Finishing putty on concrete. Putty for concrete floor

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Putty for concrete: 18 topical issues on varieties, composition and application technology

In this article, we have to figure out how to putty concrete walls, floors, floor slabs and other capital structures made of heavy concrete. We will find out what types of putties are on the market today, in what cases they are used and how they are applied correctly.

Foundation features

1. How are cast-in-situ concrete and panels different from other substrates? Why do we single them out as a separate class of surfaces for finishing?

A key feature of heavy concrete is low hygroscopicity (water absorption). Because of this property, it provides very limited adhesion to building mixtures, including plasters and fillers.

The fact is that the mechanism of their application implies the penetration of a binder (cement, gypsum, polymer resins) into the pores and irregularities of the surface on which the coating is applied. And in heavy concrete, the pore size is just minimal, so the adhesion of the mixture is unsatisfactory.

1. Is there a solution to the problem of poor adhesion of coatings to in-situ concrete?

Of course. In order to achieve maximum strength of the finish, you just need to maximize the surface area of ​​​​its contact with the base. Here are a couple of solutions to help us with this:

• Adhesive (or quartz) primers. They are a mixture of polymer binder and fine river sand. After the binder has set, the surface of the concrete structure becomes rough to the touch;

The general name for primers of this type is concrete-contact.

• Stucco fiberglass mesh pre-glued to concrete.

The putty layer on the fiberglass mesh must be at least 2-3 mm thick in order to completely hide its texture.

Vapor permeability

1. Are there any requirements for the vapor permeability of putty?

I'll start from afar.

It is believed that the vapor permeability of any building envelope (read - external walls) should increase from the inside out.

Right is right, left is wrong.

The fact is that excess moisture leaves the house or apartment along with the ventilation system right through the walls. Humidity inside the house is always higher than outside. The natural process of life activity also leads to an increase in humidity (the humidity of the exhaled air is greater than that of the inhaled), and any economic activity (remember washing the dishes and the floor, washing and preparing lunch or dinner).

If the outer layer of the finish is less permeable to water vapor than the inner layer, the following occurs:

• Steam is filtered through the inner layers of the walls faster than through the outer ones;
• This leads to an increase in the moisture content of the wall material;
• As a result of moisture, the heat-insulating ability of building envelopes decreases;
• During the cold season, the dew point (the point where the temperature and humidity are sufficient for moisture to condense) moves inside the house;

• The wall starts to freeze. Following the condensate on the walls, its eternal companion, the fungus, quickly appears.

Moreover, the freezing of water in the pores of concrete leads to its accelerated destruction. As we remember from the school physics course, when water passes into a solid state of aggregation, it increases in volume and literally breaks the capital structures of the building.

That is why for interior work, if possible, finishing materials with moderate vapor permeability are chosen, and for exterior work with high vapor permeability.

By pasting the walls of the room with thick vinyl wallpaper or using another type of finish with low vapor permeability, you will completely eliminate the filtering of water vapor through the walls. Often this helps to get rid of the freezing of the walls without their insulation.

Thick vinyl wallpaper is a reliable barrier to water vapor.

Varieties

1. What putty can be used on concrete?

Putties, like plasters, are classified primarily by the type of binder. The following binders are fully compatible with concrete:

• Portland cement;

• Gypsum;
• Acrylic resins;

• Epoxy resins.

Two component epoxy putty. In a small jar - hardener.

Surfaces and materials

Walls outside

1. How to putty concrete walls outside the house?

Cement facade putties. They combine high mechanical strength with moisture resistance. As a separating layer between the monolithic or panel wall and the finish, a layer of adhesive primer is applied (for example, Osnovit T-55).

When choosing an adhesive primer, pay special attention to its purpose. For example, the well-known Betokontakt from Knauf is designed to prepare slightly absorbent bases for gypsum plaster and putty, which implies only internal work.

In practice, taking into account SNiP 23-02-2003, which regulates the thermal protection of buildings, the exterior finish of concrete walls is usually combined with their insulation. The facade structure in this case looks like this:

• Monolithic reinforced concrete wall or reinforced concrete panel;
• A layer of insulation (glued mineral wool or expanded polystyrene), fixed on cement glue and dish-shaped dowels;
• A layer of cement putty with fiberglass reinforcement;

• Facade paint or decorative plaster.

Walls from the inside

1. Is it possible to putty concrete walls without plaster during the interior decoration of a house or apartment?

Why not? If the size of irregularities (this includes blockages, differences between panels, traces of formwork) does not exceed 2-5 millimeters, defects are removed by puttying.

With irregularities up to 50 mm, the walls are pre-plastered according to the beacons. If the differences or blockages exceed 50 mm, it would be more reasonable to use drywall to level the galvanized profile crate.

1. What types of putties are used for interior wall decoration?

In dry rooms (living rooms, bedrooms, corridors) - plaster. The low price of gypsum putty is combined in a very pleasant way with the ease of its application and processing.

It is possible to putty the walls after preliminary priming of the base with adhesive primer. In this case, for example, the already mentioned Betokontakt from Knauf is suitable.

It is more convenient to use acrylic fillers to level small defects. They are sold completely ready to work, have excellent adhesive qualities and moderate water resistance.

In wet rooms (bathroom, kitchen, toilet) it is customary to use cement building mixtures. However, this rule is not absolute. Gypsum putty can also be used, but with a couple of caveats:

• The room must be ventilated. Efficient ventilation will eliminate constantly high levels of humidity;

• The finish must be waterproof.

I will give as an example the decoration of the combined bathroom in my attic. To level the walls, ABS Saten gypsum putty was used in it. The painting was made with acrylic-latex "rubber" paint Rezel + from the Sevastopol company Accent.

The finish has been in operation for about three years and has completely retained its appearance.

In the photo - the interior of the attic bathroom. The walls are finished with gypsum putty.

Along with waterproof paint, vinyl wallpaper can be used to finish gypsum putty. In damp rooms, they are glued not to ordinary wallpaper glue, but to waterproof PVA. It is applied both to the wallpaper strip and to the wall.

Ceiling

1. What putty to use for the ceiling?

In terms of finishing, it is no different from the inner surface of the walls. Same requirements, same solutions:

• For minor repairs (sealing cracks at the seams between panels or other minor cosmetic defects), it is more convenient to use acrylic putty;

It retains its white color after setting and drying, so the white ceiling does not have to be painted after repair.

• To putty the entire surface of the ceiling, a gypsum finishing or universal mixture is used. Slabs or monolithic ceilings are pre-primed with concrete contact.

Floor

1. How to putty a concrete floor on potholes and cracks?

For this purpose, cement putty for outdoor concrete work is ideal or ... an ordinary cement-sand mortar, prepared in a ratio of 1:2 - 1:3.

