Redcurrant, care and planting. Planting and quality care for red currants in the fall

In order for the currant to give a rich harvest with large berries, it must be cut off. produced in autumn or in early spring(before sap flow). Also in the summer after the fruiting period, you can spend sanitary pruning. You can learn more about it from the video:

Redcurrant differs from blackcurrant in terms of fruiting: its fruit buds are formed on perennial shoots and at the base of annual branches. Bushes of red and white currants have much fewer zero-order shoots than black currants, they are less thickened and bear fruit much longer - 15-20 years. Bouquet twigs and kolchatka, on which flower buds are laid, live 2-3 times longer than those of black currant. The distribution of berries over the bush is more uniform; with age, the crop does not shift to the periphery of the crown. So red and white currant need less pruning.

Periodically, only zero-order shoots need to be removed (occasionally in the first years, and from 6-7 years old - every season in the fall). At the same time, one-year increments of other orders cannot be cut. Before flowering, try to cut off damaged branches (dry, frozen, affected by pests).

• For 7 years of development of the bush, red currant forms up to 25 branches. Therefore, from the seventh year, 3-4 oldest branches are removed every year, leaving 3-4 young shoots instead.
• Fruit buds on red currant bushes are formed in tiers mainly in the upper part. So from the age of two, the ends of the branches cannot be cut off.
• In young bushes, the ends of the branches are cut so that 3-4 buds remain above the ground.
• Every year, weak, diseased, low-lying, broken and old (more than 8 years) branches should be cut.
• To prevent thickening, from the 6th year it is necessary to remove all unnecessary annual root shoots.

Varieties of red and white currants

Compared to black, there are very few varieties of red and white currants. In terms of winter hardiness, they are excellent for growing in the northern regions:

• Exhibition red,
• Versailles white,
• Houghton Castle,
• dutch red,
• star of the north
• Dawn of the Arctic,
• Faya fertile,
• Svetlana,
• Erstling Aus Vierlanden.

Varieties of red currant

• Gazelle. Mid-early variety, medium-sized berries with a sweet-sour taste.

• Versailles red. The variety is early in terms of maturation. Very popular in the Baltics. His bush is undersized, wrinkled large-lobed foxes. Large fruits have a slightly acidic taste. The yield is high.

• dutch red. Extremely unpretentious to the conditions. The variety is long-lived, able to bear fruit up to 30 years. Average yield.

• Houghton Castle. Maturity is average. Vigorous bush with brown shoots. Sweet and sour fruits medium size. The variety is very winter hardy.

• Red Cross. Variety English, very common in the territory former USSR. Excellent for growing in the northern regions of Kazakhstan. Medium-sized sprawling bushes with large (up to 1 g) bright red berries of good taste. The yield is average.

• Natalie. In terms of maturity, the variety is medium-late. Very fruitful.

You can choose red currant seedlings in our catalog, which presents products from various online stores.

Red currant Early sweet 590 rub LOOK
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Redcurrant Giganta 590 rub LOOK
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Red currant Imperial 590 rub LOOK
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Currant red Ural beauty 590 rub LOOK
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Varieties of white currant

• Diamond (White Fairy). Dense, slightly spreading bushes of medium size. Very tasty transparent berries of average size. Up to 5 kg of berries can be removed from one bush. It is slightly damaged by pests and diseases.

• Versailles white. Mid-late maturity. Medium-sized bushes produce tasty, medium-sized transparent yellowish berries. The average yield is up to 3 kg per bush. The variety is resistant to anthracnose and has low winter hardiness.

• Dutch white. The ripening period is medium, the bushes are medium in size, the berries are sour, white with a tan. The variety is winter-hardy, slightly affected by fungi.

• Smolyaninovskaya. Maturity is average. Vigorous spreading bushes with a rare crown. High disease resistance. White transparent berries with a pleasant taste are large, the brush is long. They remain on the bushes for a long time, while not losing their taste properties. From one bush you can remove from 4 to 9 kg of berries.

You can choose whitecurrant seedlings in our catalog, which presents products from various online stores.

• Landing: in September or from mid to late April.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: slightly acidic or neutral chernozems, forest soils with a high content of humus or loam.
• Watering: regular and sufficient, especially during the period active growth and the formation of ovaries (in early June), as well as during the filling of berries (in late July or early August). Consumption - 20-30 liters of water per m²: the soil should be saturated to a depth of 30-40 cm.
• top dressing: in April, urea is introduced into the soil, in June - slurry or solution bird droppings, although it is possible to fertilize the soil and mineral complex. In summer, on cloudy days or in the evenings, foliar top dressing is carried out on the leaves with solutions of trace elements - boric acid, zinc sulfate, blue vitriol, manganese sulfate and ammonium molybdate. In early October, the soil around the bushes is dug up with organic matter, potash and phosphorus fertilizer.
• pruning: early spring or after leaf fall.
• reproduction: layering, dividing the bush and cuttings.
• Pests: the plant can be affected by blackcurrant fruit, gooseberry yellow and pale-footed sawflies, currant gall midges, glass cases, bud and spider mites, leaf gall and gooseberry shoot aphids, gooseberry moth, moth and biennial leafworm.
• Diseases: anthracnose, white spot, European powdery mildew, terry (growth, reversion), nectrium drying of shoots, striped mosaic, goblet and columnar rust, gray rot.

Read more about growing red currants below.

