The correct angle of a frame house. Warm corner of a frame house: design options and materials

Today, this type of construction, such as the construction frame houses, became very popular. This is due to simple technology and the ability to do the work yourself.

A logical question arises: how, where to start, what to pay special attention to. Many people are concerned about how to secure a frame house. To answer all these questions, consider possible options frame construction.

Common construction methods

Diagram of corner connections in a frame house.

Everyone has heard at least once about the frame-panel construction method, but it is unlikely that they delved deeply into its essence. This method involves carrying out work using materials delivered to the actual construction site. This list includes beams various designs, thermal insulation and vapor barrier material, roofing elements, fasteners, etc.

Usually this option is carried out by professional builders in strict accordance with the project. All parts of the house have special markings, with the help of which builders connect them into a single whole. Sheathing finished frame is carried out using OSB boards, followed by work on thermal insulation and wiring of various types of communications. And after all this work is completed, you can begin internal as well as external finishing works. Of course, it is not possible to do without installing the roof; in individual cases, the issue of designing the area adjacent to the house can be resolved.

Another method, frame-panel, involves assembling ready-made panels, including frame parts, insulating material, etc., directly at the factory for their production. Ready-made parts and blocks of the future house are delivered to the construction site. These include steps equipped with windows and doors, pediments, roofing elements, floors, etc. The assembly of such a house is carried out very quickly - in a maximum of a week. The building turns out to be beautiful, cozy and, of course, very warm, which is important.

Any kind frame building includes in its design walls (external), partitions, ceilings and roofing. All these important elements are arranged according to the same scheme. The frame is made of wooden beams and is subsequently sheathed on both sides with any sheet material. The void created inside is filled with modern and sufficient effective materials thermal insulation.

Both of these technologies are quite common in our time and are considered the most promising in the field of private housing construction.

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Technological procedure for the construction of frame houses

Construction frame-panel houses, this is, in fact, the assembly of a house from pre-prepared boards, similar to the LEGO set.

Before you begin construction, you need to take care of preparing the site and the materials you will need during the work process.

1. The first priority will be building the foundation. After it is filled, you need to wait approximately 7 days. Everyone knows that the foundation gains the necessary strength only after 30 days, but despite this, the construction of a frame house can begin within a week. Your actions will not be destructive to the foundation; even professionals are of this opinion. For subsequent fastening of the lower trim made of timber to the frame, you can place special pins in it at the time of pouring the grillage. It is with their help that the fastening will be carried out. One end of the stud should be recessed into the foundation, and the other should be located vertically to its surface. The height of the stud (anchor) must be at least 10 cm. Please note that this is the height of the outer part; the anchor goes deeper into the foundation by the same value (10 cm).
2. Having finished with the foundation, you need to take care of purchasing material for the frame. Wooden blanks the frame will subsequently be sheathed using OSB boards, which means they should also be purchased in advance.
3. All wooden elements the future frame must be treated with an antiseptic composition before completion installation work, since it will be much more difficult to subject an already assembled frame to this procedure.
4. Prepare materials for waterproofing in advance. Usually this is roofing felt. Even the cheapest of its types is ideal for this stage.
5. You also need to take care of purchasing various fasteners in advance. It is difficult to determine how many of them you will need, since these fasteners break quite often, so think about the amount of stock in advance. Standard option provides for the purchase of fasteners in the following quantities: nails - 50 mm (1 kg), 100 mm (3 kg), 120 mm (5 kg); self-tapping screws - 50 mm (100 pieces), 100 mm (500 pieces). It is usually not difficult to purchase this mounting material.
6. Now about the tools. You will most likely need:

• axe;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• drill;
• building level;
• square;
• drills of different sizes;
• Fomka and some others.

1. Thermal insulation material is also purchased in advance, since the size of the frame will depend on its quality, more precisely, thickness. Thicker material for thermal insulation requires larger size frame.

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Fastening points during the construction of a frame house

As it became clear from the above information, a frame house is durable and economical, and its construction does not take much time. But in order for your house to fully comply with these characteristics, you need to take care of the correct assembly of the fastening points of the frame building.

This process is quite complex, so before starting construction, it is best to carefully study the technology for assembling components.

The roof of a frame house can be covered with any materials that the developer likes. The main thing is that this process is carried out in compliance with all norms and rules.

Those who understand little about construction work, may wonder what fastening points are. The answer is simple: these are the connections between structural parts throughout the house. The most basic of them are floors, roofing system and walls. Moreover, each of these main units has a number of important nodal fastenings in its design.

