Propagation by layering of garden trees and shrubs. Vegetative propagation of fruit plants
Gooseberries are propagated mainly by vegetative means. When propagated by seeds, varietal characteristics are not preserved in most varieties. Therefore, the seed method is used only in cases where they want to get new varieties.
An interesting fact is that before, gooseberries of the Date variety were often propagated by seeds and received a large number of plants similar in yield and fruit quality to the original variety.
Vegetative propagation gooseberry is based on the ability of its stems to root formation under favorable conditions of humidity and temperature. The roots grow from root primordia formed at the base of the shoot buds.
There are several ways to vegetatively propagate gooseberries. The most common is propagation by horizontal, vertical and arcuate layering, green and lignified cuttings.
Reproduction by horizontal layering
This is the most effective method giving a large amount of high quality planting material. Layers can grow from one-, two-, three-, four-year-old shoots, and the most strongly developed ones are from one-year and two-year-old shoots. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out thinning on the mother plantation in order to obtain as many vigorous annual branches as possible.
In early spring, before the buds open, a small layer of soil is raked from the gooseberry bushes so that a “saucer” 5–7 cm deep is formed; its width should correspond to the length of the stacked shoots. Then 10–12 well-developed annual and biennial branches are selected in the bush and their tops are cut off by 1/4–1/5 of the length. Pruning the tops stimulates the germination of lateral buds. The escape prepared in this way is placed in horizontal position and tightly pressed to the soil with hooks so that it is half (in thickness) pressed into the ground. Hooks are prepared in advance. Branches should not be buried deep, otherwise they will not form layering. In two-year-old shoots, well-developed lateral growths are also pressed.
After a few days, the dug branches awaken buds and give new shoots. As soon as the young branches reach 8–10 cm, they are spudded with moist, loose earth mixed with humus, with a layer of up to 6 cm. After 10–12 days, the hilling is repeated, increasing the soil layer by 3 cm. It is not necessary to make a layer above 9–10 cm, as the roots will develop worse.
Rice. 2. Propagation of gooseberries by horizontal layering
If the soil is dry, then watering should be carried out before hilling. In order for the earth to be normally moist, it is good to use mulching with peat or humus.
At the cutting site, the soil is systematically loosened and weeds are removed.
Dig layering in the fall, at the end of September. It is done like this. Branches are cut off from the uterine bush with a pruner, they are dug up with a shovel on both sides, carefully lifted and shaken off the soil. Thereafter sharp knife separated from the branch layering and sort them. Shoots without a root system are discarded, with weak 2–3 roots they are planted on separate sections for growing and shaping.
Rice. 3. The scheme of laying gooseberry branches on layering
Layers with well developed roots and strong above-ground part planted in nurseries.
Sorted shoots under a canopy or in a barn, preventing the roots from drying out. After sorting, the layers are immediately added dropwise and carefully watered.
On a special uterine plot, 60–80 or more shoots can be obtained from each bush.
For rooting, three- and four-year-old branches are often used, straightening and pinning all side branches. If you carefully care for the plants, get up to 100 layers from the bush. If the harvest of berries is also harvested at the same time, then no more than 5–6 branches are taken away.
In some areas, almost all planting material is sold without growing in nurseries. But such layers take root worse and later come into fruition. Therefore, rearing in the nursery is absolutely necessary.
Reproduction by vertical layering
Mother bushes are planted thickly - at a distance of 2–2.5 m between rows, 1 m - in rows. In the third or fourth year after planting, when many branches are formed, in early spring plants are cut short, leaving stumps 15–17 cm high. Such pruning stimulates increased growth of shoots (from sleeping buds of stumps and basal ones). When the branches grow to 25–30 cm and become semi-lignified in the lower part, they are spudded with moist earth.
The first hilling is done to a height of 10–12 cm from the base of the shoots. After the soil settles somewhat, a second hilling is carried out with a layer of up to 20 cm. If there is insufficient moisture, watering is used: 2–3 buckets of water per bush.
By autumn, adventitious roots develop on the ground-covered part of the shoot.
At the end of September or at the beginning of October, the soil is carefully raked from the bushes, rooted shoots are separated with a sharp knife and transplanted into a nursery.
