Do I need to remove fallen leaves? Do I need to remove fallen leaves from the garden in autumn? How to remove foliage in vast garden areas

Every year, in late October - early November, gardeners have seasonal work- cleaning the garden from fallen leaves. But many gardeners are wondering: Is it worth it to remove the leaves at all ?, What to do with them? Where to put these huge piles of leaves - burn them, take them to the forest, store them in compost heaps, mulch beds and flower beds with them, or even bury them in the far corner of the site?

Adherents of classical garden cleaning advise to carefully clean the garden from fallen leaves, because, as fallen leaves, it is an excellent place for wintering numerous garden pests-insects that successfully winter in a warm secluded place, as well as fallen leaves are a breeding ground for many pathogens and fungi, especially if your trees were affected by various diseases during the season.

They suggest storing fallen leaves in compost heap, where the leaf litter cakes and rots well, turning into an excellent fertilizer for your site.

Here in Kyiv, for example, on Obolon, janitors rake fallen leaves into heaps, which are then taken out to special compost pits. They rot there and later serve as compost for flower beds and flower beds. After all, Kyiv is famous in the world for its parks and squares.

Supporters organic farming do not agree that the garden needs cleaning in autumn. They are of the opinion that fallen leaves protect the roots of trees from cold weather and, when decomposed, improve the structure of the soil and its composition.

To give you an example, in 2010 the Moscow government developed a whole concept for improving the structure of the soil in parks and squares, based on the opinion of environmentalists that the leaves, decomposing in the soil, fertilize the tree roots with nutrients. This will hinder various diseases trees in gardens and squares and prolong the life of green plantings.

Fallen leaves are not only an excellent fertilizer, but also serve as an excellent food for earthworms and beneficial microorganisms, which improve the soil structure with their activities.

In autumn, fallen leaves can also be used to cover the flower beds and beds where the cultivation was carried out. winter sowing or landings. You can also mulch beds and flower beds with fallen leaves, digging them a little into the soil.

Based on the foregoing, I conclude that the issue of fallen leaves in the garden should be decided at the personal discretion of the gardener. If the gardener is not prevented from walking around the site by rustling leaves underfoot, why not. At my summer cottage, I carefully clean the lawn from leaves, but sometimes I leave it on the beds until spring. This will not hurt, especially if you cover strawberries and strawberries with them.

The real owner (hostess) always has order on the site and nothing will be lost, and the garden receives the necessary support in the form of high-quality compost, regular watering, imported land and top dressing (fertilizers).

My wife is cleaning the lawn

Despite this, there are several important points Every gardener should know:

Do not leave carrion (rotten fruits from fruit trees) under fruit trees and bushes. It is better to immediately dispose of the carrion in a compost heap, you can take it out of the site or bury it in the far corner of the site;

If your garden this season was sick with various diseases, scab, coccomycosis or powdery mildew, for example, then fallen leaves must be removed. Since many pathogens are stored in fallen leaves. Therefore, it is advisable to either take the fallen leaves from diseased trees outside the site or burn them, but in no case should they be put in a compost heap. Someone may object to me that in the process of decay, pathogens will successfully die in a few years, but I think that this is not worth doing - it is better to burn;

The lawn must be cleared of fallen leaves. IN winter period under a layer of snow, uncollected leaves from the lawn turn into a compress, which in turn harms the quality of the lawn. Under such a compress, the grass rots. In the spring after overwintering on the lawn appear yellow spots. Therefore, in the fall, the lawn must be cleaned of fallen leaves, as well as aeration and scarification.

That's all! Wish you, pleasant hassle garden and lawn care.

Question " where to put the leaves of the trees”In the fall, the most popular among summer residents. Let me tell you how I deal with it.

USEFUL PROPERTIES OF FALLEN LEAVES I DISCOVERED FOR MYSELF A FEW YEARS AGO AND VERY SORRY THAT I DID NOT GUESS ABOUT THEM EARLIER. With this free, but very valuable material that appears under your feet, I could increase fertility and improve the structure of the soil on my site, achieved plenty of fruiting vegetable and garden crops and significantly reduced its work in the care of plants.

