Installation of heating radiators in the apartment. Rules for installing a radiator under a window

Content:

In order to install heating batteries in an apartment yourself, you need to choose the right type of them, decide on the type of wiring and connection diagram, and then follow the rules.

Do-it-yourself heating radiator installation - Photo

Defects in the heating system of an apartment can occur for many reasons, which can not be eliminated without replacing the batteries. Then one of the most acceptable solutions would be to install heating radiators with your own hands. This is not an easy matter and requires strict adherence to technologies and rules, as well as accuracy and at least minimal skills in handling simple tools, such as a level, different types of keys, a drill, a screwdriver, etc. Equally important is the use of quality materials and knowledge of how to install the battery.

The main stages of self-installation of heating batteries

Stage 1. Preparatory. It includes quite a few actions, each of which is very important.

You should start with the theory, only then the replacement of heating radiators in the apartment will be successful, and the immediate elimination of the mistakes made will not be required.

Ways of wiring radiators and their connection diagrams

Methods for distributing heating pipes - Photo

You should start by studying battery wiring methods, and choose the most appropriate of the existing options:

Single pipe or series . It is the simplest in terms of its device, which is a definite plus for people who decide to do such work for the first time and do not really understand how to install a battery.

The coolant is sequentially supplied to all heating devices and returned through the same pipe. It has the following significant disadvantages:

• the final battery with such a scheme most often does not warm up enough;
• there is no possibility of control over the temperature regime of each radiator;
• to repair or replace the battery, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

ADVICE. Install a bypass, which will allow you to turn off only those radiators that are equipped with this device.

Two-pipe . This option is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but it’s real to deal with it with your own hands, you just need to make every effort and effort.

Here, a parallel connection is used, when the coolant is supplied to each radiator and returned already cooled down through another, called the return.

Among the advantages of this option: the ability to regulate the degree of heating of the battery using thermostats, the room warms up more evenly, and repairs are much easier to perform, since you can turn off any of the devices separately without involving the entire system in the process.

See also:

Aluminum radiators take the lead among all heating devices. They are characterized by high ergonomic and thermal performance. The best manufacturers on the market are ROMMER Rifar, Global, Sira Industrie…

Collector . For apartments, it is not used and, moreover, is the most difficult to implement. Therefore, we will not dwell on it in detail.

battery connection diagrams in the apartment - Photo

Of no less importance connection diagram. They are selected taking into account the structural features of the apartment, the existing heating system and some other factors. Consider the features of each option:

• The most common connection type is unilateral lateral . It has good heat dissipation, but if multi-section radiators are used in the apartment, then insufficient heating of those sections that are located on the edge is possible. Correcting this shortcoming is not at all difficult - you need to install an extension cord for the water flow.
• lower. This method is advisable if the heating pipes pass under the baseboard or are built into the floor. Branch pipes for hot water supply and return are located at the very bottom of the battery and directed vertically downwards, which does not violate the aesthetic perception of the room. However, heat losses can reach very significant values ​​- up to 15%.
• Diagonal . This option is preferred if the radiators have 12 or more sections. Here, the pipe with the hot carrier is connected to the upper branch pipe on one side of the battery, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one, located on its reverse side. Heat losses do not exceed 5%. However, this figure will double if the connection points of the return and the main pipe are reversed.

Given the characteristics of your home, as well as your preferences, you can choose the most suitable type of connection. In case of serious doubts, you can seek the advice of professionals.

The choice of heating devices (radiators)

When installing heating radiators with your own hands, it is important to choose correctly which of the many available on the market today are suitable for specific conditions. Consider the most interesting and popular types:

Cast iron. The advantages of such familiar heating devices include: durability, good heat dissipation, unpretentiousness. However, in order to ensure good heating of the room, such batteries must have a fairly large number of sections, which are not so easy to assemble.

There are also features of fixing such batteries in houses built from different materials. For example, if the walls are built of wood, in addition to supporting fasteners, you will need a support stand.

