Is it necessary to prime and putty the walls before wallpapering? Puttying under the wallpaper - the nuances of preparing the walls Is it necessary to putty the walls if they are even.

The choice of putty based on the material of the wall: concrete, brick, wood. Selection of primer for putty. Principles of application of material, sanding. Tips for newbies.

Putty for wallpaper

Before you start wallpapering, you need to prepare the walls.

Putty under the wallpaper is applied only after all the work on plastering the walls is completed.

Drywall is called dry plaster, this base should also be puttied and prepared for pasting.

Do I need to putty the walls under the wallpaper

This should be done for several reasons:

1. Plastered walls have many defects that will be visible when wallpapering. They can especially stand out when striped wallpaper or thin, light colors are glued.
2. After plastering, when drying, the walls may have cracks. They definitely need to be sealed. Because the reasons for the appearance of this deficiency are unknown - they expand from the movement of the soil, if the solution is not made correctly, they can remain unchanged.
3. After puttying, the walls become more protected from external factors.
4. Puttying a plasterboard wall is necessary because masters do not recommend gluing wallpaper on “bare” drywall for many reasons - from the loss of the appearance of the wallpaper to unpleasant surprises when they are removed.

Puttying the surface is carried out in several stages:

1. Determination of the unevenness of the wall and its preparation.
2. Applying the starter mix.
3. Finishing coating and bringing the surface to the ideal.

At proper conduct puttying works, the surface will be ready for wallpapering.

The correctness of the work will prevent peeling of the putty layers and falling off of the wallpaper.

Types of ready-made putty for walls: which is better

A well-putty surface is the result of the final work of the master and an indicator of the materials used.

Ready-made putty mixtures allow you to reduce the time for the master to knead the putty.

The most used types of ready-made putties:

1. Latex acrylic - apply to any surface, including drywall. Its widest application is in surface finishing. An elastic solution allows you to make a putty layer of 1-3 mm.
2. Oil-glue and adhesive - has high density, so professionals work with it. It is difficult to apply to the surface, but when dried it has a certain strength.
3. Putty with PVA. It has antifungal components, therefore it is applicable in wet rooms.

It is better for a novice master to work with a ready-made solution. It is more plastic, fits well on the plaster and retains its qualities after drying.

Homepage: the best choice

In addition to ready-made mixtures, dry putty solutions are sold on the market.
The starting putty is applied to the prepared plastered walls.

The most commonly used putties are:

• cement mortars;
• gypsum mixes;
• polymer putties.

Cement putty is used in wet room. It is coarse-grained, with a gray tint.

Gypsum mixtures - used in a dry room, which is heated in winter. It contains quicklime.

Polymer - used in both wet and dry rooms. Has high elasticity.

Manufacturers of starting putty:

1. Starting putty Knauf is designed for indoor use. It has a plaster base. Due to its environmentally friendly composition, the mixture is used in children's rooms. The downside of putty is considered a quick solidification. The maximum layer of the applied solution is 1.5cm.
2. Volma-Standard. Made up of plaster and mineral compositions. After puttying, you can start gluing. The surface is smooth and durable. The downside is the fast setting.
3. Osnovit-Econsilk – plaster base. Designed for dry rooms. Plastic, no shrinkage. The thickness of the applied layer is 1 mm, if more, then cracks appear during drying.

Observing the correct preparation of the solution, wall puttying will have a good result.

Finishing: how to choose according to the rating of the best

After the starting putty has dried and the work is done, the finishing mixture is applied. The most popular are:

1. Prospectors - Finishing. The composition includes gypsum and additives. Used in rooms with high humidity. Non-shrink, plastic, quick-drying. Minus - low surface strength after drying.
2. WEBERLR+. The applied layer is 1-5 mm. the working solution does not harden within 2 days. After drying, a smooth, smooth white surface is obtained. Putty is applied both manually and mechanically.
3. Sheetrock Superfinish - contains vinyl additives, so the putty has high plasticity. 2 mm layer dries after 5 hours. However, all subsequent work of the master is recommended to be carried out a day after application. Has shrinkage.

Which one to choose a good coarse-grained

Coarse-grained putty is needed for the initial processing of the wall after plastering. The most popular are:

• Unis Bleek - includes natural materials. Do not use in rooms with high humidity. A reinforcing mesh is used to putty the surface. There is no shrinkage. It has plasticity, after drying there are no cracks;
• Vgt acrylic universal - based on acrylic. Layer thickness 1-7 mm. Has slight shrinkage good adhesion.

Coarse-grained putties are all types of cement-based mixtures.

Which one is better for deep leveling

Starter putties. With their help, it is possible to eliminate all errors plastering works, cracks. It is coarse-grained, applied to the surface up to 20 mm.