Didn't have to buy

Today, the assortment of gardening shops is amazing, and when looking at the shelves, the eyes of the lucky one run wide: here you can buy absolutely everything that will help facilitate work on the plot, and achieve abundant fruiting of vegetable and vegetable crops. horticultural crops or lush flowering ornamental plants. But how many of us are so well off that we can afford to buy all these innovations and inventions of modern manufacturers?

Personally, I have a very modest income, and I can’t “shine” in a gardening store.

I would really like to try out the commercially available mulching nonwoven fabric, buy a dozen or two ready-made shelters for warming plants for the winter, bring several tons of ready-made humus soil mixture to the site and finally improve our poor sandy soil, and also buy many more different useful goods that would help minimize my labor costs in the country.

However, I did not ruin family budget and decided to show ingenuity in summer activities: I was able to improve the quality garden soil and achieve a decent harvest with the help of free material, namely fallen leaves from own garden. And for those gardeners and gardeners who, like me, are trying to minimize financial expenses, I advise you to take note of my story and this fall to properly use leaf litter in your summer cottage.

Fur coat in the garden

The idea to use a huge mountain of autumn leaves to good use arose spontaneously. Instead of burning them as usual, I decided to insulate them big garden with winter garlic. I first dug up pieces of old slate along the edges of the bed so that the foliage would not scatter from gusts of wind, planted garlic in the usual way, and after a couple of weeks, with the onset of a steady cold snap, I covered the bed with the left leaves with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Come in early spring I didn’t manage to go to the dacha to remove the “fur coat” from the garlic beds, and I was worried that I would be left without garlic this year: I thought that he must have rotted under a thick layer of mulch. However, at the end of April, I found my garlic in excellent condition.

Shoots easily made their way through the compacted leaf litter and looked stronger and healthier than ever. Something else was surprising for me: by that time, the ground in the rest of the garden had already completely dried out (I was always upset by such an unpleasant feature of our sandy soil), but in the garden with garlic, the soil remained moist and loose. I did not remove the leaves from the garlic plantation - throughout the summer they continued to perfectly retain moisture in the garden after the next watering, which made me incredibly happy. That season, I had an excellent harvest of garlic and realized that fallen leaves - a real find!

In addition to the fact that she solved my problem with watering (I am a “weekend” summer resident), in addition, after rotting, she made the soil in the garden incredibly loose and soft.

After my successful experiment, I decided to use this free material as a mulch for the most variety of plants. But since I plant the rest of the vegetables, except for garlic, only in the spring, I began to stock up on autumn leaves for the future. To do this, after leaf fall, she stuffed old iron barrels with litter, tamped the contents as much as possible and tightly closed them with lids.

The leaves were collected only in dry weather: the wet material rotted during the winter, and I needed mulch. In the spring (after the seedlings appeared and grew a little on the beds, and also after the seedlings were planted in the ground), I opened the barrels and covered the aisles of everyone without exception with leaves. vegetable crops- tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, onions, carrots, daikon, etc. After subsequent moistening from a watering can, they covered the ground with a dense layer 3–5 cm thick and saved me from the need to water the plantings for a long period. If earlier plants in the summer drought, j somehow survived from Saturday to Saturday in anticipation of my arrival at the dacha, now j grew by leaps and bounds, because thanks to such mulch, the moisture in the soil after watering on the weekend was preserved for the whole next week.

Leaves for warmth

Insofar as Orchard, located on my personal plot, occupies a rather vast territory and annually by autumn gives a large number of fallen leaves, I decided to find for this free material and others, no less useful options applications.

Leaf litter is perfect for the construction of "warm" beds, in which I sow vegetables and herbs in the spring for ultra-early production. To build such a structure, I first dig a trench about 40 cm deep at the planned place, folding the top fertile soil layer separately to the side.