Aluminum . They fit into the interiors of different styles and have good heat dissipation, low weight. Great for installing do-it-yourself heating radiators.

Steel batteries . These corrosion-resistant heating devices are characterized by good heat dissipation and a high level of performance. Other advantages include low price and ease of installation.

Bimetallic . Such batteries look very attractive, have high heat dissipation, low weight, do not require special maintenance.

Aluminum heating radiator - Photo

Choosing the most suitable type of radiators you need calculate the required number of sections. It is better to find out all the necessary values ​​\u200b\u200bfrom the specialists of the store where you plan to purchase these devices.

ADVICE. In accordance with the good old rules, one section is sufficient for high-quality heating of 2 m 2, if the ceiling height does not exceed 2.7 m. This calculation does not reflect the technical characteristics of modern types of radiators, as well as specific conditions that have changed significantly in recent years . Therefore, such a calculation can only be taken as a very approximate guideline.

Stage 2. Execution of documents, acquisition of the necessary parts and materials.

Heating in the apartment is part of a single centralized system, and in order to drain the coolant, it will be necessary to turn off the entire house. Coordination of such actions with state bodies is prerequisite. If you try to install heating batteries with your own hands, without having permission, you may be held administratively liable in the form of a fine.

ADVICE. It is advisable to issue permits in advance, since a decision on your application takes some time.

To properly and quickly install the batteries in the apartment you will need:

• brackets, which are selected according to the type of materials of the walls of the apartment. Their number is calculated based on the rule: at least one bracket for each meter of battery area.
• Shut-off valves. When installing heating radiators with your own hands, having no experience in performing such work, preference should be given to radiator-type products.
• Drives. They are used to connect batteries to the heating system without welding and plumbing. They must match the size of the battery and the threads of the pipes used.
• Adapters, couplings, Mayevsky cranes, tow, sealing tape etc.

Stage 3. Choosing a place and rules for installing batteries.

Do-it-yourself battery installation in the apartment - Photo

After the old batteries have been dismantled, you can proceed to marking the mounts for the new ones. Here it is very important to know how to install the battery so that the indoor climate is pleasant.

There is nothing complicated: radiators are installed in places where there is a significant temperature difference - near doors and windows.

There are a number of rules on how to properly install batteries, which must be strictly observed:

The slope of the eyeliner elements should be at least 0.005, but it is better if this figure is twice as large. It is most expedient to measure it along the length of the pipes, based on the calculation that each meter should be inclined by 0.5 cm towards the circulation of the coolant.
The distances from the battery to other surfaces should be:
o to the floor - 6-10 cm;
o to the windowsill - 5-10 cm;
o to the wall - 3-5 cm.
Strict observance of the horizontal and vertical when installing the heater, and not “by eye”, but with the help of a level.

ADVICE. Install a heat shield behind the radiator or cover the wall with a similar material. This will improve battery performance, improve the microclimate at no extra cost.

• The centers of the window opening and the battery must match. A slight displacement is possible - no more than 2 cm, which is not visually noticeable.
• Radiators in the same room should be placed at the same level, which is technologically advanced and looks aesthetically attractive.

Stage 4. Final. Installation of batteries and connection to the riser.

Before proceeding with the installation of radiators, you need to install brackets for which:

• Mark the points of their placement, which are selected, taking into account the installation rules;
• Holes are drilled in the wall, where dowels are installed and fasteners are screwed in, which are purchased or made independently.

It remains only to install the battery itself, so that it rests tightly on each mount and connect it to the system.

Connecting battery sections requires special tools and some skill, so it's wiser to have the job done in a store. It is quite possible to assemble the mounting kit yourself.

To connect the battery to the heating system, a threaded drive is used, and then the joints are sealed with tow, and welding is also used.

Installation of aluminum or bimetal heating radiators video

Other options are also possible if metal-plastic or propylene pipes are installed when creating a heating system.