In production, the method of propagation by vertical layering is rarely used, since this results in fewer seedlings. In addition, after a year, the bushes need rest (for accumulation nutrients).
Reproduction by arcuate layering
This method is also rarely used, since it also gives little planting material. But, in comparison with other methods, it has some advantages. So, when using it, it is quite possible to obtain well-rooted layers suitable for planting on permanent place. The described method can be recommended to amateur gardeners.
It is better to root one-year or two-year-old basal shoots, but you can also grow in the current year (they are usually rooted at the end of June, at the beginning of lignification).
Early in spring, in the first 5–7 days spring work, bring under the bushes organic and mineral fertilizers and loosen the soil. Then they dig a hole up to 10 cm deep, bend the shoot and pin it at the bend to the bottom of the hole. The end of the escape is brought out. The length of the end is 30–35 cm. To give it a vertical position, it is tied to a peg.
4. Propagation of gooseberries by arcuate layering
During the summer, the soil near the bushes is kept moist, applying watering when the top layer dries. Two or three times the earth is loosened and weeds are destroyed.
By autumn, a rich lobe of roots is formed at the bend. In mid-September, the rooted shoot is cut off from the mother plant, and in early October they are dug up and transplanted to a permanent place. A year later, such plants begin to bear fruit.
Propagation by lignified cuttings
Lignified cuttings are well propagated by gooseberries of the Houghton variety and hybrids of this variety - Mysovsky-37, Mysovsky-17, Pyatiletki and others.
best time harvesting and planting cuttings is the beginning of September.
For cuttings, take strong basal shoots that have grown in a given year. Thin, twisted, diseased branches are unsuitable. The cuttings are cut up to 15 cm long, the lower cut is made under the kidney, and the upper one is 1-2 cm above it.
Plant cuttings in well-fertilized light soil, tilting them so that the upper bud is at ground level. Planting distance: 60 cm between rows, 12–15 cm in rows.
For the winter, the cuttings are sprinkled with humus. In the spring of next year, the shelter is removed and the soil is carefully loosened. During the summer, loosening is systematically repeated and, in addition, weeds are removed. With a lack of moisture, the site is watered.
On each cutting grows one, less often two shoots. In the spring (in the second year), they are cut into two buds, and by autumn the plants turn into good seedlings.
Reproduction by green cuttings
Green cuttings can propagate all varieties of gooseberries.
Those cuttings that have not yet stopped rooting are better rooted. active growth, but they have already begun to lignify. If such a handle is bent, then it breaks with a slight crack.
If the cuttings are cut earlier than indicated, then many of them may rot, if later, they will root poorly.
Methods for propagating garden gooseberries
The timing also depends sharply on the conditions of the growing season and the level of agricultural technology.
It is best to cut gooseberries of the Date variety in the third decade of June or in the first decade of July.
For green cuttings, young lateral growths of shoots of the first and second orders are usually used.
Shoots intended for cuttings should have a lot of nutrients. Therefore, it is better to cut them at the end of the day, when they just contain the largest number these substances.
Rice. five. Green gooseberry cuttings
Cut branches are immediately tied into bundles and placed in a bucket of water. They are cut into cuttings in the shade or indoors. Those cuttings that have two nodes take root better. The lower cut is made under the kidney, and the upper one is 0.5 cm above the kidney. The cuts are made with a sharp knife. When cutting with a pruner or an insufficiently sharp knife, the shoot tissue is crushed, and the cutting either quickly rots or takes root worse.
The cuttings are knitted in bundles of 20 pieces and the lower end is immersed in water. Each cutting should have two leaves.
Rice. 6. Rooted green cutting
The treatment of cuttings with growth stimulants has a beneficial effect on rooting. top scores obtained from heteroauxin at a dose of 100-150 mg per liter of water and indolylbutyric acid 30-40 mg per liter of water.
A solution of heteroauxin and indolylbutyric acid is prepared in the following way. The stimulant is dissolved in a small amount hot water, then the resulting concentrate is gradually poured into a liter cold water. Ready solution poured into basins, in which cuttings are placed for 10 hours, immersing them by 1/3 (no more). Then they are rinsed with water and planted in greenhouses. solution temperature and environment should be 22–25 °C. With more high temperature solution may cause poisoning.
