DIY garden house drawings. Cute garden house

What can you build a residential house in the country? How and how to insulate a garden house with your own hands? What should be the foundation? The purpose of this article is to introduce the reader to several popular solutions and their key features.

Foundation

On what foundation can a small summer or year-round house be erected?

Design

• ideal for dense non-rocky soils with a minimum weight of the building (frame houses, sip panels). It consists of columns of red brick or concrete blocks on a sand bed, connected with a grillage of timber with a section of 100x100 and above.

By the way: the cheapest type of columnar foundation is old car tires filled with concrete.

• For materials that are heavier or sensitive to minor deformations (brick, foam blocks, aerated concrete), a strip monolithic foundation is preferable. It is poured into a trench dug to a depth of 30-50 cm with a backfill of compacted sand or gravel. The height of the above-ground part is 25 - 40 cm; reinforcement - two-layer, spaced from the lower and upper surfaces of the foundation by at least 3 centimeters.

• Finally, for plastic clays and wetlands, the best solution is a screw foundation.. Screw piles are screwed to a depth of 1.5 - 3 meters and transfer the weight of the structure to the underlying, denser soil layers. Their heads are connected with a grillage made of timber, channel, I-beam or profile pipe.

Waterproofing

The surface of the pillars and the strip foundation, before fixing the grillage or the bottom trim, is waterproofed with a pair of layers of roofing material. It prevents capillary suction of groundwater and dampening of the wall material.

By the way: for a wooden grillage or lower trim of wooden walls, it is better to use not spruce or pine, but larch resistant to decay.
The price per cubic meter of larch timber is only 25-30% higher than that of pine.

The surface of screw piles and steel grillage is protected from corrosion with bituminous mastic applied in two layers.

Walls

Let's find out what walls are most often built from.

Shell rock, limestone

From these materials, a house for a garden with their own hands is often built by residents of the southern regions of the country, where open-pit mining of sedimentary rocks is carried out. A one-story building can be safely built with a thickness of half a stone (about 20 cm), followed by insulation or plastering of the walls.

An important point: a large-pore shell with such a thickness of the masonry will be blown through.
For winter operation of the building, it will have to be at least plastered on both sides.

For masonry, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used in a ratio of 1: 3; rows are placed with dressing of vertical seams and level control. The first row along the strip foundation is laid out on a 2-centimeter concrete pad.

Aerated concrete, foam blocks

A small garden house made of foam blocks with your own hands can be built without an armored frame and even an armored belt; the strength of the masonry is ensured only by the rigidity of the foundation and the dressing of the rows. For masonry, aerated concrete glue is used; seam thickness - no more than 3-4 millimeters. This ensures minimal heat loss through the seams and ideal wall geometry.

Brick

A thin-walled brick garden house with your own hands is the worst solution in three ways at once:

1. The cost per square meter of masonry. Brick is noticeably more expensive than foam blocks or shell rock.
2. Wall building speed. Large blocks are placed much faster.
3. Degrees of insulation. In order not to be unfounded, let's compare brickwork with alternatives. In the table we present the values ​​of wall thickness for different materials, providing the same degree of thermal insulation.

Nevertheless, brick is popular due to its strength and presentable appearance of the walls built from it.

The wall material is brick.

In our case, it is better to use a porous building material: its lower mechanical strength with a small wall height is not decisive, but the lower cost and better thermal insulation qualities will be in place.

frame structure

It is a frame made of timber and boards, sheathed with OSB boards on one or both sides. If necessary, the cavities inside the wall are filled with insulation with vapor and waterproofing.

In most cases, a partial reconstruction of a garden house or an attic superstructure is carried out using frame technology: a frame made of timber can be easily combined with any other building materials.

Sip panels

They provide the maximum degree of insulation and the highest speed of construction. The panels, which are a sandwich of two sheets of OSB and a layer of expanded polystyrene, are connected by an insert from a bar. OSB is hemmed to the timber with self-tapping screws; before assembly, the seams are foamed.

In addition to low thermal conductivity, sip panels are interesting for their high rigidity with low weight. For example, a do-it-yourself garden hut can be built without a frame and a rafter system: panels and insert bars will provide sufficient strength.

Nuance: the dimensions of the panels are tied to the standard dimensions of the OSB sheet (1.2 x 2.5-2.8 m).
In turn, the size of the house to minimize the amount of waste is better to make a multiple of the size of the panel.
If so, you can’t build a 3x4 garden house with your own hands; its dimensions will be either 2.4 x 3.6 or 3.6 x 4.8 m.

Warming

How can a garden house be insulated with your own hands?

Styrofoam coat

1. Styrofoam with a density of C-25 and above is used for external wall cladding. It is attached with cement glue; glue beacons compensate for uneven walls. For additional fixation of the plates, plastic dowel-umbrellas are used.