Leading Producers:

• Putty Knauf HP (starting) - gypsum putty, applied with a layer of 4 mm to 15 mm. The main direction is leveling the surface before finishing. After mixing, the solution quickly hardens, after 15 minutes the work stops. Does not shrink.
• Ceresit CT 29 starter - work on a concrete, brick, cement-sand wall. It closes up cracks, recesses left after plastering. The maximum applied layer is 20 mm. Not suitable for work in a room with high humidity. After mixing, the solution can be used within 50 minutes. It takes 10-15 hours for complete drying on the surface. High strength.
• Kreisel 662 is universal - it contains cement and lime. Inflict thin layer on the surface covered with plaster, as well as without coating. Has high adhesion. Use the mixture in rooms with high humidity. The maximum layer is 3 mm., there is shrinkage.

When cracks are detected, in addition to putty, reinforcing tape should be used. She won't let the crack get bigger.

What putty to choose for drywall

The plasterboard surface is treated several times. Initially, putty is used for joints along with reinforced tape. The second stage is the coating of the starting putty.

The next step is to cover the surface with a finishing putty. Only after the complete drying of one layer, it is necessary to proceed to the next work.

Under the wallpaper, the plasterboard surface is covered with layers of putty for greater strength of the entire structure.

For a neat appearance, because if thin wallpaper is pasted onto sheets without processing, the color of the wall will appear on the wallpaper.

How to putty wood surfaces before wallpapering

Puttying a wooden surface is different from concrete, brick. There are factors influencing the choice of putty mixture for wood:

• high adhesion - the service life of the putty under the wallpaper depends on this;
• the solution must be elastic;
• drying speed.

Applicable types of mortar for wood surfaces:

1. Gypsum mixture.
2. Latex putty.
3. Acrylic blend.
4. Oil mixture.
5. Putty with PVA.

Basically, craftsmen use gypsum mixtures that do not shrink and have good plasticity.

What putty is better to putty raw concrete

The concrete wall basically does not have large differences in the plane. Therefore, having skipped the plastering, they immediately proceed to puttying with the starting composition.

The base coat consists of several layers. Moreover, the second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. Stir to cover cement compositions. They shrink, so the layer should not be thick.

The final layer should be thin. It's hard to hide underneath grey colour starting material, however, a thin layer makes the surface smooth, ready for wallpapering.

Also apply universal putties. But, they are applied in a thin layer 2 times. They are plastic and do not shrink. If the walls are even, the differences are 2-5 mm, then the use of mixtures is permissible.

How many layers should be applied to concrete bare walls

On concrete almost flat surface apply 1 layer of starting putty. The layer thickness does not exceed 15 mm. For beginners, to level the wall, you need to use a perforated beacon profile. It is fixed on the mixture, adjust the level of evenness. Work begins only after the complete drying of the solution under the profile.

Attention. If there is wooden slats, they are used as beacons. But, the rail should not be high and notched, otherwise there will be a ribbed surface.

What technologies exist

Masters use 4 methods that are suitable for beginners to work:

1. Mechanical method of applying the solution.
2. Semi-mechanical - applying the mixture, and then leveling it with a spatula.
3. Beacon - used for starting puttying.

For mechanical way a machine that sprays putty with a thin layer is applicable. After applying the layer, it is necessary to level the plane with a spatula with a wide spatula.

Semi-mechanical - the machine throws large drops onto the wall, which must be stretched evenly over the entire wall.

Beacon is applicable for starting plaster. Suitable for beginners. The use of beacon profiles will speed up and facilitate the work.

How to putty walls with your own hands for beginners without experience: a step-by-step guide

Beginning masters need to know the nuances and correctness of the work.

The stages of preparing the solution, applying the material to the surface include:

• to prepare the solution, you must carefully read the instructions and know exactly how much water is needed for mixing;
• the starting solution is applied to the surface horizontally and vertically. To avoid bumps, it is not necessary to apply the solution from the floor itself. He picks up trash. Angle - here it is necessary to go with a spatula perpendicular to the corner, horizontally to the floor. So there will be no "washboard";
• for productive work, the solution is prepared in small portions. During development, it will not have time to freeze;
• the finishing layer is applied to the primed surface with a layer of 2 mm;
• when puttying, the tool must be held at an angle of 30 degrees;
• after applying the mortar to the walls, putty the corner with an angled spatula.

Surface preparation

In order for the surface to be perfectly flat, smooth, it is necessary to prepare the surface. This process consists of several steps:

1. Cleaning the walls from dust, extra pebbles, frozen drops of plaster. For cleaning use mechanical means- grinders, brushes, spatulas.
2. Surface priming. This must be done for degreasing, and almost all primers contain antiseptic agents that protect the surface from mold.