The speed of growth of green cuttings depends on the preparation of greenhouses, the quality of planting and care.
In greenhouses, crop residues are removed, the soil is leveled and clean soil is poured over it. river sand layer up to 5 cm, and then watered so that the water, passing through the sand, wets the soil.
Cuttings are planted in rows at a distance of 6 cm between rows and 5 cm in rows (500 cuttings under the frame). Planting depth - 1 cm.
Planted cuttings are sprayed with water and covered with frames. Rooting occurs best at a temperature of 22–24 ° C, high humidity air, diffused lighting and moderate soil moisture (50–60% of full capacity).
To prevent overheating in greenhouses and reduce illumination, immediately after planting, the frames are sprayed with a solution of chalk, and on clear days, they are also shaded with branches. Ventilate moderately - only so as to reduce the temperature. Watered daily from a watering can with a fine strainer; in hot and dry weather, plants are sprayed 2-3 times a day with water.
Roots on cuttings are formed in 22-25 days. With poor care, insufficient humidity, sharp fluctuations in temperature, overheating, etc., root formation may be delayed by 10-15 days.
When shoots appear, ventilation is gradually increased, and after 15–20 days the frames are completely removed.
The shoot on the handle grows most often from the bud of the upper node; two escapes are rare.
By autumn, young bushes grow up to 20 cm high. In the first half of September, their tops are pinched. This event improves the ripening of shoots and protects them from freezing.
It is better to transplant plants in early spring, before the buds awaken.
Propagation of gooseberries by cuttings in spring
Gooseberry bushes can be propagated different ways: dividing the mother bush, layering, seeds. But the easiest way is to carry out vegetative propagation of gooseberries with green or lignified cuttings. The bush from which the cutting will be carried out should not have visible lesions, and the cuttings should be chosen even.
When to cut gooseberries?
The best result is the propagation of gooseberries by cuttings in early spring, even before the start of sap flow. As soon as the snow begins to melt in March, you need to get out into the garden for planting material. You can cut young cuttings. And you can, combined, with the foundation of two years ago.
How to propagate gooseberries with cuttings in spring?
Cuttings should be cut from a bush no older than 10 years old, ideally from an eight-year-old. The length of each is about 20 cm. About five buds must be present on the branch. Before planting in the ground (the most successful way), the stalk is soaked overnight in warm water with the addition of Kornevin or other root-forming additives.
In the yard, you need to dig a groove about 30 cm long and fill it with coarse sand for good drainage. In it, reclining at a large angle, the stalk is laid in such a way that one kidney protrudes above the ground.
From above, gooseberries, planted by cuttings, are sprinkled with a thick layer of humus. That's all, now it remains to wait for next spring to transplant young plants to their permanent place.
Propagation of gooseberries by cuttings is quite simple and not troublesome.
For the whole summer season they need to be regularly watered and fed for a more active build-up of the root system. Ammonium nitrate (40 g) and superphosphate (20 g), which are diluted in 10 liters of water, are best suited for this.
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Propagation of gooseberries by cuttings, layering and dividing the bush
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Propagation of gooseberries by cuttings in spring: how to cut and propagate.
Garden on suburban area can be considered ideal if in the garden in required quantity are growing fruit trees and fruit-bearing shrubs. But this is at first. After a while, something will still be missing. For example, there were a lot of gooseberries, it became scarce. There is a need to increase the number of bushes, the search for solutions to the problem begins. In such cases, one thought most often appears - who would get gooseberries for free. The cause, of course, is noble, but almost unpromising. And why is it needed, if due to the gooseberry bushes already existing on its territory, the number of plantings can be increased by as much as you like.
The bush propagates in several ways. For one of them, the conversation has already been - this is reproduction by layering in its various versions. Another way is cuttings. Compared to layering, it is faster, since cuttings do not need to be grown, they are already there. The only thing is that before you propagate the gooseberries in the spring with the help of cuttings, you need to choose right bush to obtain planting material.
