Warm floor on the ground in a private house. Device, installation and connection to the network

When planning to make a warm floor in the house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first, pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is rammed, there will be movements. He lay simply, without load. If you lay a warm floor cake on top, and it weighs a lot, drawdowns will begin, cracks will appear. It can even break the elements of the warm floor. Then all the money will be thrown to the wind. That is why experts advise first to make a rough floor according to all the rules, and then lay a water floor on top. So much more reliable.

Yes, many have a warm floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful ramming, everything can stand well.

An example of a floor heating pie on the ground

First of all, we determine the level to which you need to remove the soil. The soil must be removed. If the humus layer or plant residues are not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell”. Therefore, you will make a draft floor or not, but you need to remove all unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers lying above with it. The rocks lying below are denser, firstly because they experience heavy loads, and secondly, because living beings and microorganisms live there less.

For the whole cake of a warm floor on the ground, it can take from 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking from the zero level - where the final floor will be located. Mark it, and then consider how deep you need to go. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

Warm floor on the ground is quite possible to do it yourself

The correct design of a warm floor on the ground is as follows:

• Remove fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully, and verified by the level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
• A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand is taken for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
• A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
• Pre-stretch. There are two options here:
  • Spill crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a ratio of 2: 1).
  • Fill in the black screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh of metal wire 3 mm, with a cell of 10 * 10 cm. Such a subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand heavy loads.
• After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the primer is dry, this is usually a polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two coats.
• Styrofoam plates (glue the joints with adhesive tape so that the solution does not leak).
• A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
• Underfloor heating fixing system and heating tubes, cables, etc.
• Underfloor heating screed, preferably reinforced.

Read about solutions and additives for underfloor heating here.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating cake on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the more. In the south, it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north, the more massive layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual rammers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in plates, its density is not lower than 35 kg / m3. For the northern regions, it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of boards. And lay them so that the seams of the lower layer overlap with the slab lying on top. Glue the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work with the foundation before starting all work. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire underfloor heating structure. It is necessary to put the same polystyrene foam in plates along the perimeter. In general, the idea behind hydro and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to isolate your floor from everything but indoor air. Then the heating will be economical, and the rooms will be warm.

The choice of thermal insulation is a key moment in the organization of a warm floor

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If the groundwater is high, the correct sequence of layers is not everything. You need to get the water out somehow.

If the depth of laying the underfloor heating layers turned out to be lower than the level of soil water, drainage is necessary. For him, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a system for draining water. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying heat-insulating plates, their joints must be glued with adhesive tape - so the solution will not flow into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. Layers are usually made three, but more can be. On compacted sand or soil with crushed stone, we lay a layer of geotextile. This is a modern material that will allow water to pass down and prevent different materials from mixing. It is not damaged by insects and animals, has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally equalize the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to take care of both the hydro and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. You can use bituminous mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations for these purposes. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is covered with expanded polystyrene plates.

Then there are layers of sand and gravel, and a rough screed is poured on them. Spilling with a liquid cement-sand composition in this case is undesirable. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it dries, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. With a high level of groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but welded waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Underfloor heating construction on the ground

Further, all the layers, as previously recommended: a heat insulator, a metal-coated hydrobarrier, and fasteners with underfloor heating pipes (or heating cables, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the finish coating used for the warm floor.

Results

Underfloor heating in a house on the ground is a rather complicated design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is needed. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, in extreme cases, get by with tamping the layers.

Photo gallery (7 photos):

The installation of a warm floor in itself is considered a complex engineering task. If the floor is in direct contact with the ground and serves as part of a liquid heating system, the likelihood of making a mistake increases significantly. Today we will talk about both the materials used and the phased device.

Laying a warm floor on the ground refers to complex engineering measures. This means that the contractor is responsible not only for the efficiency and long life of the heating system, but also for the normal behavior of the flooring under cyclic heating conditions. Therefore, act consistently and strictly follow the device technology recommendations.