Cracks are preliminarily expanded (expanded to 15-20 mm with a chisel with a hammer or a light pick), potholes deepen. All irregularities are cleaned of dust and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer.

Before sealing, cracks need to be widened, potholes need to be deepened.

1. How to level the floor surface for finishing (linoleum, carpet, laminate, etc.)?

Here, too, cement (more precisely, polymer-cement) building mixtures are used. However, they are called somewhat differently - bulk self-leveling floors. After cleaning from dirt and priming with penetrating soil, the mixture mixed with water is evenly distributed over the floor surface and, due to its high fluidity, forms a flat horizontal surface.

1. What putty should be used for the basic leveling of the floor under the self-leveling polymer floor?

The polymer floor is a finishing coating - durable and wear-resistant.

The most obvious option is the cement mortar we already know. However, a putty for a concrete floor, made on the same binder as the future self-leveling floor - epoxy or polyurethane, will give a much better result in terms of the strength of the finish coating.

Both types of binders have excellent adhesion to concrete; the adhesion between the sealing of defects and the finish coating will also be as reliable as possible.

Windowsill

1. How can a concrete window sill be leveled for painting with minimal cost?

Minor irregularities are eliminated with facade acrylic putty after preliminary priming with a penetrating primer. An adhesive primer is not needed here: acrylic adheres perfectly to concrete after it has been impregnated with a primer based on the same acrylic resins.

If the surface of the window sill has received serious damage, a facade cement putty with fiberglass reinforcement is used for leveling. The edges are reinforced with a galvanized corner profile. To achieve maximum strength, the surface is ironized - it is rubbed with cement diluted to the consistency of liquid sour cream without the addition of sand.

Consumption

1. How to calculate the consumption of putty per 1m2 for concrete?

It depends on two factors:

• Type of putty;
• The thickness of the finishing layer.

Here are the consumption rates for some types of putties with a layer of 1 millimeter.

Technology

1. How to prepare a concrete surface for priming and puttying?

Instructions - common for floors, ceilings, walls and other surfaces:

• Layers of paint, peeling putty and plaster are removed from the base;
• It is cleared of stains of grease and oils;
• The surface is thoroughly dusted.

Now - a little more about each item.

Alkyd, oil and nitro paints are removed with a steel spatula after softening with a universal remover. The wash is applied in small areas 10 minutes before stripping.

Instead of a wash, you can use a building one: the surface warms up to 250-300C, after which the softened paint is removed with the same spatula.

Avoid heating one area for a long time. Concrete can crack due to temperature changes.

Water-dispersion paints are removed only by grinding. For cleaning, you can use soft a metal brush nozzle for a drill or grinder.

Lime and cement plaster are removed with a hard spatula after two to three times abundant moisture. You can wet the base with a wide soft brush or spray to care for flowers.

To degrease concrete, use gasoline, acetone, solvent or white spirit. The oil stain is abundantly wetted with a solvent and rubbed off with a rag. If necessary, degreasing is repeated 2-3 times.

The surface can be dedusted with an industrial vacuum cleaner or, in its absence, with a conventional sweeping brush. In the latter case, the remaining dust will be glued to the base during priming.

Do not use a household vacuum cleaner for dust removal if you intend to use it for its intended purpose in the future. Concrete dust has excellent abrasive qualities: after passing through the vacuum cleaner filter and getting to the motor shaft and impeller, it causes accelerated wear.

1. How to prime a concrete base?

The penetrating primer is applied with a long-haired roller or brush. Processing is repeated twice without a pause for drying: this ensures the maximum depth of penetration of the primer.

The adhesive primer is applied after thorough mixing throughout the package. The tool is the same - a roller or a brush. Usually the base is primed in one layer; after drying the soil, it should be evenly rough to the touch.

1. How to fix a reinforcing glass mesh or fiberglass on a wall or ceiling?

The material is glued to thick PVA glue. It can be applied with a brush directly through the cells of the grid pressed against the surface. It is a little more difficult with fiberglass: in its case, glue is applied both to the base and to the reinforcing material, after which it is pressed against the surface and smoothed out.

The strips of reinforcing material must overlap each other by at least 50 mm.

1. How to putty a concrete wall or ceiling with your own hands?

Minor defects embroidered and treated with a penetrating primer are filled with putty using a spatula 10-12 cm wide; then the surface is leveled with a wide spatula (30-35 cm).

It is customary to putty the entire surface with a wide spatula, on which the building mixture is applied over its entire width with a narrower (10-12 cm) tool.

The main tool for puttying is a wide spatula.

Putty is applied with sliding movements with moderate pressure. When puttying in several layers, the direction of strokes in each next layer changes to perpendicular.

It is easier to apply gypsum putty in two or three as thin layers as possible (“on a tear”). Each of them, with a thickness of about 0.5 mm, dries no more than 1.5-2 hours.

It is advisable to perform all work in bright side lighting. It will emphasize the slightest bumps and grooves from the spatula, allowing you to immediately correct the defect.

It is useful to know a few more subtleties:

• Add the dry mixture to the water not by eye, but with the help of a measure of dishes and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Too dry putty will fall off the wall, too liquid - slide down it;

• Seized, but not completely dried cement putty can be rubbed with a wooden or polyurethane float, removing the strips from the spatula. On a plaster finish, they will have to be removed by grinding;

• When mixing cement putty, water and dry mix can be added to the dishes in any order. When preparing a composition based on gypsum, water is first poured into the container, and only then the dry mixture is added. Otherwise, lumps of gypsum will remain at the bottom, which will be almost impossible to break when kneading;

• Both the mixing container and the spatulas should be washed immediately after the next portion of the putty is used up. Lumps of the seized mixture, falling under the spatula during puttying, will leave deep furrows in the finish;

• For kneading, it is better to use not a spatula, but a construction mixer or a drill with a whisk clamped into the cartridge;
• Cement putty after mixing usually lives no more than an hour, gypsum - from half an hour to 45 minutes. Therefore, the size of a single portion should not exceed 3-4 liters when puttying the surface and 1 liter when repairing minor defects.

1. How to remove putty from a concrete wall during the next repair?

If the finish does not flake or have serious irregularities, it does not need to be cleaned completely. It is enough to clean up areas with cracks and potholes.

If the thickness of the putty layer does not exceed 3-5 millimeters, it is removed after soaking with water. I have already described the technology above: the surface is abundantly wetted 2-3 times and cleaned with a hard spatula.

Aqueous starch solution softens cement putty more effectively. It is applied with a brush or spray gun.

What to do if a strong putty is laid in a layer of such a large thickness that it is impossible to soak it throughout the entire volume?

