Do-it-yourself belt sander for wood. How to make a wood sander with your own hands

To fully process the product with your own hands, power tools are required. But it happens that the tool alone is not enough, and you have to resort to the help of more serious electrical equipment. For example, in order to fully process the surface of dimensional products, equipment such as a belt sander is used.

This type of machine is very expensive if it is produced in a specialized factory. For this reason, most craftsmen make a belt sander with their own hands.

What is a belt sander made of?

The most used material for the production of parts is wood. For processing a wooden product, different equipment is used. In order to bring the wooden product as accurately as possible, a home-made belt sander is used, in which the abrasive belt is at the forefront.

Mechanisms of the grinding machine for metal:

1. Horizontal and vertical arrangement of the abrasive belt. It is pulled on both drums, which make rotational movements.
2. Two rotating drums: master and slave. It is possible to adjust the speed of the rotating element.
3. The mechanism is installed on a desktop surface, which can be wooden or metal. On a metal base, it is possible to sharpen more complex parts.
4. The power of the electric motor, on the basis of which the unit operates, must have at least 2.8 kW, while ensuring the speed of the tape at least 20 meters per second.
5. As a rule, a special hood is installed to remove dust and dirt during operation.

There is a pattern between the length of the machine and the length of the part that is processed on it: the larger the part, the longer the processing mechanism should be.

Purpose

Most often, this unit is used to carry out the last stage of working with the product. Grinding machines for metal with a belt work with wood and metal structures. The woodworking device is capable of perfectly leveling the roughness on the surface to be treated, shaving off all unnecessary burrs, performing internal grinding of products, and making the product extremely even and smooth.

Belt grinders for metal successfully process metals of any category: flat, round non-ferrous metals, as well as square-shaped workpieces, including simple alloyed metals. Such machines can process any complex products in a short time: round timber, large diameter pipes.

Also, belt grinding machines are intended for:

• Final grinding of the part before the procedure for applying a layer of paint or varnish.
• Heat treatment of irregularities on the product.
• Complex surface treatment of the bar.

How to make a desktop work surface with your own hands?

The best option is to choose a thick canvas for high-quality coverage. The larger the size of the desktop, the more difficult the product can be made. The functionality of the workbench directly depends on the convenience of processing a metal or wooden surface on it.

Mechanisms for manufacturing a three-dimensional frame:

1. Make the necessary markings.
2. Drill three bolt holes.
3. Using three bolts, fix the surface for work.

How to choose and install a motor for a belt grinder grinder?

Most often, a conventional engine from a washing machine can act as a machine motor. But if it is difficult to find and install one, then you can purchase any motor that makes at least 1500 rpm. In the case of fixing the motor on the frame, you need to ensure that it is installed as firmly as possible.

On the machine, as a rule, two drums are installed: a master and a slave. Chipboard material is best suited for manufacturing.

Drum manufacturing process:

• You should get a blank made from a chipboard sheet with a volume of at least 200 by 200 mm.
• Turn the workpiece so that its diameter is at least 200 mm.
• Install this machined workpiece on the rotating shaft of the machine motor. Its purpose is to set the tape in motion.
• Install the second torque (driven) on the axle and secure with single bearings. At the same time, a small slope must be made on the side of the drum part. This allows the belt to lightly touch the surface of the workpiece.

Particular attention should be paid to the manufacture of the drum - it should be several centimeters larger than the driven element. This ensures the stability of the engine and protects it from overheating and the possibility of breaking the tensioned belt.

How to make a belt sander with your own hands

For the production of belts for grinding machines, several high-quality sandpaper strips are most often taken. They must be cut into several long pieces (at least 200 mm long) and glued together. The best raw material for glued fabric is tarpaulin.

All work related to sizing must be accompanied by a highly effective lubricating layer, which will make the element strong and as durable as possible. Many leading experts advise high-quality fitting of both rinks with rubber. Bicycle and moped cameras are best suited for this role.

The optimal thickness of rubber bonding is at least 30 mm. After all the necessary procedures for assembling the unit, you can safely proceed to the processing of wood or metal products.

The assembly process of the machine to make it as high quality as possible

Thus, it is quite possible to make a modern grinding machine with your own hands, but taking into account the fact that the bars must be made of birch or pine. The most significant elements for high-quality processing of products are glued together with PVA glue, and the installation of the unit is not complete without screws of different sizes.