Red currant - description

Red currant bushes reach a height of 1 to 2 m. The root system of red currant is quite powerful. Her shoots are yellowish or gray, green wood with a light core. The leaves of red currant are three-five-lobed, smooth and shiny on the upper side, and more on the lower side. light shade and sometimes with pubescence along the veins. Blossoming in May, inconspicuous red-brown or yellow-green flowers are collected in brushes. The fruits of red currant are juicy and sour-tasting red berries up to 1 mm in diameter, collected in clusters. Red and black currants are close relatives. They are also related to white currant and gooseberry. In our gardens, redcurrants are grown just as often as blackcurrants, strawberries and raspberries, and much more often than blackberries, blueberries and blueberries just starting to master amateur gardens.

Red currant blooms much later than black, so it is less likely to suffer from return frosts. It tolerates drought more easily proper care gives richer harvests. The bush of red currant lives 30-35 years. Almost all cultivars are self-fertile.

From this article, you will learn how red currants are planted and cared for - how and when to water them, how to feed them, how to cut red currants, how to treat them for diseases and pests, and whether red currants can be grown in areas with a cool climate. In addition, we will give you a description of the varieties of red currant, and you will surely be able to choose excellent varieties for your area.

Planting red currant

When to plant red currants.

Optimal time for planting red currant september. If for some reason you did not manage to plant red currants in the fall, you can transfer the planting to spring - to the middle or end of April.

Since redcurrant is very photophilous, it should be grown on a well-lit and ventilated southern slope. The best soils for her - chernozem, forest soils with a high content of humus and loam with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. For planting, choose one- or two-year-old redcurrant seedlings with an extensive and healthy root system about 20 cm long. Before planting, remove all leaves from the seedlings and hold their roots in a bucket of water for 2-3 hours.

Planting red currants in autumn.

2-3 weeks before autumn planting dig a hole with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a depth of about 40 cm. Thoroughly mix the soil taken out of the hole with 8-10 kg of peat or humus, 200 g of superphosphate and 40 g of wood ash or potassium sulfate - this is the calculation for 1 plant. Pour half of the mixture into the hole, and leave the second part nearby. If you plant several bushes, dig holes for them at a distance of at least 1.5-2 m. When planting red currants along a fence or paths, step back from them at least one and a half meters.

When, after 2-3 weeks, the earth in the pit settles, lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and straighten them. Place the seedling itself straight or at an angle, deepening the root neck by 5-6 cm to stimulate the formation of additional roots and renewal shoots. When filling the roots of the seedling with a nutritious earthen mixture, shake it from time to time so that there are no voids in the roots. When the pit is filled up, compact the soil, make a circular furrow around the seedling at a distance of 20 cm and fill it with water several times. After the water has been absorbed, mulch the area around the seedling with peat or humus, and cut the shoots at a height of 10-15 cm, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each - this measure contributes to the formation of a well-branched bush and the development of a strong root system. Before the seedling takes root, it must be watered at least twice a week.

Planting red currants in spring.

spring planting red currants are carried out from mid to late April in the same order as autumn, with one exception: pits for seedlings and a fertile mixture are prepared in the fall, but only organic matter is added to the soil, and phosphorus and potassium are added to it before planting.

Red currant care

Caring for red currants in spring.

At the end of March, as soon as the weather permits, it is time for sanitary pruning and the formation of red currant bushes. In April, red currants are fed with urea on wet ground, and then, as soon as the top layer of soil dries out, they begin to loosen the area around the bushes to a depth of 6-8 cm. After that, level the surface with a rake and mulch the area with a layer of peat 5-10 cm thick.

If frosts return in May, during the redcurrant flowering period, you may have to protect the bushes from them with smoke. At the same time, red currants are examined in order to identify specimens infected with doubleness (growth) - on such plants, bell-shaped flowers become separate-petal. If you find single terry inflorescences, cut them off, but if the entire bush is affected, uproot it without delay.

To prevent redcurrants from becoming thirsty in spring, keep the soil on the site in a slightly damp state. Remove weeds while loosening the soil, which should be carried out to a depth of 6-8 cm once every two to three weeks. The aisles are loosened to a depth of 10-12 cm.

Caring for red currants in summer.

In June, red currants are fed with organic fertilizers. In addition to root top dressing, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of micronutrient fertilizers over the leaves. If you find moth nests, collect them from the bushes and destroy them along with the berries affected by the pest. You will most likely have to do this several times.

When it's time to harvest, pick redcurrants as they ripen in whole clusters in small trays or boxes that won't wrinkle the fruit. Currant after harvesting needs mandatory watering, followed by loosening.

Caring for red currants in autumn.

At the beginning of autumn you can do vegetative propagation red currant. At the end of September or a little later, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the pre-moistened soil in the area with red currants, after which the soil is dug up for their incorporation.

After the leaf fall, the currants are pruned, and if the autumn turns out to be dry, the winter watering of the site is carried out.

Redcurrant processing.

In early March, red currant bushes need to be awakened from winter sleep - poured from a watering can with water heated to 80 ºC. After that, on the still dormant buds, preventive treatment of bushes from diseases with copper sulphate or Nitrafen is carried out. The next prophylactic treatment of red currants from fungal diseases with the same drugs is carried out 10 days after harvest.

During the budding period, for prophylactic purposes, red currants are treated against insect pests with Actellik, Karbofos or Rovikurt preparations. Re-treatment is carried out after harvest.

Watering red currants.

Despite the fact that the red currant, due to its well-developed root system, is much more tolerant of dry conditions than the black currant, the lack of water retards its growth, and during the period of fruit formation and filling, it often leads to their crushing and even shedding. Therefore, regular and sufficient watering red currants during the period of active growth and formation of ovaries, that is, in early June, as well as in late July and early August, when the berries are poured.