Arm yourself with a chisel with a hammer or a puncher and proceed to drastic measures. The chisel is set at an angle of 45 degrees to the surface plane; putty is chipped off in strips, after which the remaining irregularities are cleaned in the manner described above - with a spatula after soaking.

Conclusion

So, now we know which putties are used on concrete and how to use them correctly. The video in this article will help you learn more about puttying walls and ceilings. Feel free to share your own decorating experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

January 2, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Puttying concrete walls has now established itself as the most common way to level surfaces, in particular: walls, floors and ceilings made of concrete. Concrete is a very specific material.

Its main feature is a low degree of hygroscopicity. Concrete almost does not absorb moisture, which prevents its adhesion with other mortars.

Plaster or putty penetrates into the pores and cracks on the surface to be finished, thereby providing adhesion, but in concrete there are very few such irregularities, so it is quite difficult to achieve adhesion.

Putty properties

The more elastic the putty, the better it penetrates into the pores of the base

For puttying concrete surfaces, it is necessary to use specially designed building mixtures. must have the following properties:

1. Elasticity. The material must penetrate into all pores of the concrete surface. The better the elastic performance, the easier it is to work with such a solution.
2. Thixotropy is the ability of a putty to thin out when applied and increase viscosity when it dries. It should be noted that when kneading the mixture will seem slightly liquid.
3. Frost resistance. Since putty is often used outdoors, it must be frost-resistant.

Concrete fillers must set quickly, form a very durable layer, and not shrink so that the surface does not crack due to the load, and cracks and other defects do not form in the future.

The waterproofing properties of the mixture play an important role when working with concrete and make it possible not to make a separate layer of waterproofing.

Types of putties

Cement mixtures are less elastic than gypsum

As a rule, when working with concrete, the following types of putties are used:

1. Cement. This is the most popular type of mixture in question. Its basis is cement, most often brand M-400 or M-500. The positive side is good water resistance. The negative aspects include the lack of elasticity and, as a result, the appearance of cracks after some time due to shrinkage. This concrete putty is used for finishing walls outside the building, rooms with high humidity and working with concrete floors.
2. . The basis of such material is gypsum. Due to the gypsum mixture, natural circulation of moisture occurs. The positive features include good thermal insulation, fire resistance, environmental friendliness. Fragility can be noted as a disadvantage. This mixture is used for interior decoration. It is not recommended to use this type of putty in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, shower room, swimming pool).
3. . Acrylic is the base. This is a universal putty, it is suitable for both exterior and interior work. Due to the good appearance of the finished surface, the acrylic mixture is often used for finishing ceilings without post-treatment.

To increase the adhesive properties of the working surface, it is recommended to treat the plane with a primer before applying the putty. In our case, when working with concrete, it is better to use concrete contact. However, when choosing a primer, you should pay attention to what kind of work: internal or external, it is intended.

Technical characteristics of putties

Before buying a building material, you must study its all technical characteristics.

Water consumption, color, viability, drying time of putty on concrete depends on the grades of the mixture itself.

The most popular for working with concrete floors are the brands of the following manufacturers:

Putty application technology

Move the grater with the mixture from the bottom up

It is necessary to putty concrete walls, ceilings and floors in several stages. First of all, you need to prepare the work surface, remove the old coating (peeled paint, plaster, putty), carefully clean and degrease oil stains. Cracks in the plane, if necessary, should be expanded.

If it is necessary to repair any defects, we use cement mortar for this and wait for it to dry completely. After that, using a construction vacuum cleaner, we remove dust and dirt.

After processing the concrete surface, carry out priming. It is recommended to apply two coats of primer, each coat must dry. It is convenient to apply the primer with a long-haired roller or a wide brush. To simplify the application of liquid, you can use a spray gun.

Now you can proceed to the process of mixing the solution. How to make putty? We take a container for mixing (bucket, deep basin), pour water. Usually a proportion of 5 liters of water per 25 kg of putty (1: 5) is taken.

The finished solution is applied by spraying

For stirring without lumps, use an electric drill with a nozzle. We lower the mixer into water and begin to stir, gradually adding the mixture. The resulting solution must be used within 3 hours after mixing.

The finished solution is applied by throwing it on a plane and further distributing it with a spatula. To make the surface more durable, you can use a reinforcing mesh or fiberglass. After the first layer has dried, a second layer should be applied. In this case, the direction of each subsequent layer changes to perpendicular to the previous one.

Finally putty on concrete dries out in about a day. At the final stage, we rub the dried, but not completely dried surface with sandpaper, using a grinder or a special grater. For more information about wall putty, see this video:

All work is recommended to be carried out in bright light. This makes it possible to see any irregularities and marks left by the spatula and remove defects in time. Only with the observance of the technologies for working with putties can an ideal surface be achieved. Also, most importantly, with great responsibility to approach the choice of the material itself, not to miss a single stage in preparing the surface and distributing the putty itself.

Updated: 06.09.2019

Creating a smooth, durable floor is an important stage in the repair work. To eliminate irregularities on concrete bases, various building mixtures and compositions are used, including putties.

The concrete floor itself has high strength, but in the presence of minor defects (chips, cracks and crevices) and poorly puttied slab joints, it can be destroyed, which will entail repairs and significant financial costs, especially when it comes to public buildings.

Additional strengthening of the concrete base will also be required in the case when cheap materials were used in the construction. Treated floors have a number of advantages:

• high wear resistance;
• resistance to erosion;
• resistance to abrasion and mechanical damage, exposure to chemicals and moisture (including leaks);
• longer operating period.

Putty mixtures carefully and reliably level the floor, providing easier further installation of building and decorative materials.

Putty mixes for concrete

Putty materials are basic and finishing. But there are also intermediate universal options suitable for all operations, they are much more economical and have low consumption.

According to the component composition, mixtures of the following types are distinguished:

• cement;
• plaster;
• calcareous;
• oil;
• adhesive;
• varnish;
• polymer or acrylic.

Putty basic STARATELI 5 kg

Often, manufacturers further enrich the putty with polyester or polyurethane additives. Such materials have minimal shrinkage and high waterproofing properties.

According to the form of release, the mixture is:

• dry, diluted with water in the indicated proportions;
• pasty - ready-to-use formulations.

Depending on the method of application, putty can be a liquid or thick consistency. The first type is typical for self-leveling compounds used for the treatment of concrete floors. Such mixtures under their own weight are effortlessly evenly distributed over the entire surface, characterizing the technique of continuous puttying.

Gypsum mixes

Gypsum-based putty mixtures are the least popular option for leveling the surface of concrete floors. The advantages of such material can be safely attributed:

• no shrinkage;
• low cost.