In this case, gluing can be two simple pieces of chipboard boards, which are connected by loops. It is best to fasten with M6 bolts.

The bottom of the machine rests on block blocks, which are first adjusted to the dimensions of the machine, then attaching small pieces of rubber to maintain the balance of the unit during operation. From the front, the grinding unit is fixed with euro screws for making furniture to the mill and for processing the product.

Features of the design idea of ​​a homemade unit

The belt grinding machine can be made in different ways in terms of design: the table can be movable and stationary, and the belt can be loose and tightly stretched. Equipment with several wide belts is in a special position. In such a situation, the desktop is made in the form of a caterpillar. And also in some models, the presence of a desktop surface is not provided at all.

Most often, such a mechanism is used for sharpening or turning:

1. knives.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Chisel.
4. Axes.
5. Secateurs.
6. Other piercing and cutting objects.

Rules for Safe and Efficient Work

No desktop grinding unit is provided without a special device for dust extraction during the working process. Any professional and home-made machine works smoothly only if the necessary safety measures are observed.

When turned on, the machine starts to generate at least 1500 rpm, and at this speed, there is a high probability of small particles getting inside the unit, which then enter the human body through the respiratory apparatus.

Video: homemade belt sander.

Harmful effect

A disc-belt grinder has a very negative effect on a person’s hearing apparatus, and during long-term work, you can generally become deaf or blind if you work without special glasses. It is unacceptable to approach the operating unit with wet hands and in an open work coat.

As practice shows, the consequences can be more than sad for the worker, including a high probability of damage to a wooden or metal product. After a long period of use, the grinding material should be replaced with a new one in order to avoid causing tool defects.

No home craftsman can do without hand power tools. But sometimes there comes a time when such a tool is not enough, and the help of serious equipment is required. So, for example, a belt grinder is capable of processing the surfaces of large parts. Industrial units are too expensive, so many craftsmen make grinders with their own hands.

The design of the belt sander

The tree is widely used for the manufacture of all kinds of products and parts. In order to process a wooden blank properly, various equipment is used. Careful high-precision processing of wood is carried out on belt grinders, which, as a working body have an abrasive belt.

The design of the grinding unit provides:

1. Abrasive belt that can be placed horizontally or vertically. It is mounted on a frame and placed between the rotating drums.
2. Leading and driven drums. The rotation of the drive drum occurs due to an electric motor that transmits torque through a belt drive. The speed of rotation of the leading element, and hence the speed of the belt, can be adjusted by specially set surface treatment modes.
3. The equipment table can be wooden or metal. On a metal base, more complex workpieces can be sharpened.
4. The electric motor should have a power of about 2.8 kW and be able to provide the tape with a normal speed of 20 meters per second.
5. A special assembly hood must be installed so that during the technological process it is possible to remove the dust generated during operation.

The length of the machine and its working tool depends on product length that will be processed on it. It is much more convenient to work with workpieces that are shorter than the work surface.

What are grinding machines for?

As a rule, the equipment is used for finishing mechanical processing of products at the final stages of production. Belt sanders can work with both wood and metal.

woodworking equipment capable final leveling of surfaces, remove roughness and irregularities in the form of elevations or depressions, peel off burrs, grind curves, do internal grinding, achieve even and smooth surfaces of the product.

Machine tools for metal work with non-ferrous metals in the form of flat, round and quadrangular blanks and with plain and alloyed steel. They are able to grind large-diameter pipes and round timber rationally and in a short time.

In addition, belt grinders intended:

• for grinding products before the procedure of paintwork;
• for processing bar and panel blanks, their side edges and ends;
• for processing flat surfaces;
• for grinding curved surfaces.

Manufacturing instructions

Having studied the design of the equipment, you should decide what its main elements will be made of.

What to make a bed from?

It is best to make a desktop from thick iron. The ideal dimensions of the canvas are 500x180x20 mm. However, the larger the dimensions of the bed, the more options for various parts on it can be processed.

Large work surface it will be much more convenient and functional than a small bed. For its manufacture you will need:

1. Cut off one of the sides of the canvas prepared for the table using a metal milling machine.
2. Make markup.
3. Drill three holes in the end of the cut workpiece.
4. Secure the work platform to the bed using three bolts.

Selection and installation of the engine for the machine

The engine for the unit can be a motor from a washing machine. If this is not available, then you can choose a motor whose rated power will be up to 3 kW, and the intensity of work - about 1500 rpm. The power unit for the grinding machine should be tightly and securely fixed to the frame.