1. The same cement glue is applied to the surface of the foam with a wide spatula; reinforcement is pressed into it - a fiberglass mesh with a mesh of 2x2 mm and a density of 160 g / m2. The mesh is glued with an overlap of strips of 50-100 mm.
2. The fiberglass mesh is covered with a layer of glue in such a way as to hide its texture.

Further finishing is at the discretion of the owner; usually the walls are painted with facade paint or finished with decorative plaster.

Hint: Glued mineral wool boards can be used instead of Styrofoam. It is safer in terms of the possibility of fire, but is much more expensive.

Intra-wall insulation

Instructions for warming frame buildings are even simpler:

1. The frame sheathed on the outside is laid with a waterproofing film.
2. Mineral wool insulation boards are inserted inside the frame.
3. They are covered with a vapor barrier.
4. From the inside, the frame is sewn up with OSB boards or two layers of drywall.

Ventfasade

Where the vapor permeability of the walls is important, the facade is made ventilated:

1. The walls are covered with a crate (bar or galvanized profile).
2. Mineral wool slabs are installed under the crate or between its elements, with additional fixation with dowel-umbrellas.
3. closed with a windproof membrane.
   
4. The facade is sewn up with siding along the crate.

Conclusion

Of course, we have described only a small part of the list of possible solutions. As always, in the video in this article, the reader can find additional information. Successes in construction!

Having taken possession of a summer cottage, almost everyone dreams of building a big house or even an estate. But if you own only a few acres, then it would be best to build a small garden house with your own hands.

Such construction will not require large investments, but after its completion you will have a wonderful building that can be equipped for temporary residence, storage of tools and for other purposes.

Garden house design

Even such "small-sized" construction should begin with the preparation of a set of project documentation. In the project of a garden house must be present:

• Floor plans showing the overall dimensions of each room
• structural nodes at the junction of walls, floor and ceiling
• Drawings of the roof and floor supports
• Vertical section of the building with the main marks (the bottom of the foundation, the height of the ceiling and the finished floor)
• Schemes of communication networks - electrical, water, sewer and gas, indicating points of connection to the mains

The drawings are made to scale with the obligatory observance of proportions. Linear dimensions are best indicated in millimeters. An explanatory note should be attached to the project for the construction of a garden house with your own hands, describing the solutions developed, indicating the building materials used and their quantity.

Space planning

When choosing a place for a garden house, it must be borne in mind that lowlands where water accumulates are not suitable for this. The best option would be the highest point on the site in its northern or northwestern part, at least three meters from the boundary.

The most convenient as garden houses are considered one-story buildings with an attic, which can be used to store household items and inventory. If you also complete the terrace, then you can equip a real dining room in it.

Choosing to build a two-story house, the second floor is best built in the attic. On the ground floor, it is customary to equip a kitchen with huge windows and a room with a staircase.

Having a basement is not the best solution for a garden house. It will contribute to the freezing of the room in the winter, which will adversely affect the thermal protection. In addition, the basement is often flooded with spring water.

Building materials and tools

A small garden house with your own hands can be built from bricks, foam concrete or aerated concrete blocks and other materials.

But the main building material for load-bearing structures is a square pine beam 100x100 mm with one planed side, forming the outer surface of the building. On the edges of the timber, chamfers must be removed.

For all other elements of the house (ceiling, floor, beams, rafters, doors and windows), you can use pine lumber.

All materials need mandatory pre-drying, while their moisture level must be the same so that there is no shrinkage and deformation of the house during uneven drying of wooden elements.

Also for construction you will need:

• Thermal insulation materials and improvised heaters
• Asbestos-cement boards
• Wood preservative
• Ruberoid
• Nails
• Mounting foam
• Plaster
• Dye
• Floor slats
• Decoration Materials

You can build a garden house with your own hands only using timber, slats, boards, doors and windows.

To work, you need the following tools:

• cordless drill
• Hand Circular and Miter Saw
• Hammer
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Marking cord
• flat brush
• adhesive tape

The technology of building a garden house

To simplify with your own hands, you should use the principle of modular design, which consists of the following steps:

1. Foundation laying
2. Construction of wall elements
3. Creating a truss system
4. Roofing
5. Installation of windows and doors

The facade of the house can be supplemented with a canopy, which is useful for shelter from rain or the scorching sun.

Foundation laying

The foundation is laid below the depth of soil freezing, taking into account the level of groundwater.

Under a heavy garden house (made of concrete, stone or brick), a strip foundation is required around the entire perimeter, a columnar one is more suitable for a wooden one. It is also recommended to equip it in regions with a large freezing depth.

