The best fertilizer for fruit trees. The use of fertilizers in the care of a young garden

Do I need to apply fertilizer when planting a seedling? It all depends on what kind of soil you have at the planting site. If it's good garden soil, then it is not necessary. If it is solid sand, then any complex mineral fertilizer slowly soluble in water. For an annual seedling, it is quite enough to add, for example, 1 tbsp. spoon "Aquarin" Buysky chemical plant. Or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated, water-insoluble AVA fertilizer. By the way, it will last for three years. At worst, you can make 1 tbsp. a spoonful of "Azofoski", even better - "Ekofoski" or "Kemira".

In addition, you need to add organic matter. In sandy or sandy loamy or podzolic soils - 2-3 buckets of rotted compost or manure and an iodine-year-old seedling. Under a two-year-old seedling, the dose should be doubled, and under a three-year-old - three times.

If the soil is peat, then it is better to deoxidize it, and not to apply mineral fertilizers. Organics on such soils in the first year of a seedling's life is also not needed. As mentioned above, trees are not planted in clay, but the hill that will have to be poured on top of it must contain both organic and mineral fertilizers.

When and how to feed trees? The basic principle of any top dressing is that we bring in what we take out. That is, how many and what kind of minerals we carry away with the harvest, then we must return them back to the soil. In addition, it is also necessary to provide food for soil microorganisms, that is, to add unrotted organic matter to the subtree. The easiest way to do this is to do this without removing anything from under the tree - fallen leaves, weeds weeded or cut along the soil level, and if necessary, then put compost either in trenches (when planting in holes) or directly on the soil (when planting on hill or flat surface) along the perimeter of the crown.

An apple tree takes out 17 g of nitrogen, 5 g of phosphorus, 20 g of potassium from each square meter of the occupied feeding area (approximately 4 x4 \u003d 16 m 2) with an average yield of 4-6 kg (from 1 m 2). The total removal of minerals per season will be 42 g (agronorm), and percentage these basic nutrients (balance) for the apple tree will be 41:11:48. Those plants that tolerate more than 45% of potassium from the total amount of elements with a yield are classified as potassium-loving. Thus, the apple tree is a potassium-loving plant. In addition, it removes from soils with a yield of 12.6 mg of iron, 5 mg of boron, 4.4 mg of copper, 2.4 mg of manganese, 2.6 mg of zinc, 0.05 mg of molybdenum per season from every 1 m 2 per season. All this must be returned to the soil (or brought in for a given season). The feeding area is 16 m 2, so the apple tree will need 272 g of nitrogen, about 9 tbsp. spoons. Phosphorus - 80 g, but pure phosphorus in phosphorus oxide (which is part of mineral fertilizers) contains only 0.44%, so phosphorus oxide will have to be taken 181 g, that is, 6 tbsp. spoons of double granular superphosphate. Potassium apple tree needs 320 g for the whole season, however, potassium oxide contains 0.83% of it, which means that potash fertilizer should be taken 382 g, that is, 12 tbsp. spoons.

Unlike garden plants who should be fed and watered all season, fruit and berry plants need mineral supplements twice a season. The first should be done in the spring, at the moment the leaves turn. Plants need nitrogen and potassium at this time. But the dose of potassium should be divided into spring and late summer. Thus, with spring top dressing, you should take 9 tbsp. spoons of nitrogen and potassium. In total there will be 18 tbsp. spoons per 16 m 2 of food area. Thus, a little more than 1 tbsp is enough. spoons per 1 m 2. If you use potassium nitrate, then 1 tbsp is enough. dissolve a spoon in 10 liters of water, to which you must additionally add 1/2 tbsp. tablespoons of urea, and pour around the perimeter of the tree crown for one running meter. And in order to feed an adult apple tree, you will need to pour 16 buckets of the solution prepared in this way under it.

You can use specialized top dressing for fruit and berry plants Buysky chemical plant, you can only use "Aquarin" or "Omu". Enough 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water. Or take Ecofoska or Kemira. At worst, use 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and 2 tbsp. spoons of carbonate or potassium sulphate (or potassium magnesia) per 10 liters of water. If there are no mineral fertilizers at all, pour the ground under the tree along the perimeter of the crown with a solution of manure (or feces) diluted with water 1: 10 (if you use bird droppings, then prepare the solution 1: 20). Pour it around the perimeter of the crown of the apple tree, and after a week, pour ash on a wet surface at the rate of 1 cup for a one-year-old seedling.

The nutrient solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters for each square meter soil surface. An adult apple tree requires a feeding area of ​​​​4 x 4 m 2, therefore, it is necessary to feed at least 16 buckets of solution, but it must be poured along the perimeter of the tree crown. A berry bush needs a feeding area of ​​1.5 x 1.5 \u003d 2.25 m 2. Therefore, it is enough to pour 2 buckets of solution under it (again, along the perimeter of the crown, and for blackcurrant even beyond the perimeter of the crown). First in the Northwest spring top dressing should be given no earlier than at the beginning of June, when spring frosts, because nitrogen reduces the frost resistance of plants by almost 2 degrees.

