Warm corner in panel houses. Framed wall corner

With the outward simplicity of the question "How to properly assemble the corner?" the answer will not be so clear cut. The simplest solution (choose a reliable beam with a section of 150 x 150 mm) is wrong. This will create a risk of freezing corners in winter. For frame houses There are 3 options available, each with its own pros and cons. Let's see what are:

Option 1. The corner of the frame wall of 4 boards

The corner of adjacent frame walls is assembled from 4 boards. Three racks knocked together do not differ from the solution with a beam, so the pros and cons are obvious. The high strength of such a connection is combined with the risk of corner freezing. There is a place to fix drywall. You can reduce the risk of freezing if you put together a corner post not from 3 boards, but two with spacers from pieces (blocks). Mineral wool is laid in the gap between the racks.

Option 2. The corner of the frame wall of three boards 50 x 150 mm

The corner is assembled according to the 2 + 1 scheme, that is, we nail an additional rack to one of the extreme racks, turning it at 90 degrees. It turns out a pretty strong connection and there is a shelf for screwing drywall internal walls. Obvious advantages: the insulation of the corner is carried out during the internal frame house. Also, low-quality boards can be used for an additional rack, since in this node the rack acts as a shelf for attaching drywall and does not carry a significant structural load.

Option 3. Angle of a frame wall of four boards: 3 (50 x 150 mm) +1 (50 x 100 mm)

The appearance of an additional fourth board with a section of 50 x 150 mm strengthens the structure, which is a plus, but this corner must be insulated in a timely manner. Moreover, this must be done before the appearance of the outer skin.

We knock together two racks at an angle or parallel to each other with five black nails 90 mm long, maximum step between nails 600 mm. Indent from the edge to the first nail from either end of the uprights 150 mm.

Prefabricated houses are attractive because with a ready foundation, you can put the house itself very quickly. For example, building a frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly takes place step by step: regular repetition simple actions. It is only important to know how to properly assemble each node. Having instructions, understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.

No less attractive frame construction what can be done minimal cost. How much money is needed for the construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and grade of wood, Decoration Materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more moment. Many are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is that it is possible, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. Wintering options are also possible in the following form:

• foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
• foundation + frame + roof + outer skin OSB + wind protection;
• foundation + frame + roof + OSB outer skin + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

With windows and doors, it is dangerous to leave unattended for the winter. In other options, the delay in completion of construction is even good: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already mounted part.

After pouring the piles, a (grillage) is installed, reinforcement is laid and knitted into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement protrusions from piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert segments plastic pipes across the tape).

A strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation tape. For its installation, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. 30 cm recede from each corner in both directions. Here the studs are required, the rest, depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Keep in mind that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. Therefore, it is better to put more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there should be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gain strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (see photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within + 20 ° C, after about 3-5 days, construction can continue. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with him freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at + 17 ° C, you need to wait for about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom rail and floor

In order for the wood of the frame not to draw moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The safest thing to do is bituminous mastic. And better - in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. Cheaper roofing material, but it breaks down over time. More reliable hydroisol or other similar modern material.

You can smear the grillage once with mastic, and roll out the waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer it is The groundwater, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

First layer - liquid waterproofing, Until it dries, you can glue a layer of roll on it

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. AT necessary places holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the junction of the first row. It turns out a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, one beam of 100-150 cm can be laid, but its price is much higher than two boards, which in total give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a greater bearing capacity though it takes more time to put them together. In order for them to work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We put the harness and lags

The next stage is the installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, placed on edge. They are fastened with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the strapping board, two nails to the right and left to the bed. So each lag on both sides.

The photo shows that the first lag is installed close to the second - this way the load on the foundation is better transferred. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the span length and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long, and there is a transverse beam, as in the photo above, so that the logs do not “leave” over transverse beam jumpers are stuffed. They are equal in length to the lag installation step minus twice the board thickness: if the lag step is 55 cm, the board thickness is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring is mounted, it's time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways different materials. We will show an economical option - with foam polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more is possible, less is not). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (shift).

