Drywall without a frame for self-tapping screws. High-quality and correct fastening of drywall

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Benefit from frameless installation

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option for flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using the building level and a long rule.

Existing to the wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

• to a brick wall;
• on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

• this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
• money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
• the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
• the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

• the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
• it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, contaminants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide to prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

• the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
• it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
• in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
• before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
• the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, you will not need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:

• self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
• glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

• prepare the base;
• fix drywall;
• close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and evenness and the material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (smooth) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Without a frame, using self-tapping screws, it is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

• existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
• fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then they are performed without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

• using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
• when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
• insert the plastic part;
• clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
• thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

• the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
• close up cracks;
• apply two layers of primer;
• dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
• using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
• in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
• if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material being installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
• make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

• stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
• under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
• control the thread level;
• allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

• waiting for the primer to dry completely;
• apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
• in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
• press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
• knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions is considered a more complicated and painstaking method, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

There is hardly a person in our country who would not know what drywall is, and moreover, would not be aware of how to work with it. The mass of information on the network, and numerous TV shows telling how to make repairs using this material, have made many real masters.

But, despite this, in most cases it all comes down to the construction of complex battens and frames, and in this article we will talk about how to fix drywall on walls without a frame, and talk about situations when this installation method is more acceptable and relevant. So, let's begin!

Judging logically, one can understand that wall cladding with drywall without a frame is much more profitable and convenient. Indeed, we save building materials, and as a result, money, and gain time, because basically it goes to the installation of the frame.

So why is this method less popular among builders, and why is it practically not mentioned on TV shows?

The fact is that fastening drywall to a wall without profiles has a number of limitations, which are quite common in an ordinary house or apartment.

Here are just a few of them:

• Wall humidity. Moisture is the first enemy of drywall. Even if you buy moisture-resistant sheets, with frequent, and even more so, constant contact with moisture, they will quickly become unusable. Gypsum itself does not tolerate water, like paper, and in fact they are the main components of this material. So, if your walls “sweat”, then either you need to fix it, or it’s better to completely abandon this installation method.

• Curvature. Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is possible only with a relative evenness of the base. The maximum allowable difference is 2 centimeters. It can still be compensated with small inserts. If the difference is greater, then the walls will have to be leveled, and these are both financial and temporary costs.
• Communications. Often, under the drywall mounted on the frame, all communications passing along the walls are hidden. This includes electrical wiring, heating pipes, and even ventilation ducts. By mounting the sheets directly to the wall, you will no longer be able to hide all this, which means that all communications will either have to be hidden inside the wall, or let them go outside the finish, which does not always look attractive.

As you can see, there are not so many restrictions, but they are very common, and, probably, this is the secret of the popularity of frame structures, which can easily solve all of the listed problems.

As for the advantages of a frameless mounting method, in addition to the fact that the price of such a finish is much lower, you also save space. Even the narrowest profile, when mounted on walls, will steal at least 5 centimeters of area from you, and multiply this by 4 walls and now you are missing 20 centimeters.

This is especially true for apartments of the old stock, where every square centimeter is worth its weight in gold, and one of the main tasks of repair is not to hide an already small space. So, we figured out the question of whether drywall can be fixed to the wall, which means that we can proceed directly to the process itself, which, although not complicated, requires knowledge of certain subtleties and nuances.

Preparation and installation

Any repair, and even more so the alignment of walls with drywall without a frame, begins with careful preparation. As for the set of tools that we need, it is so ingenuous that we will not even focus on it, but preparing the surface, you need to devote maximum of your time, since it will depend on this how long your finish will last, and how good it will be.

The first thing we need to do is remove everything from the walls that might interfere with the work. The matter concerns not only communications or decorative interior items, this goes without saying, but also the remnants of the old finish.

If your walls were covered with wallpaper, then soak them with soapy water and remove them with a spatula (see How to remove wallpaper from walls correctly and without pain), but if the surface is painted, then everything is somewhat more complicated. You will have to buy a special wash in the store, apply it to the walls and wait a few hours, after which the paint can be removed with the same spatula or trowel.

Important! When working with paint removers, be sure to protect the respiratory tract and eyes, as well as thoroughly ventilate the room. The fact is that the wash itself is a very toxic solvent-based substance, so get ready for a persistent smell of chemistry in the house for the next couple of hours.