The second mineral top dressing is needed fruit- berry crops at the end of summer, when they begin to grow young root system. In mid-late August, prepare a solution of double granular superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and potassium (1 tablespoon), not containing chlorine, in 10 liters of water. And pour this solution at the rate of 10 liters per square meter (naturally, along the perimeter of the plant crown). Don't worry that superphosphate won't dissolve in cold water. Gradually, it will penetrate the root zone and even remain in the soil for the next season. But you can use ready-made autumn fertilizer for fruit and berry plants of the Buysky plant. Or once every three years you will plant 3 st. spoons of AVA granular complex fertilizer. To do this, simply draw a groove around the apple tree with the corner of the weeder.

Distribute the fertilizer evenly and cover it with soil. This fertilizer does not dissolve in water, and therefore is not washed out of the soil. The plant consumes it economically and evenly throughout the season. Fertilizer dissolves in organic soil acids (partially, the roots themselves secrete these acids, dissolving the fertilizer as needed). It is only necessary to remember that fertilizer does not work in alkaline environments, therefore, ash, dolomite, lime and other deoxidizers should not be applied simultaneously with it. If you fold compost every 2-3 years along the perimeter of the crown of one or another apple tree, then no additional feeding will be required for the tree, with the exception of trace elements.

There is another crucial moment in life garden plants- intensive growth of ovaries. At this time, they need microelements, otherwise they will not avoid the premature reset of the ovaries and the crop, which will not only be poorly stored, but also contain vitamins that are subject to rapid destruction. In addition, in healthy-looking apples, the pulp can become Brown and disgusting taste. Therefore, in the area where the soils are poor and practically do not contain microelements, plants should be sprayed on young ovaries with a solution of these very microelements. In particular, it is precisely such soils in the Northwest, where historically there has never been volcanic or mining activity and magma saturated with all minerals did not enrich our soils.

Most the best drug for feeding plants with microelements - this is "Uniflor-micro", containing 15 microelements in a chelated (intracomplex) form. Enough 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water. On the mature tree 5-6 liters of solution will be required. On the berry bush enough 0.5 liters. And it is much more effective to spray the plants, rather than watering. If you use AVA as a mineral fertilizer, then this top dressing is not required. Is it possible to replace Uniflor-micro if it is not available? Yes, you can, with any fertilizer, which includes a large number of trace elements. Don't forget just what's out root dressing plants on the leaves should be 10 times less concentrated than root dressing, otherwise you will burn the plants.

In a pear, the yield is half that of an apple tree, with the same required feeding area 4 x 4 m \u003d 16 m 2 - only about 3 kg per 1 m 2. And therefore, the removal with a harvest of mineral elements per season is significantly less: 7 g of nitrogen, 3 g of pure phosphorus and 8 g of pure potassium from each square meter of food area. The agro-norm is -18, the balance is 41:15:44, that is, the pear needs increased doses of phosphorus and slightly lower doses of potassium than the apple tree. Hence, the feeding norms given for the apple tree should be taken for a pear half as much as for an apple tree. To prepare the solution, the dose of phosphorus must be increased by 1/3 st. spoons, and potassium, respectively, reduce by 1/3 st. spoons. That's all there is to it. If you use AVA fertilizer, then 2.5 tbsp is enough for a pear. spoons for three seasons.

nutritional deficiency

Through the leaves, top dressing is absorbed much faster than through the roots, so foliar nutrition is more effective, but only in emergency situations. It cannot replace root nutrition. When foliar top dressing, it is important that there is no rain for 3-4 hours after spraying. In addition, top dressing should be done in the evening so that it is absorbed by the leaves, and does not evaporate in the sun.

With a lack of potassium, the leaves curl up with a boat, and a brown border forms along their edges - a marginal burn. Spray the plant with Uniflor Bud (2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water) or a weak solution of potassium fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves are pulled vertically upwards. Feed with double granulated superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters). At worst, potassium and phosphorus will be replaced by ash (1 cup of ash, pour 1 liter of hot water for a day, then add water to 10 liters, strain).

With a lack of nitrogen, the foliage becomes smaller and brighter. Feed with any nitrogen fertilizer (1 tablespoon per 10 liters), preferably together with potassium (potassium nitrate, for example). Or use Uniflor-growth.

With a lack of magnesium, the leaves become marbled - dark green with light green. Leaves to be sprayed Epsom salt or a solution of potassium magnesia (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

If marble spotting is variegated (yellow-green or red-green, and so on), then most often this indicates a lack of some trace element. The easiest way is to spray Wiiflor-micro (2 teaspoons per 10 liters). Instead of "Uniflora" you can use "Florist" or "Aquadon-micro" in the same concentration. At worst, use the infusion of ash, as described above.

If on the leaves brown spots, then most often this is evidence of an iron deficiency. There is an excellent drug "Ferovit" (2-4 drops per 1 liter) or any of the "Uniflors". As a last resort, use 0.1% inkstone(1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). If there are black spots on the leaves, then this is most likely a scab. It will not be on the leaves or on the fruits if the "Healthy Garden" is systematically applied.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the soil surface. If top dressing is carried out with the help of granules, then they are simply scattered near the plant, the powdered compositions are mixed with water in the required proportions, watering the soil near the shrub with the resulting mixture.