Which pipes are suitable for underfloor heating

The first thing to do is to decide on the type of heat-conducting tubes. While the issue with the acquisition of the desired type of product is being resolved, you will have time to carry out all the necessary preparatory work. In addition, you will know from the outset the system for fixing the pipes, and you will provide everything necessary for this.

So, let's start with the rejection of pipes that do not have such a purpose as use in underfloor heating systems. This includes metal-plastic polyethylene pipes connected by a system of press fittings and PPR pipes for soldering plastic water pipes. The former do not perform well in terms of reliability, the latter do not conduct heat well and have high coefficients of thermal expansion.

Initially, a convenient and reliable mounting system for temporary pipe fastening is selected. It can also be a reinforcing mesh, to which the pipes will be tied with wire, but imagine installing in this way on an area of ​​​​100 m 2 or if suddenly several ties come off during the pouring of concrete. Therefore, a mounting underlay or rail system must be used. They are attached to the floor base while the pipes are not yet laid, then the pipes are fixed in the guides with clips or click-clamps.

The mounting system itself can be plastic or metal. There is not much difference in this, the only thing you need to pay attention to is how reliable the fixation is and whether the guides themselves can damage the pipes.

Finally, we decide on the material of the pipes. There are two types of products recommended for use in underfloor heating systems. For both, the mounting technology eliminates the influence of the human factor when bending and connecting.

Copper. Despite the increased cost, copper tubing is easy to install; soldering requires a bottle of flux and a gas burner. Copper performs best in systems of "fast" underfloor heating, which works in parallel with radiators, but not on a permanent basis. The bending of copper tubes is carried out according to the template, respectively, their fracture is extremely unlikely.

Polyethylene. This is a more common class of pipes. Polyethylene is practically not subject to fracture, but a special crimping tool is required for installation. Polyethylene can have different density, it is recommended not less than 70%. The presence of an internal oxygen barrier is also important: polyethylene poorly resists diffuse penetration of gases, while water in a pipe of this length can entrain significant amounts of oxygen from the external environment.

Soil preparation

When installing a warm floor on the ground, a “pie” is prepared, the thickness and filling of which are determined individually. But these data are important already at the first stage of work, in order to deepen the earthen floor if necessary and not sacrifice the height of the room.

In general, the soil is removed 30–35 cm below the level of the planned floor covering, taken as the zero point. The surface is carefully leveled in a horizontal plane, the geotextile layer is backfilled with incompressible material, in most cases, PGS is used for this.

After careful manual tamping of the bedding, preparation is carried out with low-grade concrete. For additional thermal insulation, this layer may consist of lightweight expanded clay concrete. It is important that the surface be brought out into a common plane located below the zero mark by the thickness of the cake plus about 10–15 mm more.

The choice of insulation

A floor pie with water heating consists of a heater tightly sandwiched between two layers of cement-sand screed. A fairly narrow range of requirements is imposed on the insulation itself.

Mainly compressive strength is normalized. Extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 3% or more is ideal, as well as PIR and PUR boards as more fireproof. If desired, you can use mineral wool slabs of brand 225 according to GOST 9573–96. Cotton wool is often abandoned due to the complexity of its installation and the need to cover the insulation with a hydrobarrier (polyamide film). It is characteristic that the minimum thickness of the plate is 40 mm, while when installing a reflective screen made of XPS, the thickness of the latter rarely exceeds 20–25 mm.

Foam polymer materials also serve as a good barrier to moisture migrating from the soil; they do not require a waterproofing device. Many may be put off by the questionable safety of styrene-containing material or the price of more expensive boards with complete chemical inertness (PUR and PIR).

The thickness of the insulation is determined by thermotechnical calculation. If the preparation used concrete with expanded clay as a filler, 10-15 mm XPS or 60 mm mineral wool will be sufficient. In the absence of insulated preparation, these values ​​\u200b\u200bshould be increased by 50%.

Preparatory and accumulating screeds

It is very important that the insulation is tightly clamped between two ties and that any movement or vibration of it is excluded. The concrete preparation of the floor is leveled with a preparatory screed, then insulation boards are glued onto it using tile adhesive under the comb. All joints are sealed with glue. If mineral wool is used, the concrete preparation must first be covered with a layer of penetrating waterproofing.