The gypsum composition creates a perfectly flat surface from the first layer, dries quickly and can be tinted with a color of any color (artistic gouache can be used as a budget option), but it has one significant drawback - the material is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.

Cement putties

Cement-based putty mixtures successfully combine an affordable price, a consistently high quality coating and moisture-resistant properties. But the material also has a number of disadvantages, including:

• noticeable shrinkage after complete drying;
• the difficulty of leveling the mixture on the surface and the need for certain skills in working with cement compositions.

Special component mixtures make the finished coating resistant to temperature extremes and allow the use of such putties in rooms with extremely low and high humidity, since strength and durability are maintained throughout the entire service life.

Acrylic mixes

One of the most convenient forms - quickly hardens and creates a smooth surface. The multi-component system is not subject to shrinkage and is not afraid of water.

The composition of the polymer putty for concrete floors, in addition to water, includes sand, marble chips, cement, and synthetic additives. This putty is plastic, has good waterproofing properties and adhesion to the treated surface, is waterproof, elastic, which makes it an excellent material for preparing the surface for self-leveling and heated floors. But its use is advisable on surfaces with a small number of deep cracks and grooves.

Epoxy mixes for concrete floors

If it is required to level and strengthen a concrete base with a damaged structure (large cracks, embroidered seams and traces of reinforcement removal), it will be most effective to use epoxy putty mixtures that tighten the concrete and increase its strength and durability.

The advantages of such two-component systems, consisting of a base and a hardener, are:

• high-quality filling of cracks, cracks, joints;
• elimination of voids formed in the places of replacement of pipes, communications, etc.;
• strengthening difficult areas and tightening structural damage;
• the possibility of creating a durable and wear-resistant continuous coating that does not require further processing;
• high adhesive properties;
• the minimum percentage of detachment of the dried putty layer from the base;
• resistance to moisture, chemicals, as well as microbes, mold and mildew.

Epoxy mix is ​​a finishing material ideal for smoothing out all the depressions and irregularities in the flooring.

Waterproofing putty mixture

A feature of the mixture with increased moisture-resistant properties is the possibility of using it as an independent coating, which will be beneficial with a limited budget for repair work. The composition of the putty includes urethane components, dry base mix, hardener, targeted additives and dispersion emulsions.

Most often, waterproofing putty is used when carrying out repairs in bathrooms, steam rooms and showers.

The main advantage of the material is the absence of the need to wait for the complete drying of the base and the ability to work on a wet layer.

Putty selection criteria

It is very important to choose the right building mixture, taking into account the properties of the surface to be treated and the purpose of the room. It is important to pay attention to the following properties of the putty mixture:

• adhesive index - for smooth surfaces there are special solutions;
• type of base (concrete, aerated concrete);
• moisture resistance, since the putty layer must reliably protect the concrete base from moisture;
• vapor permeability (the ability of the material to remove excess moisture).

Type of putty	Purpose	pros	Minuses
Cement	For high humidity and outdoor areas	Moisture resistant, cost-effective	Significant shrinkage, the possibility of cracking over time
Gypsum	For rooms with low humidity	Forms a smooth surface, does not shrink, hardens in 2-3 hours, maximum layer 4 mm	Not moisture resistant, the solution thickens in 1.5-2 hours
Polymer	For living quarters and rooms with normal humidity	Lightweight and easy to use, hardens quickly. The finish is smooth and glossy. Ideal for top coat	Expensive

Important! Pastes and mixtures for concrete bases are not suitable for aerated concrete and vice versa. Because they contain various component additives suitable for a specific structure. When choosing a mixture, you need to remember that its quality will determine how evenly and smoothly the finishing materials will lie (parquet, laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles).

Step 1. Preparing the work surface

The room in which the work will be carried out must be prepared in advance. It is advisable to remove the old floor covering, embroider deep cracks and crevices with a drill and clean with a construction vacuum cleaner.

After that, seal with cement mortar (cement: sand: water: bitumen = 1: 3: 1: 0.5) and wait for the surface to dry completely. Instead of bitumen, you can use PVA glue.

It is very important to remove all stains from the floor:

• dirt;
• rust;
• fungus;
• mold.

Usually they are easily washed off with warm soapy water, but if necessary, specialized products can be used.

Step 2. Priming the surface

Before priming, the floor should be cleaned again of debris or swept. The primer must be selected based on the characteristics of the room, its humidity and purpose.

To apply the composition, you will need the following materials:

• roller or brush;
• special tray.

The primer is applied in two layers, each of which is thoroughly dried. A high-quality composition will seal pores and small cracks, facilitating the next step.

Important! If the base is smooth, then it is preferable to take a primer with a quartz filler - it will provide a stronger adhesion of putty to concrete due to the rough surface obtained after priming.

Step 3. Solution preparation

Putty can be purchased ready-made, or you can mix the composition yourself. To do this, you need a drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer, a suitable container and dry mixes. It is very important to follow the dilution ratios indicated on the package.

There is no fundamental difference between the coating obtained from thick and liquid plaster, but there is a difference in applying the composition to the work surface.

Experts advise adding 10-15% more water than the manufacturer recommends. The optimal ratio of dry mixture and water is 1:5, the minimum is 1:3.

Sometimes you can add sifted chalk, crushed sawdust, PVA glue to the building mixture on your own.

The sawdust must first be soaked for 12-14 hours, and the whole mixture should be stirred twice with a mixer. For puttying bathrooms, drying oil is added to the composition - this will make the final coating even more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

Keep in mind that the mortar thickens after 3-4 hours and becomes unusable, losing up to 20-25% of its properties, so you should not make a lot of mortar at once.

Step 4. Applying the material to the surface

The process of puttying is quite long and painstaking. From the tools you will need the following:

• spatulas of various lengths;
• Master OK.

For convenience, you can purchase a rubber spatula or a tool with comfortable handles, be sure to take care of personal protective equipment and gloves. Putty is applied in 2-3 layers, each with a thickness of not more than 4-5 mm. You should not try to eliminate all the irregularities by puttying - this process is carried out during the execution of the floor screed.

1. Spread small portions of the mixture on the floor or pour part of the composition, then quickly spread everything with a spatula over the surface. Try not to make the first layer too thick - there is a risk that the coating may crack.
2. If the processing area is large, you can use a reinforcing mesh with small cells - this will increase the strength of the coating at least twice. It should be slightly squeezed into the first layer of putty immediately after its application, without waiting for drying.
3. After the first layer has hardened (after about 12-16 hours), reapply the freshly prepared mixture.

The putty will dry completely after 24 hours. If there were deep cracks, then the process can be delayed for 2-3 days. It is important to dry, eliminating drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations.

