Proper installation of windows in a log house. Tips, reviews, expert recommendations, cost, recommended manufacturers

An integral attribute in the construction of a house are windows, which can be made of wood, metal structures and various kinds of polymers. Although the process of installing windows in log house seems simple, it can bring a lot of grief, if you do not take into account certain patterns when working with wood products.

There are two main and most used methods used when attaching window structures to the opening:

Fastening directly through the box
Fastening with a questionnaire plate made of metal materials, which clings to a special plastic lock installed on the outside of the box.
Of course, if you compare both methods, you will not do without the advantages of one over the other.
Thus, the first method looks somewhat laborious, because it is required to remove all window sashes and double-glazed windows from the frame during installation. However, as a compensation, the window is actually mounted in the opening of any size, which guarantees the transfer of loads directly to metal carcass window construction.
The second method, in turn, simplifies the process of installing the window in a horizontal position, and also allows you to leave no marks on the ends. plastic surfaces.
Each group of specialists can argue for a long time about which of the methods is the most effective, but as you understand, this is purely their opinion, which means that it all depends on which group of installers you get. No, there is a factor of metal fittings located inside the window frame, but it is usually not as significant as the personal preferences of professionals.
Judging by the reviews of companies whose specialization is the installation and adjustment of plastic windows, the first method is simpler and more versatile. In all other respects, the installation process is tritely simple and one might even say boring:
- the window opening is freed from all double-glazed windows and canvases that have already been installed earlier
- the free frame is exposed by means of spacer wedges. At the same time, the horizontality and verticality of the installed structure are strictly observed, since even at this stage the final result may suffer from this.
- special holes are drilled in the frame, in which the perimeter of the window structure will be attached further
- the process of fixing the frame with bolts is carried out
- double-glazed windows and window sheets are mounted in their original position
- without fail, the joint between the wall and sealed with foam.

The final touch will be the removal of the protective film from the window profiles, the adjustment of the fittings, as well as the sealing of the external seams. At this point, the process can safely be considered completed.

Which window company to choose

Which firm to choose? To answer this question, you need to clearly know by what criteria to look for a company. And this question in this article we will reveal completely.

To start replacing windows in your or your home is to choose a company that provides services for the production and installation of windows. Here it is worth paying attention to the age of the company, the more it is, the better, since experience is a very important attribute both in installing windows and in any other business. Also, if a company has been on the market for a long time, then it has more qualified specialists. Another plus may be the presence of an up-to-date website where you can find the range of services provided and their prices. And finally, do not neglect the opinions of other buyers - talk to your friends, read on the Internet who says what about any company.
If you were told that the window was made from a German profile, please specify whether this profile was brought from Europe or was already produced in Russia on German equipment, observing all quality standards? The cost of the product depends on what they answer you. For example, if the profile is still imported, straight from Germany, then it will cost significantly more than, say, a PVC profile made in Russia, although the difference in quality will be quite small. In addition, the design of domestic products is designed specifically for our temperate climate.
More important point- you need to find out where and how the window is assembled. Few people are able to provide full-scale production, which includes the production of a profile, the installation of an insulating glass unit and the assembly of a finished window structure. If the company provides such production, then it bears full responsibility for its product. So which company to choose plastic windows.
Third point. There are manufacturers and dealers in the window business. The latter, as a rule, are representatives of the former in the regions. There are also unscrupulous window companies that pretend to be dealers of large and well-known window manufacturers, trying to raise their prestige and, as a result, the price for services. In order not to be deceived, you need to immediately find out where the factory is located, what technologies are used, the assembly is fully automatic or there is human labor, and who to contact if a marriage is detected. The location of the place of production may also depend on the time of execution of the order. Don't be stingy. If you order very cheap windows, then the quality will be, respectively, below average. Windows are not installed for a year or two, they should last for decades. From which we can conclude: the material from which the windows are made must be of high quality, the manufacturing technologies must be reliable and proven in practice. All this costs a little more than "the cheapest windows in town." Find out exactly what you pay for and what you get in the end.
A very common trick of the question of which window company to choose is the price for a certain “ standard window". What is considered a "standard window"? This is usually a window with dimensions of 140 by 140 centimeters, divided in half by an impost. One of the halves has a sash opening in two planes. In a double-glazed window one chamber, 24 millimeters. Also included in the kit is a “mosquito”, a window sill, 250 mm wide and a low tide, 150 mm. In order to attract a client, sellers specifically “forget” to indicate the cost of certain parts.
When choosing a window, always ask if the product is certified. In our country, the certification of plastic windows is regulated by GOST 30674-99, double-glazed windows in particular by GOST 24866-99. A certain insurance against marriage can also be certificates of testing of window parts carried out by the manufacturer himself.
Always carefully read the contract about what warranty obligations the manufacturer assumes. The service life of products is also important. Remember that the product warranty makes it possible to change the window if a defect is found within no more than 3-5 years.
The expiration date of individual parts is an estimated figure. It is taken in accordance with the test results that the part was subjected to in the laboratory. For example, a profile can serve perfectly for about fifty years, and fittings will require replacement in seven or eight years.
And finally, when buying a window, it happens that for the buyer the main criterion is “excellent heat and sound insulation”. This is wrong. Because the Russian energy efficiency program implies that windows comply with energy and heat saving standards.
I think now you have figured out which window company to choose, but of course choosing the right window is somewhat more difficult than it seems. However, if you take into account all the subtleties, then you can easily choose the best option in terms of price-quality ratio.

Window installation prices

Installation of one product* (installation of a window in a panel house with insulation of the outer seam)

1257 rub./sq.m.
Installation in a “Stalinist” house (taking into account additional electronics up to 15 sq.m.) * (installation of a window in a brick house with insulation of the outer seam)

1257 rub./sq.m.
Installation in a panel or brick house (area less than 1 sq.m.)

1212 rubles/item
Installation of aluminum loggias

1120 rub./sq.m.
Dismantling old windows without saving frames

For free
Dismantling of existing structures of loggias and balconies up to 3 meters long

1049 rubles/item
Dismantling metal fence(handrails)

622 rubles / piece
High-altitude work using special technical means (work with tours)

An integral attribute in the construction of a house are windows, which can be made of wood, metal structures and various kinds of polymers. Despite the fact that the process seems simple, it can bring a lot of grief if you do not take into account certain patterns when working with wood products. The principle here is the same and it does not matter what the house is made of, from a log or a bar. In both cases, a casing bar is placed in the window opening.

Mark the window opening with a plumb line. In this case, a simple building level not enough. For sawing a window opening, it is better to use a chain saw, which is now a large selection in specialty stores. Cut an opening to size with a saw so that the hole captures at least half of the upper and lower logs in the log house.

Using a chain or circular saw, and even better a router, select a groove 50mm wide and 50mm deep at the end of the wall. With a chisel and a chisel, manually clean the ends of the groove and nail the bar 50mm. It is important to take into account the humidity of the log house. Whether it is a fresh log house or already stood-shut down. In the presence of a log house made of fresh wood, the length of the bar should be 5 cm less than the length of the groove. In case the log house has shrunken by 2 cm.