After processing the wall, proceed to subsequent work.

Choosing the right tool

For proper puttying with your own hands, you need to have a tool:

• construction mixer;
• a set of spatulas - a wide spatula, small, angular;
• brush, roller for priming;
• the rule for creating a flat wall is 2 meters;
• level to control the evenness of the wall;
• sandpaper for rubbing the surface;
• skinner;
• container for the mixture.

All tools and containers must be clean. This will speed up the process and prevent the solution from quickly hardening. Since the frozen particles in the container and on the spatulas accelerate the solidification of the mixture.

How for a beginner to putty uneven surfaces with starting putty

For applying the starting mixture to a dry, clean wall, beginners are recommended to use metal beacons-profiles. They are installed along the wall so that from one profile to another maximum distance 1.5 meters.

Lighthouses are put on putty pads. Evenness is displayed by level. The excess solution that has come out is removed. The mixture must dry completely before starting work.

The putty is applied with pads on the wall and stretched over the surface without crawling out. installed beacons. The evenness of the surface is formed by the rule. With its help, the solution is tightened, the excess is removed from the tool. If necessary, apply a second layer of the solution.

The second layer is applied only after the first has dried.

If the putty has shrinkage, then 20 minutes after application, it must be tightened with the rule.

How many times the mixture is applied before it hardens

The starting mixture is applied in a layer of 20 mm.

If you need to level the wall with a large layer, then apply a second layer.

But, this happens in rare cases, because after plastering the unevenness is on average up to 1 cm.

Puttying of bare walls is carried out if the unevenness is 2 cm. plaster layer applied once, maybe with an overlap.

How and what is the best way to check the readiness of the surface for the subsequent stages of work

After puttying the wall, the work must be left for a while. It all depends on the composition. Cement mortars shrink: after 20 minutes, the treated wall must be tightened with a rule. After passing 1 hour, you need to run your palm over the surface, it should give “milk”, while the solution has already hardened. This milk is carefully removed with a spatula. They make a wash. cement mortar freezes for about a day. The check goes with the palm of your hand, the solution should not stick.

Gypsum and polymer mixtures do not shrink. After application, they should not be touched for at least 10 hours. After that, with a dry palm, you need to hold the surface. It should be dry and smooth. If dampness or sticking is felt, then the surface is left for another time.

The manufacturer's packaging indicates exact time drying of the mixture on the surface. This time must be waited.

Do I need a primer for finishing putty: which one to use

All primers differ in their composition and purpose. Priming mixtures must be applied before finishing puttying for the following reasons:

• the primer increases the adhesion of the applied materials. That is top coat it will be better to lie down on a primed surface;
• if, after the starting mixture has dried, a “cobweb” of microcracks appears on the surface, then the primer clogs them, preventing moisture from penetrating there;
• the primer creates a thin film on the plane, protection against absorption of moisture and components of the finishing layer into the starting one. Thanks to this, the finishing solution lays down evenly. Material consumption is reduced.

The compatibility of the primer with putty is indicated in the table:

How to apply the finish yourself and properly putty

For correct application material on the surface, it is necessary to follow the principle - applying the material from dry to wet. It is necessary to step back from the ceiling by 30-40 cm and apply a layer of mortar. From the ceiling, putty is applied with vertical movements.

Putty is best applied under side light. To do this, use a diode lamp or spotlight. Uncertain movement with a spatula and too thick putty leave a ribbed mark on the surface, visible under the light of a lamp.

Vertical movements with a spatula near corners are unacceptable. The tool touches an adjacent wall - a "washboard" appears. The tool is led from the corner to the opposite wall.

The finishing putty is applied in a layer of 1-3 mm, so the mixture should not be thick.

What to do after finishing putty: grout

After the walls have dried, they are sanded - overwritten.

To work you need:

• paint bar;
• respirator;
• diode lamp;
• diamond mesh or sandpaper.

There are 2 ways to sand walls:

1. Grouting walls with diamond mesh or sandpaper(quickly clogged) under the wallpaper.
2. Grout under the lamp with fine-grained “sandpaper”.

In the first method, a bar is used, on which a mesh of fraction 300-400 is used. There are irregularities on the wall, invisible without a lamp. It is necessary to put on a mask and walk in a circular motion along the entire wall. From time to time use a vacuum cleaner to collect dust on the floor.

When performing work, a lot of dust appears, so you will need old vacuum cleaner and good ventilation.

In the second case, the lamp is installed on the side so that the light goes along the wall. Then you can see all the flaws after the finish layer. A mesh with a fine fraction of 600 and above is put on the bar. Starting from the corner, look at the wall. With all the small recesses, tubercles, stripes, grouting is carried out in a circular motion.