Step 5. Eliminate bumps

After the final drying, large irregularities, protruding lumps of unmixed material, it is desirable to process with coarse grit sandpaper P120-150.

With sufficient skills, puttying can be done independently, without resorting to the services of specialists. The concrete floor is quite easy to level, and if all the recommendations are followed, the coating is of high quality and without defects.

Video - Putty for concrete floor

When wondering why decorative puttying of walls and ceilings is needed, one should delve into the process itself in detail. It does not matter whether you will do the work yourself or invite specialists - knowledge of the technology and our advice will help you get the highest quality finish.

Types of putty - from simple to complex

Depending on the condition of the surface, it is possible to apply one layer of putty or combine several. For example, for a flat wall with flaws within 1-2 mm, a layer of finishing putty will be enough, but a problematic surface with more serious defects will first have to be treated with a starting compound. But more about everything.

• Starting puttying of the base - this stage of work is carried out with a special starting material to eliminate large surface differences, hide strobes, holes, etc. This is a rough treatment of the walls, after which you can get a smooth but porous surface. The layer thickness can be quite large - up to 1.5 cm. The material can be applied in several layers, but with drying pauses. In order to prepare the base as qualitatively as possible, the entire surface of the wall is processed, while using a reinforcing mesh. Putty adheres much better to the base, "sheathed" with a grid, and in the future you will avoid cracks.
• Puttying the base on the lighthouses - this stage of work is similar to the starting puttying, however, the whole process is carried out with the participation of special lighthouses, which are a wooden, gypsum or metal lath. Beacons are installed in the vertical plane under the level, and in the horizontal they line up in one line. With the help of such devices, the process of leveling the walls is much easier and faster. However, puttying on lighthouses is not used so often, since this process is more expensive, and the quality of the surfaces is practically the same, of course, if the work is done by professionals.
• Finishing puttying of the base - at this stage putties are used, which differ from the starting ones in a finer grain fraction. The composition is applied over the starting putty after it has dried and additionally processed. After grinding, a smooth surface is obtained, without cracks and pores, which in appearance resembles an egg shell.
  The material is applied in a rather thin layer (1-2 mm), repeating the previously prepared plane of the starting putty. Only with its help you can get a perfectly flat surface, so this stage of work cannot be excluded in order to save money. It is desirable that the base be white, in which case it will not shine through the light-colored wallpaper.
• Puttying cracks is one of the stages of preparing walls for putty. For this, gypsum mixtures are used, which are applied to the surface to be treated with a simple metal spatula. To make the process more efficient, the cracks are increased in depth and width in order to remove all cavities. Also, cracks should be treated with a primer that has the property of deep penetration in order to strengthen the damaged surface and increase its adhesion to the putty. You can use a brush for this.
  You can start puttying only after the primer has completely dried. For these purposes, you can use alabaster or gypsum - they dry within half an hour. However, these materials are not flexible enough, so they are inconvenient to use. You can use modern materials, for example, satengypsum, which hardens longer, but has excellent elastic qualities.
  
• Mechanized wall putty is a separate type of putty, which differs in the process of applying solutions. In this case, special machines are used that spray plaster mixes under high pressure. The work is carried out very quickly, but a lot of equipment is required, so it is rational to use mechanized putty only on large areas.

Puttying concrete walls - the technology of applying the mortar to the base

Before proceeding with puttying, the wall surface should be carefully treated with a primer. Types of primers may vary depending on the base material and its purpose. One of the most important properties is the depth of penetration into the structure of the material, and the deeper, the better the coating will be.

The process of applying putty to the base is the same, regardless of its type. In fact, it is not difficult to putty walls, the most important thing in this case is the practice that can be obtained after processing several square meters. To do this, you will need several spatulas of different widths and a flat container, from which it will be convenient to collect putty. Be sure to purchase one that is easy to handle external and internal corners.

First you need to prepare the material if dry putty was purchased. Instructions for preparing the solution, as a rule, are located on the package itself. It is very important to act in full accordance with it and remember that the dry mixture is poured into the water, and not vice versa. You need to stir with a construction mixer or a conventional drill with a special nozzle. Part of the prepared putty is poured into a container, and the rest of the solution is covered with a lid so that it does not dry out.

A small spatula is needed in order to apply putty on a large one, it is also useful for processing hard-to-reach areas of the walls. When a large spatula is prepared, putty is applied to the wall. When leveling, you can lightly press the tool blade with your left hand.

The spatula is held at a certain angle to the surface, which can be adjusted to achieve the desired layer thickness - the larger the angle, the smaller the thickness.

After about a day, when the surface dries, they start grinding again. For it to be of high quality, this process must be carried out under good lighting (a spotlight on a rod or a powerful pendant lamp), which is directed at an angle to the wall. For convenience, the sanding belt is put on a special bar. After processing, there should be no defects on the surface (scratches, roughness, sagging, etc.). Ideally, if the wall resembles a white sheet of paper.

When is puttying with a reinforcing mesh used?

As a rule, putty with a reinforcing mesh is required in cases where there are too large differences on the surface of the walls. The use of sickle allows you to make the surface more durable and reliable, and it is also an excellent barrier to the formation of new cracks on painted surfaces (they may simply not be visible under the wallpaper). Cracks can form even on concrete foundations, for example, at the joints of slabs of panel houses, which will certainly manifest themselves over time.

At first glance, wallpapering seems simple, but in fact this process requires patience, and most importantly, the right approach. Everything should happen in several stages. First, the old coating is removed, then a rough finish is carried out, and finally, decoration is carried out. But some ignore the second stage of work, which is why the result is not entirely successful. Puttying the walls under the wallpaper is the most crucial moment, not only the final result, but also your self-esteem depends on it.

Choice of materials, tools

Putty has many obvious advantages. For example, it provides a perfectly smooth surface, smooths out the influx of plaster, eliminates small cracks and depressions. Any material that you would not use as a finish will ideally fall on a properly prepared wall.

Puttying tools

Before you start puttying the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands, you will need to decide on the materials. They are presented in a wide range, and differ not only in price, but also in composition. The most affordable are dry mixes, they must be diluted with water before use. Ready-to-use mixtures are considered expensive materials.

In the process of work, you can not do without the following tools for puttying walls:

• spatula (angular, straight 10-15 cm, 25-30 cm);
• drill with a plug-in mixer for mixing the putty mixture;
• sandpaper for grouting;
• brush / roller for priming;
• net capacity of 15-25 liters.