Then, at the bottom of the recess, I lay small branches left after pruning trees and shrubs, corn and sunflower stalks. After that, I fill the trench to the top with fallen leaves and soft-stemmed weeds without roots and seeds, sprinkling them with layers of earth 7-10 cm thick and sifted wood ash, and then pouring abundantly with a solution any EM preparation, prepared according to the instructions.

From above I fall asleep fertile soil, getting on the surface of the site an earthen roller about 30 cm high, and cover ready-made bed black film.

During the winter, the contents of such a bed settle and with the first spring rays of the sun under a black film, and under the influence of soil microorganisms, it begins to actively decompose, releasing heat. The soil on such a bed warms up in the spring at the most early dates, allowing you to sow vegetables a month earlier than usual. Already in the first decade of April, I remove the film from the ridge, slightly loosen the soil and plant this or that crop. To protect tender shoots from spring return frosts I install arcs over the bed and cover them with a dense spunbond. Thanks to such warm beds, each of which serves me for 3-4 years, I get fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, early ripening root crops and a variety of greens much earlier than my neighbors in the country.

Do-it-yourself leaf humus

IN last years prices for manure and humus began to “bite” quite strongly. In addition, my attempts to purchase such organic matter did not end in anything good: not only did one day, instead of the ordered fresh mullein, they brought me a truck of ordinary earth mixed with a bunch of weeds and branches, but also, along with the purchase, “gifted” me with numerous May beetle larvae - malicious pests, with which I later had to fight for a very long time.

Therefore, in order to save money and with caution in relation to such unpleasant surprises, I decided to start harvesting leaf humus, to which, as it turned out later, all cultures, without exception, responded very well.

To this end, in a remote but sunny corner of my site, I built a capacious compost bin from pieces of tin.

I fall asleep in it in the fall autumn leaves and sprinkle with a small layer of earth. In order to neutralize the acidic reaction of the future fertilizer in advance, I sprinkle the leaves with wood ash, chalk or dolomite flour. I spill each such layer abundantly with a solution of urea, prepared at the rate of 20-25 g per 10 liters of water, and lay on top a new batch of leaves sprinkled with a deoxidizer and earth, which I also spill with a nitrogen solution. I fill the compost bin with litter to the top, cover it with a film on top to prevent the nutrients from being washed out by precipitation, and leave it in this form until spring.

During the next summer season, I periodically remove the film from the compost bin for ventilation and regularly spill the contents with water, preventing it from drying out and waterlogging. By autumn, I get young humus with a small amount of skeletons of leaf plates.

If you leave the fertilizer in the compost bin for another year, then by the end of the next season you can get fully matured humus - a homogeneous loose and crumbly soil mass with a pleasant aroma. But personally, I decided to use the young leaf humus that ripens for vegetable beds or in the near-stem circles of trees and shrubs, nourishing the plants with the necessary macronutrients and humic compounds, and after the leaf fall I hasten to stock up on a new portion of leaves and lay them for composting.

Cheap hideouts

Fallen leaves came in handy for the construction winter shelters for heat-loving plants and young seedlings of horticultural crops. I no longer remember buying expensive ready-made shelters: free leaf litter, having excellent thermal insulation properties, successfully replaced all these newfangled inventions and saved us from unnecessary expenses.

To this end, after leaf fall on a clear day, I rake dry fallen leaves and place them in large plastic bags to protect them from getting wet. With the onset of a steady cold snap, I begin to prepare the plants for wintering. To do this, pre-cut heat-loving vines (covering grapes, actinidia, clematis, climbing roses, honeysuckle honeysuckle, etc.) I remove from the trellis, compactly twist the shoots and lay them on the ground (I carry out the procedure only in dry weather). From above I fall asleep whip "with a head" with dry leaves and cover with a dense film, the edges of which I firmly fasten to the ground with metal studs or sprinkle with a layer of earth. Dry leaf litter is also poured onto the beds with garden strawberries, bulbous flowers and capricious perennials, I cover it with polyethylene on top, attach its ends around the perimeter and leave it in this form until spring.