The screed layer above the insulation should be so thick that its total thermal conductivity is at least 3-4 times lower than that of the thermal screen. In the general case, the thickness of the screed is about 1.5–2 cm from the final height of the ceilings, but you can freely “play” with this value to adjust the inertia of the warm floor. The main thing is to change the thickness of the insulation accordingly.

The top layer of the screed, subjected to heating, is poured after the walls are enclosed with a damper tape. The filling of the accumulative screed can, for convenience, be carried out in two stages. On the first one, about 15–20 mm are poured with reinforcement with a rare mesh. It is convenient to move along the resulting plane and fix the pipe installation system, the remainder is poured to the zero level minus the thickness of the floor covering.

1 - compacted soil; 2 - sand and gravel bedding; 3 - preparatory reinforced screed; 4 - hydrovapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - reinforcing mesh; 7 - floor heating pipes; 8 - cement-sand screed; 9 - flooring; 10 - damper tape

System installation, proportions and loop pitch

The laying of underfloor heating pipes should be carried out according to a scheme previously thought out and drawn on the floor. If the room has a shape other than rectangular, its plan is divided into several rectangles, each of which is represented by a separate loop loop.

The same principle applies to floor zoning. For example, in the play area, tubes can be laid at a more frequent pace, and it is advisable not to lay them under cabinet furniture at all. In each individual coil of a rectangular shape, depending on the priority of heating, the tubes can be laid either in a snake or a snail, or a combination of options. The general rule is simple: the farther a specific point is from the beginning of the duct, the lower its temperature, on average, there is a drop of 1.5–2.5 ºС every 10 meters, respectively, the optimal length of the loop is in the range of 50–80 meters.

The minimum distance between adjacent tubes is determined by the manufacturer according to the allowable bending radius. A denser gasket is possible according to the “snail” scheme or with the formation of wide loops at the edges of the snake. It is optimal to adhere to a distance equal to 20–30 values ​​of the tube diameter. You also need to make allowances for the thickness of the storage screed and the desired floor heating rate.

The mounting system is fastened along the route of laying through the insulation to the concrete preparation layer, respectively, the length of the fasteners (usually plastic BM dowels) should be 50% more than the distance to the surface of the preparatory screed.

When laying the pipe, you should consider an improvised spool for unwinding, otherwise the pipe will constantly twist and break. When all the hinges are fixed in the installation system, they are tested with high pressure and, if the test results are satisfactory, the top layer of the storage screed is poured.

Inclusion of a warm floor in the heating system

It is recommended to lay whole pipe sections without joints in the screed layer. The tails of the loops can be reduced either to local collectors, or lead directly to the boiler room. The latter option is usually convenient when the heated floor is slightly removed from the boiler, or if all rooms have a common corridor, which requires indirect heating.

The ends of the pipes are rolled with an expander and connected by crimping or soldering with threaded fittings for connection to a manifold assembly. Each of the outlets is supplied with shutoff valves, ball valves with a red flywheel are installed on the supply pipes, and with a blue one on the return. A threaded transition with shutoff valves is necessary for emergency shutdown of a separate loop, its purging or flushing.

An example of a scheme for connecting a water heated floor to a heating system: 1 - a heating boiler; 2 - expansion tank; 3 - security group; 4 - collector; 5 - circulation pump; 6 - manifold cabinet for heating radiators; 7 - manifold cabinet of underfloor heating

The connection of collectors to the heating main is carried out by analogy with heating radiators, two-pipe and combined switching schemes are possible. In addition to the thermostat, the collector units can be equipped with recirculation systems that maintain a comfortable temperature of the coolant in the supply at about 35–40 ºС.

http://www.rmnt.ru/ - site RMNT.ru

When planning to make a warm floor in the house on the ground, it is advisable to make the structure in two stages: first, pour a rough screed onto the lower layers, and only after it has matured, lay all the other layers on it.