What are the parameters for choosing bushes for cuttings
Generally speaking, the bush should be good or very good. The second question is what does this mean? And it means only that for which any kind of fruit bearing, including gooseberries, is valued. This:
1. The purity of the variety. The indicator, although important, is taken into account only by real gourmets. A common person who needs the amount of berries, may not pay attention to it.
2. The yield of the variety. This is it. New landing will produce a decent harvest only if its "parent" was prolific.
3. The ability of the gooseberry bush to resist diseases and garden pests. In any case, at the time of cutting the shoots into cuttings, the plant should be without visible signs inferiority.
This is the foundation. Will not be listed further work can be considered unpromising. Unless the propagation of gooseberries by cuttings in the spring will be carried out for the sake of entertainment. If everything is in order, you can proceed to the next step. It would be more correct to say, to one of the two, since grafting is general process increase in the number of gooseberry bushes, and reproduction is carried out in two ways: either green or lignified cuttings.
Propagation of gooseberries with green cuttings
We can say that this is a semi-annual express method. Subject to the requirements for the care of planting material, after 9 months there will be as many seedlings as required for complete happiness. Work begins in June, approximately the second half. A more accurate guideline is the presence of full-fledged shoots of the current year on the gooseberry bush.
The cutting procedure is carried out the following rules:
- shoots are cut in the morning or evening hours in cloudy weather;
- the size of the cuttings should be "for 5 kidneys";
- to speed up the process, the planting material is soaked in a growth stimulator. From evening to morning there will be enough time;
- planting gooseberry cuttings for rooting is carried out in an inclined position so that one or two buds remain open above the ground. Planting density - a square of 10 × 10 centimeters;
— planting soil it is a mixture of sand with peat or humus;
- at the end of planting, watering and mulching, you can use humus.
And you need to make sure that the nursery is located in a shady zone with moderate humidity. If necessary, the cuttings are fed organic fertilizers in liquid form.
Propagation of gooseberries by lignified cuttings
Such propagation of gooseberries by cuttings in spring has a longer period in time, but, in fact, in terms of the very process of reproduction, it is no different from the previous one. Yes, there are some nuances, and we will consider them.
1. In this case, cuttings can be harvested both in autumn and in spring. Autumn are cut when the gooseberry bush enters a state of rest - after harvesting and falling leaves. autumn cuttings first they are placed in a cold place for storage, and with the onset of spring they are soaked and planted. Spring ones are necessarily harvested before the revival of nature begins - until the movement of juice begins. They are placed in water or a stimulating solution, planted in a day.
2. Rooting cuttings are fed with a solution: superphosphate - 20 grams, potassium salt - 20 grams, ammonium nitrate - 40 grams, water - 10 liters. Fertilization time is until the end of summer.
3. The "seedlings" spend the winter at the place of rooting, in the spring the finished seedlings are transferred to their place.
4. The soil at the time of rooting of the cut shoots can be ordinary coarse-grained river sand.
About how to propagate gooseberries in the spring with last year's cuttings, in principle, everything. In conclusion, a few general recommendations for both types of reproduction. First, cuttings cut from basal shoots are considered to be the best. In second place are the tops of the branches. The most disadvantaged cuttings from the central part of the branches. Secondly, gooseberry cuttings will be much more successful if the bushes from which the shoots are cut are up to 8 years old, age best development and maximum fruitfulness.
On this, the recommendations for cutting gooseberries in the spring can be considered complete. Types of reproduction are considered, the process itself too. It remains to take a pruner, choose a bush, cut the shoots, grow seedlings from them and plant the entire summer cottage with gooseberries.
Along with this article, they usually read:
How to treat gooseberries in early spring: spring treatment for pests and diseases.
Spraying - milestone spring processing garden. Why do it, everyone knows - this is protection against a possible, not even possible, but an unconditional "attack" on gooseberry bushes garden pests. Plus, protection garden plant from diseases.
Pruning gooseberries in spring: how to prune gooseberries in spring, a diagram for beginners.
The gooseberry grows, grows, and if there are a lot of branches, the crop should seem to be more. However, in practice, thickening the bush crown leads to a completely different result - gooseberry fruits become tasteless, small and inconspicuous.