The second method is applicable for surfaces to be painted, for gluing thin wallpapers that repeat the surface structure.

When can I start gluing

After sanding the surface, it is necessary to clean the walls of dust with a brush, dry rags. This is done with a vacuum cleaner at the first speed. After cleaning the wall, it must be covered with a primer. After drying, it will leave a thin film that will protect the absorption of the adhesive into the surface.

When the primer is completely dry, start working with wallpaper.

Having studied all the subtleties of the choice of putty, the surface will be perfectly flat, durable. Do not miss small nuances from work, they play important role in the formation of a solid wall for wallpaper.

Walls with putty and wallpaper have an attractive appearance, long warranty period.

Useful video

If the walls were not finished with plasterboard sheets, then the question of putty would not arise, since this work would have to be done. But whether it is necessary to putty drywall under the wallpaper or not, many people ask, because most home craftsmen are currently trying to make repairs with their own hands.

Why does this question arise, because this finishing material has a flat and smooth surface?

We putty drywall

Three reasons:

1. Whether you like it or not, the surface of drywall laid on the wall will have small drops, especially at the attachment points. And if they are not puttied, then the unevenness of the surface under the wallpaper will stand out strongly.
2. The seams sealed with putty will also stand out, especially if it is decided to stick wallpaper in light colors on the wall. Therefore, it is necessary to level the drywall over the entire plane of the wall.
3. If you glue the wallpaper directly on the drywall, then it becomes difficult to replace them during the next repair. It is impossible to remove such wallpaper without damaging the cardboard surface.

Related articles:

• How to putty drywall
• How to plaster drywall
• Is it possible to glue wallpaper on drywall

How to putty drywall correctly

It may seem to many that there is nothing complicated in this process. Basically, that's the way it is. It is only necessary to follow the rules for applying putty mortar to drywall and take into account some of the nuances associated with a purely technological process.

Ready putty mortar

Choosing putty

To choose the right putty mortar, you need to listen to some advice and recommendations from experts.

• If you find the mark "for outdoor use" on the packaging of the solution, then this is not for you.
• Pay attention to the expiration date.
• It is not recommended to purchase the most cheap material. Quality and reliability cost money. In addition, cheaper material has more consumption, so the savings here are in great doubt.
• Give preference to the finished solution, not the dry mixture. The probability that you will accurately dilute the dry mixture with water is not so great, the error may appear on the quality of both the material and the work being done. Plus, you won’t have to spend time preparing the mixture and looking for tools (for example, a construction mixer).

Surface preparation

We return to the question of whether it is necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering. And let's start with what drywall sheet- This is already a flat surface, ready for finishing. But the most important point, which affects the quality of the process, these are incorrectly screwed self-tapping screws. What is meant?

Plasterboard wall primer

The wall for wallpapering, as mentioned above, should be even and smooth. Small defects sheets and protruding screws create obstacles to obtaining a quality surface. Therefore, you will have to additionally prepare a drywall wall.

Advice!
Walk the spatula along the joints of the sheets. If you do not hear a metallic ringing, then everything is fine. If the ringing appeared, then the tool touched the protruding screw, which must be screwed in deeper.

But this question with self-tapping screws is not closed. See if they are screwed in deeply. If the fastener cap has gone deeper than half the thickness of the sheet, then such a self-tapping screw must be unscrewed, and a new one must be screwed in five centimeters to the side, only to do it correctly.

Scratches, small cracks, places where there is no cardboard must be puttied in advance. If such defects have enough big sizes(meaning depth), then they will have to be embedded in several layers. After the material dries, it is necessary to clean the drywall surface from dust and dirt.

The next step is the primer. It makes no sense to save on this material, its consumption is small, so the costs will be scanty. The primer is usually applied to the wall with a roller. And after it dries, you can begin to seal the joints using sickle tape.

Sickle ribbon sticker

Currently, manufacturers produce self-adhesive tapes that are laid on the joints so that the latter lies exactly in the middle of the sickle. After that, another layer of putty mortar is applied to the joint, which must dry before the main process.

The process of applying putty

As mentioned above, this is a simple procedure. Here you need to know the basics, so we have posted a video on the website page to help you. This is a kind of instruction that answers the question posed in the topic of the article, is it necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering.

Advice!
For work, choose a putty from the "finishing" category. This is a fine-grained material that can cover the plasterboard surface evenly and with a thin layer.
But it is better to choose it from well-known manufacturers, which in fact guarantee high quality. The price of such material is more expensive.

Applying putty

In order to carry out this process, you will need two spatulas:

1. with a wide working surface(big);
2. small spatula.