Take a wide board, 50mm wide and nail it to the bar. The width of the board should correspond to the thickness of the log in the log house. Nail the boards to the top and bottom logs to form the window opening. It is better to use special nails for this, which are then drowned and the holes can be processed with putty.

For the accuracy of determining the angles, use a square when installing the window frame. Install the window on the mounting foam. Using a sheathing board, close the window from the outside along the perimeter. From the inside, close the layout. Sheathe the window opening with a board. Nail the board only to the lower log so that it does not create obstacles when the log house shrinks.

Mount the window on self-tapping screws and mounting foam. Mounting foam is best chosen in relation to weather conditions. It must be remembered that ultraviolet rays have a destructive effect on the mounting foam. Be sure to impregnate all wooden components with an antiseptic, which in a wide range sold in hardware stores. Adhering to this technology and order, you will independently cope with this seemingly difficult task.

in a wooden house

Currently, more and more PVC windows are installed in wooden buildings- It does not make sense to install ordinary wooden windows in log buildings, which have extremely low thermal insulation properties. Specialists who deal with the problems of applying new construction technologies agree that it will be much more practical to use modern heat-saving structures.

Plastic windows consist of several key elements:
plastic frame from PVC profile;
sealed double-glazed window with two sealing contours between the sashes and the frame;
fittings, thanks to which the inhabitants of the house have the ability to close and open the window.

It is extremely important that the installation of all these components takes place in compliance with technological process- the installation of plastic windows in wooden houses has a number of features that are not taken into account by all specialized companies. At the same time, improper installation will have an extremely negative impact on the duration of the operation of the structure, therefore it is worth considering step by step how this process should be carried out.

In the first year after the construction of the house, due to the shrinkage of the tree, the log house settles quite noticeably, sometimes losing up to ten percent of the height, because PVC windows cannot be installed directly into the openings. A drying log will put pressure on the profile, which can not only make it difficult to open it, but also damage the frame - and the owner of the house will need urgent window repairs.

To prevent such an unpleasant incident, the window is installed in a "casing" or "pit" - that is, a special frame is assembled from a bar to compensate for the shrinkage of the house walls. The frame ensures unhindered vertical movement of window blocks and enhances the strength of the entire building. Casing boxes are attached to the walls not rigidly, but through sliding bars. Therefore, it is necessary to pre-arrange vertical grooves in window openings.

Unfortunately, only a small amount of organizations, which means the inevitable repair of windows in the near future - unless the owner himself monitors the installation of the "pigtail".

In addition, false covers should be used to give the windows a traditional look. They are a thin decorative profile glued on both sides of the glass.

Wooden windows in a wooden house: installation rules

Most people cannot imagine wooden country houses without wooden windows. They warm the room and the soul, do not disturb the favorable microclimate in the house, and harmonize with nature. But the most important thing (if the windows are installed in accordance with all the rules) is the “tree-tree” principle: when the house shrinks, the structures of walls and windows behave the same way. The main thing to remember is that the installation of windows in a wooden house is significantly different from the installation of windows in houses built using any other technology.

Theory
When installing windows in a wooden house, the main features should be taken into account natural material- drying out of wood and shrinkage of house structures. In houses made of rounded or chopped logs, solid planed or profiled timber in the first 3–5 years, shrinkage can reach from 6 to 15% of the height of the building. In houses made of glued laminated timber, shrinkage is much less - only up to 2%, but this will inevitably affect the integrity of windows and doors if they are installed in the usual way. If the window structures are deformed, the sashes become tight (or completely stop) tearing off and closing, the double-glazed window is cracked, intervention gaps have formed in the walls - it means that the windows were installed in violation of the technology. To prevent this from happening, several rules should be observed.

Rule #1
In chopped houses, houses made of logs, planed or profiled timber, it is better to install window (and door) carriages after the house has given the main shrinkage, that is, after 1–1.5 years. It is not recommended to install windows and doors immediately after assembling the log house, since in this case it is impossible to calculate the shrinkage of wall structures. The amount of shrinkage depends on the moisture content of the wood: the higher it is, the greater the shrinkage of the house.

In houses made of glued laminated timber, windows and doors can be installed immediately after the assembly of wall structures and roofing. In such houses, the percentage of shrinkage is easier to calculate.

Rule #2
It is possible to install windows and doors in any wooden houses only using sliding joints (the so-called casing boards or casing and sliding bars). Fastening window blocks and casing to logs or timber is unacceptable! Rigid fastening during shrinkage will certainly lead to deformation of the window (door) and wall structures of the house. In fact, window structures should move separately from the walls. To do this, cuts 50x50 mm in size are made in the window opening at the ends of the logs (or timber), and the so-called slip bar is inserted. A casing board (or box) is attached to this bar on tow or a tape seal (for example, from jute), and a window block is already attached to it. In this case, the screws with which the window block is attached must be screwed into the sliding bar (but not through). This technology will allow the walls to settle freely, without putting pressure on the window structures and without deforming them. Doors are installed in the same way.

Rule #3
From above, above the boxes of windows (doors), a margin for shrinkage is needed - gaps of about 6-7 cm in size. They are also filled with insulation (for example, tow). By the way, incorrectly calculated gaps very often cause windows and doors that do not close, and logs or timber hanging over the boxes lead to the formation of cracks in the walls between the crowns.

Rule #4
Platbands (both on the inside and on the outside) should be fastened with nails to the casing board, and not to the wall of the house. And finally, different companies provide a guarantee for the installation of windows for a period of one to five years. Be careful: according to the requirements of GOST, the guarantee must be at least three years.

1. If the grooves for the slide bar were not made at the factory, then, before making a cut, guide bars are installed. With the help of special equipment, grooves are cut exactly in the center.

2. A sliding bar is driven into the groove. At the same time, it is necessary to leave gaps for shrinkage of the walls above and below.

3. Before installing the casing boards, a heater is laid between the end of the log and the casing board (in this case, tape insulation made of jute).

4. Casing boards are fixed with nails into the slip block. Important: the nail must enter strictly into the sliding bar, without entering the end of the log!

5. The upper casing board is installed and fastened so that a gap of about 6-7 cm remains between the upper casing board and the log, so that when the walls shrink, the upper log does not press on the casing salary.

6. A window block is installed in the casing.

7. Space between casing and vapor barrier film around the perimeter of the windows fill mounting foam. The distance between the upper casing board and the log is filled with insulation and covered with a casing.

8. Platbands are attached strictly to the casing salary. Drive nails into log walls it is impossible, this will interfere with the natural shrinkage of the walls, which will lead to deformation of the platbands. When the house shrinks, the casing must move along with the casing and the window structure, regardless of the walls of the house.

9. Install metal ebbs.

10. After installing the tides, the lower element of the casing is fixed.

11. The window is ready.

Do-it-yourself window repair and painting

There are no trifles in repairs, because every detail eventually adds up to a common whole, on which depends how the apartment will look after the repair is completed. An important stage is the repair of windows and painting. Let's take a closer look at the window painting process. This type work requires tangible financial and labor costs, but the result, with due diligence, will please the eye!