Planting gooseberries: where and how to plant gooseberries, time and date of planting.
For you, dear summer residents, "Gardener and Gardener" has prepared detailed material about planting gooseberries. Optimal timing landing and the best place in the garden, row simple rules seedling preparation and the planting process itself. It's not hard at all, trust me!
Gooseberry diseases and bush care: powdery mildew, moth, pests.
What should be done first to cure the bush or prevent the spread of pests? What preventive actions are needed in the future to protect your berry plant from repeating an unsightly picture? Let's try to figure this out.
Reproduction by layering allows you to get high-quality seedlings of such shrubs and trees as currants, gooseberries, grapes, roses, lilacs, hazelnuts, dwarf varieties apple trees and so on.
Branches are branches that are rooted but not detached from the mother plant. There are several varieties of layering reproduction, the main of which will be introduced to you in this article.
Before proceeding with the very rooting of the shoots of the selected breed, you need to take a few preparatory steps:
- By intensive pruning, stimulate the growth of annual branches on the mother plant.
- Prepare the soil at the planting site - fertilize it with sand, compost or humus and.
- For poorly rooted crops, ring the stem. To do this, a strip of bark about 8 millimeters wide is cut off with a sharp blade around the stem. It is advisable to tie the shoot at the bend at the bend with copper wire.
Reproduction by arcuate layering
As a rule, this method is used in early spring, as soon as the soil is ready.. Grooves 10 to 15 centimeters deep are dug around the mother plant and shoots are placed in them, directing their tops vertically. Next, the shoots are mulched with prepared soil mixture, tamped a little and watered. During the growing season, they try to maintain the soil in a moderately moist state, preventing it from drying out.
Reproduction by vertical layering
When propagated by vertical layering, the mother liquor is planted “on a stump”, as shown in the figure, and the formation of stumps is awaited.
Then it is spudded with compost or humus soil. Hilling is carried out in several terms. The first time, when the height of the shoots is from 15 to 20 centimeters, and then the operation is repeated every one and a half months until the height of the earthen mound reaches about 30 centimeters.
By autumn, each shoot in such a mound acquires its own root system. Then the earth is raked from the very base and the rooted shoots are separated from the parent plant with a pruner.
Reproduction by horizontal layering
In early spring, healthy annual shoots of the mother liquor are placed horizontally in shallow - no more than two centimeters - grooves in the radial direction from the plant. Then they are fixed to the soil with metal hooks or studs. Powdering with earth is not carried out immediately, but only when new shoots begin to appear from the buds. Gradually, as they develop, they are covered with soil. Young plants are cut off from the mother bush in the same autumn or next spring.
Propagation by air layering
This method, also called Chinese, allows you to quickly and easily propagate both berry and fruit plants, including pear, apple and plum.
A strong one is found on a tree annual runaway and at a distance of 15 to 25 centimeters from its upper part, a strip of bark is cut off on it. The place of the bark is abundantly moistened with a solution, wrap this place with a wet sphagnum moss, and on top - with a black plastic film, the edges of which are securely fixed with a rope or twine.
At the end of the growing cycle, the rooted shoots are separated from the tree by cutting them below the film. Layers with rudiments of roots are planted in a greenhouse for growing.
Reproduction by dividing the bush
The division of the bush, although it is the simplest and convenient method reproduction of many ornamental and berry bushes, however, it is far from the most productive. The best time for this method is autumn, but the bushes can be divided in the spring.
To do this, the plant is dug up, dirt is removed from its roots, and with the help of a garden hacksaw or pruner, the bush is divided into several parts. At the same time, they make sure that a good root system and 2-3 strong shoots remain on each segment.
If you plan to get only one or two new plants, then the bush can not be removed from the ground, but simply dig it on one side and cut off well-developed and rooted shoots with pruners.
Did you know that layering is the most easy way propagate blackcurrant? I propose to verify this by watching a short video.
Reproduction by layering
This is the oldest method of propagation used in horticulture. It consists in stimulating the formation of roots on the stem even before it is separated from the mother plant. The method is simple as it does not require careful environmental control in order to maintain the viability of the shoots during the period of root formation. Reproduction by layering is used in the cultivation of undersized clonal rootstocks, own-rooted varietal trees, as well as plants that are poorly propagated by cuttings.