Features of working with drywall

Strongly curved walls are usually sheathed with drywall, which allows not only to level the surface, but also to create decorative figures. Sheets of dry gypsum plaster have a smooth, even surface, but they are not monolithic, they are produced in certain sizes. Plastering plasterboard walls is mandatory, because after its installation, joints and attachment points appear. If we talk about mixtures suitable for him, then any (cement, polymer, gypsum) will do. The main thing is to consider in which room the repair is being done. For example, the first option is suitable for the bathroom.

Plastering plasterboard walls

The technology of puttying walls for wallpaper implies their initial treatment with a primer. To do this, you will need a roller, and brushes can be used for hard-to-reach places. After complete drying, proceed to leveling the surface with plaster, starting putty. The applied layer must also dry, after which it is covered with a primer.

If you are using a dry mix, then it will need to be prepared according to the instructions. First, water and powder are mixed with a spatula, when the composition becomes thicker, a drill with a mixer is used. Its readiness is determined by consistency. In order for the result to completely satisfy you, it is more expedient to use the best spatulas for puttying the walls, that is, made from quality materials.

The starting mixture is applied with a large spatula, in medium portions and evenly distributed over the entire surface. The tool must be held at an angle of 25-30 degrees, movements are made diagonally. In order to avoid the formation of bumps, transitions, each layer is overlapped to each other. To ensure perfectly even corners, a special angle-type spatula is used, but before that the putty is applied with a small tool. The first layer of the “start” should dry well, after which you can proceed to the “finish”. At this stage of puttying the walls under the wallpaper, a fine-grained mixture is used. It is applied twice in layers of 1-2 mm. After complete drying, the surface is polished.

What about concrete walls?

Preparing walls for puttying in a new building is not much different from working with drywall. In this case, if there are large chips, wide cracks, potholes, they must be repaired using cement mortar. If deviations from the vertical plane are significant, then a layer of leveling plaster must be applied. For this, beacons made of T-shaped metal profiles are exposed. The plaster mixture should be applied to a pre-primed surface, leveling is carried out using a building rule.

Puttying concrete walls

If you moved into an apartment where the walls were painted, you will have to work hard to clean the surface. You should not try to sand the surface or simply prime the paint, because the wallpaper will not last long on such walls. It is better to use a building hair dryer, a grinder, a grinder with a metal brush or a special wash.

The process of applying putty

After the plaster and primer are completely dry, you can begin to putty the concrete walls. The first step is the application of coarse-grained putty, the thickness of its layer is at least 5 mm. The mixture is applied with a wide spatula with sweeping hand movements. After it dries, the evenness of the wall is checked by the rule, the existing errors are corrected by finishing puttying. The mixture used for this is characterized by smaller particles. At the end, the walls are sanded and treated with a primer, after which wallpaper can be glued on them.

paneligid.ru

Concrete wall putty guide

The level of quality of further repairs depends on how correctly the puttying of concrete walls is done.

Sectional diagram.

Before puttying concrete walls, it is necessary to prepare them, for this they produce a primer. This will be a great way to protect the base from fungus and mold. In addition to antiseptic characteristics, the primer is able to give the base excellent adhesive properties, which will help the finishing materials to be firmly fixed on the surface. Priming will eliminate unwanted roughness. If the base has a significant deviation from the vertical plane, then it is recommended to apply leveling plaster before puttying, which is done in 1 layer. Initially, it is recommended to set the beacons using T-shaped metal profiles, after that it is necessary to apply a plaster solution to the treated surface of the walls, leveling it with the rule.

Applying putty mixture

Do-it-yourself wall putty tools.

After the plaster is completely dry, you can begin to putty. However, initially the base must be treated with a primer, which will help to significantly improve the adhesion of the surface and putty. For this, a deep penetration primer must be applied. The material is applied with a wide brush or roller. Puttying must first be done with a starting mixture.

This material is used when the surface has significant irregularities, and the composition is applied in a layer, the thickness of which should be more than 5 mm. The preparation of the mixture should be carried out in a special container, the volume of which should be equal to 25 liters.

Putty on the surface should be applied with a wide spatula, it is recommended to hold the tool at an acute angle with respect to the base. After the mixture has dried, the walls must be checked for evenness, for this a rule is used. In the presence of shortcomings, they can be eliminated with the help of finishing putty. The composition for finishing leveling has a fine-grained structure, which is important in the process of subsequent grinding, which will be necessary in preparation for finishing work using decorative materials.

Grinding should be performed after the surface has dried using sandpaper, which has a fine abrasive layer. After that, the base should be again treated with a primer, which will help to bind fine dust and prepare the base for further work. It is worth remembering that priming not only prepares the base, leveling it, but also relieves the surface of dirt, dust, mold, fungal formations, as well as minor errors.

See also: How to plaster aerated concrete

To putty concrete walls, the master will need the following tools and materials:

• spatula (450 mm, 40 mm, 100 mm);
• beacons;
• plaster;
• rule;
• primer;
• brush or roller;
• putty;
• container for the preparation of mixtures;
• construction mixer;
• rule;
• nylon mesh (cell size 2x2);
• sandpaper.

Features of puttying

Stages of decorative putty.

With significant irregularities, you should use not only the starting putty, but also a nylon mesh that will reinforce the layer. It is necessary to start puttying using a 100 mm spatula, using it with your left hand, you should collect a pre-prepared mixture from the container, applying it to a wide (450 mm) spatula, which must be held with your right hand. A thin layer of putty should be applied to the surface of the base, the strip should be equal to the width of the mesh, the mixture should be applied from floor to ceiling. The mesh is subsequently glued to this area, and then a layer of the mixture is applied to cover the reinforced mesh.

The next sheet of mesh should overlap the previous one by about 3-5 cm. This method should be applicable until the entire surface of the walls in the room is covered.

After a couple of days, when the putty is completely dry, you can proceed to grinding. After that, a finishing putty can be applied. This layer should have a thickness in the range of 1 to 2 mm. Finishing putty in hard-to-reach places should be applied with a 40 mm spatula. After drying, the surface should be sanded. Puttyed walls should be covered with a layer of primer, using a velor roller; during the work, the mixture must be rubbed well so that it does not leave streaks. These works completely prepare the base for further work, for example, for wallpapering.

Important conditions

Putty scheme.

Before proceeding with leveling with putty, the surface to be treated must not only be cleaned, but also free from cracks, if any. To do this, they must be expanded with a spatula, and the resulting surface should be primed with a roller or brush. After the soil has dried, gypsum plaster should be thrown onto the wall, for this you can use a trowel or spatula.

Alignment is done with a spatula, while you can create any required layer thickness, as a rule, it is a couple of centimeters, while taking into account the fact that reinforcement will be performed.

http://youtu.be/l2LdIzkpevE

The putty should be prepared according to the instructions, but one should not forget that it is first necessary to place the dry composition in the container, and only then add water, which will help avoid the formation of lumps.