As a material for the foundation, natural stone, concrete and rubble concrete are suitable. Below the waterproofing layer, it is recommended to use concrete, clay bricks and cement mortar.

In the basement, it is necessary to equip waterproofing at a height of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry, it is enough to make a cement-sand screed of 2-3 cm, if it is wet, then the roofing material should be laid on the screed in two layers. You can also stick it on a dry screed using hot mastic.

If the house has a basement, you need to create a waterproofing belt in both the basement and the foundation. The basement waterproofing must be located below the floor beams. To ventilate the subfloor, small holes are made in the basement and covered with a protective mesh.

Around the basement, a blind area is made with a width of at least 0.7 m, which should have a slight slope from the walls of the house and protrude beyond the overhang of the eaves. To create it, the top layer of soil with vegetation is removed, clay with gravel or crushed stone embedded in it is trampled along this strip, and then covered with concrete or fine-grained asphalt.

Walling

The basis of the walls is a draft beam, laid along the perimeter of the foundation in one row and fastened with nails. Waterproofing strips of roofing material are placed under it.

To create the frame of the house, 4 pillars are dug in at the corners, the lower part of which is pre-wrapped with roofing material.

From below, they are attached to a draft beam, from above - to temporary stretch marks, which are pre-set vertically along a plumb line. Frame elements are fastened with long nails.

After creating a rigid frame, its internal and external finishing is performed. Between the edges of the corners, pieces of timber are laid in advance, interleaved with layers of linen tow, which are fastened together with 150-mm nails. At the same time, the verticality of the walls is constantly checked by a plumb line.

In the course of work, door and window frames are installed.

Floor and floors

To create a floor, beams are first laid, a draft floor is laid on top of edged planed boards, and then a finishing floor is made of laths.

On this floor, a clay screed is made, covered with insulation and another layer of roofing material. After that, a two-centimeter cement-sand screed is performed.

An antiseptic impregnation of the corresponding color is suitable as a coating.

The ceiling beams on the first floor form the framework for the second floor. These coatings are made of planed edged boards, and the space between them is filled with large sawdust. The ceiling is sheathed with clapboard along with the walls, and the floor of the second floor is covered with a rail. Similarly, attic floors are performed. At the same time, their beams will rest with their ends on the bearing walls.

Roof installation

The roof of a garden house built by one's own hands should be single or double sloped. It consists of a roof (covering) and rafters on which a crate or flooring is placed.

The easiest way is to build inclined rafters. In such a system, the rafter legs are cut into the upper trim of the wall or into the Mauerlat laid along the perimeter of the top of the wall. A crate of boards is attached to the rafters, nailing them in a run-up or end-to-end parallel to the ridge.

The roof is most rationally made of wavy slate. When laying, the edges of the sheets should overlap by one wave, and in a vertical position - by 10-15 cm on top of each other. Each side is fixed with nails or screws. If the slope of the roof is small, then roofing material is overlapped under the asbestos-cement sheets parallel to the ridge. The fractures of the roof and the ridge are covered with special shaped parts.

In addition, you can carry out roofing with other roofing materials. For example, soft sheet tiles "". It is an alloy of rubber and plastic. In most characteristics, it surpasses materials of a similar type that are commercially available.

Or metal tiles. It does not heavily load the truss structure, as it has a weight of 4.5 kilograms per square meter. It is mounted on roofs of any type with a slope of slopes from 14 degrees (the ideal slope is 20-25 degrees). Used in all regions of the country, including the northernmost. The process of installing a metal tile with your own hands is considered in detail.

Or, cover the roof with shingles. This material has unique performance characteristics and is used for roofing in all regions. the technology of installation of flexible tiles is considered in detail.

The final stage

After construction is completed, it is necessary to install door and window blocks, and then make and attach architectural details - door frames, frontal boards of cornices and gables, porch pillars, etc.

It should be borne in mind that for the manufacture of these elements it is impossible to use the material that remained after construction. Only selected high quality wood is needed.

At the end of construction, you can proceed to the design of the garden house with your own hands, both internal and external.

Video about building a garden house with your own hands

Today, many of us have suburban areas where there are no buildings, and in the summer heat you really want to hide in even a small house, which you can build on your site in the shortest possible time. A detailed description of the construction of a small house can be viewed in the video below. Such a do-it-yourself garden house will not only serve as housing for you for the summer period, but will also become an excellent element of landscape design. There are a lot of ideas, you can take any for your site. All construction work is very simple - it's like assembling a house of cards. As you will see for yourself, in fact, everything is very simple and easy, even for someone who has no idea about construction. You don't have to be afraid to experiment.