The fact is that the soil and, accordingly, all layers above it can sag. Even if the soil is compacted, even if it is rammed, there will be movements. He lay simply, without load. If you lay a warm floor cake on top, and it weighs a lot, drawdowns will begin, cracks will appear. It can even break the elements of the warm floor. Then all the money will be thrown to the wind. That is why experts advise first to make a rough floor according to all the rules, and then lay a water floor on top. So much more reliable.

Yes, many have a warm floor on the ground without a screed, and nothing sags. But not for everyone and not always. So think carefully. A warm concrete floor on the ground will be more reliable with a rough screed. If you still decide to do without this layer, install at least two reinforcing frames: the first under the heat insulator, and the second in the screed. Then, with careful ramming, everything can stand well.

First of all, we determine the level to which you need to remove the soil. The soil must be removed. If the humus layer or plant residues are not removed, they will begin to decompose and “smell”. Therefore, you will make a draft floor or not, but you need to remove all unnecessary. Moreover, the fertile layer is usually the loosest, and it will definitely settle and can pull all the layers lying above with it. The rocks lying below are denser, firstly because they experience heavy loads, and secondly, because living beings and microorganisms live there less.

For the whole cake of a warm floor on the ground, it can take from 20 cm or more (in some regions - much more). Therefore, you need to start marking from the zero level - where the final floor will be located. Mark it, and then consider how deep you need to go. It is advisable to mark the level of each layer: then it will be easier to navigate.

The correct design of a warm floor on the ground is as follows:

• Remove fertile soil, remove all debris and stones. Level and compact the remaining soil. This must be done very carefully, and verified by the level. This is the basis for all subsequent materials.
• A layer of compacted sand (level). Any sand is taken for filling. The main thing is to compact it well and level it again.
• A layer of expanded clay or crushed stone (crushed stone is preferable due to lower thermal conductivity). Fraction - small or medium. We compact for a long time and persistently until it becomes almost a monolith.
• Pre-stretch. There are two options here:
  • Spill crushed stone and sand with a liquid solution (sand + cement in a ratio of 2: 1).
  • Fill in the black screed. The desired thickness of this layer is 5-7cm. And for reliability, lay a reinforcing mesh of metal wire 3 mm, with a cell of 10 * 10 cm. Such a subfloor is more reliable. It will withstand heavy loads.
• After everything has set and the concrete has hardened, a layer of waterproofing is laid. If the primer is dry, this is usually a polyethylene film, preferably 200 mn in two coats.
• Styrofoam plates (glue the joints with adhesive tape so that the solution does not leak).
• A layer of metallized waterproofing (not foil, but metallized).
• Underfloor heating fixing system and heating tubes, cables, etc.
• Underfloor heating screed, preferably reinforced.

The thickness of all layers of the underfloor heating cake on the ground depends on the region: the colder, the more. In the south, it can be 2-5 cm, but the further north, the more massive layers are required. Each of them is well compacted and leveled. You can use manual rammers, but mechanical ones are much more effective.

Particular attention should be paid to the heat insulator. It is recommended to use expanded polystyrene in plates, its density is not lower than 35 kg / m 3. For the northern regions, it can be 10 cm or more. If the thickness of the thermal insulation is large (extruded polystyrene foam), it is advisable to use two layers of boards. And lay them so that the seams of the lower layer overlap with the slab lying on top. Glue the joints of each layer with tape.

To protect against dampness, do not forget to carry out waterproofing work with the foundation before starting all work. It is also important not to forget to isolate the foundation from the entire underfloor heating structure. It is necessary to put the same polystyrene foam in plates along the perimeter. In general, the idea behind hydro and thermal insulation is this: to reduce heat loss, you need to isolate your floor from everything but indoor air. Then the heating will be economical, and the rooms will be warm.

The choice of thermal insulation is a key moment in the organization of a warm floor

Process technology at high groundwater levels

If the groundwater is high, the correct sequence of layers is not everything. You need to get the water out somehow.

