How to prepare a window for siding. Window openings with slopes

Today's choice of finishing materials is incredibly diverse. One of them is siding - window slopes with such sheathing will acquire a magnificent appearance and excellent performance characteristics. Therefore, we will discuss how to implement this option on our own.

Why cover window slopes with trim?

Sooner or later, we may be faced with window replacement - basically this forced necessity but sometimes just our whim. In general, the reasons are completely unimportant, the main thing is that the result is the same - decorative trim slopes are broken. Many may believe that it is not necessary to restore it immediately, because it is only a matter of aesthetics. However, it is worth considering that the appearance of both the window and the entire facade of the building as a whole is certainly changing.

But besides this, finishing slopes is mandatory for a number of reasons. For example, their integrity is as important for the thermal insulation of the house as the quality of the windows themselves. After all, if it is broken, then cold air will penetrate into the room, drafts will appear. In addition, do not forget that the mounting foam, which is blown between window frame and opening, is destroyed under the influence of the sun's rays. Therefore, we need additional protection, for this purpose, various materials are used, including siding.

Is siding suitable for window slopes?

So, what exactly is this facing material? The title translates as " outer skin". On the territory of Russia, they first started talking about him not so long ago, about twenty years ago. It is a solid panel certain form. In addition, the process of facing a building with the same material is also called siding.

Siding can be wood, vinyl, ceramic, aluminum, steel, and cement. Each of them has advantages in relation to other types and, of course, disadvantages. The same variety awaits you in the choice of color, its palette simply amazes with the number of shades - even the most picky client will be able to choose the option to their liking.

However, in addition to a rather extensive colors this material has a number of other advantages - for example, you will be pleased with the excellent resistance to various chemical substances and weather conditions. Also, the siding is fireproof, does not emit toxic fumes, does not fade and is not afraid of temperature changes. After such a finish, the sheathed surface still “breathes”. It is very unpretentious in operation, and the installation of such a facing material cannot be attributed to the complex, thanks to which the finish window slopes siding today is so relevant.

Its indisputable advantage is its strength, so that it can withstand moderate mechanical loads quite adequately. Rodents and termites are indifferent to it, so there is no need for additional processing. As the manufacturers promise, this sheathing material is able to retain its original shape and color for as long as fifty years. In addition, it can be attributed to dielectrics.

There are also disadvantages. Firstly, some types, for example, the same vinyl siding, are prone to thermal expansion. Usually it is only a few millimeters, but if mistakes were made during installation, the coating may wave or even crack. Secondly, he is still afraid of significant shock loads. And thirdly, the highest quality products have a relatively high cost.

Finishing slopes with siding - instructions

So, we have considered how important it is to monitor the condition of window openings, we learned a little about the sheathing material. Now let's get acquainted with how to make external slopes from siding with your own hands.

How to finish window slopes with siding - a step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Material calculation

So, in addition to the panels themselves, there are also a variety of components that will greatly facilitate the work. For example, a special profile is attached around the perimeter of window slopes. Its length is 3 meters. Please note that it is very problematic to join the trimmings of this element, the seam will be obvious, which will greatly spoil the appearance of the entire building, and not just the window opening. You will also need a finishing bar, which is attached to the top and sides. window frame. Ebbs and a J-profile are also purchased, with the help of which the corners are installed, if any are needed. In general, we do necessary measurements(length, width and depth of the opening) and in accordance with them we purchase material.

To all the figures received, take a margin of 10%, sometimes in the course of work something deteriorates, breaks, and trimming may also be needed.

Step 2: Picking a Tool

This issue is solved quite easily, since each owner has the necessary things in stock. We will need a screwdriver, hammer, square, level, jigsaw, or else Circular Saw(if neither one nor the other is available, then you can use an ordinary hacksaw or metal shears, only in this case the cut quality will be much worse). You'll also need a tape measure and a pencil, and don't forget to stock up on enough self-tapping screws.