Now that the walls have been cleaned, they must be treated with a primer with an antiseptic or a special deep penetration impregnation. This moment is very important, since the primer creates an environment in which bacteria are not able to multiply, which means that fungus and mold will not appear on the walls.

After application, the walls must dry thoroughly, and only after that you can proceed directly to the installation. The drying process, depending on the temperature in the room and the level of moisture, can take from an hour to several days, but in no case do not start work while there is at least a drop of a dry primer on the walls.

Installation: method one

There are two options for attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, and we will dwell on each in detail, and you can already choose which method suits you best based on the characteristics of the room in which you are making repairs. So, the first way is to glue drywall sheets to the base.

It is believed that this is the easiest and fastest way, but it has several disadvantages:

• Drywall adhesive, has poor adhesion to non-mineral surfaces. If your walls are stone or concrete, then there will be no problems, but if they are built of wood, then it is better to refuse this installation method.

• Gluing drywall occurs in one approach, so if you left some area without glue, you accidentally missed it or spread the mass not so abundantly, you won’t be able to fix the situation.
• If there are elements of the old finish on the wall that you could not remove, it is likely that in these places the drywall sheet will peel off over time.

If none of the above scares you, then you can safely get down to business.

First of all, we cut sheets of drywall to the size we need. How to do this is described in detail in one of the articles on our website, so we will not repeat ourselves, and go straight to applying glue.

There are some of the most optimal ways to apply glue, in which the surface will be smeared as much as possible, and there will be a minimum of unused areas:

• Crosswise.
• Straight lines in one direction.
• Cell. The lines are drawn in two directions.
• snake.
• Along the perimeter and crosswise.

Immediately after applying the glue, apply the sheet to the wall and press it tightly. The setting of the solution occurs within a minute, but to be sure, it is better to hold the sheet for three to four minutes.

That's all, the first element is ready, and you can move on to the next one, and so on around the entire perimeter of the room. As you can see, the process is incredibly simple, and if you do it yourself, then this is the easiest option you can think of, and if you still have any questions, we recommend that you watch the video in this article, which shows a detailed instructions on how to attach drywall to a wall without a profile.

Method two

The second installation method is that the drywall sheet is attached to the wall using construction dowels with plastic caps, as shown in the photo.

This option is considered more preferable, since you can adjust the force of pressing the sheet to the base yourself. It is also very convenient in cases where weaknesses have been revealed on the attached sheet. As you remember, when using glue, this defect could no longer be corrected, but here, you just need to hammer in one more dowel and that's it.

Important! When hammering the dowels, control the clamping force. If you hammer the fastener deeper than it is supposed to, it will no longer be possible to pull it out.

So, for this installation method, we need a puncher and a drill of the appropriate diameter. Everything is done very simply: attach the sheet to the wall, and drill the base itself through it. It is better to start fastening from the center of the sheet, and from this place move to the sides.

Depending on the evenness of the walls, you may need from 8 to 20 dowels, but you should not save on them, the stronger the fastening, the longer the finish will last.

And in conclusion

As you can see, installing drywall on walls without a frame is not a difficult process, and most importantly, it is fast. But if you, having read our article up to this point, still do not determine how you will do it, and whether a framework is needed in your particular case, we will give a small table that will surely help you decide.

Well, now you are fully armed with the necessary knowledge, which means you can safely get to work, and remember, no matter what method you choose, first of all, careful preparation of the base is important, and then your finish will serve faithfully for more than a dozen years .

Alignment of walls with drywall frameless method. Applying different technologies to different rough surfaces. The use of supports and struts. Fixing on self-tapping screws, polyurethane foam, installation of beacons.

Drywall without a frame on the wall

Leveling the surface with drywall is the most popular type of repair work, characterized by speed and quality. There are 2 methods of fixing GKL: frame and frameless.

Drywall without a frame on the wall is a quick budget option that has its advantages. Methods for gluing GKL to the surface, as well as fixing sheets with self-tapping screws, are discussed below.

When is it possible to level the walls with drywall without a frame

To level the surface of the GKL, the following methods are applicable:

• Frame - the use of profiles and components to create a crate for GK-sheets.
• Frameless - gluing or directly fixing the sheet to the rough surface.