If the depth of laying the underfloor heating layers turned out to be lower than the level of soil water, drainage is necessary. For him, at least 30 cm below the required level, we make a system for draining water. It is advisable to pour river sand, but such volumes cost a lot, so you can use other rocks, but not peat or black soil. As an option - excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

When laying heat-insulating plates, their joints must be glued with adhesive tape - so the solution will not flow into the cracks

The selected material is poured in layers of 10 cm, each of which is compacted and spilled with water. Layers are usually made three, but more can be. On compacted sand or soil with crushed stone, we lay a layer of geotextile. This is a modern material that will allow water to pass down and prevent different materials from mixing. It is not damaged by insects and animals, has high tensile strength. Also, geotextiles additionally equalize the mechanical loads that the floor will experience.

At the same stage, you need to take care of both the hydro and thermal insulation of the floor from the foundation. You can use bituminous mastic or other modern and reliable waterproofing materials and impregnations for these purposes. And the thermal insulation is standard: the inner perimeter of the foundation is covered with expanded polystyrene plates.

Then there are layers of sand and gravel, and a rough screed is poured on them. Spilling with a liquid cement-sand composition in this case is undesirable. A rough screed is needed for reliability. After it dries, a layer of waterproofing should be applied. With a high level of groundwater, it is better to use not polyethylene, but welded waterproofing or polymer membranes. They are more reliable, although they are more expensive.

Further, all layers, as recommended earlier: a heat insulator, a metalized coating hydrobarrier, and fasteners with (or, for example). All this is covered with a metal reinforcing mesh and filled with another layer of mortar. And then - depending on the one used.

Results

Underfloor heating in a house on the ground is a rather complicated design. In order for it to be reliable, a rough screed is needed. If for some reason it is not possible to make a screed, you can, in extreme cases, get by with tamping the layers.

One of the most important aspects of repair and construction is the arrangement of floors. In a private house, this problem is more acute. Quite often they design a warm floor on the ground - a popular, popular solution to the issue. After all, it keeps heat well, creates comfort, sometimes replaces heating. To equip such a coating, it is necessary to strictly comply with the conditions of SNiP, installation rules, which is associated with soil shrinkage.

Laying the "warm floor" system

Warm floor on the ground - what is it?

Underfloor heating is like a multi-layer cake, which necessarily contains thermal insulation. The floor structure on the ground is done in two stages: a rough screed is poured in the lower layers, and after it has matured, the remaining layers are laid.

The point is in the soil - it has the properties of subsidence. Even when it is caked, compacted, after laying the "pie" of the warm floor, movements occur, and the floor elements may break. Therefore, first, according to the rules, a rough screed is made, then a warm floor is laid.

Sometimes a heated structure is made without the first screed - a warm floor is laid on the sand. This can be done if you install two reinforcing frames: one under the heat insulator, the other in the screed - you need to carefully compact the layers of sand, gravel, soil.

The device of the heated floor in the building depends on the soil indicators, which must comply with the standards. Groundwater should be no more than 600 cm from the soil layer. It is required that the soil has low indicators of friability, airiness. Construction is prohibited on chernozem soils, sandstones.

It is important to take into account the load that acts on the foundation. Floor installation provides the following:

1. Thermal insulation.
2. Ground water flood protection.
3. Elimination of external sounds.
4. Protection against ingress of water vapor into the floor.
5. Prevention of cracking.
6. Providing comfort to residents.

The composition of the floor system pie

For rooms, premises with an area of ​​20 sq. m use an electric, water method of floor heating. For small rooms (bathrooms) electric heating is more suitable.

Attention! When arranging and choosing the type of underfloor heating, it should be remembered that water heating requires a boiler, a collector, and much more. To connect a floor heating system to a central heating system, special permits are required, since installation in an existing system may lead to its incorrect operation.