Granular nitrogen fertilizers

It is preferable to bring closer to the root system, making a small hole near the bush and pouring the solution there. If you use solid organic additives, then it is better to dig them a little under the plant, and liquid ones (for example, if it is a solution of bird droppings) are applied directly under each bush. Also remember that you should definitely follow the instructions for preparing solutions so as not to harm the plant. Another important note - try not to apply organic and mineral fertilizers at the same time. It is better to take a break of at least 1.5 weeks between them.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the garden itself. To do this, remove all the garbage from the site, sweep the dry leaves into one pile and burn it - they can winter in such garbage harmful insects. Also try to remove all weeds from the garden, they take away useful trace elements from the soil.

The most important is the feeding of plants in the spring, when the shrubs wake up and begin to develop after hibernation. If in winter you have fertilized the soil well, then you should not feed the shrubs with the first snowmelt - in this case, you need to start work from mid-May. During this period, give preference to complex fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.

The lack of this substance in the soil can lead to the fact that the content of chlorophyll in the plant will begin to decrease, due to which it will begin to disappear. green coloring shrubs, and the number of flowers and fruits will greatly decrease.

The lack of nitrogen in berry bush

The next top dressing comes in summer period, while the work on fertilizing the soil must be carried out more than once:

1. In the spring, after the flowering of shrubs, when young shoots actively begin to develop, nitrogen-containing fertilizers should be used.
2. At the end of July, when the berries begin to "pour", you can use complex mineral fertilizers.
3. In early August, after harvesting, potash bushes should be fed. phosphate fertilizers(during this period, exclude the use of products that include nitrogen supplements).

A good alternative to almost all types of fertilizers is natural top dressing with infusion of weeds in the proportion of 100 g of "green" per 10 liters of water. It is very important to pay attention autumn feeding- it depends on how correctly you carry out the work whether the berry bushes can survive the winter and whether they will bear fruit next year. In autumn, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers should be applied at the rate of 2 tablespoons of the product for each bush. Additionally, use, for example, manure or bird droppings.

Despite the fact that top dressing of berry and ornamental shrubs almost identical, gooseberries, currants (all its varieties) and raspberries are considered the most capricious crops in this regard.

For example, if you are just going to plant currants, you need to take care of feeding them at least 3 months before the work. Determine the planting site and apply any organic fertilizer at the rate of about 60-80 liters of the chosen product per square meter of plot area. In spring and autumn, organic fertilizers should be applied again. If the plant has been growing on your site for more than a year, the feeding scheme will be slightly different. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers must be applied - about 20 g of urea, 40 g of calcium nitrate and about 20 g of ammonium nitrate will be needed per bush.

Fertilizer currant bush in spring

If you didn’t feed the plant in the fall, you can add a little organic matter: dilute 300 g of manure in a bucket, add two tablespoons of urea and mix the contents thoroughly. For each bush you need to take about two liters of the composition. Repeat feeding after 2-3 weeks.

gooseberry - very unpretentious shrub. But so that he pleases you with juicy and delicious berries, you can not do without quality top dressing. It is best to use complex organic fertilizers. They are applied either along with sawdust mulch, or by irrigation of the bush. It is carried out once in spring or autumn every two years. At the same time, remember that no matter how well you feed the gooseberries - if you planted a plant in clay or swampy, too wet soils, it most likely will not grow.

Raspberries love loamy or light soils enriched with beneficial additives. Before fertilizing, it is necessary to loosen the soil. Raspberry bushes react positively to both organic additives and mineral fertilizers, which will contain nitrogen and phosphorus. The calculation of fertilizers for one bush is as follows: 10 g of urea and ammonium nitrate per square meter of area.

Ornamental shrubs, unlike berry shrubs, can do without fertilizer for a long time if they are satisfied with the composition and fertility of the soil. However, it often happens that the soil on suburban area poor in organic matter (for example, when it comes to sandy or clay soils) and other nutrients. This can lead not only to a deterioration in the appearance of plants, but also to the appearance of various diseases.

ornamental shrub disease

Fertilizers should be applied when planting, mixing them with the soil. Usually top dressing is carried out just before important events in the life of a plant - for example, before bud break, flowering and before preparing plants for hibernation. In general, plant nutrition has different goals in different periods. For example, in spring, work is carried out in order to help shrubs actively grow green mass, in autumn, top dressing is needed to prepare plants for winter period. Most fertilizers in liquid form are usually applied to the soil around trunk circle.

In order for useful microelements to penetrate the roots faster, many novice gardeners loosen the soil. However, you need to remember that this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the root system. Fertilizers for ornamental shrubs are the same as for berry ones: these are nitrogen fertilizers in spring, fertilizing shrubs with organic matter and mineral fertilizers in summer.

Proper feeding of ornamental coniferous shrubs

If it's about, then complex fertilizers, for example, azofoska, is not suitable for them. The use of manure or tinctures from green grass and weeds will lead to the rapid growth of shrubs, but soon yellowing and death. And the point here is not in the amount of fertilizer, but in the composition of dressings. It is better not to use any at all than to feed them with no one knows what. On sale there are a lot of special mixtures that are designed directly for coniferous plants. However, before purchasing a package with a mixture, carefully study its composition.

