How long will it take for an energy efficient house to pay for itself? Energy saving technologies of residential buildings
A project for an energy-saving house was implemented in Chekhov, Moscow Region.
The house is for sale. Priceenergy saving house is 7,500,000 rubles. The house is located within the city of Chekhov, a 20-minute walk from the center, 15 minutes from the forest, 250 meters from Pyaterochka and the bus stop public transport. Nearby there are schools, kindergartens, a sports complex, a plot of 5 acres, in the house:
4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen-living room with bay window area, second living room with bay window area on the second floor, storage room under the stairs, autonomous sewerage"Topol" connected to the drainage system for drainage process water, a water well, a septic tank where all the equipment is installed, electricity connected underground to the house, a water outlet for summer use, a water outlet for the bathhouse.
The house has a toilet, a sink, and the sewage system is already working. There is a place for a bathhouse, 2 parking spaces, paths, fir trees, pine trees, fruit trees, finished landscape works, summer veranda, place for a fireplace, insulated 5-chamber double-glazed windows, 3-chamber double-glazed windows. The inside of the house is plastered to look like a lighthouse, 3 layers of putty are applied, roof insulation is 20 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam), floor insulation is 10 cm (Knauf polystyrene foam for floors).
Detailed description of an energy-saving house:
The house is made of cellular concrete (aerated concrete), blocks 375 mm wide with a density of D 500, this is one of the best materials for the construction of energy-saving houses. The topic of energy-saving technologies is very broad, so we will dwell a little on the main points and directly tell you about our home.
Last time, construction of energy-saving houses is gaining great popularity in Russia. This is understandable; the times of useless waste of energy, resources and time are passing. Buy an energy-efficient house today it is quite simple, as more and more relevant objects have begun to enter the market. At construction of energy-saving houses , the main emphasis is on good insulation of the house and reducing heat losses to a minimum, as well as accumulating energy in the house from external energy sources.
Average statistical indicators of energy consumption in everyday life:
Lighting 2-3%
Cooking 4-6%
Other home appliances (Refrigerator, washing machine, etc.) 6%
Water heating 12%
Heating 73-76%
Of course, these indicators are average and different for everyone, but you can’t argue with the fact that heating takes up the bulk of energy consumed in everyday life.
There is an opinion that houses built using energy-saving technologies are limited in design solutions. This opinion is very dubious and in reality has practically no effect on the exterior of the house, since there are no special restrictions on structural forms, the main condition is high-quality insulation home in all possible structural elements (walls, roof, floors, windows, doors, ventilation, cold bridges, etc.).
In addition to heat conservation, energy-saving houses pay attention to the accumulation and use of solar energy, wind energy and other possible options.
We tried to implement the project in a modern classic style with elements of Provence.
The main goal in building an energy-saving house was:
1) Construction of a house with high energy-saving indicators using modern environmentally friendly materials High Quality.
2) Compliance with all necessary standards, deadlines and requirements for the construction of these structures.
3) The use of materials in the construction of a house that allow the house to “breathe” and maintain the correct microclimate.
4) Convenient zoning and space planning while maintaining the functionality of the entire space. There are no non-functional areas in the house.
5) The area of the house was calculated for the comfortable living of a family from 2-3 (with perspective) to 5-6 people, without the construction of “empty” areas, which in reality are practically not used and are a lifelong liability for which you have to pay for your whole life, just like that.
.jpg)
6) Selecting a site within the city, with a convenient location, developed infrastructure, transport accessibility (but not closer than 200 meters to the road).
7) Selection of a site with the possibility of carrying out all necessary communications.
8) Possibility of registration in the future.
9) A plot that allows you to allocate space for parking two cars.
10) Use of modern heating technologies (economically profitable and easy to use).
The house was built according to the project. Most of the work was completed with a quality margin above the norm.
Stages of building an energy-saving house:
1 . Foundation in an energy-efficient house.
When buying an energy-efficient home, this is the first thing that you should pay special attention to, so that in the future we are not surprised by surprises in the form of cracks, etc.
The foundation is the foundation of the house, and we approached it thoroughly. When choosing a foundation, preference was given to a strip-pile foundation. This is due to the reliability of the design and durability. The price of the foundation is significant, but it is worth it.
The strip-pile foundation consists of metal piles with a diameter of 108 mm, with blades of 350 mm, twisted to a depth of 2 meters (below the freezing depth in the Moscow Region 1.7 m).
The choice of the company that sells and installs the piles was thorough (since the piles must be made of very high quality, for a long service life, have good processing and all the necessary protective layers. The seams must be factory-made and without damage). From above, the piles are cut to level and the cavity is necessarily filled with high-quality concrete.
Next, the foundation for the strip foundation is prepared (removal of soil and installation of a sand cushion). All piles are covered with a reinforcement frame made of 16 pieces of reinforcement according to the design (tying the structure together to create a strong, solid foundation for the house).
When the concrete had set and dried, they installed it on top high-quality waterproofing. It lay down neatly, since the surface of the strip foundation was leveled under the lighthouse. Before pouring the foundation, all necessary communications were brought into the house to the necessary places.
2. Installation of slabs on the 1st floor in an energy-saving house.
Next, we installed slabs (PNO - lightweight). They can withstand the same load as slabs with a thickness of 22 cm - 800 kg.m.sq. The choice of PNO slabs is determined so as not to place unnecessary load on the foundation. The slabs were secured to the foundation and the installation of cellular concrete began.
3. Installation of load-bearing walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house.
As mentioned above, for an energy-saving house, load-bearing wall blocks were chosen with a width of 375 mm and grade D 500. There are many reasons for choosing cellular concrete as the main material for building a house:
1. This is a modern and high-quality material that has all the necessary environmental standards.
2. Excellent energy-saving properties, thanks to the huge number of small pores in the material filled with air. And as we know, air is the best insulating material. The thermal insulation and isotropic properties of cellular concrete are the same in both vertical and horizontal directions. In the cold season, the house keeps warm, and in summer cool.
3. The material has excellent geometry, is very convenient to use, can be easily processed, cut, etc. (usually major manufacturer producing high-quality products, real differences in geometry up to 2 mm). Due to the possibility of easy processing of the material, it can be given any interesting design shapes.
4. Cellular concrete “breathes,” which is very important for creating the right microclimate in the house. This is highly valued in Europe and other developed countries.
In practice, the house was tested: 2 people spent the night in a small room on the 1st floor, the window and door did not open during the night, in the morning there was no shortage of air due to slow air exchange and removal carbon dioxide. Lack of air is felt in houses with highly airtight walls. Such houses should usually have good ventilation.
5. The material is durable, does not require any maintenance over time, does not lose its properties, does not age, does not rot, does not burn.
