Sheathing of walls with a board overlap horizontally. Facade board for exterior decoration of the house

Today, natural materials are becoming popular again, not only for construction, but also for house cladding. One of these materials is wood, which is not only environmentally friendly, but also gives the structure an unusually attractive appearance. Sheathing at home can be done using different techniques, but the edged board, overlapped, looks best. This option is usually used when a low building, a country house in country style, is being finished. After sheathing, the board can be varnished, painted, impregnated with special oils in order to maintain its original appearance.

The process itself, how to sheathe a house with a do-it-yourself edged board, is not so complicated, but it is necessary to strictly observe all the conditions and stages, use high-quality boards, special additional elements in the form of corners. For work, a board of two types and corner elements are used. The inner one acts as a frame, the corners are mounted for the inner and outer parts of the facade. The outer board will be front.

Installation of the inner board

Covering the house with a board is carried out according to pre-compiled marks, a frame is required for fastening the outer board. During operation, it is recommended to use an ordinary hammer; a special nail gun is not used. It is this feature that makes the work of cladding a house with wood so long, requiring patience.

If self-tapping screws are used to fasten the inner board, then you can purchase a screwdriver. This will speed up the work, make it better, but the inner row will still have to be fixed with nails, they should have a length of 80 mm. Before you start fixing the board, you must first treat it with an antiseptic and dry it. After that, each element is cut to obtain the required length. The front side of the board is placed outward, the bend should be directed upwards.

Installation of the outer board

After all the inner boards are installed, it is necessary to proceed with the fasteners of the outer ones. How to do it right?

Installation is carried out in an overlap, while each previous one should be laid on an adjacent board with an approach of 250 mm.

An overlap is pre-marked on each board so that the work goes quickly and efficiently. When drying, the material may be slightly deformed. Therefore, at the time of purchase, it is best to use well-dried wood.

Tools for work:

• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• a hammer;
• ruler and building level.

During the exterior cladding of the house, it is necessary to use a building level so that the surface of the facade finish is smooth and beautiful.

There are many options for fastening an external edged board:

1. In rustic, with the lower end parts protruding at an angle, the groove is made at the bottom.
2. With a bevel in the groove. A complex profile is used, the outer skin is beautiful and stylish, the thickness of the board is significant.
3. In semi-rustic. The surface of the wall is smooth with small triangular grooves, the board is cut at an angle, the groove connection is not used, the overlap is angular.
4. With a slope in a quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth, a complex profile is used for connection
5. Straight quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth and beautiful, the board is laid firmly and tightly, moisture does not get any opportunity to flow under the skin. Grooves for fasteners are cut at a right angle, the connection is one of the most reliable and simple.
6. Into the tongue. To lay the board, a tongue and groove connection is used, it is important to cut the grooves using a template. Otherwise, a reliable connection will not work. The facade has a smooth and beautiful surface, moisture does not flow into the wall, drafts will not bother you, as well as heat loss.
7. Glue mounting. The board is glued, there is no overlap.

When sheathing a house with a wooden board, experts advise following certain rules that will ensure a beautiful and durable finish:

1. For work, it is best to take a board that is planed on one side and not on the other. The rough side of the material is mounted outward. Then the primer, and then the paint, will hold much better and longer, and the appearance of the house will turn out to be more attractive.
2. Boards do not need to be nailed only at the bottom and top, as the material will easily split and absorb moisture. It is necessary to use the fastening option staggered, when the boards are fixed on the surface of the facade with a step of 30-45 cm, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern.
3. For cladding the house, you can use wood of various species. It can be cedar, pine, spruce, mahogany. Based on their experience, it is best to use cedar boards. They are not only durable, but also easy to process and have a beautiful appearance. Mahogany is difficult to process, it is difficult to drive a nail into the surface, although it does not warp over time. Pine has many useful properties, but for external use it is not very good, as it easily warps and splits. Spruce is rarely used for outdoor facade work, although its performance is much better than that of pine. Spruce boards are replete with knots, and this does not affect the quality in the best way.
4. Sheathing a house is best done with ordinary steel nails, not galvanized ones. The problem is that the galvanized layer is easily peeled off during installation, and under the influence of moisture, the nails quickly rust. Stainless steel is much more expensive, but the quality of the finish is higher.

