The technology of installing plastic windows in a wooden house. How to install a plastic window in a wooden house yourself

The basement is one of the most important parts of the building. This is a kind of support, which is subjected to constant negative environmental influences. Finishing the basement of a private house not only gives it an aesthetic appearance, but also protects it from adverse factors. Therefore, finishing materials must be moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, reliable and durable.

Much of the building's foundation is below ground level and hidden from view. The protruding part above ground level is called the plinth. According to the norms, the height of the basement from the ground must be at least 20 cm. It is usually made of brick, stone or concrete slabs.

The construction of a stone plinth is the most practical solution, since the structure does not need additional finishing. However, it is worth considering that this is the most costly way. Brick plinth masonry is more affordable. This material is environmentally friendly, has low and good strength characteristics.

Facing the basement of the house is not only aesthetic. This is a reliable protection of the building from external influences. Finishing materials that will be used for sheathing the basement must have a high level of strength. Together with the plinth, its cladding will take the load created by the wall structures of the building and evenly distribute it over the foundation of the building. It must withstand pressure and protect the base from external factors such as precipitation, sunlight, humidity, temperature fluctuations.

Finishing material protects the foundation of the building from damage by mold, fungus and various types of insects. The lining of the basement is carried out in order to insulate the building. It is also necessary to protect the foundation from severe frosts, under the influence of which its strength decreases and the erosion process develops.

Leaving the surface of the plinth without sheathing will contribute to its slow destruction as a result of constant exposure to dry or liquid dirt containing aggressive chemicals and minerals.

Various options for finishing the basement of a private house, the photos clearly confirm this, turn the building into a masterpiece of design art, making it look complete and unique.

Varieties of basement structures

There are main variations of structures that are used for projects of houses with a plinth:

• protruding beyond the surface of the walls;
• flush with the building;
• sinking, relative to the wall.

Most often, when building a private house, a photo of the basement of the house clearly confirms this, using the first two options. A protruding plinth is recommended when a house is built with thin exterior walls, a warm underground is used, or a basement is provided in the building. In these cases, this type of plinth will provide the building with additional thermal insulation.

If the basement is made flush with the building, when thin walls are used for its construction, dampness and condensation in the interior are inevitable. Here it is most problematic to mount thermal insulation and perform finishing.

Important! When choosing these types of plinth, you should take care of the arrangement of low tides in advance.

The sinking base is less damaged by the influence of precipitation. Here you can easily hide the waterproofing, equip the insulation and complete the cladding with the necessary materials, which contributes to a longer service life. This type of plinth is recommended for buildings without a basement. Finishing materials for the plinth will perceive the pressure of the soil, performing a supporting function, thereby maintaining the safety of the entire structure.

The procedure for finishing the basement of the house

All work on the lining of the basement structure is carried out at the final stage of production - the exterior of the building. Work is best done in warm, dry weather. The basement sheathing consists of the following steps, which are performed in a certain sequence:

1. A trench is dug 20 cm deep, 50 cm wide around the entire perimeter of the building.
2. Filling the space with gravel to provide drainage. Additionally, the trench can be strengthened using a reinforcing mesh.
3. The surface of the wall, 50-70 cm high for the future plinth, is cleaned of dirt and processed. If necessary, all irregularities are eliminated.
4. Arrangement of thermal insulation.
5. Decorative lining of the plinth.

The choice of facing material and the way it is laid depends on the design of the plinth and the method of its outflow.

Arrangement of low tides for the basement of the foundation

To protect the basement from the negative effects of precipitation, an ebb should be installed, which is fixed above the protruding part of the basement, and is a kind of delimiter between the base of the building and the wall structure. One part is in contact with the wall at a certain angle, and the other hangs over the foundation, blocking it, collecting rain and melt water.

Ebb for the plinth are slats with a size of 50-400 mm. The color, size and shape of the tides should be selected depending on the finishing material of the foundation. A water-repellent structure can be made independently using waterproof materials, or you can buy ready-made ebbs for the foundation base at any hardware store.

Today, the industry produces several varieties of ebbs:

• plastic;
• metal;
• concrete;
• clinker.

The type of tide is selected based on the finishing material for the facade of the building. The most successful plastic ebbs are combined with vinyl siding, which is used for building cladding. Due to the wide range of colors, you can choose the most suitable option. The use of concrete or clinker flashings for the plinth is preferable for buildings that are lined with natural stone or brick. Metal visors can be used with any kind of finishing material.

Varieties of ebbs

The most budget option is to use plastic ebbs made of polyvinyl chloride. The cost of the product is 50 rubles. for 1 running meter Despite the high rate of water resistance, ebbs are highly sensitive to physical impact, especially in winter, when they can crack and split from the slightest blow.

Useful advice! Due to the fact that plastic ebbs have increased fragility, preference should be given to more durable and expensive products.

The most durable and durable are ebbs made of metal: steel, copper or aluminum. Installation of products is convenient and simple, and is determined by fastening metal strips to the walls of the building using self-tapping screws and dowels. When choosing this material from a wide range of types, special attention should be paid to the aesthetic appearance of the product so that it creates the completeness of the overall design of the building. The price of the product starts from 100 rubles/p.m.

Useful advice! When mounting the base sills, the strips should be overlapped one after another by at least 30 mm. To avoid damage to the protective layer of the product, which will lead to the formation of corrosion and destruction of the material, do not cut the planks.

Metal castings are made from high-quality and frost-resistant cement of the M450 brand with the addition of river sand, crushed granite and plasticizers. The solution is poured into silicone molds of various geometric parameters. The result is a flat and smooth product. These ebbs are attached to a special solution.

Ebb for the basement of the foundation, the price of which is the highest and starts from 200 rubles. for 1 running meter, these are products made of clinker tiles. This material has high strength characteristics, reliably protects the building from the negative effects of the environment and successfully emphasizes the design of the cladding.

Drain mounting technology

After choosing the ebb, you can proceed to its installation. Here, one should take into account not only the material from which the ebbs are made, but also the design features of the building. So, for a wooden house, elements that will be fastened with self-tapping screws or other fasteners are suitable. Since wood has low adhesion and is afraid of dampness, the use of adhesives is impractical.

For buildings made of brick or facing stone, ebbs can be used, which will be attached using polymer or cement-adhesive mortars.

Useful advice! When using concrete or ceramic sills, their installation should be carried out simultaneously with the plinth and wall cladding.

If it is necessary to install ebbs on a building already finished with facing material, then it is better to use metal or vinyl elements.

Before installing the ebbs, it is necessary to seal the joints of the walls with the plinth. All cracks and crevices should be treated with a water-repellent mixture, or sealed with a sealant. Next, you need to use the level to mark the wall. The highest point of the base is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along which the upper part of the tide will be mounted. The part of the foundation that protrudes must be compared with a horizontal plane using a cement screed. The lower part of the tide will rest on it.

Important! The ebb plane relative to the wall should be located with a slope of 10-15%.

Installation of metal and plastic sills

The installation of sills should be started from the corner, using special corner elements that can be purchased together with planks of the same width and color. Next, you need to finish all the protruding parts of the building structure: columns, pilasters and others.