Fixing the material without a profile is performed in such cases:

1. If the walls are curved no more than 5 cm.
2. Hiding wires and communications is not required.
3. In a small room (toilet, bathroom), where it is not possible to allocate centimeters for the construction of the crate.

The crate takes at least 12 cm of free space in the room.

The frameless method has its drawbacks:

• There is no way to hide communications.
• There is no way to insulate the rough surface.
• In some cases, additional fixation with self-tapping screws or dowel-nails is needed.
• The plasterboard sheet becomes heavier with the applied glue, it is difficult for one person to lift it. You need to call a neighbor for help.

With relatively flat walls, it is advisable to mount the gypsum board using the frameless method.

Existing installation techniques

To fix the GKL without crates, you can apply the following methods:

1. Gluing the material to the rough base on mastic or glue. To do this, a solution is applied at the place of curvature, and it is also applied in a checkerboard pattern on the sheet. GKL is applied to the wall, leveled and pressed, additionally installing a holder. From the floor to the GKL should remain 10-12 mm. To do this, you can put a small piece of sheathing material.
2. The use of self-tapping screws, foam rubber. This method is used for large curvature. Fixing is done like this:

• make markup for the material;
• 9-12 holes are drilled on the GKL. Their location is transferred to the draft base;
• pieces of foam rubber are glued near these holes on the back side;
• a sleeve from a dowel-nail (plastic part) is inserted into the base according to the marks;
• the sheet is screwed with screws to the wall.

1. Combined method. Lighthouses are installed from below and from above. The middle is filled with glue.

All methods of fixing a sheet on a rough base are applicable for various surface irregularities.

Benefits of frameless cladding

The frameless method has features and solves the following problems:

1. leveling surfaces without occupying centimeters of the room;
2. drywall constructions improve sound insulation;
3. there is a slight warming of the room;
4. relatively fast installation;
5. budget option - no need to buy profiles and accessories.

Fixing the GKL to the rough surface will be strong only after the correct selection of the adhesive composition.

How to sheathe a wall with drywall without a frame and a profile with your own hands

Facing the base without a profile is only permissible with unevenness of no more than 2 cm. To apply this method, materials, tools are needed:

• a set of spatulas with various blades;
• level, rule;
• container for adhesive solution;
• adhesive mixture;
• primer, roller, brush;
• reinforcing tape;
• putty for plasterboard joints.

After collecting all the materials, tools, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

To do this, the walls must be cleaned of the previous coating - paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster. The entire surface is cleaned of dust and primed.

A plumb line is suspended from the ceiling to determine the total curvature vertically.

Next, is the preparation of drywall. If the installation is carried out alone, then the drywall sheet must be cut for convenience. Holes for sockets and switches are cut out in the prepared material. On the cut end parts of the material, a chamfer is made with a planer or milling cutter.

On which walls can GVL be installed without a profile

Installation of GKL without a profile is possible on glue, if the differences are 2 cm no more. Glue is best applied with "blobs". They are distributed evenly over the sheet, after that, the material with the adhesive composition is leaned against the rough base. It is necessary to align the sheet - it must stand strictly vertically.

After that, lightly tapping on the GKL, the irregularities of the rough base are filled with glue, the excess goes beyond the boundaries. They are removed with a spatula. The sheet must be fixed with a holder for setting the glue. Only after the composition has solidified, proceed to the installation of the next sheet.

When you need partial wall decoration with wooden slats

If the base has an unevenness of more than 2 cm, then a different method is used from the adhesive one. A lattice of wooden slats is mounted on the rough surface. If there are none, then the GKL sheet is cut into strips 10 cm wide. The strips are glued to the wall using an adhesive. You have to wait for it to dry completely. At the joints of the GKL there should be strips 16 cm wide - 8 for each sheet. All glued beacons must be strictly vertical. Aligned to level.

The evenness of the glued beacons must also be checked by the diagonal rule.

1. Glue is applied to the GCR sheet with a continuous strip. It should be in the place where the beacons will pass.
2. Drywall is cursed with beacons glued to the base.

With the help of wooden slats-beacons, the draft wall is leveled and the GKL is sewn up.

How to mount directly on self-tapping screws: how to screw sheets

There is another option to fasten the finishing material to the rough surface without a frame. This is wall cladding with self-tapping screws. However, this method is applicable when the surface is flat and there are no drops.

