Planting blackberries in spring and autumn - with health benefits! Formation of an upright bush. Mistakes or Mistakes We Make

Very often, novice gardeners choose the wrong place and plant blackberries. Because of this, even with proper care, yield problems can occur. That is why the first thing we need to do is to determine the right place on the site for planting bushes. Blackberries grow best in a well-lit area with light soil. If your site is characterized by sandy soil, then you can simply add 5 liters of manure humus under each bush. With loamy soils, dug sand is introduced along with humus.

It is very important to properly plant bushes. So, it is preferable to plant plants trench way, as this will better retain moisture at the roots and facilitate the work of sheltering the bushes in winter. The depth of the trench should be about 20 cm, width - 40-50 cm. We mulch the bottom of the trench with sawdust or straw, which will lead to an improvement in the microclimate at the root system. After planting the bushes, we fill the trench with earth, and we strengthen the edges (sides) of the trench wooden slats or stones, which will avoid soil erosion when watering.

Garden blackberry - spring care for a delicious harvest

Blackberry care includes many activities, but the main ones are pruning and fertilizing shrubs. Work in the garden in the spring begins with the removal of diseased and frozen branches. If the stems were damaged after frost, they also need to be cut. But here it is important to remove the shoots to the first bud that has been preserved and formed over the winter, otherwise the growth of the shrub can be slowed down. By the way, pruning blackberries and have a lot in common, and therefore it will be much easier for people growing raspberries to understand the principle of working with blackberries.

At the end of April, they begin to form new shoots - no more than 8 young branches should be left on one bush. In this case, absolutely all new shoots should be cut when they have reached 10 cm.

Important: not all gardeners know that with the help of tweezing (removing the top of the branches), you can significantly increase the yield.

Once every few years, bushes with berries are fed with compost or manure. To do this, you must first loosen the soil, add manure mixed with the ground (for 1 square meter you need about 5 kg of manure). We must not forget about the use of mineral fertilizers. So, nitrophoska is suitable for feeding blackberries (about 20 g per 1 square meter).

Here you need to remember that you should be careful with nitrogen fertilizers - an excess of nitrogen will lead to a decrease in the winter hardiness of the plant and can cause a disease such as gray rot. After you have applied fertilizer, the bushes should be watered (2-3 buckets of water are needed per plant), as well as loosen the soil and remove weeds.

There are a number of activities that must be performed so that the blackberry gives good harvest. In fact, caring for this plant does not seem difficult, but a few important recommendations from experts should be remembered.

• Every plant needs watering. Blackberries should be watered abundantly with the growth of young shoots, fruit set and berry ripening. To keep moisture in the soil, it is advisable to mulch the bushes with compost.
• The formation of blackberry bushes is also one of the stages of care. prune the bushes better in autumn, however, the removal of diseased shoots and the formation of bushes begin in April.
• It should be noted that blackberry fertilizer needs to be changed annually. So, in the first year we feed blackberries with organic matter, in the second - mineral supplements etc.
• It will be good if you arrange trellises to support the shoots.

Knowing how to care for garden blackberries, you can not worry about the quality and quantity of the crop - you are provided with delicious berries in large quantities.

Growing blackberries is not as common among summer residents as growing, for example, raspberries or currants. But this berry deserves attention, but in order to get a decent harvest, you need to know some of the nuances. Blackberry garden planting and care, advice from gardeners on growing this shrub, video and photo materials are useful for everyone. The first thing to be said is that in middle lane, only a few types of blackberries are suitable for cultivation, for example: gray blackberries, and blueberries. This is usually wild plant, poorly cultivated in European countries, it grows best in North and Central America.

The blackberry is a bushy plant that defends itself with sharp thorns. Fortunately, modern technologies allowed breeders to achieve the emergence of new hybrid varieties without thorns, moreover, more fertile. A remarkable fact will be the fact that these shrubs are practically not amenable to the harmful effects of pests and diseases. With good support, the bushes grow to incredible sizes, at least 190 centimeters high.

Bushes are planted in April or May, the main condition will be the readiness and sufficient warming of the soil. Landing begins with the choice of a site, a place closed from the wind and a bright and even place is well suited. The best soil for blackberries it is considered: loam and sandy loam soil. But still, before planting seedlings, the soil must be prepared, all weeds must be eradicated, and the soil must be disinfected. After that, weakly fertile soil is enriched with organic fertilizers, and superphosphates, potassium sulfate is also very carefully and dosed.

Video planting blackberries:

It is best to buy planting material in specialized stores, the choice on the market is always scarce, and they can slip anything on you. It is best to take one-year-old seedlings with a well-developed root system. Also, Special attention pay attention to the stems, they should be quite large (more than 5 mm in diameter). They plant a bush about 1 meter from other plants, the bush will take this space in the future.

There are two main methods of planting this plant:

• Planting blackberries in a bush way. It is necessary to dig a hole, and place in it a couple - three seedlings, with weak and undeveloped shoots.
• Ribbons. With such a planting, several seedlings are planted in different holes, at a distance of 1 meter from each other.