When propagated by layering, compared with cuttings, the percentage of rooted plants increases.
Rooting layering requires constant humidity, moderate temperature and loose soil (with the addition of humus and sand). The ringing of the bark contributes to the acceleration of root formation. The most common are vertical, horizontal and arcuate layering.
Vertical layers - a simple and often used method of plant propagation in practice. The essence of the method lies in the fact that rooted cuttings, cuttings or seedlings are planted at the place of future reproduction. With the beginning of the growing season, the plant is pruned, leaving a stump 2–5 cm long above the ground. The next spring, when the growing shoots reach a length of 15–20 cm, they are spudded to the very top, then, when they reach 25 cm, spud again. The hedged part of the earth is regularly watered, keeping it slightly moist. By the end of autumn, roots grow on the hilled part of the plant. The earth is carefully raked and rooted plants are separated from the mother plant. The operation is repeated next year.
Horizontal layering (French). As in the previous case, at the end of the first year of vegetation, the plant is cut off, leaving a stump 2–5 cm above the soil level. During the next year, the plant is not touched, giving it the opportunity to grow shoots. In autumn, after the leaves fall, some of the shoots are cut out, leaving 5–7 of the most powerful ones, which are bent to the ground and attached in a horizontal position, due to which all the buds start growing at the same time in spring. When young shoots reach a length of 5–8 cm, they are detached from the ground, laid in grooves 5 cm deep, covered with earth and watered. As the shoots grow, they are spudded with earth, leaving the tops on the surface (Fig. 67). The height of the ridges above the soil surface should be about 15 cm. By autumn, layering grows from each bud of a horizontally laid lash. At the same time, new stems grow on the mother bush, which will be used next year to obtain horizontal layering.
Rice. 67. Reproduction by horizontal layering
Air layers used for propagating plants that are poorly rooted by cuttings, and when it is necessary to obtain a small number of new plants. This method is often used in greenhouse and indoor crop production. Its essence lies in the fact that on an unseparated lignified shoot at a distance of 15–30 cm from the top, a ring of bark 1.5–2 cm wide is removed. in diameter). Then the moss is wrapped in a piece polyethylene film, the edges of which are tied with insulating tape. After the end of rooting (at different plants from one to six months) young growth is removed from the layer, the layer is cut off, the film is removed, the moss is slightly loosened and planted in a permanent place of growth.
Arcuate layering (normal)- the simplest and effective method reproduction of tree species. For arcuate layering, it is advisable to use young shoots, they are easier to bend to the ground, they root faster. To perform layering on a segment of the shoot 30–60 cm long, counting from the top, remove all leaves and side shoots (without touching the tops with 5–10 leaves). Then the branch is bent down and its position on the ground is marked. At 10–20 m from this mark, a groove is dug 10–15 cm deep. The shoot is lowered into it, leaving the apical part above ground level, attached with a bracket to the bottom of the groove, buried and watered.
For plants that are difficult to root (such as noble laurel, feijoa), a strip of bark 8–10 mm wide is removed along the circumference of the stem in the lower part of the apical shoot. Layering should be done in the spring. By autumn, roots form on it, and it is ready for transplanting to a permanent place.
From the book of Currant. Planting, growing, harvesting authorReproduction The main method of propagation of currants is vegetative (lignified cuttings, green cuttings and arcuate layering, by rooting two-year-old branches from the main bush). The easiest method of propagation, suitable for
From the book Gooseberry. Planting, growing, harvesting author Zvonarev Nikolai MikhailovichPropagation by horizontal layering This is the most efficient method, providing a large amount of high-quality planting material. Layers can grow from one-, two-, three-, four-year-old shoots, and the most strongly developed ones are from one-year and
From the book woody plants author Zgurskaya Maria PavlovnaReproduction by vertical layering Mother bushes are planted densely - at a distance of 2–2.5 m between rows, 1 m - in rows. In the third or fourth year after planting, when many branches have formed, the plants are cut short in early spring, leaving stumps 15–17 cm high.