Related article:

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In the upper part of the tide, holes are drilled with a drill at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Further, the element is applied to the previously outlined line on the wall of the house and is attached to it with dowels with self-tapping screws. The lower part of the tide is attached to the concrete base of the plinth with a dowel-nails in increments of 40-50 cm. The junction of the tide with the wall should be sealed with a putty or silicone compound.

Important! During the installation of the ebb, it should be borne in mind that it should protrude 2-3 cm beyond the edge of the base, which will provide better protection during precipitation.

After sheathing all corners and protruding elements, it is necessary to proceed with the installation of ebbs on straight sections. You need to start from one of the corners. Each next element should be overlapped on the previous one by at least 3 cm. All joints should be treated with a sealant to prevent moisture ingress.

Installation of concrete and clinker sills

Clinker and concrete sills should be mounted at the stage of facing the facade of the building, since their adjustment to size during installation is a laborious process.

These types of ebbs are better combined with facing materials such as brick, clinker tiles, natural or. For their fastening, a special adhesive composition for ceramics and stone, which is intended for outdoor use, should be used. It is purchased in the form of a dry mixture created on a cement or polymer basis, and with the help of water it is brought to the state of thick sour cream. The solution can be made independently, using cement and building sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4.

Installation of concrete and clinker sills also starts from the corner. In order to avoid difficult processing of concrete sills, they should be pre-positioned in such a way as to minimize their cutting. This can be achieved by using the right size of the seam between the elements. You can adjust the dimensions of clinker products by using a tile cutter or a grinder with a diamond cutting wheel.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the back of each element. The tide is fixed strictly along the previously outlined line. After waiting some time for the solution to set, putty or silicone sealant is applied to the joints between the casting elements. After the adhesive has completely set, the walls of the building can be clad.

Foundation plinth waterproofing

The basement of the building is constantly in difficult conditions. It perceives a significant load from the above-ground part of the building and is in contact with the external environment, being under the influence of moisture. To protect an important part of the house from destruction, it is necessary to provide for a number of measures, one of which is the arrangement of waterproofing of the foundation basement.

Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. Usually a complex of works is performed, which includes both methods. Horizontal waterproofing is performed before the walls are erected and is aimed at protecting them from moisture. However, in order to provide a complete protective package of measures, it is also necessary to perform waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth.

Vertical waterproof protection is aimed at preventing the negative impact of surface and ground water on brick or concrete. Such isolation can be external and internal. The best effect has a double-sided protection against moisture.

Today, pile foundations are predominantly used in the construction of buildings. Here the plinth plays not only a decorative role, but also protects the house from heat loss. Despite the fact that this element is not load-bearing and does not have a direct impact on the durability of the structure, waterproofing the basement is mandatory.

Materials for waterproofing the plinth from the outside

Coating, roll and injection compounds with a penetrating effect are widely used as materials that are used for waterproofing the basement of the foundation.

To protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater, rolled waterproofing is often used, which can be welded or pasted over. Fused insulation consists of a base in the form of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass and applied mastic. Adhesive waterproofing is laid on the surface of the foundation using bituminous mastic, which is first applied to the rolled material and to the monolith, then the element is glued, pressed and smoothed.

The main advantage of the roll material for the base plate is its low cost and high installation speed. However, this type of waterproofing is poorly resistant to mechanical stress and has a short service life. It cannot be used in places of passage or junction of communications. Before installation, clean the surface from dust and dirt, and dry thoroughly.

Bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer mastics, binder plasters and cement coatings are used as coating waterproofing materials, which are applied to the foundation surface with a brush or roller. This type of insulation is used for water pressure up to 2.6 kgf/cm².

Useful advice! To ensure increased strength of waterproofing after the first layer of mastic, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with fiberglass, and apply subsequent layers on top of it.

The material has a low cost and can be applied to the surface of any configuration. However, it is not durable, it requires preparatory work and the creation of additional protection against mechanical stress.

The use of injection and penetrating compounds is the latest technology for waterproofing a structure. The penetrating material is applied to the damp surface of the concrete base. Reacting with water, the composition turns into crystals that penetrate into the pores of the concrete, making it waterproof. The penetration depth reaches 150-250 mm.

Injection waterproofing is carried out using a liquid solution, which is injected under pressure into the cracks, pores and seams of the structure. This method can be used for waterproofing a building made of rubble and brick. The use of this waterproofing is a very time-consuming process that requires cleaning the structure to concrete or brick, and the complexity of the execution of the work itself requires the involvement of an experienced craftsman. In addition, such isolation is the most expensive.

Features of waterproofing a brick basement

Ceramic brick is most often used for the construction of a basement. The device of its waterproofing can be carried out by various methods.

For the construction of walls, solid red brick can be used. This building material has already been factory processed, where a layer of waterproofing was previously applied to it. Therefore, using this brick for the construction of a building, external waterproofing can not be equipped. Despite the fact that the cost of this material is relatively high, these costs are offset by the fact that after laying the brick, no other work is required.

The next way to waterproof a brick basement is to use bituminous grease, which is applied in several layers in cold or hot form.

Rarely, polyurethane foam spraying is used to insulate the basement. This is due to the fact that in order to perform such a thermal protection option, it is necessary to use special equipment, certain chemical components and attract highly qualified workers. The essence of the method is that the foamed polyurethane foam is sprayed onto any surface. Expanding, it penetrates into all voids and securely adheres to the base, forming a dense coating. This material can be used not only for spraying, but also for filling individual voids and areas.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating the basement of the foundation from the outside with foam plastic

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to prepare the foundation surface by cleaning it of old insulation, dirt and dust. Next, you should equip a layer of waterproofing to protect the structure from rain, ground and snow water. Any type of waterproofing is suitable for penoplex, with the exception of compounds with organic components.

Work begins with the insulation of the underground part of the foundation. For this purpose, PPS boards are attached using a specialized contact adhesive, which is applied around the perimeter of the product and in the center. The second level should be laid with a gap between the joints between the plates in relation to the lower level. After installation, all slots are filled with mounting foam.

The basement insulation layer with foam plastic requires additional protection against mechanical damage. To do this, an alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh is fixed on the plates, which is subsequently plastered with a solution with hydrophobic additives. Also, as protection, you can use wooden tongs, which are attached to the plates with dowel-nails. Wood must first be subjected to antiseptic, antifoam and hydrophobic treatment.

The final stage is the finishing of the plinth with facing materials.

Facing the basement of the house: what material is better to choose

Do-it-yourself plinth finishing is carried out with various materials that reliably protect and decorate its surface. This process must be carried out before wall cladding in order to be able to hide the ebbs under the wall finishing material.

The plinth cladding material must have the following performance characteristics:

• have low thermal conductivity to avoid heat loss from the building;
• provide reliable and strong adhesion to the base;
• have a high indicator of strength and wear resistance to mechanical damage;
• have low hygroscopicity and vapor permeability to prevent moisture penetration into the foundation and wall panels.

