Installation of sewerage in the country. Autonomous sewerage in the country: procedure

Modern man, getting out to the dacha to take a break from the bustle of the city, enjoy the singing of birds, breathe in the heady aroma of flowers and cut grass, still wants to be able to wash vegetables and fruits collected in the garden and in the garden with tap water, wash clothes in washing machine and indulge in philosophical reflection on a comfortable toilet, and not in a windswept booth. And in order for all these urban amenities to become available, a country sewerage system is needed.

Sewerage in the country is no longer a luxury, but a vital engineering system. What should she be? First of all, it is convenient and easy to use, environmentally friendly - so that untreated sewage does not enter the site and does not pollute the soil and water in the well, if any.

The sewer systems currently in use can be divided into 3 main types: storage tanks, septic tanks and deep water treatment plants. biological treatment. To do right choice sewers in the country, you need to figure out what they are.

The storage tank is a sealed container into which sewage is collected, as it is filled, sewage is pumped out using a specialized machine. The most ancient sewage system can also be attributed to the storage treatment system: a hole was dug in the ground, a toilet was installed on top, as the hole filled, its contents were raked out (mainly late autumn) and piled in a pile with manure from livestock, where the whole thing burned out until spring and organic fertilizer was obtained.

The cesspool is last century and hardly anyone wants to use it in their country house. modern device for collecting and storing sewage - a storage tank made of polypropylene or fiberglass (durable materials that do not lose their tightness over time, because they are not affected by corrosion and putrefactive bacteria), some manufacturers give a guarantee on their containers up to 50 years.

Much less often use concrete or metal drives. The minus of the first is the high complexity of the installation and the enormous weight, while the latter rust over time.

The advantage of country sewage in the form of a storage tank is that it is absolutely autonomous - it does not need to be connected to electricity (like more expensive systems), it does not allow sewage to pollute land plot, weighs little, so installation does not present any particular problems, in addition, the prices for drives are quite affordable for the summer resident.

The disadvantages of this design include the fact that the period of its use is limited (until it is full), it needs regular pumping out, and these are already additional maintenance costs and the advantage of light weight has a second side - deformations of the drive, especially empty, under the influence of forces are possible. soil heaving.

The storage tank is installed in the ground in several ways, for example, by anchoring it to a concrete slab or by filling it in cement-sand mixture. The first option is when the bottom is poured with concrete in the pit and a drive is attached to it, or a ready-made concrete slab (weighing about 2 tons) is brought, installed in the ground, and a container is placed on it.

The plate not only prevents the drive from being squeezed out of the ground, but also fixes it so firmly that soil movements do not lead to deformation. drain pipe and, accordingly, the violation of the sealing of the sewer network.

Cement-sand mortar is poured into the storage tank only on light and dry sandy soils, the mixture hardens under the influence of moisture and seals it like a shell. On heavy clay soils with a high level of occurrence ground water this method cannot be used - it is inefficient.

The cost of installing a drive depends on the complexity of the work and, most often, is equal to the price of the capacity itself. This type of sewerage in the country is quite in demand.

Septic tank with filtration field

The sewerage in the country house of the second type is septic tanks, to which filtration fields are attached. The septic tank is the same plastic container, like a drive, only inside it is divided into sections (from 1 to 3, depending on the complexity and cost of the system).

The cleaning process is based on the method of mechanical filtration: wastewater enters the first section through a pipe, where it settles, and as it is filled, the already settled liquid is poured into the adjacent tank through the connecting hole, where it settles again and, when filled to a certain level, is poured into the last chamber, from which practically pure water enters the drainage pipes located in the ground on a sand and gravel cushion - in the filtration field (if there are fewer chambers, then the settling process is reduced).

Anaerobic bacteria partially decompose organic sediment, so the septic tank is cleaned no more than once every 1-2 years (depending on the intensity of use).

In order for the sewerage system to cope with the processing of wastewater, the septic tank must have a certain volume. You can roughly calculate it this way: for a family of 2 people, a capacity of 1.5 cubic meters is enough, for 3-4 people you need a septic tank already 2 cubic meters in size. This is the case when the cottage is not equipped with modern household appliances: washing machines and dishwashers. If available, a multiplying factor from 1.5 to 2 is applied.

You also need to take into account not only the number of people permanently residing in the country, but also possible guests. With a significant increase in the discharge of sewage waste, the septic tank may not be able to cope with their filtration and an almost untreated liquid will enter the drainage pipes, which will subsequently be absorbed into the soil, poisoning it. Therefore, it is necessary to provide a margin of its power by 15-20%.