To protect from winter frosts root system newly planted seedlings, as well as heat-loving berries and fruit trees, I use another method - I type trash bags with dry leaves, I tie them tightly and lay them close to each other in the near-trunk circles of plants.

In the spring, with the arrival of heat, I remove the shelters, but sometimes I leave part of the leaves under shrubs and trees, which I scatter in an even layer in the near-trunk circle so that they retain moisture in the soil longer from melting snow. And if the spring turns out to be too cold, and return frosts threaten to destroy the flowers of early ripe berry and fruit crops, I leave the shelter of the leaves in their near-trunk circles for more long term, thus slowing down the thawing of the soil and delaying the flowering of plants.

Leaves from under which trees?

Assessing beneficial features fallen leaves and starting to use them for the purposes described above, over time, she began to experience a shortage of such material in her own garden. Therefore, in order to stock up on enough litter to mulch the garden, humus preparation, facilities warm beds and warming plants for the winter, began to bring the missing part from the deciduous forest located nearby.

But filling the bags forest leaves, I try not to take the litter from under the aspen, oak, willow and hazel, because they contain tannins in their composition, which have a depressing effect on cultivated plants. But the leaves of fruit trees and berry trees from my own garden, as well as birch, mountain ash, alder, linden, maple and ash litter, I use for my own purposes without fear.

In addition, it is worth mentioning that fallen leaves tend to acidify the soil when rotting. Therefore, when using this material for mulching (especially on acidic soil) on the beds will have to periodically make deoxidizers - wood ash, chalk, lime, dolomite flour etc. (the application rates of such preparations must be calculated according to the instructions, depending on the pH level of each specific area).

However, even in this case, you should not refuse such an excellent mulching material: a layer of leaves, spread out in the aisles of vegetable crops and tree trunks of garden plantings, protects the soil from washing out, weathering and drying out, reduces the amount of irrigation and eliminates the tedious procedure of loosening and removing weeds. . After rotting, such a mulch will make heavy clay soil looser and more permeable, and sandy soil add such a valuable property as moisture capacity.

Care should be taken to use leaf litter as mulch only on household plots located in regions where there are frequent heavy rains: an excessively thick layer of leaves can cause waterlogging of the soil and, as a result, increase the risk of plant damage by fungal diseases.

ON A NOTE

I want to warn those summer residents who decide to learn from my experience from using garden leaves from under those garden trees and shrubs, which were affected by diseases in the current season. This litter is best burned, as it, when used as mulch or composting material, will spread the infection throughout the garden.

Foliage - cannot be removed

Gorgeous Golden autumn ends with the trees shedding their leaves and going into hibernation. And the gardener is in thought - what should he do with the fallen leaves? The answer to this question is not as obvious as it seems. There are pluses and minuses in the preservation of leaf litter under the trees, and in its destruction, and in processing. The best solution, as always, will have to be searched based on specific conditions.

On the one hand, fallen leaves are an excellent fur coat for tree roots, but on the other hand, they are a great place for wintering pests ...?

Under a fluffy blanket

In the forests, no one cleans up fallen leaves. However, they grow briskly wherever natural conditions and people give them even the slightest opportunity. Consisting primarily of leaf litter, the forest floor is essential part ecological system. By losing their leaves, the trees fertilize themselves. They return to the soil everything that the roots have taken, and add to this a huge mass of synthesized organic matter. The vital activity of many insects and microorganisms quickly turns the fallen leaf into humus, maintaining soil fertility. In some ways, the decaying layer of leaf litter is a compost heap distributed throughout the forest.