When repairing windows yourself, you must follow certain steps. There are five steps in total:
removing old paint from window surfaces;
polishing the surfaces of window profiles;
putty windows;
priming window surfaces for subsequent painting;
window painting.

Compliance with all these steps will allow you to get an excellent result. You should not skip any of these stages, since each of them is important in its own way and, to one degree or another, affects the final result. To appreciate the importance of each of the stages and understand the subtleties, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with them in more detail.

Stage 1. Removing old paint from window surfaces
When repairing windows on your own, this stage is the most significant and time-consuming. It can take a long time to remove the old paintwork, but it must be done. Moreover, it should be done carefully, and not anyhow. To do this, you may need a set of the most different instruments from abrasive paper to sophisticated electrical equipment. The method of removing old paint depends on its type, there are three options in total: mechanical method, chemical method and thermal removal.

The mechanical method involves the use of so-called "cleaning" attachments for orbital and straight grinders, as well as angle grinders (angle grinders). This method is the most economical and fastest of all. The only negative is the fine dust that appears during the work. But if the tool is equipped with dust extraction systems and dust collectors, this problem will not be so acute.

The chemical method is reduced to the use of special compounds based on strong acids or trinitrochloromethane.
thermal method great for living spaces. Used to remove paintwork building hair dryers. This method is quite expensive.

Stage 2. Grinding the surfaces of window profiles
After completion of the first stage, there may be residual defects on the window surfaces. As a rule, these are small pieces of old paint that could not be removed. On wooden structures, the "pile" of wood fibers may also appear. And of course, that these defects must be removed, this can be done with the help of finishing grinding. Thanks to grinding, the surfaces of window profiles become smooth, which has a positive effect on the service life of the paintwork.

Stage 3. Puttying windows
At this stage of self-repair of windows, surfaces are puttyed. This process allows you to get an almost even surface to be finished, to hide visible defects. Before starting work, it is necessary to remove dirt and putty an already clean surface. After the putty has completely dried, wipe off the excess with a fine-grained mesh or abrasive paper.

Stage 4. Priming of window surfaces
The penultimate stage of do-it-yourself window repair is the priming of surfaces. This is done so that the new paintwork fits well on the surface of the window. Please note that before starting the primer, it is necessary to degrease and clean the surfaces.

Stage 5. Painting the window
The final stage of window repair is the application of a new paintwork. The paint should be distributed evenly, painting can be done with, or using a spray gun. When performing self-repair of windows, do not forget that the paint should be applied in 2-3 layers. Before applying the next layer, you must wait until the previous layer dries well.

As you can see, do-it-yourself window repair has a number of features, requires certain skills and a large number time, so we recommend enlisting the help of professionals.

in a wooden house

It would seem that there is nothing easier installation finished plastic window. However, if you plan to put such a window in a wooden house, then you need to take into account the features wooden buildings. The main and most unpleasant of them is the shrinkage of logs or timber. If this property is not taken into account, then installing plastic windows with your own hands in a wooden house can lead to numerous window breakages. Of course, the window will not start to break right away, but it will not make it easier for you - correcting your mistakes will be already difficult and more costly than doing everything right right away. And how is it necessary?

It is necessary to properly prepare the window opening and make a casing structure. It is used so that the window in the opening is not only firmly fixed in it, but also does not “feel” the shrinkage of the logs on itself - that is, the window in this case is isolated from the log house.

Why is it not suitable for a plastic window simple design casing box? That's why - when installing a plastic window, special fasteners are used. If you make the first version of the casing, then there is nothing to fasten these fasteners.

This means that the casing should be such as to make the window opening more reliable and take into account the peculiarities of installing a pvc window. We do the following: we cut logs at the ends window opening not a groove, but a ridge. Then we will put a specially made carriage with a groove on it. In this case, the logs of the window opening, which have a ridge at the ends, will not sit along the window frame, but inside the gun carriage - sliding, as if on a sled. There will be no pressure on the window, which means there will be no curvature. You can read about how to make each part of the casing box in the articles on the window opening, gun carriage and casing. Here I will talk about the final point of installing plastic windows with my own hands in a wooden house - installing a plastic window in a finished window opening with a casing.
Preparing to install a pvc window

So, the casing is ready, it's time to install a window in it. Once again we measure everything, check the level and plumb line for the correct location of the horizontal and vertical parts casing structure. As for the dimensions of the resulting window opening with a casing, it is important to remember about the “margin” for shrinkage - about 5 cm in height, for foaming - about 2 cm wide and high, and the distance left for the window sill - 4 cm.

After making sure that all dimensions are met, we proceed directly to the installation of the window. This needs to be done technically. When buying a window, special fasteners are usually bought, which are fixed at the end of the frame, where technical skids are made for them. Be sure to use fasteners, because by screwing a plastic window through the frame, you will negate the main advantages of a pvc window: tightness and thermal insulation.

To prevent the installation of the window from taking too much effort, remove the sashes with double-glazed windows - this way you will install an empty frame, which is much lighter assembled window. And yes, it's easier to hold. To do this, remove the pin holding the sash from the hinges.

The main thing is to insert correctly!

First, when installing the window, you will again need a level. Without it, the window may be inserted with an inclination, which can lead to its uncontrollability during operation - a spontaneously closing or opening window is not very convenient. By the way, remember about foaming - in order not to accidentally "lose" the distance necessary for it, put a cap under the frame. And don't forget to remove it afterwards.

Having aligned the frame, we proceed to fixing it in the casing. The most important thing here is to maintain the functionality of the casing structure. That is - correctly screw the screws. In no case do not screw them into the crest of the window opening. You can pre-mark the "forbidden zone" on the gun carriage.

Now we take out a chip from under the frame, hang the sashes and foam the window around the perimeter with mounting foam.

Windows Installation Instructions

Do-it-yourself window installation
This window installation manual is designed mainly for the installation of windows in wooden houses, in summer cottages. The installation instructions for windows are advisory in nature and should be adjusted to individual characteristics Houses. It is not recommended to install windows with your own hands without proper qualifications and experience.

The plastic window you purchased is a fully finished product, consisting of a frame (box), double-glazed windows, and for tilt and turn-and-turn windows, also sashes and fittings. And since you decide to install a window with your own hands, then you must understand that from correct installation plastic window depends on how long it will serve you. Take advantage of our advice.

Before buying a window, you need to make sure that the existing window openings are suitable. Otherwise, you need to either change the dimensions of the opening, or select a window of a different size. If both options do not suit you, you need to order a window by individual sizes, based on the dimensions of the window opening that is currently available. Depending on whether you are installing a window with or without a window sill profile, the height of which is 30mm, the table shows the recommended minimum and maximum size window opening, taking into account the expansion of the foam.

Window installation tools
To install (install) a plastic window, you need: a screwdriver, a level, a drill (perforator), a tape measure, pliers, a plastic chisel, a wooden hammer or a rubber mallet, a hexagon for adjusting windows, gloves, mounting foam, anchor plates (mounting plates), self-tapping screws or anchor bolts, expansion wedges (including self-made ones made of wood), water in a spray bottle. It is strongly not recommended to install windows at a temperature of -10 C and below, with heavy rain and wind of more than 15 m/s.