Today, a fairly large number of different materials are used for cladding the facade of private houses. Even the simplest materials, with the right approach, can decorate the facade of any design.

Boards can be used as house cladding, only during installation they must be coated with sealant at the joints.

One of these materials is unedged board, which has uncut edges. Such elements are able to give the facade of the structure excellent properties, creating a unique design. Today, sheathing is not only unedged, but also other types of boards.

How to clad a house with an unedged board?

Elements that will be needed for sheathing a private house:

Lumber: a - two-edged timber; b - three-edged timber; c - four-edged timber; g - unedged board; d - clean-edged board; e - edged board with a blunt wane; g - edged board with a sharp wane; h - bar; and - slab croaker; to - boardwalk; l - unedged sleeper; m - edged sleeper; 1 - face; 2 - edge; 3 - rib; 4 - butt.

1. Bar.
2. Unedged board 30 cm wide of northern tree species.
3. Mastic.
4. Silicone sealant.
5. Deep penetration primer.
6. Nails.
7. Tassel.
8. Putty knife.
9. Mineral wool.
10. Building level.
11. Dye.

For the external cladding of the structure, a beam is used, which is nailed over unedged boards in increments of approximately 1.5 m. The beams should also be used at the corners of the building. The fit of the boards to each other does not have to be perfect, because the existing gaps can be later covered with mastic or silicone sealant.

In most cases, unedged board has a thickness of 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm, but you can also find thicker ones - 30-75 mm. Today, on the building materials market, there are a fairly large number of various boards for sale, since wood facade decoration is performed quite often.

The front part of a private house made of unedged boards will create a unique play of light and shade, which can be obtained thanks to horizontal planking. In most cases, an unedged board 30 cm wide is used to finish the facade of a private house.

It is best for this work to choose northern tree species that have a beautiful texture and suitable density. Such trees include such species as Siberian larch or selected butt forest, which does not have any defects.

Choosing the right way to install such boards

During sheathing, an unedged board can be installed using the "overlap" method or placed close to each other. In terms of quality, such sheathing will not be inferior to siding. The second option is more difficult to perform, but it looks better.

In addition to aesthetic qualities, it is necessary to take into account the practicality of all house cladding methods. The "overlap" method is more suitable for finishing facade elements in terms of practicality. This sheathing method is resistant to moisture, but it must be remembered that in this case, the installation of an unedged board will need to be done on top of the waterproofing layer, while the ends of the elements are joined with the trimming “under the mustache”. In the end, all existing joints will need to be treated with silicone sealant.

If necessary, the board can be covered with a primer and installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

They will need to be nailed with the right side over the previous board. Nails are used as fasteners, which are driven in at the bottom. This method allows you to maintain the integrity of the structure in case the humidity level fluctuates.

The technology of boarding facade elements of a private house

Unedged boards have uneven edges, which can complicate the process of joining all the elements. However, this technology simplifies this process, so it is recommended to use it.

The technology is as follows:

Before installation, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect the material from moisture and various pests.

1. The boards are covered with a primer or a special coating for protection. Deep penetration primers are suitable for these works, which are used to prepare mineral coatings before plastering and painting. Priming compositions penetrate deep into the boards and act as a connecting element. As a result, it will be possible to increase the wear resistance of the base, reduce the environmental impact on the wooden coating, and increase the adhesion of adhesive mixtures and paints.
2. Waterproofing is installed on the walls. In this case, it is best to use coating type waterproofing. It is important not only to protect the walls, but also to waterproof the blind areas of a private house. Mastic should be applied to the walls with a brush. If gaps remain, you will need to pour the solution into them, and then remove the excess with a spatula.
3. After that, the waterproofing layer must dry so that the base is not sticky to the touch. It is recommended to apply 3 layers of waterproofing to avoid moisture ingress and the formation of fungus and mold in the building. If a similar problem nevertheless arises, then you will need to purchase special building materials to combat mold.
4. Next, a heater is installed. For the insulation of facade elements, mineral wool is most often used. It does not ignite, does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of frost.
5. The boards are fixed on top of the waterproofing with nails. To do this, you need to fill the wall of the board vertically, and then fix the horizontal elements on them, in the direction from the bottom up. The next layer is installed on the previous one with an overlap of 20 mm.
6. Sealant is applied to the joints of the boards. In this case, it is best to use polyurethane compounds. They have high elasticity and are able to withstand sprains and damage.
7. Next, the finish coat is applied. In most cases, varnish is used for this coating, which is applied with a brush.