Below is a list of the most basic fastening points in a frame structure from bottom to top:

• fastening the bottom frame made of timber to the surface of the foundation; here you can also note the joining of the beams of the bottom frame to each other in corner joints;
• installation of vertical racks; Please note that the racks are installed first corner view, only then - the remaining non-corner posts;
• fastening the top trim made of timber; performing this task involves the same method as attaching vertical posts to the bottom trim;
• connections, the function of which is to strengthen the frame structure in horizontal and vertical planes; this will help the frame to be more stable, rigid and easier to withstand negative impacts of various origins;
• attaching ceiling beams to top harness from timber.

• first of all, this is the connection of the rafters and the top trim;
• Next comes the connection of the rafters themselves in a place called the ridge;
• connection of rafters and crossbar;
• fastening the counter-lattice and rafters;
• and finally, the connection between the sheathing and rafters.

All of the above fasteners are load-bearing in nature; they will be responsible for the strength of the entire building structure. But at the same time, you should not lose sight of secondary fastening points, which include logs and interfloor ceilings.

For the purpose high-quality fastening for connection various parts are used special elements fasteners Their development and production are carried out in strict accordance with the specifics of these works. Read more about these important elements below.

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Fasteners for the construction of frame houses

As already noted, for the reliability and high strength of a frame house structure, it is necessary to use only high-quality fasteners designed specifically for these purposes. Each fastening point involves the use of an individual type of fastening elements. Using them as fasteners, you can avoid complex connections, such as inserting or installing various so-called locks.

1. The material for the manufacture of such fasteners is cold-rolled steel. The thickness of the workpiece varies from 2 to 4 mm. Depending on what type of fastening one or another is intended for fastener, its size directly depends, structural form, number and size of perforations and the presence of stiffeners.
2. As for the perforation, focusing on its size, determine the thickness of the nails or bolts suitable for this fastening, and, of course, their number. This option allows you to determine without hesitation required quantity nails (bolts), which will be needed to securely fix the connection, and you will also avoid cracking of the wooden components of the frame.
3. The coating of fasteners varies, but in any case they undergo anti-corrosion treatment. Most often this is either a zinc surface, or primed, or using polymer-powder paint.

As mentioned above, this kind of connecting fasteners saves you from numerous and quite complex node connections that require certain skills. This is the implementation of a half-tree type insertion or the implementation of tightening locks. By making such connections, you reduce the strength wooden structure, since there is a reduction in the cross-section at the junction of the two parts. But the use of steel fasteners only increases reliability, creating additional reinforcement connections.

The material component (I mean building materials) along with labor costs constitutes the main part of the entire process of building a frame house. And often when we build frame houses with our own hands, we rely on standard solutions and options for frame house components. Although in any frame house there is room for saving materials, human resources, and minimizing waste.

Today I want to introduce you to one technique developed in the USA back in 1973. Yes, there is no need to be surprised this year, since in our country the technology of low-rise frame housing construction is only gaining momentum, and the first books in the USA with the main components and methods are dated 1840. By the way, much of this has survived to this day practically unchanged.

So, to the point: the essence of the technique comes down to the fact that at the design stage, you need to pay your attention to some components of the frame house, some construction technologies and standards of materials used. Below I will give specific practical examples, thanks to which you will understand how to minimize the consumption of materials, waste and save on labor costs.

We design a house “in a line”

The essence of this design method is very simple: when designing your house, try to arrange the floor beams, wall studs, floor beams and rafters on top of each other (in a line). This construction method allows you to evenly transfer the load to the frame and get rid of the second board in the lower and upper trim of the frame walls. Keep in mind that if when designing the frame “in line” it does not work out, then the second board in the lower and upper wall trim is MANDATORY, because This important element load-bearing structure Houses. The figure on the left clearly shows the essence of designing a house frame “in line”.

The pitch of the racks and their number in the wall of a frame house

Usually, when designing and building a house with our own hands, we are most often guided by our creative ideas, fortunately, frame (or as it is also called “Canadian”) technology allows us to practically any, even the most daring project.

The second thing you need to pay attention to when designing your home is the number of studs in the frame wall. In terms of saving materials, this issue is closely tied to the standards of materials produced by our industry. On at the moment we are interested in materials for external wall cladding, namely those that have gained lately popularity OSB boards. There are two most used standards for these slabs: 1220 x 2440 and 1250 x 2500.