Now you have an idea how to install a heating battery, and if you wish, you can easily do this work yourself.

A variety of heating systems provide a comfortable air temperature inside residential premises. The vast majority of heating concepts are based on special heat transfer devices, commonly called batteries. You can install them yourself if you know the nuances of the work.

We have collected and systematized for you all the information about the options and methods of connection. Taking into account our recommendations, the installation of heating batteries with your own hands will be carried out without the slightest difficulty. All readers of the article presented by us will cope with it without problems.

A detailed description of connection options and technologies is supplemented with visual diagrams, photo collections, and video instructions.

To understand what battery designs are needed, initial knowledge about the modes and operating conditions of heating devices will help.

Below is a summary of information on the important parameters of heating systems when choosing batteries:

1. Internal pressure. The value required for the competent choice of a device that can withstand pressure in the heating circuit:

• Private house (autonomous) = 1.5-2 atm.
• Private house (centralized) = 2-4 atm.
• 5-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 2-4 atm.
• 9-storey building (centralized and autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
• House over 9 floors (autonomous) = 5-7 atm.
• House over 9 floors (centralized) = 7-10 atm.

If the technical capabilities of the battery are lower, there is a possibility of depressurization of the device with other negative consequences.

2. Permissible heating temperature. Characteristic indicating the upper temperature limit, above which the battery may fail:

• Autonomous = up to 90⁰С.
• Centralized with plastic wiring = up to 90⁰С.
• Centralized with steel wiring = up to 95⁰С.

Operation in violation of the temperature regime leads to melting of the seals, deformation and loss of tightness of the device.

3. The degree of pollution of the coolant. A parameter that is mainly of interest to owners and water supply:

• Autonomous private house = high, medium, low when installing filters.
• Autonomous multi-storey building = high, medium, low when installing a filter system.
• Centralized = low, in rare cases medium.

Water supplied by centralized networks to municipal heating systems undergoes complex treatment. The content of sand and clay suspension in water extracted from private wells, wells, open sources may exceed the allowable limit.

Traditional Battery Locations

For further selection of battery designs, it is required to determine the points . They are placed in places of greatest penetration of cold. This is done to minimize the effect of drafts on the microclimate of the premises. They also focus on ensuring availability for the purpose of periodic maintenance.

Batteries mounted on the bottom create a thermal curtain in rooms with panoramic windows, for example, on verandas

Battery areas:

• Window niches. The most common location for heating appliances.
• Extended interwindow spaces. One of the popular options.
• Corners and "blind" walls of corner rooms. It is used to enhance the heating of rooms with increased heat loss due to the intense effects of winds.
• Bathrooms, pantries, bathrooms, one or two sides of which are combined with a main load-bearing wall.
• Unheated entrances, hallways of private houses.
• Apartment corridors of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Modern designs of heating appliances fit under the balcony door or the entrance to the loggia.

An example of the location of heating radiators in one house:

Image gallery

The most popular and rational location of the heating radiator is under the window, behind a protective decorative screen.

If the space under the window is occupied, you can hang the radiator to the adjoining wall in close proximity to the window

An ordinary heating radiator hardly fits into the bedroom interior. Way out - false cabinet or cabinet

Steel radiators are distinguished by a long service life and resistance to the characteristics of the coolant

Light weight is a really important advantage of aluminum, especially if the heater needs to be installed on a relatively weak support.

You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be improperly selected final heat exchange devices. indoors, as which traditionally most often act as radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?

And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those heat transfer output parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some circuits.

Necessary information for the correct choice of the radiator connection scheme

In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but their consideration is not included in the plans of this publication.

The basic device of a heating radiator

So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:

From the layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding and decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum allowable assembly dimensions. To do this, a threaded connection is provided between the sections using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected “tightly” or even represent a single metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is of fundamental importance.

But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common manifolds located horizontally at the top (pos. 2) and below (pos. 3). And at the same time, in each of the sections, these collectors are connected by a vertical channel (pos. 4) for the movement of the coolant.

Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper manifold, G3 and G4 for the lower one.

In the vast majority of connection schemes used in the heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.

And here's what's important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.

Note : Of course, the scheme is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it may have its own characteristics. So, for example, in cast-iron batteries of the MS-140 type, familiar to everyone, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the hydraulic scheme shown. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.

Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?

It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or

Features of a one-pipe system

This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, it is quite popular in single-story individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that much fewer pipes are required during creation, and the volume of installation work is reduced.

If explained as simply as possible, then this system is a single pipe passing from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.

On the scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:

It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "chain" becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed circuit. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of such a system.

It is also possible the location of a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the house went to the owners from the old owners, that is, with the wiring of the heating circuits already installed.

Two options are possible here, shown below in the diagram, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".

Prices for popular heating radiators

• Option "a" is called a riser with an upper coolant supply. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then sequentially passes down through all the radiators. That is, the hot coolant is supplied directly to the batteries in the direction from top to bottom.
• Option "b" - single-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the direction of the flow changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.

The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant, is even more pronounced.

Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.

The secrets of the popularity of the heating system "Leningradka"

Despite the rather significant shortcomings, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article of our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which single-pipe systems are not able to work normally.

What if the system is two-pipe?

A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to manage, better amenable to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material is required to create it, and installation work is becoming larger.

As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding pipes of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).

This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:

In this case, the supply riser is muffled from above, as is the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.

Here it is important to understand one nuance correctly. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is a two-pipe system. For example, with vertical wiring, there may be such a picture:

Such an arrangement can mislead an inexperienced owner in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.

aluminum radiator prices

aluminum radiator

It's different if the connection looks like this:

The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes - supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.

There are other two-pipe connection schemes. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "beam" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the circuit wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.

In such cases, a collector node is placed in a certain place, and from it already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it's still a two-pipe system.

Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to select the radiator connection scheme, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold, and which is connected to the "return".

But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a single-pipe system, does not play a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and into the "return".

By the way, even in the conditions of a not very large house, a combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe system was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators connected according to the single-pipe principle are located. And this means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and to individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of the flow in the pipe or the relative position of the pipes-collectors of the supply and "return".

If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.

Schemes for connecting radiators to the circuit and evaluating their effectiveness

All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how radiators can be connected to the pipes of the circuit, and which method gives the maximum heat transfer efficiency.

As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?

A few more preliminary words. What are the "motivating reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the channels of the radiator.

• This is, firstly, the dynamic pressure of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air pockets). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
• Secondly, the temperature difference (and, accordingly, the density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself also becomes the “driving force”. Hotter streams tend to rise, trying to displace the cooled ones.

The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can vary quite a lot.

Prices for cast iron radiators

cast iron radiator

Diagonal connection, infeed from above

Such a scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is she who is taken as a “unit”, and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.

It is quite obvious that a priori, the coolant cannot meet any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper manifold, flows evenly through the vertical channels from the upper manifold to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of ​​the radiator is heated evenly, and the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.

One-way connection, feed from above

Highly common scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.

In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are a lot of sections in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.

It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation in the “peripheral zone” of a stagnation area, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the tie-in.

Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of thermal power of about 3÷5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.

One-way connection, infeed from below

The scheme cannot be called effective in any way, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often built in this way. and, probably, this is the only slightly justified case of its use.

For all, it seems, the similarity with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a dead zone in the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easily explained. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, the difference in density will also contribute to its upward trend. And the periphery can either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.

The loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, unless absolutely necessary, it is not recommended to resort to it. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.

Bidirectional bottom connection

Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. However, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.

It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its upward propagation along vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" oncoming flows of the cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensively as we would like.

Losses in the overall heat exchange efficiency with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.

Diagonal connection from below

It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would have to resort to such a connection. However, consider this scheme.

