts can lead to heat loss, so sometimes it is possible to install several heat generators without air ducts instead of one heat generator with air ducts connected to it. The maximum length of the main air duct should be no more than 30 m, branches - no more than 15 m.
Air ducts are different:
1. By form: round And rectangular;
Round ducts usually have a circular section with an internal diameter of 100-200 mm, they are strong, create a small aerodynamic resistance. Attached with a clampdesired diameter and studs.
Rectangular ducts in the form of boxes with dimensions from 100x150 mm to 3200x4000 mm. have advantages when a large cross-sectional area is needed, or installation is carried out in difficult conditions, they fit better into the interior of rooms, save space, so they are more often used in private homes. Fastened with a special profile and studs.
Both round and rectangular air ducts are fixed to the ceiling with driven anchors.
2. By hardness: tough And flexible;
Rigid are made of galvanized or of stainless steel(section is both round and rectangular). They are used in rooms of any layout and complexity. Flexible and semi-flexible ducts of only circular cross section are made of thermoplastic material using a spiral steel frame. They are easy to install, however, the aerodynamic drag increases
3. By material: metal And non-metallic;
Metal:
- Chimneys are made from black steel (1.0-2.0 mm) with a primer;
- Air ducts are made of copper in wet rooms: kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, swimming pools. This is the most expensive material;
- Made of aluminum alloys: able to withstand high temperatures, do not give in to corrosion. More often installed in kitchens;
- Made of galvanized or stainless steel: 0.5-1.0 mm thick. Such air ducts have a low price, they have anti-corrosion properties, durability and increased fire resistance. (Air ducts made of galvanized steel are most often used).
Non-metallic:
- Plastic air ducts are low cost, are made of polyethylene, vinyl plastic, etc. They are light in weight, easy to install, not subject to corrosion, and have antistatic properties. However, they have low fire resistance. Mounted with metal or plastic mounting brackets.
- Textile air ducts for air transport are made of airtight fabric - polyamide, and permeable polyester fabrics are used for air supply (they are also an air filter). To ensure fire resistance, fiberglass is used. They are economical, easy to transport, easy to mount and assemble. However, textile ducts provide only air flow.
Air ducts passing through unheated premises or adjacent to outer wall need to be insulated. If you plan to hide the air duct between the ceilings, then you need to place it in a metal frame and insulate. In order to disinfect the air and refresh it, filters, humidifiers and fresheners can be built into the system. Air diffusers and air intake devices are attached to the endings of the air ducts going into the premises.
Calculation of the cost of an air heating device
Scheme for calculating the heating air system
Example: two-storied private house with insulated attic and basement with total area 300 sq. meters. Equipment and ductwork will cost approximately $8,000; expendable materials will be $550. (pipes and ducting will cost $ 10-15 per p / m). Mounting and commissioning works-2300$. Design and estimate work - $ 700.
In general, air heating without automation can cost about $11,000. Some firms offer the cost of installing air heating 26-36 USD. for 1 sq. turnkey meter. Comparing these calculations with the calculations of water heating, it can be seen that the cost of conducting air heating, calculated at a minimum, will be lower than when creating water heating. Thanks to automation, the air heater can turn on 3-4 times a day for 10-15 minutes to maintain the temperature. Fuel consumption in heating season can be lower by 30-40% compared to water heating.
The disadvantages of air heating include the fact that it is difficult to carry out its modification, a competent calculation of air ducts and network topology is required, labor-intensive wiring of air ducts, and installation must be carried out during new construction. It is necessary to condition and humidify the air in the room.
Electric heating
Among various options electric heating private houses: electric convectors, ceiling infrared long-wave heaters, cable and film systems for floor and ceiling heating.
Consider the use of electric convectors. They are popular in low-rise suburban construction, especially in regions where there are no gas mains.
The principle of operation of electric convectors
The operation of an electric convector is based on the phenomenon of air convection (circulation), as a result of which more than 80% of heat is released into the air. High moisture protection and reliability of convectors allows them to be installed in bathrooms and children's rooms, since the temperature on their surface does not exceed +60 C. There are models of electric convectors that do not dry the air in the room and do not burn oxygen. The operation of electric convectors is based on heating the cold air entering the device from the room. Heating is produced by a heating element made of a conductive component. After heating, the air increases in volume and rises through the outlet grille louvers. Additionally, the air is heated by heat radiation from the surface of the electric convector.