There are nuances here:

• before fixing the GKL with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to check how easily the fasteners enter the rough base;
• drywall is attached to the wall to improve sound and heat insulation;
• It is not necessary to clean the surface before fixing.

It is not difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into a brickwork. Here drywall serves as dry plaster for the base.

It is difficult to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete slabs, so dowel nails are used. They do it like this:

1. GKL is applied to concrete.
2. Make holes in the material so that this hole is in the base.
3. GKL removed.
4. The plastic part of the dowel-nail is driven into the concrete.
5. Again, the sheet is substituted and the self-tapping screw is screwed in, which falls into the plastic sleeve.

GKL fixed on the wall. For strength, additional holes are created in the sheet and mounting foam is let in through them, which serves as glue.

After fixing the drywall to the surface, reinforcing the joints and puttying is done.

Do I need to install an additional wall mount

After fixing the first GK-sheet to the rough surface, the adhesive should set. To do this, you need to fix the sheet additionally. In order not to keep the sheet near the wall for an hour or more, apply additional fastening:

1. A homemade device made of wood that looks like a mop. To do this, the vertical stick must be at least 1.5 m, the horizontal one is equal to the width of the sheet. The horizontal rail must be smooth so as not to damage the material. It is attached to the fixed material. Moreover, the vertical rail is fixed on the floor (so that there is an emphasis).
2. A home-made device from profiles - the same mop only from profiles for lathing under the GKL.
3. Purchase support. It is assembled from several parts, which are made of metal pipes. The same device serves as a sheet lifter to the ceiling.

If you do not use a support for the material during the curing of the adhesive composition, then the GKL may not stick or it may not be fixed properly and fall off over time.

Brick wall sheathing: features

Brickwork has a number of features that must be taken into account when fixing the GKL.

1. When fastening the sheet with self-tapping screws without glue, they, getting into the solution, will not hold for a long time. The building has its own movements, fasteners will be unreliable.
2. Gypsum adhesive when applied to cement mortar will not have good adhesion due to the difference in composition. Eventually the glue will peel off.
3. A brick wall can collect condensation on itself if it is thin and exposed to outdoor temperature changes. Moisture adversely affects the GCR. In this case, it is necessary to use mounting foam and self-tapping screws.

There are two ways to solve the problem of installing gypsum on a brick:

1. In the first case, the mounting foam is poured into a small space between the plasterboard and the base.
2. In the second, the foam is applied to the surface of the sheet, and then it is fixed to the surface. This case is more acceptable, since it is possible to control the amount of foam applied to the surface of the facing material.

The foam with the lowest expansion coefficient is used - for expanded polystyrene.

Installation of facing material with self-tapping screws and foam:

1. One sheet is drilled in 9-12 places.
2. These points are transferred to the surface.
3. Pieces of foam rubber are fixed near the drilled holes on the glue. It serves as shock absorbers during fastening.
4. Dowels are driven into the wall at the marked places.
5. The sheet is fixed with screws with wide caps, washers are placed under them. During installation, it is necessary to measure the evenness with a level and a rule.
6. Stepping back from the fastener 1-2 cm to the side, holes are drilled in the GKL for foam nozzles.
7. Foam is introduced into the hole in small doses. Do not forget - the foam expands.

After the foam has dried (about a day), the screws are removed along with the washers. Instead of them, ordinary self-tapping screws are screwed in, having “drowned” the hats a little.

Is it possible to mount directly to a concrete wall GVL without profiles

The concrete wall does not have large drops, so the GKL is fixed with glue.

Gypsum compositions are not applied to concrete due to the incompatibility of the incoming elements. It is better to use acrylic glue.

Before gluing the material, the surface is prepared. Namely:

• notches are made on concrete for greater adhesion;
• the entire wall is covered with a primer.

Thereafter:

1. The GKL sheet is laid on flat wooden slats in front of the fixation point.
2. Glue is applied to it with a notched trowel.
3. The sheet is lifted, a piece of drywall is placed under it so that there is a gap from the floor and leveled.
4. Press to the base and secure with a “mop” until the glue dries.
5. The second sheet is fixed after the first has dried.

If the wall has a curvature, beacons are used from wooden slats or cut strips of plasterboard.