Unfortunately, with all the advantages of septic tanks, and there are many of them, on a small garden plot of 6 acres in size, you will have to install a smaller country sewage system (store or deep cleaning system), since when using a septic tank, you will need space for a container that is buried in the ground, a field filtration will also take up a certain part of the land (and nothing can be planted on it), and besides, if there is a well with drinking water, then according to sanitary standards it is impossible to place a sewer system next to it - no closer than 20 m.

For efficient year-round operation of the septic tank, it is installed below the freezing depth of the soil, and so that it is not squeezed out to the surface, it is fixed on a concrete slab with metal cables. The septic tank is mounted at a safe distance from other communication networks, but as close as possible to the place where the sewerage exits from the house. Drainage pipes laid also in the thickness of the soil.

Products on the market a large number manufacturers in different price category, so choosing a septic tank is not difficult.

Advantages of septic tanks: durability and low cost of operation, and they will cost much less than deep biological wastewater treatment systems. But on heavy clay soils with high groundwater in cold climates, the natural filtration process is very slow, so the filtration fields no longer work efficiently, and installing a septic tank is not the best option.

Increasing productivity

To increase the performance of the septic tank and improve the quality of wastewater treatment will allow the use of bacteriological additives. Over time, fat fractions, organics settle on the pipes, on the walls of the tank, the clearance in the pipes becomes smaller, the passage of wastewater slows down, and the system performance decreases.

If you populate special bacteria in the sewer, they will process organic matter, its amount will decrease significantly, and the permeability of even non-new pipes will remain at a high level, in addition, it will disappear bad smell.

Here are just a few bacteria for septic tanks that can survive in wastewater, where modern detergents are present (washing powder, bleach, dishwashing liquid), the colony will quickly die and you will have to buy additives again. But if you use gentle detergents, or buy bacteria that can survive in a very aggressive environment, then you only need a couple of packs of the product (first pour the contents of one package into the septic tank, and after six months add another pack).

Microorganisms will work for your benefit, processing organic matter that accumulates in containers, and if you have to pump out the sediment, it is very rare. Bacteria are absolutely eco-friendly and do not harm the environment.

Sewerage for a summer residence is pressing question for many summer residents who are trying to solve it on their own. But it is better to involve professionals in solving this problem - it will turn out both more efficiently and cheaper.

Deep biological treatment systems

And finally, the last most modern and efficient view sewerage - energy-dependent aeration systems of deep biological treatment. These complex plants use both anaerobic (without oxygen) and aerobic (with the participation of oxygen) methods of sewage treatment. It should be noted right away that they consume the minimum amount of electricity (on average, no more than 3 kW per day).

In some holiday villages there are power outages, and people are afraid to install such systems, because they are energy-dependent, but even in the absence of electricity, wastewater treatment continues in them, only the process slows down significantly and goes into settling mode.

Electricity is needed in order for the compressors that pump air into the system to work; under the influence of oxygen, intensive oxidation of wastewater occurs. Getting into the first chamber, sewage flows undergo mechanical and biological treatment. After the first phase of purification, the liquid enters the aerotank, in which the organic matter decomposes under the action of activated sludge.

Almost pure water mixed with activated sludge passes into the second chamber, where, under the influence of gravity, activated sludge precipitates (it accumulates in the stabilizer, from where it is subsequently removed, by the way, it does not have an unpleasant odor and can be used on the site as a fertilizer) , and purified water goes beyond the installation into the ground. The choice of a place for sewerage in the country can be anything, although, of course, it is best if it is located closer to the house and the drain pipe.

Such a system has many advantages: compact dimensions, no filtration fields, so there is nothing complicated in installation, the body is made of strong and durable plastic, it can be used in any climatic conditions (even in very cold climates). It works effectively on any soil and even high level the occurrence of groundwater is not a hindrance to her.

The biological treatment plant is very easy to operate and, although it requires regular maintenance to pump out excess sludge and flush the system, even the owner himself can handle this task, guided by the instructions, but it is still better to conclude an agreement with a specialized company and entrust this business professionals. This sewer system There is only one drawback - the high price.

The range of local treatment facilities for deep biological treatment is quite extensive, among them: Eurolos, Yunilos, Topas, Biopurit, Eco-Grand ...

Sewerage in the country is now being installed by many, because everyone wants amenities and comfort. Depending on the specific conditions, the most efficient cleaning system is selected, and, of course, specialists will help to make this choice, and they will also calculate the required capacity of the installation.