Prices for bimetallic radiators

bimetal radiators

The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply “not finish off” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upwards, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.

Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with this connection are estimated at 20%.

Bilateral top connection

Let's be honest - this is more of an example, since putting such a scheme into practice would be the height of illiteracy.

Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for distribution throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will really warm up - the rest of it turns out to be “outside the game”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into a clearly inefficient one.

The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously acting as dryers. And if you have to bring the pipes in this way, then without fail, various methods are used to turn such a connection into an optimal scheme. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains such only visually.

How can you optimize the radiator connection scheme?

It is quite clear that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay pipes so that they become almost invisible. How to be in such cases?

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the tie-in by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer in this case must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good”.

There are other methods to solve this problem.

• You can purchase batteries that, outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.

In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:

All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises up vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this high point, further distribution, quite obviously, is already underway, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from above.

Or, for example, the case mentioned above when it is required to bring both pipes from above:

In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one way left for the entire volume of the coolant - through the lower inlet of the last section, vertically along it - and then into the return pipe. Eventually " traffic route» fluid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.

Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series go on sale in which the same model can be designed for different tie-in schemes, but in the end an optimal “diagonal” is obtained. This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, then the entire effect is lost.

• There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator according to this principle. To do this, in specialized stores you should find special valves.

They must match their dimensions to the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then a supply or “return” pipe is packed into its internal thread, depending on the scheme.

• The internal baffles shown above are intended, to a large extent, to improve heat transfer when connecting batteries on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tie-in - we are talking about the so-called flow extensions.

Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator through-hole plug and, during assembly, ends up in the collector cavity, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube of the required length is selected separately for it.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

What is achieved by this? Let's look at the diagram:

The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal "diagonal from top to bottom" scheme.

Many masters practice and independent production of such extension cords. If you figure it out, then nothing is impossible in this.

As the extension itself, it is quite possible to use a metal-plastic pipe for hot water with a diameter of 15 mm. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the passage plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.

As can be seen from the foregoing, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an inefficient battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.

And what about a one-way bottom connection?

They may ask in bewilderment - why is the scheme of the lower connection of the radiator on one side not mentioned in the article yet? After all, it is quite popular, as it allows you to carry out a hidden pipe connection to the maximum extent.

But the fact is that possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and the coolant is taken away, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.

What is commonly understood under bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only the supply of pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.

Here is just one example of radiators specially designed for pipe connections. one side bottom:

If you understand the scheme, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of the best options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective "diagonal from top to bottom" pattern is generally achieved.

Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.

The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a lower one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.

So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?

How does the location of the radiator on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?

You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for its connection, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of important nuances of its installation.

There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.

• Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, the streams of heated air become like a thermal curtain, which largely limits the free distribution of cold from the window surface.

Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.

• If the radiator is installed under the window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ of the width of the window. This way, optimal indicators of heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window will be obtained. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance in one direction or another up to 20 mm.
• You should not install the battery too high - the window sill hanging over it can turn into a formidable barrier to ascending convection air flows, which leads to a decrease in the overall heat transfer efficiency. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If it is impossible to set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the thickness of the radiator.
• There is a certain regulation and clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too low height, less than 100 mm, will bring unnecessary difficulties when cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into dust accumulation, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
• The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing the brackets for the canopy of the battery, it is taken into account that there must be a free clearance of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, deposits of dust may accumulate there, and normal convection will be disturbed.

These rules can be considered indicative. If the manufacturer of radiators does not give other recommendations, then they should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.

The next nuance is how open the installed battery is for full heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.

If the battery is under the window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the heat output of the battery, then it is quite possible to encounter the sad fact that it is not possible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.

The table below shows the main possible options for installing radiators on the wall according to their "degrees of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of efficiency of the overall heat transfer.