Scheme of operation of the electric converter
Comfort level provided electronic system maintaining the desired temperature. There are models with a built-in thermostat, and with a remote thermostat. The thermostat saves energy. The air temperature sensor detects the temperature in the room with a short period of time and sends a signal to the thermostat, which turns the heating element on or off. The presence of a thermostat allows you to set the operating mode once, and turn off the device from the network only for a long absence. The built-in thermostat is affected by the temperature of the convector body, so its data can be inaccurate. The remote thermostat controller takes into account the temperature of the point in the space where it is installed. The remote thermostat is attached to the wall at a height of 1-1.5 m from the floor, away from drafts.
Electric convectors can be divided by size into two main groups: high - up to 45 cm high and plinth - up to 20 cm high. High electric convectors are either placed on the floor or fixed with a special frame to the wall. Skirting convectors are convenient for installation under low windows, stained-glass windows. Their power is 0.5-3.0 kW (in increments of 250 W). Dimensions in length, depending on the power, can be up to 2.5 m with a thickness of about 80 mm. For the greatest effect, the electric convector is recommended to be installed at a height of up to 1 m, or under window openings. To ensure proper circulation air flow do not obscure the electric convector with objects at a distance of up to 0.1 m.
In terms of operating costs, this type of heating loses only to gas, but it is more reliable and safe. The control units are provided with protection against overheating. No need for grounding. Devices are insensitive to voltage drops. The voltage in the network, sufficient for the operation of the device -220 V.
Calculation of the number of electric convectors
Scheme of the number of electric converters in a private house
The number and power of convectors are determined based on the volume of the room to be heated.
The required power for heating 1 can be taken as the basis for calculations.m3 of the room: 20 W/m3 - for rooms with good thermal insulation (according to the energy-saving standards of the Scandinavian countries); 30 W/m3 - houses with wall and ceiling insulation, double-glazed windows; 40 W/m3. - poorly insulated houses; 50 W/m3 - poorly insulated buildings.
Example: The requirement for the main heating of a house with an area of 100 m2 and a height of 3 m (volume 300 m3) of a weakly insulated house, i.e. with a demand of 40 W/m3, is 12,000 W. Thus, four convectors with a power of 2.5 kW and one with a power of 2.0 kW can be placed on this area. Depending on the company and the availability of additional functions, the price of a convector can be from $100 to $200-250. Thus, the cost of electric convectors for this case (seven pieces) can be $1250.
To the advantages of electric convectors, one can add the fact that with the general low cost of equipment, there are no maintenance and preventive maintenance costs.
Note: The disadvantage of electric convectors is that they heat the room unevenly in height: warm air accumulates under the ceiling, and the air temperature remains low near the floor, which is also characteristic of water heating, dependence on electricity when it is turned off can also become problematic; in addition, the circulating currents carry dust with them. However, now some companies offer models of electric convectors that help reduce dust collection around appliances. If the room is large, a fan should be installed to speed up heating.
How to choose the type of heating for a private house
Based on the experience of various construction projects, it can be said with confidence that the most correct choice of a heating system for a particular house depends on what type of energy is most accessible, the remoteness of the dwelling from settlements, and the owner’s financial capabilities. There are pros and cons to any of the heating systems, so before making a decision, consult with the designers.
Of course, if there is a gas supply to the house or even to the area, then it is best to choose water heating with a gas heat generator (boiler). Gas is currently the cheapest form of energy. However, in winter there are drops in gas pressure up to 100-120 mm of water. Art., at a rate for boilers of 180 mm of water. Art., which can lead to shutdown of the heating system.
For heating, you can use electric convectors. If it is possible to supply electricity of sufficient power (if you have installed equipment with a capacity of more than 10 kW, you need to connect a three-phase wire and coordinate with the energy sales authorities), then you can use other types of electric heating. However, then you will be completely dependent on the supply of electricity.
Owners of houses remote from civilization will have to think about creating an independent heating system.