Step 3: Surface preparation

In general, there is nothing new at this stage either - slopes for siding are prepared in the same way as for other decorative finishes. It is necessary to cut off excess foam, remove dust, dirt and other debris.

Step 4: Installing the Drains

It is these elements that should be fixed first, it is quite difficult to underestimate their importance, since they protect the mounting seam, plus they also play the role of sound insulation. So, they are fixed in the following way. As with, these elements should protrude slightly from the wall (no more than 10 cm) and from the ends, so their edges are cut and bent in such a way as to make small borders. Next, the ledge is applied a small amount of mounting foam, the ebb itself slides close under the frame and is fastened with self-tapping screws. At the same time, keep in mind that it is necessary to observe the slope from the window so that the water flows, as expected, to the ground, and not to the window. To prevent the foam from lifting it, you should put some heavy object on its surface and leave it there until the foam dries completely.

We start the side profiles under the top bar, this will provide more reliable protection. In order for the docking to have an aesthetic appearance, the protrusions of the upper bar should be cut at an angle of 45 °. The lower tongues of the sides can be joined either close to the tide, or lowered a little lower. The siding strips themselves are strung from the bottom up on top of each other according to the thorn-groove system. If the latter does not fit on top, it must be cut off.

The work is done. Thus, if you choose as finishing material siding, installation of window slopes is not difficult, and even an amateur can cope with such a task.


Finishing window slopes from the outside with siding is done after the completion of the main facing work and allows you to give the house a finished and neat look. Siding provides additional insulation window openings from action external environment . The installation of this material is quite complicated, since it involves accurate measurements and cutting panels at different angles.

Photo 1. Window - specially conceived in the design of the building architectural detail building: an opening in the wall that serves to let light into the room and ventilation.

Let us consider in detail such stages of facing work as the choice of material, the installation of fasteners, correct markup and cutting siding panels.

The choice of material for exterior window trim

Siding for window slopes, as well as facing material for walls, can be of several types:

  • metal;
  • vinyl;
  • wooden (block house).

There are also such types of cladding as ceramic and cement siding, but due to their mechanical properties, they are not very well suited for finishing window openings. Concerning color solution, then the slopes look original, which stand out in contrast against the background of the wall (photo 1).

When finishing window slopes from the outside with siding, in addition to the facing material itself, you will need to purchase the following fasteners:

  • finishing and window trims;
  • H-shaped and J-shaped profile;
  • low tides;
  • internal and external corners for decorating joints;
  • chamfer.

Required Tools

Necessary set of tools for work: hammer, metal building square, hacksaws with fine teeth, tape measure, level, pencil, screwdriver

To install slopes from siding, you will need quite a standard set tools. It includes a medium-sized hammer, with which it will be convenient to attach the sheathing and siding to the wall, a metal construction square to control compliance right angle installations, hacksaws with fine teeth - one for plastic, the other for metal. For tracking and marking vertical position slope, a tape measure, a long piece of cord or thick synthetic thread, a construction pencil or chalk will come in handy. The presence of a powerful screwdriver in your arsenal will significantly speed up the work, since tightening the screws requires a lot of effort. Helps to control the quality of siding installation building level- without it, it is difficult to determine the horizontal position of the panels.

Slope installation sequence

Sheathing of slopes begins with an audit of the state of the window openings on which the cladding will be installed. When working on the cladding of a new house, this step can be missed, but if you have taken up the slopes of a building that has been in operation for a long time, be sure to pay attention to the presence of cracks in the walls, as they weaken the adhesion force to the crate. If cracks are found, they should be carefully repaired, and after the putty has dried, apply several layers of deep penetration primer to the surface of the window opening. After finishing repair work a crate for fastening the siding is stuffed onto the surface of the wall.

Corners and profiles for fastening facing panels should be cut at a 45° angle. Do it with a regular hacksaw or special circular electric saw with cutting angle control. Such a tool is quite expensive, but for carrying out a large number works can be rented.