6. Has virtually no shrinkage.
7. Very convenient for laying communications, electrical, etc.
8. The material is non-flammable and has high fire resistance even with small wall thicknesses.
9. High strength with low weight.
10. Good sound insulation performance.
11. Thanks to the precise geometry, the masonry joint is actually 1-2 mm, which eliminates heat loss through the joints and reduces consumption masonry mortar. The blocks are laid using an adhesive composition.
If you make a seam from 5 to 10 mm or more in brick wall or a wall made of 15-20 mm blocks, then the total area of masonry joints can range from 15 - 30% of the wall surface. But the masonry mixture does not high performance energy saving, so such structures must be additionally insulated.
12. Using this material, you can avoid cold bridges throughout the entire house if you follow the construction technology correctly. (This will make it possible to avoid condensation on the internal surfaces of the house during the cold season).
13. Thanks to proven construction technology and the availability of the necessary tools, the speed of construction of structures is very high.
14. Convenient for fastening on all wall surfaces.
15. There is no need for additional wall insulation. (And this is very significant).
Construction of the walls of the first floor in an energy-saving house:
When erecting walls, window openings must be strengthened. To do this, in the places of window openings in front of the last row of blocks, reinforcement is installed in 2 rows, so that it extends beyond the edge of the window opening by at least 500 mm in both directions. This prevents cracks from forming under window openings.
4. The first armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the installation of the last row of blocks on the first floor, we assembled the formwork for the reinforced aerated concrete belt. An armored belt is required in houses made of aerated concrete, and it must be continuous around the entire perimeter of the house. This design will protect the house from pushing forces.
Many people underestimate its necessity, making independent decisions about its feasibility. Such a decision can only be made by an experienced architect who knows the specifics of working with aerated concrete.
The filling of the armored belt, the concrete structure, will be separated from external temperatures by a 10 cm cellular concrete partition, and this is not enough for us, so we installed extruded polystyrene foam between the armored belt and the external aerated concrete to insulate the structure.
5. Installation of floor slabs on the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Anchors made of 16-diameter reinforcement were secured in the reinforced belt for attaching floor slabs to them. All floor slabs were installed according to the design. The slabs were secured through the reinforcement located in the slabs with a 10 cm welding seam, with 16 reinforcement coming out of the reinforcement belt.
6. Construction of the walls of the second floor in an energy-saving house.
Next we started building the walls of the second floor. The peculiarity of the second floor in our house is that it is full and at the lowest junction of the walls and the roof the distance from the floor to the roof is 2.25 meters.
As a rule, the majority attic floors have 50-90% of full height, where you can move comfortably.
7. Second armored belt in an energy-saving house.
Having completed the last row of the second floor, formwork is prepared from aerated concrete and insulation is installed on the inside of the outer partition made of extruded polystyrene foam to insulate the reinforced belt. Additionally, studs are installed to secure the Mauerlat. According to the project, the studs were calculated to be 12 mm and the fixation should be in an armored belt.
This work was carried out with a margin above the norm: the studs were set to 18 in diameter, the fixation is in the reinforced belt and an additional 500 mm down two rows into the aerated concrete. All pins are about 1 meter long. The work was carried out to ensure a large margin of stability under strong wind loads.
The armored belt is poured from concrete grade M 300.
Both armored belts pass over the window openings and are made in such a way that all concrete structures are hidden in aerated concrete, both on the front side and on the inside and are insulated with polystyrene foam. This is done in order to avoid cold bridges and condensation.
8. Installation of a Mauerlat in an Energy Saving House.
After the reinforced belt concrete had dried and gained its strength, we moved on to installing the Mauerlat. All the boards used to build the house were carefully treated in 2 layers with neomid and dried for about 2 months. Before installing the Mauerlat, high-quality waterproofing was installed on the armored belt.
For the Mauerlat we used 150 x 150 mm timber. Holes were drilled for the studs, then the power plate was installed and the nuts and washers were tightened. All fasteners used for the roof must be galvanized, which is rust-resistant.
9. Construction of gables in an energy-saving house.
While the armored belt dries out and gains strength, pediments are erected on both sides. Here we need precise calculations for the correct and symmetrical construction of the pediments. The entire geometry of the roof depends on this.
The construction of the gables was carried out using precisely set templates. This job requires special effort, since almost all blocks must be trimmed, the angle and required slope must be observed. There is a ventilation hole on each gable for air circulation in the attic, 300 x 300 mm.
10. Installation of a roof frame in an energy-efficient house.
After completing the gables we moved on to installation rafter system roofs. A board 200 X 50 X 6000 mm was used as a rafter. We deliberately used a board height of 200 mm to provide the high-quality insulation we needed.
The rafter system is the basis of the roof; its entire basis will depend on the accuracy of this work. It is necessary to accurately make all calculations and check all diagonals. First, the rafters are installed on two different sides of the gables, then the entire roof frame is assembled along the cords.
Fastening to the Mauerlat is made using a special cutout in the rafters and two galvanized corners. The corners according to the project are 60 X 60 X 2 mm. We used a margin of 100 X 100 X 3 mm. For fixation, yellow self-tapping screws and 12 mm studs with washers and nuts were used. The rafters were positioned relative to each other in 60 cm increments to strengthen the roof structure.
At the same time, the roof ridge was being installed. For the ridge, a beam of 100 X 200 X 6000 mm was used.
11. Installation of waterproofing, counter-lattice and sheathing in an energy-efficient house.
To install the correct “pie” of our roof, it is necessary to perform all the necessary work. To begin with, we choose high-quality waterproofing that suits all necessary requirements. We chose the Corotop Classic membrane. It has excellent characteristics and is capable of protecting a house from precipitation for up to six months, if metal tiles have not yet been installed. Tested in practice: there have been several heavy rains, the result is not a single drop of water was allowed inside.
It does not let moisture in (condensation from metal tiles, humid air, etc.), but is able to remove excess moisture out, this is similar to the structure of the skin. The membrane is installed with an overlap; for this purpose, the membrane has the necessary drawings. Overlapping areas are additionally taped with special roofing double-sided tape.
Next, we install a counter-lattice for the required ventilation gap, a board 50 X 50 mm. After this, we proceed to install the sheathing. For the lathing, a board 25 X 100 X 6000 mm was used. Here, too, accurate calculations are required, checking diagonals, calculating the pitch for metal tiles, etc. The counter-lattice and sheathing are fastened with galvanized 100 mm rough nails.
12. Installation of metal tiles, snow guards, ventilation outlets and drainage system in an energy-efficient house.
The choice of metal tiles was approached just as thoroughly. We chose it in a large specialized store "Unikma". There is no place for savings and experiments here :). The choice fell on the Finnish concern Ruukki, color PURAL MATT. The service life of this metal tile is 50 years. The sheets were made to order, in one piece.
