Is it worth it to insulate the roof of the house. Insulation of the cornice, how to properly close the contour of the roof and wall

Roof insulation from the inside is the best option for work for several reasons.

Roof insulation is done only for residential attic spaces, due to this, heat losses are significantly reduced and living comfort is increased. Today, companies produce a wide range of materials for insulation, all of which have both positive and negative sides. When choosing a specific insulation, it is important to know its features and take into account the characteristics of the building truss system.

There are many names of materials for insulation, but they are all divided into two large groups.

Table. Roof insulation groups.

Name of heaters	Operational and Physical Characteristics
	This group includes mineral wool from basalt, glass wool from recycled glass and ecowool from waste paper. Wool insulation can be pressed in the form of mats of standard sizes or rolled. There are options for spraying liquid ecowool. In terms of thermal conductivity and weight, the listed species almost do not differ from each other. The most expensive mineral wool.
	Styrofoam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc. All these heaters are made on the basis of the same polymer, they differ in production technology and some additives. Most often they have the form of plates of various thicknesses and sizes, they can differ significantly in terms of physical strength. The thermal conductivity is almost the same, slight fluctuations in practice have no effect. The price range is large. Can be used in liquid form (sprayed) or as slabs.

For example, we will consider the two most common options for roof insulation from the inside. Examples are not only budgetary, but also effective. The process is divided into several stages, the final quality of the work depends on the correct implementation of each of them.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Inspection of the truss system and roofing

A very important stage of preparation for warming. Make an audit of all elements of the roofing system, check the condition of the roof covering. If problems are found, they must be fixed immediately.

Measure the distance between the rafter legs, this will help you navigate the choice of insulation. The fact is that all heaters have standard dimensions in width. This simplifies and speeds up installation work and reduces waste. The width of the insulation is 60 cm, but, unfortunately, some manufacturers allow fluctuations in one direction or another by several centimeters. The distance between the rafter legs should be within 56–57 cm. In practice, such correct roofs can rarely be found.

See if a windscreen is installed between the roof and the attic, if it has air vents for natural ventilation. This is very important in cases where insulation is planned to be done with mineral wool.

Prices for material for vapor barrier

Vapor barrier material

Selection and purchase of materials

The most commonly used materials for roof insulation are mineral wool and polystyrene foam, and we will focus on them in detail. If you have a simple gable roof, then its insulation is not very difficult technologically. A completely different situation is with a broken or hipped roof. These structures have many different stops, runs, ties and other elements that reinforce the truss system. During insulation, you have to cut the mineral wool or polystyrene, make various bends and bends. As a result, the complexity of the work increases and the amount of waste increases.

But this is not all the problems. Complicated roofs can never be hermetically sealed with a vapor barrier layer, there will always be places through which moist air enters the insulation. For mineral wool, this is a very unpleasant phenomenon. Experienced builders recommend insulating complex roofs with polystyrene foam, and not taking risks with mineral wool. Wet wool not only almost completely loses its heat-saving abilities, but also accelerates the putrefactive processes of the wooden structures of the truss system.

Roof insulation work

The technology of work largely depends on the material chosen, but for all cases there are general tips.

If it is possible to work with an assistant - excellent, the warming process will go much faster. There is no such possibility - it's okay, all the work can be done independently.

Roof insulation plays a huge role in the completion of construction work. Having built a house or cottage, you have to think about how to make the building as comfortable, warm and cozy as possible. Regardless of whether there will be accommodation in the attic or not, it is necessary to insulate the roof in any case. This will reduce heat loss and contribute to energy saving.

Do-it-yourself roof insulation

It is not necessary to carry out work on roof insulation with the help of a specialist, everything can be done with your own hands. The whole process should begin with the selection of the necessary materials and the creation of a plan and scheme of work. Any roof consists of external (roof) and internal (overlapping and truss frame) parts.

All insulation work is carried out only after checking these components, and if necessary, they are repaired. Then remove excess moisture and get rid of dampness and mold.

To prevent bacterial damage to wooden structures, the inner surface of the roof is treated with an antiseptic, and to protect metal structures from rust, such surfaces are treated with anti-corrosion compounds.

Materials for insulation

Modern manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for roof insulation. The most popular are:

• Mineral wool (fiberglass, stone slabs);
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• Polyurethane foam.

The material to dwell on is determined by the features of the roof. For example, pitched roofs are best insulated with fiberglass.

Fiberglass

This material has excellent heat-insulating and sound-insulating properties. Also, fiberglass is durable, the service life reaches fifty years, it is fire resistant and vapor permeable. And, of course, the price, the purchase of such material is a very inexpensive pleasure.

The most popular materials in use are mineral wool and expanded polystyrene. This popularity is due to the ease of manipulation with them.

Mineral wool

Depending on the initial type of material (stone or glass), mineral wool is divided into two types:

– the fibrous structure of the material, formed during the melting of small rock particles, as well as various slags and mixtures obtained in industrial metallurgy, make the product truly unique.

The material is not afraid of high temperatures, and is also sufficiently resistant to aggressive chemicals.


glass wool- heat-insulating material having air fibers, which have special strength. The product is obtained by melting ordinary glass. Like stone wool, the insulation has a high resistance to chemical products and does not burn.

The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.05 W/m°C at 25°C. During operation, glass wool practically does not shrink, and its fibrous structure, even after a long period of time, remains the same elastic and elastic.

Mineral wool has excellent characteristics in the following areas:

• Low thermal conductivity;
• Excellent sound insulation;
• Fire resistance, which is very important for the roof material;
• High environmental friendliness and durability.

Styrofoam and foam

Both heaters have a fairly low specific gravity, so their use does not make the roof heavier, and also does not provide for the additional use of a vapor-insulating material, since neither polystyrene nor absorb moisture.

polyurethane foam

One of the modern materials is.

It does not need to be glued or nailed to the surface, it is applied by spraying onto it. This material has excellent adhesion to surfaces and the result is a durable seamless construction that does not allow cold or moisture to pass through.

Ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof

When the materials are selected, you can go directly to the process of laying the material. The peculiarity of such a process depends on the design of the roof and the future use of the attic.

If the use of the attic as a living space is not provided, then the insulation material is laid on the floor of the attic between the logs, and not between the roof rafters. A membrane is laid on top to improve vapor permeability, then it can be covered with any floor covering.

To exclude the formation of the appearance of "cold bridges", the insulation must adhere to the lags as tightly as possible. To do this, when cutting insulation, its size must be done on 1-2 cm. wider than the distance between the lags.

Attic insulation from the inside

If it is decided to equip the attic for living quarters, you should insulate the roof with your own hands using a different technology:

1. Initially, a waterproofing layer is laid to protect the insulating material from getting wet. To do this, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the crate and fixed with bars of the counter-crate;
2. Then the insulation itself is laid between the rafters. In order to avoid the formation of gaps, during installation, the same technology should be followed as when insulating the ceiling - the insulation should be wider by 1-2 cm.
3. As a vapor-permeable layer, a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation, at the joints, it is overlapped;
4. The film is fixed on top with bars, which will serve as the basis for finishing.

How and how to insulate a flat roof

Warming a flat roof goes a little differently. The beginning of work is the definition of the purpose of the premises. The proposed use of the attic for a gym or some other place for entertainment suggests that the roof must be really strong in order to withstand serious loads.

1. To form a small roof slope, a cement screed is made on a reinforced concrete slab;
2. Then, as in the case of a pitched roof, a waterproofing layer is laid;
3. Upon completion of these works, everything is covered from above with a layer of heat-insulating material (polystyrene, stone wool, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.), on top of which a layer of fiberglass or geotextile is laid.
4. And the final stage is the backfilling of pebbles or a layer of gravel and the subsequent laying of floor or paving slabs.

If there is no living space under the roof, then the vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid in the attic, and the waterproofing layer under the roofing material. And in the case of complete non-use of the attic space of a flat roof, insulation is carried out either from the inside or from the outside.

Having insulated the roof, you will receive not only additional square meters, but also reliable protection for the house from severe frosts in winter and sultry heat in summer.

Insulation of the roof from the inside is carried out not only in order to arrange an additional room in the attic, but also to maximize the preservation of heat throughout the house.

If the building has a mansard roof, then the insulation is carried out directly on the roof itself, which is not only a roof for the future room, but also walls. If the structure or has one slope, then most often the thermal insulation is arranged in the attic floor.

The third option of thermal insulation measures is used in regions with a harsh climate, where both the roof itself and the ceiling are insulated from the inside.

Types of insulation used

The modern building materials market offers a lot of types of heaters, of which you can choose suitable for any thermal insulation work.

• Bulk materials are sawdust, expanded clay of various fractions, slag, dry leaves or needles. These heaters are used for backfilling in the attic floor, and they perfectly protect the lower rooms of the house from the penetration of cold, but they will not be able to make the attic itself warm.

• Mineral wool of various types, expanded polystyrene, penoflex and polyurethane foam are suitable for warming both attic floors and.

All these materials are light enough, so they will not make the structure of the roof and the whole house heavier, but will make it much warmer. The technologies for installing heat-insulating materials differ from each other, so it is worth considering some of them.

It should be noted that with the advent of auxiliary materials that facilitate the work process and are aimed at protecting the thermal insulation itself from external influences and maintaining their performance, it has become easier to carry out the installation process.

Video: mineral wool is an excellent material for roof insulation

Mineral wool prices

Mineral wool

Vapor barrier coatings

One such material is vapor barrier film. It is designed to protect wooden structures and insulation from exposure to vapors that occur during temperature changes and lead to the formation of condensate. Excess moisture provokes the appearance of mold, which destroys the structure of the tree, reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation and contributes to the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room.

The vapor barrier membrane is fixed to the roof structure or ceiling before laying insulation materials.

When using a vapor barrier film in a heated room, it is placed only under the finishing layer of the walls.

To protect structures that are affected on the one hand by high temperatures, and on the other hand, low, the vapor barrier must be located on both sides. Such structures include wooden attic floors and roofing with its insulation. Concrete slabs do not require the installation of vapor barrier materials.

The protective film can have different thicknesses and be of different types - a regular non-woven material or a foil membrane. In the case of using the latter on the structure of the attic floor, it is laid with foil down, as it reflects the heat rising from below to the ceiling, thereby preventing it from escaping. Between themselves, the sheets of material are fastened with foil tape, which helps to create a tight seal.

Prices for different types of insulating films

Insulating films

Attic floor insulation

Any warming measures are best carried out during the construction of a house, but, unfortunately, very often it is done only when they feel the winter cold.

Before you fall asleep or lay the insulation, you need to carry out preparatory work. This is especially important if expanded clay of fine fraction, slag or sawdust is used.

• Previously, when there were no modern auxiliary materials on sale, the plank attic floor was prepared as follows:

- The boards fixed to the floor beams were carefully smeared with a solution of clay or lime, having a consistency of medium density. These natural materials create a good tightness of the ceiling, but at the same time they allow the whole structure to “breathe”.

- After the clay or lime had completely dried, insulation work was carried out. Previously, slag, sawdust, dry leaves, or a mixture of these materials were mainly used for this. They fell asleep between the beams on prepared boards.

It should be noted that the old traditional method is quite reliable, and therefore some builders even prefer it to modern ones to this day.

• In modern construction, mainly for flooring under insulation, a special vapor barrier film is used. Her canvases are laid completely over the entire attic area with an overlap of 15-20 cm, deepening between the floor beams and fixing them on boards and beams. It is recommended to glue the canvases together with construction tape.

The film will become an additional barrier to the exit of heat from the premises of the house through the ceiling, since the heated air, ascending, not finding a way out, will descend and remain inside the house.

• Further, insulating material is poured onto the film, mineral wool is laid, expanded clay is poured, or the openings between the beams are filled with ecowool. You can also use the insulation used earlier - slag or sawdust.