Call, managers of LLC "MosKomplekt" will advise you on all issues related to the installation of local treatment facilities in the country. Our employees in the shortest time and with a guarantee they will mount the necessary equipment, and your life in the country in terms of comfort will not differ from the city. We offer you comfort at the lowest price!

How much does a sewer installation cost? Without knowing the design features of the house and the relief of the site, the structure of the soil, the level of groundwater, it is impossible to name the exact cost. Order a visit from our specialist, and he will accurately calculate the full cost estimate for all types of work and offer the best solution.

The improvement of a private house is accompanied by the laying of communications, which form the basis of the comfort and well-being of the owners. Even temporary housing summer cottage- can not do without the simplest sewer system designed to collect wastewater.

Let's try to find out how the sewage system is equipped in the country with our own hands and what norms are fundamental.

As you know, dacha communities and suburban villages are located far from large settlements, so the owners garden houses there is no need to rely on centralized service. The way out is the organization of a separate local system for each suburban area separately.

In elite villages, powerful VOCs are often installed that can simultaneously serve several large cottages, but this is rather an exception to the general rule. More often hosts garden plots with an area of ​​​​6 to 15 acres, they manage with more modest budget devices - cesspools or simple septic tanks.

Scheme of the simplest sewer system in the country: simple internal wiring (sink + toilet), a straight pipe for domestic wastewater, a cesspool with an access road for special equipment

Both can be built from inexpensive building or alternative materials, such as:

• factory concrete blanks;
• red or white brick;
• cement mortar (to create a sealed monolithic container);
• tires.

There is another way, more expensive, but quite effective - installing a ready-made factory-made container made of modified plastic, equipped with a pipe for connecting to a pipe, ventilation and a technical hatch.

Digging a drain hole without creating a sealed tank is prohibited, as this is contrary to sanitary standards. Sewage, teeming with pathogenic bacteria and aggressive chemical substances, enters directly into the soil and groundwater, polluting them.

A variant of the device of a country street toilet. The cesspool partially extends beyond the "house", and the technical hatch for emptying the storage tank is located near the building - this makes it possible to do without a pipeline

It also makes no sense to install expensive biological treatment plants, since the volume of wastewater is likely to be minimal, and the treatment plant will more resemble the same storage tank.

So it turns out that the best option is a voluminous cesspool or a structure similar to a septic tank. On the large area there may be several cesspools, for example, a peat pit for an outdoor toilet and two drives - near the bathhouse and at home.

Possible sewer schemes

Depending on the number of residents, albeit temporary, the number of plumbing fixtures, the total number of drains, objects connected to the sewerage system, the schemes can be completely different.

All parts of the system have distinctive features:

• internal wiring;
• simple or branched pipeline;
• type of pit or septic tank.

Consider some of the most popular schemes.

A modern dacha bears little resemblance to a utility room or barn. The owners of even modest country plots are trying to build solid, reliable, roomy housing, so a two-story building has long ceased to be a rarity. The best option wiring for two floors is shown in the diagram:

The toilet and bathroom are located on the second floor (sometimes it's just a modernized attic space) and the kitchen downstairs. Pipes from plumbing lead to a riser located at the wall closest to the septic tank

In small one-story houses, a toilet + sink set is usually installed. The shower, if present, is located on the street, not far from the garden area.

Drains from the toilet enter the inner pipe, then go outside and move by gravity to the septic tank.

Scheme of the device of the riser and sleeve for the design of the transition of the pipe to the outside. The cross section of the line, as well as the riser, must be at least 100 mm, and the pipe fragment in the wall must be wrapped with a sheet of metal and thermal insulation

The cesspool is most often placed near the building, at a distance of 5-10 m. Less than 5 m is not recommended according to sanitary standards, more than 10 - difficulties may arise when laying the pipeline. As you know, to ensure the movement of effluents by gravity, it is necessary - about 2 cm per 1 m of the line.

Scheme of the location of the drain pit. This is the most popular option among summer residents, which is chosen because of its cheapness, simplicity of design and installation method.

Increasingly, instead of a cesspool, they are constructing a cesspool with overflow into a filter well. Vacuum cleaners will also have to be called, but much less often.

Diagram of a do-it-yourself two-chamber septic tank. The filter well receives partially clarified effluents and continues to purify them, transporting them through a sand and gravel filter into the ground

Common country sewerage schemes can be supplemented with branched internal or external wiring, connecting more waste disposal points, a more efficient septic tank, and a filtration field.

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Instructions for building a local system

There is no single plan for installing an autonomous sewer network, however, almost any system consists of three main stages - laying pipes inside the house with connecting plumbing fixtures, wiring outer pipe and cesspool devices (septic tank).