Beautiful garden house

Consider some interesting ideas for building a garden house:

1. Today on the Internet you can find a lot of ideas for building a garden house, for example, as in the photo below. It is a nice little and quite comfortable building. On weekends, most of the townspeople go to their own personal plots. It is impossible to imagine a dacha without a building, which has at least a small size. It can be made by hand. You can spend the night in it or store the necessary utensils, as well as shelter from the rain.
2. However, construction represents some material and labor costs. And not everyone can afford such even a small structure, since you still have to spend money. What to do if you do not currently have plans to build a garden house, but there is a need for at least minimal convenience in the country? It’s better for you to build a small house for a summer residence, which you can see in the photo below.

1. A small frame house that you can build with your own hands from improvised means will not require significant costs and a lot of time. And even the owner himself, who does not even know how to nail a nail, can erect it. If you want to spend more time on your garden plot, then the garden house can be used as an option where you can meet guests or as a summer kitchen.
2. If you need to build a house with dimensions of 3x4, then you should take into account the basic rules of construction. The structure must be raised above the ground. Thus, it can be protected from excessive moisture and rotting of the floor covering. Such a frame house will serve you for a long time.
3. It is easier to build it on special brick posts, on which the flooring bars are then laid out. Do not forget to put a layer of roofing material between the timber and the bricks. Because wood and brick react completely differently to different air temperatures. Between these two materials it is necessary to lay a layer of inert materials. Thus, the condensate from the bricks will not end up on the load-bearing wooden joists of the flooring.

Little houses in the garden

1. If on the plot there is an acute problem with the protection of things left in an empty house, then some gardeners have special containers that are stored under the building. Such a structure closes perfectly when leaving the city and it is impossible to open it in an unauthorized way. Such a container under the building will not affect the appearance of your building at all. A do-it-yourself frame house in your dacha will look very cute and at the same time quite cozy.
2. A rather cute and beautiful option are projects of garden houses like a hut. The interior of such a structure will give a clear charm to the entire territory in your country house. Basically, the area under any roof slope of such a frame building is used to store country things. Thus, the entire territory of such a structure as a frame version goes as efficiently as possible.
3. If you liked the idea of ​​​​building a garden house like a hut in your country house, however, this option seems too exotic to you, then think about the fact that you are unlikely to experiment like that with the interior of a large garden house. Here you can always experiment and usually the result is even better than desired. In such a building you can receive guests.
4. We also recommend building a small veranda or porch for a country house. Based on practice, it is this structure that is the most popular among summer residents. Because in it you can hide from the heat in summer, and in rainy weather from precipitation.

Video of building a house in the country

Stages of building a house in the country

Consider the projects and stages of construction of such a structure with your own hands in the country, like a frame house.

A frame house with an area of ​​​​approximately 8 square meters, the construction of which is possible with your own hands, with a minimum of financial investment and effort, can offer you a small kitchen and a place for a bedroom for about 4 family members, if you correctly create the interior of such a versatile building for your backyard. And such a building after some time will be a favorite vacation spot for all members of your family.

How can you create elementary comfort in the garden if you do not yet have a country house in your country house? The construction of garden houses without outside help, with your own hands, with an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 14 and 16 square meters can help in solving this problem. You will not believe it, but in such a small area you can simultaneously fit several functional and useful rooms - this is a bedroom, a kitchen and a bathroom.

House for the night

The main method of effective use of the entire territory of the garden building is the maximum use of its height. The place for the bedroom, which is allocated approximately 2 by 2 meters, can be located in the attic under the very roof of our building on the plot. Ceiling ceilings are usually made only over this half of the building, which you decide to do with your own hands from improvised materials. In the sleeping area of ​​7 square meters there is a dining table that can be folded, and another place to sleep as a folding chair. However, if there is a need for this, then in a small building you can place a folding sofa.

The ladder, which is a corridor for climbing to another floor of our building, can be removed to the wall near the window during the daytime. In order for the ladder to be in a more stable position, it must be fixed into special slots in the narrow shelf, which is located above the window area.

In a small-sized kitchen, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is approximately 3 square meters, you can fit the following:

• a sink in which you can wash dishes;
• cooking panel;
• miniature refrigerator;
• shelves for storing kitchen utensils.

Such a miniature building is as practical and efficient as possible. You can use every centimeter of free space in it and fit everything. If you want to bring a little comfort, then add a small shelf to the interior, on which you can store dishes and other small interior tricks.

Buying a summer cottage is a joyful event in the life of every person. And it’s good if a solid house is already present on the site. However, even in the absence of a residential building, you can easily solve this problem by doing the work of building a house with your own hands. It doesn't have to cost a lot of money. There are interesting projects of country houses that allow you to build full-fledged residential buildings with your own hands from available materials.