• To avoid the occurrence of cold bridges through wooden beams, they also need to fix a layer of thin insulation.

• On top of the insulation material, another layer of vapor barrier is laid, in the same way as before - overlapped. This layer of film is fixed to the floor beams with slats, which are more often called counter-battens.
• A coating of boards or thick plywood is laid on top.

Sometimes the vapor barrier can also be fixed from the inside of the room to the wooden ceiling, but in this case it will need to be finished, for example, with plasterboard. They will level the ceiling and become another additional insulating layer.

Insulation of roof slopes

When insulating roof slopes, as well as when insulating floors, apply mineral wool and styrofoam, but mineral wool in this case, it is preferable, since it has almost zero flammability.

If, nevertheless, it is decided to use foam, then it is recommended to purchase an extruded version. Although it has a slightly higher thermal conductivity, it is not combustible, and this is very important for wooden structures.

Different systems are used to insulate roof slopes, but they always contain a layer of vapor barrier material, insulation, waterproofing and a counter-lattice.

1. This diagram shows one of the options for an insulating "pie". It is used in the construction of the roof and roofing flooring.

• It is laid on the rafter system. Usually, polyethylene is used for this layer, which has a high density (more than 200 microns thick) - it will also protect the roof not only from moisture, but from the penetration of wind under it. The film is laid with an overlap of 20 ÷ 25 cm and fixed to the rafters with staples and a stapler.
• On top of the film, a counter-rail with a thickness of 5 ÷ 7 mm is fixed to each rafter. It is necessary so that the roofing material does not adhere directly to the waterproofing film, and there is a small distance between them for air circulation.
• Further, if the roof slopes will be covered with soft roofing material, it is necessary to lay plywood on top of the counter-rails. In the case when slate or other rigid sheet material is used, a crate is arranged instead of plywood, the width between its slats is calculated from the length of the sheets of roofing material.
• When the crate is ready, the roof is covered with the selected coating.

After that, you can proceed to the insulation measures that are carried out from the inside, that is, from the attic.

• Mats of mineral wool or other insulation are laid between the rafters. They should fit as tightly as possible between the elements of the wooden structure. Installation of mats is carried out, starting from the bottom, gradually rising to the ridge. The insulation should have the same thickness as the width of the rafters or slightly less. her, by about 10 ÷ 15 mm.
• The laid insulation is tightened with a vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rafters with slats. The film is also overlapped and glued with construction tape.

The last stage is the decorative decoration of the walls of the attic room

• Further, if the attic is to be equipped as a living room, then the entire surface is sheathed with plasterboard or clapboard. In addition, in this case, in addition to the walls and ceiling, the floors are also insulated, that is, the attic floor.

2. Another option may be a thicker insulating "pie", which also fits immediately when the roof is being installed.

• In this case, a waterproofing windproof film is also laid on the rafter system.
• On top of it, a crate for roofing material is arranged.
• Further from the side of the attic, between the rafters, the first layer of insulation must have equal to the width of the rafters.
• Then, transverse slats are stuffed onto the rafters at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation of the next layer. In this case, the insulation is used already thinner. Its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the stuffed transverse rails.
• After that comes vapor barrier film, which is fixed to the rails with brackets.
• The interior trim material is then attached to the rails.

If the roof is insulated in an already built house, where the roofing is fixed, then a vapor barrier is fixed to the rafters from the side of the attic with brackets, and only after that the insulation is laid. Further, the process proceeds in the same way as in the previous versions.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam goes differently than bulk materials or mineral wool mats and polystyrene.

This method of thermal insulation has recently become more and more popular and is suitable for both ordinary attics and an attic, which will later become an additional room.

If the attic is ventilated, and there will be no living space in it, then only the attic floor is insulated. To do this, it is recommended to moisten the boards and beams for better adhesion, and a thin layer of polyurethane foam is sprayed on the wet surface between the beams. After it foams, increases in volume and solidifies, if necessary, another layer is applied. Such insulation will be quite enough to keep the house warm, as the foam penetrates into all the cracks and closes them hermetically.

If the attic allows for its height to arrange a room on it, or the attic is an attic superstructure to the house, in addition to covering with polyurethane foam, the roof slopes are also insulated.

Spraying starts from the bottom of the structure, gradually rising to the ridge. Foam is sprayed between the rafters, and its lower layers, rising and solidifying, will be the reference for the next upper applied levels.

A similar or attic creates a completely sealed non-ventilated space. Polyurethane foam will retain heat well inside the premises in winter and will not allow the attic to overheat on hot summer days. However, ventilation should still be provided, since the room must receive air flow.

This type of thermal insulation has the following advantages over other heaters:

• The polyurethane foam coating has no joints and seams over the entire insulated area.
• A significant reduction in temperature fluctuations in the attic and rooms on the lower floors is achieved.
• The building receives reliable protection from low and high temperatures affecting the house from the outside.
• This method of insulation shows a high payback in a very short time, by reducing heating costs due to the low thermal conductivity of the sprayed material.
• When spraying polyurethane foam directly onto the roof, it receives additional stiffness and strength, as roofing forms a reliable connection with the entire roof structure. At the same time, the polyurethane foam layer does not lead to a significant weighting of the roof.
• Convenience application - foam closes all hard-to-reach places of roofs and ceilings, penetrating into all large and small holes and crevices, expanding and sealing walls and floors.
• Polyurethane foam is highly resistant to moisture, to the appearance any forms of biological life, high and low temperatures, prevents the emergence and development of wood decay processes.
• Foam gives not only excellent thermal insulation to the premises, but also well insulates from extraneous noise from the outside.
• Polyurethane foam does not shrink, wrinkle or soften.
• The insulation has a fairly long service life, which is about 30 years.
• The material does not emit substances toxic to the human body and unpleasant odors.

The "cons" of the sprayed insulation include the following factors:

• The toxicity of the material during its application, so you need to work with the use of protective equipment.