From the book 300 tips for an amateur wine grower author Saveliev V.F.Reproduction by arcuate layering This method is also rarely used, since it also produces little planting material. But, in comparison with other methods, it has some advantages. So, when using it, it is quite possible to get good results within one year.
From the book Garden Ponds author Kolesnikova Elena GeorgievnaReproduction by lignified layering. Lignified cuttings reproduce well the gooseberry of the Houghton variety and hybrids of this variety - Mysovsky-37, Mysovsky-17, Pyatiletki and others. The best time for harvesting and planting cuttings is the beginning of September. For cuttings
From the book Your Home Vineyard author Plotnikova Tatyana FedorovnaReproduction Propagation by seeds Tropical and subtropical tub plants are grown from seeds. Myrtle and citrus fruits are propagated from large-sized fruits of temperate latitudes. Many seeds that have a strong skin are stratified before planting. Most often the skin
From the book Miracle Harvest. Big Encyclopedia garden and orchard author Polyakova Galina ViktorovnaREPRODUCTION OF GRAPES BY LAYERS The method of reproduction of grapes by layering deserves wide application in personal and collective plots. There are several types of layering: green, semi-green, dry, katavlak, Chinese, etc. The essence of all of them is
From the book Fundamentals of Beekeeping [Most necessary advice for those who want to start their own apiary] author Medvedev N. I.Reproduction Despite the fact that many plants used to decorate reservoirs set seeds well, almost all of them are propagated vegetatively - it is easier, faster, and at the same time, the varieties retain all varietal characteristics. For the propagation of species growing in the water column
From the book The Big Encyclopedia of the Summer Resident author Vecherina Elena YurievnaPropagation by layering Propagation by layering is the oldest way to propagate grapes. According to the Bible, Noah was the first vinedresser on Earth. When his ark landed on Mount Ararat, Noah noticed climbing plant with fragrant and sweet berries. This was
Propagation by layering is an operation in which shoots still attached to the mother plant are rooted. The simplest method- rooting of apical shoots. It is used to produce young blackberry plants, raspberry-blackberry hybrids, brambles and black raspberries. At the end of summer, the ends of the shoots of these plants are sprinkled with soil. The loose (and fixed) part develops the roots, and the rooted tip separated from the mother plant next spring, will be transplanted already as an independent plant.
Another variation of this method is the powdering of individual branches, and the tip of the branch remains uncovered with soil. This method is successful for grapes and hazelnuts, hazel.
Two methods of obtaining air layers
First method used in England. Select a branch with a diameter of a pencil and make a notch in the center, extending it to a length of 5 cm. Such a notch is made below a sleeping bud, located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the end of the branch. In the void formed under the bark, put a pebble or moss (preferably sphagnum) so that the wound does not heal from contact with the bark.
Wrap this place with a handful of moss, moistening it with water, preferably pond; wrap a transparent but waterproof film on top (or put on a bag made of such material). At both ends, the film (pouch) must be securely tied. Roots should develop within four to five weeks.
In the second way air layering, it does not matter how large the diameter or length of the branch (shoot) taken is. You simply cut through the bark and cambium in a circle (banding) to the wood and wrap this place with a water-saturated material. If the shoot is very thin, it is better to make a second one 2-3 cm from the first ring.
On large branches, leave a space between the rings of about 3 cm. Now completely remove all the bark and cambium - down to the white dense layer. Thus, you have stopped the flow of cell sap into the branch below the ring from the mother plant. If the branch is left uncovered in this form, it will die. To complete the operation, you must cover the wound with something like sphagnum moss, moisten and tie on top with a moisture-proof (so as not to dry out), but light-permeable material.
Roots will form in one to two months. When the roots have reached a length of a few centimeters, the branch can be cut off with a saw or clean clippers just below the lower end of the "ball".
Successfully rooted cuttings can now live on their own once planted. Starting their lives, they are still fragile, so they need to be patronized. Therefore, soak the roots in warm water for an hour before planting. Throw away the moss or any other rooting material. The newly formed roots will provide vital fluids for the plants. In order for the roots to cope, shorten the shoot by at least 1/3.