Today, when the question is raised, how to finish the basement of a house, the following materials are used that fully meet the above requirements:

• clinker or porcelain tiles;
• natural or artificial stone;
• brick;
• PVC panels or basement siding;
• profiled sheet;
• decorative or mosaic plaster.

For lining the base of the strip foundation, you can use any finishing material. But when the question arises, how to close the basement of a house on screw piles, you should give preference to brickwork, siding or profiled sheet.

Before deciding how to finish the basement of the house from the outside, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

• lining the base with thick material, it is necessary to install a low tide above its protruding part;
• wanting to expand the foundation, it is better to use brickwork;
• when mounting or corrugated board, you must first install a frame, the space of which can be filled with a heat insulator for additional insulation of the foundation;
• frame-facing technology allows you to carry out work at any time of the year.

Using plaster for plinth cladding

When the question is: how to inexpensively finish the basement of a house, the answer is obvious - use plaster. However, this option is the least durable, and also has an unaesthetic appearance. Such a lining is easily damaged by any mechanical influences and does not provide adequate protection of the base from external factors. However, this method is widely used due to its low cost. It is also acceptable in the case of building a brick base on a strip foundation.

Plastering itself is not the final stage. To protect the layer from moisture and environmental influences, acrylic, alkyd, silicone paint, water-based or oil composition should be applied to it, which in turn decorates the base. The photo of finishing the house clearly demonstrates the various options for using plaster.

Useful advice! Enamel paints are not recommended for painting the plinth. They do not pass air and are environmentally unsafe.

Often, decorative plaster is used, which creates the effect of a fur coat and can be colored when using a dye. The use of mosaic plaster allows you to create a multi-colored mosaic on the surface, which is due to the presence of small crumbs in the initial mixture. The presence of resin, as a binder, gives the composition increased water resistance.

To solve the question of how to make a plinth around the house with your own hands with the effect of natural stone, the use of a special silicone stamp will help, with which prints are made on the plastered surface.

In private houses, the basement finish with a profiled sheet is widely used. The material has a high moisture resistance, is resistant to temperature fluctuations, is durable, easy to process and can be easily mounted on a wooden crate. However, corrugated board is not suitable as a finishing material for wooden buildings due to the fact that it is susceptible to corrosion under the influence of high humidity, which can lead to rotting of wood.

Profiled sheets are often used to finish the plinth of a pile-screw foundation, where it must be closed for reliable weather protection.

Features of using brick for finishing the basement

One of the expensive finishing materials is brick. However, having high strength and performance characteristics, it allows you to create a strong, reliable and durable protection. This material is suitable for any type of foundation. For brickwork, slotted, hollow, hyperpressed or ceramic bricks should be used. Work begins with the arrangement of the base for masonry.

If the brick is used to build the basement itself, it does not need additional finishing. However, here you should choose high-quality material in order to solve two problems at once: utilitarian, protecting the walls of the house from external influences, and aesthetic, giving the building a decorative look. In deciding which brick is better for the foundation basement, it is necessary to give preference to red burnt brick, which is resistant to aggressive environments.

In the case of finishing the plinth of the pile-and-screw foundation with brickwork, it is necessary to install the base in the form of a strip of reinforced concrete or a metal profile. Bricklaying occurs with dressing. To connect the elements, a cement-sand mortar is used. The thickness of the seams is 10-12 mm.

Facing the basement of a private house is important, so you should carefully consider the choice of material for work. It acts not only as a decorating element, but also is a reliable protection of the entire building from the effects of atmospheric and mechanical factors.

The appearance of housing is often judged by its owner, despite the fact that they can be the exact opposite of each other. Therefore, each owner is very kind to his monastery, and those who do not even think about it make a big mistake. The choice of color, the correct stylistic design, the arrangement of the facade, roofing, finishing the basement of a private house, along with an excellent interior of the premises, allows you to achieve the desired result.

Particular attention should be paid to the foot of the building, lying on the foundation. It is the transitional part from the base to the wall that is constantly exposed to the negative effects of precipitation, so the cladding for this area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure is simply necessary. It provides reliable heat and waterproofing of the foundation, protection against mechanical damage, and also has a decorative function.

Peculiarities

The protruding part of the foundation, in contact with the facade of the building, is constantly exposed to various kinds of influences:

• Chemical. Atmospheric precipitation, dirt, reagents get on the surface;
• Biological. Partially, the foundation is in the ground, interacts with organisms living in the soil;
• Physical. Daily, seasonal changes in temperature, air humidity;
• Mechanical. Blowing by the winds that carry different grains of sand.

In view of these circumstances, the increased load experienced by this part of the building must be protected. The choice of materials for cladding, as well as the work itself, should be approached thoroughly, taking into account the following requirements that raw materials for finishing must meet:

• Moisture resistance. The material must reliably protect the wall from rain, snow, condensation, so that moisture cannot get on the surface of the basement, does not penetrate through the finish. Otherwise, this can lead to the destruction of not only the foot of the building, but also its facade. In a humid environment, fungus and mold often appear, which cause an unpleasant odor.
• Resistance to mechanical damage. Stone or tile must have a high level of strength, together with the transitional part, they hold the entire load created by the walls of the structure, evenly distribute it over the base.
• Thermal conductivity. Allows you to keep warm in the house, serves as an additional insulation.
• Immunity to temperature changes. Due to the properties of the material to shrink and expand as a result of temperature fluctuations, cracks may appear on the surface of the cladding, which will lead to a decrease in moisture resistance, frost resistance, and further to the destruction of raw materials.

The need for finishing

Since the basement of a private house is located above the ground, according to the norms, its height should be at least 20 cm. It is constantly in sight, subject to various kinds of influences, therefore its lining plays an important role, it allows you to solve a number of problems, namely:

• If you leave the surface of the protruding foundation without sheathing, then under the influence of dirt, precipitation, aggressive chemical and organic substances, it will slowly collapse.
• The right choice of materials that match the general style of the building will allow you to transform the building, give it the best look, turn it into a masterpiece of design art.
• Finishing protects the foundation of the structure from damage by mold, fungus, and prevents the access of insects and rodents.
• Tiles, stone, plaster retain heat well, allow the building to be insulated, and also protect the supporting structure from frost, preventing erosion.

What preparatory work should be done before finishing

It is very important to carefully and efficiently prepare the base before sheathing. This will strengthen the structure, increase the waterproofing and thermal insulation of the entire building. But it should be noted that this type of work must be carried out in the warm season, observing the following procedure:

• A trench is dug around the entire perimeter of the structure. Its depth is 30-50 cm, width - 50 cm.
• The surface of the foundation and plinth is cleaned of earth, mold, moss, and other contaminants. Loose items are removed.
• The entire wall, as well as the base to the upper edge of the sheathing, is leveled, treated with antiseptics, a primer, covered with a layer of waterproofing, on top of which a heater made of polyurethane, foam, EPS boards is installed. Elements are attached using special dowels with umbrellas.
• The bottom of the recess is leveled and rammed, covered with a layer of gravel or fine crushed stone for 10-15 cm, as well as sand - 10 cm. Each layer is alternately spilled with water and compacted with a manual rammer.
• Next is the insulation. For this, you can use EPS boards (extruded polystyrene foam).
• A vapor barrier is placed on top of the thermal insulation layer.
• Alternately, along one wall, a formwork is constructed, with the help of which a concrete blind area is formed.
• It remains only to finish with the base. To do this, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on top of the insulation, the plane is covered with a layer of plaster, another type of cladding.