At the same time, in necessary places, we cut in two Vilpe ventilation outlets of 125 mm each and one sewer outlet of 110 mm. We secured the metal tiles according to the fastening diagram for reliable fixation and protection from gusts of wind.
We chose a metal gutter system because it is of higher quality, does not fade in the sun, and is stronger. Installation of snow guards is a necessary safety measure. Moreover, it is very important to install a high-quality one, secure it well.
Snow loads can be very significant, and in addition to the huge amount of snow and ice falling from the roof, snow retainers can be added to them.
13. Installation of windows, window sills and front door in an energy-efficient house.
If we building an energy-saving house , which means the windows must be appropriate. If you decide buy an energy-efficient house , pay special attention to window structures.
The window profile chosen is very warm, 5-chamber and three-chamber double-glazed windows. The glass we chose was also energy-saving. To effectively insulate double-glazed windows, on the façade side, the window openings were insulated with aerated concrete.
On both sides, the windows have decorative lamination that matches the style of the house. Window sills have the same lamination.
The entrance door was ordered insulated with polystyrene foam.
14. Facade plaster and putty in an energy-saving house.
To ensure high-quality protection of the facade of the house, it is necessary to carry out a series of sequential works. Important for external works, use materials intended specifically for the facade. First, the surface is cleaned and primed. Next, we fill all the small chips with facade plaster. After this, apply with a spatula thin layer 2 - 3 mm facade plaster in 2 layers.
We do without standard plaster due to the fact that the walls were built level and have a very flat surface. Next, we prime again and apply façade putty in 2 layers. The work was carried out before the first frost with the addition of anti-frost additives. With the onset of the first negative temperatures, work was postponed until spring.
15. Construction of partitions in an energy-saving house.
During the winter, work began inside the house. For partitions, used cellular concrete 150 mm thick, brand D600. We lay waterproofing under the base of the wall and lay the first row level on the mortar. Next, installation proceeds to the adhesive mixture.
Partitions must be connected to load-bearing walls special connections. In the upper part of the junction of the partitions with the ceiling, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint of up to 2 cm, it must be foamed.
Naturally, the partitions must be built with high quality, so that later you do not have to spend a lot on plaster mixture and additional work. We got an average thickness interior plaster 6 - 10 mm. The floors, after installing the partitions, were filled with self-leveling flooring (preparing the surface for laying polystyrene foam).
16. Installing insulation in an energy-efficient house.
The correct choice of insulation and high-quality installation, one the most important stages in the construction of an energy-saving house. Before buy an energy-efficient house , this factor is worth paying attention to the most. The choice of polystyrene foam was not accidental.
Firstly, expanded polystyrene retains heat better than other insulation based on glass wool, etc.
Secondly, there is no dangerous dust that causes allergies (used in fiberglass-based insulation, etc.). People often disassemble such roof insulation because over time they absorb moisture and lose their efficiency and volume. They have the advantage of not being flammable.
For insulation, we chose KNAUF polystyrene foam, which does not burn, but only melts. This has been tested experimentally. And since we are talking about the resistance of materials to fire, we can assume that if there is a fire in the house and the surfaces of the walls, furniture, coverings, and wooden roof structures catch fire, then no insulation will save you, whether it is susceptible to burning or not.
To do this, it is better to provide the necessary security measures. Of course, we do not consider cheap polystyrene foam options, the composition of which may be unsuitable for use in the home. Only high-quality material, with the necessary certificates and proven over the years.
Yes, polystyrene foam is more labor-intensive to install, but the result is worth it. The thickness of the insulation on the roof is 20 cm wide everywhere. The installation was carried out in 4 layers, 5 cm each.
After installing each layer, all the cracks were thoroughly foamed and so on for all 4 layers. Thanks to this, very high-quality insulation was obtained.
From below, the insulation is insulated with a vapor barrier membrane. We have a Corotop Classic water vapor barrier membrane, and that’s what we use. Moisture-resistant OSB boards are installed on top, in the attic, above the insulation, to allow movement along the surface and protect the polystyrene foam.
The cracks, after installing OSB boards, are also foamed. Ventilation communications are laid, which are also well insulated.
To insulate the Mauerlat area, it is necessary to make inserts from extruded polystyrene foam on the front side and properly foam all the cracks. WITH inside partition made of cellular concrete.
On the floor of the first floor, Knauf polystyrene foam for flooring is laid.
It is more dense and you can easily move on it without damaging it. Layer thickness 10 cm.
Thus, we insulated the entire house. The largest layer of insulation is concentrated on the roof, because through it the most heat is lost. The house is designed in such a way as to minimize heat loss. That's why our house is called energy-saving.
This factor is given great importance. This is due to the fact that the most high consumption in the maintenance of a house and other real estate, it is usually spent on heating. A house is built once, but will have to be maintained for the rest of its life.
We conducted an experiment:
The temperature in the house was + 10 degrees, outside the temperature was minus 15-17 degrees. All heating devices were turned off, a day later they took measurements and the temperature was + 8 degrees. Without heating, in cold weather, an energy-saving house with an area of 120 sq.m. I lost only 2 degrees.
17. Plaster and putty interior walls in an energy-saving house.
The walls are primed and after drying, the chips are filled. Next, the internal surfaces are plastered with a layer of 6-10 mm, plaster mixture For interior works based on gypsum (Rotband Knauf). Before applying the putty, it must be additionally primed and allowed to dry. The putty is made in 3 layers.
18. Application of decorative bark beetle plaster in an energy-saving house.
For decorative plaster, we chose “bark beetle” texture, 2.5 mm filler. VGT plaster has excellent protective characteristics and creates a very durable coating without interfering with air exchange.
The color was chosen according to the general style. Applying such plaster requires certain skills and experience; application is carried out from edge to edge.
19. Construction of blind areas, paths and parking spaces in an energy-saving house.
For correct device, it is necessary to remove a layer of earth about 40 cm deep. After this, the base is filled with crushed stone and compacted.
On top, add a layer of sand, which is moistened and compacted well. Next, it is necessary to install a mesh to prevent cracks and fractures. On all surfaces concrete structures, there is a slight slope to drain rainwater.
Also, the site has a drainage system that removes excess water from the site underground. The paths and blind area are 100 cm wide, not only for drainage of precipitation, but also for ease of movement along them. There is a convenient entrance for cars on the site.
For a convenient location of two cars, the area is concreted, while you can move freely, cars do not block the passage. It is possible to accommodate larger vehicles.
There is a concrete area for barbecue. The kebab maker is made in the same stylistic direction. To create a good drainage system and level the site, 10 cubic meters of crushed stone and 40 cubic meters of sand were used.