General view of the window
1. Frame (box); 2. Sash; 3. Impost; 4. Bead; 5. Double-glazed window; 6. Fittings; 7. Window profile

Preparing to Install a Window
1. Before installing the window, check the compliance overall dimensions windows and window openings. The gaps between the installed window and the window opening left after the old window was dismantled should be about 2 cm left, top, right and bottom. In extreme cases, the window can be installed on the window sill profile without a gap directly on the window opening.
2. Remove the old window frame. If the size of the window opening allows, dismantle the old wooden box, because installation is more reliable to carry out directly in the walls of the house.
3. Then you need to remove the sash from the window:
- open the sash (Fig. 2)

Remove the pin from the upper hinge (it is removed from the bottom of the hinge for convenience, it can be picked up with a screwdriver or pliers) (Fig. 3)
4. If the window or part of the window is deaf, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed window. Remove the bead first. Long glazing beads are removed first, then short ones. Usually, in the deaf parts, the glazing bead is not completely clogged in production. This allows you to easily remove it from the window with a plastic chisel.

5. Remove protective film from the outside of the window. Otherwise, under the influence of external weather factors, it will become thin and fragile and in the future it will be very difficult to remove it.

Window Installation (Window Installation)
Window installation - Window installation is carried out by two types of fasteners: directly through the holes in the frame, depending on the material of the walls, with self-tapping screws or anchor bolts, or through anchor plates that are attached to the window frame. In both options, fasteners must be installed according to the following rules:
- the minimum distance from the corners of the frame to the first fastener should be no more than 15 cm,
- the distance between fasteners should not exceed 70 cm,
- distance from the impost - no more than 15 cm (Fig. 5),
- it is not necessary to fasten the bottom of the frame
- the top of the frame is attached to one fastener with a frame width of up to 70 cm, two fasteners from 71 to 150 cm, three fasteners with a frame width of 151 to 230 cm, and fasteners must be placed at the mullion if the window is divided by the mullion (Fig. 4).
When installing on anchor plates, it is necessary to fix the plates on the window frame using self-tapping screws (Fig. 4).
When installing the window on anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws, it is necessary to drill holes in the window frame. All holes in the frame must be made from the outside.
1. Install the window frame in the opening. If there is a “quarter” in the window opening, press the window frame into the quarter. It is not recommended to install a window by outer wall at home, it is better to place somewhere from the center of the wall to the inner edge, depending on the thickness of the wall and the method.
Position the frame in the opening so that the gaps on the left and right are the same. Align the window with a level and use expansion wedges to fix the frame in a vertical and horizontal plane. It is especially important to install a spacer wedge directly next to the attachment point so that when the bolt or self-tapping screw is tightened, the frame is not deformed.
2. If you are installing windows in a wooden house, then through drilled holes in the frame, you can fix the window with long self-tapping screws directly into the wall. If the window is installed on anchor bolts, then first you need to make marks on the wall through the holes in the frame. Then, take out the frame, make holes in the wall, install the dowel, return the frame to the opening, check the level horizontally and vertically again, and fix the frame.
When installing on anchor plates, it is not necessary to remove the window again after leveling. Bend the anchor plates in place so that they are pressed against the wall. Attach the plates to the wall. The fastening of the plate to the wall is selected depending on the material of the wall.
3. Now install the previously removed sashes and double-glazed windows on the installed window frame.
4. Check the opening and closing of all leaves. The sashes should open freely, without obstructions. The seals must fit snugly against the frame around the entire perimeter of the sash. If necessary, adjust the fittings with a hexagon.
5. Now you need to foam the seam around the entire perimeter of the frame from the inside of the room. For this, there is a pistol mounting foam. The brand of polyurethane foam must be chosen depending on the season and weather conditions. Work is best done with gloves. Before filling the perimeter with foam, moisten the opening with water. So the foam will not lag behind the wall and slide. Fill carefully, in a small layer (approximately 2/3 of the frame thickness). It should be noted that the foam does not expand equally when different temperatures. Read the instructions on the bottles.
If foam gets on the frame, allow to dry, then remove by cutting with a thin knife.
6. Be sure to install water drains on the windows, fixing them to the stand profile (window profile) from the outside with self-tapping screws. If the width of the wall allows, then the space under the drainage system must be foamed, otherwise a “tinny ringing” will be heard during rain. Otherwise, it is better to order window drainage of a minimum width.
The presence of a drainage system prevents water from entering under the window and protects the outer wall from getting wet.
7. After the mounting foam has dried, you need to install the window sill. It is installed in a special recess in the stand (window) profile, which is at the bottom of the frame. If you installed the window from below on expansion wedges, then the space under the window sill must also be filled with foam. If the wall of the house is narrow, then the window sill must be fixed from below with consoles (corners).
8. We advise you not to open the windows for the first 16 hours after installation. A slight movement of the frame can lead to a violation of the assembly seam.
9. Finishing of external slopes is carried out no more than 3 days after the installation of the window. Be sure to close the mounting seam from the street side, because. under the influence of the sun and moisture, the polyurethane foam quickly collapses.
10. Remove the protective film from the inside of the window. Install the decorative trims on the hinges and secure the window handle.

Window opening pattern
Changing from one opening position to another is carried out only through intermediate pressing of the sash to the frame. Otherwise, the sash may come off the top hinge. To correct the situation, it is necessary to firmly press the sash to the frame and switch the handle to the “closed” mode.

Care instructions
In case of contamination of plastic surfaces, it is enough to wipe with a damp cloth moistened with water or soapy water. Do not use abrasive detergents!
It is required once a year to lubricate the moving parts of the fittings with machine oil.
Wipe the sealing gums from dust and dirt with a damp, non-soapy cloth. At least once a year, treat with a spray based on silicone oil (glycerin).

Windows are an important part of the interior. They decorate our home from the inside and out, allow light to penetrate into our home, make it cozier and more comfortable. It is very important to choose best option windows and install them correctly. Especially when it comes to a wooden house.

What is important to consider when dealing with a structure made of this natural material - a wooden house, a log house? First of all, wood shrinkage (does not apply to glued beams). In the first, 12 months, it can be up to 20 centimeters from the height. wooden house! Agree, the figure is rather big, especially when it comes to a window opening. Shrinkage of a wooden structure can last up to three years. Accordingly, the size of the window openings will change.

How to install? How to avoid all the problems and restrictions imposed by the unpleasant shrinkage process? For this, a special technology is used. It helps to completely eliminate the effect of shrinkage on the window, its deformation.
What is this technology? The window is mounted in a special salary - a casing box installed in a log house. It allows the house (the walls of a wooden house) to sit down without causing problems to the window, holds the walls horizontally and vertically. The gaps between the window opening and the salary are caulked, which allows the box, as the builders and their reviews and advice say, to “float vertically”, and then they are closed with wooden or other platbands. The window is inserted into the casing of a wooden house, which is absolutely not susceptible to changes in the size and geometry of the window opening.