Whatever method you choose, but before planting, the roots are straightened, a bush is planted, and the ground is covered with top dressing. Having fallen asleep new bushes, the earth around is watered and compacted. Watering is plentiful, about 5 liters of water is poured onto one blackberry bush. Then we wait until the moisture is absorbed, and we mulch the soil with manure.

How to care for blackberries:

Ha, this plant will have to be constantly looked after, the bush needs regular watering, as well as loosening the soil. It is also necessary to regularly carry out top dressing, and preventive measures. Of course, blackberries need to be trimmed. In the video below, you will see how

Blackberry pruning in spring video diagram:

Care for blackberry bushes in the spring.

After the snow has melted, it's time to start gardening. As we said above, blackberries need support, for successful growth and development, and spring is the time to establish this support. If you have several bushes growing in one row, then you need two such trellises, about two meters high, at the beginning of the row and at the end, and a wire is pulled between them, at three levels: 50 cm, 125 cm, and 180 cm.

Please note that if you grow directly tall varieties, then you should not wait for the harvest in the first year. And so that this picture does not repeat itself in the next season, young shoots are pinched at a height of 100 - 120 cm, the top is cut off.

The first month and a half, caring for young seedlings is especially important, during this period you need to carefully deal with weeds, and carry out regular watering in case of dry weather.

It is impossible to water blackberries with cold water; they are watered either with rain or standing in the sun.

Top dressing is done at the same time as, or currant, others garden shrubs. Nitrogen is important for blackberries, therefore, those containing this element organic fertilizers should pay attention first.

Blackberry propagation:

• The top of the bush. Shoots that weave simply bend to the ground, and sprinkle with earth, this is a spring breeding method.
• The outlet is horizontal. They take a strong enough shoot and put it on the ground completely, and sprinkle it with earth. New bushes are formed in it, they are cut and transplanted, each in a separate place.
• root method. New formations appear near the bush, they are dug up and transplanted to a new place. The shoots must be at least 10 cm high.

In autumn, blackberries are prepared for winter. To do this, the bushes are cut, and the soil is mulched with peat or sawdust. In order to prevent the plant is sprayed with special preparations.

Shelter of garden blackberries for the winter, video:

Blackberry garden planting and care, it is important, otherwise you will not be able to get a decent harvest of these berries, but you will be content with pure decorative elements. Timely pruning, soil mulching, as well as the correct watering regimen, sheltering bushes for the winter will allow you to get all the advantages of this plant in full. We wish you good luck in this hard work, it is not only the pleasure of physical labor, but also obtaining such pleasant results at the end of the season!

You will also be interested

Why is it very rare to find a culture like blackberries in our gardens? Growing it is not that difficult. In any case, it is not more difficult than raspberries or currants with gooseberries. And the yield is even higher. It's time to get to know her better.

blackberry photography

Its agricultural technology is in many ways similar to the recommendations for growing raspberries, especially with regard to shaping, pruning, and planting. But there are some features that are unique to black berry. First of all, it is worth saying that there are two large varieties of garden blackberries. Namely:

• dewdrop;
• Kumanika.

Rosyanika is called a creeping form, the lashes of which grow up to ten meters. Very flexible, easy to cover for the winter. They do not give root offspring, propagate by cuttings or rooting layering. The dewberry is more productive, the berries are larger than the other form.

Video about growing blackberries

Kumanika grows like a bush with branches of two meters. Less bending, less productive, but more compact. Requires less attention to shaping. Well propagated by root offspring. The farming technique of kumanika is more similar to that of raspberry than dewberry.

Now it is worth dwelling in more detail on the preparation of the landing site, the substrate. Talk about the landing itself summer care, watering, fertilizing, consider shaping, winter shelter, pest control.

Landing

The best time to plant is mid to late spring. Blackberry is a moisture-loving and heat-loving crop. Choose a sunny place for planting on the site, protected from the prevailing winds in your area. Blackberry belongs to the long-lived shrubs. The life of one plant can reach thirty years. At good care productivity will not only not fall, but also grow for a long time. So the question of the location of the future plantation should be approached as seriously as possible.

It is best to plant bushes in rows in a north-south direction. Then they will be illuminated by the sun evenly from all sides. Take care to create trellises along the blackberry rows. Seedlings will feel good in small depths, so it is reasonable to dig a trench for planting.

In the photo planting blackberries

Based on the size of the blackberry plantation, we set the length of the trench. The distance between the bushes should be about two meters for the bramble and at least three meters for the dewberry. If planting in more than one row, then keep the width between them two meters. The width of the trench is 40-50 centimeters, the depth is the same half a meter. You lay the excavated earth with a shaft from the side of the trellis. Strengthen the walls from shedding by digging in boards or pieces of slate. The bottom can be covered with a layer of fine gravel or sand. This improves the permeability of the soil. From above, pour a layer of leaf or meadow humus mixed with manure.

It is best to use rotted horse manure - this is the most favorable environment for the growth of berry bushes.