The simplest country house can be built from logs, cement and sawdust. Even these elementary materials make it possible to build a beautiful, reliable and warm structure. At the same time, such a house will be completely environmentally friendly and safe for human health. Instead of cement, you can use a mixture of clay, straw and sand.

First step

Make a foundation. The design will weigh quite a bit, so the simplest strip or columnar foundation, which is more preferable in such situations, will do.

Second step

Prepare the base for the house. For the lower strapping, it is recommended to use the highest quality timber as possible. Before laying the timber, it is necessary to lay reliable waterproofing on the foundation. Also, the beam of the lower trim must be waterproofed from above.

For additional rigidity, the strapping beam should be braided with wire. The load-bearing walls of the house are made up of wooden poles. At the end, you should get a stable frame structure.

Third step

On top of the waterproofing of the lower trim, lay out the rollers of cement or clay-sand mortar. Fill the gaps between such rollers with sawdust and proceed to laying out the firewood. Before laying firewood, it is recommended to impregnate it with an antiseptic composition.

Fourth step

Take a rounded knife and use it to spread the mortar between the stacked firewood. Over time, the wood will dry out, and you will need to fill the gaps with mortar as they appear.

Fifth step

Lay out the walls of firewood in layers. They laid a layer - filled up all the gaps with sawdust - laid a new layer and so on until the end. As a result, you will get already insulated walls.

sixth step

Sand the edges of the wood with sandpaper. Any kind of burrs will additionally retain moisture, so you need to get rid of them especially carefully.

In the end, you just have to fold the simplest truss system and install the selected roofing material. Give preference to lightweight materials. For example, bitumen is well suited for the roof of such a house.

From the inside, the walls can be plastered, sheathed with clapboard or trimmed at your discretion. Outside walls are usually left unchanged. In any case, finishing is recommended not earlier than after 1-2 years, because. during this time the wood will shrink. You will have to fill all the gaps that appear with the materials mentioned earlier.

The simplest house-hut can be built with minimal financial investment.

First step. Make a standard pile foundation and tie it with prefabricated beams.

Second phase. Install the floor beams of the house. The basis of such a structure is represented by rafters in the form of the letter "A". Rafters are installed on a pre-insulated floor. If the house will have a greater height, the elements of the truss system are spliced ​​in height.

Third stage. Sheathe the outer side of the walls of the house with OSB boards.

Fourth stage. Pull on the sheathed walls a wind-moisture-proof material such as isospan.

Fifth stage. Sheathe roof slopes with the OBS boards you already know. Such sheathing will be a good basis for rolled roofing material. If desired, you can equip a standard crate on the roof and use other finishing materials - profiled sheet, metal tile, etc.

Before laying the finishing roofing material, the roof must be insulated. Usually mineral wool is used for insulation. In the process of performing these works, do not forget about the need to create ventilation gaps. To organize them, a counter-lattice is equipped - it is enough to nail the transverse strips to the elements of the crate to make a small gap.

From the bottom of the roof, install ventilation grilles that will allow air to circulate normally in the under-roof space.

Excellent earthen house with your own hands

A house made of earth is one of the most ancient variants of residential buildings known to mankind. With the observance of technology from ordinary land, you can get a durable, fire-resistant and fairly warm building that does not require practically any financial investments for its construction.

First step

Prepare the foundation for the future home. In parallel with this, prepare the main building material for the construction of the house in question - bags filled with rammed earth. For the foundation, dig trenches with a depth of about 50-60 cm. Choose the width individually - it should correspond to the width of the bags of earth.

Fill the prepared trenches with gravel. The backfill must be carefully compacted. Cover the entire area under the future earthen house with an approximately 20-centimeter layer of gravel.

Second phase

Lay waterproofing material over the backfill.

Third stage

Draw the circles of the future walls with a building compass. It is desirable that the house has a round shape. Of course, it is possible to build an ordinary rectangular building from bags of earth, but it is the round walls that are characterized by the highest strength.

Fourth stage

Lay the first layer of pre-prepared bags on top of the previously laid waterproofing material. The mixture in these bags should include soil, sand, cement powder and gravel.

Fill the bags to about 80-85% of the volume and tamp as carefully as possible. Each bag used should be in the shape of a rectangle, like a brick. For better tamping, the mixture in the bag should be slightly moistened with water. Sew up the valves of the bags with ordinary wire.

Be especially careful when laying the first row of bags. Everything must be done in strict accordance with the previously applied markup. Tamp the bags and lightly dampen them with water.

Fifth stage

Lay 2 rows of barbed wire on the first layer of masonry. In this case, the barbed wire will take over the functions of the reinforcing layer. Seal all punctures and ruptures of the bags immediately with gray adhesive tape. This is waterproof tape.