It is worth remembering the lessons of biology, which taught that most Coniferous leaves receive nutrition not from the root system, but through photosynthesis. This process is not possible without sufficient magnesium ( component chlorophyll molecules). That is why the mixture you choose should contain magnesium. In addition, it is undesirable to use fertilizers containing a large amount of nitrogen to feed conifers. Although it causes an increase in green shoots, it is so fast that the branches simply do not have time to ripen. As a result, young shoots are severely damaged in winter.

It is best to use mineral fertilizers to feed coniferous ornamental shrubs, it is permissible to use biohumus from organic matter. In order for the shrub to please you with its greenery all the time, it must be fed twice a year. The first time fertilizers are applied in May, when the activation of growth points begins. The second time feeding is carried out at the end of August. If top dressing is carried out later, young shoots may not have time to get stronger by winter.

In order for the root system to quickly assimilate top dressing, it is better to apply it in liquid form. Prepare the mixture according to the instructions, pour it into the holes made in advance along the perimeter of the crown. If you use granular fertilizers, simply spread them over the surface of the soil and mix a little with the ground. Biohumus is added in the same way.

Fertilizing trees and shrubs in spring is one of the components of a high yield. It should be produced taking into account the age of the plantations, the quality of the soil and the availability of irrigation. Three whales of fertilizers for fruit bushes and trees are potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Types of fertilizers

Feeding trees and shrubs in early spring carried out either by mineral or organic substances.

They are divided into simple and complex. The difference between them is how many components are included in their composition. If one, then these are simple mineral fertilizers, two or more are complex. They are also divided into groups according to the main component in the composition - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

The basis of organic fertilizers is rotted organic matter - manure, manure, compost and green manures.

Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers

Top dressing and shrubs in early spring with mineral fertilizers requires a careful approach. The main thing in this type of fertilizer is the measure, otherwise you can harm not only the plant, but also the earth and people.

Nitrogen fertilizers include:

• This substance acidifies the soil and does not dissolve well in it, so it is better to apply it in the fall. To improve the properties, you can add 1.5 kg of lime to 1 kg of ammonium sulfate.
• Ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate) is an instant substance. The action is fast and effective on non-acidic soils. Plants absorb it well and react to it. If the soil itself is acidified, then it is better to dilute ammonium nitrate with limestone flour in a 1: 1 ratio. This will neutralize the acidity. This type of fertilizer can be applied both in spring and autumn at the rate of 150-200 kg per hectare, if this is the main component, and 100-150 kg per hectare in the form of top dressing.
• Another one effective top dressing trees and shrubs in the spring - urea (urea). This fertilizer is highly concentrated and very effective in increasing yields. It can be applied directly under the rhizomes of fruit bushes and trees at the time of loosening the soil or through watering, if used liquid form concentrate.

The main requirement that should be observed when using nitrogen fertilizers is compliance with the instructions for use, proper dosing and safety precautions during storage and application to the soil.

Top dressing with phosphorus and potash fertilizers

Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers help plants adapt to external environment, make them frost-resistant and strong. They also affect the quantity and quality of the crop.

Phosphorus fertilizers should be applied deeper into the ground, as they are poorly absorbed, and it is recommended to do this in early spring when digging the soil for the first time. The most popular phosphorus additives are superphosphate (which is based on sulfur, gypsum) and phosphorus flour, which is used on acidic soils.

Superphosphate is in greater demand because of its rapid absorption by the roots of trees and shrubs. When planting seedlings, it is enough to add from 400 to 600 g of superphosphate to each planting hole. For adults, the feeding rate is 40-60 g per 1 m 2 of the trunk circle.

The property of phosphate fertilizers is fast growth plants and the development of a powerful root system. You can also note the qualitative changes in the taste of berries and fruits and the amount of the crop.

potash fertilizers in pure form it is better not to use, but dilute with zinc, iron or nitrogen substances. Most popular type potash fertilizers- This is potassium sulfate, in which there are no chlorine and sodium harmful to plants.

Feeding trees and shrubs in spring with potash fertilizers ensures a good harvest. The lack of potassium in the soil affects the size of the fruits and their taste. Potassium sulphate can be applied to any type of soil at a dosage for top dressing of 20-25 g per 1 m 2. The best effect is given by a mixture of phosphate fertilizers with potash fertilizers.

Top dressing of seedlings

The quantity and quality of fertilizers depends solely on the composition of the soil, but top dressing garden trees and shrubs in the spring, especially before planting seedlings, is required.

The presence of phosphorus in the soil is especially important for seedlings, since it is he who affects their growth and rapid adaptation. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be laid before the seedlings are planted.

It is best to do this in a layer deeper than the hole, under a tree or bush. It is also important that fertilizers are immediately incorporated into in large numbers, for several years. Fertilizing trees and shrubs with phosphorus in spring is important only for young trees, as it stimulates their rapid growth.

Other fertilizers for trees younger than two years old can be omitted only if the soil has not previously been completely depleted. Otherwise, it should first be carefully fertilized and restored, and only then lay the garden.

Feeding with organic matter

Organic fertilizers are natural and natural for trees and shrubs. They began to be used long before the chemical industry appeared. They enrich and improve the composition of the soil without harm to it.

Fertilizing trees and shrubs in spring with manure is the most common procedure for summer residents. It is the most accessible and cheap look top dressing with full set needed by plants components - boron, manganese, cobalt, copper and molybdenum. The best for feeding trees and shrubs is considered horse dung and bird droppings. They are the most complete with essential trace elements for plant growth and high yields. Most often, a liquid form of fertilizing fruit and berry crops is used.