Leading and driven drums

You can make such elements for a grinding machine with your own hands from a material such as chipboard. For this you need:

1. Cut out blanks with dimensions of 200x200 mm from a chipboard sheet.
2. Assemble a package with a thickness of 240 mm from the obtained blanks.
3. Fold everything and grind it to the optimum diameter of 200 mm.
4. Attach the drive drum to the motor shaft. It will set the tape in motion.
5. Mount the driven drum around the machine axle on bearings. In this case, there must be a special bevel on the side of the drum. This will help ensure the tape has a soft touch on the work surface.

When making drums, it is worth considering that diameter of their central part should be a couple of millimeters larger than the outer diameter. This is necessary to ensure the stable operation of the equipment, since the flexible tape will be in the middle of the drum.

DIY sanding belt

As a sanding belt, you can take several emery strips. They will need to be cut into pieces 200 mm long and glued. The ideal option for the basis for the canvas would be a tarpaulin.

Having assembled the structure from all the selected elements, you can safely proceed to the processing of wood.

Grinding machine from a manual grinder

Taking a manual grinder as a basis, the rest of the equipment parts can be made from chipboard, pine and birch bars with your own hands. The U-shaped stop is glued with PVA glue, the remaining elements of the unit are connected with screws.

The base of the machine can serve as hinged two pieces of chipboard. For greater strength, the hinges are fastened with M6 bolts.

The grinder is installed to the base with the help of bars, which are pre-adjusted to the shape of the body and glued with pieces of rubber on top.

In front, the grinder is attached to a suitable size with furniture confirmers. With their help, the grinding plane can be set in the desired position.

Behind the base, the machine is attached with a bar and two screws. In order for the thrust pad to be in line with the grinding plane, pieces of soft rubber can be glued under the body.

In the horizontal part of the U-shaped stop, a groove can be made to move a small carriage, which may come in handy i for sharpening electric planer knives.

After fixing and adjusting the grinder, the machine can begin to operate.

Having studied the options for making a belt grinder with your own hands, and strictly following the instructions, you can acquire multifunctional equipment. Such equipment will be able not only to grind wood products, but also to sharpen any cutting tools.

I have been making knives for several years now and always use 2.5 x 60 cm and 10 x 90 cm belt grinders in my business. For a long time I wanted to get another one with a 5 cm tape, as it would make my work easier. Since such a purchase would be an invoice, I decided to make it myself.

Problems in the design of the future machine:
Three limitations had to be overcome. Firstly, there was no tape 10 cm wide at the place, it could only be ordered online. For me, this option seemed not very acceptable, since there is no greater disappointment than to find that the tape has worn out and needs to be replaced, and you have to wait a week or two for a new one to arrive. Secondly, there was a problem with the rollers. I searched but couldn't find any suitable 10cm tapes. Thirdly, the motor. A belt sander needs a fairly powerful electric motor, and I didn't want to overspend on this project. The best option for me was to use a used motor.

Solutions to design problems:
The first tape problem found a simple solution. Since the 20 x 90 cm belt was freely available in hardware stores at a reasonable price, I could make two 10 cm from it. This imposed restrictions on the size of my machine, but due to cost effectiveness, this option was the best. The second problem was solved using a lathe. To do this, I watched a video on the Internet, and realized that I could make the videos I needed myself. With the motor, the task was more difficult. I had several electric motors in the garage, but for some reason I had to abandon them. Finally, I settled on an old tile cutter that had a 6 amp electric motor installed. At that time, I realized that this power may not be enough. But since the work was at the experimental stage, I decided to first achieve a working version of the machine, and the motor can be replaced later. In fact, for a small amount of work, the motor is suitable. But if you are going to be doing more intensive sanding on it, I would recommend a 12 amp minimum.

Tools and materials

Instruments:

• Angle grinder with cutting discs.
• Drill and drills.
• Wrenches for 11, 12 and 19.
• Lathe.
• Vice.

Materials:

• Electric motor (6A minimum, or 12A recommended).
• Various bearings.
• Nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers of various sizes.
• Metal corner.
• Sanding belt 20 cm.
• 10 cm pulleys.
• Powerful spring.
• Steel bar 4 x 20 cm.
• Timber 2.5 x 10 x 10 cm made of wood or MDF.