For example: devices in the house of stoves, solid fuel fireplaces. The main danger with the wrong arrangement of stoves: the possibility of carbon dioxide entering the room, so good stoves are needed. As an alternative to stoves, you can put a solid fuel boiler: wood and coal for water heating. With the device of sensors, such boilers will be able to maintain the desired temperature without the participation of electricity. Or use liquid fuel boilers, however, taking into account that emissions from burning diesel fuel are harmful to health, and also that 1 kW of energy will cost 4-5 times more than when using solid fuel.
In order to make sure that your home will always be warm, it may be worth making sure that you can use different energy sources. For example, having a solid fuel fireplace or purchasing a multi-fuel boiler, which is produced by European manufacturers, however, its price will exceed the total price of single multi-fuel boilers.
The most important characteristic of current costs is the cost of fuel and its consumption per unit of time.
Currently, fuel prices are approximately:
1 liter of diesel fuel - $ 0.4. The cost of 1kWh of energy is $0.04.
1 m3 of natural gas for a private trader - $ 0.04. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.005.
1 liter of propane-butane mixture - $ 0.2. The cost of 1 kWh of energy is $0.018.
1 kWh electrical energy for a private trader - $ 0.03.
1 kg of coal on average $0.2. The cost of obtaining 1 kWh of energy (0.04 $).
Attention! In this article, all prices are presented for the period of 2009.
The problem of organizing the heating system of one's own house is one of the key ones during construction, reconstruction, overhaul, etc. Even when buying a ready-made country building, you should pay close attention to this issue. And for this, it is imperative to have an idea about existing types heating systems, about their advantages and disadvantages, about operational features.
Of all types of heating, water remains the leader in popularity - with pipes that transfer the heated liquid coolant from the boiler to radiators, convectors or underfloor heating circuits. Despite the cumbersomeness of such a system, the scale of work during creation, there is no real alternative yet, if evaluated according to the joint criteria "price affordability - efficiency - economy". Well, among all water systems, the simplest in execution is single-pipe. How a single-pipe heating system of a private house is planned and installed with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.
What distinguishes a single-pipe heating system
The main feature of a single-pipe heating system is probably already immediately clear from the name itself.
The circulation of the coolant here is organized along one main pipe, which forms a ring that begins and ends in the heating boiler. All heating radiators are connected in series or in parallel to this pipe.
To distinguish externally a single-pipe and two-pipe system is not difficult at all, even just by looking at the heating radiator.
Despite the difference in connecting radiators - all this is a one-pipe system
Despite the variety of battery connection options shown in the figure, all this applies to single-pipe wiring. Options "a" and "b" shows the sequential placement of radiators - the pipe, as it were, passes through them. In options "c" and "d" the batteries are placed parallel to the pipe. But in any case, both the entrance and exit from any radiator "rely" on one common highway.
For clarity, to make it easier to understand, we present a two-pipe wiring diagram:
Always, with any battery insertion scheme, the input to it comes from the supply line, and the output closes to the "return" pipe.
Read more about what it is in a special article on our portal.
Even for those who are inexperienced in creating a heating system, most likely, the main drawback of a single-pipe scheme immediately becomes clear. The coolant heated in the boiler, passing sequentially through the located radiators, cools down, and in each subsequent battery its temperature is lower. This difference will be especially noticeable if we compare the first heat exchange point, located closest to the boiler room, with the very last one in the "chain".
There are certain methods that allow, to a certain extent, to neutralize this drawback - they will be discussed below.
Advantages of a one-pipe system
Be that as it may, the single-pipe scheme of the heating system is quite popular, which is due to its advantages:
- Such wiring requires a minimum amount of material - (we can safely talk about 30 - 40% savings on pipes).
- Based on the first point, the scale of the installation work being carried out is significantly less.
- The wiring diagram is simple, and therefore with the task self-assembly will be able to handle the majority of owners with certain skills in plumbing work.
- The one-pipe system is extremely reliable - once properly installed and debugged, it will not require intervention in its work long years. It does not require any complex adjustment units or equipment.
- Such a system is quite versatile, and if desired, it can be mounted both in a one-story house and at several levels, of course, slightly changing the required equipment and adapting the connection scheme.