Varieties of basement structures

Many people, like novice builders, do not always understand what the basement of a structure means. In fact, this is the foot of the building. For strip foundations - a protruding part of the base itself, located above the ground, or a section of the wall that forms the basement. For columnar or piled structures - a wall between the pillars, reaching the grillage.

There are three main options for the design of the basement, which are used in the design of houses:

1. sinking. Deepened by 5-8 cm in relation to the outer wall. Such a device is recommended for houses that do not provide for a basement. In terms of protecting the base from precipitation, it is the most reliable. Waterproofing and a layer of insulation are well hidden here.
2. Speaker. A good option is when the building has thin outer walls, a basement is equipped under the house. Such a structure requires additional consumption of building materials, but it looks more solid.
3. Level. The easiest to perform, but needs additional waterproofing protection, arrangement of low tides. With this model of construction, it is difficult to install thermal insulation and carry out finishing work.

Arrangement, varieties and technology of installation of ebbs for the basement and foundation

The junction of the basement with the bearing wall is most susceptible to moisture penetration through the gap between the structural elements. As a result, materials may become damp. Even with waterproofing, there is no complete certainty that the flowing water will not fall under it. To solve this problem, ebbs located above the cladding are used.

The cheapest option are plastic models. They are characterized by a high level of water resistance, but they do not tolerate low temperatures, and it is also a very fragile material that can crack and split under mechanical stress.

Some of the most durable are ebbs made of copper, aluminum, and steel. Their cost is in the middle price category. At the same time, the products are immune to moisture, tolerate temperature changes well. Mounting the building material is simple, performed using self-tapping screws.

For protruding foundations with brick or stone cladding, concrete ledges are a good solution. To increase their strength, plasticity, frost resistance, special plasticizers are added to the mixture during manufacture.

One of the most expensive products is the construction of clinker tiles. Clinker is resistant to various external factors, mechanical damage. Some models are covered with a layer of glaze.

When choosing a low tide, you should not save money, buy cheap plastic options. It is better to give preference to more expensive, for example, stainless steel products, the durability of which exceeds the life of a residential building.

Having chosen a suitable visor, you can proceed with its installation. The installation of each particular model will depend on the material from which it is made, as well as on the design of the building. For example, for wooden walls it is better to use plastic or metal options that are fastened with self-tapping screws. For brick, concrete structures lined with tiles, stone, it is better to install concrete or clinker structures that are laid on the mortar. At the same time, their installation is carried out during wall cladding, but if the finish is already ready, it is better to use metal products. Before starting installation, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures. Perform sealing of the joint of the basement with the bearing wall, using the level to make markings.

Installation of metal and plastic sills

Ebbs are chosen depending on the color, texture of the future facade and personal preferences of the owner. Elements must be in harmony with all finishing materials. Otherwise, they will stand out unfavorably, and the slightest flaw and distortion will be evident. Metal and plastic products have good performance characteristics.

Metal castings are made according to the size of the customer. You can leave them natural or paint them. Installation starts from the corner. For correct calculations, special corners are used that come with the planks. All products match in color and size. At the next stage, the protruding parts of the building are finished.

According to preliminary calculations, ebbs are marked. At the necessary points, at a distance of 50 cm, holes are drilled, applied to the wall and fixed with dowels and self-tapping screws. The lower part is attached to the foundation with an identical pitch. At the junction of the ebb and the wall, it is necessary to walk with silicone sealant or putty. Sheathing of straight sections is done last. Elements overlap.

Installation of concrete and clinker sills

Such ebbs are mounted before or with the cladding of the facade, since fitting them in size after complete installation will be difficult. It is better to use concrete, clinker structures in combination with a plinth made of natural stone, porcelain stoneware, brick.

The tides are attached to a special adhesive composition for outdoor use. Installation starts from the corner. To minimize the processing of dense material, it should be correctly positioned immediately. It is necessary to calculate in advance the length of the ebb, taking into account the dimensions of the parts, the width of the seam, the number of defective, corner elements. If necessary, pruning is done with a tile cutter or grinder.

The back side of each tile is treated with glue. The clinker has special grooves in the form of a dovetail for high-quality filling of the mixture. All elements must be fixed strictly according to the intended line. After complete drying, the joints are treated with putty and proceed to facing the building.

Waterproofing

The life of the house depends on the quality of the waterproofing of the basement. The foot is influenced by multiple negative factors - snow melting, groundwater. So that the building does not begin to collapse prematurely, it should be reliably protected. The outer side of the basement requires the greatest attention. The structure should be protected in two planes at once:

• vertically. Apply water-repellent mixtures and materials;
• Horizontally. Roll layers are laid between the outer part of the base and the foundation.

Depending on the type of soil, depth of groundwater, climate and other factors, choose the appropriate option for vertical waterproofing. It can be a special protective varnish, bituminous mastic, liquid polymers, synthetic resins. Also, the outer facade can be pasted over with roofing material. When choosing a method of waterproofing, one should take into account the type of material from which the base is built, the features of the finish. There are several options for protective cladding:

• Penetrating. After application, the cement-quartz mixture slowly moves along the microcracks deep into the concrete, tightly plugging them. The material becomes chemically inert, its strength increases by 30%;
• Roll. Apply to any plinth structures. For reliability, it uses 2-3 polymer, bitumen, synthetic layers. The rolls are glued with an overlap, providing very high protection against moisture. Joints are lubricated with water-repellent mixtures;
• Coating. Apply several layers of liquid mastic on the prepared surface. Bituminous, cement-polymer mixtures do not differ in durability, they require protection from external physical influences. After 5 years, they require replacement;
• Screen. The plinth is trimmed with special clay panels with an overlap, nails are attached to the dowel;
• Brick protection. Waterproofing should be considered at the material procurement stage. The brick must be treated with protective impregnations. Coating impregnation is applied to the cleaned surface of such a base, covered with rolled insulation.

Warming

The basement must be protected not only from moisture, but also from the effects of the external environment. The greatest damage to waterproofing materials can cause cold, low temperature. You can achieve the best result if you choose a high quality insulation. It must be elastic, like penoplex, durable, freely tolerate physical, chemical influences. Warming of the building is best done with a light material that will not exert an extra load.

When choosing a product, the technology of its application should be taken into account. It is better to refuse options with the need to violate the integrity of the structure. It is necessary to insulate the lower part of a private house from the outside during its construction, before the onset of cold weather. The following materials retain heat well:

• Extruded polystyrene foam. Plates with a thickness of 3-10 cm have a high density, tolerate moderate mechanical and chemical influences. Service life 25 years. Cons - prone to rodents, fragile on bends, requires treatment with anti-propyrenes;
• Expanded polyurethane foam. Lightweight material is durable and highly inert, does not burn or mold. Among the shortcomings, a negative reaction to ultraviolet light can be noted. For distribution of polyurethane on a surface the special equipment is necessary;
• Mineral wool. The fibrous structure provides good sound insulation, does not burn. Available in mats, rolls. It is installed using a crate made of timber, which should be pre-treated with mixtures against decay;
• Thermal panels. Create an optimal indoor climate. The chance of cold air getting in is minimized. The material has a groove fastening system.