By design, a warm floor on the ground consists of several layers, the installation of each is carried out in stages. Despite several methods of laying the structure, there are general rules that are followed in any case:

• Before laying the first layer of the pie, it is required to prepare the soil: clean it of debris, various objects, grass cover, level the surface.
• Well-compacted sand - 15 cm. A vibrating plate is used to compact the soil. Sand is compacted in a wet way.
• A layer of crushed stone (gravel) 8-15 cm. It does not allow groundwater to rise. Metal mesh that strengthens the screed. Rough concrete screed - 150 mm - with compensation distance between zones. In between there is a damper tape.
• Waterproofing layer to prevent moisture absorption by concrete. It is made from a film, a membrane. The material is overlapped, secured with tape. Bitumen-rubber mastic is also suitable.
• Insulation layer. To do this, use foamed polystyrene foam, foil polystyrene. Plates are used for high loads. The thickness depends on the climate conditions in the region.
• Waterproofing from a film, roofing material is carried out in 1-2 layers.
• Installation of floor pipes, finishing screed with a total thickness of 10 cm with mandatory reinforcement. A water circuit is attached to the grid.
• Decorative flooring.

The whole process of arranging the layers of the cake according to the technology can take up to 1.5 months.

Advantages, disadvantages of a heated floor

The floor heating system has its advantages:

1. Reliably protects from cold. After all, the soil under the floor has a positive temperature.
2. Choose any heater.
3. Film, roofing material is suitable for waterproofing.
4. The floor is finished with any coating.
5. When arranging, the entire load is directed to the ground, so calculations are not required. If the load is increased, the thickness of the cake increases.
6. Changes can be made to the design, for example, to make the thermal insulation thicker.
7. The warm floor is used as the main, additional, heating. Such floors warm up quickly, distribute the temperature evenly, which eliminates the occurrence of drafts.
8. The floors are well soundproofed.
9. Protect against the formation of mold, fungi, and other microorganisms.

Despite the large number of advantages, it should be noted and negative aspects. Such a floor reduces the height of the room, if the system breaks down, repairs will be expensive, difficult, the location of groundwater must be taken into account, the process of arranging the system on the ground takes a long time (it is advisable to carry out laying during the construction of the house).

• A warm floor on the ground in a private house can be arranged independently, having studied the entire technology of the processes. First, determine to what level the soil should be removed.

Attention! The soil must be removed - it will decompose, "smell" if it is not removed. Moreover, the top layer is very loose and will settle.

• Regardless of whether the subfloor will be laid, the soil is removed. The lower layers are dense, since there are no microorganisms there, and they experience a lot of stress.
• The thickness of the heated floor can be 20 cm or more. Therefore, the markup starts from the zero level, i.e., where the finishing floor is. Make a mark and consider how deep you should go down. It is advisable to note the thickness of each layer.
• A dense layer of soil should be carefully leveled, compacted, and checked for evenness along the level. After all, this is the basis of the following materials. Sand after careful tamping is also leveled. A layer of expanded clay, crushed stone is compacted to the state of a monolith.
• The first screed is made in two ways: crushed stone with sand is poured with a liquid cement-sand mortar, a screed up to 150 mm thick is poured. To reinforce the screed, a reinforcing mesh or metal wire is used. The floor is reliable, it can withstand heavy loads.
• The joints of the polystyrene boards are glued with adhesive tape so that the solution does not leak.

• Plates use above 35 kg / cu. meter. For cold regions, its thickness can be more than 10 centimeters. When the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is large, then two layers are made. Moreover, the joints of the 1st layer are covered with plates of the 2nd layer.

Heated floor pie installation options

Laying is carried out in several ways - the choice depends on the flow of groundwater, the type of heating system, loads, and other factors.

The floor pie has the main layer - a concrete subfloor (it is considered the main one). There is an option when the concrete layer changes to a sand cushion 150 mm thick. All work and the sequence of their implementation does not change. However, leveling the sand cushion is much more difficult.

depending on the heater

The variant of the cake varies from the selected insulation. For example, when choosing expanded polystyrene, laying is carried out as follows:

1. Crushed stone layer - 300 mm.
2. Concrete screed - 150 mm.
3. Waterproofing.
4. Polyurethane foam.
5. Finishing screed with steel mesh reinforcement.

When using mineral wool boards, which are considered durable, resistant to deformation, they are laid in two layers. To reduce the absorption of moisture, the plates are treated with a water-repellent solution.

With a high location of groundwater

When subsoil waters are close, then observance of the sequence of layers is not enough - water must be diverted. If the floor heating cake is laid on the ground below the groundwater level, then drainage must be done.