To subsequently facilitate future watering, before falling asleep with earth in the center of the trench, lay a perforated hose or drip irrigation system- both irrigation tapes and irrigation pipes. At the site of the future landing, we pour earthen rollers. We maintain a young blackberry in a solution of a root formation stimulator: heteroauxin, epine, root. We put the seedlings, spreading the roots along the cone of the shaft. We tilt them in the direction of the trellis. Now we fill them with the remaining soil.

You can not deepen the root neck - the place where the roots pass into the ground part of the plant.

For better rooting, you can cover the soil with a transparent film. Under it, the temperature of the soil will be higher than atmospheric - good conditions for root growth. However, if worth hot weather, then you just need to hide the landing from the sun with a covering material. Generally, the best time for landing - cloudy moderately cool weather.

Watering and fertilizing

Blackberry is demanding on moisture, but it does not tolerate excessive waterlogging, like the same raspberries. If you initially installed an irrigation system in the trench, then watering becomes nowhere easier. Just connect it to the garden water supply and that's it.

If you prefer to water your blackberries by hand, it's best to do so regularly, pouring a few buckets of water into the bushes' trench each week. Hot summer weather requires an increase in the frequency of watering. To avoid moisture loss from the surface of the earth, mulch with a large layer of straw, last year's grass (it is better to use meadow or lawn) or sawdust hardwood. Mulching generally improves the microclimate of your blackberry bushes. soil due to frequent watering does not compact, air is given the opportunity to penetrate to the roots. Improves digestibility nutrients. The result is an increase in productivity.

From spring to mid-summer, it is important to stimulate the growth of green shoots. For these purposes, we increase the share of nitrogen fertilizers among top dressings. We fertilize with phosphates a little less than with nitrogen. Potash fertilizers are now ineffective. You can not use them, or take the minimum concentration.

June-July - the time of active flowering, tying berries. Now it is very important to help the blackberry lashes with the harvest. Phosphates work very well for this purpose. Nitrogen top dressing is also important now, but not to the same extent as in spring. Potash fertilizers are used in the same way as nitrogen fertilizers, that is, in moderation.

From the end of summer until frost, the primary task, in addition to ripening the crop, is preparing the bush for wintering. Summer shoots should ripen, which are now lignified. The roots also store up nutrients for the winter. Now the most important potash top dressing. Phosphorus is now required by blackberries much less. Nitrogen is completely excluded. Excessive growth of greenery is now useless.

In addition to the main top dressing, black berries need microelements such as selenium, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, iron, copper, etc. It is difficult to notice the benefits of their presence, they have little effect on the strength of growth, productivity, and maturity. But the deficiency of one or more of them is expressed by one or another disease. Plant immunity directly depends on microelements. Proper fertilizer with microelements answers the question of how to grow blackberries in the country, protect them from diseases without resorting to various pesticides.

Actively use organic fertilizers, the berry will immediately respond with a significant increase in yield. It is recommended to use effective microorganisms, as well as a complex of humic acids. These top dressings contribute to the colonization of the irrigated areas with important bacteria that absorb mineral compounds into a form that is digestible for the roots. The most high-quality drugs in this category are Japanese and Siberian.

Blackberry lashes can stretch for 5-6 meters. Naturally, the formation of such a green hair is necessary. Otherwise, all the forces of the bush will go into the tops, leaving no attention to fruiting. To prevent the whips from dragging along the ground, trellises are needed. We dig along the landing trenches supporting pillars. We choose such a length that, being dug in, they keep the future load of green mass and crops well, but at the same time they are not lower than two meters. Between the posts we stretch the wire every half a meter, starting from the ground.

The basic principle of blackberry formation is that we always grow two types of shoots on one bush. The first is fruit-bearing biennial shoots that matured last summer and overwintered. They carry flower buds. Now they are blooming and bearing fruit. The second type is green substitute shoots. This summer they ripen, and next fall they will bring a harvest. Thus, all shoots older than two years are cut out. In autumn, those lashes from which we picked berries are removed in order to avoid thickening the bush.

How many shoots should be left for one blackberry bush? Seedlings of the first year of growth are left with 3-4 branches. Next summer they will bring the first harvest. For two-year-olds and further, we leave 5-6 substitute shoots. That is, at the same time there should be about 10-12 lashes on the bush. Half of them - shoots of the first year, the other half - the second.

Pictured is a blackberry pruning

Now about how to grow bushy blackberries on a trellis. In the first summer after planting kumanika, we distribute 3-4 selected vigorous shoots close to the soil, tying them by the bottom wire, that is, only half a meter above the ground. Top part the trellis is still empty. This is due to the fact that the lignified lashes of the brambles do not bend as well as those of the dewberry. When laying for winter storage, they can break off, which of course is undesirable. The following spring, they gently rise from the ground, tied to the upper wires of the trellis. We tie the growing green shoots to the lower tier on both sides of the bush. Thus we get a fan. In autumn, we cut off vertically grown lashes that have brought the harvest. Ripe substitute shoots that have grown squat will not be difficult to put in winter storage.