Watering is carried out at the rate of 20-30 liters per m² of plot in order to soak the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm. Water is poured into circular grooves 10-15 cm deep, made at a distance of 30-40 cm from the bush. You can arrange an irrigation platform around each bush, enclosing it with an earthen roller 15 cm high. When the well-moistened soil dries, loosen the area so that a crust does not form on its surface. If you gave yourself the trouble in spring to mulch the land on the site with humus, decomposed peat or rotted manure at the rate of 10-15 kg per bush, you will have to water the site and loosen it much less often.

Top dressing of red currant.

In April, urea is added to the moistened soil at the site for embedding at the rate of 10-15 g per m². In June, red currants are fed with 1 liter of slurry infusion diluted in a bucket of water or with a solution of half a liter of bird droppings infusion in 10 liters of water. If it was not possible to find organic matter, add 10-15 g of urea under each bush, the same amount of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate.

In summer, red currants need foliar top dressing trace elements. To do this, in 10 liters of water you need to dissolve up to 2.5 g of boric acid, 5-10 g of manganese sulfate, 1-2 g of copper sulfate, 2-3 g of ammonium molybdate and the same amount of zinc sulfate. Processing of red currant leaves is carried out on a cloudy day or in the evening.

In early October, red currants are fed for the last time: under each bush, 10-15 kg of organic fertilizer, 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium chloride are added for digging. Mineral fertilizers can be replaced with a garden or fruit and berry mixture at the rate of 500 g per bush.

When to prune red currants.

Growing red currants involves regular shaping, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning of bushes. Redcurrant pruning is carried out in early spring or late autumn when she is at rest.

The structure of the red currant is similar to the structure of the black one, but its fruiting shoots last twice as long. Fruit buds of red currant almost always form at the tops of annual shoots, and its fruitlets are located at the top of the branches, so when cutting, the tips are by no means cut off. Since the fruiting period of red currant shoots is longer than that of black currant shoots, its anti-aging pruning is not done so often.

Pruning red currants in spring.

In a one-year-old seedling of red currant, all shoots are shortened by half to the outer bud, forming a compact spherical bush. Since redcurrant is very photophilous plant and when the bush thickens, it sharply loses productivity, its bush is formed within 5-6 years from no more than 15-20 branches, and from the seventh year, in addition to sanitary pruning, which involves the removal of unnecessary, diseased, broken or dried branches, it will be necessary to carry out rejuvenating - remove branches that have served their time and regulate the growth of zero shoots. Of the zero shoots, the most developed and well-located ones are left for renewal, that is, those that grow closer to the bush, do not lie on the ground and do not intersect with other shoots. They are shortened by half the length to the outer kidney, directed upwards, and the remaining increments are cut out.

Pruning red currants in autumn.

In the autumn, after leaf fall, when the red currant bears fruit and enters a dormant period, sanitary pruning of the bushes is carried out: broken, diseased, dried or growing branches are removed. If for some reason you haven't done a formative pruning in the spring, you can do it in the fall.

Reproduction of red currant

How to propagate red currant.

Of course, you can buy redcurrant seedlings in any market, but there is no guarantee that you will be sold exactly the varieties that you decide to buy. If you do not want to experience disappointment, breed yourself. Red currant is propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Propagation of red currant by layering.

This is the most simple and effective method culture reproduction. For him, they choose a young bush of three, four or five years, loosen the soil under it in early spring, fertilize it, make grooves 8-10 cm deep in the soil, going from the center of the bush, put well-developed one- or two-year-old shoots in them, securely fix them in several places with metal hooks and cover the middle part of the layers with soil so that their top remains on the surface. When the shoots developing on the layers reach a height of 10-12 cm, they are spudded twice with an interval of 2-3 weeks with moist, loose soil. All summer, layering is watered abundantly, mulching the area around them with organic matter.

In autumn, rooted and sprouted layers are separated from the mother liquor and, dividing them along the length into individual plants with a root system, transplanted to permanent place. In two or three years, the most developed of them will already begin to bear fruit.

Propagation of red currant cuttings.

Cutting too reliable way breeding. It is easier and faster to root lignified cuttings of red currant from annual shoots grown from the root or on two to three-year-old branches. The thickness of the handle should be at least 8 mm, and the length should be 18-20 cm. planting material in the fall, after which the cuttings are laid in a box with wet sand to form the rudiments of roots and kept for 2.5-3 months at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, and then placed under the snow or in the vegetable box of the refrigerator until spring planting.

Plant cuttings in open ground in early spring obliquely at a distance of 20 cm from each other under plastic bottles or glass jars. The depth of immersion of the cutting into the ground is as follows: only two buds should remain above the ground, and the rest are immersed in the soil. The soil around the cuttings is compacted and watered, and when it dries, the area is mulched with humus or fine peat. Rooted cuttings in September are transplanted to a permanent place.

You can propagate currants and green cuttings, however they take too long to form root system to the detriment of the ground part, therefore, they are planted in a permanent place no earlier than a year later, and, therefore, they begin to bear fruit later than red currants from lignified cuttings.

Reproduction of red currant by dividing the roots.

Usually, this method of reproduction is resorted to when there is a need to transplant a currant bush to another place. First, all diseased, old and broken branches are removed from the bush, after which the bush is dug up, divided into parts with a sharp sterile instrument, each of which should have well-developed roots and shoots, then the cuts are processed with crushed coal and the cuts are planted in the prepared holes for 5- 7 cm deeper than the mother bush grew. After planting, the shoots are shortened to 15-20 cm, generously watered and continue to moisten the soil daily until parts of the bush take root in a new place.

Pests and diseases of red currant

Diseases of red currant.