Electric motor for machine

I had a choice of several motors, but the electric motor that was on the tile cutter had a more suitable casing. To some extent, working on the machine was like an experiment, because I was not sure about the sufficient power of the motor. Therefore, I settled on a modular solution with a belt frame as a single element that can be removed and rearranged to a more powerful base. The speed of rotation of the motor suited me quite well, but I was worried that 6 A would give weak power. After a little testing, I saw that for simple work, this electric motor was suitable, but for more intensive work, you need to choose something more powerful. When designing your machine, pay attention to this point.

As I mentioned, the motor housing was very suitable, as it allowed the creation of a vertical machine that would be easy to move.

First you need to release it by removing the desktop, saw, protection, water tray, leaving only the electric motor. Another benefit of using this motor was the threaded core and nut to hold the saw in place, allowing the pulley to be mounted without the use of a key (what a key is, I'll explain later).

Since I had a pulley that was too wide, I decided to use the large pressure washers that usually secure the saw, turning one upside down so that there is a wedge-shaped groove between them. I found that the space between them was too narrow, and to widen it, I put a lock washer between them. The advantage in this method is that the pressure washers have a flat edge, which is fixed with a flat edge for simultaneous rotation with the core.

Belt

The drive belt I used was 7 x 500mm. A standard 12mm can be used, but a thinner one is more flexible and will put less strain on the motor. He does not need to rotate the grinding wheel.

Belt sander device

The device is simple. An electric motor drives a belt that rotates a 10 x 5 cm "master" pulley that drives the abrasive belt. Another pulley 8 x 5 cm is located 40 cm above the main one and 15 cm behind it and is mounted on a bearing. The third 8 x 5 cm pulley rotates on a lever and acts as a tension roller, holding the abrasive belt tight. On the other side, the lever is attached to the frame by a spring.

Determining the drive type

The main issue was to rotate the main pulley directly with an electric motor or with the help of an additional pulley and a drive belt. First of all, I chose a belt drive because I wanted to be able to change the engine to a more powerful one, however, there was another reason. When you do intensive metalworking, there is a risk of running into some problems. Belt drive in such cases will slip, while direct drive will create big problems. With a belt, the device will be more secure.

Frame fabrication and installation

It is important to mention that using a metal angle as a frame can have both advantages and disadvantages. The obvious advantage is that it is convenient to assemble it, like a designer in childhood. But the main drawback is that it is strong only in two directions, but weak when twisting. So, you need to take into account this weakness and calculate what torque can be transmitted from the pulleys to the frame, and compensate for it with the help of additional jumpers.

Cutting:
You can use a hacksaw to cut the corner, but an angle grinder with a cutting disc will make the job faster. After cutting off all the elements, I would recommend sanding all their sharp edges so as not to cut yourself during assembly. Holes can be drilled with a conventional drill and cutting fluid.

Main roller

The main roller is the most important part of the project, as it receives torque from the motor and transmits it to the belt. I used an old bushing to mount it, but I recommend using a bearing instead. The bushings do their job, but they constantly overheat and require regular lubrication. Moreover, they can scatter dirty grease, which is annoying during operation.

Shaft:
There are threads on the sides of the shaft with different directions so that the fixing bolts do not unscrew during rotation. If you cut off the threaded side, as I did, leave the one that goes counterclockwise, otherwise you will have to make a lock bolt (I will describe how to do it later) and a cotter pin. The main pulley will be put on the cut edge.

Pulley:
Continuing the theme of reuse, I found an old pulley from another project. Unfortunately, I prepared it for the threaded pin that it was supposed to hold on, but, in fact, this is not a problem. In this pulley, I made a rectangular cutout. Then, using an angle grinder, I cut a groove into the end of the shaft. By placing the key in the hole formed by the groove of the shaft and the rectangular cutout of the pulley, I securely fixed them relative to each other.

Production of rollers for a grinding machine

I made the rollers out of several pieces of hardwood 2.5 cm thick. But you can use MDF, plywood or other material. When laying the layers, it is necessary to make sure that the fibers are perpendicular, this will give the rollers additional strength and the layers will not split.

It is necessary to make three rollers: the main roller, the upper roller and the tension roller. The main roller is made from two 13 x 13 cm pieces 2.5 cm thick. The top and idler rollers are made from two pieces of wood measuring 10 x 10 cm.