Long lashes of dewdrops of the first year of growth are allowed to grow on opposite sides of the root. For example, two to the right, two to the left. When they reach the top of the trellis, wrap them down from the opposite side. Upon reaching the lower tier of the trellis, turn up. That is, we wind long lashes of dewdrops on a trellis. In autumn there will be more fuss about unwinding, but since its whips are very flexible, this will not be difficult. After hibernation we take out the branches, wind them on one side of the root, for example, to the right. Then, to the left, let green substitute shoots grow.

Now everything is simple. On one side we have fruit-bearing branches, another - summer ripe greens. In autumn, we clean up everything that has yielded a crop. That is, all right side. We unwind the left one, put it in storage. Next year, for example, you can grow young lashes to the right, and old lashes to the left, alternating the fruitful side of the trellis on the growth side. Here, in fact, the whole formation. Follow it and your bushes will be constantly updated, long years bringing steadily high yields. Indeed, from thickening, the berries become smaller, the lashes receive less sun, the wood does not ripen, and the immunity of the plant is weakened.

Pictured is a blackberry bush

winter shelter

How to grow garden blackberries in our climate, because it is more thermophilic than wild? You need to take care of winter shelter. After removing from the trellis, we lay the lashes along the trenches, first on the bottom of which you can lay boards or pegs. Thus, the lashes will be stored on a hill from the soil. So you will avoid getting wet or rotting bushes. In addition, put poison for mice under the whips. These rodents are very fond of feasting on blackberries in winter, even those of its forms that have thorns.

Kumanik will have to be pressed to the ground in several places, pinned with wire arcs. The dewberry is simply rolled up and folded along the trench. Top with non-woven covering material. We pour a layer of sawdust or straw on it.

Blackberry care video

It is important to cover when cold daily temperatures have already been established. In the spring we also open the bushes when they pass extreme cold. Above the trenches, you can install a temporary cover with a non-woven fabric on the arcs. After they pass spring frosts we raise the whips to the trellises.

What you need to know to increase the yield of blackberries

• cultivation is better in trenches, more fertilizers are supplied, the soil always remains more moist;
• do not spare organic fertilizers, the more manure humus under the roots, the larger the berries;
• cut the bushes, properly loading them. Instances with a thickened crown give thin lashes, small berries, ripen little, get sick more, often freeze out in winter;
• cover blackberries for the winter competently, avoiding dampening, burning out, freezing bushes.

Blackberries are not yet as popular among Russian gardeners as raspberries. But over the years, its popularity has been growing thanks to the delicious berries that are literally strewn with the whole plant. In addition, when grown on a trellis, it creates a beautiful decorative hedge all strewn small flowers. In the article, we will consider the basic rules for growing blackberries and caring for them.

• Blackberry is a spreading subshrub with long erect or creeping shoots of the Rosaceae family, growing throughout the northern hemisphere. This is a plant with a powerful root system, which is able to penetrate deep into the soil, so that it does not freeze out even in severe frosts. Also, due to the deep location of the main root, blackberries can easily tolerate short-term droughts.

• The life of the stems is two years. In the first year, the branches grow back, and in the second they enter the fruiting stage, after which they die. Bushes can grow up to 15 years in one place, after which they must be removed. Shoots and stems have sharp thorns. Blackberry blooms with white flowers, up to 3 cm in diameter, the flowers are bisexual and self-pollinating.
• It bears fruit with large round or cone-shaped berries, which are called polydrupes. Berries in the stage of full ripening have a rich black color, but breeders breed yellow-fruited and red-fruited varieties. Blackberry is considered the record holder for fruiting among berry crops, so from one adult bush you can get up to 25 kg of berries per season.

• Bushes grown in sunny areas have a sweeter berry than those grown in shade and partial shade. Gardeners are very fond of blackberries because of the rich content of various beneficial elements in its fruits. The berries contain vitamins B, C, A, P, E, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fiber, organic acids and many micro and macro elements. The plant is valued not only for its fruits, but also for its leaves, which are consumed as a tea.

Place for planting blackberries

• Blackberries prefer to grow in sunny open places. In low light, the shoots stretch out strongly, the ovaries wither, and the leaves fall off. ahead of schedule. In nature, the plant grows in moist forests, along the banks of small reservoirs. So optimal conditions for growing blackberries in gardens is considered temperate climate, fertile soil with a constant level of humidity and good drainage, as well as the presence of protection from strong winds.
• The site for the plantation should be flat or located on a southern slope. Blackberries should not be grown on carbonate soils, as this soil does not contain elements important for its growth (in particular, iron and magnesium).
• The root system of bushes is quite powerful and consists of a thick central root and few adnexal roots. The main root in creeping varieties can go 150 cm deep, and in erect varieties up to 70 cm, adventitious roots of almost all varieties spread close to the soil surface (up to 40 cm) within a radius of 50 cm. This feature should be borne in mind when preparing a place for planting .
• The best predecessors are cereals and legumes, blackberries planted after nightshade (tomatoes, potatoes) feel bad.