To obtain a solution, any container is half filled with manure, and poured with water on top, after which they should be thoroughly mixed. After a month, the resulting mixture can be used at the rate of 1 liter per 6-8 liters of water. If the soil is dry, then the solution should be made more liquid. A thicker fertilizer composition is applied to moist soil.

If it is planned to fertilize fruit trees and shrubs in April, then, accordingly, a solution should be laid in March.

Top dressing with compost

Peat and humus are types of organic fertilizers that can be used both independently and in the form of compost. Compost is made from manure, peat or various waste - food or fallen leaves and tops. It's fermented plant remains, which were artificially prepared during the year. To do this, you need to choose a place that does not flood with water, and put all the components mixed with the ground there.

As you grow compost heap it should be moistened so that rotting takes place more intensively. It is recommended to cover the compost with a black film, which does not allow moisture to evaporate and at the same time attracts the heat of the sun. For better decay vegetable waste and manure can be sprinkled with layers of slaked lime, and in order to have access to oxygen, layers of branches and straw are used, which allow the compost to “breathe”.

The finished composition can be used after 1-2 years. This is the purest and most useful fertilizer, which has a great effect on both the plants themselves and the ground.

Feeding stone fruit trees

For the qualitative development and growth of stone fruit trees, it is extremely important good food. Fertilizing fruit trees and shrubs in March is the key to a good harvest, as this helps plants to quickly move away from hibernation.

It is very convenient to give the first portion of fertilizer when there is still snow under the trees. As it melts useful material will enter the soil and feed the roots. If the stone tree is young, then it is better to start top dressing in the 2nd year of its growth. To do this, it is enough to use urea at the rate of 20 g / 1 m 2. It should only be applied in the spring. In autumn, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can be added.

When stone fruit trees- cherry, plum, apricot and others - enter the fruiting season, up to 10 kg of manure or compost, 20-25 g of urea, 60 g of simple or 30 g of double superphosphate and 200 g of wood ash per square meter.

Feeding pome trees

For seed trees the best fertilizer in April there will be nitrogen substances that stimulate the growth of their shoots. If the tree gives a weak harvest, then it is additionally recommended to add urea in the ratio of 5 g / 1 m 2 of the near-stem circle. For adult trees, top dressing is carried out around the perimeter of the entire crown.

It is very useful to use the aisles in the garden for sowing cultivated grasses such as meadow fescue and others. They should be mowed as they grow and left under the trees. In this case, you can not fertilize the garden with organic matter, but add only mineral fertilizers.

Fertilizing berry bushes

For the berry-picker to give good harvests, the land should be prepared and fertilized in advance. For example, black currants need moist places, while raspberries, red currants and gooseberries need well-lit, warm areas of the garden.

Bookmarking the soil fertilizers should be done plentifully. Manure, humus or compost is applied at the rate of 500 kg per 100 m 2. Of the mineral fertilizers, phosphorus and potash are suitable for berry crops.

If the laying of the berry was carried out correctly, then the next couple of years, you can significantly reduce the top dressing of the soil.

For productivity fruit crops and their stable growth are significantly affected by timely top dressing, which must be carried out regularly and taking into account the growing season of plants.

Fertilizing fruit bushes and trees in the summer is an integral part of proper garden care. When organizing garden feeding, it is important to take into account the development of the root system, shoots and the timing of fruiting trees and shrubs. This approach will protect plants from certain diseases, increase frost resistance and ensure a stable harvest of the current and next year.

The importance of summer top dressing for the development of fruit shrubs and trees

Fruiting and growth of fruit trees, shrubs directly depends on the stock nutrients in the root system and elevated organs plants. It is clear that the necessary useful elements for the normal development of shrubs and trees are constantly consumed and they must be replenished in time by feeding the plants with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Spring budding of fruit trees, active growth of shoots, roots and flowering of the garden is mainly due to the nutrients accumulated over the previous summer and autumn. Therefore, it is necessary to lay the foundation for the future harvest in advance, namely in the summer.

In addition, the most active assimilation of nutrients by fruit and berry plants occurs in spring and with the onset of summer, so it is at this time that it is important to support and feed trees and shrubs. However, care must be taken to prevent an overabundance of mineral, organic fertilizers - this can have a detrimental effect on plants, and even fatal for young shrubs and trees.

Types of fertilizers and their effect on the growth of fruit trees and shrubs

Fruit and berry plants in the garden can be fed with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers include:

• compost;
• manure;
• green manure crops;
• slurry.

Compost is a fertilizer consisting of rotted garbage, waste of plant origin.

Do not use undecomposed compost - there is a possibility that viable weed seeds remain in it

Manure that enriches the soil is considered a complete organic fertilizer. useful elements and improving its thermal regime, air and water permeability.

When using manure, it is necessary to pay attention to its condition - rotted manure is a dark brown loose earthy mass. Bird manure has the most effective fertilizing effect on fruit and berry plants (pig manure has a low nutrient content).

The introduction of composts into the soil improves the use and digestibility of mineral fertilizers.

In horticulture, the following mineral fertilizers are used:

• nitrogen;
• phosphoric;
• calcium;
• potassium;
• microfertilizers.