How is the sheathing of the house with boards of other types?

This option for finishing the facade parts of the building is not the most economical. You should know that only specialists can perform high-quality boarding at home with boards.

The cladding of the facade of the house can be made in the form of a lining using flat or unhewn boards. Laying elements is overlapped. This can be done through the use of special boards in which there are tongue-and-groove or quarter joints. This type of cladding is used for finishing work on walls made of bricks or blocks.

This type of sheathing combines decorative and heat-insulating functions. The latter option is used in the case of warming "dry" method.

Sheathing the facade of a private house with boards: technology

Wood is a material of organic origin, as a result of which it rots in a humid environment. Therefore, the cladding of the facade with boards will need to be done with ventilation from the back. In order to create such ventilation, it is necessary to install a wooden crate on the wall.

When installing ventilated facades, a windproof film is used, which is laid as a heater or directly on the base of the wall.

In this way, it will be possible to prevent the weathering of fibrous insulation materials and provide additional heat resistance of the wall. Such a film will block water, but will not be able to prevent steam from escaping the building.

The gap for ventilation between the wall and the wooden sheathing should be 4-5 cm. An ascending air stream will form in it, which is able to remove moisture.

In the lower part of the facade, it will be necessary to provide gaps for free access of air, as well as its subsequent exit under the roof. From below, the holes can be closed with a metal mesh to protect against rodents.

The crate is made of wooden planks with a square or rectangular section.

To reduce water absorption, they need to be impregnated with an antiseptic and special compounds - impregnates.

If the cladding is performed without the use of insulation, then the frame planks must be filled vertically, observing a step of 50-60 cm. If the board is installed vertically, then a double frame must be made.

This can be done by installing horizontal bars on top of vertical ones. If the wall is uneven, then it must be leveled with impregnated plywood pads.

How to strengthen the facade of the boards with your own hands?

The tree will be exposed to environmental influences, so it will need to be protected. The wooden facade will need to be varnished, painted or treated with decorative impregnations. Before applying a protective coating, the wood will need to be coated with a flame retardant composition.

An exception can only be the case when the facade is painted with a special fire-fighting paint. This composition will prevent the boards from igniting even in case of prolonged contact with fire. Ventilated wooden facades will definitely need to be processed in a similar way.

Sheathing the facade of a private house with wood has a large number of advantages. But there is also a disadvantage, which is that the boards require a renewal of the protective surface every few years. If roads of tree species are used for cladding (for example, cedar or teak), then you can not think about the problem with subsequent painting. In addition, these types of wood will practically not be subjected to deformation over a long period of time. Today on the market you can find on sale a fairly large number of boards that have already been processed and painted.

Vertical wall cladding with unedged boards looks more beautiful in interior spaces. For external coatings, horizontal sheathing with unedged boards is most often used, which has an original appearance when fixed with an overlap. Combined cladding can decorate a building inside and out - all you need is diligence and imagination.

Finishing facade elements with wood using boards of various sections is carried out by carpenters and joiners. To sheathe a private house on your own, you need to have relevant work experience and a certain set of electrical tools.

People who own their own home are rarely indifferent to its appearance. This is especially true for wooden houses. Although a house built of high-quality wood can stand for hundreds of years without any protection, its facades darken over time and the building “gets old” right before our eyes, taking on the appearance of a village hut.

How to prevent these undesirable consequences? The simplest and most natural option is to finish the outer walls of the building with a facade board.

In a broad sense, a facade board can be called any molded material used for facade cladding.