To begin with, a 50 * 50 mm cranial bar is stuffed along the lower edge of the lag. It will hold the foam.

Styrofoam is cut with a regular hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on wood - it is cut faster, but a torn edge is obtained, or on metal - it goes more slowly, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are stacked in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they are glued around the perimeter with a sealant - to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay a draft floor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). So that the rough flooring from the boards does not warp, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to either look up or down (see photo).

You can do without flooring from the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be stacked in a run - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between plywood sheets to compensate for dimensional changes with changes in humidity.

Plywood is attached to self-tapping screws 35 mm long (white is better - less marriage) around the perimeter in 12 cm increments, inside in a checkerboard pattern in 40 cm increments.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part - depending on the size) on the floor, then it is lifted, exposed and fixed. Sometimes, with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are attached directly to the floor from the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-shield or "platform". Factories mainly work according to this principle: they build ready-made shields according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only mount them there. But frame-panel housing construction is possible with your own hands.

The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The beam of the lower trim is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate ones, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology called frame housing construction" or "balloon".

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract assistants. Working on the floor is faster and more comfortable than jumping up/down the ladder countless times. But if the section is assembled large, then it will be difficult to lift it even with two people. The way out is either to call assistants, or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and section of racks

Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner ones, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, gaps and crevices through which heat will escape - too. The density of installation of insulation in the frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Racks can be fastened in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the lower trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: long dowels are cut out, a hole is drilled obliquely through the rack and the beam of the lower trim, a wooden spike is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood is used dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

By Canadian technology the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore, the support should be more powerful.

Reinforced racks near windows and doors are a must. Only in this way will a frame house built with your own hands be reliable.

Bevels or braces

If the outer skin is planned from board material high strength - OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood - cuttings are temporary and from the inside of the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required structural rigidity.

If the lining is planned to be type-setting - from lining, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. And the best way- not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Pay attention, in the photo above, the racks are prefabricated: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have an even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones, and cost less. This is real way reduce construction costs without sacrificing quality. But the time for construction increases: a lot of nails have to be hammered.

Frame house corners

Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a beam in a corner, then there seems to be no difficulties, except for the fact that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winter this is not a problem, but middle lane Russia needs some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.

After assembling the frame, most often it is sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Overlay

The floor beams are supported by the upper trim beam. There are several mounting methods:

• on supporting steel brackets;
• to the corners;
• with inset;

Notching - the depth of cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. From above it is clogged with two nails, which must enter the harness by at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily Perforated staples - the shape may be different

The dimensions of the beams, the step of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the section is taken more, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and the attic are supposed to be non-residential from above, these are completely different calculations and sizes.

If the second floor is being completed, the ceiling is sheathed with a draft floor of the second floor. So it will be easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only because all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project for frame technology the most popular are or . Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only limitation is the weight roofing: it should be a lightweight material, the load of which can withstand wooden beams and overlays.

Temporary braces were used to fix the rafters in a predetermined position before the crate was stuffed.

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Warming

You can insulate a frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in rolls or mats. different density. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the bursting force. For this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm more distance between the frame posts. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good soundproofing. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is closed with a layer vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

From the side of the street, thermal insulation from mineral wool it is closed with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-proof vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown through, from the side of the street it does not allow moisture in the liquid and gaseous state to pass through, and vapors can escape from the insulation: the vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only Finishing work. Actually, everything, construction is over.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detailing of some processes is far from complete, but you have the general assembly sequence. Perhaps more videos from a professional carpenter who has been building frame houses for decades will help you (see below).

Video instructions for the installation of frame houses

These are three videos of the excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each one is over an hour long. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to this instruction independent construction possible without questions: all stages of the construction of a frame house and the little things are commented and explained, up to what nails, what length, how many pieces with what step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for their correction. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clear to you.

The first part is the bottom harness and the floor.

The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is the construction of the roof of the frame house.

If you are still in doubt about whether to build a frame house, it is probably because you have heard that it is bad technology that it doesn't work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are placed from a dry forest, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood is brought from the sawmill almost natural humidity, and this is up to 60%. Because the house leads and twists, they become cold.