The pitch of the racks in the wall of a frame house is usually 400 or 600 mm, depending on the cross-section of the lumber used. Step 400 mm. usually taken as a basis when using timber 100 x 40 mm, and a pitch of 600 mm. can be found in a frame using timber with a section of 150 x 40 mm.

So: when designing a frame wall, and specifically its length, you should keep in mind that it MUST BE A MULTIPLE OF 1.2 M (which is two openings with a wall pitch of 600 mm and three with a wall pitch of 400 mm). This technique allows you to get rid of non-standard (additional) openings in the walls frame structures and also minimize waste of OSB sheets used for outer skin walls

With the standards of window and door units, everything is a little more complicated. Outdated standards no longer cover all construction needs. And if we compare windows made of wood and plastic, then probably most of us will prefer the latter for ease of use and durability. And their prices are constantly falling due to extensive competition and the introduction of new technologies. Therefore, we will focus on “plastic”, but this does not mean that the technique is not compatible with wooden window and door blocks.

So, what do you need to consider when placing window and door units in the frame walls of your home?

Try to fit your window and door blocks into the openings between the MAIN racks of frame walls. Thus, you will get rid of additional racks required when constructing openings.

An example is window units, fit into the opening of standard racks of 1.2 m (with a pitch of racks of 600 or 400 mm), or a window or door block fit into the opening between the racks of 800 mm. (with a rack pitch of 400 mm), etc. Be creative about this issue. Well, based on the available building materials too.

There is also no need to make double racks on the sides of doorways, in internal unloaded walls, and the use of lightweight interior doors. And if the doors are still massive, a double post is made only on the hinge side.

And of course, you shouldn’t make gross mistakes when window and door openings on the sides fit into additional racks! If your plan does not allow placing all window and door blocks in the openings between the main posts, then AT LEAST ONE SIDE of the door or window opening must be tied to the main post.

Thus, we save on building materials by using the main frame wall posts (or not using additional ones) for window and door openings.

Lintels over openings

Jumpers in doors and window openings necessary. And often they are assembled from the same materials as the walls themselves; it is enough to nail a piece of plywood or OSB from leftovers into the opening. The point is again very simple: with an opening width of up to 900 mm. plywood is nailed on one side (outer), and with an opening of up to 1.2 m on both sides. Another advantage (besides saving materials) is that we get space for thermal insulation, which, if timber is used, remains uninsulated.

Internal partitions

As you know, walls in a house can be load-bearing and partition walls. Load-bearing walls are an integral part of the load-bearing frame and serve to transmit and resist vertical and horizontal loads. Partitions do not have a force behind them, and serve exclusively for zoning residential (and non-residential) space in the house.

Almost always internal partitions are performed using timber 100 x 40 because there is no need for so much insulation in interior walls ah, unlike the external ones.

One more thing" weak point"occurs when a partition is adjacent to an external wall. When designing, try to ensure that the partitions (internal walls, including load-bearing ones) fall on the main pillars of the wall frame if possible. If this is not possible, then a horizontal jumper is used to secure the internal walls , located between the main posts of the outer wall.

Additional boards in this place serve solely to provide a place for fastening internal lining Houses. This problem is eliminated by installing special clamps for fastening drywall or plywood (depending on the materials you have chosen for cladding inside walls). You can visually see how this works in the figure on the left.

To summarize: savings in materials on this point are achieved through proper articulation of internal walls into external ones and the use of less material in unloaded internal walls (partitions).

Corners of a frame house

Oh, corners! I swear, not many of us have ever thought about how many of them there are in the house? Even in relatively small project the number of angles can reach 30-40.

In almost all materials for frame construction, the corners are assembled from three boards. In fact, two of them serve to join the walls together, and the third is necessary to form a plane for attaching the internal wall cladding.

By analogy with the previous point, the third board in the construction of the corner of a frame house can be replaced with special clamps for drywall or plywood, which are attached directly to the rack. Alternatively, you can use scraps of plywood to create space for attaching the interior sheathing. By the way, this method frees up additional space for laying thermal insulation in the corners of the house, which almost always remain uninsulated.

Saving one rack from each corner is a definite plus. The only question that remains open is the reliability of such a scheme for assembling corners in a frame house. According to the authors of the methodology, this option for assembling corners can be used without losing the strength of the walls and, in general, the load-bearing frame...

Instead of an epilogue...