The installation of siding around the window may have some features and differences depending on the position of the window opening relative to the main surface of the wall. Due to the fact that the wall of the house has a layer of sheathing, insulation and cladding, the window can eventually be recessed into its surface by 5-19 cm. The structure of the slopes, the presence or absence of some fasteners largely depend on this structure.

Figure 1. Slope scheme when the window is flush with the wall

The simplest version of the slopes is obtained when the window frame is level with the wall (Fig. 1). This situation happens in the absence of a layer of insulation, for example, if the house has internal thermal insulation. The traditional concept of slopes for such a window is used conditionally, since instead of them they use plastic architraves with J-profile.

It is a little more difficult to slope a window recessed into the wall surface at a distance of up to 19 cm. This value corresponds to the maximum allowable depth of a window frame according to European standards, so window trims have maximum dimensions up to 22 cm, taking into account the margin of 1.5 cm for connection with profiles and platbands.

Sometimes there are cases when it is necessary to sheathe windows with siding that are deeper than 19 cm. This is especially true for houses located in a cold northern climate, where it is necessary to set a thick layer of thermal insulation. The standard window trim will be too narrow and will not cover the entire slope space. What to do in this case? This issue is solved very simply: the window trim is cut into pieces, the length of which corresponds to the depth of the slope, and is laid not parallel, but perpendicular to the frame. Thus, it is possible to perform a slope of almost any depth. To fix the outer edge of the slats, platbands in the form of corners are used.

Finishing windows with siding with your own hands is quite simple, it is enough to study in detail the sequence of actions and stock up necessary materials and tools.

Installation of metal and plastic sills

The lower part of the slope must be equipped with a low tide - an external window sill made of steel, aluminum or plastic. It provides protection of the wall and seams from the penetration of atmospheric precipitation.

A wide window sill from the side of the street will give you the opportunity to decorate it in the summer.

The standard width of the tides is from 90 to 400 mm, which is quite enough even for the deepest slope. When finishing window slopes from the outside with siding, the future installation of the ebb should be taken into account, therefore Bottom part window opening may not be sheathed with siding - it will be blocked by an external window sill.

The choice of material for the ebb is quite important process, since the absence of problems in the operation of openings depends on its result. Modern industry produces several types of ebbs, the most common of which are steel, aluminum and polyester. Each type of such window sills has its own advantages and disadvantages, the features of their use depend on the climate and the material from which the siding is made.

Installation of ebbs is carried out using mounting foam, which ensures the tightness of the coating. The edge of the window sill, which is located near the window, is attached to a recess in the frame specially designed for this. At the same time, the opposite edge should protrude a few centimeters above the slope, ensuring the flow of water to the ground, and not to the wall of the house.

When installing any coating outside the house, you should especially take care of its waterproofing. When atmospheric precipitation penetrates into the heat-insulating layer, the latter loses its properties and quickly becomes unusable. The lower part of the slopes is protected by properly installed ebbs, and the side and top may require a waterproofing layer. If you do not save on the quality of siding, window trims and accessories for their fastening, as well as carefully consider the installation, then waterproofing may not be required, which has been proven by the experience of installing slopes in various situations.

In addition to the presence of a waterproofing layer, high-quality installation of the cladding involves the treatment of all joints with silicone sealant.

Conclusion on the topic

Facing the house should not only protect it from the influence of environmental factors, but also look beautiful and neat.

Properly designed slopes emphasize thoughtfulness appearance walls and do not allow water to penetrate under the surface of the siding.

The presence of windows in the house that are not insulated from heat exchange with the street means an increase in heating costs, increases humidity and promotes the development of mold and fungi. Modern materials allow you to negate these problems, providing your home with warmth and comfort.

Increasingly, when carrying out repairs and construction works facade cladding with siding panels is used. This material is very convenient: it is quite simple to install and has an acceptable cost. During the work, difficulties may arise in the design of door and window openings. In most cases, they are also sheathed with siding panels.

Siding

Siding - popular material for exterior finish building facades. It first began to be used in America in the middle of the 19th century. To date, many of its modifications are known. Various materials that make up the panels make it possible to achieve its high strength, endurance, and resistance to sudden temperature changes.