One pipe runs along the floor surface - it is not too conspicuous and easy to decorate
- The main pipe always runs along the floor (with the exception of options with risers that will be discussed below). Such an arrangement makes it possible to decorate the pipe without any special costs, for example, by closing it, after appropriate thermal insulation, with a finishing floor covering. And, in the end, one low-lying pipe is not so conspicuous, and it is always easier to hide it than two.
Disadvantages of a single-pipe heating scheme
Single-pipe heating systems were actively used in industrial scale, in the construction of residential and public buildings. Builders, for sure, were fully satisfied with the ease of installation and economy in terms of material consumption, so the shortcomings of the system faded into the background. But with private construction, the “cons” of a one-pipe system will have to be known and taken into account, since they are quite significant.
- The main thing has already been mentioned - in the most simplified form of wiring it is impossible to achieve equal temperatures of the coolant in all batteries of the circuit. One of the ways out is to gradually increase the number of sections from room to room as you move away from the boiler in order to achieve equal heat transfer by increasing the active heat exchange area. But at the same time, of course, it will be difficult to talk about saving on materials - radiators can cost much more than pipes.
There are other ways to equalize the temperature - they will be discussed below.
- If a heating system with natural circulation is planned, then difficulties may be encountered in terms of complying with the mandatory required pipe slope. With a single-pipe system, the line is located along the floor, and if the room is spacious enough, or the perimeter of the building is long, then sometimes it is simply impossible to cope with such a task.
Conclusion - a single-pipe system with natural circulation is only suitable for buildings that are compact in plan. Otherwise, the installation of a circulation pump will become mandatory. However, they are now trying to install a pump at every opportunity, and many modern boilers heating already have a built-in circulation unit.
- A single-pipe system completely eliminates the tie-in into it, in addition to heating radiators, the contours of "warm floors". If in the future the owners intend to organize water floor heating in any of the premises, then it is better to immediately install a two-pipe system.
More about - in a special article of our portal:
Wiring diagrams for a single-pipe heating system
The general contour of a single-pipe system is most often located along the outer walls of the premises of the house and runs parallel to the floor (or with necessary slope). But the scheme for including heating radiators in this circuit may vary. Consider the possible options - from the simplest to the more complex and effective.
Since the schematic diagram of pipe routing and general equipment does not change, the general numbering of nodes will be preserved from drawing to drawing, indicating only newly appeared elements.
You might be interested in information on how the heating system works
The simplest schemes
BUT. The simplest single-pipe wiring systems:
The numbers in the diagram show:
1- heating boiler. Goes up from the boiler main pipe feed (pos. 2). The diagram shows a variant of an open-type single-pipe heating system, therefore, an expansion tank (pos. 3) is mounted at the highest point of the wiring.
If the system operates on the principle of natural circulation, then a starting section is required for single-pipe wiring - the so-called "accelerating collector"(pos. 4). It will prevent stagnation of the coolant in the system and will give an additional impetus to the circulation of fluid through the pipes. The height of this accelerating collector above the first radiator (h 1) is at least one and a half meters.
The heating radiators themselves (pos. 5) in the simplest circuit installed in series with bottom connection of inlet and outlet on opposite sides. It is clear that when laying the pipe to ensure natural circulation, a slope is observed (it is shown by brown arrows). Moreover, the excess of the last radiator in the chain over the heating boiler (h 2) must be observed. The larger this value, the better, therefore, boiler rooms are often placed in basements or they make an artificial deepening of the floor at the installation site of the device. Maximum permissible value h 2 - 3 meters.
To avoid all these difficulties, the best solution would be to install pump unit(pos. 6). It includes the pump itself (pos. 7), a bypass (jumper) and a system of valves (pos. 8) that allow, if necessary, switching from forced circulation to natural (for example, if there are no power outages in the construction area are rare).
It is necessary to foresee one more point - the possibility of releasing air plugs that can accumulate at the top of the radiators. To do this, batteries are placed air vents(pos. 9).
On the left is Mayevsky's crane. Right - automatic air vent
They can be Mayevsky taps, which are periodically unscrewed to release air. More expensive option - automatic air vents that do not require human intervention.