Thus, savings on materials and waste minimization can amount to impressive values, and as a result, significant savings in money and labor resources. Without losing, again, I repeat, the strength characteristics of the house frame. Remember: Impromptu is only good if it is well prepared!

Frame houses made from sandwich panels are warm, light, suitable for self-construction. Frame-panel technology has existed for more than 60 years, often called Canadian. On the territory of Russia, buildings were traditionally built from concrete and brick, and light frame buildings began to spread only in the last decade.

Choosing a place to build a house on a site is part of drawing up a comprehensive site development plan. The location of the necessary outbuildings, as well as everything that is needed for comfortable life family must be linked to clear, convenient diagram.

The habits and preferences of residents should come first. Some people cannot imagine life without. Create cute landscape design or create beds with cucumbers? When opening the gate, should you drive straight into the garage or walk along a paved path into a gazebo covered with plants, and leave your car under a canopy? These issues are decided at the planning stage. In addition, there are construction requirements that must be completed.

These standards include:

• building standards settlement. The building boundary of the street, the red line, requires a retreat of at least 5 m. The distance between the house and the boundary of the neighboring plot is taken from 3 m;
• fire safety standards. Buildings are divided according to the fire resistance class of the materials used. Between buildings made of non-combustible materials - stone, brick, concrete, there is a 6 m retreat. When erected from combustible materials - logs, timber, the distance between the walls of neighboring buildings increases to 15 m;
• sanitary standards. There is a 10 m gap between residential buildings and a power line with a power of 20 kW. The distance from the residential premises to the place where animals are kept is taken to be at least 20 m.

The main wind load should fall on the corner of the house; windows on the south side will fill the house with sunlight.

Utility lines run along the boundary; the location of the house nearby will allow you to save on connecting to networks.

Frame house projects

Drawing up a project has many nuances and requires special knowledge. Correctly calculate wind and snow loads, select the type of foundation according to the characteristics of the soil, the size of the building only an engineer can. Individual project ordered by the design organization. You can choose yourself standard project, concept, layout of interior spaces, materials for construction. Construction and architectural companies post ready-made projects on websites for example.

Conventionally, the premises can be divided into basic and additional.

The main ones include premises that you cannot do without in life:

• hallway. Located behind entrance doors, in addition to the main function, serves as a buffer zone to preserve the microclimate;
• kitchen. To save space, it is often combined with the dining room, sometimes with the living room;
• bedroom. A room that allows each family member privacy;
• corridor, toilets, bathroom, boiler room.

Additional premises depend on the needs and welfare of the residents. This is an office, a library, dressing rooms, winter gardens, storage rooms.

Engineering networks

Connection engineering communications to frame houses has its own characteristics. The main emphasis must be placed on the safety of electrical wiring and smoke exhaust pipes.

Important! The biggest danger for a frame house is fire. Incorrect installation of wiring and chimney - common reason fires.

Electricity supply

A high-quality cable is not a material you should skimp on. Hidden wiring laid inside the walls, between the counter-lattice and the insulation. The wire cross-section is calculated with a large margin; heating of the cable is not allowed even during a short-term overload.

All provisions required by the project are strictly used fuses, protective devices . The connections are made with high quality, without twists or insulating tape. Additional measure is cable pulling corrugated.

Heating, water supply

If there is no central gas supply, boilers using solid and liquid fuels are installed. Chimneys must be double-circuit, insulated, factory-made, and certified. Pipe joints in the ceiling are not allowed. Under heating device design separate boiler room with non-flammable finish.

If there is no separate room at the boiler installation site, the following fire safety standards are observed:

• reliable, durable, non-sagging base;
• finishing walls and ceilings with fireproof materials;
• steel pre-furnace sheet in front of the firebox to prevent accidental sparks.

Pipes are routed from the boiler to radiators or heated floors, disassembly points hot water. Water supply pipes are also laid inside sandwich wall panels.

When laying they are used PVC pipes. Number of joints, places where pipes pass through frame posts minimize.

Before covering the wall, the system is pressed and tested for strength with high pressure.

Identified defects are eliminated. There are no special requirements for sewer installation.

Ventilation

Contrary to the belief that a frame house “breathes”, ventilation of a frame house is essential, since the wall sandwich panels are covered from the inside with a film that is sealed and airtight.

At natural ventilation The influx of fresh air comes through windows, doors, and comes out through the hood of the kitchen and bathroom. Recommended additional installation ventilation valves in the walls, plastic windows.