In addition, rotting leaves retain moisture and generate heat. Therefore, under a layer of forest litter, the soil in winter is more humid, loose and warm than in open areas. This improves the wintering conditions for trees and shrubs, preventing the roots from getting cold. Moreover, in warm earth roots continue to work in winter. They gradually absorb nutrient solutions, but do not send them up, but accumulate them in a concentrated form. In the spring, when a lot of energy is needed to open the buds, these reserves will come in handy. That is why spring birch and maple saps are distinctly sweet in taste - these are the roots that send winter "blanks" to the branches.

In addition, the gardener is not satisfied with the simple natural balance of beneficial and harmful insects. A worm apple is able to give life to new shoots, that is, it will retain its natural function. But the consumer wants to get not only seeds, but also a clean and beautiful fruit.

Therefore, the first concern of the gardener is pest control. Some winter directly in the layer of fallen leaves, others - in the upper soil layer. Apple flower beetle, gooseberry and currant moth, raspberry weevil, spider mite and many others take refuge under a sheet coat. It also contains pathogens of all bacterial and fungal diseases that plagued the garden in summer: scab, septoria, powdery mildew, anthracnose, coccomycosis and many others.

In a thick layer of fallen leaves, mice and voles feel good. They are also capable of causing considerable damage to the garden and flower garden. These voracious rodents damage the bark of young trees and shrubs, flower bulbs and rhizomes of overwintering vegetables.

Sweep and destroy!

It turns out that it is more reasonable to remove the foliage from under the trees. How

proceed with her? First of all, you need to assess the condition of the leaves. If they have visible damage by diseases and pests - black and rotten spots, bites, etc. - then such leaves must be immediately removed from under the trees and burned. They are unsuitable even in compost or as a heater!

It is better to destroy the leaves if the site is located near a busy highway or in an ecologically unfavorable area. Foliage over the summer catches and accumulates harmful substances, which have absolutely no reason to go into the soil.

If it is not possible to ensure the safe burning of leaves, they can be taken to a landfill or buried in the ground.

If there have been no disease outbreaks in the garden and the foliage looks healthy, then you can leave it under the trees until spring. It is desirable that at the same time the gardener has the opportunity to take care of the garden during the winter, quickly responding to the vagaries of the weather.

It is imperative to remove fallen fruits from under trees and shrubs - they will become breeding grounds for diseases and attract mice. Foliage from autumn should be sprayed with a 5% solution of urea, it will slightly disinfect the litter and serve as fertilizer. You can also use a weak solution of Bordeaux mixture. They also need to process the trunks and crowns of trees.

If the autumn is very dry, then the leaf litter and the soil under it should be thoroughly watered and wetted. This will start the processes of decomposition of foliage, and moisture will benefit the tree.

Unstable winters can serve well in the fight against hibernating pests. During the thaw, you need to rake the leaves to the side and loosen the top layers of the soil with a rake. During subsequent freezing, some of the pests that overwintered in the soil shallowly under the cover of leaves and in the foliage layer will die. After the sheet fur coat can be returned to trunk circles, providing shelter for the roots.

In a snowless winter, you need to periodically loosen the caked layer of leaves. This will also worsen the wintering conditions for pests.

After heavy snowfalls, the snow around the trees should be trampled down. At the same time, the layer of leaves under it will also be compacted. This will make it difficult for rodents to move.

In the spring, the remains of foliage from under garden trees will need to be removed, sent to a compost heap or buried in the ground. This should be done as early as possible, as soon as the snow melts. Night colds will no longer be able to severely damage the trees, but wintering pests, devoid of warm blanket, will not say hello. It is especially necessary to carefully remove the remains of foliage from the bases of gooseberry, currant, and raspberry bushes.

We use foliage in a businesslike way

Healthy foliage can and should be used in a businesslike way. This is a good "carbon" compost filler, which should be alternated with layers of fast-decomposing garden and kitchen waste in the bookmark. Inside a properly planted compost bin, the temperature rises high enough to kill most pests and pathogens, if present. a small amount. After a year, the foliage in the form of compost can be returned under the trees and enrich the soil with nutrients that were formed after the foliage overheated.