20. Planting a lawn on the site of an energy-saving house.
To install a lawn, it is necessary to create a fertile layer of chernozem about 10 cm. The chernozem is leveled over the site with a slight slope to drain water and comply with the general landscape of the site.
For planting, we used low-growing lawn. On the site there are also: 6 pines, 3 fir trees, 2 cherries, one plum, small raspberry bushes. For gardening, there is an area behind the house. We fundamentally do not use any chemicals, pesticides, herbicides, etc. We are firmly in favor of a healthy lifestyle and this aspect is not indifferent to us.
21. Construction of a summer veranda in an energy-saving house.
The summer veranda is made in modern style, mixed with Provence, artificially aged, timber 150 X 150 mm and 100 X 100 mm. All lower parts have reliable protection. They underwent two-time treatment with neomid, then two-time treatment with bitumen mastic.
The upper parts of the veranda were treated with neomid, marilka and 2-time treatment yacht varnish. On the veranda, there is a table made of solid pine, 100 mm thick, in the same style, with the addition of real masculine brutality.
The house has a place for a fireplace on the ground floor in the kitchen-living room. The chimney pipe should pass through the wall behind the fireplace, under the stairs and through the wall to the street, then rises to the roof.
In such a house it is not necessary to install gas, since it retains heat very well. If the fireplace is running in winter, the energy consumption will be quite insignificant. This house was planned for the most modern system heating, infrared with adjustable temperature sensors. Infrared film is mounted under drywall.
If the house is well insulated, then the system operates only 10-15% of the time per day, which ensures low consumption. If you look into it and see the facts, then gas is necessary if the house is poorly insulated. During winter, electricity bills add up to significant amounts.
But this is not a problem either, the gas has already been piped to the neighboring houses, the pipe runs 1 meter from the fence, and can be connected if desired.
22. Buy an Energy Saving House
If you decide to buy an energy-saving house, in our opinion, the advantage is obvious: the price is the same as that of similar ones, and the maintenance is much more profitable. and this is not only in winter; in summer, air conditioning is practically not needed. One of the main tasks when building an energy-saving house was to maintain an affordable price for the object. It seems to us that we have completed this task. Many believe that the price of such houses will be exorbitant, we tried to dispel these doubts and create a property in an affordable price segment.
E energy saving house price is 7,500,000 rubles, this is the price of a good one-room apartment in Moscow. :)
As a gift from our studio, we are giving free development of a design project for this house.
Sincerely, Mira-Style Design Studio.
Tel: 8 495 507 91 56
Email: [email protected]
Today, the problems of energy efficiency of housing in Russia are the most pressing. And this concerns not only the increased cost of electricity, but also the deterioration of the environmental situation caused by the greenhouse effect. About an energy-efficient residential building for the first time
began to be thought about in Europe. And first of all, Western specialists were interested in the issue of reducing prices for energy saving and heating. As a result of this, special construction standards were developed and they began to implement modern classifications buildings and structures in accordance with their level of energy consumption.
Usually, most of electricity is spent on. In addition, a significant part of the resources goes to operating household appliances, heating water and cooking food.
Western countries spend about 57% of their total electricity on heating, while in Russia this figure is 72%.
Construction energy efficient houses Doing it yourself will be only 15% more expensive than building an ordinary house, and it will be able to justify itself within a couple of months from the start of use. The efficiency of using such a house will increase not only by changing special building standards, but also by revising certain principles of energy consumption, for example, the use LED lamps and LCD TVs.
Buildings and structures that are built according to the standards and norms of energy efficiency technology allow you to save up to 70% of the total payment for utility services.
This saves a lot of energy and money. And the general indicators of temperature, air humidity and microclimate are much higher than generally accepted, and can be easily regulated by the owner of the house.
Below we give Russian classification buildings and structures according to heat consumption and energy efficiency standards:
- old buildings (600kW/h per 1m? per year);
- new buildings (350kW/h per 1m? per year).
The harsh climate in some regions of Russia requires more significant costs for heating residential premises. Although, accepted norms and standards should not always be considered satisfied.
It is necessary to use new technologies, non-standard solutions, high-quality materials for low electrical consumption. And the possibilities for this currently exist.
Passive houses
Today, the idea of a passive house is called the most progressive.
Its essence is to create a house from an expensive object that will not depend on external resources, and will be able to generate electricity independently and at the same time be environmentally friendly.
Currently, this idea has not been fully implemented.
Security required quantity The energy of a passive house comes from renewable natural resources, such as sunlight, earth and wind energy. You can also use the natural heat generated by people and household appliances in the house as an energy source. Heat loss can be minimized due to the design features of the building, better thermal insulation, the use of energy-saving methods, and the creation of effective ventilation.
Principles of building an energy efficient house
the main task energy efficient home- this reduces energy costs, especially during the winter months.
The main principles of building a house are:
- 15 centimeter thermal insulation layer;
House project - simple shape of the building and roof;
- use of environmentally friendly and warm materials;
- installation of mechanical ventilation;
- use of natural energy;
- orientation when building a house to the south;
- elimination of cold bridges;
- 100% tightness of the building.
Most Russian buildings of the same type have natural heat, which is ineffective and leads to large heat losses. And in the summer this technology does not work at all, as in other winter time years when constant ventilation of the premises is necessary. Installing a special air recuperator will allow you to use already heated air to heat the incoming air.
The recuperation system provides up to 90% of the heat by heating the air.
It is worth noting that building a large house will lead to large heat losses.
It is worth focusing on the areas for actual living and their use. Because heating unused spaces and rooms is simply unacceptable. The construction of a house must be calculated for the exact number of people living in it. And the remaining rooms in the house will be heated by natural human heat and the operation of household appliances.
An energy efficient house is usually built taking into account all climatic conditions and their use. Sunny days or windy should be a clue for you to choose certain energy sources. And it is important to achieve tightness not only through window and doorways, but also due to the use of special double-sided plaster, reliable and high-quality and protection from the wind. It should also be remembered that the more, the greater the heat loss.
Taking into account the energy efficiency of a house at the design stage
When choosing a specific place to build a house, it is necessary to take into account the natural landscape. The selected area should be flat and without elevation changes. In general, any landscape feature can be used to increase efficiency. For example, the height difference will provide a low-cost water supply.
You should also consider the position of the house relative to the sun in order to use solar lighting instead of electric lighting.
High-quality and must be provided from the very beginning of construction. Because energy efficiency without of this type isolation is not possible.
The canopy and porch slope should be optimal in width so as not to create shadows in natural light, and at the same time protect the building from overheating and protect the walls from rain. must be designed taking into account the mass of snow cover in winter. You also need to organize proper gutters and roof insulation.
All these measures will reduce maintenance costs and increase the lifespan of the house.