The first is used to apply the material to the wall, the second is used to pry the putty from the container and apply it to the first spatula, stretching it along the entire length of the working area. When puttying the corners of the room, you can use the so-called corner spatula.

There are several nuances that you need to pay attention to. First, you need to start work from above, gradually going down.

Secondly, putty is applied in several layers.

• The first layer is a leveling layer, with its help, surface cavities that are not visible to the eye are filled.
• The second layer is a complete drywall finish.

Please note that before applying the second layer, the first must be dried. The same goes for the last layer.

Carrying out this process, you can not rush, everything must be done carefully. Special attention- the joints where the sickle tape was pasted. It is no secret that the putty shrinks in volume when it dries, so dents can form in these places that need to be filled.

Do I need to putty the walls before wallpapering and how to do it right

Do-it-yourself putty for wallpaper

You can glue wallpaper on almost any wall. The main thing is that they are dry and even.
When the latter condition is not true, the surface is plastered while leveling. And here the question arises: is it necessary to putty the walls before sticking wallpaper or can you do without this procedure? We answer.

Why do I need putty under the wallpaper

Remember what wallpaper used to be? Paper, with edges that had to be cut off on one side and glued with an overlap. This made it possible not to particularly care about the smoothness of the base, most often the walls in front of final finishing covered with old newspapers.
Modern wallpaper glued together. And the slightest hole or protrusion at the junction of adjacent canvases leads to a poor-quality seam. Ideally, it should be completely invisible, so the base needs careful alignment.
But the role of putty is not only that.

Putty functions

Apart from final alignment walls or ceilings, finishing putty allows you to solve other problems, which include:

• Elimination of such defects as cracks, chips, large scratches, etc.;
• Giving the base greater strength;
• Increasing the adhesive properties of the base - its ability to firmly adhere to the finish coating;

Note. This property is fully possessed by primers, and in some cases it is enough to use only them if other qualities of putty are not relevant in your case.

• Reducing the ability of the wall material to absorb moisture. This is important for high-quality wallpaper stickers and saves glue;
• Surface color matching. White putty will reliably protect the wallpaper (see Wall decoration with wallpaper in the correct design) from stains that can shine through them from an untreated wall.

With such a whiteness of the walls, as in the photo, it is not scary to paste over them even with thin-layer light wallpaper

As you can see, putty has many functions, and any of them can play decisive role as a finish.

Putty of different materials

Now let's figure out whether putty is always needed and how it depends on the base material:

• Brick walls definitely need alignment. If the masonry is sufficiently even, you can do without plaster, using several layers of starting coarse putty, and finishing the preliminary finishing with a thin finishing layer.

Brick wall putty

• But concrete walls can be so smooth and strong that they do not require puttying. Especially if they have an even color, you have chosen fairly dense, non-translucent wallpaper, and the room will have a constant temperature and normal humidity.
  But it is imperative to prime them before pasting - this is required by the instructions. The primer will improve adhesion and create a moisture-proof film on the surface.

For reference. If on concrete surface there are small potholes and chips or joints between the plates, it is enough to fill only these places with putty.

Quality surface - a rarity for concrete, so more often it still has to be puttied

• Plaster. Plaster mixtures pretty rough. And even if the surface turned out to be even, it is unlikely to be smooth. Sand particles make it rough, unsuitable for wallpapering.
• Plasterboard walls still cause the largest amount of controversy on the topic - whether they need to be puttied or can only be limited to sealing the seams. After all, they are used just to level the walls instead of plaster.
  In this case, putty is also needed, but to protect the drywall itself (see How to putty a drywall ceiling and avoid mistakes), or rather, its external paper cover. If you stick the wallpaper directly on it, then during the next repair, the paper will be removed along with the old wallpaper, exposing the gypsum core, which will lead to the need for a complete replacement of the sheets.
  It is clear that the price of such a repair is incomparable with the cost of putty.

At drywall, the joints are first puttied, and then the entire surface is thinly layered

• Requires puttying and wooden surfaces- from plywood, OSB boards and other similar materials. The reason is their high absorbency. Water from the wallpaper adhesive can cause the base to swell, causing the wallpaper to fall off.

Note. Before puttying the walls before wallpapering, they must be primed with a resin-based compound to protect them from moisture.

Conclusion

As a rule, you need to putty under the wallpaper any surface, even if it looks solid, even and smooth. Another thing is that it is not necessary to bring it to perfection, since minor flaws will be hidden under the coating.
But how to do this, you can find out by looking in this article or by reading the relevant materials on our website.

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There are many on the market today finishing materials capable of satisfying even the most demanding customer. But when it comes to wall decoration, the most popular material wallpaper remains. This is due to their availability, diversity, and the fact that with their help you can easily and quickly transform the look of a house or apartment.