There are a lot of such materials:

• lining;
• block house;
• timber imitation;
• planken;
• board made of WPC-composite;
• vinyl siding;
• metal siding;
• fiber cement siding.

The last three varieties are mainly used for sheathing frame houses and they are used not only to give the facade of the house an aesthetic appearance, but also as a means of protecting the insulation (located on the outside of the walls) from adverse atmospheric factors.

The wood panels listed above will also cope well with these tasks. To protect log and timber walls that do not need additional insulation, it is most often used a wooden facade board. It is a material related to the main material of the walls and, due to its ability to "breathe", does not interfere with their ventilation, which is important for the safety of any wooden structures.

Therefore, in this article we will consider exactly wooden facade materials.

Clapboard, block house and timber imitation

These are materials from the same line, differing only in cross-sectional shape and thickness.

Lining is a long and well-known type of facade cladding, familiar to almost every person. It is a board planed on one side with a thickness of 12 - 20 mm, depending on the profile and purpose. The lining board is equipped with a groove on one side and a spike on the other, which allow you to tightly connect adjacent boards, giving the sheathing some kind of tightness.

Modern types of panels of this type can have a different profile and, when sheathed, create surfaces from almost smooth to pronouncedly embossed.

Block house - the same lining, only with a rounded front surface, which, when sheathed, creates a very realistic impression that you have a wall of round logs in front of you.

Imitation of timber - this profile is formed by chamfering along the long side of the board, which, when mounted on the surface, creates the appearance of a wall made of timber. Double-sided lining is a material planed on both sides and is mainly used not for wall cladding, but for creating thin wooden partitions. The advantages and disadvantages of lining are determined by the material from which it is made - wood.

The advantages of the material include the following:

• ecological purity of the material;
• high heat-insulating and sound-proofing characteristics;
• aesthetic appearance, thanks to the wood texture;
• ease of installation;
• the possibility of repeated tinting of the facade in the desired color;
• relatively low cost.

The disadvantages are the same as the original material:

• high flammability, which is reduced by regular treatment of the material with fire retardants;
• low biological resistance - a predisposition to the formation of rot and damage by pests - is leveled by treatment with antiseptics;
• high water absorption, which can be reduced by applying varnish, but this reduces the environmental friendliness of the material and its ability to air exchange;
• dense sheathing can warp due to exposure to moisture and temperature changes, which spoils the appearance of the facade.

Currently, ordinary flat lining is mainly used for sheathing surfaces inside the house - it is here that there are the most favorable conditions for its long-term use.

The big disadvantage of all grooved materials (including lining) is the impossibility of quickly replacing damaged elements.

In order to remove a defective board, you will have to disassemble a significant part of the cladding.

A fairly new material on our market. It is a planed wooden board on all sides, at all corners of which a chamfer is removed. Due to this, the casing has rounded edges.

On sale there is a planken of various types.

But there are two main types:

• straight - has a rectangular cross section;
• oblique - has beveled sides of the board.

The fastening of the planken is made on the frame and is fundamentally different from the installation of the lining. In this case, adjacent boards are placed at a distance of 2-5 mm from each other. Thus, the linear expansion of one element does not entail any consequences for neighboring ones. In addition, a damaged board can be easily removed and replaced with a new one.

When using a straight planken, small gaps are formed on the facade, which contribute to good ventilation of the material of the main walls. The oblique planken is also mounted with a gap, but due to the beveled edge, the slots are not visible, although the functionality of such a sheathing is no worse.

Planken, like lining, is made from different types of wood, which affects both its appearance and cost.

Optimal for our climatic conditions is planken made of larch, which is well resistant to the adverse effects of the atmosphere.

It is somewhat more expensive than pine and spruce, but will last longer.

Currently, impregnated planken can be found on sale. It is obtained by impregnating elements in an autoclave. Basically, cheaper pine wood is used for this, which has increased permeability and therefore lends itself well to impregnation.

It has advantages over the usual:

• the cost of impregnated material is lower than larch (not to mention more expensive wood species);
• it does not require additional treatment with protective impregnations;
• the material does not smell, does not get dirty and is completely safe for people and animals;
• excellent resistance to fungus, mold and rot.