Sixth stage

Start laying out the walls. Install door frames and window frames immediately. Lay each row of bags with earth with a double layer of barbed wire. Additionally, you can secure the wire with staples.

seventh stage

Fill the seams between the individual bags with a mixture of sand, cement, chopped straw and lime.

The bags need to be laid out with some offset seams, approximately the same as with traditional brickwork.

Having reached the height of a person, you can begin to shift each row of laid material to increase the strength of the walls being erected.

The laid walls are plastered. Before applying the plaster, the bags should be treated with cement laitance and allowed to dry. Plastering is carried out on a steel painting grid.

At the junction of the walls, perform additional reinforcement with the same barbed wire.

The interior decoration of an earthen house is usually limited to simple plastering.

In the end, it remains to equip the roof of the earthen house. First install the beam supports - they must be securely clamped between the bags. Sheathe the floors with OSB boards, and lay the finishing material on top. The best coating option for this case is bitumen.

After completing all the basic work, you can cover the walls of your earthen house with finishing plaster or paint.

If desired, even an ordinary change house can be converted into a quite comfortable country house.

First step. Prepare strip concrete foundation. It is also allowed to use a columnar foundation, but first you need to make sure that the soil on the ground is not subject to severe frost heaving.

Second phase. Let the concrete of the base gain at least half of the branded strength, and then install the change house on the foundation. A crane will help you with this. Adjust the position of the change house with the boards. Pre-treat the boards with an antiseptic and place them under the skids of the building.

Third stage. Assemble the frame of the extension to the change house. To do this, use a 10x5 cm beam. Install the supports on the veranda and triple the horizontal runs under the rafters.

Fourth stage. Sew on the outer side of the walls of the change house a crate for siding or other selected material. For additional insulation, put mineral wool into the crate and cover it with plastic wrap.

Insulate the floor and walls of the extension. From the inside, the insulation must be covered with vapor barrier material.

Fifth stage. Complete the exterior cladding of the house. It is most convenient and rational to use vinyl siding for this.

Sixth stage. Lay out the roof. Metal tile is best combined with siding. Otherwise, when choosing a finish coating, be guided by your preferences and financial capabilities.

Seventh stage. Attach snow guards to roof slopes. Insulate the attic as desired.

Eighth stage. Finish the interior of the house. For example, walls can be sheathed with drywall, covered with a couple of layers of putty and painted. Level the floors and install your preferred floor covering.

As a result, after the addition of an additional room and simple finishing work, the old change house turns into a very comfortable house with a separate bedroom and a large living room-kitchen.

Thus, for the construction of country houses, you can use a wide variety of materials. Craftsmen adapted almost everything that occurs in nature, and even straw, for such work!

Now you know how to build from affordable and inexpensive materials, and you can build a reliable, safe and comfortable house in your summer cottage.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself country house projects

After acquiring a suburban area for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes relevant. Well, to build it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, a huge “palace” is conceived, requiring the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually compact buildings are chosen for summer cottages, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for summer cottage construction is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.

Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the place and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.

Proe kt of a small country house

The size of the future home largely depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage, the number of family members and the material capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose an inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and time.

In any case, the first steps are drafting

Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Buildings of a larger area are erected much less frequently, and, mainly, in those cases when they are planned to be operated year-round. But this is more likely to be not a country house, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the location of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that may be established by the board of the gardening partnership, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. Most often, the following distances are required:

• The house should be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring site, and from the fence separating the site from the general passage (street) - at 5 meters.
• In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone structure, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden structure.
• So that the house does not cover neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building, at least equal to its height.

Usually, the highest is chosen for the installation of a country house. place in the area where water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. High humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always negatively affect the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, the following technologies for its construction are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log cabins, walls made of blocks or bricks.

For summer cottages, projects of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are mainly chosen. Often the building has an attic used to store garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday life, but which can always come in handy in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes also play the role of a ceiling.

If the family is large, and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be given over to the living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor - to arrange cozy sleeping places for the whole family.

Not necessarily in a country house, to build a full-fledged second floor, since an attic superstructure can perfectly fulfill its role. Having finished it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful healthy country atmosphere there.

Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for space heating should still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Usually, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast-iron heating and cooking stoves.

By the way, if the construction of a real fireplace or a brick oven is planned, then they must be included in the draft project.

There are also ready-made options for country houses, which are sold as a set in disassembled form, which you just need to deliver to the site and assemble. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions that set out the procedure for carrying out work, the main technological methods and the connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.

For land owner, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house on your own. The main advantage of this option can be called the fact that often the kit already includes everything you need for the building's electrical network, for its ventilation system, and even for installing a water supply system.

Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name

What type of house to choose?

Having decided on a rough plan for the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. Not only the type of the building itself will depend on this choice, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.