Cladding - choice of material

The main purpose of the plinth lining is to protect the surface from external influences, erosion processes, and biological organisms. Also, do not forget about the overall design of the building. The selected finishing material should be in harmony with the covering of the walls of the house, other buildings on the site. Choosing a decorative trim should take into account the design features and financial capabilities.

Plaster

Finishing the facade with decorative plaster is one of the most difficult ways. The material provides good protection to the waterproofing layer and insulation. At the same time, it looks beautiful and original. A variety of colors and textures allows you to create any design.

The main plastering of the basement is carried out with cement mortar, decor is applied on top. The composition for external use consists of a binder base, plasticizers, additives with various properties and a filler. They can be diluted with solvents or plain water. The composition of the plaster for the foundation is divided into the following types:

• Mineral. Filler - stone chips, base - lime-cement. Durable, vapor-permeable material of the middle price category;
• Acrylic. Fillers create an imitation of textured surfaces - leather, wood, marble, base - acrylic resin. Combustible material must be coated with flame retardants;
• silicate. The base is potash liquid glass. Dries quickly, has excellent antistatic properties;
• Silicone. The base is silicone resin. Possesses the best operational properties - waterproof, strong, durable, wide choice of flowers. Has a high price.

A natural stone

The most practical and durable option for plinth lining. Upgrading with natural material will give the building a beautiful, respectable look. Many owners of country houses choose this complex finishing method, although it is not cheap. We must not forget about the large weight of the stone. It is better to choose material from dense rocks of igneous origin, corresponding in color and texture to the design concept.

The most durable options for finishing the base are granite, gabbro. It is easier to work with sandstone and shale. Marble is not recommended, because after a couple of years it will lose its appearance. Loose, sedimentary and light rocks also cannot be used. On shell rock and limestone, dirty spots and smudges from the rain will be immediately noticeable.

The thickness of flagstone can be varied. This indicator affects the method of fixing the stone. Elements with an area of ​​up to 0.5 meters and a thickness of up to 1 cm can be installed on glue or cement mortar. For large layers, additional fasteners should be used.

Finishing with natural stone must be carried out with a small gap, since natural material tends to change volume in various situations (change of weather, rainfall, lowering, increasing temperature). The value of the unfilled lumen is determined individually for each breed.

Fake diamond

The construction market offers a huge selection of artificial materials for finishing the basement. You can work with them without any preparation. Products are created in a special way, facilitating installation, have standardized dimensions. You can cut and adjust the artificial stone with your own hands using a grinder.

The foundation, lined with artificial elements, is reliably protected from external factors, has excellent aesthetic qualities, and is able to decorate any facade. It is a great alternative to natural stone. Available building material differs in appearance and characteristics. It is divided into the following types:

• Polymer sand materials. The basis of the composition is headed by sand. It is supplemented by plasticizers, various types of polymers, modifiers. Details have a locking connection, can be mounted on a crate or glue;
• cement products. The composition includes sand, cement, plasticizers. The texture of products is achieved using special forms into which the mixture is poured;
• flexible stone. A crumb of sand and stone is applied to a fabric base impregnated with glue. Rarely used for finishing the foundation.

Clinker tiles

Natural tiles fully meet all the requirements for the finishing materials of the plinth, insulate the structure, and are easy to clean. Possesses the minimum water absorption, good chemical inertness. The product is not cheap, its price exceeds porcelain stoneware, siding for the foundation.

The facing material is made of refractory clay by the method of high-temperature single firing. Mineral dyes give decorativeness. To give a high density, it is subjected to pressing. Tiles are available in various shapes and sizes, the optimal thickness of the products is 3 centimeters. The surface may have a matte, glossy texture. You can ennoble the basement with models that imitate bricks.

Installation of clinker tiles cannot be called easy. To work, you only need a flat surface, special glue and professional skills. You can lay it down, creating a beautiful pattern, in several ways:

• In a run;
• Diagonally;
• One above the other (horizontal, vertical seams).

Clinker brick

The material is much stronger than a simple clay counterpart, since it is made by firing. Thanks to a special technology, the structure of ceramic products is homogeneous, there are no voids and pores. They are resistant to any mechanical stress. The production technology makes it possible to make clinker bricks of various colors by adjusting the firing process.

When ennobling the plinth, it is necessary to follow the exact installation instructions. The brick should lie down in dense rows. Work must begin from the bottom up, creating five layers each, followed by drying, solidification. Excess mortar is removed with a trowel and used for the following elements when applying other rows. After the laying is completed, the joints are overwritten, filled with a special mixture and embroidered.

You can insert windows in a wooden house with your own hands today without resorting to the services of professionals. Modern metal-plastic window systems allow you to give the facade a neat, well-groomed appearance. Installing windows with energy-saving properties significantly reduces the level of energy consumption in a private house. A plastic window in a wooden house creates the necessary microclimate and comfort.

Features of a wooden house with PVC windows

Plastic windows are distinguished by their energy-saving properties due to their design. In order for this quality to be fully realized, normal ventilation conditions must be created in a wooden house, otherwise unpleasant phenomena cannot be avoided.

In a wooden house with PVC windows, it is necessary to properly equip ventilation

If we talk about a newly built wooden house, then its main feature is natural shrinkage, which takes some time. This is the main condition that should be taken into account when installing windows in wooden houses in order to avoid situations when the window structure is deformed during shrinkage and will irrevocably fail.

Measurement

Carrying out measurements in a wooden house is different from measurements in houses made of other materials. This is due to the fact that wood is able to change its parameters depending on environmental influences. When moisture is absorbed, the wood expands.

The gap between the window frame and the opening should have a minimum size, but sufficient to take into account the possible expansion of the opening when the wood swells. Otherwise, window skew is inevitable.

The gap between the frame and the opening is left taking into account the possible swelling of the wood

If a plastic window is to be installed in an old wooden house and it is planned to leave the existing wooden frame, then at the stage of making this decision, the frame should be inspected for traces of decay and insect infestation. The frame must be strong, because it will be the base to which the window will be attached.

If the existing frame is unsuitable, then measurements are made taking into account the presence of this structural element of the window in the future. If there are slopes before measurements, they are removed, since the clean window opening can be much larger.

Criteria for choosing a window system

The window system consists of several components, each of which performs its function and is important in its own way.

How to choose the right glass

The surface of the glass occupies the bulk of the area of ​​the window structure, so a greater percentage of heat loss occurs through it.

Modern double-glazed windows are characterized by the number of internal air chambers filled with an inert gas, which has a low thermal conductivity. Hence the name - single-chamber or two-chamber.