There are several types of siding panels, depending on the composition used for manufacturing:

  • Wooden. The main part of it is treated wood.
  • Woody. It is made from pressed and glued together wood fibers.
  • Vinyl. One of the most popular types of material. Made from polyvinyl chloride. This allows you to achieve its maximum endurance and durability.
  • Metal. Its main component is sheet steel. It is most often used when facing the facades of industrial buildings;
  • Cement. For its manufacture, cement and cellulose fiber are used. Its distinctive feature is the inability to burn. However, during installation, many difficulties arise. This is due to the high weight of the material and its properties.

Siding Properties

Siding is the most commonly used material for exterior decoration of building facades. This is due to its main features:

  • acceptable price;
  • easy installation technology;
  • long service life;
  • resistance to external damage;
  • resistance to moisture;
  • resistance to temperature extremes;
  • resistance to dirt and dust;
  • a wide variety of colors and material modifications.

The nuances of work

Before you start covering the window with siding panels with your own hands, you need to study the basic nuances of the work.

Installation technology depends on the type window construction. It can be made with or without slopes.

If the window opening is made without slopes and has a lower level of recess, it is necessary to use a special siding bar. For sheathing windows with slopes, ordinary siding panels are used.

Preparatory work

How to properly clad windows with siding panels? To do this, you must first accurate calculations quantities of material and basic measurements.

To do this, measure each side of the window. To the results obtained, it is necessary to add 6 cm for the margin. It is necessary for the corner trimming procedure.

In order for measurements to be made most accurately, it is necessary to fix the crate around the window. Trimming of materials is carried out with an additional allowance of 5 mm.

Surface preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully prepare work surface. It should be cleaned of the remnants of the old crate. Remove accumulated dust, dirt, paint and oil stains.

Note! There should be no cracks or crevices on the surface of the walls. They need to be closed with cement mortar or mounting foam.

The work surface must be level. It should be sanded and all protruding parts removed.

To prevent the spread of pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms, the surface is treated with a special antiseptic solution.

Required Tools

To carry out the procedure for sheathing windows with siding panels, you will need the following tools:

  • a hammer;
  • building level. It is necessary to control the evenness of the work performed;
  • square;
  • marking tools (tape measure, cord, chalk);
  • ordinary hacksaw;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • screws;
  • screwdriver

Stages of work

Before sheathing a window with siding on your own, you must first study the main stages of the work:

  1. Surface preparation.
  2. Window insulation.
  3. Waterproofing.
  4. Launchpad installation.
  5. Window siding.
  6. Finishing.

Finishing Features

Sheathing windows with siding is carried out according to two main technologies. Their choice depends on the type of window construction:

  • in-depth window profile having slopes;
  • window with a low level of recess without slopes.

Sheathing of a window opening without slopes

Work should begin with the window insulation procedure. To do this, you can use a roll insulation. It is installed around the perimeter of the window opening. The insulation should be glued to the window surface with adhesive mastic. You can also use dowels to secure it.

If the depth of the window opening allows, full thermal insulation of the openings can be carried out. It consists of several layers:

  • Insulation material.
  • Air bag. Its thickness should be up to 5 cm.
  • Siding panels.

Waterproofing

After completion of thermal insulation work, it is necessary to proceed with the waterproofing procedure. To do this, you need to install a special protective apron. It will protect the window from the penetration of rain and snow.

To work, you will need the following tools:

  1. Foil. You can also use galvanized iron.
  2. Silicone sealant.
  3. Dowels or nails.
  4. Aluminum tape.
  5. Perforator.
  6. A hammer.

Waterproofing a window opening is carried out in several stages:

  1. The installation of the apron should begin from the bottom of the window. To do this, apply a layer of silicone sealant.
  2. Then the installation and fixing of the material is carried out.
  3. After completing the installation in the lower part of the window, it is necessary to proceed to the sheathing of the right and left sides of the window opening. To do this, the surface is also treated with a layer of mastic, then a sheet of material is installed and fixed.
  4. Lastly, the upper part of the opening is sheathed.
  5. After completing the installation of the apron, it is necessary to strengthen upper part. For this purpose, it is glued with aluminum tape.