As a facade cladding, such material meets the main requirement - the optimal ratio of price and quality. Unlike lining, such material is more convenient in installation and operation. In addition, it can be used to give the facades a noble look.

It is a product of high technology and is a composition that includes wood flour and a thermoplastic polymer in various proportions.

WPC containing a large amount of wood flour (70% or more) is less resistant to moisture and more brittle. If the composition of the polymer contains more than wood, then the product resembles plastic. Therefore, the ratio of 1:1 is considered the most successful - it provides the product with a natural look and properties of polymers.

WPC is mainly used for finishing objects that are actively exposed to atmospheric influences - moisture, sun, temperature fluctuations.

The material has the following positive qualities:

• high resistance to abrasion, scratches;
• resistance to ultraviolet - the skin practically does not fade;
• moisture resistance - the lining does not absorb moisture. does not warp, does not change linear dimensions;
• the ability to operate in a wide temperature range: from -50 to +70 degrees;
• not affected by pests and mold;
• durable - withstands high loads and is not afraid of shock;
• does not require antiseptic treatment and special care;
• resistant to aggressive substances;
• high fire resistance, does not support combustion;

• easy to install;
• environmentally friendly;
• in terms of thermal conductivity comparable to natural wood;
• aesthetic - has many options for texture and color.

A significant drawback of the material is its high cost.

Sometimes sellers offer a thermal board as a skin. In fact, this is not any separate material, but a method of processing wood in order to give it special durability and strength.

Most often, for the manufacture of thermal boards, larch wood is used, which is processed at high temperatures. The texture of wood is completely preserved.

But at the same time, it acquires previously unusual characteristics:

• high density;
• resistance to moisture;
• lack of thermal expansion and swelling;
• possibility of use without additional treatment with protective impregnations.

Wood processing takes place in a special chamber with a gradual increase in temperature, which makes it possible to avoid deformation of the wood and ensure its uniform drying. Next, firing is performed, during which the internal stress of the fibers of the material is removed and it hardens.

Facade cladding of any of the listed types can be made from such material. But it will cost many times more than usual. Therefore, if you decide to spend money on such material, buy it in a safe place, otherwise you can buy the most common cladding (under the guise of thermal wood), but for a lot of money.

Thus, if it is necessary to install the exterior cladding of a house, the choice of material must be approached seriously and responsibly. Here, unreasonable savings can result in high costs for maintaining the appearance of facades in decent condition.

Protection of log walls from the outside from destruction by rain, sunlight, wind and frost is done in various ways. The most environmentally friendly is the cladding of the facade of the house with wood. The arrangement of boards overlap creates a barrier to air flow. Water flows down the protruding surface without getting inside the cladding and wall. Boarding is expensive. Its advantages are in the naturalness of the material, a comfortable environment inside the house, and the unique beauty of natural material.

Sheathing of the house to protect the load-bearing wall

It was necessary to sheathe a wooden cottage. It was Vadik's turn to help me. We worked with him under his questions and my stories. My friend is not just a scientist, but a curious mathematician who wants to learn how to do everything with his own hands. We were preparing a wooden house from the outside for finishing, and I told where the sheathing of the walls with an overlap board came from.

When developing new lands, first America, then Australia, ships often crashed on reefs near unfamiliar shores. Settlers trimmed the outside and inside of their houses with wooden sheathing from the sides. They used selections at opposite corners of the board and stacked them in a herringbone pattern. The edge protruded outward above the bottom bar. The water did not run down the wall all the way to the plinth, but dripped down from each plank. Inside, the cladding and wall remained dry.

Depending on the climate of the area inhabited by the settlers, the sheathing on the outside of the walls with an overlap of a shipboard protected the housing from various natural factors:

• strong wind;
• scorching sun;
• frost;
• rains;
• heat.

Over time, board and timber trim became popular. People appreciated not only the practicality, but also the beauty of the wooden facade. It is easier and cheaper to change the most expensive cladding on the outside than to restore the walls.