• The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. A wooden house can be built in a frame way, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, special fire-retardant impregnations are on sale, which significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is the neglect of the elementary requirements of fire safety by people in the vast majority of cases that causes a fire.

• The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with great reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less prone to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and a high price for materials.

• Very often, when building a country house, different materials are used. For example, a house is built of wood, but on a foundation of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since the foundation of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of wood walls, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house.

It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.

Stages of building a country house

Materials for building a country house

If you don’t want to mess around with calculations, then it’s better to purchase a prefabricated model of a house that has a certain area, for which you only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Prices for various types of timber

foundation material

For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:

- sand, gravel, cement;

- third-rate board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

- waterproofing material (roofing material);

- expanded clay of the middle fraction.

Wall and roof material

Since wood was chosen for the construction of walls, then, based on this, other materials will be selected:

- bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;

- fasteners - nails, screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening knots;

- vapor barrier film;

- insulation - mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;

- to cover the roof, it is better to choose a light material - ondulin or corrugated board.

After the installation site of the future house is determined, the materials are purchased, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. True, to begin with, you still have to decide on its type.

The foundation of a country house

Even when building such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you can’t do without a foundation. In the case under consideration, one of two types is ideally suited for this purpose - this is a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.

• The columnar foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.

How to build correctly, you can find out with all the details by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a strip foundation, you will need not only more materials, but also a fairly long time. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug around the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install the reinforcing structure, build the formwork and fill the pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will also take a month until the filled tape completely solidifies and it gains brand strength.

However, the strip foundation is still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient in that it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, for this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by clicking on the link provided.

If a columnar foundation is chosen, it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then fill in the resulting pit with a layer of sand of 30 ÷ 40 mm, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion medium fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be covered with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done so that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They do not tolerate expanded clay (especially small ones), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.

Expanded clay of fine fraction - an excellent remedy for rodents

To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.

Construction of a frame structure

For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure

The frame house can be placed both on a columnar and on a strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be securely waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material.

• If the project provides for a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general frame of the walls. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• Without exception, all wooden blanks must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of nests of insects or colonies of representatives of microflora - mold or fungus.

• After the blanks have been properly prepared and completely dry, during construction, the lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to mount the floor.

For the floor to be reliable, for the frame it is necessary to take high-quality bars of the desired section. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of sizes, but by laying a certain margin in their cross section.

The table shows the optimal dimensions of a timber for a frame house:

• The support beams of the frame are mounted on coronal bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are fixed with the help of corners or by tie-in. If the elements are large in cross section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.

• When the lower trim with support beams is ready, wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then, in finished form, are lifted and fixed to the frame strapping bars.

Another option is to lift the frame directly in place. For example, if a house is being built on its own, without assistants, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the shade alone to the height of the strapping, set it evenly and temporarily, until it is finally fixed, fix it. And this means that each of the bars will have to be set separately.

• The size of the bars for the racks of the wall frame should be at least 100 × 100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross section of at least 50 × 150 mm.

The bars are fixed to the lower harness with the help of powerful corners that are able to keep them in a vertical position. It is best to use not nails, but a self-tapping screw for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• When installing vertical racks, you must immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they should be installed in the frame free, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.

Then, when the upper strapping bar is installed and fixed on all other vertical racks, the section with the window opening is fixed in the place left for it.

• All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal braces on both sides - they will stiffen the entire wall structure.

• The doorway is equipped in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since the hinged door has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.

• If it is planned to sheathe the frame on the outside with clapboard, then the next step is to carry out this event. Sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow you to continue the installation of the attic floor and

The installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof is covered with a roof on the same day. It is highly undesirable for a freshly laid floor covering to get wet if it suddenly rains at night. Therefore, it is better to solve the issue with the roof first, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of truss systems

A few words need to be said about the types of truss systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, you need to have a general idea about this, to know which design is better to choose.

Rafter systems are of two types - hanging and layered.

Hanging system

The hanging truss system is distinguished by the fact that it is arranged only on external load-bearing walls and does not have other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, the hanging rafters are fastened with a puff.

The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously be a frame for filing the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.

Layered system

The layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal capital partitions that will become additional points of support. Such a scheme can also be used in the construction of the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on a foundation.

With this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so fewer retaining elements can be used. It is great for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.

floor beams

An important structural element - floor beams

The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit snugly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

Beams are fixed to the frame structure of the walls with nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.

Having completed the installation of the overlapping beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary boarding is laid on the floor beams to ensure the comfort of moving along the attic plane during the installation of rafters.

Installation of the truss system

The roof truss system can be mounted using a different sequence of fixing its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the extreme pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then raise them to the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and already mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
• Second option. To begin with, install the middle racks along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge bar or board, on which the rafters are then attached.
• Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are fastened together with a ridge pad, and their lower side is fixed on the wall trim, which in this embodiment will act as a Mauerlat.