Uncured polyurethane foam is quite toxic, so all work is carried out with mandatory skin, eye and respiratory protection.

• Polyurethane foam is subject to the negative influence of ultraviolet rays, therefore, after applying the insulation, it must be covered with a finishing material, for example, clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• For installation work on insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to have special expensive equipment. True, if you have the skills to work with this material, then the equipment can also be rented. But in the case when this work is unfamiliar, it is better not to take risks, but to invite specialists with equipment to spray the material.

Video: spraying polyurethane foam on roof slopes from the inside

Insulation of the attic and roof is necessary for buildings located in most Russian regions, so this process should not be postponed “for later”, but thermal insulation work should be carried out even at the stage of building a house. Excluding the method of spraying polyurethane, all other insulation measures can be carried out independently, observing the technology of work. If you enlist the help of a friend, then the insulation of the roof may well be completed in a few days.

An attic is the space between the ceiling and the roof of a home. It can be equipped for living and working premises and unequipped, that is, the attic performs exclusively storage functions. Is it necessary to insulate the attic in a private house? The answer is unequivocal and obvious, it is necessary. For example, the transformation of an ordinary attic into a living space makes it possible to increase the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling, while not occupying an additional land allotment.

Many people are happy to use summer attics without insulation and enjoy the invigorating air and beautiful views from above. But it is a warm room that can bring true comfort on early spring days or during the months of autumn bad weather. According to natural laws, heat rises and if the thermal insulation is made in accordance with all the rules, then there is enough heat even without additional heating. Everyone will agree that in a crisis, this is a significant savings. Attic insulation is a kind of process that represents the manufacture, figuratively speaking, of a layer cake. Each of its components is irreplaceable and performs its specific function. But regardless of whether the attic is residential or not, it must be insulated, since the house needs protection from cold air from above, as well as from all sides. Since everyone knows the truth that heat leaves the house through the walls, ceiling, floor and roof. Therefore, attic insulation measures must be taken seriously, carefully and in no case should the process be ignored. Mistakes in this matter are unforgivable, they can result in wetting of the insulation layer, and as a result, the loss of its effectiveness. If the thermal insulation is insufficient, then condensation will accumulate on the ceiling of the house and the attic floor, and this is a very favorable environment for the development of mold. Well, plus everything, the general protection of the house is also violated, which means that additional financial costs for heating will be required. Insulation of attics must be carried out immediately after completion of roofing work. For “narrow” specialists, this work may be overwhelming, since today attic insulation is the prerogative of roofers or builders who are engaged in finishing work. This is where the main threat of poor-quality performance of such a procedure lies. Mistakes that may be made by inexperienced specialists will not be revealed immediately. The only way out of such a difficult situation is personal control of each stage of the insulation work, of course, you first need to study all the current moments. Types of insulation

Foam plastic, extruded and mineral wool heaters are used as a heater. But for residential buildings it is desirable to use mineral materials of basalt or glass wool. Their main advantage is that they do not burn, besides, they weigh little and have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. Another advantage is their rigidity, which ensures dimensional stability and resistance to slipping.

Uninhabited attic

The main function of the insulation layer in such an attic is to keep heat in the house, while creating an obstacle to its exit through the floors. The first mistake that can occur at the stage of finishing the ceiling with plasterboard is the lack of vapor barrier. It should overlap (10 cm); the seams must be connected with self-adhesive tape. If the vapor barrier layer is not laid under the insulation, then after 3-5 years, the entire insulation will become unusable. Why? Because warm air rises up, it is saturated with moisture and, getting into the cold zone, this very moisture condenses. The insulation is saturated with water and the process of decay begins. Only after following this procedure, you can start laying the heat insulator. Loose or fibrous materials-heat insulators are best suited for warming the attic floor. They perfectly close all the cracks, thereby forming a dense layer of insulation. It can be ecowool, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene granules. Insulation of attic floors is also possible with expanded polystyrene sheets, while the remaining gaps are blown out with mounting foam. Mineral wool is the most common material used in residential and non-residential attics. Insulation installation - recommendations:

If the floor beams are not very thick, then after they are filled with insulation, you can fill the rails perpendicularly on top of the beams, and place an additional layer between them. As a result, such slats can be used as floor lathing in the attic; - if the distance between the beams and the width of the slabs is different, then you can resort to the use of triangular slabs. The meaning is that two triangular plates are combined relative to the adjacent diagonal, which means they fall into the interbeam space. But we should not forget that the quality of such styling will directly depend on the correct technology for cutting corners; - if the length of the insulation roll is shorter than the length of the overlap, then the pairing can be performed as follows: at the junction, the missing part is laid on top of the already laid insulation and cut off at the joint level. In this case, the cut off part turns out to be a little longer, and this is what is needed for a tight and high-quality docking. residential loft

This is a more time consuming and complex process. Insulation begins with checking the integrity of the film, which is located under the roof. If damaged areas are found, they must be sealed with a special repair tape. Such an operation does not make sense if plywood or plank flooring is already nailed to the rafter legs. The next stage is the fastening of the remote rails to the rafter legs. These slats create a gap between the film and the insulation (3-5 cm). The space left will provide ventilation for the insulation to dry and ventilate it. A similar measure applies to films with vapor permeability

It is undesirable to use too wide strips of insulation when laying it in the inter-beam space. There will be a strong compaction of the material, and its heat-insulating properties will decrease;

When insulating, you need to use the same type of material, since a violation of uniformity reduces quality indicators;

It is impossible to delaminate the plates to reduce the thickness;

The manhole cover that leads to the attic must also be insulated at the level of general thermal insulation: in order to avoid strong heat losses;

Replacing the vapor barrier film with a sealed one is a gross violation of technology. Moisture will accumulate in the thermal insulation layer and the effect of this will decrease. In addition to all of the above, I would like to note the argument that new materials with unique characteristics and properties appear on the building materials market. One of them is polyurethane foam. This is a revolutionary material, a seamless insulation that is not afraid of mold and fungus, does not rot. Plus, it is environmentally friendly and has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, which means that the thickness of the coating will be less than that of mineral wool or expanded clay. As you can see, the insulation options can be different, the main thing is that the work is done with high quality, then the maximum benefit will be achieved.