Before installing drywall on the walls, you should read the tips and recommendations of the masters:

• fixing the finishing material begins after all the wiring is done, the floor is laid;
• for the installation of GKL in the room there must be moderate dampness, the temperature is not less than 10 0C;
• walls must be cleaned of finishes and coated with a primer;
• for wet rooms, moisture-resistant GKL is applicable;
• the sheet with glue is heavy, so you need to invite one person to help;
• the glue that has come out must be removed immediately.

Having performed the installation technique correctly, as well as applying the recommendations of the masters, the wall surface will be smooth and ready for further finishing. The drywall construction will last 10-15 years if there are no sudden changes in temperature and constantly high humidity in the room.

Useful video

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How to fix drywall on walls without a frame - 3 real ways

Aligning walls with plasterboard is one of the fastest and most affordable ways to equip a room. At the moment, there are 2 main mounting technologies, these are frame and frameless. Of course, it is easier to mount on the frame, but it takes up a lot of usable area. Therefore, in small city apartments, installing drywall on a wall without a frame is more relevant. In this article, I will talk about three ways of cladding walls with drywall without a frame and all the intricacies of this process that I know.

A few words about the material

During the existence and active use of drywall, several types of such sheets have been developed, each of which is designed for certain operating conditions:

• In residential, dry rooms, the most common are standard GKL sheets. Such sheets are not impregnated with anything, hence the price for them is perhaps the most affordable. Often they are produced in gray and have a blue marking;
• GKLV sheets are produced for cladding in services and other rooms with high humidity.. This is a moisture resistant material. Such sheets have a greenish color and blue markings;
• Fire-resistant drywall is abbreviated as GKLO. In some sources, it is recommended for facing kitchens, but from my own experience I can say that it makes no sense to use it in city apartments at all. This material is good for facing fireplaces and other similar structures. These sheets have a gray “shirt” and red markings;
• There is also a universal drywall GKLVO, it is moisture and fire resistant. You can mount it virtually anywhere, but as you yourself understand, the price of these sheets is an order of magnitude higher. Theoretically, it is well suited for the kitchen, but in practice, it makes no sense to pay for universal sheets if you can get by with simple moisture-resistant ones.

There are also GLV gypsum fiber sheets, but in our case they are not suitable for leveling walls without a frame.

Frameless mounting methods

The use of one or another of the methods described below depends on how smooth your walls are. Conventionally, they can be divided into 3 categories:

• The first method is used for walls with smooth curvatures up to 5 mm;
• The second is designed for surfaces with curvature up to 20 mm;
• And the third is used on very curved surfaces with drops of up to 40 mm.

Important: it is believed that cladding walls with drywall without a frame makes sense only if the differences in the plane do not exceed 40, maximum 50 mm. In all other cases, the installation of a frame is required.

Surface preparation

Any construction work begins with the preparation of the base, but for the installation of drywall on walls without a frame, the base must be prepared very carefully. Otherwise, you run the risk that over time, mold and fungus will grow in the gaps between the wall and the sheets, and there it’s not far from asthma with allergies.

• If the wall is plastered, then first you need to carefully “tap” it in order to detect voids and delaminations. When they are found, the plaster layer in these places should be completely knocked down, to a solid foundation;
• There are times when you have to level an old wall, which already has several layers of plaster applied at different times. Here, regardless of whether you found voids or not, it is advisable to completely remove all plaster layers. In this case, it is too likely that one of the old layers will fall behind over time and your new, beautiful cladding may simply collapse;
• When you remove plaster or just clean up problem areas, old cracks and shells can open on the walls. So all of them will need to be expanded and cleaned well, since there are almost certainly mold spores at the bottom of these cracks. I usually use a grinder for this, but if it wasn’t at hand, then it’s quite possible to get by with a chisel and a hammer;

• If there are oil stains on the wall, then you can try to remove them with ammonia or some similar reagent. Although personally I prefer not to mess with chemistry. It is much faster and more reliable to knock down the old plaster along with the oil stain and forget about the problem;
• Too large growths and bumps will also need to be knocked down. Simply put, your task is to make the wall relatively flat;
• This is where the first and by the way the dirtiest stage of preparation ends, then we move on to the elimination of visible defects. But first you will need to brush off the dust and go through the ground a couple of times;

Fine building dust should be removed with a brush or a damp cloth. Do not try to use a household vacuum cleaner for these purposes. At one time, I stepped on this rake, as a result, the vacuum cleaner burned out, and they asked for so much for its repair that it was easier to buy a new one.