Blackberry propagation

In summer practice, several methods of propagating blackberries are used.

• Apical layering. This method is well suited for the propagation of creeping varieties. In July-August, grooves up to 30 cm deep are made next to the mother bushes and the non-lignified tops of the stems are laid in them, after which they are sprinkled with earth. Before winter, the shoots should take root, but not germinate. In spring, seedlings can be separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.

• Seeds. Most cultivars during seed propagation are able to preserve maternal traits to the maximum extent. Seeds are collected at the stage of full ripeness and placed in a cool place for stratification for the winter. At the beginning of March, the seed material is taken out, soaked for several days in melt water or in any growth stimulator, and then planted in boxes to a depth of 8 mm. Crops are regularly watered warm water and kept at 20°C. Plant seedlings in open ground can be after the appearance of 4 true leaves. Plants that have grown stronger by autumn are recommended to be transplanted to a permanent place. Blackberries grown in this way begin to bear fruit for 4 years.
• Root cuttings. In September-October, the bush is completely dug up and all shoots are cut, and root system cut into cuttings (up to 7 cm long and up to 1 cm thick). The prepared material is stored in a cool place, in wet peat or sand. In the spring, as soon as the earth warms up, grooves are cut to a depth of 15 cm and root segments are placed there, every 20 cm. Planting material is covered with loose earth and watered abundantly. During the summer, regular watering, weeding and loosening are carried out. Will appear in autumn strong seedlings. Up to 300 new plants are obtained from one adult mother bush. When propagating thornless varieties, bushes with thorns grow, so this method is not suitable for them.
• Root offspring. Each blackberry bush is capable of annually producing up to 20 young shoots from the root. In May-June, when the stems reach 15 cm, strong, healthy shoots are selected and carefully separated from the main bush, after which they are immediately transplanted to a place of constant growth. This operation can be performed in the fall, but such bushes do not always successfully overwinter.

• By dividing the bush. This method used in cases where the blackberry does not give shoots. The bush is dug up and divided into 5-6 parts, 2-3 strong young shoots are left in each. The resulting material is planted in a permanent place. It is best to divide the bush in early autumn, so that it has time to get stronger by winter.

Blackberry planting and care

Soil preparation

The ideal soil mixture for planting blackberries is loose sandy loam or well-drained loam rich in humus. You can prepare the soil yourself from the following components (based on 1 bush):

• rotted manure or mature compost - 20 l;
• alumina - 40 l;
• potash fertilizer - 70 ml;
• superphosphate - 100 ml.

Instead of potash fertilizer, you can use wood ash, which, in addition to potassium, contains calcium and phosphorus, as well as a number of useful trace elements - manganese, iron, boron and molybdenum.

planting blackberries

• The optimal time for planting blackberries is considered to be the spring period before sap flow, April or early May. Varieties with a good indicator frost resistance it is allowed to plant in the fall, before the onset of frost. Choose strong seedlings with one or two stems and a developed root system. All dried or broken branches are removed. The distance between the bushes is at least 150-200 cm, it is better to leave more so that when harvesting the approach to blackberries is free, in addition, such a measure will provide the plants with the proper amount of sunlight.
• The planting hole is dug up to 40-50 cm deep, the width will depend on the seedling root system, which should fit freely in the hole (about 30 cm). Drainage is laid at the bottom and 2/3 of the previously prepared soil mixture is covered. It is desirable that the soil be moist, if it is dry, then 5-10 liters of water are poured into the pit. Before planting, the roots are slightly cut, by 1-2 cm. The seedling is placed so that the root neck is flush with the soil surface or a little deeper.
• The roots are covered with earth, which must be lightly tamped. To fill all the voids formed with soil, the seedling is slightly shaken. Leave small rims around the hole to keep water from running out when watering. It is not recommended to water the blackberries immediately, it is better to do this a week after planting, then the soil is mulched with humus or rotted sawdust.
• After a couple of weeks, the seedlings are pruned, leaving shoots up to 25 cm. In the first year, the plants need constant care, weekly watering, weeding and loosening.

blackberry care

• It is demanding to care, because if the blackberry is grown incorrectly, not only its deterioration is possible. appearance but also a significant reduction in productivity.
• Blackberries are considered warm and light-loving plant. Prefers soil with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. The soil for its planting should not be hard, and there should be no weeds between the rows. During the period mass flowering it is important that the earth is moist, but not to allow stagnant water, as the blackberry does not tolerate flooded and wetlands.
• After watering or rain, the soil must be loosened to a depth of 8 cm, while being careful not to damage the small roots, the aisles are mulched with any loose organic matter. If the blackberry grows on damp, poorly drained soil, then mulching is not recommended.

Bush formation

• For the full development of blackberries, regular pruning of the stems is necessary. This procedure is carried out twice a year - in spring and autumn. Blackberry stalks are quite flexible, so shaping should not be a big deal, but still, you should take into account the presence of sharp spikes and carry out all work with gloves.