There are exceptions - for example, the complete absence of internal wiring, when all hygienic facilities are on the street (shower, toilet, washstand). Let's consider the full version.

Drawing up a project taking into account the norms

Half of the success is the correct design, which can be done in two ways: independently and with the involvement of specialists.

The first method is good when the construction of serious structures is not planned on the site - a septic tank, a pool, a filtration field, a filtration well. Suppose you are planning to build an outdoor “birdhouse” toilet, which simultaneously serves as a dumping ground for household waste, and instead of full-fledged sinks for washing hands and dishes, you decide to install an ordinary washbasin.

To build a toilet on the street, it is enough to dig a hole, equip it with a sealed tank, select the optimal structure scheme and conclude an agreement on regular waste disposal.

washbasin, like Summer shower, can be connected to a plastic storage tank installed on a hill, the water in which is heated by solar energy

If, however, the plans are to make complex intra-house wiring, mount a septic tank, lay pipes from the house, baths and summer kitchen, it is better to turn to engineers who will draw up a reasonable project based on the layout of the house and landscape features.

In any case, when constructing a drain pit or septic tank, it is necessary to be guided by SanPiN standards, according to which the distances from the waste collection tank to the nearest objects should be as follows:

The interval from the septic tank to the well (well) depends entirely on the composition of the soil: for clay soils - 25-30 m, for sandy and sandy loam - at least 50 m

When choosing plumbing and sewer equipment We also recommend relying on specifications and GOST standards that regulate the use of certain materials.

For example, for laying an external line, it is necessary to use only special (smooth and corrugated products made of PVC, PP or HDPE orange color). Fittings must match the pipes in terms of material and diameter.

How to make internal wiring?

The internal wiring diagram includes a network of horizontally arranged pipes, which are connected to plumbing fixtures on one side and to a riser on the other. The riser, in turn, is connected to the main line leading to the storage facility.

It is advisable to lay internal communications in the process of building a house - it is easier to equip holes in the walls and mask some parts of the internal pipeline.

By choosing high-quality polypropylene products and creating a hermetic decoupling, you can “sew” part of the pipes into the floor, leaving only technical hatches for maintenance

When installing pipes, it is very important to take into account the slope, since country houses usually do not use special equipment, and the movement of drain water occurs by gravity. The slope value is chosen based on the diameter of the pipes: for large (150 mm in diameter) pipes - about 8 mm / running meter, for medium (from 100 to 110 mm) - 20 mm / running meter, for products with a minimum cross section (50 mm ) - 30 mm/r.m.

Scheme of connecting the sink to the pipe. The optimal diameter of the pipes leading to the riser is 50 mm, the diameter of the riser itself is 100 mm or 110 mm

The order of connecting and assembling pipes may differ, but usually a riser is installed first, then pipes are brought in, and at the very end plumbing fixtures are connected.

If a gas or solid fuel boiler is installed in the country house and a hot water supply system is functioning, the minimum set of toilet + sink is supplemented with a shower or bath. Accordingly, the internal branch of the local sewer for giving in this case will be more difficult.

Fully equipped bathroom in a wooden country house. When choosing a shower enclosure, focus on more simple models that do not require strong pressure and high pressure in pipes

The final moment in laying the intra-house wiring is the installation of an adapter in the wall of the house, which is a metal protective sleeve. The ideal solution is to lead the pipe in the foundation of the house into a hole located below the freezing level of the soil.

Rules for laying external pipes

The choice of pipes of proper quality is not the only condition for the competent laying of the main line connecting the intra-house network with cesspool or septic. There are rules and regulations that must be followed when deepening communications into the ground.

The first rule concerns the depth of the trench: pipes must be laid below the freezing level so that the liquid sewer medium does not freeze and burst the pipeline with the onset of cold weather. On the other hand, the depth should not be too great, as it is necessary to withstand the slope - at least 2 cm / 1 m of trenches. It turns out that the difference between the depths of the beginning and end of a 10-meter groove will be 20 cm.

If the pipeline section has a length of more than 10 m, joints or bends, inspection wells must be installed at pipe joints and bends - to control and eliminate blockages

In order not to make trenches too deep even in the northern regions, pipes are laid at a depth of 50-70 cm, carefully insulating all sections.

As heat-insulating material use:

• polystyrene shell;
• foam boxes;
• basalt fiber;
• mineral wool;
• penoizol;
• foamed polyethylene;
• penofol;
• expanded clay backfill.