Sheathing options

Sheathing window siding without slopes is carried out in the following ways:

  • sheathing with siding boards;
  • way of working "overlap";
  • corner method.

The installation process of each of them should be considered separately.

Window siding boards

Stages of work:

  1. The installation process should begin with the installation of the central corner profile. It can be plastic or metal. In some cases, you can use the J rail.
  2. Rail preparation. Corner cuts should be made on the top rail. This is necessary to ensure the flow of water.
  3. The siding board is fixed on the central corner profile. For making joints on the bottom and top boards 45° corners must be cut.
  4. Fixing boards with a joining profile.
  5. Ebb installation for sewage on the bottom board.
  6. Installation of plugs on the side profiles.

Work "overlap"

Sheathing is carried out using siding J rails. They should be selected and cut to the size of the window profile.

  1. Installation and fixing of the upper profile. Installation of a hole for draining wastewater. To do this, it is necessary to make an incision on the profile and bend it.
  2. Installation of side profiles. They must be connected to the bent upper profile.
  3. It is worth remembering that there should be an empty space of about 5 mm between the side and top profiles.
  4. Installation of the lower profile. It is also necessary to maintain an empty space between it and the side profiles of approximately 3 mm.
  5. Installation of siding strips.

Way of working "on the corner"

  1. Installation of the upper fixing profile. Its ends must be cut at an angle of 45 °.
  2. Installation of side profiles. They are cut from the bottom. A gap of 3–5 mm is established between the profiles.
  3. The lower profile is installed without gaps.
  4. Installation of siding panels.

The process of sheathing windows with slopes

feature of this type windows is its in-depth location. Here they can accumulate wastewater. To eliminate this, it is necessary to mount the ebb structure in the lower profile. The drain is cut to the required length. Along the edges it is necessary to install a border that prevents the penetration of water into the profile. To do this, the structure should be bent from the edge.

Note! It is worth remembering that the drainage should have a small protrusion from the wall. Best Option is the installation of a device with a protrusion of 5 to 10 cm, depending on the size of the window.

The drainage is attached to the window surface with mounting foam and fixed with screwdrivers. The structure should be located at a slight angle. This will help drain the water.

To prevent the structure from skewing, it is necessary to install a load on the drainage system for the period of drying of the mounting foam.

After installing the ebb, you can go directly to the finishing procedure. To do this, around the perimeter of the window, you need to install finishing strips. If it is not possible to fix them (for example, when working on metal profiles using body kits), then you can attach the corners mounted from the starting profile to the openings and fix the finishing strips on them.

Installation and fixing upper slope. To do this, you can take a profile or a thin siding panel. An overlap of 5 cm must be made on the side wall.

Installation of side slopes. They should be brought to the top profile. To carry out the joining of profiles, the slopes should be cut at an angle of 45 °. The lower end of the side slope can be connected to the drainage or installed below its level.

After completion of work, the joints should be treated with a layer of sealant.

Window siding - perfect solution to obtain an aesthetic window opening. At observance of the specified recommendations of work the siding profile will serve some tens of years.

Video

You can learn more about the technology of window sheathing from the following video:

Scheme

Gives it neat and attractive appearance. This process is quite simple and can be performed without the involvement of builders. Facing such elements of the house as window openings should be carried out according to existing technology. This small plot will require careful measurements and precise trimming of the material. Let's figure out how to sheathe a window with siding.

Do-it-yourself steel and vinyl siding is offered for cladding buildings. Metal finishes are heavier and more expensive, so more commonly used plastic material. It is resistant to all weather collisions - precipitation, wind, high and low temperatures, lasts a long time and is easy to clean when dirty.

Regardless of the choice of material, the installation of siding on window slopes follows the same pattern.