Is it possible to cope with the installation of windows in a wooden house, a log house on your own? Of course, you can do everything yourself. But here the result in most cases does not bring satisfaction. So that the windows do not deform, look great, make the log house more comfortable and beautiful, you need to know the technology, be able to use certain materials, in a word, be a true specialist. Only a true master can guarantee the result.

The same real, qualified and experienced craftsmen there are, but of course, like all good things, there are not as many of them as we would like. Moreover, specialists and craftsmen who can install windows in residential multi-apartment concrete and brick houses, here, in construction wooden houses are not always suitable. The thing is that the wall of a wooden house in which the window will be installed is, as it were, "alive", it (the wall of a wooden house) moves vertically depending on the moisture gained by a log or beam. The greater the humidity of the log house, the larger the log (timber) and the walls of the house made of wood, as if they live an independent life, unlike a window, whether it is a plastic window or a window made of dry glued laminated timber.

But, if you still have a desire to install a window not with your own hands, or with the hands of guest workers - "Africans", then call or write us an application for installing windows in your country wooden house - log house, we can offer you real specialists - craftsmen your business.

Materials needed to install windows.

First of all, it is worth noting that when performing installation and dismantling work, it is necessary to protect open areas of the hands with gloves.
You can buy cheap gloves in St. Petersburg on our website.
Each stage requires its own tool. For dismantling, we use the most important tool - scrap.

With the help of a crowbar, first we remove the sashes of the old window, for this we put the crowbar under the sash and pry it up - the sash should be removed from the hinges. Next, we saw through the impost - the part that separates the wings, there may be several of them.

After that old frame should come off easily. We remove the old ebb and window sill, clean the opening - it should remain clean. If there is a need to bring down the old slopes - we do it at this stage, we use a puncher and a spatula. Most often, the slopes are knocked down in the houses of the old fund with wide slopes (about 50 cm). Please note that good specialist for the installation of windows immediately (before dismantling) determines the need to knock down old slopes, otherwise all the dirt and pieces of the wall may fall down, which is contrary to safety regulations.

Such a need arises if the old slopes do not make it possible to install new ones. We remind you that new slopes should not be at right angles to the window or look inside the window, but should be deployed. Distance between wall and plastic slope filled with mounting foam. The seam between the slope and the wall is closed with a PVC corner, most often 3 cm is used.

Installing a new window.

To install a new window, first of all, you need a measuring tool such as:
Roulette, pencil, level (preferably use two levels - small and large).
Main tool:
A puncher with drills for 6 and for 10 - a drill for 10 is necessary if the window is installed on the anchor, if we install it on plates, then a drill for 6 will be enough.
A drill driver with a set of bits and a drill for 10 - with a drill for 10 we drill the window profile, if it is installed on an anchor. We fasten the ebb to the frame with a screwdriver.
Foam gun - very handy tool for foaming, with it you can adjust the speed of foam output.
A construction knife with a hammer - with their help, wooden mortgages are cut to fix the frame.
Metal shears - needed to cut off the drainage.
Stationery knife with a set of blades - to cut off the dried foam.
Slope finishing.

Slope mounting tool:
Jigsaw - for sawing slopes.
Caulking gun - to close the seam between the slopes and the frame.
Hacksaw for metal - to cut off the corners of PVC. - to plaster the external slopes and the space under the windowsill.
Molar tape - to fix the slopes until the mounting foam dries.

The simple installation of windows in a house made of timber allows the owners to carry out all the work without the invitation of the master. It is enough to correctly make all the measurements necessary for the construction, select tools, purchase materials and windows. The nuances that exist in each such procedure are comprehended in the process of work. You need to be patient and get to work.

To install windows in a house from a bar, you will need to take measurements, prepare tools and buy the necessary materials.

The specifics of installing windows in a timber building

Any type of building is erected taking into account the openings that are left for the installation of windows and the installation of doors. But if all known building materials allow such a procedure to be carried out almost immediately after construction, then installation in wooden houses can begin 1-2 years after their construction. The condition is dictated by the fact that natural material may show shrinkage. Although buildings made from glued laminated timber prove to be very durable, it is better to wait for the prescribed period and avoid future reconstructions.

The window is never mounted directly into the base of the wall, but only in a box, which should protect the structure from possible deformation as much as possible. Before starting work, the tree in the opening is always checked for the possible appearance of rot, defects, accidental damage during this time. If they are noticed, it is necessary to deal with their immediate elimination and additional processing antiseptic substances.

Since the design can still give at least a slight shrinkage over time, a small (up to 7 cm) gap is left between the box and the sides of the opening. At the end of the process, it is filled with appropriate materials and closed to prevent drafts and to ensure the integrity of the building. For some reason, the installation of plastic windows is considered inappropriate for timber structures. The opinion is erroneous, since their installation is the simplest. If white PVC windows look ugly, you can purchase wood-like structures or paint additional elements of the building white.

In order to ensure that the quality of the mounting foam does not deteriorate due to wood evaporation, builders use polyethylene foam foil tape, which provides the necessary shielding. After measurements, windows with smaller dimensions of about 3-3.5 cm are selected, the width of the window sill is selected taking into account the possible placement of a radiator inside the room. The window sill cannot fully cover heater: the PVC window itself is also harmed, and heat transfer is significantly reduced. If plastic side plugs are sold with the product, these must be purchased and used during installation.

Preparing the window opening before installation

Use during installation construction foam necessarily. It guarantees the necessary rigidity of the structure, its durability, the necessary insulation.

So that the foam itself does not suffer from climatic phenomena, it is additionally also isolated with building materials. The foam sample is selected depending on the time of year when the installation will take place. Since the material has the ability to increase, builders are advised to carry out blowing in small segments so that voids do not form in the final version. Work on the installation of windows, in contrast to the construction of the building, is carried out even in winter.

A prerequisite before starting installation in wooden houses is the absence of dust, debris, remnants of building materials based on the opening. If the installation is carried out as part of the reconstruction, removing the previous structure, you must carefully remove the upper fragile layer. So, the foam is guaranteed to adhere firmly, will not peel off in the future, forcing you to start the installation again. If in the end it turns out that the gap between the window and the box is somewhat larger, it is filled with improvised building materials:

• the remnants of the timber;
• foam;
• drywall;
• bricks.

Install small window quite simple: no need to remove double-glazed windows and sashes, installation is carried out directly. Large structures it is desirable to mount in the same way, without violating the integrity provided at the factory.

It is absolutely impossible to put the window flat before starting work or to allow distortions.

The window itself can be damaged, and pebbles, remnants of building material will damage or even break the glass.

Protective film available on all similar structures, is removed immediately, since after installation it will not be easy to get rid of it after a while: you will have to steam it with a hair dryer, which will worsen the look of the window and may damage the PVC surface.

The standard dimensions of the indents from the impost and corners are at least 15 cm. At the same time, if special mounting plates are used for do-it-yourself mounting, fastening is carried out in advance using self-tapping screws, for which holes are made on the frame from the outside. Contrary to the recommendations, it is better to install the PSUL protective tape at the end of the work, and not at the very beginning.