The cross section of the beams or logs used for the rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two fulcrum, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters

The maximum allowable length of the rafter leg (in mm)	Rafter spacing (in mm)
	1100		1400		1750		2100
	Section of the rafter leg (in mm)
	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø
up to 3000	80×100	100	80×100	130	90×100	150	90×160	160
up to 3600	80×130	130	80×160	160	80×180	180	90×180	180
up to 4300	80×160	160	80×180	180	90×180	180	100×200	200
up to 5000	80×180	180	80×200	200	100×200	200	-	-
up to 5800	80×200	200	100×200	200	-	-	-	-
up to 6500	100×200	200	120×220	240	-	-	-	-

It should be noted that the rafter attachment point in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened on the ridge and how long they are.

If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a cut is shown in the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut off at a right angle with respect to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed on it using a special mounting plate, a sliding support, a corner, a bracket, nails or long self-tapping screws.

If the house is very small, then after fixing the rafters on the strapping, tying them with a ridge beam or board, you most likely will not have to install additional retaining elements.

Detailed information about the exact one can be obtained from a special publication of our portal by clicking on the recommended link:

For the installation of additional, reinforcing elements of the truss system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for roofing.

• The first thing that needs to be done from the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with brackets, and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.

The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower, eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.

• The main crate is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the roofing material sheets.

If a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of the laths of the lathing, the slopes are covered with a continuous one - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing material, which is overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and glued together with bituminous mastic. Another option is to use soft bituminous decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.

• For wooden houses, the following roofing materials are most often used (depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
  

• On the prepared base, the selected roofing material is laid and fixed. Work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are mounted in the same way.

Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation scheme in the direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions attached to them.

Also, for any type of sheet roofing materials, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm), and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction, along the roof, is determined.

• Almost all roofing materials are fixed on the crate with the help of special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to choose and fix the ridge elements of the roof correctly, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Usually the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
• Further, the cornice overhang of the roof is finished - this can be done with a wooden or plastic clapboard. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.

• Then, elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the windboard - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.

• Further, the gable sides of the truss system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards are used for this.

For lining along the perimeter of the gable triangle, a special profile is fixed, into which panels prepared and cut at the right angle will be installed. Installation is usually carried out symmetrically - from the middle rack to one and then the other side - then the skin will turn out to be even and neat.

By the way, to mount the lining, Besides, you can horizontally, herringbone or come up with a more complex pattern.

Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.

Now, having finished the external roofing and being sure that the rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can proceed to the installation of windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.

Installation of windows and doors

• Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them, set according to the level. For preliminary fixation, when the frame is set, spacers made of wooden bars or slats are installed between it and the bars of the opening.

Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give accuracy to the general appearance of the house.

• The installation of the door is best done together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure to the level in the doorway of the wall.

The door is best installed as a block - together with the frame and leaf

Exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, enclose wedges (inserts) from wooden slats. The door frame is fixed to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with mounting foam.

Having installed windows and doors in all, you can proceed to the installation of the floor.

Installation and floor insulation

To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.

• To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame load-bearing beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.

• Further, boards sawn exactly to size are laid on the cranial bars, or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
• From above, the laid subfloor is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are overlapped (by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and glued at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Further, insulating material is laid or poured on the vapor barrier film. If there is no desire to have as neighbors who like to settle under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.

• On top of the insulation, another layer of film membrane is laid, which is nailed to the supporting beams with brackets. The laying principle is exactly the same as on the subfloor.

With the floor - finished!

• Then the whole structure is covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is absent, place the insulation along the inner slopes of the roof.

• First, vapor barrier material is fixed to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. At the same time, insulation mats are laid between the racks of the frame. It is necessary to make sure that the mats stand as tightly as possible with an emphasis on the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.

That is why mineral wool is most often used as a heater - after dense laying between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.

• After that, all walls are again tightened with a vapor barrier film.

• The next step is wall cladding with wooden clapboard, or plywood. The latter, with subsequent decorative wall decoration, can be painted with water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Further, the attic floor is insulated, where the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

If the ceiling is sheathed from the side of the house with drywall or clapboard, then we must not forget that it is impossible to step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. It is necessary to move carefully along the floor beams.

• In the event that the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden accessories, then on top of the insulation on the floor beams, it is necessary to fix the flooring from boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm.
• The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor plinths and closing the corners with fittings.

Extensions to the house

The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and on the porch.

If space is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.

Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to manage without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable craftsman who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how certain nodes are correctly mounted in the house structure. You can "mobilize" relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.

Video: construction of a country house using frame technology