Page 2

• Reinforcement
• Manufacturing
• Instruments
• Mounting
• Calculation
• Repair

1pobetonu.ru

How to putty concrete walls

Apartment renovation » Articles » How to putty concrete walls

Cosmetic or overhaul of the premises necessarily involves decorative wall decoration. This stage of work should be preceded by the preparation of a concrete surface, the quality of which depends on the quality, complexity of applying further coating and its operation.

Puttying a concrete wall is necessary for several reasons.1. Firstly, it allows you to level the walls, preparing them for high-quality application of subsequent finishing.

2. Secondly, putty significantly reduces the absorbency of concrete.

Puttying is an optional procedure if you plan to cover concrete walls with ceramic tiles. In addition to everything, putty is an expensive repair step even if you do it yourself, and if it is not necessary, then you can save a lot. Puttying concrete walls is essential before painting or wallpapering.

Do-it-yourself puttying of concrete walls by both a novice and a professional master is carried out in several stages. But before proceeding directly to the putty, you should prepare the wall by cleaning it of dust, dirt, fungus or mold (if there are any, unfortunately), from old wallpaper and old peeling putty that needs to be cleaned off. After that, the walls are primed with a special mortar for better adhesion of the mortar and concrete.

The choice of dry mix for putty depends on the degree of unevenness of the concrete wall and the decorative finish. To do this work with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools: a container for mixing the mixture, a spatula, a drill with a mixer nozzle and a nylon mesh. For puttying concrete walls, you will need to purchase a starter and a finish mixture. The calculation of the amount and mixing of the solution is carried out strictly according to the instructions for a specific mixture, since their composition may vary slightly for each manufacturer. The most famous quality mixtures that are presented on our market are produced by Triora, Polimin, Knauf, Caparol, Feidal, Sniezka, Ceresit.

The recommendations and advice of experts, which will be outlined below, will help you learn how to properly putty concrete walls on your own. The main thing is to stock up on patience and pressure, and do everything carefully and slowly.

So, the concrete surface dried after priming is already ready for applying the starting putty. Uneven walls that require the application of a thick layer of the mixture must be pasted over with sickle. Smooth walls (or almost so) are glued only at the joints of the panels and at the corners. The next step is mixing the mixture. We do everything according to the instructions, bringing the mixture to the consistency of soft butter with a construction mixer.

Coarse-grained starting putty is applied using two spatulas - wide (in the right hand) and narrow (in the left). It is convenient to pick up putty with a narrow spatula and apply it to a wide one, and then apply it to the wall from top to bottom and from left to right. The pressing force on the spatula and the angle of inclination to the wall allow you to adjust the putty layer, achieving a more uniform application. The dried surface of the wall must be cleaned with a grater platform.

After grouting, the wall should be primed again, preparing it for applying the finishing putty. If this is not done, then the finishing putty may subsequently fall behind along with the wallpaper. The best primer is ST-17.

Fine-grained finishing elastic putty is applied similarly to the starting one, then it is worth waiting for the surface of the concrete wall to dry completely and clean it with a fine abrasive mesh. Our concrete wall is perfectly smooth (the photo shows the difference between the wall before and after puttying), and it is ready for subsequent decorative finishing.

novahata.kiev.ua

How to putty the walls with your own hands

High-quality preparation of walls for various finishing works is to obtain a flat, smooth surface. To do this, it is necessary to correctly perform priming and puttying. Puttying is an easy task. The main thing here is to follow the procedure and be able to properly handle the construction tool. How to properly putty the walls on our own without resorting to the help of specialists, we will consider in this article.

To putty the walls yourself, prepare a minimum set of tools. What tools can you not do without?

1. A drill equipped with a special nozzle - a mixer. As a rule, putty is sold in the form of a dry mix. Water is added to this mixture in a certain proportion. Only with a special mixer can you perfectly mix the putty mixture. The output should be a homogeneous putty without lumps.

2. A set of spatulas. Be sure to choose a spatula of different sizes. In work, you will have to use both large spatulas (40-50 cm) and very small ones. Indeed, in problematic hard-to-reach places, it will not be possible to putty the wall with a large spatula with high quality. Just for this, small spatulas are used.

3. Rollers and brushes for priming walls. The priming step is undesirable to skip. After priming, the wall is covered with the thinnest film. This not only further increases its strength, but also provides excellent adhesion of the treated wall to any facing materials (adhesion).

4. Rule. It will be necessary in case of uneven walls when it is necessary to apply putty in a thick layer. For leveling thick layers of putty, it is convenient to use a long metal rule.

5. Spirit or laser level. Often the surface of the wall is very uneven. Before starting the starting puttying, check beacons are installed, using a spirit or laser level for checking.

6. Sandpaper. If you want to get a beautiful surface that is pleasant to look at, use fine skins for rubbing. For example, grouting with 240 sandpaper will allow you to get the perfect result. Use the smallest sandpaper only when performing finishing putty. And at the stage of the initial initial putty, it is correct to rub the wall with a coarse coarse sandpaper.

7. Manual skinner. Sanding will be much more convenient if you use a manual skinner. This is a tool on the handle of which special clamps are installed to secure the skin.

8. And, of course, you can’t do without a container in which putty is mixed.

A list of tools that you may need when puttying walls. Photo - srbu.ru

What putty is better to putty walls and how to choose it

Classification of putty by composition: gypsum, polymer (acrylic) and cement.

Consider their disadvantages and advantages.

1. Gypsum putties are attractive at an inexpensive price, they lend themselves well to leveling, do not shrink. The only drawback is the poor resistance to moisture. Only this limits the scope of their use.

2. Cement putties are distinguished by excellent moisture resistance, but have a significant drawback - a high degree of shrinkage.

3. And, finally, polymer putties. Undoubted advantages: excellent moisture resistance, do not shrink at all. With the help of polymer putty, a high quality of the treated wall surfaces is obtained. The only downside is the high price.

According to the purpose, putties can be divided into starting (leveling), decorative (finishing) and universal.

1. Characteristics of leveling (starting) mixtures: high strength, excellent adhesion, large granularity. Recommended: for leveling walls after plastering. Application thickness: 3 -20 mm.

2. For a high-quality decorative finish, it is desirable to apply finishing putties to the surface to be treated. With their help, you can get a perfectly smooth, even surface, hiding small flaws. The strength of the finishing putty is less than the starting one, its processing does not cause difficulties. It is applied in a small layer up to 4 mm.

3. Universal putties combine the properties of decorative and leveling mixtures. They cost more, although they are slightly inferior in properties to finishing and starting coatings. We recommend using it when processing walls without major flaws.