Tip: Blackberry bushes are planted at a distance of 1.5 m to 5 m (depending on the variety). It is necessary to observe such a distance for the normal further development of the plant, densely planted bushes prevent each other from growing, in addition, this will make it difficult to care for them and harvest.

• In the first year, they begin to form a future blackberry plantation, distributing young shoots in the right direction.

The bush is formed in several ways:

• in a fan shape - separating fruit-bearing shoots and young shoots;
• in rope form - vertical placement of shoots on trellises;
• in the form of weaving - wrapping the trellises around the shoots, as if braiding them;
• in the bush form - in the center of the bush there is a support around which the plant is formed.

Tip: erect blackberry varieties are usually grown on trellises. For their device, it is necessary to install supports up to 2 m high, every 5-10 m. 2-4 wires or twine are pulled onto the support poles every 30-60 cm. Blackberry branches will be tied onto this wire.

• As a rule, in the second year the bushes begin to bear fruit. Berries appear on last year's side shoots. New young shoots should be oriented in the direction of growth of the main bush and slightly separated from the fruiting branches. After harvesting, the fruiting stems are completely cut out, replacing them with young shoots.
• To get a bountiful harvest, pinch the tops of the bushes twice a year (in May and July), this procedure will lead to active branching. After the shoot reaches a height of 130-180 cm, it is cut by 8-12 cm. At the same time, only strong side shoots and the rest are removed. The inflorescences that appeared in the first year after planting are best cut off so that the bushes gain strength and bring them next year. bountiful harvest.

Double pruning blackberry

• They begin to cut out old shoots at the end of summer, having harvested, as this, firstly, will help increase fruiting by next year, and secondly, the branches at this time are still green and can be easily pruned. The cut shoots must be burned, and in no case should they be left near blackberry plantings, otherwise this will lead to the reproduction of pests.
• The formed bush has 5-8 strong stems; annually in the spring, excess young shoots are cut out, leaving strong shoots for replacement. If the overwintered shoots were damaged, then they must be cut to a healthy place.

Watering

• It is believed that the blackberry is drought-resistant, but still, it is a moisture-loving plant, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out, especially during the ripening of the berries. Severely affected by long-term drought above-ground part plants, young shoots do not have time to grow properly, the already laid ovaries begin to crumble, and the existing berries dry out and fall off.
• In addition to constant soil moisture, blackberries also require a certain humidity, so during a long drought, it is worth spraying the bushes in the evening.
• Young bushes in the first year after planting must be watered, keeping the soil moist. Watering is done only with warm settled water. drip method. By the end of summer, watering is limited, and late autumn up to 30 liters of water are poured under each bush so that the blackberries do not freeze in the winter.

Fertilizer

• Like any garden culture, blackberries need a balanced diet. Increased nutrient intake is observed in the phase of active growth, during periods of flowering and berry formation. It's around May-July. At this time, the bushes are fed with mineral fertilizers. But do not overfeed the plant, as this can adversely affect the condition of the bushes and yields.
• During flowering, blackberries require potassium, so any potash fertilizer should be applied, or the bushes should be watered with an ash solution (200 g of ash per 10 liters of water). During the period of pouring berries produce foliar top dressing complex mineral fertilizer, sprayed over the leaf with a solution with the addition of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Any mineral fertilizers applied to the soil only after it has been moistened.

• Blackberry bushes grow in one place for 10-15 years, so it is important for 3-4 years after planting to annually apply organic fertilizers under the plants, such as rotted manure, peat, sawdust or compost, and also water during flowering with diluted chicken droppings.

• Organics are usually applied under autumn digging. For this, the aisles are dug up for 1 sq.m. bring up to 5 kg of manure, mixing it with superphosphate (30 g) and potassium sulfate (40 g). In the spring, as soon as the first buds appear, blackberries are fed with any nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium nitrate or urea). At the end of summer, mineral fertilizers should not be applied, as this will lead to active growth plants, which means that the bushes will not be able to properly prepare for winter.

Preparing for winter

• Many gardeners prefer to leave the shoots that bear fruit for the winter, believing that they will help protect young stems from winter freezing. But do not forget that the longer the shoots remain on the bush, the more they consume nutrients, which means they weaken the plant.
• To prepare young shoots for wintering, they should be untied from the support and bent to the ground, so that the snow cap does not break fragile branches. Varieties that do not tolerate frost must be covered with spruce or pine spruce branches or wrapped with covering material. Frost-resistant varieties do not have to be covered for the winter, it is enough to cut the branches to a height of 120-170 cm.

• In the spring, the blackberry must be opened so that it does not rot and does not begin to rot, this must be done before the buds open. Then it should be carefully straightened, and then re-tied to the trellis. If the blackberry was laid along with the trellis, then the structure is lifted and strengthened on the supporting pillars.

Diseases and pests

In order to regularly receive a bountiful harvest, it is necessary to monitor the health of the blackberry bushes, to prevent the presence of weeds in the aisle, long standing water or prolonged drought. If the first signs of the disease appear, then they immediately begin treatment in order to prevent mass infection.