Do-it-yourself frame installation

Before installing a window, it is worth considering that the technology of the work being carried out depends solely on the strength of the houses and the size of the structure. Fixation is carried out mainly by two methods:

• dowels or anchors (introduced into the walls through pre-drilled holes);
• toothed plates (attached with screws without damaging the wall).

The choice depends solely on the desire of the person doing the installation with their own hands, but the first method is recognized as more durable and efficient. His quality characteristics guarantee that the window will not be damaged as a result of intensive use for a very long time.

The step-by-step installation of the product is as follows: wooden blocks or plastic corners are located in the corners to ensure the necessary gap, the frame is inserted so that all gap sizes are the same. When using self-tapping screws, do not screw them in too hard, until they stop. After additional verification of the correct location of the window with a plumb line and level, the final fixation is carried out, for which you need to insert the window.

Having started work, leave the structure in an unfinished position for long time it is impossible: it will begin to bend, deform, which will lead to the need to buy a new product. Screwing is completed as soon as the surface of the cap is aligned with the frame or protrudes 1-2 mm above it. Further, all existing gaps are additionally filled with foam, all foamed seams, after drying and leveling, if necessary, are covered with protective tapes, which are slightly recessed from the outside.

The gap under the place for the outflow of water is filled with foam, and after its complete polymerization, the window sill that comes with the product is installed. It is inserted to a depth of 2 cm and fixed. The window sill cannot be located perfectly evenly (only at a slight slope), which will ensure the drainage of moisture. To do this, it is foamed from below in the space remaining between the house and the window sill.

The window opening must be completely ready no later than 3 days from the start of work. So, it will be possible to avoid possible deformation of the material, the structure itself. But you can't use the product right away. The window should not be touched for about a day to avoid possible damage to the installation. Own house- This is a great responsibility. If the owner is not going to spend self-installation windows, you can hire a team of installers.

It is rare that a house can be compared in beauty with a wooden cottage or a house made of profiled timber material. But the construction and decoration of such houses requires a very balanced and professional approach to individual details. For example, inept or illiterate window decoration in a house made of glued laminated timber can not only affect the appearance, but also lead to serious problems indoors.

How to properly prepare a window

Before choosing the shape of the platbands and the method of finishing the windows, it is necessary to properly glaze the window openings, taking into account the settlement of the walls from glued laminated timber and changes in the height of the crowns:

• The window frame is mounted in the opening only on the prepared casing frame. The fastening of the window is carried out using construction screws driven from the inside of the frame into the thickness of the casing key;
• A lining profile must be laid under the window frame. Most often, the profile is attached to the lower edge of the frame before installation in the window opening;
• Slots along the lower edge of the window and a third of the height of the side pillars of the window frame are foamed with mounting foamed polyurethane. Upper expansion gap and the remaining side cavities are tightly clogged with jute fiber.

To prevent moisture from leaking into the cracks between the window and the end surface of the glued laminated timber, the openings around the perimeter of the windows are covered with a film and rough platbands made of ordinary unedged board. The final settlement of walls made of glued high-quality timber will be completed in about six months, so finishing can begin no earlier than 5-6 months after the installation of windows.

Important! Installation of a window in a house made of glued laminated timber should be carried out only with the use of an intermediate casing frame.

Of course, the casing and side ends of the glued beam must be treated with a waterproof compound and an antiseptic for outdoor use.

Why is it so important to use casing

A large number of home-grown experts are trying to present glued laminated timber as a material, in structure and properties, reminiscent of waterproof plywood. In reality, glued laminated timber from different manufacturers and brands can seriously differ in such characteristics as wood porosity and the ability to absorb or give off water vapor.

Regardless of what kind of wood the laminated timber is made of - from Karelian pine or young trees cut down at Voronezh sanitary logging, the material still retains the main ability of the wood structure - to absorb and release moisture. There are separate brands of expensive thermostatic wood, in which water absorption is reduced by an order of magnitude, but this is a very expensive material, and glued beams are not made from it.

The settlement of the walls to a large extent depends on the climate and air humidity, but, in any case, the deformation of the window opening from glued laminated timber will be, and will end no earlier than in 4-5 years. But even with a minimum amount of precipitation, the crowns of glued laminated timber easily break double-glazed windows and aluminum frames.

In addition, the casing board is used as a base for fastening architraves and slopes. If, contrary to common sense, the casing is abandoned and the trim elements are fixed directly on the glued laminated timber, it is quite possible that in the fall or spring the trims will simply be torn off the fasteners.

Installing exterior window trim

Finishing operations are best scheduled for a dry and warm period of time. Since some elements are installed using adhesive and polymer compounds, lay vapor barrier membrane or paste easier and faster in the summer.

Standard window finishing is reduced to the sequential installation of protective and decorative elements on the window opening:

1. Installation of a window sill and low tide on the outside of the window;
2. Sealing joints between window frames and the end surface of glued laminated timber;
3. Installation of side slopes and upper decorative strip;
4. Fastening of platbands at the junction line of glued laminated timber with a window block.

All of the above operations can be easily performed by hand, subject to the installation technology. If you have experience in carpentry work, then with a little training you can even make carved or chiseled versions of platbands. For buildings built from glued laminated timber, a more strict monochromatic decor is usually used, carvings and patterns are more suitable for log buildings.

Installation of a window sill, low tide, side slopes

Both a wooden and a metal-plastic frame are equally suitable for a house made of glued timber, all the talk that a plastic window is not suitable for timber walls is just a marketing ploy. For the window sill, you can use the standard plastic version, or make it from a quality oak or pine board.

Advice! For the arrangement of window sills, slopes and platbands, it is necessary to select defect-free material that does not have plugs, knots, cracks and other structural inhomogeneities that can affect the appearance of the product.

Oak, larch, walnut are perfect for exterior decoration. If the surface of the wood is supposed to be painted or tinted, then pine or spruce can be used, which, without coating and toner, eventually fade in the sun to a grayish-white hue. Not suitable for architraves and slopes beech, birch, aspen, they quickly crack under the action of sunlight and lose their original appearance.

To install the window sill, you will need to carefully cut the foam along the bottom edge, removing even those sections that go beyond the frame. The window sill board is marked out, corners are cut out for a joint on the walls of glued beams. The amount of "entry" into the window opening close to the window frame should be at least two thirds of the total width of the board. A pair of thin beacon rails is laid on the base of glued laminated timber, along which the horizontal level of the window sill is verified.

It remains to blow out the supporting surface of the glued laminated timber with foam and lay the board on the beacons, pressing down on top with a 3-5 kg ​​oppression. In the same way, the top bar and side bars are installed on the lighthouse supports. internal slopes, with the only difference being that it is necessary to fix it without using mounting foam, with the help of pins, self-tapping screws or nails with cut heads.

Before installing the trough and external slopes, it is necessary to carefully seal the jute seal and polyurethane foam with a vapor-permeable film or sealant.

The width of the tide installed on the window of the house made of glued beams is chosen such that the drop of the dropper is at least 5 cm. 1.5 cm.

Often wooden panels and the boards are fixed using standard adhesives and self-tapping screws. This method allows you to fix the finish very quickly and reliably, but on a light or tinted background, the heads of the self-tapping screws remain black dots, which spoil the overall impression of the wooden polished surface of the tree.