Such a scheme for connecting radiators is the most primitive, since all the shortcomings of a single-pipe system affect it to the maximum extent. The last radiators in the circuit will always be much colder than the first ones.
B. The following diagram provides only one improvement - the radiators are connected diagonally (shown by purple arrows).
Such passage of the coolant through the battery contributes to the maximum return of thermal energy and more uniform heating of all sections. But the temperature difference in the first and last radiator will obviously be even higher. In addition, such a scheme for inserting batteries significantly reduces the possibility of natural circulation of the coolant, and with a long common circuit it will become impossible at all. This means that it will not be possible to do without a circulation unit.
IN. For such wiring, an open or closed type system with forced circulation is more suitable. The diagram below shows a variant with a sealed expansion tank.
The pump in this case is embedded directly into the main pipe (although the previously indicated piping scheme may also be preserved). The main difference is the expansion tank of the membrane type (pos. 10), which is usually installed on the "return" near the boiler (there is no regulation here - the optimal place is chosen in terms of layout and ease of use). And the second mandatory element is the “safety group” (pos. 11), consisting of a safety valve, designed for a certain value of the maximum pressure in the system, automatic air vent and a visual control device - a manometer.
Collected in one building "security group"
In the future, when considering the schemes, only closed system with forced circulation. This is done only in order not to overload the drawings with lines. But in general, the choice remains the same for the owner of the house - a closed or open expansion tank, and the circulation is natural, forced or combined.
All three of the above schemes have one common important drawback. It lies in the fact that in the event of failure and emergency dismantling of any of the radiators, the system becomes temporarily completely inoperative, as the circuit breaks.
Therefore, if a decision has already been made to mount a single-pipe heating system, then Leningradka will be the best choice, which allows you to get away from many characteristic shortcomings and provides more opportunities in terms of adjustments.
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A modernized version of a single-pipe heating system - Leningradka
Where this well-established name, "Leningradka" came from, is not known for certain. Perhaps it is in northern capital Research Institute specialists developed technical regulations for such a heating system. It is possible that at the beginning of large-scale residential construction in the country, some Leningrad construction organizations were the first to put such a scheme on stream. Be that as it may, it was the “Leningradka” that was designed for mass construction, both low-rise and high-rise, and its design, while being economical in terms of material consumption and with ease of installation, makes it possible to effectively use thermal energy in large heating circuits.
The main difference between Leningradka is that the input and output on each of the radiators are connected by a jumper - a bypass. Or another option from main pipe taps are made to the input and output of each of the batteries.
Schematic diagram of "Leningradka" is shown in the figure:
The basic scheme of a single-pipe system - "Leningrad"
The presence of a bypass (pos. 12) allows you to more evenly distribute heat over radiators, to varying degrees removed from the heating boiler. Even if the coolant current is interrupted through any battery (for example, there is a blockage or an air lock has formed), the system will still be operational.
The presented diagram shows the simplest version of the "Leningrad", without equipping with any adjustment devices. It was often used before, and experienced craftsmen already knew what approximately bypass diameter is required on a particular battery in order to maximally equalize the temperature at all points. Thus, a very slight increase in the number of pipes can reduce total number battery sections in rooms remote from the boiler room.
You may be interested in information about how it is arranged and how it works
The same option, but with a diagonal tie-in of the batteries, which improves their overall heat transfer:
But that's not all. Firstly, it is very difficult to independently calculate the diameter of the jumper for each battery. And secondly, such a scheme does not yet provide for the possibility of dismantling any individual radiator without violating the closure of the general circuit. Therefore, it is best to use the modernized modification of the "Leningrad":
Modernized scheme - with taps and control valves
In this version, each radiator is surrounded by taps on both sides (pos. 13). At any time, you can "cut off" the battery from the common pipe - for example, when the room for some reason temporarily does not need heating, or if it becomes necessary to dismantle it for repair or replacement. The operation of the system will not be affected in any way.
These taps, by and large, can also be used to adjust the heating of a particular radiator, increasing or decreasing the coolant current.
But it would be wiser to install ball valves here, which are designed primarily to work in two positions - “open” or “closed”. And for adjustment, a balancing needle valve mounted on the bypass (pos. 14) will serve.