Nitrogen mineral fertilizers (urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate) show best result on sandy soils, and chernozems least need replenishment of nitrogen reserves. Nitrogen-containing top dressing accelerates the growth of trees, shrubs, and is involved in the formation of fruits.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not fixed in the soil and if they were not used by the plant, then over time they are simply washed out of the soil. Therefore, it is necessary to make nitrogen regularly - several times during the year. At the same time, it must be remembered that in order to obtain a visible effect from fertilizers, the soil must be slightly moist when fertilizing, so that ammonia does not evaporate.

Phosphate fertilizers (superphosphate, double superphosphate, bone and phosphate rock) in horticulture are usually used in granular form. Fertilizers based on phosphorus are introduced deep into the soil, since phosphorus fertilizers are firmly fixed in the soil.

The effectiveness of phosphate fertilizers largely depends on their solubility. Superphosphate refers to fast-acting fertilizers, and slowly soluble phosphorus fertilizers should preferably be thoroughly mixed with the soil.

top dressing in summer orchard Phosphate fertilizers are usually not done, but plants are fertilized in the fall.

top dressing fruit plants potash fertilizers (potassium sulfate) help plants synthesize sugar, improve winter hardiness, drought resistance and increase resistance to fungal diseases. Potassium is well accumulated in chernozems, and is retained weaker on sandy and peaty soils.

Wood ash has a high potassium content and is often used by gardeners to feed fruit trees and shrubs.

Important for the proper development of plants and high yields is the timely application of microfertilizers, which contain the whole range of essential trace elements, such as: manganese, copper, iron, boron, zinc, sulfur, molybdenum.

Organization of feeding fruit trees

how to determine the amount of fertilizer for the orchard

1. One must be added to the diameter of the tree crown and the resulting value multiplied by 3.14 - the result of the calculation shows the area of ​​​​soil for fertilization.
2. The calculated area must be multiplied by the required for 1 sq. m dose of fertilizer.

When organizing the feeding of fruit trees, the following points should be considered:

• the intensity of the irrigation regime affects the amount of fertilizer applied - abundant irrigation requires several large doses of nutrients;

• if it is planned to carry out a significant pruning of trees, then the amount of fertilizer should be increased for a better growth of young shoots;
• liquid fertilizers should be applied around shrubs and trees, going beyond the crown projection by about half a meter;
• if the soil is regularly fertilized with ash, then there is no need to fertilize with microelements;
• reduce soil acidity optimal acidity- 5.5-6.5 Рn), when liming the soil - add to the soil lime plaster or powdered slaked lime;

• to feed young plants, less concentrated preparations should be used;
• with the simultaneous application of mineral and organic fertilizers, their rate should be halved.

summer top dressing of pome and stone fruit trees

Summer top dressing of fruit trees is necessary to activate the activity of the root system, as well as to enhance its nutrition. The increased ability of the roots to absorb nutrients contributes to the laying of buds already in the summer, when fruits are weighed on the trees.

It should be noted that pome fruit trees (pear, apple) need higher doses of organic and mineral fertilizers than stone fruit trees (cherry, apricot, cherry, peach).

For feeding apple and pear trees (9-10 years of age), you can adhere to the following fertilizer consumption rates per square meter monthly (June, July, August):

• potassium salt - 3 g;
• superphosphate - 5 g;
• montane saltpeter - 6 g.

Late top dressing in August for adult plants will not do harm, unlike young trees, since all the nutrients will be involved in laying the crop on next year, not for active growth young shoots.

Stone fruit trees should be fed three times during the growing season: the first - before flowering (spring), the second - during the fruiting period, and the third - after harvesting.

Fertilizing cherries in the summer can be organized as follows:

1. During the fruiting period, the tree should be watered with a solution of the "Berry Giant" (300 grams per bucket of water) with the addition of two tablespoons of urea. "Berry giant" can be replaced with three tablespoons of nitrophoska.
2. After harvesting, the tree must be fertilized with such a solution: for a bucket of water - three tablespoons of superphosphate and two tablespoons of potassium sulfate.

Carrying out such dressings will help the trees to winter well and protect them from many diseases and pests.

Organization of fertilization of fruit bushes

Berry bushes need intensive top dressing in summer. During the season, it is desirable to carry out four top dressings:

• the first - during flowering (mid-May);
• the second - during the period of intensive growth of shoots (beginning of June);
• the third - at the time of formation of the ovary, pouring berries (June-July);
• the fourth - after the harvest.

Fertilizing berry bushes should be carried out after watering or rain

It is advisable to fertilize raspberries at the beginning of summer with mineral fertilizers (liquid): for a bucket of water - 10 grams of potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate, 20 grams of urea (consumption for 6-7 bushes). After fertilization, the soil under the plant must be loosened.

Once every three years, raspberries should be fed with organic fertilizers per 1 sq.m. - 0.5-1 bucket of humus or manure.

Currants are very sensitive to fertilizing. When organizing top dressing of a berry bush, it is important to remember that currants react poorly to the chlorine content in fertilizers, so it is important to correctly calculate the doses of potash top dressing.