Process:
Start by gluing pairs of 13 cm and 10 cm pieces of wood, clamping them with clamps. After the glue has dried, cut the corners with a miter saw, then find the center of each piece. Fix them in a lathe and machine them until they measure 5 x 10 cm and 5 x 8 cm.

Top and tension rollers:
Next, you need to install the bearings in rollers measuring 5 x 8 cm. Select a core or spade drill, and drill a recess in the center to the width of the bearing. The inner ring of the bearing must rotate freely, so a hole must be drilled through the roller through the inner ring of the bearing. This will allow the bolt to pass through with a minimum opening.

Main video:
This detail is done a little differently. There are no bearings on it, however, if the shaft is less than 5 cm out of the roller, it will be necessary to grind the roller in width. Measure the diameter of the shaft and drill the same hole in the center of the roller. Try to insert the shaft, it must hold tight, otherwise the roller will shake.

Bolting rollers

Next, you should fasten the two halves of the rollers with bolts, you should not rely only on glue. Remember that the bolt heads must be sunk into the wood as the roller rotates in close proximity to the frame.

Tension lever

The lever is made of a metal bar measuring 10 x 30 x 200 mm with rounded edges. It needs to drill fairly large holes, so I recommend using a drilling machine and a lot of lubricant for this. You will need 4 holes in total. The first is at the pivot point. It is not in the center of the bar, but 8 cm from its edge. The second hole will be on the edge closest to the pivot point. It will serve to attach the spring. Two additional holes must be drilled at the opposite end, approximately 5 cm apart. They should be a little wider in diameter as they will be used for the setup I'll cover next.

When all the holes are made, you can fix the shoulder on the vertical corner between the top roller and the base. The end where the spring will be attached is directed towards the main roller. It should rotate freely, so I recommend using two nuts for fastening, not completely tightening the main one, and using the second one as a lock nut.

Installing rollers

The top roller is fixed statically and must be clearly in the same plane as the idler roller and the main roller. You can do everything by eye, but I recommend checking everything well with a level. To align the roller, you can add a washer, or, if it is not enough, a bolt. They are inserted between the frame and the roller.

It is not necessary to fully install the tension roller. Still need to make a stabilizing device.

Tape stabilization

Wear on the rollers or an uneven surface can cause the abrasive belt to gradually come off the rollers during operation. The stabilizer is a device on the idler that allows it to be angled to keep the abrasive belt centered. Its arrangement is much simpler than it looks and consists of a fixing bolt, a little free play on the idler pulley and an adjusting bolt.

Drilling holes in bolts:
For this purpose, I made a device, in the form of a wedge-shaped cut in the board, which will help to hold the bolt in place at the time of drilling. You can do it manually, but I don't recommend it.

fixing bolt

A fixing bolt is a simple bolt with a hole drilled in it, and which is installed on the bar through a wide hole that is closer to the pivot point of the lever. Since it is located between the lever and the roller, its head must be ground off so that the roller does not cling to it. The bolt must be fixed as shown in the figure.

Bolt holding roller

It needs to be loosened a little so that the tension roller has a little play. But so that it does not unwind, you need to make a castellated nut. To do this, you just need to make cuts on the edges of a regular nut so that it looks like a crown. There will be two drilled holes in the bolt itself: one for the adjusting bolt, and it will be aligned with the hole of the fixing bolt, and the other for fixing the castle nut with the cotter pin.

Bolt for setting:
Once the idler is in place, the adjusting bolt can be installed, which will pass through the holes of the fixing bolt and the bolt on which the idler rotates. The system works by tightening the adjusting bolt, causing the idler wheel's axis of rotation to shift its angle of rotation outward, thus causing the belt to move closer to the mechanism. A spring at the other end of the arm adjusts the tension in the opposite direction. I recommend securing the adjusting bolt with a locknut, as vibrations can loosen it.

Note: It is possible to add a spring on the back of the idler, but I have not found any reason why this is worth doing. A slight advantage is that in this way the roller will have less play. But I will add that I did not do this, and I did not have any problems.

Completion of work on the manufacture of the machine with your own hands

When everything is done, you need to check all the bolts again, and make sure that the stabilization mechanism is assembled correctly. Then you need to turn on the device for the first time, which can be scary. It's like driving a car where the steering wheel and transmission don't work. I recommend turning the motor on and off for a very short time so that the machine does not spin at full speed.

In fact, the hardest part for me was the spring setting. If you pull too hard, the tape will not be able to rotate ... Too weak - and it is impossible to hold it, it flies, which in itself is dangerous.