Now you can plant layering in containers or directly in garden soil. For several months in a row, it must be kept in the shade, in moist soil. Then move it to the corner of your choice.
The process itself is described by G. Hartmann (California agronomic station). Just before the beginning of growth in spring, mother plants (mother liquors) are cut close to the ground. Around the new shoots, the soil is loosened so that it covers them, except for the very tips of the branches. Soil mounds should reach 20-30 cm. Roots grow from the bases of new shoots.
Roots take root in bulk soil. If this soil is kept moist all the time, new rooted shoots will hold up well and feed themselves by winter. In autumn, the earth is dug up and independent plants, transformed from shoots, are cut off. Then they are usually planted in a nursery and given another year to get stronger. This method is also suitable for black and red currants (pink white), quince and certain varieties of plums and apple trees.
Plants that are easily rooted by root and shoot layers will also take root without problems with any cuttings: for example, a piece of a stem, a leaf attached to a short stem segment, if they are created favorable conditions. Important factors that make rooting either possible or not are the condition of the material used and the timing of planting the cuttings.
- one of the oldest, simplest and most affordable methods of vegetative propagation of plants, which allows without much hassle and additional facilities root lignified and growing shoots of both old and young bushes and vines. It is very convenient for gardeners who appear on their site only on weekends.
propagate layering and quite simply. To do this, it is enough to pick up the mother plant and create favorable conditions for the formation of roots on one or more shoots, and after rooting, separate the new bush.
Usually hydrangea, mock orange, lilac, honeysuckle, actinidia, barberry, cinquefoil, roses, rhododendrons, clematis and many other decorative and berry crops. And even trees.
For the formation of roots on the selected shoot, it is necessary to create such conditions that the part where they will form does not get light. You can speed up the process of their formation by stopping the movement of nutrients and growth substances along the stem. In most cases, it is enough to bend the shoot, securing it in the ground.
For bookmarking, as a rule, take annual branches that have a high root-forming ability.
The soil around the mother plants and that which is sprinkled with rooted stems should be loose, fertile and moist.
The root system will develop more strongly if, three to four weeks before planting, the cuttings are separated from the mother plant and the young shoots that have grown over the summer are cut off.
Depending on the rooting technology, arcuate, vertical and horizontal strips.
When propagated by arcuate layering from each allotted shoot, one rooted plant is obtained. In the spring, one or more holes 10-15 cm deep are dug around the mother bush. One-two-year-old branches are bent into them, pinning them to the ground at the bend. The pits are covered with soil, leaving a third of a branch or shoot 10-30 cm long on the surface.
Rooted cuttings are planted in a permanent place in the spring of next year. Almost all decorative and berry bushes and vines.
Vertical layers are obtained by high hilling shoots growing on the mother bush. This breeding method is used to obtain hazelnuts, viburnum, lilacs, currants, gooseberries, clonal rootstocks of apple trees.
First, the mother site is laid with rooted shoots cut at a height of 15-20 cm. In the first year, the plants grow freely and develop root system. In the spring of the second year, the aerial part is cut into a stump. The shoots growing from it are spudded with soil when they reach a height of 15-20 cm. During the growing season, hilling is repeated 2-3 times. In autumn, the bushes are unraveled and rooted shoots are separated.
Reproduction by horizontal layering- the most common way. It makes it possible to quickly obtain a large number of seedlings from the mother plant. In the spring, before flowering begins, grooves 5 cm deep are dug around the mother liquor in different directions and removed right amount well developed shoots. All leaves are removed from them, leaving only the top and placed in a groove, pinned to the ground.
Layers remain open until vertical shoots 10-15 cm long grow on them. Only then the grooves are covered with loose fertile soil, leaving only their tops on the surface. As the shoots grow, they are constantly spudded. In autumn or next spring, rooted cuttings are separated by secateurs from the mother plant with part of the horizontal stem. In this way, lilac, rose, hydrangea, mock orange, skumpia, clematis, action, weigela, cinquefoil and many others are successfully propagated.
On a note:
Exotic appearance coupled with unpretentiousness makes the care of nolina very simple, and this plant is often chosen to decorate houses, offices and spacious halls of various institutions.