But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? It is expensive for chamber drying, the difference per cube is very decent - almost twice. But by folding the wood on the site in ventilated stacks, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% in a year. Whether or not to impregnate with bioprotection before drying, you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but it is desirable to impregnate it with bioprotection from insects.

An example of such an opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...

To date, the construction of frame houses has become widespread. However, despite the simplicity and convenience of erecting such a structure, there are many errors during construction that can significantly affect the quality of the finished structure. In particular, there is a lot of controversy about the "right" and "wrong" angles in a frame structure. Let's figure out how to assemble the corners of the frame walls.

From four boards

In this option, the space of adjacent frame walls is assembled from 4 boards. Thus, high reliability connections, there is a place for fixing drywall for subsequent wall decoration. However, along with this, there is a risk of freezing space.

This phenomenon can be prevented by building a rack of 2 boards with special spacers from separate blocks, and insulating the space between the racks with mineral wool.

Of three boards 50x150 mm

The assembly scheme of such an angle can be called "2 + 1". In accordance with it, another, additional, rotated 90 degrees is attached to one rear rack. The result is a strong and secure joint, as well as a drywall fixing shelf for interior walls. Thus, during the interior decoration of the house, it turns out to collect an additional insulating layer. In addition, this is a fairly budget option, since you can use inexpensive boards of medium quality for work: they do not carry a significant load.

Of the four boards 3 (50x150 mm) and 1 (50x100 mm)

It is necessary to connect 2 racks, which are located parallel to each other or at an angle, using 5 nails of 9 cm. The maximum allowable distance between nails is 6 cm. The indent from the first hammered nail to the edge at any end should be approximately 1.5 cm. Due to the fact that the design assumes the presence of a fourth board measuring 50x150 mm, additional gain angle. But this does not eliminate the need for insulation of corners.

These are far from all the design options for corners in a frame house. There are at least 10 more types of schemes for such work, but some of them are outdated. List some more relevant and effective ways.

"Canadian"

It has such a name because it is suitable only for those houses whose frame does not imply the presence of crossbars that support the strapping from above. This means that it is not suitable for "Finnish" frames, where the walls are made with a crossbar. Also requires additional insulation due to the difference in thickness at the corner.

The essence of the method: after the walls are installed, aligned and fixed, in a corner outer wall another stand is placed. It is important that it rests against the end post of its wall (does not “float”) and flat against the end post of the docked wall. It is necessary to fasten the structure with ordinary nails that are suitable in size.

This method provides the corner with additional rigidity and resistance to large vertical loads. Also, this method involves a protrusion of about 5 cm, which is necessary for subsequent interior decoration.

"California"

This is the most common option for fixing corners in a frame house: with inside an additional board or OSB strip is attached to the extreme wall post. Thus, a so-called shelf is obtained, which subsequently acts as a support for the interior decoration of the wall.

"Scandinavian"

This corner design is quite rare. For example, in the cities of America they don’t use it at all, but they are actively used in the Scandinavian countries, thanks to which the corner got its name. Nevertheless, it has its advantages: the "Scandinavian" corner is the warmest of all the others, the nodes are completely devoid of any cold bridges, while the rigidity of the structure is preserved.

Warming is carried out outside. This option is great for use in the northern regions of the country.

"Closed"

The scheme of this design also involves the creation of an additional rack for the shelf on the inner corner. This option carries high-quality insulation space. However, insulation can only be done from the outside. Therefore, it will be possible to carry out such work only to complete the cladding of the facade of the house.

You can choose any of the listed options and be sure of a successful result.

When building a frame house, many builders do not recommend making corners from timber or round log, in connection with which a lot of myths and questions arise. However, the answer to the question of whether it is possible to use a beam to build a corner in a frame house is unambiguous - it is possible, but irrational.

If you decide to make a corner out of a bar, then you will get the coldest design of all those listed, which will not even be able to be additionally insulated. Also, in the corner structure there are no necessary “shelves”, which would later serve as the basis for fixing the interior decoration, therefore, there is a high risk of freezing and heat loss at home during the cold season.

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Classmates

Frame house one of the most affordable and budget options suburban construction.