Therefore, at least 30 cm below the required level, a drainage system is made. They use river sand, other rocks, for example, excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

Important! For the device of the drainage system, it is impossible to use peat rocks of the soil, black soil.

The selected material is poured in layers of 100 mm, which are compacted, spilled with water. Three layers are made, geotextiles are laid on the compacted material. It passes water without mixing with different materials. It has increased strength, is not damaged by insects, animals, evens out the load.

Waterproofing is carried out with bituminous mastic (other material), thermal insulation along the perimeter of the floor foundation with expanded polystyrene plates. For reliability, they make the main screed, carry out waterproofing with membranes. Then the remaining layers are laid: heat insulator, fasteners, pipes. It is poured with a screed, the front cover is laid.

The warm floor of a private house is a great option that saves time and reduces costs. Competent arrangement of the "pie" of the heated floor provides warmth, home comfort for a long time.

Multilayer "pie" of the "warm floor" system on the sand:

Arrangement of the floor is one of the most important points in the repair or construction. And if we are talking about a private house, this issue becomes even more acute. In many house projects, floors are often designed on the ground, this is quite reliable and one of the most practical and inexpensive options. Currently, underfloor heating is becoming more and more popular and popular every day, so many people prefer this particular type of heating in the house. Reliable thermal insulation of the floor will provide warmth and comfort in it, as well as significantly reduce the cost of its maintenance. After all, warm floors perfectly retain heat in the house, create comfortable living conditions, and in some cases replace central heating.

What is a floor heating cake on the ground

Arranging floors on the ground, the obligatory moment is their thermal insulation, thanks to this, a multilayer structure is obtained, which is often called a warm floor cake. This design is in many ways reminiscent of a layer cake, as it consists of several layers. I would like to say that the construction of the floor on the ground largely depends on the condition of the soil. It must meet certain requirements. For example, the groundwater level should be at a depth of 5-6 meters, soils should not be loose, for example, sandy or black earth. In addition, it is necessary take into account the load on the floor. It should be noted that the warm floor cake should provide:

• thermal insulation of the room;
• groundwater protection;
• soundproofing in the house;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor inside the floor;
• provide comfortable living conditions.

What does a floor heating pie consist of on the ground

By its design, the floor heating cake on the ground consists of several layers, the laying of each layer occurs in stages.

Depending on the design features of the floor and some other important factors, the floor heating cake on the ground may have a different composition and different thickness.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating on the ground

Advantages:

disadvantages:

• underfloor heating, depending on the design features, can significantly reduce room height;
• in the event of a malfunction of this system, it is very difficult and expensive to dismantle the layers of the floor;
• sometimes it rather lengthy and complicated procedure, which is desirable to perform during the construction of the house;
• need to take into account groundwater position.

Options for laying a warm floor cake

There are several options for laying a warm floor cake on the ground. This may depend on the level of groundwater penetration, operational loads on the floor, type of underfloor heating and some other factors. The above option can be considered the main one, where as the main underlying layer is concrete layer. The cake is also laid in another way, where the concrete layer is replaced by a sand cushion, its thickness is 100-150 mm. The sequence is the same, although it is much more difficult to ensure an even base than with a concrete screed.

Depending on the thermal insulation materials, there may also be various options for underfloor heating cake. Choosing as a heater polystyrene foam, the laying of the pie will be as follows:

Excellent insulation - mineral wool boards, which have high density, resistant to deformation and durable. This material is recommended to be applied in two layers. For less moisture absorption, they are treated with a water-repellent composition. Used as an insulating layer in a warm floor cake and expanded clay. This is a fairly simple and inexpensive option. When laying the cake using expanded clay, as a heater, you can not lay additional waterproofing, also expanded clay replaces a layer of gravel and screed. There are some more pretty effective ways to lay a warm floor cake using some other heat-insulating materials.

Underfloor heating pie installation technology

Installed floors on the ground - this is one of the most successful options that reduces construction costs saves time and labor costs. A well-equipped floor heating pie will provide warmth, comfort and coziness in the house for many years.