Forced ventilation with pipes located under the ceiling of rooms connected by a fan in the roof will provide fresh air, but not everyone can afford it. An alternative would be wall exhaust fan.

Foundation for a frame house

The Canadian house is lightweight; reinforcement of the foundation for construction is not required. The following are used in construction constructive solutions foundation:

• tape. Reinforced concrete strip is poured around the perimeter of the house;
• pile. It is divided into bored and screw. Using the bored method, a metal frame is inserted into the hole and filled with concrete with intermediate compaction. Screw piles metal, screwed into the ground. The tops of the piles are connected with a grillage, which connects the elements to provide rigidity.
• slab. Reinforced reinforced concrete slab poured under the entire building, used on weak peat soils. The most expensive method in terms of amount of material and labor intensity.

All technologies are simple and suitable for self-construction.

Pile foundations are economical. The optimal solution in difficult conditions - stable on floating, subsiding soils, high level groundwater, changes in relief on the site.

Construction of the foundation begins with. After determining the location of the piles, drilling of wells begins.

The amount of depth depends on geological conditions. The base of the pile must rest on dense soil and be below the freezing point of the soil.

IN manual drilling holes, two types of tools are used:

1. Hand drill requires physical effort to overcome soil resistance. The best choice is the TISE drill. The main difference of such a drill is the expansion of the lower underground part of the well. The expansion filled with concrete creates additional area element supports. TISE is an abbreviation of the name “Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology.”
2. IN mechanized In hand-held drilling tools, the auger is driven by a motor. The main task of the workers is to hold the drill vertically. When drilling hand tools two people required.

At the bottom of wells they arrange sand cushion. The layer thickness is taken to be 30 cm, the sand is thoroughly compacted. The next step is installation reinforcing frames. Then comes the filling concrete mixture, layer by layer, with compaction and air release. At this point, the underground cycle of work is completed, the concrete is left until it gains strength.

Bottom rail and floor

The bottom trim is the element connecting pile heads into a single structure, serving as the basis for the floor and frame. It is made along the perimeter of the walls from timber with a section of 200 x 200 mm or composite boards of the same section.

Important! The bottom trim and floor joists are laid over waterproofing and thoroughly impregnated with an antiseptic.

An interesting solution is the use of a composite beam using American technology. The method gives increase in strapping strength by 15%. Three boards are fastened together with nails and glue with a layer of plywood. Board dimensions 40 x 150 mm, plywood thickness 12 mm.

A dry board does not deform and does not change its geometric cross-section. This is important, since all the walls of a frame house rest on bottom trim. The joint of the boards at the corners is covered with a board overlay.

Floor joists are attached to the framing beams at intervals of 60 cm, slab mineral insulation is laid between them, and tongue-and-groove floor boards are laid on top.

Creating a frame

Frame-panel houses are built using two technologies: American and Canadian. Both are based on the same principle, with several design differences.

Reference. According to American and Canadian technologies, there is no timber in the installation of the frame; only boards are used. In nodes that require an increase in cross-section, the size is increased layer by layer.

Construction is carried out using the “platform” technology; the wall is assembled in a horizontal position and mounted as a single panel. Balloon technology, in which each rack is set separately, did not receive distribution.

The frame using both technologies is mounted from dry lumber.

Installation step and cross-section of racks

The frame uses boards with a section of 40 x 150 mm. Stands are attached with with the help of three 90mm nails at an angle. The pitch of the racks along the axes is 615 mm.

This size is optimal for fastening OSB and laying slabs of mineral wool insulation.

The frame wall is assembled horizontally, rises to the installation site and is attached to the lower harness.

Upper frame frame American type made from double boards. Window and door openings are reinforced with double or triple boards.

Over doorway To add rigidity, the board is cut onto the edge. In the Scandinavian frame, all posts are single.

Bevels and braces

A jib or brace is called diagonal corner fastener to ensure spatial rigidity. The jib together with the corner element forms right triangle, a stable and rigid geometric figure. Mounted in all corners of the building.

Right:

• position the board at an angle of 45 to 60 degrees;
• embed the brace into the lower and upper trims, and not just join them;
• cut the jib into each post intersecting the part;
• fasten each connection mechanically at two points;
• fasten the board edgewise to the plane of the wall.