Fertilizing currants in the summer can be done in the following steps:

1. If organic fertilizers were applied under currants in autumn, then the plant must be fed with nitrogen fertilizers (for 10 liters of water - 35 grams of calcium nitrate, 15 grams of ammonium nitrate, 12 grams of urea). If organic fertilizers were not applied before winter, then in spring and summer the shrub should be fed with organic fertilizers (manure must be diluted in water and urea added). Such top dressing should be done three times: the first - in the spring before flowering, and every subsequent one in two weeks.
2. To increase the content of vitamins in berries, improve their palatability and aroma, it is necessary to make top dressing from ready-made fertilizer mixtures: “Berry”, “Ideal”, “Berry Giant”. During the summer, you can spend three top dressing (the last should be immediately after picking berries).

Gooseberries need higher doses of potash than currants. Gooseberries should be fed in the first half of summer with nitrogen fertilizers (13-16 grams of dry active substance per 1 sq. M) with the addition of potassium and phosphorus (30 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium sulfate). If top dressing is carried out in dry weather, then dry fertilizers must be dissolved in water.

It is impossible to feed gooseberries with nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of summer, otherwise the young shoots of the plant will become brittle and susceptible to powdery mildew. In addition, such a shrub may not tolerate harsh weather winters.

foliar top dressing

As an additional method of top dressing in the summer, foliar top dressing of fruit trees and shrubs is often used. With foliar feeding (spraying), plants receive nutrients directly through the leaves.

For such dressings, both organic and mineral fertilizers are used. A good effect is given by foliar top dressing with microfertilizers. Zinc increases the resistance of trees and shrubs to diseases, boron promotes active and abundant flowering, and manganese increases yield and sugar content in fruits.

When foliar top dressing, weak solutions of fertilizers should be used so as not to damage the leaf tissue. The concentration of urea for foliar top dressing in the summer should be no more than 1%, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride 0.5-1%, superphosphate - up to 5%.

Foliar top dressing of pear and apple trees can be carried out with a solution of zinc sulfate (0.2 g / l), borax (1 g / l) or manganese sulfate (0.2 g / l). If you combine all three trace elements at the same time, then the dose of each must be halved.

After harvesting, the currant bush can be treated with a solution: for one bucket of water - 5 g of potassium permanganate, 10 g of copper sulfate, 2 g of boric acid. It is necessary to spray currant bushes in the evening.

For gooseberries, foliar top dressing with potash and phosphorus (1-2%) fertilizers, as well as trace elements are very useful: manganese sulfate (0.1-0.5%) and boric acid (0,01-0,05%).

At the beginning of summer and after harvesting, raspberries can be treated with zinc or manganese sulfate (5-10 g per 10 liters of water), blue vitriol(about 5 g per 10 liters of water) or molybdenum ammonium (1-3 g per bucket of water).

Timely feeding of trees and shrubs will allow you to get a high yield every year and enjoy a beautiful, well-groomed appearance orchard.

When fertilizing, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil of the site: the degree of its fertility and the availability of nutrients, as well as the reaction of the environment (it is favorable or not quite for the growth of fruit and berry plants), the mechanical composition of the soil (it is heavy, clay or light, mixed with sand) , plantation age, etc.

Fertilizer use

In the first years of life, plants are especially demanding on phosphorus, since it stimulates the growth of roots and provides an increase in the above-ground mass.

Phosphorus and potash fertilizers, as noted above, are characterized by low mobility and are fixed mainly in the zone of application to the soil. Therefore, it is very important to apply them deeply, even before planting trees and shrubs, with increased doses designed for long term actions.

The use of nitrogen fertilizers in the care of the garden due to their good solubility and mobility in the soil is not difficult. The main task in their application is to prevent losses of nitrogen, since its ammonia form is volatile, and its nitrate form is mobile, especially on light soils and during irrigation.

Therefore, all nitrogen fertilizers applied in dry form must be immediately embedded in the ground.

On light soils and when irrigating high single doses of nitrogen fertilizers, they are not used, but they are applied fractionally and more often than on heavy soils and without irrigation. The gardener should remember that in the first half of summer, plants need all three main nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. An excess of nitrogen in the second half of summer can cause their protracted growth and therefore reduce winter hardiness, especially of stone fruit crops.

Fertilization

Fertilizers for apple trees, pears, cherries, plums are applied to landing pits, and in the areas allotted for berry fields - for digging. At the same time, rotted manure and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used. Superphosphate is best applied in the form of an organo-mineral mixture. On a bucket of bulk manure, take 300 g of simple superphosphate or 150 g. - double. Superphosphate is mixed with wet organic matter 2 weeks prior to application. Under the apple tree, 2-3 buckets of such a mixture are brought into the pit; in total, this is 15-25 kg of manure, 450-900 g of superphosphate. Potash fertilizers are applied at 200-300 g. Under stone fruits fertilizer doses are halved. It is not recommended to introduce unripe manure and nitrogen fertilizers into the pits. With good preplant soil dressing, trees in the first 4-5 or more years usually do not need additional application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Manure in the first year after planting is brought in in the form of mulch and sealed up when digging. In the future, organic fertilizers are recommended to be applied for 4-5 years, before the garden begins to bear fruit.