In the northern regions, to increase efficiency, materials are combined, for example, pipes are covered with foam insulation and sprinkled with expanded clay on all sides.

There is another way to heat - using. However, volatile insulation is optimal for houses permanent residence. For dachas, where they rarely visit during the cold season, ordinary insulation is sufficient. If the pipes still freeze and an ice plug forms, it is recommended to try to break through it with boiled water.

More about laying rules sewer pipes in the ground can be read in .

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Installation of a cesspool

The procedure and terms for arranging a drain pit depend on its type. For example, the installation of a factory-made plastic tank is carried out in 1 day, and the construction of a concrete monolithic tank, which involves the complete hardening of the solution, lasts at least a month.

Digging a pit can be combined with trenching and pipe laying. The pit is dug according to the size of the drive, but so that approximately 0.3 m is left on each side for processing and backfilling. The volume is chosen based on the needs of the residents.

One of the options for a cesspool from concrete rings. Usually for suburban use a tank of 2-3 blanks is sufficient, provided that it is filled to 1/2 or 1/3 of the volume (the level of wastewater should not rise above the inlet)

For excavation, construction equipment or shovels with buckets are used. After clearing the lower part of the pit, the bottom is reinforced with a drainage sand and gravel layer (from 20 to 40 cm thick).

If the tank is light, it is advisable to put a concrete slab on the bottom (or make concrete screed) and fix the container with anchors, giving it stability. For the same purpose, during backfilling, dry cement is added to the soil so that a reliable waterproof ring is formed around the container.

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Prefabricated structures - made of bricks, rings, cinder blocks - must be covered with two layers of waterproofing from the outside and inside so that the contents of the tank do not fall into the ground and do not mix with groundwater. One more important condition- installation of a ventilation riser that removes gases to the outside.

After installation and connection of the pit to the pipeline, backfilling is carried out and the neck is formed. The upper opening, which performs technical functions, is closed with a strong lid.

How is a septic tank different from a cesspool?

Many are interested in how to make an effective sewage system in the country so that the drain waters not only accumulate in the cesspool, but are also partially cleaned. The only way to make visits to the sewers more rare is to install a septic tank instead of a cesspool, factory-made or your own.

It is worth distinguishing between two types of septic tanks. Some of them really purify water up to 68 - 97%, because the purification process occurs under the action of anaerobic and aerobic bacteria. The lowest degree of purification is represented by systems in which wastewater treatment is carried out by settling and the action of anaerobes.

Stages of construction of a septic tank from concrete rings

Mounting treatment plant their cylindrical blanks passes through standard scheme. The process is simplified by big size details, however, for the same reason, there is a difficulty - the mandatory rental of construction equipment and the participation of a team of workers.

For the construction of a septic tank, 2 sets of parts will be required, since it will consist of two tanks. The function of the first is accumulative, the second is filtering.

The construction of a septic tank from concrete rings is carried out in several standard stages:

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Preparation of a pit according to the size of the structure

In the place indicated in the project, using an improvised tool (shovel), winch or mini-excavator, they dig a hole with a depth of 2-3 rings + neck. To the height of the assembled structure, 30-40 cm are added to the base device: 15-20 cm of sand + 15-20 cm of gravel (crushed stone, river pebbles). The drainage layer serves as a reliable base and filter "cushion".

The length of the pit should be such that two tanks are placed in it, connected by a short overflow.

Sandy soil at the construction site of the excavation can cause problems in the form of wall shedding. If there is no way to strengthen the walls, it is better to dig a wide hole, and after installing and waterproofing the septic tank, fill it with heavier soil containing clay

The soil should not be removed from the site - it will be useful for backfilling. The remains can be used to form landscape objects, such as flower beds.

Installation of concrete blanks

Concrete rings are mounted one on top of the other, fastened at the joints with brackets and sealed with special gaskets. Manufacturers have simplified the installation of the lower ring of the storage tank - they came up with a part with a blank bottom, which does not require additional weighting.

One or two more parts are placed on it, covered with an overlap with a hole, a neck is erected on top and a technical hatch with a lid is equipped.

The second chamber is equipped in the same way, but instead of a deaf lower part, a conventional ring is used. For a filter well, there is not enough drainage layer - it is necessary to make a dense filter with a thickness of at least 50 cm

Now there is no need for any individual calculations. The dimensions of the blanks are standard, and you can always find out from the manufacturer what volume of drains the selected combination of elements is designed for.

Waterproofing measures

A concrete septic tank made of individual parts must be covered with waterproofing. In practice, two methods are used: applying a protective material on both sides or applying waterproofing with outer side, and from the inside - only the finishing of the seams.