In order for the roof to perform its functions qualitatively and serve for a long time, it must be insulated. There are many materials and methods for installing a heat-insulating layer, and the choice of the appropriate technology is always carried out individually. This article will discuss how to properly install insulation on the roof of a private house.

The need for roof insulation

Of course, the final decision on whether to insulate the roof is made by the owner of the house - but before that, you need to weigh all the pros and cons. The latter include additional costs for the arrangement of the roof and the effort required to install the heat-insulating layer.

However, the financial costs and efforts will pay off in the future. The main advantage of roof insulation is that after installation, the level of heat loss of the entire building is reduced by an average of 15%. If the under-roof space is not intended to be used as residential, then the roof itself does not need to be insulated - the thermal insulation of the roof of the house in this case will be mounted on the floor of the attic or the ceiling of residential premises. In order for the structure not to rot, high-quality ventilation of the roof will be required.

The most relevant roof insulation will be when arranging a residential attic, especially if the building is located in a region with a harsh climate. In such cases, if the attic is used all year round, you will have to pay special attention to the issues of its insulation and heating. Less stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation of summer attics.

How to properly insulate a flat roof

When insulating a flat roof, it must be borne in mind that thermal insulation can be both on the inside and on the outside. It is advisable to start with external insulation, and after the first winter, decide whether it makes sense to insulate the roof along the rafters from the inside.

The roofing pie of a flat roof consists of:

• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation layer;
• waterproofing layer;
• Bulk layer.

For the arrangement of external thermal insulation, basalt mineral wool is most often used, which is optimally suited for these purposes. However, you can choose from any type of rigid insulation - for example, expanded polystyrene would be a good option. It is also worth remembering that roofing that is prone to fire cannot be insulated with polymer heat insulators.

Pitched roof insulation

The thermal insulation of the pitched roof is installed on the truss system. Before laying the insulation on the roof, it is necessary to design it in advance in order to avoid installation errors.

The pitched roof consists of the following elements:

• roofing;
• waterproofing layer;
• Thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier material;
• Interior decoration (optional).

Mineral wool is most often used as a heat-insulating material, which has high performance characteristics and is relatively inexpensive. The main disadvantage of mineral insulation is the ability to absorb moisture, due to which the thermal insulation properties are lost over time. In addition, the presence of moisture under the roof leads to the gradual destruction of wooden parts.

To compensate for the described disadvantage, the design must be supplemented with ventilation, hydro and vapor barrier. The insulation itself on the roof of the house is laid on the wrong side of the roof during its arrangement or repair. If we are talking about repairs, then damaged wooden elements should be replaced, and new ones should be treated with protective compounds before installation.

In addition, for effective insulation and reliability, the roof must be well ventilated, so you need to equip ventilation ducts between:

• Waterproofing layer and top coat;
• Thermal insulation and waterproofing layer;
• Vapor barrier material and inner lining.

Materials for insulation of pitched roofs

For roof insulation, various materials can be used, among which the most popular are:

• Mineral wool;
• glass wool;
• polyurethane foam;
• Styrofoam.

The characteristics and features of the materials are different, but they all adequately protect the roof from temperature effects. It is only worth noting that it is best to select materials released in the form of plates - they are much more convenient to mount.

For the arrangement of the waterproofing layer, an ordinary roofing material or a special waterproofing membrane is most often used, which does not allow water to pass through, but ensures the removal of moisture from the heat insulator. When installing waterproofing, you need to ensure that the tightness of the material has not been violated.

Vapor barrier can be equipped from different materials, including:

• Ruberoid;
• Polyethylene film;
• glassine;
• foil materials.

However, if we are talking about a high-quality vapor barrier layer, then the best option would be a vapor barrier membrane, which works on the principle of one-way moisture transmission - condensate is removed from the insulation and does not enter the internal cavities of the roofing pie.

Roof insulation algorithm - how to lay thermal insulation

Installation of a roof with insulation is reduced to the following sequence of actions:

1. First, the installation step of the rafter legs is measured. Plates of heat-insulating material are cut in accordance with the dimensions obtained, but 1 cm is added to them - this will enable the insulation to stay in place on its own. You can simplify this stage of work when arranging a new roof by calculating it so that the distance between the rafters corresponds to the width of the insulation boards.
2. A waterproofing layer must be installed in the space between the rafters and the finish coat. The membrane must be attached to the rafters so that it envelops them. For fixing, you can use a construction stapler, with which the waterproofing is attached to the rafter legs and the crate. Waterproofing material must be brought to the eaves so that the collected moisture goes beyond the roof. The described method of fastening does not allow to equip full ventilation, therefore, only a special waterproofing membrane should be used as a material.
3. If the waterproofing is already installed under the upper part of the roof, then nails are driven into the rafters every 10 cm so that the distance between them and the membrane is at least 3-5 cm. waterproofing and thermal insulation material. In the event that the insulation itself is fastened with a cord, then the nails will also need to be hammered along the outside of the rafters.
4. When using heaters released in the form of plates, installation comes down to inserting them into the space between the rafters (naturally, they will have to be squeezed a little so that they go into the gap). More rigid materials must be carefully adjusted to fit the gaps in the rafter system before properly insulating the roof. For maximum efficiency, it is worth installing a two-layer insulation.
5. When installing narrow fragments that require joining along one of the planes, you need to make sure that the joints of the first and second layers of thermal insulation do not coincide with each other. The layer of thermal insulation should not extend beyond the rafters, and if this happens, then additional timber will have to be filled on the rafters.
6. To fix the insulation, a cord stretched between the nails or a crate made of slats can be used. These slats need to be nailed to the rafters at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. In this case, the vapor barrier layer must be fixed before the crate is installed - due to the thickness of the rails, an air gap is provided.
7. When installing a vapor barrier, you need to make sure that the material is installed tightly. To do this, the joints must be closed with two layers of adhesive tape. Particular attention should be paid to the points where the material is connected to the wall and chimney. When all structural elements are installed, you can proceed to the final stage - the installation of the skin.