The same scheme with diagonal connection:
And here is a similar connection - in the photo:
The radiator is connected to the "Leningrad"
- Blue arrows - shut-off ball valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator.
- Green arrow - balancing valve.
Such a modernized Leningradka system makes it possible, if necessary, to mount the system not with a single looped circuit, but with dedicated sections - branches. For example, this is how you can organize wiring in a two-story building, or in a house that has "wings" or side extensions.
"Leningradka" with an additional branch circuit
In this case, a branch is made from the main pipe (pos. 16), going to an additional heating circuit, and a tie-in into the return pipe (pos. 17). And on the "return" of the additional circuit (pos. 15), it is advisable to install another needle regulating valve (pos. 18), with which you can achieve balance joint work both branches.
For a two-story house, another option is possible. If the layout of the premises in general terms coincides, then it will be rational to use a system of vertical risers.
19 - interfloor overlap.
20 - supply pipe from the boiler.
21 - "return" pipe.
22 - risers, which include radiators according to the "Leningrad" scheme with an adjustable bypass.
Here, however, there is one interesting point. Each drain itself is organized as a one-pipe system (highlighted in green). But if we consider the system as a whole, then the risers are already included in a two-pipe system - each of them is connected in parallel to the supply pipe and to the return pipe (highlighted in brown). Thus, there is a harmonious combination of the advantages of both systems.
Video: Leningradka heating system
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Heating system planning
When conducting advance planning Any heating system must take into account many nuances that directly affect its efficiency. It is very important to correctly determine the choice of the main elements - a boiler, radiators, pipes for creating circuits, an expansion tank, a circulation pump. Ideally, such a calculation should be entrusted to specialists. But knowing the basics and being able to navigate in such matters will never be superfluous.
What kind of boiler is required?
The main requirement for the boiler: its heat output must fully ensure the efficiency of the heating system - maintain the required temperature in all heated rooms and fully compensate for the inevitable heat losses.
This publication will not dwell on the types of heating boilers. Each homeowner makes an individual decision - based on the availability and cost of energy, the presence or absence of the possibility of equipping a boiler room, storing fuel, taking into account their financial capabilities to purchase this or that equipment.
But the power of the boiler is that general parameter, without taking into account which to create a rational and effective system heating is not possible.
You can find a lot of recommendations on the simplest self-calculation of the required power. As a rule, it is recommended to proceed from the ratio of 100 W per 1 m² of house area. However, this approach gives only an approximate value. Agree that neither the difference in the climatic conditions of the region, nor the features of the premises are taken into account here. Therefore, we propose to use a more accurate method.
To get started, make a small table in which you indicate all the rooms in your house and their parameters. Surely, each owner has a building plan, and, knowing the features of his "possessions", he will spend quite a bit of time filling out such a table. An example is given below:
| room | area, sq. m | exterior or balcony door | exterior walls, quantity, where to look | windows, quantity and type | window size | required for heating, kW |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TOTAL: | 18.7 kW | |||||
| hallway | 6 | 1 | 1, C | - | - | 2.01 |
| kitchen | 11 | - | 1, V | 2, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.44 |
| living room | 18 | 1 | 2, Yu.Z | 2, double glazing | 150×100 cm | 3.35 |
| sleeping | 12 | - | 1, V | 1, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.4 |
| children's | 14 | - | 1, Z | 1, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.49 |
| and so on throughout the premises | … |
Now that the data is ready, go to the calculator below and calculate the heat demand for each room in a table - it's very simple. It remains then only to sum all the values.
Calculator for calculating the required heat output
The task of creating home heating with your own hands is difficult, but quite solvable. There can be many reasons why you have to choose such an option for arranging heating, ranging from the high cost of performing work by third-party organizations to the habit of doing everything yourself. But regardless of the motives that made us stop at this option, in order to successfully create heating, you need to know how it works.
About heating the house in general
Water heating any private house consists of at least the following elements:
- heating boiler;
- expansion tank;
- heating radiators;
- pipelines;
- control valves.
And here the first feature appears - the circulation pump is not mentioned among the equipment. The fact is that for some options for creating home heating, whether it will be done with your own hands or not, a pump is not required. But in this case, there are other requirements that will be touched upon a little later.