But as soon as it is laid down, an equally important stage begins: a device that has its own characteristics in such buildings.

They must be studied before starting. construction works to avoid in the near future overhaul the whole structure.

For frame house frame wall structures have only two types:

1. Carriers, which have increased resistance to impacts and mechanical loads: both vertical and horizontal. They are usually made from a solid board or giant I-beams. doorways in bearing walls ah are assembled using at least 2 jumpers, fastened with nails in 2 rows, which avoids their deformation.
2. Non-bearing (internal), which serve as partitions for dividing the building into rooms and are not designed to withstand the weight of the building. Lintels over doorways in such cases should have a width equal to the width uprights, and be made of material with a thickness of more than 40 mm.

Reference! Internal partitions designed for zoning living space are often made of 40x100 timber, since they do not need a thick layer of insulation. For load-bearing walls, materials with a cross section of at least 50x150, and preferably 50x250, are taken in order to be able to increase the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

materials

What material are the walls of frame houses made of? If you have chosen frame houses for your housing: wall material can be completely different.

It is determined not only by aesthetic properties, but also by the ability to withstand certain loads, climatic and relief features of the site, weight and other characteristics.

For the device of wooden frame walls and partitions, they mainly use:

1. wooden beam made from wood conifers or maple. Its cross section has square shape, a standard size is 150x150. More thick timber(150x200 and 200x200) is ideal for multi-storey buildings or houses with an attic.
2. Edged board from coniferous wood. The cross section of the racks is usually 50x150.
3. Wooden I-beam, which is two timber beams fastened with a jumper from OSB-plate. It allows you to freely adjust the shelves depending on the thickness of the insulation and the size of the foundation. According to experts, the use of such a material minimizes the risk of deformation of the frame during shrinkage of the structure and provides better thermal insulation.
4. Materials for outdoor and inner lining frame. They are treated as standard wooden planks, and prefabricated panel-type structures made of OSB-boards, hydrophobic plywood or boards. And the use of magnesite sheets is also allowed. At the same time, it is important that the materials are well dried and there are no cracks and defects in them, which can later cause shrinkage and destruction of the house. As an antifungal protection, they must be treated with special antiseptic compounds.
5. . They are soft - insulation based on fiberglass, basalt wool - and hard - polystyrene foam and its extruded modification - type.
6. Decoration Materials. These include vinyl and metal siding. The latter is characterized by increased strength, easy installation and high corrosion resistance. Vinyl siding attracts less weight and a large selection of colors, but is afraid of temperature changes and direct sunlight. And also a block house is often used (calibrated boards with an oval transverse profile and lock connection, which outwardly completely resemble a rounded log) and imitation of a bar (panels with a rectangular section and beveled corners). Frame houses with finishing by means of artificial stone, acrylic coatings and decorative plaster.
7. designed to protect the house from blowing and moisture. She looks like roll material, resembling a film, but at the same time vapor-permeable to prevent freezing of the insulation in the wall in the winter season. Mostly for these purposes, they buy a diffusion membrane for waterproofing.
8. vapor barrier, which is used as a vapor barrier membrane.

Reference! According to one of the innovative technologies, the supporting frame of the building is completely made of galvanized thermal profile, and internal insulation is shotcrete concrete or foam concrete. This makes it easy to build a solid and secure home with the number of floors from 1 to 5.

Technology

Frame house can be built different ways, since at present there are several effective technologies building its walls. The most popular among them are: the construction of the wall of a frame house according to Finnish technology and Canadian. Their differences lie in the fact that, in accordance with the Scandinavian method, wall panels are assembled right at the construction site, but building technology from Canada, they suggest mounting a frame from ready-made SIP panels (frame-panel technology).

Finnish

Finnish looks in the following way:

1. A frame made of timber is mounted on it, after which it is assembled.
2. Panels are assembled, for which OSB-plates are used, with which the spans of walls are sheathed both from the inside and “from the street”.
3. A heat-insulating layer is installed, after which a draft floor is laid on the floor.
4. The main components of the structure are interconnected with metal brackets and beams are installed floors.
5. On the interfloor ceiling, the wall panels of the second floor are assembled and installed vertically.
6. Roof rafters are mounted, a waterproofing layer is fixed on them and the roof is laid.
7. Perform interior and exterior finishing work.