Illustration	Operational features of the installation option
	The radiator is installed in such a way that it does not overlap with anything from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the battery thickness. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not closed with thick curtains, then there is no interference for direct thermal radiation. In calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit.
	The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but certain efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3÷5%.
	A similar situation, but only not a visor is located on top, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%.
	The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But from the front side, over its entire area, it is covered with a decorative grille or screen. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the defining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%.
	The decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching up to 20÷25%.

So, we have considered the main schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information has been obtained on the applied methods for optimizing circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.

Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose the correct scheme based on from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to complete the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.

There is no need to be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be given the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.

How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?

Everything is quite simple.

• First, the amount of thermal energy that is needed to heat the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses is calculated. And, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
• Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator tie-in scheme and the features of its location on the wall.
• The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time

The inlet pipe, bypass is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. This connection method is used to install batteries in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system.

The main inlet pipe is installed at the top on one side of the radiator, and the outlet pipe is installed at the bottom, on the other side of the radiators. This method is used in our company to install radiators in apartments with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of the installation method of heating systems is that the battery provides maximum heat transfer.

This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is that you can disguise pipes under the baseboard or hide them in a screed under the floor.

In two-pipe systems, there are two separate pipelines (supply and return), the supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one. This method is used to install radiators in apartments with a two-pipe heating system.

The conductive pipe must be connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one on the other side. This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a two-pipe heating system. The advantage of the method is the maximum heat transfer of the coolant.

The supply pipe is laid at the bottom of the return pipe. The coolant moves along the riser from the bottom up. The air from the system exits through Mayevsky's taps. Such a system for connecting radiators is suitable for heating low-rise buildings, private houses.

* Delivery of batteries is free of charge in case of purchase and installation of the battery in our company.

The company "Vodokanalsbyt" is a large company providing high-quality plumbing services in Moscow and the region. Our capabilities allow us to successfully solve even the most complex tasks.

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Departure of the measurer - FREE OF CHARGE!

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• Free engineer visit
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• We ourselves will agree on the disconnection of the risers from the Criminal Code
• Masters with many years of experience

We are professionally engaged in the replacement of heating batteries in apartments and houses at low prices. We provide a full range of services and guarantee conscientiousness and responsible approach. Installation is carried out by experienced craftsmen with high-precision tools and appropriate skills.

Over the years of work, we have developed an optimal algorithm for cooperation with the customer. We are ready to go to any object, whether it is an apartment, office or private house. Information about market conditions, accumulated technical knowledge and strong business ties with manufacturers have made Vodokanalsbyt one of the industry leaders.

Prompt interaction with direct suppliers of materials and equipment allows us to set prices recommended by manufacturers. This eliminates multiple intermediary markups, overpayments and additional payments.

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The cost of work is also fixed and does not increase in the process of execution.

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RADIATOR REPLACEMENT COST
HEATING - 2 400 RUB.
(WHEN REPLACING 2 OR MORE RADIATORS)

*The final cost of installation and consumables is calculated by a field specialist and depends on
the complexity of the work, the required type of connection and type of connection (threaded, welded, polypropylene, cross-linked
polyethylene, presence/absence of bypass, etc.)
The cost of sections (calculated by area).

ADVANTAGES OF VODOKANALSBYT

• More than 15 years of work in the field of sanitary communications;
• Warranty for work from 5 years;
• Warranty for radiators and components from 10 years;
• Free consultations;
• Qualified specialists;
• Preparation and production of components for individual orders;
• Replacement of heating radiators on welding and threaded connections.

What you need to know when installing heating radiators?

The heating system is the most important element of comfort of any apartment or house. It ensures the desired air temperature in the room, regardless of the weather outside. That is why only professionals should be involved in installing heating batteries in apartments and houses.

The heating system works under high pressure, and there are no trifles with it. In addition, existing radiators made of different materials are designed for specific loads and operating modes. With an ill-conceived and illiterate approach, the efficiency of even expensive premium equipment can decrease. And unqualified installation of heating radiators carries a real threat of accidents and leaks, which may cause large financial losses.

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