Corners of a frame house

Functions corner connection– joining of two panels, rigidity of a frame house. The corner should not be blown through or allow cold to pass through. The most common connection options are:

• Californian corner. The two posts are connected to each other at an angle of 90 degrees. From the inside, an additional board is attached to one of the edges, which imparts rigidity and is used when installing interior decoration;
• closed corner. Two boards are attached as in the first option, then another rack is added parallel to the first. The resulting U-shaped structure is insulated with outside structure, the interior trim is attached to the additional rack.

Important!

A corner made from solid timber is considered technically incorrect!

Overlap

The ceiling of a frame house is arranged according to the same principle as the floor of the first floor, only the boards are fastened to the top frame. After installation vapor barrier film, insulation, the pie is sewn on both sides with selected materials.

Rafter system and roofing materials

It's called a roof truss A - shaped design, consisting of rafter legs, fastening jumpers and reinforcements.

A simple solution that makes assembly work easier rafter system will make one ready-made farm according to the project, make templates for all elements according to the sample. Having laid out the blanks on the truss template, assembly is carried out. Connection points reinforced with metal plates. The gable is assembled using the same truss template.

The trusses are lifted onto the floor one at a time and secured in the design position. Vapor barrier and waterproofing films are stretched with overlap and sag, and insulation is installed between them.

The roofing materials used for the construction of a frame house do not differ from those used in houses built using other technologies. Metal profile, flexible tiles, slate, ondulin– modern reliable coatings.

Insulation

The insulation of a frame house is located inside the wall structures. Experienced builders prefer a non-flammable group of insulation materials.

Fireproof insulation materials include:

• cotton insulation;
• ecowool.

Cotton insulation is created using glass or stone fibers , respectively called glass wool and mineral wool.

Perfectly insulates sound and heat due to air gaps. Stone wool denser, produced in the form of mats measuring 1 x 0.6 m. Service life of cotton insulation 25 years old. The insulation is carefully protected with films from moisture, since when wet the material loses all its properties.

Composition of ecowool – cellulose fibers, treated with an antiseptic and borax to prevent fire. The insulation layer has no joints or voids. Ecowool - product modern technology, most new material for insulation.

Properly built according to frame technology the house is in no way inferior traditional types construction.

Frame houses photo

Building a frame house is similar to assembling a construction set. The wooden frame house is assembled in accordance with the diagram. At the same time, the strength and reliability of the future structure depends on the quality of the assembly components. What are the features of the main components and connections of a frame house? And how to properly fix the lower and upper trims, racks, jibs, and crossbars?

Bottom trim connection nodes

The lower one is a frame made of wooden beams or several boards knocked together, which is laid on top. So-called planks - boards - are placed on the concrete foundation under the bottom frame. They perform the main function - they level the foundation and hide those flaws that could have been made during its pouring.

The beds are attached to the concrete foundation using anchors. The installation sites are located at a distance of no more than 0.5 mm. In this case, at least the ends of the beams are secured with anchors.

Connection of the beam to the concrete foundation.

To install anchors, holes of a certain depth are drilled. They pass through the board and go deeper into the thickness concrete foundation. The depth of drilling and driving in the anchor is determined by the height of the house wall and the design of the foundation. For traditional 2.5-3 m frame wall on concrete base The depth of lowering the anchor into concrete is 15-20 cm.

The second option for installing anchors is to concrete the anchor studs during the process of pouring the foundation. When casting a concrete slab or strip in specified places, hollow cones with internal thread. After the concrete has hardened, anchors are screwed into these elongated cone-shaped studs.

Features of the anchor connection

• The holes in the beam are drilled 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the anchor pin.
• Wide washers can be placed under the heads of the anchor bolts to increase the area of ​​their contact with the wooden surface, and increase the strength of the fastening connection.

Anchor fastening of the lower trim.

Before fixing, mandatory waterproofing is carried out - roofing material is placed on the concrete or its surface is covered with a special waterproof compound, mastic. After installation, check the horizon. Deviations from horizontal level allowed in sizes no more than 0.5° per 3 m.

Bottom trim assembly on a columnar foundation

The fastening of structural units of a frame house described above is used on strip and slab foundations. For columnar bases, a different scheme is used:

• For ease of fastening upper part columnar supports must have a flat horizontal head with holes.
• Place on top of the headrest wooden beams, which perform the function of a grillage.
• Recesses of the required depth are drilled in the beams. They are drilled under the holes in the headband.
• Fix the beam with bolts or screws.

Trimmed plank strapping on pile foundation.