Red currant diseases are typical for all Gooseberries. On our website there is an article "Diseases and pests of gooseberries", which describes in detail all the dangers that await representatives of this family, so we will not dwell on each disease in detail, but simply remind you of them.

So, red currants are affected by anthracnose, white spotting, European powdery mildew, terry (growth, reversion), nectrium drying of shoots, striped mosaic, goblet and columnar rust, gray rot. In the fight against fungal diseases, fungicides such as Bordeaux liquid, Kaptan, Homitsin, Ftalan, Topsin M, Fundazol, colloidal sulfur, Kuprozan and other drugs with a similar effect showed good results. And such viral diseases, like terry and mosaic, unfortunately, no medicine can cure. In the event that the virus has affected only individual branches or inflorescences, cut them out and burn them, but if the entire bush is infected, you will have to get rid of it.

Pests of red currant.

Just like black, white currants and gooseberries, red currant bushes can be affected by blackcurrant fruit, gooseberry yellow and pale-footed sawflies, currant gall midges, glass bugs, bud and spider mites, leaf gall and gooseberry shoot aphids, gooseberry moth, moth and biennial leafworm.

The best insecticides today are Aktellik, Karbofos and Rovikurt. Good results Aktara, Metaphos, Etaphos Ambush, Phosfamid, Vofatox, Tedion, Tsidial, Zolon, Antio and others have also been shown in pest control.

We would like to remind you that mostly weakened and neglected plants are affected by disease or insects, therefore the main protection against diseases and pests is the observance of agricultural practices of the culture and timely care. And, of course, preventive treatments of bushes in early spring and after fruiting will not interfere.

Varieties of red currant

Redcurrant is popular all over the world. AT industrial scale currants are grown in the USA, the Netherlands, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Germany, Great Britain, Latvia and Estonia. The demand for culture is caused not only by its taste, but also by valuable medicinal properties that she possesses. We offer you an acquaintance with the most popular varieties of red currant.

Large varieties of red currant.

Large-fruited currant represented by the following varieties:

• – Viksne– large sweet redcurrant of Latvian selection of early ripening with berries of dark cherry color and sweet and sour taste. Viksne is a winter-hardy and drought-resistant variety, almost not affected by diseases and pests. The yield from one bush is 5-7 kg;
• – Ural beauty- a high-yielding and winter-hardy self-fertile variety with large red berries of a sweet dessert taste weighing up to 1.7 g. The variety is not damaged by sawflies and moths, it is also resistant to powdery mildew;
• – Fertodi- a self-fertile, fruitful, winter-hardy and fungus-resistant variety of Hungarian selection with rounded bright red berries weighing up to 1.2 g of a pleasant sweet and sour taste;
• – Darnitsa- large red currant, the weight of berries of which reaches 1.5 g. A variety of medium ripening, drought-resistant and frost-resistant, high-yielding, rarely affected by diseases. Brilliant dark red berries are used both for consumption in fresh, and for freezing and processing;
• – Rondom– high-yielding, anthracnose-resistant, frost-resistant late variety Dutch selection with large berries of sweet and sour taste, ripening on low compact bushes.

The varieties Asora, Obsky Zakat, Ilyinka also differ in large-fruitedness.

Sweet varieties of red currant.

The most famous of the sweet varieties are:

• – Sugar- fragrant, tasty and sweet red currant, which can be eaten directly from the bush. However, the variety is characterized by low self-fertility, and for good fruiting it needs pollinators - for example, the red currant of the Natalie variety;
• – Red Cross- a variety of medium ripening with large light red berries of dessert taste, shrinking towards the end of the brush. Unfortunately, the variety is affected by anthracnose;
• – early sweet- winter-hardy high-yielding variety, demanding on the care and fertility of the soil, with medium-sized sweet light red berries aligned in size;
• – Svetlana- winter-hardy and productive variety of medium ripening with small rounded berries of light red color with thin skin;
• – Houghton Castle- Western European winter-hardy and productive variety with red berries of medium size and pleasant taste.

Early varieties of red currant.

Red currant varieties of early ripening include:

• – Victoria – high yielding variety of European origin with medium-sized berries of good taste, eaten fresh and suitable for processing;
• – crystal- self-fertile variety with yellowish round berries with a transparent skin of good balanced taste, medium or large size;
• – firstborn- frost-resistant, high-yielding and resistant to fungal infections red currant of Finnish selection, from the bush of which you can pick up to 10 kg of sweet-sour, medium-sized berries that taste good. The variety is a universal pollinator for self-fertile varieties;
• – Serpentine- resistant to diseases and pests, high-yielding variety with large sweet and sour berries located on long racemes;
• – Generous- resistant to anthracnose and bud mites, high-yielding and winter-hardy red currant with light red, moderately sour berries.

Well-known early varieties of red currants are also Dutch red, Early sweet, Laturnais, Chulkovskaya, Rachnovskaya and Konstantinovskaya.

Medium varieties of red currant.

There are much more varieties of red currants of medium ripening than early or late. Of these, most often grown:

• – Versailles Red- productive large-fruited and self-fertile variety with large red berries with a dense skin, used both fresh and processed;
• – Rose- disease-resistant dessert variety with pink one-dimensional berries of medium size, delicate sweet taste with a slight sourness;
• – Buzhanskaya- Ukrainian high-yielding and resistant to mycosis variety with bright red large berries weighing up to 1 g, suitable both for fresh consumption and for freezing and processing;
• – Gazelle- high-yielding winter-hardy and fungus-resistant variety with small, but very tasty red berries;
• – Red Andreychenko- self-fertile, winter-hardy, high-yielding variety, resistant to fungal diseases, with red rounded berries weighing up to 0.8 g, pleasant sweet and sour taste.