Measures to improve the energy efficiency of a wooden house
Increasing the energy efficiency of an already built house is quite possible. Although, it is necessary to take into account the return of the house. If the house is in good condition and is not subject to demolition in a few years, then it can be reconstructed.
Energy losses can be reduced by using modern materials and technology. The first thing you need to start with is identifying heat leaks. Cold bridges take away a significant part of the heat of the entire house. Therefore, it is very important to find such places in the tightness of walls, roofs, window and door openings.
As is known, heat flow is always directed towards lower temperature. So, for example, the heat of a house heated in winter rushes out through the enclosing structures (walls, windows, doors, roof) and as a result is lost.
It is estimated that heating uninsulated old houses requires about 220-270 kWh/mChod. According to modern thermal protection standards, energy consumption for newly built houses should not exceed 54-100 kWh/mChod. If we consider that 10 kWh corresponds to the energy obtained by burning approximately 1 liter of liquid boiler fuel, then it is not difficult to calculate how much fuel (money) can be saved if you effectively insulate the house.
Note that heat loss through individual elements of the house is different and depends on the thermal insulation qualities of the structures and their sizes. The maximum heat loss occurs, as a rule, on the outer walls - up to 35-45% of the heat escapes through them (depending on the design).
A significantly smaller percentage of the total area of external fences consists of windows. However, their resistance to heat transfer is 2-3 times less than that of external walls. Therefore, windows account for up to 20-30% of the heat loss of the entire house.
A considerable part of the heat is lost through the roof. Moreover, in one- and two-story buildings, losses are much higher than in multi-story buildings, and amount to about 30-35% of total heat losses. About 3-10% of the heat escapes through the ceilings. Of course, some of the heat flows out of the house through utility pipes.
The temperature characteristics of an uninsulated wall in the summer (above) and winter (below) periods indicate the need for thermal insulation, if only because of the temperature of the inner surface of the wall.
A “cold bridge” is formed, for example, at the junction reinforced concrete floor with facing concrete belt and the façade of the outer wall: 1 - outer wall; 2 - floating screed; 3 - interfloor covering; 4 - “bridge of cold”.
If there is a “cold bridge”, condensation may form in the living room. At a room temperature of 20°C, one cubic meter of air can contain 17.5 g of moisture in the form of water vapor. When the temperature on the inner surface of the outer wall drops to 0″C, the indicated volume of air may contain only 5 g of moisture. The remaining 12.5 g of moisture condenses and settles on the cold wall.
Condensation forms where there are “cold bridges”, for example, where the internal thermal insulation is interrupted by a transverse wall: 1 - external wall; 2 - internal thermal insulation; 3 - corner where the temperature is reduced to 6-7°C; 4 - transverse wall; 5 - condensate; 6 - place where the temperature is reduced to 17°C.
Of course, it is impossible to achieve a complete absence of heat leaks in an energy-efficient house. But it is possible to reduce losses to a reasonable minimum. One way is to reduce the perimeter of the exterior walls. If you do not want to change the architecture of the building, you need to take care of proper insulation. Because the greatest number heat is lost through the walls, so we’ll talk about them first.
As is known, there are three main options for wall insulation: place the insulation on the inner surface of the wall; hide it inside the enclosing structure; arrange insulation of the wall from the outside. Each of these methods has its own characteristics.
The energy state of the house is shown by thermographic studies. Heat leaks are clearly visible here.
Internal wall insulation
This method has a number of disadvantages. Obviously, with this arrangement of insulation, the area of the premises is reduced. But this is not the main problem. The main thing is that with internal insulation, the wall is in a zone of negative temperatures, which partly affects the insulation itself. In addition, the natural diffusion of water vapor through the fence is disrupted, and conditions are created for the formation of condensation at the boundary of the wall and the insulation. Increased humidity leads not only to a decrease in thermal characteristics, but also to the appearance and active growth fungi, mold. Another serious drawback is that external walls, insulated from the inside, lose their heat-accumulating properties.
Internal insulation. In the absence of a vapor barrier, condensation forms at the boundary of the layers.
Internal thermal insulation using expanded polystyrene (styrofoam): 1 - a combined layer of styrofoam and plasterboard; 2 - adhesive solution; 3 - plasterboard; 4 -styrofoam; 5 - masonry; 6 - plaster.
Internal thermal insulation using mineral fiber boards. Unlike styrofoam, which is itself vapor-proof, it requires additional insulation: 1 - plasterboard; 2 - mineral fiber board 80 mm thick; 3 - vapor-proof film; 4 - masonry.
Thus, internal thermal insulation is advisable only if the house has a unique external design, which can be disrupted by external insulation of its walls (for example, if we are talking about architectural monuments).
Insulation of an external wall from the inside using a metal supporting structure. Thin soundproofing strips are installed between the wall and the profiles. Mineral fiber boards 50 mm thick were used as insulation.
There are other reasons why you may prefer internal insulation. For example, it is easier to insulate a house from the inside than from the outside. Even an amateur can do this task. Another plus is that a room with internal thermal insulation can be warmed up faster. Finally related to internal insulation work can be carried out gradually, in separate rooms.
External wall insulation
One of the advanced methods of thermal insulation is “warm facade” or “wet” type external insulation- the most universal and has been used in many European countries for more than half a century. For example, in Germany alone, during 1996, such systems were used on an area of more than 43 million m2!!!
Combined wet system- multilayer construction, which is based on three layers. Thermal insulation layer - slabs made of materials with a low thermal conductivity coefficient (mineral wool or polystyrene foam). The second layer is a special plaster and adhesive composition, reinforced with an alkali-resistant mesh. The third layer is protective and decorative plaster (mineral, acrylic, silicate, silicone), which can be painted with special paints.
Shown here is the installation of insulation between the main and facing masonry by using compressor unit. Volcanic rock, better known as perlite, is used as insulation.
Advantages external thermal insulation there are quite a lot of “wet” types. The main thing is the ability to provide the façade insulation required by standards using inexpensive means. In this case, the walls will be thin, since they only need to have sufficient load-bearing capacity, and the insulation will not allow heat loss. In addition, the walls will be light, which means that the cost of constructing a foundation, one of the most expensive elements of a building, will be reduced. The air temperature in the rooms of such an energy-efficient house is distributed more evenly, resulting in a more pleasant microclimate. Wet-type systems also significantly improve soundproofing properties walls
They have proven themselves excellent as external thermal insulation. combined systems“wet” type based on polystyrene foam or mineral fiber boards, covered with vapor-permeable plaster with fiberglass.
In summer “warm façade” reduces heating of enclosing structures under the influence of sunlight and high air temperatures, so the temperature inside the room will not increase sharply.
In order for a “warm facade” to retain its performance properties for a long time, it must meet certain requirements. For example, it is very important that all layers of a “warm facade” not only have necessary indicators in terms of water absorption, vapor permeability, frost resistance, thermal expansion, but also combined with each other in these indicators.