Ready!

That's all. You should end up with a decent medium power belt grinder that can be converted to a more powerful one if desired.

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Thank you for your attention.

Useful item in the workshop. For those who work with wood, such a device is simply necessary, as it is universal, which greatly simplifies the work. But, unfortunately, such machines have a rather high price and therefore have to be invented. This article will discuss a functional, and most importantly convenient, grinding machine, with detailed drawings and photos. Each item is considered in detail, and if something is not clear, you can always watch the video.

Introduction

There are many options for different grinders, but the most important thing is that it be easy to use. This design option meets many requirements, and captivates with its simplicity, but at the same time functionality. A distinctive feature of this design is that a conventional drill is used as a driving element, and its installation takes less than one minute, and most importantly, it is easy to remove it from the machine and use it for your own purposes.

This article will describe all the step-by-step steps in creating a universal grinding machine, but before you start work, you need to be well prepared and calculate the full amount of work.

Preparation for work

You can’t do without a tool, so you need to prepare a high-quality and serviceable hand and power tool, namely:

• Sawing machine (or from a jigsaw;
• Milling machine;
• Grinding machine or ;
• Drill or (and, of course,);
• Electric jigsaw with;
• Drilling machine;
• . such as "Cyclone".
• Various hand tools (tape measure, pencil, screwdriver, etc.).

Before starting work, it is important that all the material is at hand, then the work will go quickly and smoothly. Thus, to assemble a stationary grinder, we need the following material:

• sheet (size 25 * 36.5 cm);
• fasteners (bolts, nuts; screws, etc.); sealed bearings;
• furniture fittings;
• metal stand;
• sanding belt.

In order to make any workpiece from, you need to know the basic characteristics of the material. In the article "" some characteristics were given (thickness dependence, number of layers, deviations, thickness differences, etc.). An additional table may be useful:

Plywood brand	Bakelized plywood	Aviation plywood	Construction plywood
Sheet thickness*	5-18	1-12
Water resistance	high	Above average	FSF - increased FC - medium
Density, kg/m3	About 1,000	500-650	Depending on the type of wood: softwood plywood density– 660 hardwood plywood density - 800
Tensile strength, MPa	Along the fibers - 80	Shirts - 65-80	—

Main structural elements

The manufactured machine has a fairly simple design, and consists of the following elements:

1. Base;
2. Tabletop for placing blanks;
3. Two side covers of the case;
4. One leading roller and two slaves;
5. Tape adjustment mechanism.

Manufacturing of a grinding machine

Side covers

Before cutting, you need to mark up. To do this, you need to determine the size and shape of the workpiece itself. Below is a detailed drawing of the part.

An example of marking the side cover of the grinding machine is shown in the photo below.

For more convenient cutting of internal parts and critical elements, you can drill holes with an electric jigsaw and sawing machine. For accurate and high-quality work, it is better to use a substrate. Please note that the cutout for the movable roller is needed on only one workpiece.

The main parts of the part requiring holes are shown in the photo.

After, only on one of the blanks, we cut out a smaller hole for the bracket. It is better to work with a jigsaw, while it is better to fix the structure with clamps.

The second part of the cover is not needed yet, since the main work will be carried out with one part of the wall. After that, you can start gluing the base for the bearings. For gluing the squares, ordinary PVA glue, wood glue or any other glue intended for wood is used. The size of wooden squares is 5 * 5 centimeters.

After that, the glued elements must be fastened with clamps or left under pressure for a while. It is important to ensure reliable contact when gluing blanks.

It's time to cut the hole for the bearing. Best of all, a milling cutter will cope with this task. After cutting, excess elements can be removed with a knife or other cutting tool.

As a result, if all the work was done correctly, the following design will be obtained.

We press the bearings on both sides, as shown in the photographs. These bearings will be designed for the drive shaft.

After that, with the help of a hexagon, the fittings are installed in a pre-prepared hole.

As in the case of bearings, furniture fittings are installed on both sides.

The next step to do is to install the shelves. The largest shelf, consists of a board and has a size of 32.5 * 6.5 cm and has a thickness of 1 cm. Installed with four self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo.

The second shelf measures 22.8*6.5 cm, with the same thickness. Attaches with three screws.

And the last shelf has dimensions of 10.2 * 65 cm, 1 cm thick and is attached to two self-tapping screws.