In addition to those described, there are other mid-season varieties redcurrant, popular in amateur gardening: Purple, Hero, Gonduin, Reiby Castle, Star of the North, Natalie, Polyana, Samburskaya, Vika, Niva, Beloved and others.

Late varieties of red currant.

Among the varieties of late ripening, most often cultivated in culture:

• – Valentinovka- winter-hardy, high-yielding self-fertile variety, resistant to powdery mildew, with medium-sized one-dimensional berries of a sour taste, with high gelling properties;
• – marmalade- winter-hardy, productive and resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew variety of very late ripening with orange-red berries of sour taste, medium or large size;
• – Osipovskaya- winter-hardy, productive and disease-resistant variety of Russian breeding with dark red berries of the same size and good taste;
• – dutch red- a hardy, unpretentious, winter-hardy, productive and anthracnose-resistant variety of Dutch selection with medium-sized red berries of a sweet and sour taste with a transparent skin;
• – Lapland- winter-hardy, productive self-fertile variety with light red berries of medium and small size and excellent, delicate sweet and sour taste.

In addition to those named, late-ripening varieties Dana, Ogonyok, Orlovskaya Zvezda, Memorable, Orlovchanka, Rosita, Gift of Summer, Ural Dawns and others are grown in the culture.

The best varieties of red currant.

Considering criteria such as the size of the berries, their taste qualities, the amount of vitamins and sugars they contain, as well as the degree of their winter hardiness, the best varieties of red currants can be considered Viksne, Dutch red, Cascade, Ural beauty and Serpentine.

Varieties of red currant for the Moscow region.

Redcurrant is one of the most winter-hardy berry crops, and can be grown successfully in cool climates. Red currant for the Moscow region should have exactly such a quality as winter hardiness. What varieties can we recommend for growing in the Moscow region? The best redcurrant, in addition to winter hardiness, should have other advantages - a fairly large size, a high content of vitamin C and sugars, good taste and, preferably, flavor. Varieties with the listed qualities include the following:

• – Asya- medium-early high-yielding and disease-resistant variety with dark red berries of medium size, sweet and sour taste;
• – Natalie- fruitful self-fertile and winter-hardy variety, which is highly resistant to diseases and pests. The berries of this variety are large, rounded, deep red in color and sweet and sour;
• – Jonker van Tets- winter-hardy, fruitful, disease-resistant self-fertile and early ripening variety with round or almost pear-shaped large bright red berries of a pleasant taste;
• – Rachnovskaya- high-yielding, winter-hardy self-fertile variety, resistant to diseases and pests. The berries of the currant of this variety are medium in size, red, sweet and sour;
• – Hope- extra early high-yielding winter-hardy self-fertile variety, resistant to pests and diseases, with round purple-red berries of medium size, sweet and sour taste and universal purpose.

Properties of red currant

Useful properties of red currant.

Red currant berries are rich in vitamins A, C, E, potassium, iron and selenium, apple and succinic acid, nitrogenous and pectin substances. They are rich in antioxidants that are able to resist cancer cells. What makes red currant useful for humans is primarily the high content of provitamin A in its berries, which is necessary for healthy hair, skin and bones, and also prevents aging.

The presence of the unique substance oxycoumarin in the red currant ensures the prevention of heart attacks and has a positive effect on the activity of the cardiovascular system. People suffering from atherosclerosis are shown daily consumption of red currants because of the pectins in it, which remove excess cholesterol and thereby prevent the formation of plaques in the vessels.

In addition, red currant improves the functioning of the stomach and intestines, increases sweating, which helps to remove excess salts, toxins and toxins from the body. It has anti-inflammatory, choleretic, antipyretic, hemostatic, cleansing and laxative properties.

Regular use of red currant juice normalizes the level of hemoglobin in the blood, relieves constipation and uric acid salts, and helps pregnant women fight the symptoms of toxicosis - nausea and vomiting. Athletes juice helps to maintain tone and restore strength after the competition. Drinking juice reduces the temperature in fevers in children and adults. It is also indicated for anemia, diabetes, loss of strength and chronic fatigue.

Compared to many other berries and fruits useful for the body, red currant is a product that does not allergic- it is prescribed even for dermatitis.

Red currant - contraindications.

But, despite such an obvious benefit of red currant, one cannot remain silent about the fact that it can harm some people. These categories include patients with gastric and duodenal ulcers, acute gastritis, hepatitis, and hemophilia. Regular consumption of red currant is undesirable for people with increased blood clotting.

Red currant - easy to care for, unpretentious plant resistant to both heat and cold. Its berries are very tasty and extremely useful both fresh and in jam.

Red currant - perennial shrub, reaching a height of up to 1.5–2 m, unpretentious and takes root literally on all types of soil, except sandy or swampy. The plant is high yielding. The berry has a characteristic sweet and sour taste and is a true storehouse of vitamin C and organic acids.

And other data varieties are indicated in the article.

How and when to plant

Redcurrant is a sun-loving plant and tolerates drought much better than excess moisture. The reason is a powerful, branched root system. They plant it just in those places where most of the others fruit crops do not want to grow: on hills or gentle slopes, always in areas open to the sun.

What currants do not like is strong winds especially cold ones. Therefore, the site should be chosen so that the bushes are protected from a strong north or east wind. A fence or building is perfect for this.

Best of all, currants take root on loose soils - loamy and sandy loam. If the acidity of the soil is increased at the site, limestone or dolomite flour is added to the soil before planting. In the lowland, the currant, of course, will also take root, but it will be stunted and low-yielding. The plant propagates by seedlings. Two-year-old seedlings with 3 skeletal roots are best suited.