One of the protection options that is suitable for objects buried in the ground. A layer of bituminous waterproofing is applied to porous concrete, after which the walls of the parts become more durable and waterproof.

There are modern deeply penetrating materials that surpass the bitumen layer in terms of technical specifications(for example, Penetron), but they are more expensive.

Pipe connection and testing

A fully assembled structure is connected into a single whole and connected to a pipe leading from the house. To do this, holes are made in concrete blanks for overflow - a short piece of pipe, then the same hole - for the entrance of the sewer line. All elements are hermetically connected and covered with waterproofing. Take out the ventilation shaft.

To check the performance and tightness of the structure, the first container is filled with water. Then, when the first effluent enters the reservoir, a bioactivator can be used to make the waste recycling process more efficient.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To better understand the process of organizing a sewer system, we suggest watching helpful videos.

Secrets of laying outdoor pipes:

DIY internal wiring overview:

Important points when building a cesspool:

As you can see, certain engineering knowledge and skills are required to install an autonomous sewer at your dacha. If in doubt, it is better to seek help from specialists: there are many companies that successfully design and install local sewer systems.

Do you have experience with sewerage in the country? Please share good advice with our readers, tell us what you need to pay attention to when arranging autonomous system– the feedback form is located under the article.

If water is supplied to the house at the dacha, then, of course, you need to think through the sewerage. You will not endure sewage in buckets. But since country houses are usually used only periodically, in spring and summer or on weekends, the owners are not interested in installing ultra-modern types of sewage, for example, biological treatment plants, etc. They are interested in the simplest options with simple installation and minimum costs. The main thing is that the sewage system is reliable, excludes the penetration of effluents into the fertile land and does not require special maintenance. We will figure out in what ways you can install the simplest sewage system in your country house.

Before starting construction work, decide how you intend to discharge wastewater from the bathroom, kitchen and toilet - to one place or to different ones. The type of container into which the drains will flow will depend on this. If approached rationally, then the option of separate containers is more beneficial for the owners, because water from the kitchen, washing machine, shower, etc. can be released through a cesspool without a bottom into the ground. They do not pose a danger to the soil, because the bacteria have time to process the trapped effluents of washing powders, shampoos, etc.

Another thing - drains with feces. They should not be allowed into the ground, because you will create a lot of problems for yourself: you will violate the ecology of the earth, spoil the soil in the garden, and the worst thing is that these sewage will calmly fall into the groundwater and return with them back to the house as drinking water. For drains from the toilet, it is necessary to create an airtight cesspool or septic tank. In any case, it is not profitable for you if all the drains from the house will flow into this pit, because the tank will fill up quickly, and you will often have to call a sewage truck or pump it out yourself with a special fecal pump and take it out for recycling.

Important! If the main source of drinking water in the country is your own well, then it is forbidden to install any sewer without a bottom!

Sewage for drains from the kitchen and washbasin

The simplest option for local sewage is for drains from the kitchen and washbasin. It is usually mounted if the toilet is made on the street, or the owners have installed a dry closet.

As domestic waste are not considered harmful, it is enough to bring them out through the pipe system to the street, where a container without a bottom with filter material will be buried. Let's see how this can be done.

Option 1 - from a plastic can

If you live in the country only in the warm season, then the easiest way is to install a sewer from a plastic can and plastic pipes.

From the materials you will need an unnecessary old can with a lid with a volume of 45-50 liters, ordinary plastic sewer pipes with Ø50 mm and accessories for them (a pair of elbows, seals, etc.)

Let's consider how to make such sewerage in the country house step by step:

1. Pick up a place on the street where you will dig in a can so that the distance from it to the point where the sewer pipe exits the foundation is no more than 4 m.
2. Dig a hole a meter deep so that a can can fit freely there, and dig a ditch half a meter deep from it to the foundation.
3. Fill the bottom of the hole with layers of sand and expanded clay.
4. Drill holes at least 1 cm in diameter on the bottom and walls of the can (the more, the better).
5. In the place where the neck of the can ends, drill a hole for the entrance where the pipe will be inserted (exactly in diameter!).
6. Place the finished can in the hole.
7. P lay the pipes around the house so that the sewer starts under the washbasin, with the top of the riser located at a height of 40 cm from the floor. This is necessary to create a pipe slope of 4% for normal water flow.
8. Fix the riser to the wall behind the washbasin with a clamp.
9. When leading pipes through the foundation, it is best to drill a hole about 20 cm below ground level. Then in winter the pipes will not freeze if water stagnates in them.
10. Make sure that the pipe at the exit from the house is higher than at the entrance to the can. So you will avoid stagnation of water in the pipes.
11. If cutting a hole in the subfield does not work, you can make it above ground level. But it will be necessary to wrap the pipe (from the foundation to the entrance to the can) heat-insulating material to protect from frost.
12. Etc Check the created sewer for the quality of the water stack and the absence of leaks. To do this, turn on the water in the house and let it flow for a couple of minutes, while you yourself inspect all the knees at this time and make sure that the water has reached the can.
13. If everything is in order, you can fill up the trench with the pipe. First, throw in 15 cm of sand, and then fill in the usual soil. Level the surface with a rake.
14. A perforated can is filled up to the neck with gravel, expanded clay or river sand.
15. Car tires are placed on top of the filter material. The exact number depends on the depth of the hole. They can fit 2-3. Be guided so that the last tire peeks out of the soil by about half.
16. Fill the voids between them and the ground with soil and compact.
17. Close the can with a lid, and place a sheet of tin, slate or a wooden shield on the top cover.

Option 2 - from car tires

The sewerage from automobile tires is mounted in exactly the same way, only the hole is dug a little deeper (about 2 meters) and instead of a can, they are laid from the bottom to the top of the tire. The sewer pipe cuts at the level of the second tire from the top.

The pipe crashes into the second car tire from the top without sealing the inlet, because the septic tank itself is also created unsealed

Note! To use such a sewer all year round, it is necessary to deepen the trench for the external outlet of pipes by about a meter and pack them in some kind of insulation.

Sealed cesspool from a finished container

For fecal sewage in the country, they create the most airtight sewerage device, because the health of the inhabitants of this area depends primarily on this. The easiest way is to find a large capacity. They are sometimes written off by chemical processing plants. However, a barrel from fuel and lubricants, a milk tanker or a car that says “ Live fish". If you cannot find such containers, you can buy a ready-made plastic sewer well.

If you did not purchase a ready-made plastic container, but used an old one from fuel and lubricants, be sure to process it from the outside bituminous mastic to improve waterproofing

Advice! It is best to select a barrel with a volume of 3 cubes, since the sewage machine will be able to pump it out at a time.

Choosing a place for a container

Fecal sewerage should not be located near the cottage itself. The smallest distance from the house is 9 meters, and from a well or well - 30 meters. It is more profitable to install it near the edge of the site, so that it is easier for transport to pump out without driving around the entire territory of the dacha.

It is advisable to position the sewer hatch so that it is easy for the sewer machine to reach it along the path on the site, or to be located immediately near the entrance

Digging a pit

Digging a hole for a barrel by hand is quite difficult, especially if the groundwater is high. Then the water will arrive faster than you dig. Order an excavator for these purposes. The size of the pit should be such that the barrel fits freely, and only the inlet of the hatch remains on the surface of the earth. At the same time, a slight slope towards the hatch is necessarily made at the bottom so that solid particles settle in this direction. Then it is easier for the hose of the sewer machine to grab them.

Together with the pit, they dig a trench for laying external sewer pipes. Be sure to dig a trench so that there are no bends, because feces can get stuck in the places of turns and form traffic jams. If it does not work without turns, then the bending angle should not be more than 45˚.

Tank installation

They lower the barrel into the pit with the help of a crane, and if there is none, they call on the help of familiar men and, like barge haulers on the Volga, tighten it with ropes. The hole for the sewer pipe to enter can be cut at the top until the barrel is tightened, or after it is installed in the pit.

The container is not installed directly in the pit, but with a slight slope towards the hatch, so that it is easier to pump solid particles from the bottom

Note. If you put not a septic tank, but some kind of barrel, then it must be coated on the outside with bituminous mastic or any other compound that is usually used to treat the bottom of cars.

Pipe laying

From the tank, they begin to lay pipes to the house, maintaining a slope of 4˚, and then they perform internal sewer wiring. When the outer pipes are mounted, the trench is filled up. The voids around the container are filled with soil, ramming it. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on top, which will prevent the barrel from being pushed out of the frozen soil in winter. Pour around the top opening of the container concrete pavement and install a sewer hatch in it.

The entire cesspool is hidden underground, and only the lid remains on the surface. manhole, through which wastewater will be pumped

When a local sewerage system for a summer residence is created, do not be too lazy to make a street toilet with your own hands. If you have large companies in the summer, then it is better to send them there as needed, thereby saving on capacity resources.