Types of wood used for lap sheathing

While we were cleaning the surface of the walls from dirt, I told a friend which types of wood are best suited for cladding outside.

1. According to its characteristics, the larch finish is the leader. Wood is resistant to moisture. The degree of warping is lower than other breeds. Easy to handle and holds nails.
2. Spruce has a natural impregnation with resin and characteristics are slightly lower than larch. Numerous knots give a peculiar decorative look. Over time, cracks appear around them. Therefore, finishing the house, outside with a spruce board is rare.
3. Pine warps strongly and quickly becomes unusable. Not applicable for exterior cladding.
4. Hardwood looks beautiful and is durable. It is difficult to process. May break when hammering nails. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material.

Finishing the house outside can be done with a board with varying degrees of processing:

• the slab slab is the cut edge of a log with an oval surface;
• removed top and unprocessed edges at both sides of the plank;
• unedged board has rounded raw ends on one side;
• on the edged with a wedge, the corner and part of the butt remain unprocessed;
• the clean-edged board is fully processed and has the same dimensions along the entire length;
• tongue-and-groove with grooves of various shapes cut along the entire length.

Finishing with an overlap board is done with all types of the listed materials. Untreated are laid with oval surfaces outward and overlapped with the upper ones. Butt-to-length, only processed planks are connected. The rest with an overlap of 150 mm.

To give the walls a decorative look in ethnic and retro style, veneer can be applied over the board. Then the house looks aged and fragile. Over time, thin strips of wood warp and fluff like frills.

Facade preparation and waterproofing

We spent a few days preparing at home. Finishing the outside with a board requires protecting the walls from dampness. The logs were impregnated with a flame retardant, an antistatic agent and three layers of a water repellent. Applied with brushes and rubbed in well. All this slightly impairs the vapor permeability of the tree. But it protects the walls from fungus and makes them more resistant to moisture and even fire.

I checked the basement waterproofing at the same time. On the foundation stone, moisture from the soil rises to the walls and above. Sheets of roofing material lay intact, protruding several millimeters beyond the plane of the wall. The blind area around the house was made after, when the walls and basement were completed.

House cladding with insulation

Sheathing can be attached directly to the logs with nails 80 - 100 mm long. For insulation, a crate is made of wooden beams. Insulation is laid between the vertical posts, closed with waterproofing. To the beam protruding above the mineral wool, a board trim is mounted.

For waterproofing, a film is selected. Then holes are made in it near the racks for ventilation. You can use a special fabric that allows air to pass through and repels water.

Facade decoration in our performance

The walls of the house were warm enough. Overlapping board decoration created additional thermal insulation. Therefore, Vadik and I, after treating the walls from the outside with all protective compounds, waited until they were completely dry. Then they did the following.

1. Marking of vertical lines along the entire perimeter;
2. Wooden planks were screwed on them with self-tapping screws.
3. They nailed the low tide on top of the basement.
4. Above it, a beam was placed with sides equal to the thickness of the sheathing board. It will ensure a uniform slope of the skin slats.
5. Nails were hammered into the boards from the bottom and top with vertical posts. 2 cm receded from the side end.

We started from the bottom row and from the corner began to move to the right and up. Having completed the sheathing, protective additional elements were installed at the corners of the house. Casing was placed on window and door openings during the construction of the walls. We just have to adjust the size of the board so that it fits snugly against the frame.

Having completed the finishing, we went around the entire perimeter of the house, and sealed all the cracks and joints with sealant. I chose in the store to match the color of the tree.

We took up the brushes again. They covered the overlapping boards on the wall with an antiseptic. Then, for decoration, with a glazing composition. He gave the wood a golden chocolate hue and highlighted the natural grain of the wood.

Overlapped boards can be painted, varnished, waxed. This gives the finish a unique look. It all depends on your taste and the board used for sheathing.

Overlapping siding

A quick and budgetary way to imitate overlapping boarding, mount plastic and metal wood siding. You can make a crate from a metal profile and attach acrylic or vinyl panels to it. It is possible to distinguish a "fake" only at close range.

Ventilated facades last up to 20 years. Virtually no maintenance required. But this is not a tree with its warmth and originality.