A good solution would be to lay the leaves at the base of warm beds. In this case, it is better to mix the litter with grass and vegetable stems, moisten and add a little nitrogen fertilizers or manure. Under the top layer of soil, decomposition processes in such a bookmark will go on even in winter. Will be ready for spring excellent bed for planting cucumbers, zucchini.

Dry, healthy foliage is an excellent heat insulator. It can be used as a winter mulch in the flower garden and in the garden. Leaves can cover the base of the foundation, compost heap, wintering container plants.

Technical progress

It is great if the farm has a mulching lawn mower. With her

with the help, you can immediately turn dry fallen leaves into small cuttings, which will almost completely decompose over the winter. It can be planted in compost, raised beds or left in the garden.

Sheet cutting is an excellent mulch even for a lawn. If the lawn was covered with foliage from nearby trees, then in autumn it is enough to walk right through the foliage with a mulching mower and leave a mixture of leaf and grass cutting on the lawn. But whole leaves from the lawn should be removed so as not to cause dampness and the appearance of bald spots.

: autumn garden: a lot of things to do! Svetlana Vasilevna...

Fallen autumn leaves appear now in one corner of the garden, then in another. I really don’t feel like running for 2-3 months from apple trees to cherries, and then to mock orange, and every gardener at least once thought - to clean the leaves in the fall in the country or to entrust everything to nature.

If you have not yet decided on the answer to this question, let's figure out what happens in the garden with foliage during the autumn-winter period and whether you need these processes.

What happens to fallen leaves in the garden
If you think that it is not too late to remove the foliage in spring, but cold period it will lie quietly under the trees and become an additional mulch, then you make 5 mistakes at once:

Foliage is a poor material for mulch, because when wet, the leaves become caked and turn into a dense thin layer, which does not let air to the roots and does not allow the earth to evaporate moisture, that is, left without additional shelter The leaves help the plants die.
On fallen leaves, harmful insects most often lay their eggs, and their larvae also pupate. With the onset of spring, at the first rays of the sun, the pests will wake up from sleep, and they will not even have to go far for prey - the native tree or bush is already here, you can begin to grow and reproduce.
In addition, the leaves are often affected by fungal diseases - powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, late blight. The spores of their pathogens overwinter well and, once in the soil, disperse even more actively in your garden in the new season.
Bacterial diseases are less common in the garden, but their probability cannot be ruled out. Rotting leaves are a great environment for the spread of bacteria, and those that have arisen in winter sunburn on trees, they become that weak point through which bacteria enter a favorable environment and begin to destroy plants.
The leaves that have fallen on the lawn rot during the winter, but not alone, but along with a section of the lawn on which bald spots appear in the spring. The affected area will not be able to recover on its own, and you will have to first remove the dead grass, and then sow a new one.
Where to remove foliage from the garden and vegetable garden
Supporters of eco-farming adhere to the version that it is either not necessary to remove foliage from under apple trees, pears and other fruit trees at all, or it is necessary to compost heaps. We will reject the first version immediately for the reasons already listed, but we will consider the second in more detail.

So, composting fallen leaves can be considered reasonable only on the condition that your garden has absolutely healthy trees, and you have carried out all seasonal insecticide treatments in a timely manner. Are you sure that along with the foliage you do not put any spores of fungal diseases, or insect eggs, or harmful bacteria into the compost heap? Then feel free to layer the foliage with earth or manure and leave it - in two years you will receive excellent fertilizer.


But if you are not sure about the health of your own garden, then you should not aggravate the situation and it is better to take all the collected leaves outside the site and burn them.

If there is a forest area near your dacha, you can take the collected foliage there, but remember that this only applies to foliage - it is strictly forbidden to do this with garbage or household waste.

How to remove tree leaves
Even for such a simple, at first glance, business as cleaning up fallen leaves, certain skills and special tools are needed.