• If the wall cladding with drywall is carried out in a potentially dry room, then Betonkontakt can be taken as the soil. For damp rooms it is better to use "Tifengrund" This composition significantly reduces the level of moisture absorption by the base. Naturally, in addition to these primers, there are many others, but I recommend those compositions that have already been tested;
• At the last stage of preparation, you will need to putty all deep sinks and previously cleaned cracks, and when the putty dries, walk over it with soil again;
• There are more than enough different specialized putties on the market now, but in the old fashioned way I prefer to use ordinary gypsum for this purpose. Firstly, gypsum, or as it is also called alabaster, hardens within 15 - 20 minutes, and secondly, its strength is sufficient for such work. Plus, the price of alabaster is quite acceptable.

Method number 1: we fight with small curvatures

Wall cladding with plasterboard has its own characteristics. So, whatever leveling method you choose, the sheets should not fit snugly against the floor and ceiling. In these places, a damper gap of about 5 - 10 mm is left.

It is necessary so that during temperature deformations or shrinkage of the building the sheets do not warp. And also for air access, because without it the construction adhesive will harden for a very long time. At the end of the work, the gap from below will be covered with a plinth, and the upper gap will need to be puttied with elastic silicone.

As a rule, this method is used in cases where the wall is covered with many cracks, and the home master simply cannot or does not want to plaster the entire plane with his own hands.

True, I also came across such owners who, by all means, want to make perfectly even walls. And the assurances that it is impossible to visually notice a smooth drop of 5 mm on the wall do not convince them. Roughly speaking, people just have such a “fad”, they cannot feel comfortable if they know that somewhere there is a small bias.

First you will need to use a level and a plumb line to measure how even your corners are. The fact is that the installation should start from the most even corner, otherwise it will be very difficult to correct the skew later.

Ideally, it is better to use a laser level for these purposes, but it costs serious money and, in the absence of such, you can get by with an ordinary building level with a length of about 2m. In extreme cases, a simple plumb line will do, but here you have to rely on the accuracy of your eye.

Often, for such work, sheets with a height of about 3 m are used. Taking into account the fact that the ceiling height in most of our city apartments fluctuates around 2.5 m, with one sheet you completely cover the entire wall.

For such work, I use the Fügenfüller construction glue-putty, I see no point in writing about the technology of its breeding, because all such compositions must have detailed instructions.

When you bring the glue into working condition, it is most convenient to apply it to the sheet with a notched trowel with a tooth depth of 5 - 10 mm. It makes sense to apply glue with a solid ball to the entire sheet only if tiling is planned as a finishing cladding.

In dry rooms designed for painting or wallpapering, such an unheard-of waste of expensive glue is absolutely not justified. In this case, it will be enough to apply a strip 15–20 cm wide around the perimeter and at several points in the center of the sheet.

Naturally, before applying the adhesive, the sheet will need to be cut to size, taking into account the upper and lower damper gaps. To ensure the bottom gap, I simply put the sheet on the lining. As a rule, these are pieces of broken tiles or the same drywall trimmings.

When you attach the glued sheet to the wall, it will need to be accurately aligned vertically. To be honest, this is the most responsible and difficult stage. Most masters recommend tapping the sheet with a rubber mallet, or if health allows you to gently press down or hit it with your fist, constantly checking the vertical with a level.

I do it a little differently. Drywall is a rather fragile thing and, without experience, it can be easily damaged by point impacts. In order to avoid such an unpleasant situation, I first apply a long and wide metal rule to the convex place and hit it already. Thus, the pressure is evenly distributed over the plane, and the sheet gently takes its place.

Method number 2: use beacons

Installing drywall on lighthouses is actually one of the varieties of frame mounting. Only a regular frame is assembled from UD and CD profiles. And here, instead of profiles, beacons are attached to the wall. This method is used for height differences of 5 mm or more.

Pre-cut squares from the same drywall are used as beacons. The length of the side of such a square usually fluctuates around 20 cm. Instead of squares, you can mount strips on the wall, but you have to mess with them more.

To ensure the uniformity of the support, the beacons are installed strictly in squares, as shown in the diagram. The distance between the beacons is maintained in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The squares themselves are glued to the base with the same glue for drywall.