Why is it necessary to putty walls before wallpapering

Yes, sticking wallpaper is not difficult, but does it make sense to stick them on unprepared walls, on the surface of which there are many large and small irregularities? Often also after the removal of the previous finishing coating the surface crumbles, which is completely unacceptable in the case of their subsequent finishing with wallpaper.

All these problems are solved by applying leveling putty to the walls, followed by priming.

The volume and number of stages of puttying work depend on two circumstances: the degree of evenness or unevenness of the base and the type of wallpaper that is planned to be applied.

For example, liquid, textured or thick wallpaper on a non-woven base is able to hide minor flaws on the walls. But on thin wallpaper, even the smallest defects will be clearly visible.

The base for the wallpaper can also be different:

• When it comes to walls with crumbling top layer old plaster, then there is no choice - you will have to putty in full.
• Do not flatter yourself in the case of seemingly even concrete walls in a new house - the surface of the panels is covered with a scattering of small shells and pores, so a putty layer is necessary to level them and improve surface adhesion.
• Smooth plasterboard partitions also need to be putty. First, it is necessary to glue and putty the seams between adjacent sheets. Secondly, wallpaper pasted directly on a layer of kraft paper can later be removed only together with it. But after that, a serious repair of the entire surface of the partition will be required.

So avoid this step repair work there is no possibility.

Therefore, you need to deal with the following questions:

• what putty you need to buy;
• what tool will be needed;
• how to do the job correctly to achieve a high-quality result.

There is no single answer to this question, each case deserves separate consideration.

All putty compositions available on the market can be divided according to various criteria:

• according to the degree of readiness for use;
• by appointment;
• by composition.

According to the degree of readiness, putties are divided into:

• powdered, requiring preparation at the workplace;
• ready.

Powder formulations are sold in bags, they are cheaper than ready-made ones, but some effort will be required to bring them into working condition. The technology for preparing putty is always indicated on the package, so it is not recommended to break it to obtain a high-quality mixture.

Ready putties are a paste. They are packed in buckets of various capacities, so choosing the right amount will not be difficult. They are ready to use, so you don't have to mess around with cooking. The shelf life of such putty is quite large. If the composition is not fully developed, you just need to tightly close the bucket with a lid so that it does not dry out. This is a more expensive material, so powder compositions are usually preferred for large volumes of work.

By appointment, all putties are divided into the following groups:

• The composition of a narrow specialization. There are several subspecies of this material intended for use with a specific base: for drywall joints, for finishing floor slabs, for gypsum blocks, etc. The purpose of the composition is always indicated on the package.
• Universal putty - has a wide application, can be used both as a starting layer and as a finish. If you need to finish surfaces from different materials, then such a composition can replace any special putty. But you need to be aware that the quality of the finish will be lower than when using special putties.
• Starting putty (leveling) - has high penetrating properties and excellent adhesion, which allows it to effectively level cracks and surface irregularities. Usually applied in a layer of 5-7 mm, but if necessary, the layer thickness can reach 15 mm.
• Finishing putty - is applied to the dried layer of the starting one, but in the case of a flat surface it can also be applied to the base itself. It is intended for the final alignment of small irregularities. It is better to immediately purchase the starting and finishing putty of the same brand, this guarantees good adhesion of the layers. Finishing putty is an ideal basis for subsequent wallpapering.

According to the composition of putty are divided into:

• Oil-adhesive compositions. This type of material was once the only one, but is now considered obsolete. The cost of such putties is low, but the quality of the finish with their help leaves much to be desired.
• Cement compositions - are highly moisture resistant, so they can be used to level surfaces in rooms with high level humidity (bathrooms, kitchens).

• Gypsum putties - differ in whiteness and fast drying time of the layers. Require high speed. Gypsum putties are ideal for wall decoration in residential areas with normal levels of humidity.
• Polymer blends - they use a polymer substance as a binder. These compositions are widely used and differ high quality. Polymer blends require proper storage and are the most expensive.

When choosing a putty composition, you need to pay attention to its compatibility with the material that will be used in the next step.

When it comes to wallpapering the best option will be a dry mix. If the repair is delayed, then you need to make sure that the putty is stored under the conditions recommended by the manufacturer.

Do not think that for puttying you only need putty.

In order to carry out the work qualitatively, the following materials are needed:

• Primer - better with the addition of an antiseptic, this will protect the surface from the appearance of mold colonies.
• Putty - starting and finishing (better than one brand).
• Repair composition - used to level large irregularities before applying the starting putty. For these purposes it can be used cement-sand mortar with fine aggregate or polymer putty.
• When drywall walls you will also need a sickle - for gluing the seams between the sheets.