Training

Before sheathing a window, you must purchase all the fittings and accessories:

  • profile elements;
  • low tide;
  • corner for finishing joints;
  • chamfer;
  • window and finishing strip.

Fasteners and siding must be from the same manufacturer. Only original fasteners are used, otherwise the lining will not be of high quality. Purchase required amount to produce material and accessories at a time, since the finished siding often differs in shade from the main one. count up right amount possible according to the drawing. For calculation, the perimeter of the window is measured and 10% is added for trimming. Siding fasteners are made with self-tapping screws.

Before the start of the sheathing, the surface of the slopes is prepared, and if necessary, plaster is applied. The surface is primed to protect slopes from microorganisms. Work on the cladding begin after drying.

Instruments

  1. Metal shears for cutting siding.
  2. Angle for marking.
  3. Hammer for mounting the crate.
  4. Level.
  5. Two hacksaws: for metal and woodworking.
  6. Knife for cutting the fold of the siding panel.
  7. Cord and chalk for beating levels.

Window protection

Initially, it is necessary to protect window openings from precipitation. To do this, an apron made of aluminum foil or thin iron is installed around the perimeter. The strips are superimposed on each other, smeared with sealant and nailed. The edge is protected with aluminum tape. The manufactured apron is not attached to the window frame.

  1. "At the corner." Four J-profiles are selected according to the height and width of the window. The ends of the top bar and the lower part of the side profile are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Cut off only the front inner corner is not affected. An incision is made along the width of the upper profile for water drainage and is bent into a side profile, which is wound under the upper one. The connection of all parts of the frame is made with a gap of up to 5 mm for thermal expansion. The drain is attached to mounting foam and additionally fixed with self-tapping screws.
  2. "Overlap". The top, bottom and two side J-profiles are taken. The top element is cut in width and folded inward to drain water. The bent edge is inserted into the side profile. A gap of 3-5 mm is observed between the elements, giving room for expansion. The lower profile is inserted with a gap of 2–3 mm.

If the recess of the window opening is less than 19 cm, you can use a specially made window strip. Its edges are covered with a finishing profile or a J-profile with a chamfer.

Windows with slopes exceeding a width of 20 cm

Work begins with the installation of low tide. It runs 2 cm wider than the slopes. In the manufacture of a metal tide to fit the window, the side parts are not cut off completely, the remaining strips are unbent vertically and fastened with self-tapping screws to the walls. Before fixing the ebb, liquid nails are applied to the area adjacent to the wall.

In the case when the window is deepened by more than 20 cm, a crate is installed. A right angle is determined and screwed along it start profile. The slopes are lined with siding, and the perimeter joints are closed with an outer corner.

No gaps should be left at the points of attachment to the siding profiles; the fixation must be rigid.

When facing a semicircular window, a flexible J-profile is used. In the absence of an elastic element, you can take a regular one and notch along the bar. When attaching the profile, a step of 15 cm is observed.

Rules that can't be ignored

  • You need to purchase only galvanized self-tapping screws, as they do not rust from moisture.
  • Tighten fasteners at a right angle, any distortions reduce the strength of the structure.
  • Holes for self-tapping screws have an elongated shape that ensures the mobility of fasteners during expansion. Tighten the self-tapping screw not completely, leave a gap of 1 mm.
  • The gaps between the profiles allow the structure to expand without problems when heated.

Installation of siding near window openings is a difficult section of cladding, in order to know how to properly finish, you can familiarize yourself with the video lesson.

Video

This video shows how to trim a window with siding with your own hands:

A photo

Such construction material, like siding, entered the market, in fact, not so long ago, but has already managed to gain wide popularity. AT recent times it is increasingly being used not only for the exterior decoration of industrial and office space, but also for the design of residential buildings and, in particular, for exterior finish window openings.

What are the advantages of this material over others? Is this material really so good that it can be used to finish residential buildings from the outside, and how feasible is it to finish window openings with your own hands?