Main h Blackberry diseases are considered to be the following:

• Anthracnose- a disease that affects berries manifests itself from the end of spring, outwardly looks like uneven ripening of fruits, spraying the affected bushes with Bordeaux liquid is among the control measures.
• Rust- a disease that affects young shoots and leaves, looks like brown spots, reduces yield by up to 60%, spraying is a control measure blue vitriol and destruction of affected plants.

Pests that damage blackberry bushes and berries:

• blackberry mite affects the leaves, which leads to a decrease in yield, control measures include spraying with a solution of karbafos.
• Medvedka affects the root system of the blackberry, the drugs "Matador" or "Prestige" help to cope with it.
• Weevil damages buds, hibernates in fallen leaves, spraying with a solution of chlorophos helps against it.

A number of rules should be observed in the fight against pests and diseases:

• Chemical preparations can not be used during the harvest and pouring berries.
• Fungal diseases are treated in early spring, for which the bushes are sprayed with copper-containing preparations or Bordeaux liquid.
• Biological products are used to control pests. With regular inspection of plantings, insects are quite easy to notice in the early stages of their distribution, which means that it is possible to collect them manually.
• Infected stems and leaves are removed immediately after detection, and in autumn it is advisable to collect fallen leaves and burn them.
• To destroy the larvae of insects wintering in the soil, in late autumn it is necessary to dig aisles.

Nutrient deficiency

With a lack of minerals, the plants look weakened, and the yield can be reduced by up to 60%.

External manifestation of a lack of trace elements:

• nitrogen - slow stem growth, berry deformation, brittle shoots;
• boron - brittle shoots, few ovaries, small berries;
• iron - leaves turn yellow or turn pale;
• potassium - leaves of a pale blue hue, with a brown rim, the berries ripen unevenly;
• calcium - young leaves turn yellow, apical buds dry up, the ovary falls off;
• magnesium - premature reddening of the leaves and their fall;
• manganese - the veins of the leaves first turn yellow, and then acquire a reddish tint, after which they die off;
• copper - bones disappear from the berries, the growth of shoots slows down;
• molybdenum - spots appear on the sheet, the veins turn pale, and then the leaves curl and dry out;
• phosphorus - slow development of bushes and fading of leaves, early leaf fall;
• zinc - deformation of berries and leaves, the tips of the shoots become brown, the fruits become smaller.

Popular varieties of blackberries

Blackberries can be grown on personal plot as cultural or ornamental plant. In nature, there are two main types of it, from which breeders have bred more than 300 different hybrids.

• Kumanika- a straight-growing shrub, with powerful shoots covered with thorns, the mass of berries reaches 4 g. A fairly frost-resistant species, with a large number of root shoots.

• Rosyanika- creeping shrub, with long shoots, entirely covered with thorns, the mass of berries reaches 12 g. A non-frost-resistant species that does not give root shoots and propagates by apical cuttings.

In addition, there is also a semi-creeping blackberry, the stems of which do not have thorns, and the berries reach a mass of up to 6 g; such blackberries can be propagated both by root shoots and with the help of apical shoots.

From these main species, almost all famous varieties, the most fruitful and least whimsical are:

• Thornfree- a semi-spreading thornless bush, the stems of which can grow up to 3 m, the variety withstands slight frosts down to -18 degrees and prolonged drought, the yield is high (up to 8 kg per bush), fruit ripening dates July-August, berry weight up to 5 g;

• El Dorado- upright bush, stems covered with non-rigid thorns, early ripe variety, with a mass of berries up to 10 g, resistant to rust;
• abundant- late-ripening variety, average yield (from a bush up to 4 kg), practically does not give root offspring, in one place without reducing fruiting it can grow up to 15 years, it is frost-resistant.

Photo blackberry varieties Abundant

A good harvest of garden blackberries depends on many factors, but by providing the plants with proper care, you can always be sure of the regular and abundant fruiting of the bushes, and if you select varieties according to their ripening time, then delicious berries will be on the table from late June to early October.

Blackberries are often confused with another member of the same family (Rosaceae) - raspberries. Behind last years many varieties and hybrids have appeared, some of which are derived from raspberries, so it is not surprising that an ignorant person can make a mistake in identifying a plant.

Semi-shrub with succulent and delicious berries it is not too picky about the soil, but it needs lighting. Blackberries should be planted in sunny areas. Plant care consists of three main activities:

• Watering;
• top dressing;
• Pruning.

In one place, the bush can bear fruit for up to 15 years. Reproduction occurs by cuttings and root offspring.

There are two types of blackberries. This division is conditional and is based on how the shoots behave.

If the blackberry has the shape of a bush with erect shoots, then this is a kumanika. A plant with creeping stems is a dewberry.

As a result of crossing these two types, semi-creeping varieties are bred. Upright varieties do not differ large berry, whereas in dewberry, the weight of a berry can reach 15 g.