Note

It is necessary to attach the timber to the foundation. Shallowly buried strips and slabs are subject to significant movement when freezing. A reliable connection of the floor and bottom trim ensures the reliability and durability of the entire structure.

Design of frame house components

Vertical frame posts are installed on top of the lower frame and secured with nails. Fastening with metal corners used for T-shaped connection of beams without cutting. It's easier to do. Fixing beams with metal nails is used at the junction with partial cutting of the lower beam. This is a more difficult connection to make with your own hands.

A joint without cutting is used for corner frame supports. Butt joints with fixation with plates or corners are used in the main components of a frame house, if the construction is carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of professionals. If experienced builders work, they use a connection with a partial insertion. It prevents strong movements of the timber and frame boards when drying out.

Note

The size of the cutting for the vertical frame post is 30-50% of the thickness of the bottom trim beam.

The corner joint without cutting is fixed with metal plates using wood screws. In this case, reinforced steel corners with several perforations are used. As well as durable self-tapping screws in light golden and silver colors.

Strengthening the corners for fastening the corners of the house is carried out due to technological processing - the metal plates are hardened during the manufacturing process. Or through the use of metal with a large section thickness, up to 2-3 mm.

Methods of fastening racks.

A notch joint is often used to attach studs in the middle of a wall. The supports are inserted into the prepared recesses and additionally secured with nails. Then they are secured in a vertical position with jibs - diagonally inclined slats that rest against a vertical post on one side and a horizontal frame on the other. For ease of support, the ends of the jib are made beveled - part of the end is cut off.

Temporary jib

During the assembly of the frame, temporary jibs are also installed, which fix several vertical posts. Temporary jibs are placed between the upper and lower trim at an angle. They connect several vertical posts and are fixed with nails.

Temporary jibs are placed on the outside of the frame. To attach them, you do not need to cut down, but they need to be fixed in such a way that upon completion of construction, the temporary auxiliary beams can be easily dismantled. Therefore, nails are used to fix them.

Temporary jibs for racks.

Temporary jibs hold the posts upright until permanent jibs are installed at the bottom and top of each rack. Once the permanent jibs are in place, the temporary fixing beams can be removed.

Note

The construction project contains a description of the frame components wooden house in the drawings. They often do not describe in detail the method of attaching temporary jibs, since they do not bear the main load and support the frame temporarily.

Upper harness knots

The top frame of the frame house is laid on vertical frame supports after installing the corner posts. If the perimeter of the house is large enough (more than 6 m), then in addition to the corner pillars, intermediate ones are also placed - in the middle of the wall. And only after that the top harness is placed.

After laying down top row temporary jibs are attached across the entire wall. Next, attach the remaining vertical racks and jibs to them. After which the temporary jibs between the upper and lower trim are removed.

It is most convenient to assemble the walls of a frame house in a lying position, knocking together the lower frame, vertical posts, crossbar, jibs and top frame. And only after that raise the walls in vertical position, where all that remains is to fasten all the walls of the house together. To firmly connect the walls of a frame house, a second top frame is used, which is overlapped with the first top frame.

Double top knots.

When using a double top trim, you can do without the use of steel corners. In this case, there is no need to partially cut off the ends of the boards, making a “claw” connection. Because such connections with cutting out part of the end violate the integrity of the board and, accordingly, weaken it.

Beams are placed on top of the second top frame interfloor covering. The beams are laid on the end, the distance between the beams is set depending on the size of the spans and fastened with nails.

Wall corner

The corner of a frame house is the place of maximum heat loss. As a rule, it is in the corners that condensation accumulates and it is them that need to be insulated first. Therefore, even at the stage of assembling the frame, it is necessary to ensure that the corners of the future frame house are warm. How to do this?

Smooth fixing plates are placed on the outside of the vertical beam. They connect adjacent single-level surfaces of the vertical post and horizontal beams. The fixing corners are located on the side. They connect mutually perpendicular surfaces. What else is important to know about angles?

When building in regions with cold climates, not solid wooden beams are used as vertical posts, but a corner post is assembled from separate boards. The resulting structure resembles a well. Into this interior space install insulation that retains heat and limits possible heat loss.

Installation of corners in the frame of the house.

It must also be warm; for this, single racks are used, but the load on window and door openings is removed using a crossbar. The crossbar is fastened along the entire length of the frame wall by cutting into all vertical posts. It is important to take into account that under each window opening There should be at least 1-2 vertical support boards.