Naturally, since our wall is curved, each lighthouse will have a different height. At the most convex points, one plate is placed. Further, depending on the size of the depressions, the number of plates increases.

This method is great for beginners. If you have a maximum of 15-20 minutes during a continuous landing on the glue to expose the sheet, because the glue will begin to harden further, then the beacons can be slowly put up, not in a hurry. And when everything is displayed perfectly, just prime and smear the pads with a thin layer of glue, and then gently attach a sheet to them.

Method number 3: mounting on self-tapping screws

Fastening drywall to the wall with self-tapping screws without a frame is a fairly common practice. It, like the previous technology, is used for large elevation differences along the plane.

First, you, as usual, measure and cut the sheet. Then you put supports on the floor, put a sheet on them and try it on the wall, exactly the way it will stand in the future. Now you will need to take a drill and drill about a dozen and a half holes for self-tapping screws, evenly distributing them over the entire plane. You need to drill through so that marks remain on the wall.

Drywall should be drilled with a thin drill. Later, when you screw screws into these holes, they should not hang out.

After that, remove the sheet to the side and, according to the markings left from the thin drill, drill a series of holes in the wall for the “quick installation” plastic dowels with a perforator and a drill with a victorious solder and immediately insert these same dowels into them.

Now with frequent "blots" you throw thick construction glue on the wall. The thickness of the cakes should be about 10 - 15 mm more than the planned border of the sheet. In the next step, you attach the sheet to the wall and screw the screws into the holes.

As you tighten the screws, the sheet will gradually press against the wall and sit on the glue. In this case, the plane and vertical are regulated by self-tapping screws and the main thing here is not to overtighten.

In order not to accidentally tighten the self-tapping screw to the stop and thereby not bend the plane, you do not need to use a screwdriver. In this situation, it is better to take an ordinary screwdriver and slowly, constantly checking the plane for level, tighten the screws with your own hands.

What You Definitely Don't Need to Do

Recently, while browsing the web for information, I came across another “interesting” way to install drywall on self-tapping screws without a frame. Some unfortunate master painted a supposedly working technology.

It all sounded something like this: at first, as in the method described above, a sheet of drywall was tried on against the wall. A series of holes were drilled in it, and then in the wall itself, into which “quick installation” plastic dowels were inserted.

After that, several foam rollers were glued on the inside of the sheet. According to the plan, they should play the role of shock absorbers when the sheet is leveled. Further, without any glue, the sheet was exposed vertically with the help of self-tapping screws.

At the last stage, the most interesting thing happens: the author recommends drilling another hole with a diameter of about 10 - 15 mm next to the screws. And in these holes, in fact, blindly, inject mounting foam. It is assumed that the foam should fill the voids and at the same time, tightly glue the drywall to the wall.

I had a case when, during the insulation of a wooden door shell, I filled in a little more mounting foam than necessary. So, during the expansion, the foam moved a powerful wooden beam.

In our situation, I can say with full responsibility that if you pour mounting foam between the drywall and the wall, it will simply warp. As a result of pressure, the sheet will at least go in waves.

And if you make a mistake with the dosage and fill in too much mounting foam, the sheet may generally break or be torn off the self-tapping screws, because they stand firmly. So keep in mind, mounting foam is a good thing, but you don’t need to fill it anywhere.

Output

As you can see, installing drywall on walls without a frame is a doable task, even for an amateur. Of course, you need to act carefully. If you do not have any experience at all, then I would recommend that you pay attention to the installation of beacons.

In the photo and video in this article, I have placed useful information on this topic. If you have any questions, write in the comments, we'll talk.

Drywall is a versatile building material for wall decoration. Today, it is very fashionable and beautiful to use gypsum for finishing surfaces. The demand for this material is growing every day. This material has high elasticity and elasticity, it is these qualities that allow you to create various unique designs on surfaces, and many people can do it on their own. With the help of drywall, you can remove all the bumps from the wall, while making it as smooth as possible. In this article, I will teach you how to attach drywall to a wall.

Fixing drywall to the wall is a whole science, which, at the same time, allows you to create magnificent arches, built-in wardrobes, partitions, TV niches and many other interesting decorations. Let's look at three main ways to create a new design in your home.

Frameless way

In this embodiment, the fastening takes place directly on the wall, which must first be prepared. This mounting option will hide the bumps on the wall. This method is the simplest compared to other methods.