Conclusion

Roof insulation is a very important part of the structure, which allows you to increase the thermal efficiency of the roof. Knowing how to properly lay the insulation on the roof, and the high-quality performance of all work will allow you to create a reliable and high-quality structure that will perform its functions throughout the entire period of operation.

January 19, 2017

The correct construction of the roof determines how high-quality its operation will be. This applies not only to the choice of roofing material, but also to the presence and proper installation of a waterproofing layer. What is the right way to avoid mistakes?

The roof is insulated both during the construction of the roof and during repair work. The technology for installing insulation directly depends on the type of roof, the type of insulation and the purpose of the attic space.

This material is used to minimize heat loss. For the best effect, it is necessary to choose the right insulation and lay it in accordance with the installation technology. Properly performed work on roof insulation increases the thermal efficiency of the structure by 15%. Thus, in the attic room or in the attic you can live all year round.

The highest demands are placed on residential attics, which are located in regions with frosty winters. For summer attics or attics, you can use a thinner layer of thermal insulation material. In the roofing cake of a non-residential attic space, there is often no insulation. It is laid on the ceiling of the dwelling located below. In this case, the space is well ventilated, and this prevents premature decay of the truss system.

Thermal insulation for a flat roof

How to insulate a roof with a minimum angle of inclination? Installation work can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Many experts recommend that you first perform external insulation and winter. It is the winter period that will determine the need for the construction of additional internal insulation.
The roofing pie of a flat roof consists of:

• Vapor barriers;
• insulation;
• Waterproofing;
• A layer of loose building materials coated with a cement-sand mixture.

To perform external insulation, basalt wool is most often used. Rigid insulation materials such as polystyrene foam are also used. Polymer insulation cannot be used in the construction of roofs with high fire safety requirements.

Insulation for pitched roof

The construction of the roofing pie of the pitched roof differs from the previous version. Insulation is laid on the rafters. This configuration of the roof requires attention and knowledge in the installation of insulation material. Incorrectly performed work can, for a minimum period of operation, disable the wooden structures of the truss system.

But how to insulate the roof correctly? First you need to choose a material. Most often, mineral wool is used. It does not support the combustion process, is easy to install, and is characterized by an affordable price. The disadvantage is the ability to accumulate moisture, which further reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material and the decay of the wood of the truss system. Therefore, when constructing a roofing pie, it is necessary to properly position the hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof.

The heat insulator must be laid from the side of the attic. If you are doing repairs, then you need to check the condition of the truss system. If you find structural elements in which decay processes are present, they should be replaced immediately. Remember that all wood must be treated with an agent that prevents the penetration of insects and protects against fire.

The roofing pie of the pitched roof consists of:

• roofing material;
• Waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• Vapor barriers, interior finishes.

When performing installation work, it is necessary to provide for the presence of an air gap in which air will circulate. For high-quality circulation in the roof, it is necessary to make special vents under the ridge and in the roof overhang. Layers need to be created between such layers:

• Interior decoration and vapor barrier;
• Waterproofing and roofing material;
• Waterproofing and insulation.

We learned the features of the construction and insulation of roofs of various types.

Construction of a heat-insulating layer of a pitched roof

Glass wool, slab polymeric materials, mineral wool are used to build high-quality thermal insulation at home. The methods of their installation are almost the same, but experts say that the material in the form of plates is much easier to mount, especially if necessary. Remember that the installation of the roof takes place at a height. Therefore, you must take care of your safety. Stand on the roof with confidence.

For the manufacture of a waterproofing layer, roofing felt and a waterproofing membrane are most often used. The latter is advised by experts, because it does not allow moisture to pass through, but it can remove moisture from the insulation layer. Also use glassine, foil materials. The latter are laid in such a way that the foil side is placed towards the attic.

Many experts argue that it is better to use a vapor barrier membrane in a roofing cake. It has the ability to "breathe".

Pitched roof insulation

How to insulate the roof of this configuration, because it is she who is the most popular? Actually, it's very simple. First of all, you need to do some calculations. To do this, measure the distance between the rafters. Given the data obtained, it is necessary to cut the insulation boards, leaving an additional 1 cm on all sides. Thus, the heat insulator will be fixed at a distance between the rafter beams. The fastening of the tile material will be completely easy if during the design it was planned to use this particular material.

If there is no insulation between the finish coat and the rafters, waterproofing should be installed. It should envelop the rafters from almost all sides. Fastening is carried out to wood using a stapler. Waterproofing must be removed under the overhang from the underside of the roof. This will ensure reliable moisture removal. Insulation in this case is laid close, without a layer. In this embodiment, it is better to use waterproofing, which has the ability to "breathe".

If you have chosen a cotton slab insulation, then it must be pressed a little between the rafters. If stiffer materials are used, then they must exactly match the distance between the rafters. Experts recommend laying insulation in 2 layers. If the width of the rafters does not allow a double layer to be laid, then an additional beam is nailed to them, increasing the width.

Thermal insulation should not protrude onto the plane of the rafter legs. Between the rafters, it is fixed with a stretched cord, previously fixed on nails. They are typed in increments of 10 cm, at a distance of 5 cm from the waterproofing. You can also use a counter-lattice for fixing. In this case, the slats are stuffed in increments of 40 cm between the rafters.
The vapor barrier should be stretched with an overlap of 10 cm, gluing the joints with a special double-sided adhesive tape. Particular attention should be paid to the installation of a vapor barrier around the chimney.

The final stage is the lining of the roof from the inside.

Features of the construction of the roofing cake are known, but how much does it cost? It depends on the type of materials used in the construction. Remember that a well-insulated house will pay off in the near future, saving a large amount of money during the heating season.