Canadian

When designing a building according to Canadian technology, the work algorithm is as follows:

1. Poured strip foundation on which panels and floor beams are mounted.
2. Bars are placed in the gaps, which are interconnected, and the gaps are isolated using polyurethane foam.
3. After installing the ceiling, the walls are installed, starting from the corners. AT two-storey houses installation of interfloor ceilings and walls of the second floor is being carried out. In this case, the panels are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm. All joints are securely sealed with mounting foam. Fastening is carried out according to the tenon-groove principle, and the thermal gap between the wall panels is 3-5 mm. At the same time, window and door openings are made.
4. The final stage is the installation of the roof.

Device

What is the wall of a frame house made of?

No matter how exquisite the design of your frame house, and what expensive materials have not been used the design of the frame wall with insulation, especially the load-bearing one, will be almost identical.

It is multi-layered and is called a “sandwich” or “pie” in construction jargon.

So, the frame wall: the design consists of layers:

1. Frame directly.
2. Internal finishing layer.
3. vapor barrier layer.
4. Insulation.
5. waterproof layer.
6. OSB boards.
7. Outdoor decorative finishes.

Important! It is much easier to make the internal partitions of the building: the frame wall scheme contains only frame racks, a heat-insulating layer, a vapor barrier membrane installed on both sides, and drywall or OSB-board.

Proper Pie frame wall can be very different and depends both on the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner, and on external conditions and internal loads to which the building will be exposed. Consider the arrangement of the walls of a frame house in detail. The most common options are:

1. Frame wall cake with mineral wool. The right frame house wall cake with mineral wool is ideal for buildings in which there should be good sound insulation. To do this, the wall frame from the outside is sheathed with chipboard and lined outside. waterproofing film. Mineral wool is attached on top of it, which can be supplemented with extruded polystyrene foam. A vapor barrier membrane layer is installed on top of the thermal insulation layer (from the inside): it is fixed with a stapler. Then a crate is mounted to better hold the heat-insulating layer and produced final finishing walls. It is important that moisture does not penetrate deep into the wall, as this will lead to the loss of mineral wool, which has an increased hygroscopicity, of its insulating properties.
2. Frame house wall pie with ecowool. It is considered the safest for human health, since ecowool is completely safe and provides breathability inside the wall, preventing condensation. This insulation is lightweight and has excellent heat-shielding properties. The “pie” itself consists of the following layers: an inner finishing layer, a vapor barrier film, frame elements, ecowool (it is evenly blown over the entire surface of the wall, which avoids joints, as in the case of other heaters, and the penetration of cold into the house), a windproof membrane and the outer finishing layer, which separates the ventilation gap from the previous one.
3. Pie wall of a frame house with basalt insulation. This is an expensive solution, however, basalt wool not only has good heat and soundproof properties but also resistant to vibration, mold and fungus. The composition of the frame wall in this case will be standard: interior decoration, vapor barrier, frame construction, basalt filler, windproof membrane and exterior finishes.
4. Frame wall pie with OSB (or OSB). Such plates are used to give the walls greater rigidity and stability. The classic arrangement of layers, which provides optimal moisture removal and "breathing" properties, looks like this: interior finish, vapor barrier layer, insulation (mineral wool or other), frame racks, OSB-plate, windproof layer, ventilation gap, exterior finish.
5. "Pie" with Isoplat panels. Recent times they are very popular among builders, because they reliably protect the wall from moisture penetration, are additional protection from the cold and completely replace the wind and water protection. In a frame house, the layers of walls are arranged as follows: interior decoration, vapor barrier film, heat-insulating layer, frame racks, Isoplat panels, lathing, external finishing.
6. "Pie" according to the EIFS system. The structural elements of the building frame often become a kind of "bridges" of cold, which requires additional - the formation of a polystyrene foam cocoon from their outside. The composition of the frame house wall in this case will be as follows: interior decoration, vapor barrier, frame layer with mesh, rigid polystyrene boards PSB-S 25F, wind protection and exterior finish layer.