Three-chamber double-glazed windows have higher thermal insulation characteristics

A double-glazed window consists of three glasses 0.4 cm thick, installed at a distance of 1.6 cm each. That is, an indicator of 1.6 cm is the width of the air chamber.

The ability of the glass surface to resist heat loss can be enhanced by applying protective transparent or tinted layers to windows. Tinting is golden, silver, bronze, bottle blue or glass green.

How to choose the right profile

When inserting windows in a wooden house with your own hands, it is important to take a responsible approach to choosing a profile. Shutters and a window frame are made of a metal-plastic profile. It, like a double-glazed window, has a certain number of chambers in its design, which directly affects its thickness. The air in the profile chambers has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. More chambers - higher energy efficiency of the design. For example, a five-chamber profile with triple glazing is also capable of performing a soundproof function.

Each window structure is equipped with a drip tray to remove accumulated moisture, as well as a special chamber at the bottom of the profile, which contains silica gel - these are small yellow granules. This substance accumulates in itself excess condensate, which can form on the glasses.

You can choose a profile laminated under a tree

To make a wooden wall with a pvc window look harmonious, the profile can be laminated. At the same time, the universal white color will also look good on the facade of a wooden house. You can laminate the profile under walnut, cherry, oak or mahogany - these are the most common options.. In the case of lamination under natural wood species, the window sill is also cashed in the same design, and the ebb is chosen in brown.

How to choose fittings and seals

Fittings - this is the element of the window system, which should not only have a beautiful appearance, but also be durable and reliable. The internal mechanisms of the tilt-and-turn system can withstand repeated loads. Therefore, they are made of high quality and durable material.

The lifespan of the windows largely depends on the quality of the fittings.

The sealing material for a plastic window must withstand temperature extremes and not collapse over time.

Checking products before installation

In order to avoid problems and unexpected unpleasant surprises during the installation, it is important to first check the readiness and completeness of the products that the manufacturer must deliver to the installation site. If the delivered product has obvious defects during visual inspection, then it must be returned.

If the customer takes out the finished windows from the manufacturer's territory on his own, then this check must be carried out at the place of manufacture of the products. As a rule, the company's managers themselves offer to do this, so that later the customer signs the act of work performed that he has no complaints about the quality of the products.

The measurement results are indicated in the measurement sheet.

It is necessary to check the dimensions indicated in the act, and for reliability, compare them with the dimensions in the measuring sheet. A copy of it is given to the customer along with the contract, which sometimes specifies maximum permissible deviations. In case of discrepancy, the act is not signed, and the product is given to the manufacturer for rework.

If everything is fine with the dimensions, then the next step is to check the plane of the product - it should be even, without bends and deformations. The window system is delivered assembled, so it is important to check the sash control mechanism. Then the integrity of the double-glazed window and the density of the sealing elements inside are checked.

Installation of windows in a wooden house on an existing frame

If the house is not new, then you first have to dismantle the old wooden windows, this must be done carefully, since some elements are quite suitable for use in the subsidiary farm. When all the preparatory work has been completed, you can proceed with the installation of the window. How to properly insert windows in a modern wooden house with your own hands will be discussed below.

For the installation of windows during construction, preparation of the opening is not required

First you need to remove debris from the window box and clean it. Next comes the installation of the window sill. Control over the horizontal position is carried out using a level.

So that the window sill does not “ride” during the fastening process, its end sides can be brought into the side racks, where it is necessary to make appropriate recesses. It is necessary to fix the window sill with self-tapping screws. The window must be inserted using the unpacking method, that is, it will be necessary to remove the sashes and double-glazed windows.

Wood screws secure the window frame to the box. It is important to control the vertical position of the window frame. It is placed in the center of the opening so that there are spaces on both sides for the assembly seam. Fix its immobility with bars or wedges.

Be sure to leave a gap between the frame and the opening, which is filled with mounting foam

When filling the mounting joints with foam, the spacers are not removed until it has completely solidified. And after the foam hardens, it is cut and covered with a solution or plastic lining to protect it from direct sunlight, under the influence of which the material is destroyed.

When the frame is fixed, all previously removed elements of the window system are installed in reverse order.

Installing a window in a log house

In order to avoid troubles that may occur as a result of shrinkage, openings in a log house must be carefully prepared. The installation of windows in a log house occurs with a pigtail or, in other words, a casing device.

The installation of windows in a log house begins with the installation of a casing or pigtail, which ensures the independence of the window system from the behavior of the walls of the house. Wooden windows can also be installed in this way.

To install windows in a log house, first mount the pigtail

There are two types of casing device when building a log house. More common is the method in which grooves are made in the end parts of the logs in the opening, into which bars of the same size are placed. Usually it is 50x50 mm. This method is used when it is necessary to insert a window from a tree.

For double-glazed windows, the second method is used: a comb is cut out at the ends of the logs, on which a carriage with a groove is put on, inside which, as if along guides, the log will shrink when dried.

A gun carriage is a vertically oriented structure made of a 150x100 mm timber, having an average length of 5 cm longer than the size of the window.

Installation of windows in frame houses

Do-it-yourself installation of windows in a frame house is carried out without installing casing, since the material of the frame of such a house is not subject to shrinkage.

Scheme for installing a window in a frame house

Windows are installed in a modern wooden house by attaching them to anchor plates, which must be purchased in advance if they were not included with the window. During installation, it is important not to forget to control the position of the window in the plane horizontally and vertically.

The plates are attached to the end parts of the frame in five places. One in the center on top and two on both sides with an indent from the edge of the frame of at least 20-25 cm. Then the window is installed in the opening, a gap is left for the foam from below, placing bars under the frame, and the frame is fixed to the pigtail. The side gaps are also foamed.

Do-it-yourself installation of windows in a wooden house should not cause difficulties, subject to the technology of installation work and taking into account the specifics of a log house.

If you have some initial skills, you can install a wooden window without any problems with your own hands. How to do it easily and efficiently, we will now tell you.

Increasingly, wooden windows are beginning to return to apartments and houses. Despite the advantages of PVC windows, their main disadvantage can be put forward - plastic ones do not breathe at all. Modern wooden windows are made in such a way that you can easily put the same double or triple glazing in them and they serve no less than plastic ones. It happens that the openings are a little skewed and if you call in specialists, then installing a wooden window will cost a pretty penny. Therefore, we do it ourselves.

First you need to decide which window you will install: with which profile, with which fittings. What kind of wood should it be made from? Decided, ordered and bought. Now installation.

Useful information:

Window opening preparation

First of all, you must dismantle the old window. No special skills are required here. To break is not to build. Clean the slopes from the plaster. You still have to make new slopes.

Once the opening is completely clear, you must measure it carefully. The main goal is to determine the configuration of the opening itself, and the dimensions of the new window are already set according to it. If you have come across or seen how openings are measured when installing plastic windows, then this is done in exactly the same way.

There is such a thing as shrinkage. Every house, even a new one, shrinks. And of course this can affect the symmetry of your window opening. Very rarely the opening is perfect. The window itself must certainly be slightly smaller than the opening, especially if it is not symmetrical. You must maintain the gaps, as is done in the figure above.