Compatibility is determined only by calculation of the system as a whole. Thus, it is necessary that in a multilayer structure, each subsequent layer (from the inside to the outside) allows steam to pass through better than the previous one. Underestimation of this circumstance leads to the use together, for example, of mineral wool insulation with excellent vapor permeability and polymer decorative plaster (thin, but poorly permeable to steam). The result is peeling of the finishing layer. To avoid such situations, experts do not recommend using cheap but unfamiliar materials, as this usually has a detrimental effect on the quality and service life of the “warm facade”.
The basis for “wet” type thermal insulation can be reinforced concrete (panels or monolith), brick or stone masonry, foam concrete, metal, wood, etc. Some difficulties, according to some experts, are walls made of foam concrete blocks. They themselves are very “warm” and, moreover, have high vapor permeability, which in combination with an external insulation system can lead to troubles: a shift in the dew point into the thickness of the block (instead of the insulation board) or a zone of negative temperatures inside the wall, condensation at the boundary of the insulation and plaster layer. All this reduces the durability of the structure and even destroys it.
Perimeter insulating slabs are used as external thermal insulation in the foundation area: 1 - basement wall; 2 - horizontal waterproofing outer wall; 3 - primer; 4 - vertical waterproofing; 5 - perimeter insulating plate; 6 - outer layer.
To avoid these problems, you should carefully select the density and thickness of foam concrete blocks, the type and thickness of insulation, fasteners and materials for reinforced and protective and decorative layers.
Ventilated facade systems
More than 50% of new buildings in Europe have ventilated facades. In this case, the thermal insulation material is laid in a sheathing, to which elements of the outer shell made of slate, boards, slabs, etc. are attached.
A special feature of this system is the presence of a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer and the decorative finish. In the summer heat, this design prevents penetration
heat through the outer wall into the room. In winter, facing slabs protect from wind, and the air space in the wall acts as additional insulation. A positive point is also the absence of sudden changes in the temperature of the fence. Similar design the walls do not prevent moisture from escaping - they breathe.
External walls can be insulated curtain facades, for example, from fiber cement boards, shingles or tongue and groove boards. It is important that there is a ventilation gap between the cladding and the insulation laid between the sheathing slats, which is necessary for air circulation.
Facade slabs protect old wall from exposure to rain. Moisture accidentally entering through joints or gaps fasteners, does not reach the insulation or load-bearing structures, and thanks to sufficient ventilation it dries on the inner surface of the cladding without damaging the wall itself.
Fiber cement boards are often used as a facing material in curtain-wall façade systems. They consist of 85% cement and 15% cellulose fibers and various mineral fillers, and are made by pressing.
Composition and unique technologies production gives the material environmental friendliness, fire safety, low moisture and sound permeability. The material is durable - its service life is about 100-150 years, and its frost resistance is up to 300 cycles, which is several times higher than that of brick. The slabs are easy to install and process.
Another advantage of the curtain wall system- the possibility of using insulation with a layer of up to 250 mm. For this purpose, hydrophobized mineral wool slabs based on basalt fiber are used, specially developed for ventilated facades. This insulation is absolutely fireproof, environmentally friendly and has good vapor permeability.
The system can be installed fairly quickly. The work is being carried out all year round, since wet processes are completely excluded, which is especially important for Russia with its cold climate.
Roof insulation
The house should be thermally insulated on all sides, including the top. Moreover, it is advisable to insulate not only the ceiling, but also the roof, even if attic space and there are no plans to make it residential.
When thermal insulation is laid on top of the rafters, the roof will be most reliably protected from temperature fluctuations. If this is not possible, the insulation is placed between the rafters, or even under them. It is very important to properly protect the insulation from blowing and moisture from the side of the roofing and from steam from the side of the room.
Shown here is the structure of the roof with the placement of insulation between the rafters: 1 - hydro-windproof film; 2 - vapor barrier film.
Temperature and humidity conditions have a significant impact on the service life of thermal insulation. operation of the structure, exposure to wind, snow and other mechanical loads. In addition, insulation materials must retain their basic functions for a long time (including water and bioresistance), not emit toxic or unpleasant-smelling substances during operation, and meet fire safety requirements.
As a rule, the roofs of country houses are pitched. Strength requirements for thermal insulation materials for pitched roofs not so rigid, but it is important that the material does not sag under its own weight and does not shrink. Otherwise, “cold bridges” may appear under the ridge. This effect often occurs when using low-density fiberglass products.
Expanded polystyrene is only partially suitable for insulating pitched roofs: it is flammable, which means it requires fire-fighting measures, including fire-retardant impregnation of wooden structures, installation of fire-retardant layers, etc.
It is most advisable to use hydrophobized slabs made of basalt rocks.
These materials laminated with foil or fiberglass are best suited for insulating unloaded roof structures.
The listed measures for insulating houses must be carried out in compliance important requirement: the insulation must be continuous, without gaps, since any place where the thermal insulation is interrupted forms a “cold bridge”. In addition, in uninsulated places, due to temperature differences, condensation can form, which will certainly lead to the destruction of the structure.
Let's remember physics. As you know, the air always contains a certain amount of water vapor. They determine air humidity, which is higher, the more moisture contained in 1 m3 of air.
However, the air can only be saturated with water to a certain extent. For example, at a temperature of 20°C, 1 m3 of air can contain 17.5 g of moisture.
If this value is exceeded at the same temperature, moisture from the air will begin to fall out in the form of small droplets - condensation. At the same time, the lower the air temperature, the less water it can contain. For example, at a temperature of 0°C its amount is only 5 g per 1 m3. Thus, if air at a temperature of 20°C begins to cool to 5°C, then 12.5 g of moisture will fall out in the form of condensation.
Window insulation
The thermal balance of a home largely depends on windows.
Modern window systems based on double-glazed windows with effective sealing of seams can significantly reduce heat loss. However, with such reliable insulation windows, the indoor air becomes more humid and saturated with harmful substances. In these conditions, the issue of room ventilation becomes acute.
Equipped with well-sealed windows energy efficient house equipped with a ventilation system with a heat exchanger and an additional heat pump: A - outside air; B - exhaust air; C - air exhausted into the atmosphere; D- supply air; 1 - heat exchanger; 2 - fan; 3 - heat pump.
Modern double-glazed windows have very high thermal insulation properties: 1 - glass; 2 - xenon gas; 3 - drying agent; 4 - butyl seal; 5 - polysulfide seal; 6 - aluminum spacer element.
Modern window designs provide ventilation when the window is closed.
Recently, specially designed windows have appeared on the market that provide constant air exchange. At the same time, neither draft nor street noise are felt. In the same time modern market offers a wide range of fans and heat exchangers that reduce energy consumption through rational ventilation of rooms.