Benefits of siding

It is an almost universal, non-toxic and non-flammable material. It is light, does not corrode, does not lose its shape and does not crack in the cold. Does not lose color over time and does not require painting. Modern construction market offers siding in a wide range of colors. If desired, finish with siding window openings- this is an additional plus, since it is possible to create a pleasant contrast between common color walls and the color of window slopes.

Modern industry produces several types of siding, each of which has its own application.
The lightest, cheapest and most popular - plastic siding. It is most widely used in low-rise construction especially in the construction of private houses. It is easiest to “update” and insulate old buildings today also with the help of siding. Firstly, under the siding, just hide the sheets of insulation, and secondly, old house really looks new and well maintained.


In addition, plastic siding is a very plastic material and with its help you can decorate not only straight, but also rounded walls and even arched window openings.
Plastic is a completely unattractive material for insects and rodents. It does not conduct electricity and does not support combustion. special care behind the siding is also not required. Dust and dirt on its surface almost do not accumulate, and it is enough to periodically simply wash the walls with a watering hose.

metal siding

This type of siding is made from rolled steel. Its main area of ​​application is industrial facilities. While maintaining all the advantages of PVC siding, metal is much more durable and resistant to mechanical damage. Non-flammable and therefore ideal for arranging gas stations and car washes.

wood siding

The basis of this material is wood fibers with the addition of special resins. It is beautiful, but is currently significantly inferior in popularity to PVC. The whole point is that wood siding rather expensive material, and the service life is short. At least, it is not suitable for facing rooms from the outside or decorating window openings from the side of the street.


aluminum siding

This material has a wide range of applications. It is lighter than metal and less prone to corrosion.

cement siding

Produced using cellulose fibers and cement. This material is good for renewing the facades of old buildings and leveling walls; It is not flammable and is not afraid of mold or fungus. However, it is difficult to handle, has a large weight and high cost. It is inexpedient and inconvenient to use it for finishing the slopes of windows.

The name of this material speaks for itself. Best Use for him - the lining of the basement of buildings, which is most exposed to atmospheric influences.

The easiest and most profitable way to finish window slopes vinyl siding, which is the easiest to process and maintain, has a wide color palette and relatively inexpensive. If desired, metal siding can also be used for this purpose, but steel panels are heavier, more expensive and more difficult to process.


Material calculation

When the final choice of material has been made, it is necessary to calculate how much siding, in fact, will be required to finish all the windows, and at the same time doorways. After all, in order for the house to have a complete look, the finishing of the slopes of windows and doors must be done in the same style.

For the calculation, it is necessary to accurately measure the perimeter of all window openings. Only the distance under the windows should not be taken into account. In these places, not siding strips will be mounted, but window sills and ebbs. The same principle is used to measure front door. Experts advise adding about 10% more to the figure thus obtained as a margin for trimming.

In addition to the siding itself, the quality of the finish of window openings largely depends on the quality of the fasteners. From how much quality materials will be used in the work, not only the beauty of the cladding depends, but also its strength. Therefore, experts recommend purchasing original fasteners in advance, designed specifically for the selected type of finishing material. Otherwise, you can not count on the durability of the finish.


Regardless of whether you invited professionals to carry out the work or decided that finishing is quite feasible with your own hands, for high-quality siding of window openings, you will need special fittings and fasteners:

  • H-profile or connecting strips (hide the seams between the panels, and are also used when increasing the length or transitioning from one color to another);
  • J-profile or wind strip (designed for finishing roof eaves, but in fact, an almost universal element that skillful hands can easily replace window sills and some other elements);
  • start and finish bars;
  • outdoor and inner corners for decorating panel joints;
  • window sills;
  • chamfers;
  • ebbs.

If the window decoration will be done by hand, you should take care of the presence of a metal square in order to be able to mark the installation angles of the material on the slopes.
In addition, you will need:

  • medium-sized hammer;
  • two hacksaws with small teeth (one for metal, the second for plastic);
  • tape measure and twine or thick twine for marking;
  • construction pencil or piece of chalk;


  • screwdriver;
  • building level.