Important! In the above variants of the "pie" wind protection layer is understood as a layer consisting of waterproofing and wind protection. Since there must be a waterproofing layer outside the wall, which protects the insulation from external moisture.

Drawings, diagrams and sections

If you are going to build a frame structure yourself, you can’t do without a detailed drawing, which will also indicate the frame wall in the section.

This will allow you to clearly imagine the location and installation order of all load-bearing structures and internal partitions and avoid the most common mistakes.

Important! The drawings clearly indicate not only the connection options structural elements among themselves, but also schemes for laying engineering communications.

Largely modern drawings of the walls of a frame house are made in specialized computer programs , where parameters such as type and are entered, the location of load-bearing walls and partitions, the number of rooms, external parameters such as humidity, soil type, average temperature in the area, etc.

The scheme and structure of the wall of a frame house necessarily contains the following:

1. Type of wall and its dimensions.
2. The nuances of the structural connection of the walls to each other, as well as to the floor and roof.
3. Location of windows and doorways.
4. The sequence of layers (thermal insulation, vapor barrier, etc.), their thickness, installation features and the type of materials for each of them.

Knots

What is a frame house wall knot?

Wall frame structure consists of the following nodes, the nuances of which you should know:

1. Adjoining the wall to the floor in a frame house. The frame posts of the wall must be nailed with 3 nails measuring 90 mm, and this is done through the post in the log. This applies to load-bearing structures. If the wall is located on the strapping of the log or lintel, then the third nail is hammered into them. In the case of partitions, one 90 mm nail driven into each joist is enough.

2. Joining the walls of a frame house. To ensure a reliable connection of frame walls - connect the side and facade wall buildings, in the side frame it is necessary to make an additional stand, deployed perpendicular to the corner stand frame structure located on the edge. This will allow you to correctly form inner corner and simplify the process of finishing with plywood or OSB-boards.

3. The corner of the frame wall. Simply connecting the bars with a section of 150x150 (or boards with a section of 50x150) in the corner is fraught with its freezing in winter time. Therefore, the corner is made according to the 2 + 1 scheme. A third one is nailed to one of the extreme racks of the frame structure, which is turned at 90 degrees. You can also strengthen the structure by adding a fourth board.

Two racks are connected parallel to each other or at a slight angle using 5 90 mm nails with a distance of 6 cm between them. Before finishing the corner, it is imperative to put a heater.

4. Ukosina. This is one of the most important elements walls, which gives it spatial rigidity and avoids distortions in the structure. They are cut into both the lower and top harness strictly at an angle not exceeding 45-60 degrees. They must be used if sheathing of house panels with plywood or OSB boards is not planned. It can be wooden with a section of 25x100, 50x150 or metal.

5. Window and door openings.

Important! In Canadian and Finnish technology, they are amplified a little differently, so these nuances should be taken into account.

In Canadian technology, double racks are used to create them. Under and above the opening, shortened posts are mounted, the distance between which remains the same as between the main posts. A header is placed above the opening, made of a double or triple board 10-25 cm high, depending on the width of the opening and the beam load. Also mounted under the opening horizontal boards, cutting the additional rack in half: they will support the weight of the window.

In the case of doorways or the use of Finnish technology, instead of a header, a crossbar is installed - a board placed on an edge that crashes in front of bottom harness at the very top of the frame racks, both inside and outside. The crossbar can be either single or triple. For him, take boards measuring 50x200 mm.

6. Connection of wall and roof. Racks are mounted strictly perpendicular to the wall, but can be parallel in partitions or on the gable of the roof. The beams must be monolithic, and at least 2 racks should be placed in the outer corners of the wall frame.

7. Connection of wall and floor. Shown above in the figure to point 1.

A photo

Sectional wall of a frame house: photos are presented below.

Useful video

How to make a frame wall cake is additionally described in the video below:

findings

Arranging the wall of a frame house is a rather important and painstaking process, but if you want and want to learn and take into account any nuances, even a non-professional builder can handle it without any problems.

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