The introduction of nitrogen fertilizers should begin from 2-3 years after planting, when the plants take root and get stronger. When introduced in the year of planting, they can cause a burn of young roots and worsen the survival of plants. In the young garden fertile soil the need for nitrogen in fruit plants usually occurs in early spring, when the process of natural microbiological formation of nitrates is suppressed. In this regard, nitrogen fertilizers containing nitrogen in the nitrate form (ammonium nitrate) are applied at a dose of 15-20 g per 1 m 2. This work is carried out when the bulk of the snow has gone, but in the morning the soil still freezes. If for some reason it was not possible to apply fertilizer at this time, then it is applied before the first spring loosening of the soil (harrowing).

In the first years, fertilizers have a weak effect on the growth of trees, but as they approach fruiting, their effect increases more and more. With the entry of tree species into fruiting, the fertilizer application system consists of autumn (basic) application, spring and top dressing. The main thing is the main thing, when in the fall, for digging, organic fertilizers (manure, compost) and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (30-45 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate or chloride per 1 m 2) are applied. Autumn application of chlorine-containing potash fertilizers contributes to the leaching of chlorine from the soil.

Deep application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, as already noted, contributes to the development of a powerful root system. It is carried out in furrows, annular grooves, etc. the best way is focal. The foci are holes made along the periphery of the crown to a depth of 30-35 cm. running meter one hole is placed. The amount of fertilizer intended for application under one tree is distributed equally to all holes.

Effective joint application of mineral fertilizers with organic. The norm of mineral fertilizers is reduced by half.

Spring fertilization for fruit trees usually consists of using ammonium nitrate, this has already been discussed in detail above. But if organic and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers were not applied in the fall, they must be applied in the spring (preferably in the wells).

For fruit bearing trees great importance they also have supplements. In non-irrigated gardens, they are most often limited to the early spring application of ammonium nitrate, since in the absence of irrigation, top dressing is ineffective. The application rate is 15-20 g per 1 m 2 during the entry of the garden into fruiting and 20-25 g - with full fruiting.

In irrigated orchards, there is a danger of leaching of mobile nitrogen into the deep layers, especially on light soils. At the same time, fruit-bearing orchards are especially in need of nitrogen fertilizer. Therefore, in a fruit-bearing irrigated garden, in addition to the early spring application of nitrogen fertilizers, one or two top dressings are carried out during the growing season. The first is nitrogen fertilizer ( ammonium nitrate) after physiological shedding of the ovary - at a dose of 10 g per 1 m 2. At high yield after 20-25 days, a second top dressing should be carried out. It is held full fertilizer and contributes to the normal laying of flower buds for the next year's harvest. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers: nitrophoska (25-30 g per 1 m2) or nitroammofoska (20 g per 1 m 2) with the addition of potassium sulfate or chloride (10 g per 1 m 2).

In a lean year, they are limited only to the main fertilizer and the spring application of nitrogen, since in this case the consumption of nutrients goes only to increase the vegetative mass and lay flower buds for the next year's crop. It is necessary to restrain the laying of the kidneys so as not to overload the tree with a crop in a year.

Mineral fertilizers when top dressing can be applied both in liquid and dry form. In the first case, the fertilizer should be dissolved in water - 20-30 g per 10 liters, in the second - subsequent watering is required.

Good results are obtained by top dressing with local liquid organic fertilizers - slurry, bird droppings, which contribute at the rate of 1 bucket per 2-3 m of furrow. They are cut along the periphery of the tree crown from two or four sides, one or two at a time, with a depth: for apple and pear trees - 15-18 cm, for plums and cherries - 12-14 cm. Bird droppings are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:12, slurry - 1:4. Top dressing is best timed to coincide with the rains. If the weather is dry, then the furrows must be watered. Top dressing can be done simultaneously with watering. When applying top dressing, however, it must be remembered that this method of fertilizing is auxiliary and cannot replace the main fertilizer. The use of nitrogen fertilizers, especially in young gardens, must be approached carefully, strictly observing the doses and terms of application. A constant excess of nitrogen, especially in the case of a lack of other elements, leads to the fact that in young plants a state of so-called "fatting" may occur, that is, violent growth in the absence of fruiting. It is not immediately possible to cause fruiting in fattening trees. To do this, first of all, it is necessary to weaken the nitrogen supply, and at the same time, increase the phosphorus-potassium supply, reduce watering. In some cases, one has to resort to the use of special techniques: hauling branches, banding, etc.

strawberry fertilizer

When preparing the site for its August planting, it is necessary in advance, at the beginning of summer for digging, to apply organic fertilizers: semi-decomposed manure, humus or compost - 4-5 kg ​​per 1 m2, as well as mineral fertilizers: double granular superphosphate - 20-25 g per 1 m 2 and potassium sulfate - 25-30 g each. Early in the spring of the next year and annually thereafter, nitrogen supplements are given with ammonium nitrate at a dose of 20-25 g per 1 m 2. After harvesting, every year, for digging row spacing, full mineral fertilizer is applied. For this purpose, complex fertilizers are used: nitrophoska or azofoska at a dose of 40-50 g per 1 m2.

Instead, you can add ammophos at a dose of 15-20 g per 1 m 2 and potassium sulfate - 20-25 g. This will help a good laying of fruit buds for next year's harvest.

Can instead mineral supplement use bird droppings in liquid form, diluted 12-15 times.