You also need to stock up on all the necessary tools:

• Level - to control the verticality of wall surfaces.
• Containers for diluting putty and soaking tools.
• Rule - you will need to level the layer of starting putty with a large curvature of the walls.
• Spatulas various shapes and sizes. You need straight spatulas with a width of 50 to 500 mm, as well as an angled spatula - with its help it is easier to remove corners.
• An electric drill with a mixer nozzle or a construction mixer for mixing putty composition.
• Grater - for smoothing and rubbing the surface. Well, if it will have a replaceable coating.
• Roller and brush - for applying a primer.

Particular attention should be paid to the surface of the tools (especially spatulas) - it must be absolutely flat and smooth.

Any defects in the tool reduce the quality of work and complicate it.

Surfaces must be prepared before the start of puttying.

Depending on what kind of coating they had, this is done in various ways:

• Old paint can be removed by heating it building hair dryer and then scraped off with a scraper. You can use a grinder for this, but there will be a lot of dust, so you will have to protect your eyes and respiratory organs.
• Wallpaper can be moistened with a roller or spray gun, wait and remove from the walls, helping yourself with a spatula.
• If the plaster does not hold well, then it will have to be beaten off. Although in the case of a thin layer, you can moisten it with water, and then remove it with a sharp spatula.

After removing the old finishing layer, noticeable cracks and irregularities usually remain on the surfaces, which must first be repaired. It is not worth covering them with putty - it can crack when it dries. Therefore, the cracks are deepened, primed and filled with a repair compound.

After the repaired places are dry, the entire surface is primed using a roller. If the surface greedily absorbs moisture, then the priming must be repeated. You can proceed to the application of putty only after the walls have dried.

To receive you need to smooth walls, it is important to prepare the putty composition very conscientiously.

It should be homogeneous - without lumps and delamination, and also have the correct consistency of thick sour cream. Therefore, strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Proceed as follows:

• Pour water into the container in the required amount. It must be at room temperature. If you have chosen gypsum putty, then do not dilute a lot of material at once, it may dry out. The life of the diluted putty is indicated on the package.
• Pour the dry mixture into the water and knead it with a mixer until a uniform consistency is achieved.
• Before mixing the next portion of the composition, the container and the tool must be thoroughly rinsed, otherwise the fresh composition will be spoiled by small grains of hardened putty.

You can start applying the starting layer of putty:

• To do this, it is better to use a wide spatula, on which a solution is applied with a small spatula.
• Work starts from the corner of the room. The movements are smooth - the putty is distributed over the surface with a layer 2-3 mm thick. The spatula is held at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall.
• Putty is applied in strips with an overlap of 60-80 mm.
• Having processed part of the surface, check the uniformity of the applied layer as a rule. To detect irregularities, the surface must be illuminated with a lamp installed at an angle. The resulting shadows will help to identify defects and correct them before the solution dries.
• The corners of the room are formed with a corner spatula.
• Having finished applying the starting layer, it is overwritten, without waiting for complete drying. This can be done with a grater or grinder in circular motions.
• Then the surface is again highlighted to detect defects, which are eliminated by re-applying the starting putty.
• Then the surface is polished again.

• The finishing composition is applied if necessary, perfect evenness of the walls. This is especially important when finishing thin wallpaper. In this case, the surface is illuminated by several light sources in order to identify the slightest irregularities. The finishing putty is applied in a much thinner layer than the starting one - 1-2 mm. The mixture is carefully applied to the spatula and stretched over the surface without much pressure in the upward direction, also starting from the corner.

Decorative layer:

• The decorative putty layer is always applied in 2 layers. Rubbing the first layer is done with fine-grained sandpaper.
• The second is applied after drying and grouting the first. For mashing it, a grater with a suede or leather nozzle is used.
• After drying the putty, the surfaces must be primed.

Even if you are in a hurry to repair, you should not artificially speed up the drying of the putty layers. Excessive heating or ventilation of the room can cause cracking of the putty - then the work will have to be repeated.

October 16, 2017
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Is it worth it to putty the walls before wallpapering, what material should be used for this and how to do it correctly rough finish? For those who are looking for answers to these questions, I want to talk about all the nuances associated with wall puttying under wallpaper. I am sure that this information will help you to qualitatively repair your home.

What you need to know about wall putty

Do I need to putty the base

Many beginners are interested in - is it necessary to putty the walls at all? To answer this question, it should be understood that putty allows you to solve the following problems:

• Provides a uniform light surface. If you stick thin, for example, paper wallpaper on the cement plaster or concrete, then gray spots will appear under them;
• Levels the surface. Wallpaper cannot hide significant differences and irregularities in the base, therefore, if there are flaws, they must be eliminated with putty;
• Improves adhesion. If you are going to glue wallpaper on wood, OSB or concrete, then putty will improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the base;

• Allows you to remove old canvases without damaging the base. This property is relevant for drywall walls. If they are not puttied, then later you can tear off the old wallpaper only with a layer of cardboard.