How it happens is indicated in the article.

On the video - red currant, care and cultivation:

It is necessary to plant currants in the fall - from mid-September to the end of October. Planting in early spring before the start of sap flow is allowed. The procedure is the following.

• Prepare the soil for plants - with high acidity, the site is dug up, while adding lime - 300–800 g per square meter. m. Depth - 20–22 cm. With high waterlogging, drainage is arranged.
• They dig holes for bushes: a depth of about 45 cm, dimensions - 55 * 55 cm.
• 1-2 buckets of humus, about 100 g of superphosphate, as well as half a liter jar are placed at the bottom of the pit dolomite flour or chalk, if no digging has been done. You can replace chalk with ash with 1 tablespoon of potassium chloride.
• Fertilizers are covered with earth in a layer of 7–9 cm.
• Landing is carried out after 2 weeks, so that the earth has time to settle. Before planting, seedlings, if they are store-bought, should be kept in water for 2 hours.
• A mound is made in the pit, watered, the seedling is positioned so as to spread the root system, and sprinkled with earth.
• The seedling is placed at an angle of 45 degrees. The root neck should be about 5 cm underground.
• The shoots of the seedling are shortened to 15–20 cm so that 3–4 buds remain on them. Cuttings can be planted in moist soil - 3 buds underground and they will almost certainly take root.
• Currants are watered with water - half a bucket per bush, and mulched after watering with peat, hay or dry leaves so that the soil does not lose moisture. If the roots are exposed during watering, they are again sprinkled with earth, but not compacted.

On the video - caring for red currants:

For the winter, as soon as the soil begins to freeze, the bushes must be hilled up to protect the still weak plant from frost. In the spring, currants are unraveled.

Steps for beginner gardeners

Red currant is a productive plant, so take it under large area there is no need. As a rule, it occupies about 10% of the area intended for berry crops.

Growing a bush so that it gives the maximum yield is quite simple. Currant is really unpretentious.

• Landing in the ground, and not in humus - therefore, holes must be dug in advance, or at least compact the soil over the humus before planting. If the roots of the plant immediately fall into the humus, then in the spring an increase in green mass will begin, but the bush will bear fruit poorly.
• Pruning bush, as a rule, no longer requires, as well as hilling. Currant perfectly tolerates frosts down to -15 C. However, replacement shoots - those that grow out of the ground - should be removed. side shoots it is also desirable to shorten them so that they do not interfere with the development of the main branches.
• How does reproduction take place? The bush is propagated by cuttings. In autumn, lignified shoots are cut, cut to the first bud and shortened if necessary: ​​the length should be no more than 20–25 cm. Then they are planted vertically in the soil so that 3–4 buds remain above the ground.

On the video - caring for red currants in spring:

Currants should not be grown to their maximum height or splendor. A well-bearing bush contains about 10 main branches. With an excess of green mass, the yield will be less.

How to care

Currant care includes several quite standard activities: pruning, top dressing and watering. With proper care, the bush grows and yields up to 20 years.

pruning

Currant branches are replaced only after 7–8 years. Pruning is carried out either in late autumn or early spring, until sap flow begins.

• At the same time, low branches and interfering ones are removed - crossing, too far apart.
• Of course, old or damaged branches are removed. Sections of too thick stems must be treated with garden pitch.
• Lateral shoots are shortened.
• In summer - in July-August, they pinch unnecessary tops so that the bush grows shoots with large quantity kidneys.

On the video - growing red currants:

top dressing

Fertilizers applied before planting are enough for a bush for 2-3 years. Then feeding must be repeated. Fertilizers are applied directly under the bush, carefully so as not to damage the branches. The rest of the soil is dug up.

Autumn digging is a must. In this case, it is worth burying the leaves of the plant to a depth.

• Fertilizers are prepared at the rate of half a bucket of compost, 25 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. m. Top dressing is introduced under the bush, mulched on top. Top dressing is carried out either in early spring or late autumn.
• Potassium chloride is used only in autumn, as the roots of the plant are sensitive to chlorine. In the spring, nitrogenous fertilizers are added to the above: urea - 15 g per square meter. m, or ammonium nitrate - 25 g per sq. m.
• After the flowering of the bush is over, liquid top dressing is applied: 1 kg of litter and 1 kg of mullein per 30 liters of water.

For light soils best result gives a constant liquid top dressing. To do this, annular grooves are arranged around the bush and watered with a solution of fertilizers. The liquid should soak the ground by 40 cm.

Watering

Currant tolerates heat well, however, during the period of ovary and ripening, it needs watering.

• If the winter was snowy enough, then in the spring the bushes are not watered. With little snow in winter and dry spring, watering is carried out as needed. It is advisable to use warm water.
• During the ovary period, the bushes are watered once every 5 days, 1-2 buckets each. Water is poured under the bush so that drops fall on the leaves as little as possible. The soil should be saturated with water by 30–40 cm.
• If there is little rain in autumn, then winter watering is carried out - 1 bucket per bush. Often watering is combined with top dressing.

Pest and disease control

Currants can become a victim of diseases or pests. Bushes should be periodically inspected for diseased and damaged branches and be sure to remove them.