Colour fixing accessories should be in harmony with the color of the facing panels. In other cases, if it is provided for by the design of the building, you can choose fasteners in a contrasting color or shade.

Professionals recommend using a standard metallic profile. Nevertheless, in order to save money, it is possible to use wooden beams for these purposes. You just need to remember that wood is very susceptible to moisture, and if you take it for fastening wooden beam, then perfectly dried, and also treated with a special water-repellent impregnation.

Most often, windows are located relative to walls in the following ways:
- windows go deep into the walls at a distance of 5 to 19 cm;
- the window opening is flush with the wall, without slopes;
- windows deepen more than 19 cm.

In addition, arched or lancet windows deserve special attention.

With each type of window arrangement in the wall, the process of sheathing slopes with siding will have its own nuances.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carefully check the condition of the slopes. Of course, if you have to finish window openings in a new building, you can skip this procedure.


But in the case when we are talking about an old house, we must without fail pay attention to whether there are cracks in the slopes. They can weaken the adhesion to the crate. Existing cracks must be puttied, and after the putty dries, the surface repaired in this way must be carefully primed several times with a deep penetration primer.

If the windows are made in accordance with European building standards, then they go deep into the walls by no more than 19 cm. In this case, window sills will also be needed standard sizes, up to 22 cm. Decorating window openings with siding, even with your own hands, will not be very difficult.
To attach the window sill to the frame, a finishing profile is used, into which the window sill is then inserted.

However, since in the CIS building codes different from European ones, the window openings of buildings are often much deeper than 19 cm. Especially when it comes to old buildings, the facades of which are supposed to be updated with siding.
In this case, corners are mounted along the perimeter of the window opening. A J-profile is attached near the frame, and outer corners along the perimeter of the window opening.


Then prepare the siding panels by cutting them to required size, and decorate the window slopes with them, inserting them into the grooves of the fixed fittings around the opening.
In fact, this option for arranging windows is the most difficult to finish the slopes on your own. But even in this case, it is quite possible to finish the siding with your own hands and save on inviting specialists. It is more difficult to finish only the openings of arched and lancet windows.

The easiest option for arranging windows for decorating them with siding is on the same level with outer surface walls. In this case, experts recommend purchasing a platband with a width of 62 mm. This will focus on window openings in overall design facade.
First, the platband itself is mounted, and the trim panels are already inserted into it.
You can also choose an inconspicuous option for finishing window openings. Then, instead of a platband for fastening around windows, a universal J-profile is chosen.
This option for arranging windows is the simplest and in terms of the possibility of doing the work with your own hands.

The most difficult option for performing work on the design of external slopes is when the windows have the shape of an arch.


To finish such windows, siding manufacturers produce a special flexible J-profile, but you can also successfully use a regular one instead. Only along the perimeter of the arc it will have to be cut, exposing it along the rounded part of the opening.

At the same time, it is important to take into account the advice of professionals who recommend making cuts on the profile every 20 cm in order to avoid cracking of the fittings.

On construction sites that are rich in the World Wide Web, you can find many practical advice on how decorative finishing of window openings is done using siding. Many of these sites even contain detailed photo and video instructions for doing the work yourself and for different options window locations. However, there are general rules, a kind of instruction, following which you can always get excellent result and beautifully sided windows.

  • You should not save on fasteners such as dowels and screws. They need to be galvanized. Otherwise, over time, rust will begin to appear on them.
  • Self-tapping screws should not be screwed into the material until it stops. Be sure to leave a gap of 1 mm for the expansion of the material.


  • Screws must be screwed in straight, not at an angle.
  • The self-tapping screws should easily be screwed directly into the center of the fastener holes in the panel. Otherwise, the siding panel or fittings may crack, which will subsequently lead to their deformation.
  • In the process of joining the fittings, the corners are cut at 45 degrees.
  • If parts of the planks to be joined are adjacent to the slope, then on one plank the part adjacent to the slope is cut at an angle, and on the second plank this part is tucked. This makes it possible to achieve a tighter connection of fittings and avoid cracks and gaps.

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