To make your calculations more accurate, it is better to use a laser tape measure. Or a building thread with which you can beat off the vertical and horizontal. If they are even, then your measurements will also be accurate.

Window fixing methods

Since now a modern window profile allows you to fasten it with anchors through the wall, then you should not invent any other methods - this one will be the simplest and no less reliable. Also, this method allows you to open the sash in any direction.

In wooden houses, this method of fixing the window is the only one. Moreover, this method is no worse than all the others and at the same time it is the simplest. The window can open in different planes, but this will increase the load on the frame itself. With skewed walls, the window sash can jam. Therefore, when measuring, it is required to calculate the size of the window a little less than the opening itself.

How to determine the width of the window frame

The frame must be chosen so thick that the dew point is exactly between the panes. The inner glass must not fog up. The width is at least twelve centimeters, and if you have thick enough walls, then the maximum width should not exceed 22 centimeters.

The profile of a wooden window is made according to the principle of the profile of plastic windows. It often happens that the hardware will be the same. By the way, to choose accessories, you should sweat a little. The durability of your window will depend on it. Therefore, you should definitely familiarize yourself with how to choose the right window fittings.

If, nevertheless, the frame turned out to be more than 22 centimeters wide, you should consider additional thermal insulation, which is installed in the openings during installation. If this is not acceptable for you, then the glass package itself should be triple, but this is an additional load on the sash. It often happens that from this the sash begins to sag. , however, this is additional trouble in the future.

Again, if the wall thickness is large enough, then there are certain proportions that must also be observed. Internal slopes should not be less than 17 centimeters, and external 10 centimeters. Often window openings are made with a quarter and the internal slope is not obtained according to the specified parameters. In this case, there is nothing terrible, because the quarter itself will be a kind of additional insulation.

How to install in a concrete opening

If you have brick or block walls, then the installation of a new wooden window often begins with the installation of a window sill. To do this, on the basis of the opening, a cement even cushion is poured in a horizontal plane and the surface is leveled. Usually the thickness of the window sill is from 30 to 50 centimeters, so the window itself, already in size, should be made smaller in height.

The window sill is nailed with several dowels, which are driven directly into the wall. remember that outside the window sill should not protrude beyond the edge of the window frame. Preparation for the installation of a wooden window is completed and you can begin this process.

The easiest way to install a window is on blocks. Blocks are ordinary boards of equal thickness, which should also have equal thickness with a gap between the wall and the window frame. One edge of the block is slightly ground off in the form of a wedge, so that it is possible, if necessary, to correct the window in the opening horizontally and vertically, if the opening itself is not sufficiently even.

At the beginning, support pads are installed - your new wooden window will mainly rely on them, then spacers are installed. Constantly control the vertical and horizontal with the help of a level and, if necessary, adjust with the help of blocks.

As soon as the window frame has fallen into place and you have completely leveled it, we take out the spacer pads in turn and spill these places with silicone, install the pads back. Wipe off excess silicone with a rag. Once the silicone has hardened, the gaps between the opening and the frame can be filled with mounting foam. Any excess of which, after complete drying, is cut off, make slopes outside the window.

More often it looks like this: the resulting gap between the wall and the frame is filled with mounting foam, after drying, the excess is cut off and plastered. Remember that foam must be handled with care. If you overdo it, it can be so open that your window will stop closing. The foam puts a lot of pressure on the frame and arches it. therefore, read the rules for working with mounting foam.

To enhance the effect, the frame is fixed with powerful dowels. Two holes are drilled at the top of the frame and on its sides and the dowels are driven into the wall. At this stage, the installation of the window into the concrete wall is completed. You just have to make new beautiful slopes from the inside.

Installation in a wall made of brick, cinder block

If your house is built from cinder block, ceramic brick, or shell rock - that is, from weak materials, then it is advisable to install a new window with a mount through and through. First of all, for this, two through holes are drilled through the frame in the wall, two on each side. You can make holes initially in the frame, then set it evenly in two planes and mark holes in the wall, which are drilled after marking, naturally without a frame. The anchors or screws should be 8 inches longer than the frame itself, plus the gap between your frame and the wall. At the bottom of the window, do not install fasteners through the window sill. Usually it is attached to the frame with ordinary self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! You should not make holes through the shoes that the frame is mounted on. If this happens, then it is better to remove the block to the side before tightening the self-tapping screw. If you adjusted the pads for a long time, be sure to mark them with a pencil.

Installation in a skewed window opening

It often happens that the window opening is really skewed. In this case, the most durable fasteners for the window are anchors - ordinary metal strips with holes. Experts usually advise first to fix small fastening intermediate strips on the frame and use them to fasten the anchor to the frame. But this method justifies itself when there are several workers. If you are alone, then it is not worth spending time on this.

Anchors are attached mainly at the ends to the frame using self-tapping screws along the outer perimeter. The tails should stick out inward. They will still be hidden by slopes. As the anchors are ready and screwed to the frame, it can be placed in the window opening. As always, we align the frame horizontally and vertically - after all, our opening is skewed, the holes in the anchors are marked with holes on the wall, the metal strips are bent and they are drilled under the dowels. Once all the holes are ready, the pads are taken out. The frame must hang exactly on the anchors.

Curved openings are either careless work of the builders, or the shrinkage of the building affected the opening. Therefore, you should not have rigid connections between the frame and the walls. The cracks are filled with foam and a window sill is installed. More often, with an oblique opening, the window sill is installed in a hanging way.

Note. Some try to level the window opening with a screed - however, this is a monkey's work, since no screed can stop the uneven shrinkage of the building.

How to properly blow out a gap with foam

Window slots are blown out with a pistol or, at worst, with the tube that comes with the bottle of foam. This is done in several approaches, squeezing out thin sausages starting from the middle inward and vice versa. This method will not allow the foam to exert any pressure on the window frame and the foam itself will be evenly distributed around the perimeter.

Installation in a wooden house

In wooden houses, it is usually easy to install windows. Many experts install them on liquid nails, but most adhere to the self-tapping method. If the opening is skewed, then it can be leveled using the same chainsaw or hacksaw. Wood is much easier to work with. Outside, the platbands must be fixed with self-tapping screws. A strong wind will simply rip them off and no liquid nails will hold them.

There are always holes in a human dwelling, with the help of which natural lighting and, possibly, ventilation are organized. In most architectural projects, window openings are located in the walls. Of course, there are buildings in which sunlight enters through skylights, skylights, skylights and other devices.

Up to 50% of all heat leaving the room falls on the windows. But, despite the huge heat losses, humanity is not ready to “go blind” with its home (in Russian, the words “eye” and “window” have the same root), abandoning traditional windows.

About windows

Over its long history, window structures have undergone not very big changes. The window is still a frame filled with translucent material. Only technologies and materials in the manufacture of the frame itself have changed, and first glass, and then translucent materials made of polymers and composites have replaced the bullish bubble or mica plates.

And the question: “How to install plastic windows in a wooden house” is not entirely correct. First, because the concept itself is commonplace. It is usually understood as windows of a modern design, in which not single glasses are used as glazing, but double-glazed windows (translucent structures made of two or more glasses hermetically connected to each other by spacers and sealants).