• Kidney mite - it can be detected by strongly swollen kidneys. Such buds do not bloom, but serve as a haven for several thousand ticks. Infected shoots must be removed and burned. After removal, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur at the rate of 10 g of sulfur per 10 liters of water.
• At the same time, before the buds swell, they also treat currant aphids. To do this, the bushes are sprayed with an 8% solution of nitrafen or a 20% solution of chlorophos.
• Terry is a disease in which healthy shoots coexist with the sick. The latter must be cut out and destroyed immediately.
• The fight against anthracnose begins in the spring: the bushes and the soil under them are treated with fungicidal preparations - cuproxate, copper oxychloride. Before flowering, currants are sprayed with a mixture of 80% cuprosan and 1% colloidal sulfur solution. Be sure to treat the underside of the sheet with 1% Bordeaux liquid. The procedure is repeated in full 2 ​​weeks after flowering.
• When defeated powdery mildew spraying with a solution of niftrafen helps. In addition, after flowering, the plants are treated with a 25% solution of caratan.

Caring for red currants is simple and, if the bushes do not get sick, will not take much time. And when good care This solar plant gives constant bountiful harvest over the course of 20 years.

Red currant is a deciduous shrub from the gooseberry family. It allows you to remove everything superfluous from the body, leaving only the necessary trace elements for the normal functioning of the body.

Varieties of red currant

Redcurrant has long been a favorite of many gardeners, and many different varieties have been bred.

Did you know? It is believed that red currant originated from wild currant, which is widespread in the Carpathians and throughout Russia..

Most varieties of red currant are able to self-set berries with their own pollen. This is the ability due to which currants have gained popularity among lovers of fruit and berry crops.

The best varieties of red currant are divided into:

Varieties of early ripening

One of the best varieties of red currant with early ripening is considered "Pink Pearl". This variety has a delicate dessert, very sweet taste. The currant bush is slightly sprawling, rather tall. The fruits are relatively small, able to hang on branches for a long time and not deteriorate. "Pink Pearl" tolerates frost well.

Another of the brightest representatives of the early variety is considered currant "Cascade". The bush is included in the large varieties of representatives of the red currant. The weight of the berry is 1.5 g, the currant tastes sweet and sour, with a long brush, about 10 cm. The variety was bred in the USA, it is practically not affected by fungal diseases and constantly produces good harvest.

Varieties of medium ripening

A very good harvest gives a variety of medium ripening. The variety has one-dimensional, large berries, whose weight is 1.6 g. The berries have a pleasant sweet and sour taste. This variety has a very high yield, about 5 kg per bush. Currants are resistant to fungi, but are sometimes attacked by insects.

Another variety with an average ripening period is "Beloved". He appeared relatively recently, but quickly won love among gardeners and summer residents. The main advantages of the variety include simply excellent productivity. From one bush you can collect up to 12 kg of berries. As in the case of Ilyinka, Beloved has excellent immunity to fungal diseases, and it tolerates winter well.

Varieties of late ripening

To the most prominent representatives late varieties currant ripening can be attributed to "Dutch Red" and "Rondom".

This is a fairly old Western European variety. Currant bushes are quite dense, medium height. The brushes are approximately 8 cm, each holds up to 15 berries. The berries are bright, red, rather large. The variety is considered productive and frost-resistant.

"Rondom"- also a representative of foreign selection. He has medium height bushes, compactly folded, strong branches with shoots. Long brushes can hold about 20 berries. The berries are large, red, with a pleasant refreshing taste. A variety with a very high yield, winter-hardy, can adapt to any soil and climatic conditions, has good immunity to various diseases.

Beneficial features redcurrant and its bright taste make landowners grow it on their lands. However, to get a good harvest, the plant must be properly planted. Let's talk about how to properly plant red currants.

When and where is it better to plant red currants

When choosing a site for currants, you need to remember that currants love a lot of light. Currant bushes are perfect for southwestern and southern sections, and if there is a slight bias, then this is generally ideal. good decision will plant a bush near the fence, but taking into account the fact that the site will be well lit. You also need to remember what kind of soil currant loves; it needs a lot of moisture, so you will need to provide it with enough water.

Important! The best time for planting red currant - autumn.

How to choose the right seedlings

Currants are planted with the help of shoots of seedlings. It germinates best from two-year-old seedlings. Red currant seedlings from which it can grow good bush, must have at least three glued roots. If you are buying a potted plant rather than making your own, be sure to take it out of the pot and check the root system.

Fertilizing and watering the soil before planting

It is necessary to take into account the type of soil in which the planting will be carried out. It is better to think carefully and decide where it is better to plant red currants on the site. Currant bushes love loose loamy soil. Currants do not like soil with a high content of various alkaline impurities at all. Such soil will simply burn the roots, which will lead to the death of the plant.

To plant a bush, you need to dig a hole in a week. This is done so that the earth has time to settle, and the drainage falls into place. The pit should be about half a meter wide, about 40 cm deep. Lay drainage at the bottom of the pit, for example, small pebbles, then compost, which will feed the seedling. If there is a desire and opportunity, then you can add superphosphate with potassium sulfate in a ratio of 1: 2, respectively.

Comprehensive care for red currants

While the currant bush is growing, it needs to be constantly looked after. It is necessary to fertilize the soil, get rid of weeds, and, if necessary, prop up the branches of the bushes.

Weeding and loosening the soil

In order for currants to grow and develop well, the soil around the plant must be kept constantly moist and free of weeds. It is necessary to carefully loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm. Such manipulations should be carried out at least once every 20 days.

In autumn, the ground under the currant should be dug 15 cm around the circumference of the bush.

Watering and mulch

Redcurrant loves moisture very much. The roots of her bushes are located close enough to the surface and cannot provide themselves with access to nutrient moisture from ground water. In case of lack of water, the shrub will gradually dry out, slow down growth and quickly crumble.

Did you know? If you mulch the ground with organic matter, then loosening can be done less frequently.