The modern market offers dry and ready-to-use putties. Attracts a small cost of dry putty and the possibility of its long-term storage.

Ready-made putties are convenient to use. You do not have to use a mixer to prepare a homogeneous putty mixture. This saves time and virtually no dust. But ready-made putties are much more expensive than dry ones. Please note: such putties give a lot of shrinkage. If a layer less than 2 mm thick is applied, ready-made putties cannot be used. They also do not boast of a long shelf life. It is significantly less than dry building mixes.

Dry in, bags and ready to use, in a bucket of putty.

Preparing the wall surface for plastering

The main thing is to make sure that the surface of the walls is absolutely clean. Be sure to remove stains of grease, paint or soot. Of course, there should be no loose layers of plaster, residues of scale, wax or formwork parts. Do not even start puttying the frozen ceiling and walls. This is strongly discouraged.

Before plastering, coat the walls with a primer. This will ensure good adhesion (connection) of the putty mortar to the walls. The surface is primed with a special roller. Try to evenly apply the primer solution, avoiding gaps. One layer is enough.

There are such types of putty: finishing, lighthouse, starting. Let's take a closer look at the properties and scope.

Starting surface putty

Putty is performed using a coarse starting material. Finding him is easy. When buying, it is called that - starting putty. To remove large wall differences, hide strobes, holes, it is convenient to use such putty. The thickness of the layer of such a putty applied at a time can reach 1.5 cm. Allow the previous layers to dry completely. Only then proceed to apply the next layer of putty.

In order to obtain the highest possible quality of the puttied surfaces, a special paint grid is installed on the wall, and putty is distributed evenly over the entire surface on it. At the same time, the walls are completely solid. The advantage of this technology is that when using a paint grid, putty fits perfectly on the surface of the walls. And the surface itself becomes more durable and even. At the same time, the coarser the paint mesh, the smoother the treated surface of the wall.

Starting wall putty.

Lighthouse wall putty

The materials do not differ from the starting putty. The only difference is that beacons are used. Lighthouse - a wooden, gypsum or metal rail, which is set strictly vertically, checking the verticality with a level. Lighthouses are attached to the walls with the help of some kind of gypsum mixture; it dries quickly, after which you can proceed directly to puttying. Similarly, alignment occurs along horizontal lines. In this case, a rule will come in handy for leveling the putty layer. By following these recommendations, after carrying out the starting work, a flat surface is obtained. To make sure the quality of the work, you can check the level. This type of finish is rarely used. Reason: its cost is much higher than the starting putty, although visually they are almost the same.

Wall putty on lighthouses. Photo - vipconstruction.kiev.ua

Finishing wall putty

After completing the starting or lighthouse putty, proceed with the finishing putty. It is done with finishing putty mixtures. It is this putty that gives the wall surfaces perfect smoothness. The smallest cracks or pores are eliminated. It is important that the finishing putty completely coincides in plane with the previously prepared surface, so it must be applied in a very small layer. If the starting or lighthouse putty is of poor quality, you will not be able to correct the situation with the help of finishing putty. Therefore, first try to make the surfaces of the walls perfectly even. Only then proceed to the finishing putty. Its main goal is a beautiful smooth wall surface.

Finishing putty is made under special lighting, this allows you to see the smallest irregularities. Photo - vipconstruction.kiev.ua

Puttying cracks in the walls

To hide cracks in the walls, we recommend using gypsum mixtures for puttying. Santegypsum material is much more elastic in work, but hardens much longer. Tips from competent specialists: at first, it is recommended to slightly expand the crack, slightly increase its depth and thickness. To increase the roughness, you can scratch it with a knife or other sharp object along its entire length. Then carefully treat it with a primer. Only after that proceed to puttying.

Jointing cracks for putty. Photo - dekoratik.com

How to putty on walls

1. In the case of using dry putty, it is necessary to correctly prepare the putty mixture.

Cooking sequence:

• pour a small amount of water into the container;
• add putty;
• mix with a simple spatula;
• to obtain a homogeneous mixture, use a drill with a mixer, if necessary, gradually adding water.

Please note: the readiness of putty should be determined by consistency. It should become elastic and stick a little to the spatula. If the putty mixture flows down, then it is watery. Add the dry mix little by little to correct the situation. If there are lumps in the putty, it means that the putty is too dry. Add water little by little, stirring thoroughly to achieve perfect uniformity.

2. We apply the starting putty. It is convenient to use a large spatula. Apply putty in medium portions, spreading evenly over the surface. Hold the spatula at an angle of about 30 degrees. Putty is applied diagonally with a single movement. Recommendation: to avoid transitions and bumps, each subsequent layer should be applied with an overlap.

Attention: when performing the starting layer, knead the putty in small portions. This will avoid the appearance of dried dry particles, which will reduce the quality of work. Don't worry too much about ugly streaks from the spatula. The stripes are perfectly hidden by the finishing putty.

3. For smooth corners, we recommend using an angled trowel. Work technology: first, with a small spatula, a small layer of putty is applied over the entire height of the corner or slope. Then carefully level the surface with an angled spatula. During the day, the putty layer should dry well.

For puttying the corners you will need a special corner spatula.

4. As soon as the starting putty is completely dry, proceed to the finishing putty. For work, a large and small spatula are used. On a large spatula with a small spatula, put putty in small portions. Then evenly apply the putty mixture to the surface. The layer thickness is about 1.5 - 2 mm.

5. Before puttying the wall for painting or wallpaper, wait for the previous layers to dry completely. The starting and the first layer of finishing putty must be absolutely dry. This approximately takes about 12 hours. Then you can apply the finishing putty.

6. After complete drying, proceed to the final sanding with sandpaper.

Attention: before applying each next layer of putty, it is desirable to treat the previous one with a primer.

How to putty walls for painting and wallpaper

Previously, the walls are leveled with several layers of putty. If the wallpaper is thick, it is advisable to apply putty in two layers. When using thin wallpaper, we recommend applying three leveling layers of putty. This will allow you to stick the wallpaper on a flat surface without wrinkles and bubbles.

Video: Puttying the walls under the wallpaper

More thorough preparation requires wall decoration with paint. The paint does not hide even the slightest unevenness. Therefore, to level the walls, it is imperative to apply finishing putty.

The puttying procedure is carried out in five stages:

• apply the first thin layer of leveling putty with a spatula;
• for large irregularities, another 2-3 layers are used;
• let the putty dry;
• perform finishing putty to eliminate minor defects;
• after complete drying, rub the wall with sandpaper to obtain a perfectly smooth surface.

Video: Puttying the walls with a long spatula