To understand how to properly insulate a roof, you need to understand its types. The most common types of roof structures are cold attic and attic. In the first case, insulation of the ceilings of the upper residential floor will be required (the air in the attic space does not warm up, hence the name). In the second - laying thermal insulation along the roof rafters. In today's article, we will analyze in detail the process of warming the roof of a cold attic.

The cold attic is the most common, time-tested roof structure that has been used around the world for decades. Widespread due to its simplicity, availability of materials and ease of installation. In addition, in the cold attic there is access to inspect the load-bearing structures of the roof, so possible leaks are easily localized and eliminated with improvised means.

Rice. 1. Cold attic insulation system: 1. Floor beams 2. Stone wool insulation 3. Vapor barrier film 4. Superdiffusion membrane 5. Sparse lathing 6. Inner lathing

As the basis for the attic, wooden floor beams and reinforced concrete slabs are most often used. Depending on the material chosen for the ceiling of the residential floor, the insulation system will differ. Wood is one of the best building materials, which has a number of undeniable advantages: lightness, strength and flexibility. However, the wood is sensitive to moisture: waterlogged wood during operation can bend in an unpredictable way if it picks up moisture and then dries. Therefore, wet wood is not used in construction, and dry wood is carefully isolated from possible waterlogging during operation.

The ability of wood to absorb moisture affects the choice of all cold attic materials. So, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to a vapor-permeable material based on mineral wool: this material will pass all the wet steam through itself, leaving the beams dry. When choosing between glass wool and stone wool, one should remember the ability of the latter to protect the entire structure from the effects of open fire. The sintering temperature of glass wool fibers is only about 600 °C, and this temperature is reached already 5 minutes after the start of ignition. Therefore, only stone wool is able to protect load-bearing structures, extend the life of the house and, in case of fire, give more time to save people and property.

Here it is worth recalling that any organic heaters (foam plastics, polyurethanes) burn, so it is better not to use them when building a wooden or frame house. The burning of some of them is also accompanied by the release of toxic vapors into the atmosphere, the "splashing" of the melt, which poses an additional danger to people. The use of organic insulation in the floor construction requires mandatory protection with a cement-sand screed.

Many questions in the insulation system are caused by the use of various building films. Due to their incorrect location in the structure, the floor beams can begin to rot, which is why they subsequently lose their bearing capacity and collapse after a few years. To prevent this, when arranging a classic cold attic with wooden beams, it is customary to use two types of building films, which we will conditionally call “Internal” and “External”.

The “internal” film is laid from the inside of the heated room and prevents water vapor from entering the insulation from the room. Such a film is called a vapor barrier. When installing it, it is necessary to carefully glue all overlaps with butyl rubber tape, achieving tightness over the entire area. Interior decoration is carried out with a technical gap of at least 3 cm - to prevent local condensation of moisture on the vapor barrier.

Rice. 2.1. Cold attic ventilation scheme

The “external” film performs other tasks: it protects the insulation from moisture from the outside (snow, rain, fog), allows water vapor to escape from the system (if it suddenly appears there) and prevents heat from blowing out of the insulation. Some of these functions can be entrusted to ordinary plastic wrap, but it will not work to complete all the tasks at the same time. Most films either have low vapor permeability - and therefore must be installed with a second ventilation gap, or low water resistance - and therefore do not protect against water ingress into the insulation. The only type of film capable of solving all the tasks at the same time is called the "superdiffusion membrane". Such a membrane has a vapor permeability that significantly exceeds the parameters of the insulation, which allows it to be mounted close to it. And high water resistance allows you to protect the system from the ingress of external moisture in any form.

Thus, the insulation must be protected by a vapor barrier film from the inside and a superdiffusion membrane from the outside. It is good practice to lay a sparse lath of boards on top of the "top" membrane to prevent damage to the film or crushing of the insulation when walking in the attic.

Figure 2.2 Consequences of lack of ventilation (1 year, Minsk region)

Figure 2.2 Consequences of lack of ventilation (1 year, Minsk region)

Concluding the consideration of the design of a cold attic, it is imperative to pay attention to the issue of ventilation. A properly organized roof ventilation system (Fig. 2.1), despite the possible variety of designs, must have three mandatory components: an entry point, ventilation channels and an exit point. The channel for ventilation in a cold attic will be its entire volume. For normal operation, the temperature inside the cold attic must be equal to the street. For these purposes, the filing provides entry points for cold air - the so-called "vents". And in the upper part of the attic, you need to make air outlets with the help of dormer windows, ridge or point aerators.

Most often, in practice, one has to deal with a situation where the ventilation is disturbed: all the vents are filled with insulation, and the air from the street does not get inside. The second common mistake is the lack of dormer windows or aerators in the roofing. When arranging ventilation, it is worth remembering that the area of ​​​​the outlet openings should be 10% larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inlet openings. In this case, sufficient traction will be created. If the ventilation of the roof is broken, then the truss system is subjected to waterlogging, and the roofing material is subjected to additional overpressure from inside the room. This can lead to rotting of the truss system and loss of its bearing capacity (Fig. 2.2.), Premature destruction of the roofing. Therefore, effective ventilation is a prerequisite for the normal operation of a cold attic system.

In the case of installing a cold attic on a base of reinforced concrete slabs, the system can be simplified. Since reinforced concrete is vapor-tight and is not afraid of exposure to open fire, insulation can be made from organic materials. Here you have to choose from two types of polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foams are increasingly appearing on objects, but the sprayed compositions do not always have the declared stable properties after solidification, and their strength is sometimes insufficient for the dynamic effects of a pedestrian load. The well-known granular expanded polystyrene (EPS) is still used in construction today. However, it has already been replaced by more modern extruded (extrusive) expanded polystyrene (XPS), which is characterized by lower thermal conductivity (which reduces the required insulation thickness by 25%), reduced water absorption by 5 times and increased strength. When arranging a cold attic on reinforced concrete slabs using XPS, there is no need to spend money on the purchase and installation of building films: the material endures all external influences, is not afraid of blowing and even soaking.