Knots of the rafter system

The nodes of the rafter system include all connections between its elements, namely:

• Fastening floor beams to the top frame.
• Attaching the rafter beam to the top trim.
• Fastening the racks on the gables to the top trim and to the outer rafters.
• Attaching the internal posts to rafter bed and to the skate.
• Fastening the struts – inclined beams, which support the rafters and rest on the beam.
• Attaching the crossbar to inclined rafters.
• Fastening the sheathing.

Knots of the rafter system.

The fastenings listed above can be done using corners or using nails if the elements of the rafter system are connected overlapping each other.

Fasteners

The following elements are used as fasteners for the components of a frame wooden house:

• Fastening plates (angles or flat plates with or without holes). Plates and angles are attached to beams or supports using wood screws.
• Staples (straight and angular) are wire fasteners of a certain diameter. Their edges are folded and inserted into the ends or side surfaces beams
• Bolts - used to tighten adjacent beams and rafters, inserted into through holes and secure them with nuts.
• Nails.

All connecting fixing and fasteners for frame buildings they are made of metal. To fasten load-bearing elements, reinforced corners made of hardened steel or increased thickness, 3-4 mm, are used. To fasten the supporting elements, use corners made of ordinary steel with a thickness of 2-3 mm.

Variety of fastening elements.

In order to protect against corrosion, galvanized steel is used for the manufacture of corners and plates. Rust protection is especially important in outdoor construction, when metal fasteners in walls can become a point of moisture condensation, causing a section of the wall to become wet. Therefore, galvanized fasteners are in great demand in various nodes frame house.

Node connection errors

A drawing of components requires the presence of sketches and descriptions. However, despite this, novice builders often make offensive mistakes. Let's list the main and most frequently repeated erroneous actions that novice individual builders make when assembling a frame:

Not all jibs are installed. This is not true. The jibs ensure the wall's resistance to wind loads. In addition to the jibs, to withstand the wind it is necessary to use rigid slabs in the outer cladding.

• Use solid timber or boards placed tightly next to each other as corner posts. This corner will be cold. Moisture will condense and mold will develop.
• Use “black” screws for fastening. They are not strong enough, especially if not enough was purchased for construction. dry tree. When drying and warping, the “black” screws can be simply “torn off”. A more durable option is golden and silver-colored self-tapping screws, galvanized or coated with a layer of chromating and phosphating.
• They use wood that is not dry enough, which causes severe shrinkage and “breaks” existing nodes and connections.
• And another mistake is not to use nails. These proven fasteners are often stronger than any self-tapping screws.

Frame construction is a new technology in which, despite its apparent simplicity, there are many nuances and features.

Frame wall angle

Despite the apparent simplicity of the question “How to assemble a corner correctly?” the answer will not be so clear-cut. The simplest solution (choose a reliable beam with a cross-section of 150 x 150 mm) is the wrong one. This will create a risk of corners freezing in winter. For frame houses, you can offer 3 options, each of which will have its own pros and cons. Let's figure out which ones:

Option 1. Corner of a frame wall made of 4 boards

The corner of adjacent frame walls is assembled from 4 boards. Three posts nailed together are no different from a timber solution, so the pros and cons are obvious. The high strength of such a connection is combined with the risk of corner freezing. There is somewhere to attach drywall. You can reduce the risk of freezing if you put together a corner post not from 3 boards, but two with spacers from pieces (blocks). Mineral wool is placed in the cracks between the posts.

Option 2. Corner of a frame wall made of three boards 50 x 150 mm

The corner is assembled according to the 2 + 1 scheme, that is, we nail an additional post to one of the outer posts, turning it 90 degrees. The result is a fairly strong connection and there is a shelf for screwing the plasterboard of the internal walls. Obvious advantages: corner insulation is carried out during the interior framing of the house. Also, for an additional rack, you can use low-quality boards, since in this unit the rack acts as a shelf for attaching drywall and does not bear a significant structural load.

Option 3. Corner of a four-board frame wall: 3 (50 x 150 mm) +1 (50 x 100 mm)

The appearance of an additional fourth board with a cross-section of 50 x 150 mm strengthens the structure, which is a plus, but at the same time it is necessary to insulate this corner in a timely manner. Moreover, this must be done before the appearance of the outer skin.

We nail two posts at an angle or parallel to each other with five black nails 90 mm long, maximum step between nails 600 mm. The distance from the edge to the first nail at either end of the posts is 150 mm.