Windows in an energy-efficient house have another function: receiving extra heat from the sun's rays.
When using highly insulating glass, the temperature on their inner surface is 17″C, which creates a favorable microclimate in the room. At a similar temperature outside the window, the surface temperature of conventional double-glazed windows is only 9″C.
The use of solar energy in combination with internal heat, the source of which is gas or electric stove, incandescent lamps, human body, etc., helps save energy.
Significantly greater heat savings in the presence of double-glazed windows can be achieved by using heating system with electronic regulation.
Heating systems
What components of the heating system need to be modernized to make the house energy efficient?
For clarity, the heating system can be divided into five constituent elements: heat generator (for example, a heating boiler), heat distribution unit (pipelines with a circulation pump), devices for releasing heat into the room (heating radiators, “warm floor”, etc.), control and regulation devices, chimney.
Currently, the most effective in terms of energy savings are low-temperature boilers using water steam. Unlike traditional heating boilers, which operate at temperatures of 70-90°C, low-temperature boilers operate in the temperature range of 40-75°C.
Low-temperature heating system using water steam: 1 - low-temperature heating battery; 2 - condensate; 3 - exhaust gas.
The peculiarity of boilers using steam is that, compared to conventional low-temperature boilers, they produce more heat with less fuel consumption and, therefore, less harmful emissions.
Typically, water vapor produced when fuel is burned is lost along with the gases released into the atmosphere. In these same boilers, water vapor passes through a heat exchanger, where it gives off its heat, which is then returned to the heating system.
Low temperature boilers can also provide domestic water for your home.
Low temperature heating system requires the use of heating devices, the heat transfer surface of which is larger than that of regular batteries. Therefore, a “warm floor” with its extensive surface goes well with this system.
Heat for heating and domestic water heating is produced by solar collectors and a wood-burning stove.
Modern industry produces many mechanical and electronic devices management and regulation, allowing optimal energy consumption. One of them is an outside temperature sensor (usually on the northwest side of the house). It transmits temperature data to the control device, which, if necessary, turns on the burner, increasing the temperature at the inlet of the heating system. Temperature heating batteries support thermostats. These devices are installed both on the heating boiler (central) and in the rooms.
Diagram of a modern heating system: 1 - weather sensor; 2 - specified work program; 3 - central device; 4 - thermostat; 5 - thermostat valve; 6 - mixer with actuator motor; 7 - heating pump.
Time-programmable appliances lower the temperature at night or even during the day when the house is empty (on weekends or during vacations). However, you should not sharply reduce the temperature, otherwise, when it increases, condensation may form on the cooled surfaces. In addition, heating a very cold room will require more energy consumption.
Thus, only by properly insulating your house and equipping it with equipment that allows you to use heat economically will you become less dependent on energy prices. And most importantly, an energy-efficient house will always have a healthy microclimate and comfort.
Russia is a country with a cold climate, where average term The heating season is seven months. And due to the constant rise in energy prices, building a home with low energy consumption is becoming more relevant than ever
Russia is a country with a cold climate, where the average heating season is seven months. And due to the constant rise in energy prices, building a home with low energy consumption is becoming more relevant than ever.
Every day more and more people are thinking about using energy efficient technologies. And this is not surprising, because each of us wants to live in a warm and, most importantly, economical home.
1. An energy efficient home is...
What meaning do we put into the phrase “energy efficient house”?
According to the head of the TKDom company, Alexander Vodovozov, an energy-efficient house is a building in which all energy losses, as well as energy consumption, are minimized. The main principle of building an energy-efficient house is to achieve maximum tightness of the home, use energy-saving technologies and eliminate cold bridges.
In Russia, the main energy costs are for heating, so the main task is to prevent heat loss through the building envelope - floors, walls, windows, ceilings and roof. This can be achieved using modern frame construction technologies. Due to the use of insulation and special methods of covering the frame, the presence of cracks is completely eliminated.
Thus, to build an energy efficient house you need:
Build an insulated foundation. And in frame construction, such a foundation also plays the role of a heat accumulator;
Install a highly efficient ventilation system with a recuperator. Since 30-40% of heat is lost through ventilation, the use of such a system will significantly reduce energy consumption for heating the supply air;
Position living rooms in the southern part of the building. What will allow you to use solar energy as an additional source of heat;
Perform maximum insulation of enclosing structures. After all, it is through them that the main heat loss occurs.
But often, developers simply do not want to invest in additional insulation, believing that this will lead to an increase in the cost of the building being constructed. So is it profitable to build an energy efficient house?
Speaking in terms of numbers, building an energy-efficient house costs about 15% more than a conventional one, but it is 60-70% cheaper to operate.
We can say that building an energy-efficient house is a comprehensive measure that allows you to save your cash in foreseeable future.
2.The foundation “Insulated Swedish Plate” - as the basis of an energy-efficient house
There is an opinion that additional insulation of the foundation is a waste of money. But is this really so?
Thermal energy losses occur constantly; only the intensity differs depending on the type of structure. For example, the greatest heat flow passes through the upper roofing structures, which is related to the density of warm and cold air. Warm air strives to rise upward, at the same time dragging along with it thermal energy. There is also a large loss of heat through the foundation.
All heat losses can be divided into heat losses that can be prevented and those that can be slightly reduced! For example, heat loss through the foundation averages 10-15% of the total heat loss of the building. Therefore, the construction of an energy-efficient house must begin with the construction of an insulated foundation.
One of effective ways To reduce energy costs for heating a building is to build a house on a foundation of the “Insulated Swedish Plate” type. Extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose. When choosing insulation, you should pay attention to the thermal conductivity index. The smaller it is, the better, since you will need thinner layer of thermal insulation.
When installing energy-efficient slab foundations, you should also remember this important indicator- like the compressive strength of insulation. Since such foundations are insulated from below, the insulation must withstand the weight of the entire house, with all variable loads!
3.Choice optimal thickness insulation
Up to 20-30% of heat is lost through the walls. What thickness of insulation should be chosen to build an energy-efficient house?
First of all, the thickness of the insulation layer depends on the structure of the building. If with frame technology, for the Central region of Russia, the thermal insulation thickness recommended by standards is 150 mm, and the optimal thickness from the point of view of energy efficiency will be 250-300 mm, then when building a house from foam concrete, effective thickness will be 150-200 mm, with the standard 80 mm. For the roof, at least 250-300 mm of insulation should be used. In addition to the optimal thickness, when choosing insulation, it is necessary to take into account that thermal insulation is available in various brands for use in various building structures, where each type of product solves a specific problem and meets the relevant requirements.
Construction of an energy-efficient house requires a balance between the cost of materials and high-quality thermal insulation of walls and roof. Therefore, there is no need to increase the insulation layer by more than 30% of the recommended value. Otherwise, the estimate increases and the project becomes unprofitable.