You will need:

Traditional rake;
fan rake;
wheelbarrow;
garbage bags with a volume of 100 liters or more or a spunbond sheet measuring 3 × 3 m;
gardening gloves

After you have prepared everything you need, choose a sunny day and get down to business. Tune in advance what the leaves are with different cultures fly around in different time, moreover, gradually, so a single cleaning will not work. It is impossible to postpone cleaning in the garden until all the trees and bushes are covered, if only because the snow may fall before this happens, and your site will remain uncleaned.

Use a traditional rake to gather the leaves under the trees and rake them into heaps.
Clean the area under the bushes with a fan rake.
You will have to remove fallen leaves from the lawns several times, and it is advisable to use a fan rake for this - they do not injure the grass so much and collect the litter more carefully.
Remove leaves from gutters, roof slopes, plums.
Fold the leaves collected in heaps into bags or use a wheelbarrow to bring them to a spread sheet of spunbond.
Carry the leaves to a fire, compost heap, or take them out to the forest.

Cleaning leaves is a physical job that requires not only effort, but also time. Many summer residents are interested in whether it is necessary to carry it out or leave the fallen leaves on the ground as they are? Let's figure it out.

Benefits of harvesting leaves:

• In fallen leaves, pathogens (fungi, mold, viruses) and many pests hibernate.
• Fallen leaves ruin appearance area - it becomes unkempt.
• Slowly decaying foliage on the surface can accumulate heavy metals, toxins, etc.

On the other hand, yellow-orange leaves lying on the ground also have an undeniable benefit to the site:

• Decaying leaves fertilize the soil.
• The foliage attracts worms, which structure and enrich the soil.
• Fallen leaves make an excellent mulch for most plants.

Based on the above, it is better to remove the foliage, and if necessary, partially use it for mulching.

If on cultivated plants there are signs of the development of diseases or pests, leaf cleaning must be performed without fail.

On the leaves in the winter, such dangerous diseases as:

• Powdery mildew (whitish bloom on the leaves, later turns brown).
• Scab (brown spots on leaves and fruits).
• Spotting ( brown spots with a characteristic border, holes are formed later).
• Coccomycosis (red-brown dots appear on the sheets, which gradually merge into larger spots).

Under fruit trees First of all, you need to remove the drop. Such fruits often fall prematurely. They can be affected by diseases and pests (rowan moth, codling moth, leafworm, sawfly, etc.).

Infected plant remains should not be placed in the compost heap. It is best to take them outside the site and, if possible, burn them.

Always try to remove leaves from the lawn. Under dense mulch of wet leaves lawn grass vanishes and partially dies. As a result, in the spring your lawn will “shine” with a scattering of bald spots.

With the onset of leaf fall, it is necessary to remove fallen leaves to maintain order once a week.

Tool

The following gardening tools are well suited for cleaning leaves:

1. The rake allows not only to quickly get rid of fallen leaves, but also to break up large earthen clods and level the surface. Optimal Width slats for garden cleaning is 20 cm.
2. Leaf forks are used when there is no rake at hand. With their help, it is convenient to remove heaps of fallen leaves and transfer them to a wheelbarrow or into bags.
3. The fan rake is specially designed to remove leaf litter without damaging the grass growing underneath (such as lawns).
4. Blowers allow you to quickly collect fallen leaves in heaps, which will then be easy to take out of the suburban area. They can be electric or petrol.

Application of fallen leaves

Collected fallen leaves from healthy trees can be used as fertilizer. To do this, it is desirable to grind it. There are 4 main areas:

1. The leaves are tightly packed in bags, they are poured with water on top. In several places, the filled bags are pierced and buried in the ground. Already in May, you will be able to dig them up and take advantage of the nutrient humus formed inside.
2. The collected litter can be used as a mulch for roses, chrysanthemums, winter crops and a range of perennials.
3. Old leaves can serve as an excellent filler for tall and warm beds.
4. Children can use fallen leaves to create herbariums or make impromptu bouquets.