You also need to use mulch. The best way- mix 50 g of soda ash, 50 g laundry soap and dissolve them in 10 liters hot water. The soil under the bush can be covered with a layer of leaves, grass, peat and hay. Caring for red currants in spring consists in covering the ground with a newspaper if the buds are already swollen. Newspapers can be removed when flowering begins, as during this period insects useful for the bush begin to crawl out of the ground.

Proper pruning and shaping the bush

The most important condition for a good, prolific development of a redcurrant bush is formative pruning. The first time the bush needs to be cut after disembarkation. Cut about half the size of each shoot, but be sure to keep at least 4 developed buds on each shoot. Repeat this process for the next 3 years. Every year you will need to cut out old, diseased or overgrown branches.

Important! Formative pruning can be stopped in the fourth year after planting. By this time, the plant will have finally formed and will acquire developed shoots.

Ways to propagate red currant

It is better to start breeding currants in early spring, even before the buds begin to bloom. Unfortunately, few people know how the red currant reproduces, so mistakes are often made due to which the currant does not germinate in new places. Currants can be propagated:

seeds

In order to be able to propagate currants by seeds, it is necessary best brushes on a bush, tie with muslin and leave until fully ripened. The more time the berries hang on the bush, the better. When the berries are finally ripe, lay them out on a sunny window. When the pulp begins to decompose, mix them with clean sand, rinse and dry. Sow the berries in the garden for germination, after a year transplant them into a permanent place for currant growth.

Lignified and green cuttings

Redcurrant bushes reproduce perfectly with lignified and green cuttings, which are usually transplanted at the end of summer. At the end of August, when the buds are already normally developed, and the tops of the shoots have matured, they are cut off for transplantation. Well-ripened shoots up to 4 years old are suitable for this. The shoots are divided into cuttings 18 cm long and planted directly on the day of harvesting. The kidney must be prepared in advance, well watered and dug up. Planting depth should be such that 1-2 buds remain on the surface, the distance between the cuttings should be about 20 cm.

It gives a much larger yield than, it is more durable, less demanding on growing conditions, suffers less from bud mites and terry. Therefore, experts recommend allocating up to 10% of the land area that you have planned for all berry crops for growing red currants.

At the same time, you need to know that red currants will be easier to grow if they grow in open, well-lit places. Also, redcurrant prefers well-aerated, light sandy or loamy and loose soils. The soil that does not dry for a long time in the spring will not suit her. It is better to plant it in low beds. But a slightly acidic soil with a pH in the range of 6.0 - 6.5 or neutral soil is very suitable for her.

Soil cultivation.

Before planting bushes, the soil must be dug up to a depth of 40 cm, the roots must be selected. The width of the pit for planting is about 60 cm. Compost or rotted manure at the rate of 8-10 kg mixed with potassium sulfate at the rate of 50-60 g and double superphosphate - 30-50 g should be added to the pit for planting currants.

Landing.

Before planting, it is better to remove from the seedling all the buds that you see between the roots and all the buds and shoots on the stem, 15 cm above the roots.

When planting, bury the seedling in the same way as you did so that. Cut out weak shoots, and leave only a few of the strong ones, shortening them to half the length, leaving 5 buds each. Pruning is done on the kidney, which is directed up and out of the bush. From these new branches, the frame of the bush will form.

At the very beginning of summer, those shoots that do not participate in the formation of the bush, shorten to 10 cm, and in the fall, re-forming the bush, repeat the pruning.

Pruning.

If blackcurrant needs to renew fruiting branches every 3 years, then redcurrant branches are replaced after 7-8 years.

Large-scale pruning of red currant branches is recommended either in early spring or late autumn. Slices of large diameter must be covered with garden pitch. And try not to damage 2 - 3 cm of twigs with buds.

Those branches that grow too low or too far or interfere with others by intersecting with them are cut off.

Side shoots that do not form a bush, shorten to 5 - 7 cm. Trim strong shoots to a bud pointing outside the bush.

Cut in half the young shoots on the main branches. To do this, cut them to the kidney, which is directed outward and up the bush.

In July-August, you can pinch the unnecessary tops of soft green shoots. This will activate the “bush work” and allow the redcurrant bush to grow other shoots with an abundance of buds.

Preparation of cuttings.

In autumn, woody cuttings should be cut. Trim at the base of the shoots to the first bud and a thin tip above the strong bud. In this case, the length of the cutting should not exceed 25 - 30 cm. Leave only 4 buds at the top and plant the cuttings vertically in the ground. At the same time, note that between the ground and the lower kidney was about 12 - 15 cm.

Fertilizer.

To grow red currants that bear fruit well for 15 years, you need to make annual mineral and organic fertilizers under the bush

In spring or autumn, per 1 sq. m. you need to make 25 grams of potassium sulfate, 20 grams of superphosphate and half a bucket of compost. Apply potassium chloride in the fall so as not to harm the bush. Additionally, in the spring should be made ammonium nitrate at the rate of 25 grams per 1 sq.m. or urea at the rate of 15 grams per 1 sq.m.

The applied fertilizers should be sealed and loosened under the bush, and dig outside the crown, but without damaging the roots of the bush. After the bush has faded, fertilize with a mixture of 1 kg of bird droppings and 1 kg of cowshed, diluted with 30 liters of water.

Watering.

Although redcurrants need less watering than blackcurrants, they need to be supported during dry periods. Especially she needs such help during the period of formation of ovaries and pouring berries. Good watering at this time - a guarantee that you will be able to grow a good harvest with high-quality berries. Watering the bushes can be combined with its top dressing by making shallow grooves around the bushes with a chopper. When watering the bushes, try not to splash their branches.