To determine the required thickness of thermal insulation, we will use the method, which is described in detail in TKP 45-2.04-43-2006 “Construction heat engineering. Building design standards. According to this document, the minimum requirements for the thermal resistance of the structure are established. For a roof, it is taken at least six, and is calculated by the ratio of the actual thickness of the construction material (in this case, thermal insulation) to its thermal conductivity. Thus, the answer to the question "How to insulate the roof of a house?" - obvious: the required thickness of the insulation is calculated by multiplying the thermal conductivity of the material by six. This simple math will allow you to create a cold attic that fully meets all applicable standards. For full insulation in our climate zone, 25 cm of stone wool will be required. And when using extruded polystyrene foam, 20 cm will be enough. In a similar way, you can calculate the required thicknesses of other heat-insulating materials. For comparison: to get a similar indicator by backfilling expanded clay - you need a layer more than half a meter thick!

In the next part, we will tell about the device and proper insulation of the attic (warm attic).

Text: Andrey Povarnitsyn

Insulation of the roof attic is a prerequisite, otherwise it will be uncomfortable to be in it: in winter it will be cold in it, and in summer it will be unbearably hot. Why do we need such an attic if it has unsuitable living conditions? If the attic is insulated, then you can spend the night in it and spend time with your family, for example, in the country, or simply store some things on it without fear that they will become unusable. The technology consists of the following stages.

First you need to arrange steam and waterproofing and ventilation of the roof. After all, without this it will be impossible to apply a layer of insulation in accordance with all the rules. should be applied with high quality, considering. It is applied from inside the attic so that in winter warm air, rising from the bottom up to the attic, does not harm the structure of the attic roof: it does not create mold and does not activate the process of rotting boards and damage to wood due to the penetration of microorganisms into it. prevents water from precipitation (snow, rain and hail) from entering the roof, protects against mechanical damage and other falling objects.

As a rule, foam plates with a thickness of 10-15 cm are used. The use of expanded polystyrene is characterized by several advantages, namely:

1. The insulation does not sag, and the attic looks beautiful.
2. Tight fit of foam boards.
3. The heater does not delaminate.
4. The attic space retains its insulating functions.

The attic insulation process is divided into 2 stages:

1. Wall insulation.
2. Warming slopes.

Walls must be insulated both from the inside and outside. When insulating slopes, a frame is used, which is insulated with polystyrene foam. Also, the frame is subject to waterproofing and vapor barrier. Styrofoam is a heater that does not allow moisture to pass through the roof, which by itself is good for roof insulation (attic floor). Even if there is a crack in the foam, it still protects the roof well from moisture getting into it, but still you should not take risks and allow damage to the foam and mechanical damage in it.

Features of thermal insulation of the attic

The process of insulating the attic roof of the attic space is carried out according to the following scheme. The first is to properly install the vapor barrier and waterproofing. The second rule is that it is necessary to insulate the entire room with foam plastic, and not its individual parts, because it is complete insulation that will give the result, and partial insulation may be completely useless. The third rule: if there is no ventilation, then the ingress of condensate can aggravate the situation and not give the desired result from the roof attic insulation process. Insulation for the attic can be like this:

1. Mineral wool for the attic is the most common and effective material for attic insulation. Either mineral slabs or mats are made from cotton wool.
2. Vapor barrier films - overlapped and sealed with adhesive tape. Vapor barrier is an important condition necessary before the process of insulation.
3. Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene, polyurethane foam and other bulk insulation.
4. Penoplex is ideal for an attic space.

There are many materials for insulation, the choice is large, for every taste and budget, but it is worth considering all the individual characteristics of the attic, opportunities and other factors. The main thing in this matter is to approach the process correctly. And then the house will serve you for many years - it does not matter if it is a cottage or a dwelling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OND8d5LNeQ Attic insulation should be given more attention than insulation of the house itself, since the attic is protection from the outside from all unpleasant atmospheric factors.

Moiseenko Zoryana: Need expert advice. We have a two-story house with a gable roof. The ceiling of the second floor was insulated with mineral wool. Do I need to insulate the attic from the inside (non-residential attic): gables, the roof itself (material - metal tiles)? Will the cost of insulating the attic be justified or is it enough to insulate the ceiling of the second floor? I mean the heat loss will obviously be less? If it is worth warming up, I will be grateful for a detailed answer, with what and how. Thank you in advance.

The right decision in this situation would be to leave the attic itself without insulation and heating. Such an action will allow you to get much more pluses than minuses. Let's take a closer look at why you should not lay a second layer of insulation.

Firstly, you significantly save on materials and work, which in itself is a fairly weighty argument during construction or reconstruction. You can build indefinitely and pour almost unlimited amounts into the construction site, but this is not always justified.

Secondly, you get a buffer space that will work for the benefit of your home both in summer and winter.

If your unheated attic has ducts for air circulation and special ventilation holes under the ridge and on the roof slopes, then this will favorably affect the microclimate of the whole house.

Such a space protects against excessive overheating of the building in the summer heat and reduces heat loss in the winter cold, subject to the technology of insulating the ceiling of the 2nd floor.

Of the minuses of such a solution, one can single out the need for mandatory insulation of ventilation ducts and a fan pipe, a special technology for laying steam and waterproofing to prevent the accumulation of condensate and ice. By the way, metal tile is an ideal material for a cold attic. In combination with a snow guard on the roof, you can count on comfortable living at any time of the year.

As for insulation, there are currently many options, however, the most common and successful option in terms of price \ quality \ characteristics is stone wool in slabs (ROCKWOOL).

When laying them, you should definitely calculate the required thickness in your strip. It is better to take the thickness with a margin, laying the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that there are no cold bridges in the insulation layer. Also a very important point is the presence of a vapor barrier to keep the heat-insulating material in the correct humidity parameters.

If you insulate the second floor well enough, protect the ventilation systems from freezing, provide for the possibility of air circulation in the attic space and perform operations to remove excess moisture from the roof, you can enjoy comfortable living for many years.