After that, both blanks are finished, and now you can proceed to the next step - assembling the mechanism for adjusting the position of the sanding belt.

Assembling the Tape Adjustment Mechanism

We begin the assembly of the main moving element of a stationary grinding machine. First, you need to glue two bars together. The larger beam is 6.8 * 4 cm in size, the smaller one is 3.2 * 3.8 cm in size. The smaller beam should be exactly in the center of the larger one.

While the movable element dries, you can start gluing the retainer. To do this, you need to glue two cubes 2 * 2 cm in size and 1.8 cm thick on both sides of the beam 7.8 * 2 cm. It should turn out as in the photo.

Next, we drill a hole on the side, but not through, we also install the fittings. A handle will be inserted into it to adjust the tape. After all the steps have been completed, the part is ready.

Then, you need to make a hole for the drive nut in the latch, this is done in two stages. The first one involves drilling out the seat with a feather drill or a Forstner drill.

If all the steps are performed correctly, you will get the same blank as shown in the picture below.

Everything is ready, and you can start pressing the nut. It is important to install the nut evenly so that it "sits" in a special hole and is "flush". It should turn out like this:

The blanks are completed, you just need to place them on the wall of the future grinding machine. But before that, you need to drill a hole in the side. It will help to install the adjustment knob for the position of the sanding belt.

We install the latch, with a movable element, using two self-tapping screws. It is important that the moving part is placed on the correct side. The futorka should be directed towards the hole. Here is what should happen in the end.

Two blanks will be enough. We drill a through hole in the middle and insert a bolt into it. After that, we install the handles in the side sleeve of the movable element and in the drive nut of the latch. As a result, the following construction will turn out.

Production of rollers

Rollers are movable, and the most important element of the entire system. Therefore, it is important to make them as high quality as possible. As in the case of handles, we make them using a crown drill. It is necessary to cut out six parts of the driven rollers.

As well as other parts of a stationary grinder, they can be glued with PVA glue or wood glue. To compress the blanks when gluing, it is better to use screws and nuts with washers. The photo below shows how to do it.

After gluing, you can remove the screws and prepare the rollers for further work. In the driven rollers, you need to install two bearings, in the drive roller you need to install two drive nuts. The procedure was carried out before, so it makes no sense to describe it again. As a result, you should get the following result:

Everything is installed, which means that you can tighten one bolt with a nut on all rollers of the grinding machine. It is important to tighten the nuts so that the bearing has free play. Now you can proceed to the penultimate stage.

Installing rollers

First, you need to install the drive roller in the cover where the bearing is located. So, as shown in the photo.

The last shelf is attached on top and our machine takes on a similar shape. The time has come for the final stage.

The final stage

The first thing to do is to attach the second cover of the machine to the hinges.

Then put the base of the machine on the screws, for greater stability.

After that, the sanding belt is installed and fixed.

Then the tabletop is made. It is important that the tape has free play, and should not cling.

And at the end, a drill stand is installed.

Conclusion

Outcome

Our handmade grinder is ready! If you follow all the instructions described above, you will get a real friend and helper who will rightfully take his rightful place in the workshop.

Dimensions

Here is a table with the overall dimensions of our homemade tool:

The dimensions of the walls and adjacent elements:

Dimensions of bracket elements:

Table top dimensions: Vkontakte

One of the final operations in the manufacture of products is grinding. To perform it, you can use sandpaper, a grinder or a grinding machine. Most often, grinding is required in the manufacture of furniture. The most productive and accurate will be tape.

It can be used for finishing not only wooden parts, but also metal parts, using the appropriate abrasive material. You can get rid of depressions and burrs, remove old coatings, get a smooth surface, or calibrate a part.

Types of grinding equipment

For the final processing of wooden products, there are several types of grinding equipment.

Varieties depending on the type of grinding surface:

• Disk. The part is processed on the desktop perpendicular (or at an angle) to which there is an emery disk associated with the engine. Designed for cleaning parts of a cylindrical, conical or spherical shape. Productive and compact machine.
• Drum. The working body of the equipment, as the name implies, is a drum. To increase productivity or combine rough and fine grinding, two drums with different sizes of abrasive grains are mounted. It is intended for processing of long flat preparations (boards, laths).
• Tape. The grinding part is a belt with an abrasive coating. The machine is characterized by high productivity and relatively low cost.