For fastening the outer slopes and upper planks, you can use ordinary nails - magpies with a cut head. The points from the steel end of the nail, a couple of millimeters in diameter, are almost invisible to the eye.

Experienced carpenters prefer to plant the finish on glued furniture pins. To do this, holes are drilled in the thickness of the glued beam or casing, with a diameter of 8-10 mm and a depth of 15-20 mm. Previously prepared mounting pins made of oak or pine are driven inside the nest, the outer ends of which are treated with paint. Before installation, the cut-out slope bar is put in place and received with reverse side drill imprint. It remains to drill holes in the bar, grease with wood glue and set the slope in place.

Selection and installation of platbands

In addition to the main function - to close the joints between the glued laminated timber and the window opening, platbands are also used as a decorative finish for windows. After the wide distribution of high-quality waterproofing and vapor-permeable films, platbands began to be used mainly for decoration and reinforcement. appearance windows against the background of a wall of glued beams.

The classic material for the manufacture and design of window frames is a wooden plank, rounded or profiled.

For the manufacture of decor, blanks are cut out, equal height windows plus the width of the bar itself. The ends of the blanks are sawn at an angle of 45 °, after which they are ground and adjusted “in place”, laying each mating pair on a wall of glued laminated timber.

The longer a person lives in small cramped apartments made of artificial material, the more often he dreams of having his own big, spacious house. Tired of everyday artificiality, I really want to be as close as possible to nature, and have my own home made of natural material, in which it is easy to breathe, and, therefore, easy to live. It is the tree that is considered the most ancient, very beloved by many ecologically pure material to build your own home.

Imagine how pleasant it is, leaving all the fuss behind you, to relax among the warm, natural walls of a wooden house.

Building a house from a bar is not expensive compared to stone buildings. Many construction companies build turnkey timber houses. You just have to choose a project or develop your own. And the construction of houses will be taken over by professionals.
Timber houses are a small cost, the possibility of finishing with the most various materials, available material, speed of construction. Houses made of timber perfectly keep warm. In such a house it will be cool in the heat, and very warm in the cold.

If you have an almost completed brand new house made of timber, do not rush to quickly insert windows, doors and celebrate housewarming. Only at first glance it seems that inserting windows and doors is a matter of one, two, three. Not at all. Timber houses for this require special specifics and a special approach.

If you give up on all these specifics, then the joy of living in a new house will be short-lived. After a year or two, the timber, due to natural drying, will shrink significantly. From a sufficiently strong vertical pressure, door and window fasteners will shift or, simply, fly out. It is not difficult to guess what will happen to the doors and windows themselves in this case. They will either be thoroughly jammed, or they will do to you in the same way as the gingerbread man did to grandparents in a well-known fairy tale.

A natural question arises: how to be?

The first is to wait for the natural shrinkage of the house from the timber for a year or two. But, even after this period, it is not a fact that the house will stop drying out.

The second is not to wait if you don’t want to, but to act sensibly and competently with windows and doors.

Intelligent and literate means: take care of the correct and reliable casing. In another way, it is also called a pigtail. An okosyachka is a design that helps to strengthen the cut openings for windows and doors. The casing box will perfectly protect window and door blocks. It almost completely ignores the process of shrinking a house from a bar, without changing the shape of the opening.

This design consists of a top (upper crossbar), a threshold (lower crossbar) and side risers. And in a simple way it is called the usual word - a box. There are several variations in the manufacture of pigtails. Her most important job is to protect windows and doors in the construction of a turnkey house.

Three functions of the casing can be distinguished: protective, decorative, and the function of replacing slopes (for windows). When attaching windows / doors to the casing, a small gap of one to two centimeters remains. This gap can be sealed with ordinary mounting foam, and then closed with cash. The foam does not interfere with the "move" of the house, and the box perfectly "holds" the window and door blocks.

So it is possible to install windows and doors only after establishing a special casing. The design of the box will keep your doors and windows from jamming, which means they will serve you long years, pleasing with their impeccable work.

Installing PVC plastic windows in a wooden house at first glance may seem simple process. But, as practice shows, sometimes the installation of plastic windows (double-glazed windows) in wooden houses is subsequently complicated by rather annoying moments that could have been avoided. The fact is that the construction of a log house of a country house from a log or timber is associated with a number of technological features. It is known that a wooden frame shrinks after erection.

During the first year after construction, the shrinkage of the log house is 3-5 cm for every 3 meters of height. Complete shrinkage of the log house occurs in 3-4 years. The process is explained by the drying of the logs and the punching of the sealing material located between the crowns.

In the future, the house behaves like a real living organism. It constantly, although almost imperceptibly to the eye, changes its shape: in wet weather, the tree swells, and in hot weather with moderate humidity it dries out.

With such a movable nature of the log house, the question reasonably arises: “How to install PVC plastic windows in a wooden log house in such a way that the windows do not experience the deforming effect of shrinkage of the log house?”

The installation of plastic windows in a wooden house involves the use of such a structure as a POCKET or, in other words, a CASING BOX.

The casing box allows not only to firmly fix the window in the opening, but also to prevent impact on the entire window construction loads arising during shrinkage bearing walls. Simply put, the pigtail is successfully used to equalize the pressure of the logs on the windows.

Materials used to make the casing:

Lumber:

• a bar (section 50x50 mm) is used as a guide for the vertical movement of the frame;
• timber (section 150x150 mm and 150x200 mm) is used as a vertical stand of the casing in the construction technologies "in a deck" and "in a tenon-monolith";
• edged board (50 * 150 and 50 * 200) is used to make a casing according to the “into a mortgage bar” method.

Lnovatin is a material made of linen fiber and batting, made using needle-punched technology, which is laid between the crowns of the house to insulate the seams. Lnovatin is laid in a pigtail as a sealing material for insulation.

Materials for the "finish slope" technology:

solid coniferous wood of chamber drying of the 1st grade up to 250 mm wide;

glued all-lamellar coniferous carriage, class "A", up to 350 mm wide;

glued gun carriage of class "Extra" from Angarsk pine without knots, type-setting up to 350 mm wide.

log cabin types

It is known that the word "log" was formed from "cut down", "cutting". Therefore, when they build a log house, they say - we cut a log house, but we don’t build a log house.

A log cabin is a solid wooden structure, cut down from solid logs. Even in our time, a house made of timber or a house made of logs is also called a log house.

Although the choice of materials for the construction of a wooden house is quite wide, now they mainly use:

• Calibrated log for log cabins
• Rounded log (natural moisture)
• Bar (natural moisture)
• One-piece profiled beam from the array
• Profiled glued timber

Log cabins from calibrated logs

For the construction of a log house from a calibrated log, only high-quality wood is selected: not sapped (without cuts to drain the resin) and not affected by fungus and bugs. logs manual felling must retain the upper and densest layers, which will reliably protect the log house for many years. When assembling a log house, calibrated logs with an "irregular" geometric shape and with different diameters at the beginning (butt) and end (whip) of the log are stacked according to a special technology - "jack".