4. The thicker the walls, the warmer the house?
When considering the energy efficiency of a private home, you need to think not only about reducing internal energy consumption, but also about additional methods of heat accumulation that will reduce heating costs. There is a misconception that the thicker the masonry of the wall of a house under construction, the warmer it will be, but is this really true?
There are principles and technologies that must be used in design and construction. And the energy efficiency of the house will primarily depend on the thickness of the insulation used.
So what principles and technologies should you still be guided by when building an energy-efficient house?
First of all, the developer must understand that the main principle of building an energy-efficient house is to save thermal energy. Modern technologies make it possible to reduce heat losses at home to the amount of internal radiation from people and electrical appliances. Things are somewhat more complicated with electricity and hot water supply. Their consumption, as a rule, cannot be greatly reduced, since they mainly depend on the habits of the owners and directly affect the comfort of living.
A potential customer must first order a project from a serious design organization with experience in designing energy-efficient houses;
Even at the design stage, it is necessary to provide for the use of modern types of insulation in the construction of the house. By this we provide a high value of resistance to heat transfer;
Since approximately 15-25% of heat is lost through windows, it is necessary to use glazing with triple-glazed windows with argon filling.
In order to save natural and energy resources, humanity has developed comprehensive measures to insulate buildings and bring the level of thermal insulation to a value close to absolute. This material will reveal the essence of a passive house as a modern and economical type of housing.
Concepts of passivity and energy efficiency
Our review will bypass the generally accepted list of advantages and technical indicators. For example, a building is considered energy efficient if its heat loss does not exceed 10 kWh per square meter during the year, but what should this tell the reader? If you count it, then in a year a small (up to 150 m2) house consumes approximately 1.5-2 MW of energy, which is comparable to the energy consumption of a regular cottage in one winter month. The same amount is consumed by 2-3 incandescent lamps of 100 W each, turned on constantly for one year, which is equivalent to 200 m 3 of natural gas.
Such low energy consumption makes it possible, in principle, to abandon the heating system in the house, using the heat generated by humans, animals and household appliances. If a house does not require targeted energy expenditure for the operation of heating systems (or requires a small minimum), such a house is called passive. In the same way, a house with very high heat losses, the need for which is replenished by its own power plant running on renewable energy sources, can be called passive.
So an energy-efficient house does not necessarily claim to be passive; the opposite is also true. A house that not only covers its own energy needs, but also transmits some type of energy to the public network is called active.
What is the main idea of a passive house?
All three of the above concepts are usually combined: a passive house has the most expanded set of measures to ensure energy autonomy. In the end, no one is interested in testing their home for years, achieving heat loss standards in order to receive an honorary title. It is important that the inside is dry, warm and comfortable.
There is an opinion that today any new building should be built using passive house technology, fortunately, there are technical solutions even for multi-storey buildings. This makes sense: the cost of maintaining a house during the period between renovations is usually even higher than the cost of construction.
A passive house, with a larger initial investment, requires practically no costs throughout its service life, which, moreover, exceeds the service life of conventional buildings due to the absolute protection of load-bearing and enclosing structures in combination with the most modern and technological solutions for construction and repair.
Home technical feature A passive house can be called a continuous loop of thermal insulation, from the foundation to the roof. This “thermos” retains heat well, but not all materials are suitable for its construction.
Materials for thermal insulation
Expanded polystyrene is not applicable in such volumes; it is flammable and toxic. In a number of projects this is solved by adding a fire-retardant layer near the load-bearing pillar and under facade finishing, which leads to an unjustified rise in price. Use of glass and mineral wool also doesn't solve the problem. Pests (insects and rodents) actively inhabit it, as well as expanded polystyrene, and the service life of cotton wool is 2-3 less than that of the passive house itself.
A material suitable for passive house purposes is foam glass. A brief summary of characteristics: the lowest thermal conductivity of known widely used materials, complete environmental friendliness due to the inertness of glass, simple processing and good gluing ability. The downside is the high price and complexity of production, but the material is definitely worth the money.
A less expensive material, but suitable for insulating a passive house, is polyurethane foam. Technically, such houses cannot be called passive; their heat loss is 30-50 kWh per square meter per year, but these figures are quite acceptable. Polyurethane can be installed as a sheet material, or applied using shotcrete plastering.
Roof and warm attic
Other key difference passive houses - the presence of an unheated attic or warm attic and high-quality roof insulation without cold bridges. With this approach, two temperature boundaries are identified: on the ceiling of the upper floor and in the roof itself. Thanks to the separation of the thermal protection, the formation of condensation in the roof insulation is guaranteed to be eliminated and heat loss is significantly reduced.
The ceiling of the upper floor is usually framed on wooden beams, the voids are filled with a layer of mineral wool medium density 20-25 cm thick. It is better to insulate the ceiling sheet materials with a cross-cellular frame and precise adjustment of insulation boards. All seams and joints are filled with special glue or polyurethane foam. Special attention is given to the installation of a protective belt in the place where the rafter system rests on the walls.
A warm attic is arranged according to the principle of recovery of the ventilation system. The exhaust ventilation ducts go directly into the sealed attic space, from where they are discharged through a single opening with forced outflow. Often this channel is equipped with a recuperation unit that transfers part of the heat from the exhaust air to the supply air.
Windows, doors and other leak points
With windows for a passive house, everything is simple: they must be of high quality and must be certified for use in the energy saving industry. Signs of a suitable product include double-glazed windows with two or more chambers filled with gas, low-emission glass of different thicknesses and a double connection of the double-glazed window to the profile, sealed with rubber tape. For doors, it is important to have a honeycomb filling and the presence of a double door around the entire perimeter. It is equally important to follow the rules for installation and protection of junction points.
A passive house has its own foundation design features. To protect the structure of concrete, it is hydrophobized by injection and additionally protected with an outer layer coating waterproofing. The insulation goes down to the entire depth of the foundation, so the ground floor becomes the second floor after warm attic buffer zone.
Energy supply of a passive house
Gas is usually not supplied to a passive house; a single-phase electrical network is completely sufficient for domestic purposes and heating. WITH electric heaters it’s simple: no matter how many kilowatts are invested in a house, so much remains in it; the efficiency is almost 99%, unlike gas boilers.
But electrical network as the only source of energy supply, it has a lot of disadvantages, mostly consisting of unreliable connection. Often, houses are supplied with a fairly complex electrical network, including an emergency generator with automatic start, or they use a battery bank or solar panels for backup power.
Heating water for household needs usually performed by solar collectors, mainly vacuum ones. At all autonomous sources energies are quite diverse, among the varieties you can choose the optimal solution for objects with different conditions.