Growing blackberries is no more difficult than others. berry bushes. Nevertheless, it is not often possible to meet her on the sites of our summer residents. If raspberries, gooseberries and currants are found in almost every garden, then real enthusiasts start this culture. In terms of yield, it surpasses popular shrubs. Blackberries begin to bloom in May. Depending on the variety, ripening can be expected by early August.

The stages of planting and forming a bush have much in common with raspberry farming, but here you need to understand that different types requires different care. First let's talk about general recommendations on planting and care, and then we will dwell on the features of reproduction of each form.

Landing and care

Planting blackberries begins in mid-spring. It depends on the geographical location and weather conditions. In some regions, it is better to postpone planting until the end of May. Regardless of the shape, blackberries love two things: moisture and warmth, so they are planted where there is the most sun. The site must be protected from the influence of winds.

Among shrubs, this culture is considered a long-liver. With good agricultural technology, it can bear fruit for more than 15 years. Amateur gardeners who share their experience on how to grow blackberries say that 20 years is not the limit for her. If everything is done correctly, a responsible approach to the choice of a place for a plantation, and all necessary measures are taken on time, the blackberry crop will grow from year to year.

The correct planting pattern is to arrange the rows in a sunny area in a north-south direction. This will provide good lighting the entire bush throughout the day. It is desirable to put trellises along the rows of blackberries.

1. To facilitate watering and root dressing, trenches are prepared for seedlings. In such small recesses, they will feel good.
2. The width of the groove for planting blackberries should be at least 0.4 m. The depth is the same.
3. The distances between plants and between rows are made taking into account the length of the shoots of one or another form of blackberry. For dewberries, it will be at least 3 m, for kumaniki a little less - about 2 m.

If you are planning to use drip irrigation, then you need to lay the hoses just at the stage of planting the bushes. In areas with stagnant water, drainage is poured onto the bottom of the prepared trench. It can be sand or fine gravel. To increase fertility, add humus to the soil.

All berry crops respond well to . When adding it to the soil, pay attention to the fact that it must be rotted. From the side of the trellis, a small comb should be poured along the edge of the groove. We put seedlings or cuttings so that they lie on this ridge. Gently straighten the roots and cover the seedling with earth.

• Kornevin;
• Appin.

If the spring promises to be cold, the soil is covered with a film. It will keep the roots warm. In dry May, the task is different - to cover the seedlings from the sun. To do this, use the mulching material. It is better to plant blackberries on a non-hot cloudy day.

cultivation

Despite the fact that the culture is demanding on moisture, excessive moisture is no less dangerous for it than lack of watering. Blackberries should be watered regularly. Usually weekly watering is sufficient. Several buckets of water are poured into the groove or the irrigation system laid down during planting is connected.

Mulching significantly reduces the frequency of watering. For blackberries, this agricultural technique is almost mandatory. In dry regions, mulch is the only way to avoid moisture loss. As a mulching material when caring for blackberries, you can use straw, last year's hay or.

Growing blackberries on trellises makes it easier to care for and allows the crop to ripen without loss. It is especially important that with this method the north-south row arrangement rule is observed.

To stimulate the growth of new shoots, fertilizing is done with fertilizers, which include nitrogen and phosphates.

Spring application under the bush 50 g ammonium nitrate, as well as natural fertilizer in the form of compost or humus, will increase the yield berry bush. Planting and caring for blackberries without thorns is done in exactly the same way.

During the period of fruit set, that is, from June to the end of July nitrogen fertilizers excluded, and the amount of phosphates increased. Like in the spring potash fertilizers used to a minimum. At the end of summer, the bush begins to prepare for winter, so nitrogen fertilizers are not applied. New shoots are not needed now. In autumn, organic matter, superphosphate and potassium salt are added under blackberries.

pruning

Without pruning, the length of the lashes inherent in the type and variety can greatly exceed the capacity of your site. Uncontrollably, the lashes grow up to 5 meters or more, so the blackberry bush must be formed, but this must be done correctly, otherwise you may not wait for the berries.

The basic principle of pruning is that the berries are tied on the last year's shoots, so there should always be young and lignified lashes on the bush. Young shoots gain strength during the season, and berries are tied on old (last year's) shoots.

So that the yield does not decrease from year to year, it is imperative to remove all lashes that are more than 2 years old.

It is easy to identify those - they just had berries this season, and they should be cut out in the fall.

reproduction

Creeping and erect forms of blackberries reproduce in different ways. Rosyanika does not give offspring. It is propagated by dropping lashes. After they take root, young plant separated from the mother and transplanted to a permanent place. Another way is cuttings.

Kumanika is easily propagated by offspring from the roots. It can also be propagated by shoots and cuttings. With adequate watering planting material it turns out a lot, there is nothing complicated in its preparation.

It is not recommended to dig the ground under bushes with blackberries. For weeding and loosening, it is better to use a flat cutter so as not to cut the roots. For the plant, damage to the roots is not dangerous. The fact is that overgrowth will grow at the site of the cuts, unauthorized reproduction will begin, and it will be extremely difficult to remove the blackberry that is spreading in all directions from the site.