As a result, cutting openings and making pigtails will require mandatory horizontal alignment of the openings relative to the floor level (a horizontal cut is made from below and above the light opening).

Log cabins from a bar of natural moisture

For the construction of a log house, a bar of natural moisture is used (section 150x200 mm, 150x150 mm and 100x150 mm). The timber is laid on lnovatin or jute (mezhventsovye roll insulation) and fixed with birch dowels with a diameter of 30 mm every 1-1.2 meters in a checkerboard pattern. Further construction involves interior and exterior finishing.

Log cabins from logs of natural humidity

It is possible to cut down a log house using a rounded log, machined with a moon-shaped groove with a diameter of 180 - 320 millimeters. Baths and wooden houses for temporary residence are cut from logs with a diameter of 200 - 220 millimeters, and wooden houses for permanent residence from logs - from 240 millimeters. During installation, the logs are laid directly on the mezhventsovy roll insulation (jute or lnovatin) and fixed with birch pins with a diameter of 30 millimeters in a checkerboard pattern every 1-1.2 meters. Cantilever beams and pediments are pulled together with clamps and metal studs. In order to relieve internal stress in the log during installation, 20 mm grooves are made.

Log cabins from solid planed profiled timber (solid)

The construction of the log house is made from artificially dried to a residual 20% humidity, profiled timber. Its width is up to 220 millimeters and its height is up to 150 millimeters. Mounting technologies and structural elements are similar to a log house made of logs. Traditionally, after shrinkage of a log house from a profiled beam, caulking is not produced with a heater. Walls made of profiled planed timber have beautiful view natural wood and do not require interior and exterior decoration. The beam is connected using wooden dowels, which provide free shrinkage of the beam with an absolutely tight fit. The location of the profiled beam allows you to provide high level log house thermal insulation and exclude water infiltration into interventional seals. The profile of the beam is made so that rainwater could not get into the space between the logs.

Log cabins from profiled glued beams

Glued laminated timber is wood that has undergone a special treatment that has allowed it to acquire new functionality. The advantages of wood glued laminated timber retained in full. In addition, it was perfectly protected from destruction by processing special impregnations. The composition of the glued beam includes several layers of wood, the so-called lamellas, glued moisture resistant glue D4 under pressure. During the manufacture of glued beams, materials with antiseptic properties are used. In order to ensure the least shrinkage of the log house, the wood is subjected to forced drying in the chamber. This achieves a moisture content of 8-12%.

Settlement, shrinkage and movement of log cabins

Since during the construction of wooden houses there is no significant pressure on the foundation, then "draft" the felling is also not threatened. This property is considered the main advantage in the construction of a wooden house.

But anyway "progress" and "shrinkage" occur during the construction of any type of wooden house and depend on the materials used for the log house. The pre-dried timber reacts least of all to these processes.

In log cabins made of profiled glued beams, almost immediately after assembly, it is possible to carry out internal and exterior finish and window installation. Shrinkage and movement are only 1-1.2%. Of course, this indicator has practically no effect on the geometry of the material.

Log cabins, which are assembled from pre-dried, solid profiled timber, have movement and shrinkage values ​​​​of 2 - 2.5%.

Houses cut from fresh logs are subject to the greatest shrinkage and shrinkage - up to almost 10%. It is believed that the process stops after the log house has settled under the roof for 8-10 months. In the future, the progress of the log house will be 4-5%.

The most popular option for building a log house from wood of natural moisture (rounded log or timber) is subject to shrinkage and movement from 3 to 4%. In accordance with the above data, the table shows the indicators of movement and shrinkage different types log cabins:


Log house casing modifications

Varieties of pigtails (casing box):


• An okosyachka in a mortgage block (a prefabricated casing box, a groove bookmark in a log house). The casing box is made from not polished not planed lumber of natural humidity;
• An okosyachka into a deck, into a spike-monolith (monolithic casing). The casing box is made of not polished edged and not planed lumber of natural humidity;
• Casing box in a classic deck (monolithic pigtail). It is made from polished, planed lumber, pre-dried in a chamber. Humidity 8-10;
• Casing in a spike with a ready-made slope (“finishing” prefabricated pigtail, a groove in the log house). Produced from polished, planed lumber pre-dried in the chamber. Humidity 8-10%;

"Into a mortgage bar" (groove in a log house, prefabricated casing)

An okosyachka "into a mortgage bar" is a common and popular option. It is used for almost all types of log cabins, except for a wooden house made of calibrated logs, the diameter of which is more than 35 centimeters. For pigtails, edged, not polished and not planed lumber of natural moisture is used. In this case, after the installation of windows, further finishing of the slopes will be required.

During the preparation of the opening in the vertical ends, a groove is made in the center, and then a bar of 50 x 50 millimeters is inserted into it with the help of a sealing material. After that, a pre-assembled, U-shaped pigtail, is fixed in the opening with 6 x 100 mm self-tapping screws every 200 mm vertically. In the same way, the pigtail is fixed in lower crown, which serves as the basis for mounting the window.



Monolithic pigtail "into a thorn-monolith" (groove in a log house)

An okosyachka is made from edged, not polished and not planed lumber of natural moisture. In this case, further finishing of the slopes is required after the windows are installed in a wooden house. During pre-training opening and making pigtails “into a spike-monolith” in the vertical ends in the center, a groove is made with a section of 55x55 millimeters. Then, from a bar 100 x 150 x 200 millimeters (depending on the thickness of the log house), a “monolithic casing box” with a T-shaped profile section is produced. Further, the racks of the "monolithic" pigtail are inserted into the groove of the log house through the sealing material. Bottom part the racks are fixed in the carrier "crown" with metal studs (self-tapping screw - capercaillie). After that, a board 50x150-200 millimeters per quarter is installed “in the thrust”, and fixed with self-tapping screws to the pigtail racks.



Monolithic casing "in the deck" (comb in the frame)

The pigtail is made using two types of lumber, such as:

• not polished, not planed solid of natural moisture from conifers, made without an outer quarter. After installing a plastic window in a wooden house, you will need to finish the slopes;
• polished, planed, profiled solid wood, pre-drying in a chamber. Made with an outer quarter for installing a window. Finishing the slopes after installing the window is not necessary.
During the preparation of the opening and the manufacture of the pigtail "into the deck" in the frame, a comb (thorn) is made in the vertical ends in the center. "Decks" are inserted through the sealing material of the rack directly into the spike of the log house. In the upper part, “in the thrust”, a “top” is installed in a quarter and fixed with self-tapping screws to the racks of the pigtail. The casing box can be with a window sill or with a threshold when closed circuit along the perimeter.

A) modification to the deck, the array is not polished, not planed.



b) modification into a classic deck, an array of polished, planed.



Casing box "in a spike" with a ready slope (groove in a log house, prefabricated "finishing")

During the manufacture of the pigtail “into a spike” with a ready-made slope and the preparation of the opening, a groove is made in the ends of the log house, located vertically in the center. After that, a “finishing” casing box is assembled in the opening from glued “carriages” (stand + top). It is a slope that does not require further finishing, except for fastening the platbands.