Belt sander

Types of machines depending on the type of workpiece:

• Cylindrical grinding. With their help, conical and cylindrical outer surfaces of workpieces are processed.
• Centerless. Designed to work with parts of great length or without a hole in the center.
• Internal grinding. Grind holes of various shapes. Most in demand in the industry.
• Surface grinding. Allow to process ends and periphery of a circle. Can be equipped with tables that rotate or move longitudinally.

The most in demand not only in production, but also in private households are belt surface grinding machines.

The design of the tape machine

The wood sander consists of an engine that drives the drums with the help of a V-belt.

A tape with abrasive particles is pulled onto the drums, which is connected at the ends. It can be in both vertical and horizontal position, as well as at an angle.

For the convenience of processing parts on many machines, a table is mounted perpendicular to the working body. To adjust the processing mode of workpieces, you can change the speed of the drums.

For the convenience of working on a belt grinder, you need to take into account the difference in the length of the belt and the size of the workpiece. The tape should be longer than the surface of the workpiece. In this case, the grinding will be more efficient and of high quality.

The nuances of the execution of the tape machine may vary. The desktop can be movable or rigidly fixed. And also the desktop can be made in the form of a caterpillar, additionally performing the function of supplying material.

Or the complete absence of the desktop and the presence of a free tape, which can be in any position. The width of the abrasive belt can be different.

Any surface grinding belt machine is equipped with a device for aspiration of dust that occurs during grinding.

The parameters of the grinding equipment are the speed of the belt, the force of pressing the part to the belt, the tension of the belt. If the belt speed is too high and the pressure is too low, some parts of the workpiece may remain unfinished.

If the part is pressed too hard and the tape feed speed is low, on the contrary, the part can be damaged. The tension of the belt is produced due to the movement of the driven drum.

The working machine itself may differ in grain size. It is selected depending on the required smoothness of the part and the material of the workpiece. It is the hardness of the workpiece that primarily affects the nature of the abrasive surface.

The quality of gluing the tape affects the work. It must be properly connected, be intact and without damage, so that during the grinding process there is no disruption to the operation of the equipment.

When pulling the tape on the drum, you need to make sure that the seam during operation does not cling to the material being processed, but slides over it. That is, the connection of the tape should lie in the direction of movement, and not against.

Do-it-yourself grinder

Self-made grinding machine

At home, professional equipment does not pay off soon due to irregular use. You can make a belt grinder with your own hands to save money on the purchase of such a tool.

A homemade surface grinder has the main structural components - an engine, a frame and drums.

How to make a grinding machine? For the bed, it is better to choose a metal sheet, the minimum dimensions of which are 500x180x20 mm. The larger the dimensions of the working surface, the more convenient and more different parts can be processed. It is important to process the side of the frame, to which the platform with the electric motor will be attached, very evenly.

A guillotine can help with this. The platform for the engine should be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions of 180x160x10 mm. But be sure to check whether its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the engine. The sheet is attached to the frame with several bolts.

A motor from a washing machine can act as an engine for a homemade belt sander.

washing machine engine

It is worth choosing an electric motor with a power of up to 3 kW and a rotation speed of about 1500 rpm. It is important to fix the unit on the site firmly and securely.

In order for the do-it-yourself woodworking machine to work efficiently, the belt speed should be about 20 m / s. To ensure this mode, the diameter of the drums should be 200 mm.

With these parameters, there is no need to use a reducer. The driving drum is connected directly to the motor shaft, while the driven drum rotates freely on the shaft in bearings.

To save money, you can use homemade products as drums:

• Make squares 20x20 cm from chipboard sheets.
• Make a 24 cm thick stack of sawn squares.
• From the package folded in this way, cut out a disk with a diameter of 20 cm. When manufacturing drums, it must be borne in mind that in the section, the diameter of the outer part should be 2–3 mm less than the diameter of the central part. This will ensure that the belt is centered on the drum.

The width of the sanding belt must be 200 mm according to the width of the drums.

You need to choose the appropriate width of the sanding belt

For its manufacture, you can take emery strips, carefully gluing them together. Tarpaulin can be a good base.

To prevent the belt from slipping during movement, it is recommended to cover the drums with rubber. For example, you can use cameras for a moped or bicycle. The desired height of the rubber layer should be 3 cm.

Having made a belt grinder, you can get in the kit not only equipment for grinding wooden blanks, but also a tool for high-quality sharpening of cutting metal objects.

Video: How to make a mini belt sander