Windows with double-glazed windows can also be with wooden frames. And also aluminum, steel or fiberglass, which, by the way, are much better suited to the Russian climate than the widespread PVC. It's just that plastic (PVC) for making frames is the cheapest material, which is why it has become the most common.

And secondly, the process of installing a window does not depend on the material from which it is made. The basic requirements for installation are set out in GOST 30971-2012 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General Specifications" and apply to any design - both modern and traditional.

Yes, and there is not much difference where to install the window: in a brick, wooden or some other house. It is important that the opening in the wall is properly prepared. Since the most common window structures today are PVC profile windows, called plastic ones, the conversation will be about their installation.

How plastic windows are installed

A modern window is a construction that is completely ready for installation, and, as mentioned above, the installation of a plastic window in a wooden house does not differ from the technology of its installation in any other building. Provided that you previously correctly designed the opening. For example, they made a good pigtail. You can read about what it is, why it is needed and how to do it correctly in the publication.

A well-designed opening also means installation gaps of a certain size around the perimeter. In the above-mentioned GOST, the compilers distinguish between 2 types of mounting gaps:

• end (or side) - the space between the end surface of the window box and the opening;
• frontal - the distance between the front surface of the window block and a quarter of the wall.

Mounting clearances: a - end, b - front. Drawing from GOST 30971-2012. Photo from docs.cntd.ru

The dimensions of the mounting gaps depend on the size of the window and the material from which it is made. Refer to the following table for recommended clearances.

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Do-it-yourself window installation

Today, buying or ordering a custom-sized window in a PVC profile frame is not difficult even in a small town, and even in a large city, there are countless companies involved in the manufacture and installation of plastic windows. But many refuse professional installation, relying on their own strength.

And this makes sense: the cost of corporate installation will be from a third to a half of the total cost. In most cases, anyone who has basic building skills, a simple tool and has a partner can install a window on their own in most cases if the window is large.

Installation methods: frame dowels and mounting plates

There are two ways to install a window with a metal-plastic frame: using frame dowels (through the frame) and on special mounting plates fixed on the end side of the frame profile.

It makes no sense to choose which method is better, because each has its own positive aspects. Professionals usually use both, and even during the installation of one structure - depending on the circumstances.

For self-installation of a small window, it may be preferable to use mounting anchor plates. They are attached from the outside and there is no need to “unpack” the window - remove the glazing beads so that you can remove the double-glazed window and get to the attachment point on the inside of the frame.

Professional installers, firstly, have a special tool - plastic spatulas of various shapes, and secondly, dexterity. Improvised means can damage both the frame and the double-glazed window itself.

Mounting on frame expansion dowels, in turn, is more reliable for installing a large window or for glazing that experiences significant wind loads, for example, in an apartment on a high floor. If you do not plan to remove the double-glazed windows, then the opening sashes must still be removed before installing the window.

Window frame options. Drawing from GOST 30971-2012. Photo from docs.cntd.ru

Whichever method you choose, you need to choose reliable fasteners of the required length and in accordance with the wall material. So, for a solid brick, you can use a self-tapping anchor, for a hollow one - Molly bolts, for a concrete wall, self-tapping screws with a plastic dowel are suitable.

When attaching the frame to a wooden wall, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• When installing, you need to take into account the size of the fasteners: self-tapping screws are taken of such a length so as not to pierce the pigtail bar through. Window fasteners should be fixed only to the casing beam, and not to the wall. Otherwise, the installation of casing becomes a waste of money.
• If the details of the pigtail, in addition to the mounting, also perform a decorative function (they serve as slopes), then the installation of a metal-plastic frame using special anchor plates is impossible, since the fasteners will be visible.

Marking of attachment points

After you have made sure that the prepared opening meets the requirements and dimensions of the finished window block, and you have purchased all the necessary set of hardware, you need to mark the attachment points - the location of the anchor mounting plates or the arrangement of holes for dowels.

The layout of fasteners and support pads. Drawing from GOST 30971-2012. Photo from docs.cntd.ru

The number of attachment points and their location depends on the design of the window and its size. You must adhere to the following parameters:

• from mullion connection points - 150-180 mm;
• between fasteners along the length or height of the window - 600-700 mm.

Holes are made in marked places or plates are installed. Then the prepared frame is placed in the opening, leveled in the horizontal and vertical planes with the help of a level and fixed with spacers. Professional installers have special plastic wedges for this purpose. You can replace them with wooden ones - just bars or wedges. GOST recommends pre-impregnating wooden wedges with antiseptics. Holes are made in the wall in accordance with the existing holes in the frame or mounting plates.

Assembly seam device

In many cases (including professional installers, if the contract does not state “installation according to GOST”) at this stage, they fix the window block, hang the sashes and install double-glazed windows, and the mounting gap is filled with mounting foam.

Installation according to GOST is somewhat more complicated. I will quote GOST 30971-2012 clause 5.1.3: “The construction of the assembly seam includes 3 or 4 layers with different functional purposes:

• the main central layer - providing heat and sound insulation;
• the outer layer of sealing - ensuring the diffusion of moisture from the assembly seam and protection from atmospheric influences (rain moisture, ultraviolet radiation, wind);
• inner sealing layer - providing vapor barrier and protection of the insulating layer from diffuse vaporous moisture from inside the room.

I - outer waterproofing vapor permeable layer;
II - the main central heat-insulating layer;
III - inner layer of vapor barrier;
IV - additional vapor barrier.

To create the first waterproofing layer, PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used.

Also, waterproofing and vapor barrier tapes are used, which are glued to the frame from the outer and inner sides, respectively, and along the perimeter of the opening to the wall (see the installation seam diagram above). For convenience, the tapes have 2 rows of adhesive layer: one is glued to the frame, the second - to the opening.

Hydro- and vapor barrier tapes for mounting windows with an adhesive layer. Photo from chistoe-okno.ru

After equipping the opening and frame with all layers of vapor and waterproofing, the frame is finally exposed in the opening, securely fixed, sashes and double-glazed windows are installed. And finally, the mounting gap "foams".

The use of vapor and waterproofing materials when installing a plastic window will prevent the destruction of the mounting foam under the action of ultraviolet radiation and the effect of diffuse moisture on the insulation layer. Which, in turn, will not only increase the service life of the insulation layer, but also protect the window slopes from damp spots and mold.

Installation of fittings and accessories

After the mounting foam dries, you need to cut off the excess and glue the second side of the vapor barrier tape. On the outside of the window, a low tide is mounted, decorative linings are installed on the holes for condensate drainage, a mosquito net. Additionally, the mounting seam can be closed from the side of the street with plastic or metal flashings.

When installing a window in a wooden house, the slits where the pigtails adjoin the walls are covered with decorative platbands. Do not forget that all finishing details (slopes, ebbs, trim parts) are also attached only to the casing beam, and not to the wall, so that the window with all the elements is installed independently and does not deform when the frame shrinks. From the side of the premises, final finishing work is also carried out - installation of fittings, slopes, window sills.

A properly installed window will delight you for more than one year, especially if you did it yourself.