From this we can conclude that it is possible to do without putty only if the walls are plastered with light plaster - gypsum or lime, and have a flat surface. In other cases, it is highly desirable to apply an additional leveling layer.

What putty to use

As you know, putty is divided into two types:

1. Home. Designed to eliminate large differences (up to 1 cm);
2. Finishing. Allows you to give the surface smoothness, applied in a layer up to 1 mm.

I must say right away that the finishing putty in our case is completely unnecessary. Firstly, it is not visible under them which surface is smooth or rough. And secondly, finishing putty will only worsen adhesion.

Therefore, the wallpaper should be glued on the starting putty or universal, and the finishing one is needed to prepare the surface for painting, since the paint does not hide defects, but more often, on the contrary, it reveals them.

Putty technology

The filling process can be divided into four stages:

Preparation of materials

First of all, let's look at what you need to putty the walls. So, you will need:

• White starter putty, gypsum mix is ​​best, as it is inexpensive and easy to work with;
• Acrylic universal primer (if the base is loose, a deep penetration primer should be used, if the surface, on the contrary, with poor adhesion, an adhesive primer should be used);

• Mesh-abrasive P80-P120;
• A set of spatulas;
• Paint roller with a cuvette;
• Clean plastic bucket;
• Electric drill and a special nozzle-mixer.

It is also desirable to have long rule to control the differences on the surface of the walls.

Foundation preparation

Before plastering the walls, it is necessary to prepare them as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Dirt cleaning. The surface must be cleaned of dust and dirt, if any. To do this, the walls can be vacuumed or wiped with a damp cloth.
	Padding: Prepare the primer - shake it up and pour it into a cuvette; Moisten the roller in the liquid, wring it out slightly and carefully treat the surface of the walls with it; Wait for the surface to dry and repeat the procedure.
	Joint reinforcement: If the walls are sheathed with plasterboard, it is necessary to cut chamfers from the even edges of the sheets; Then, a sickle mesh should be glued to all joints.

Now you can start patching.

Puttying

The putty technology is as follows:

Illustrations	Actions
	Putty preparation: Pour clean water room temperature into a clean plastic bucket; Fall asleep required amount dry mix. The manufacturer indicates the ratio of water and mixture on the package; Thoroughly mix the solution with a mixer. Do not prepare gypsum putty in in large numbers, since after 15-20 minutes it begins to set, respectively, it can no longer be used.
	Puttying seams: If the base is drywall, first of all you need to putty the caps of the self-tapping screws, and also fill the seams with putty. To do this, you can use a narrow spatula. Try to immediately level the putty; After the putty has dried, it must be cleaned with a spatula to make the surface smooth; Then remove the dust that appeared after stripping, and prime the surface with a roller.
	Wall puttying: Dial the composition on a wide spatula with a narrow spatula; Grasp the handle of the spatula, with the index and middle finger put the spatula on the canvas as shown in the photo; Run the spatula along the wall. The movement should be smooth and fast enough. At the same time, follow the pressure and angle of inclination so that the putty lays down in an even layer. Similarly, cover all walls with putty; To align internal corners, use the special angled spatula.

This completes the spatula. Many beginners are interested in how many layers of putty should be applied in order to properly prepare the surface? It all depends on the condition of the base and the putty itself. If, for example, the differences are a centimeter, and the composition can be applied with a layer no thicker than 7 mm, then, accordingly, two layers will be needed.

If the differences exceed 10 mm, then plaster should be used to level the walls.

Therefore, you need to inspect the walls in advance and apply a rule in order to know how many times they will have to putty.

Sanding and preparation for gluing

Now the final stage remains - grinding and preparing for wallpapering. This work is done in the following way:

Illustrations	Actions
	Grinding. Use a special mesh and grater to remove all existing irregularities (trowel marks or other defects); Upon reaching desired result clean the surface of dust.
	Padding. Before gluing wallpaper after putty, be sure to prime the surface of the walls.

Often, beginners doubt whether it is necessary to prime the putty before wallpapering. The primer will improve adhesion, ensure uniform absorption of the adhesive and somewhat reduce its consumption.

Therefore, it is highly desirable to apply a primer on putty walls. After they dry, you can start gluing wallpaper.

Conclusion

Now you know how to choose a putty and properly prepare the walls for wallpapering. If there are any difficulties in the process of work, write comments, and I will be happy to help you.

October 16, 2017

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