Components of water heating
Therefore, when deciding on a future water heating system, it is necessary to start work from the main points - to decide what the heating scheme will be and to choose the power of the heating boiler.
What boiler should be used?
This is a rather complex task, in the solution of which it is necessary to take into account many different points.
1. Choice of type of fuel. It is necessary to focus on affordable and cheap energy sources, the main gas is considered the best. In its absence, use other types of fuel:
- solid (coal, firewood, peat, pellets, etc.);
- liquid (solar oil);
- electrical or any other energy. Fuel should be chosen the cheapest and most affordable, given that these costs will determine your future home heating costs.
2. How the boiler will be used - only as an element of the heating system or also as a source of hot water. Depending on the purpose, you can choose a double-circuit or single-circuit boiler.
3. What area needs to be heated, creating home heating on their own, and the characteristics of heated rooms. In such a calculation, it is necessary to take into account almost everything:
- geographical location of the house;
- number of floors;
- the material from which the house is made, the thickness of the walls, the use of insulation during its construction, etc .;
- the frequency of operation of the boiler, the possibility of its operation in automatic mode;
- location, dimensions, possibility and necessity of routine maintenance and service;
- the presence or possibility of creating the necessary ventilation to remove combustion products.
The above questions represent only a small part of those that you must answer before you create a home heating system with your own hands.
About choosing a heating scheme
Heating can be performed according to a variety of schemes. In this case, for each specific case, its own, most suitable option can be applied. When choosing it, it is necessary to take into account the features inherent in various heating systems.
1. They come with natural (gravity) and forced circulation. A feature of gravity circulation is the ability to heat the house without the use of additional equipment, such as a circulation pump, and the ability to operate system elements at atmospheric pressure.
This approach makes it possible to reduce costs when creating heating, however, for this it is necessary to fulfill a number of additional requirements:
- the heating boiler must be located below the radiators, and the expansion tank above;
- pipelines must have a slope that creates a gravity flow of the coolant towards the radiators during the movement of hot water, and towards the boiler during the return;
- pipelines must be secured to prevent backflow;
- pipes for supplying hot water should be of a larger cross section than for the return.
The forced circulation heating system is the most versatile, and it does not require so many requirements to be created.
2. Installation of heating can be done in one-pipe and two-pipe way. The features of these heating schemes are shown in the photo
With a single-pipe system, water passes through the radiators one after the other and then returns to the heating boiler, and with a two-pipe system, water enters each radiator separately from the main and then returns there.
It is traditionally believed that a two-pipe heating scheme is the most efficient, but a single-pipe one also has its advantages, among which it must be recognized that this is the easiest and most affordable option for creating home heating, and also the cheapest.
As for the shortcomings inherent in the single-pipe scheme, its most popular type, called "Leningrad", thanks to the efforts of numerous heating specialists, has been largely spared from them.
If you look at the home-made heating being created in the house from this point of view - the simplicity and reasonable price of the entire system, then Leningradka can probably be considered one of the most suitable options.
You can learn more about the intricacies and features of this system using the video.
How to connect a heating radiator
An important factor ensuring the normal operation of the heating system are the radiators used. There are many varieties of such products, they are made of different shapes and from different materials, achieving maximum heat transfer from them, but other factors play the main role in heating the room:
1. Number of radiator sections. The established practice recommends using one section for heating three sq.m. area, while the temperature of the coolant should be seventy degrees.
However, the number of sections cannot be unlimited, do not forget that each element in the system creates resistance to the passage of water, and if it is too large, then the heating simply will not work.
2. How the radiator is connected to the heating system. The figure below will allow you to evaluate how much the difference in various ways battery connection heating efficiency:
3. Where and how the radiator is installed.
These data should force us to take a closer look at the task of determining the location of the radiator. And if the battery is usually placed under the window opening (in the center), and this is quite correct solution, then the installation of any decorative screens or other decor items (curtains, curtains) worsens heat transfer and heating efficiency.
Although the creation of heating a private house must be considered a rather difficult task, nevertheless, it can be solved on its own.
The existing variety of options for the implementation of the heating system allows anyone to choose the best way suitable for their own strength, skill and means.