So, let's look at how to fix drywall to the wall in a frameless way with glue.

Wall preparation process

An important point before starting work is the preparation of the walls. In order for the sheets to be well attached to the base, it must be well processed. It is necessary to carefully clean off the old coating: wallpaper, paint, whitewash. We are looking for irregularities on our wall and somehow mark them (you can use chalk). We apply a primer on the wall (the primer must be applied in several layers so that the wall has good adhesion) and let it dry well.

From drywall, you need to cut strips 10 cm wide (you can use a regular clerical knife for cutting). On one side we apply a primer and wait for it to dry. While the primer dries, in a separate bucket you need to knead the glue for gluing. It is best to use a drill with a special nozzle - it is very convenient and saves you time. The consistency of the finished glue should be like the consistency of sour cream.

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I warn you right away, you don’t need to interfere much with glue, it dries quickly. Therefore, you will have to work with him quickly. We return to our prepared strips. We apply glue on them and glue them vertically on the prepared wall - one close to the floor, and the second also to the ceiling.

The next step is to stick the same strips only horizontally. The stripes will break at the places marked as bumps and start behind them. In this way, we can even out all the defects on the wall. Now it is already clear how smooth the wall will be. So, everything is ready, it remains only to glue the sheets.

wall mount

We apply a primer to the sheet and wait for it to dry completely - this will ensure good adhesion of the material. After the primer has completely dried, apply glue to the sheet. It is very important to follow the rule when applying the adhesive: in places where the material will adhere to the strips that are already on the wall, apply the adhesive with a notched trowel (adhesion increase).

In other areas, the adhesive material is applied in the form of "blunders". After applying the adhesive to the sheet, it must be firmly glued to the wall. And so each subsequent sheet. This is how frameless gluing occurs.

Mounting on a metal frame

This installation option is very complex, since for its execution it is necessary to perform many sequential actions. The advantage of this method is that it is possible to even out large irregularities on the walls, and it is also possible to use thermal insulation between the drywall sheets and the wall. Using metal profiles to create a frame, we increase the service life of our structure. This installation method is best suited if you decide to make a niche for a TV out of drywall.

When starting work on a plasterboard structure, which will eventually become a wardrobe, a bookcase or even a TV, the first thing to do is to measure the walls in order to have a clear picture - at what distance to place profiles and suspensions (usually at a distance of 60 cm from each other). Along the perimeter of the wall, profile guides are fastened with dowels. They need to be set using a level (we create a flat surface).

Related article: How to apply decorative plaster: tools, materials, technologies

Having installed the upper profile, from it, using a plumb line, dowels and screws, we install the lower one. Next, side profiles are installed and suspensions are attached. The bearing parts of the frame are installed in the guides. Gypsum sheets will be held on the supporting profiles.

As a result, we should get a barred wall created using profiles and hangers. Knowing that the width of the sheet is 120 cm, the carrier profiles must be set so that there are three of them on one sheet.

To ensure good sound insulation and thermal insulation, a heater is placed between the plaster and the wall. So, the frame is completely ready, you can attach sheets of gypsum. It is fastened with self-tapping screws (black 3.5x25 mm), the cap of which is drowned. It should not stick out, otherwise it will interfere with further processing with plaster.

It is important to remember that the sheets must be fastened in such a way that their joint is on the same profile. Seams and pits from fastening need to be puttied.

Mounting on wooden rails

The third method of attaching drywall sheets to walls has several advantages. It is cheap because it uses wooden blocks, not a metal profile. It is much simpler, and, therefore, there is a time saving. Using this method, you can also get rid of the unevenness of the walls. The difference from the method with metal profiles is that the fastening of a wooden beam occurs directly to the wall itself, and not to the ceiling and floor.

The first step is to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling, this will be the starting point. A beam is attached to the ceiling, it must be set exactly using a level. A plumb line is thrown further from him, he will determine the plane. In the event that the plane does not match, you need to put a lining under the lower beam or cut a little scarf.

Having dealt with the lower section, we move on to the side guides. It’s a little easier here if the plane is already installed, it remains only to adjust them to the level. The beam along the contour is installed, it's time to start the crate. For the crate, two types of timber are used: 40x40 mm and 80x40 mm. An important rule must be observed: three beams must be used for each sheet, one in the middle (40x40mm) and one for each edge (80x40mm).