If the cottage is used occasionally - field trips with barbecues and the like - then you don’t have to worry especially about comfort. One or two days can be spent in Spartan conditions. But if the cottage is used as a permanent place to relax in the warm season, you can’t do without a certain comfort. And first of all, sewerage and water supply are required.

A simple do-it-yourself sewerage system in a country house can be either an ordinary cesspool with the conveniences of a courtyard, a traditional wooden booth somewhere in the corner of the site, or a completely civilized and modern septic tank, or even a well made of concrete rings. Consider various options devices of the sewer system in a country house. And most importantly: how to make a sewer in the country with your own hands.

Most often, there is no centralized sewerage network in summer cottages. So the owners of the site have to deal with the sewage system on their own, individually on each individual site. In some cases, it is possible to negotiate with the owners of neighboring plots and arrange a sewer facility one for all, but usually this option is not very good: there are disagreements about who drained more and, accordingly, should pay more for pumping (if the sewerage device provides for periodic pumping), and there may also be claims against the piece of land allocated for the sewerage device (“I almost never use the sewerage system, but they cut off a whole hundred square meters from me!”). So it is still optimal not to cooperate with neighbors, but to build a completely individual sewer system.

The simplest option for a country sewerage system is a cesspool. In the absence of running water in the house, this is quite enough. However, if the volume of drains increases (for example, a family with children lives in the country, washing, washing dishes, and so on is constantly required), the cesspool can no longer cope with the load.

If the family is small and, accordingly, the plums are small, then you can get by with a septic tank - its construction is quite simple and inexpensive when it comes to small volumes.

And yet, the best option, which will always be relevant for both a small and a small family, and with periodic and constant use of the dacha, is sewerage in the dacha without pumping out concrete rings with your own hands. This type of sewage is durable, able to cope with fairly large volumes of drains, can be made by hand, without the involvement of expensive specialists.

It should be noted that any sewage system is divided into two types:

• internal sewerage system - it includes everything that is inside the house, that is, all places where plumbing equipment is connected (sinks, toilet, bidet, bath, shower, and so on), as well as plumbing lines and risers; this system should end with an outlet pipe, which is usually located below, at the foundation of the house; if the sewer system is a cesspool, then there is naturally no internal sewerage;
• external sewer system - it includes all pipes through which drains leave the house, as well as all facilities designed for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater (septic tanks, wells, etc.); in the case of, for example, a cesspool, the external sewer system is solely the pit itself for the accumulation of wastewater.

If your task is do-it-yourself sewerage in the country, then you need to start not at all with the purchase of materials and the selection of tools. The beginning of everything is the drafting of the project. Sewer system design is one of the mandatory milestones with sewerage. The project includes both internal and external sewerage systems, and therefore must be tied to a specific house and a specific site.

After the project is prepared, it is possible to determine the size of the pipes that will make up both the external and internal systems, as well as determine the necessary material for work (for example, pipe insulation and so on) and the type of collector.

It should be noted that the diameter of the pipes is easier and more reliable to determine using regulatory documents - they indicate the diameters required for various volumes of wastewater. This is a very significant point, since pipes make up the lion's share of the cost in the sewer country house system, and an error can lead to significant financial losses. So, if the diameter is insufficient, then the sewage system will simply choke, unable to cope with the required volume of wastewater, and if the diameter is too large, then the pipes will cost more - unnecessary, unnecessary expenses.

And also in the design of sewerage dacha system It is very important to choose the right place for the septic tank. This is especially important given the small size of summer cottages - you have to think about how to arrange a septic tank in order to comply with all the necessary conditions established by regulations, and at the same time not too reduce the usable area of ​​the site.

• the relief of the summer cottage - in order for the sewage to flow by gravity, the slope must be from the house to the septic tank, and not vice versa, otherwise you will have to install an expensive pump;
• depth of groundwater - the septic tank should not be flooded with groundwater;
• the depth of soil freezing in the cold season - the septic tank must be above the freezing point, otherwise the sewer may be clogged with ice;
• the location of the water source or drinking water pipeline - in accordance with sanitary standards and rules, the distance from the source of drinking water must be at least 30 m;
• the location of fruit trees and shrubs, as well as a garden - in accordance with sanitary standards and rules, the distance from fruit trees, shrubs and a garden should be at least 3 m;
• the location of the house - in accordance with sanitary standards and rules, the distance from the septic tank to the house should not be less than 5 m;
• soil composition - excessively hygroscopic soil can provoke pollution of groundwater with sewage.

It should be borne in mind that if the septic tank is located at a distance exceeding 15 m from the house, then difficulties may arise in the installation of the main pipeline - it will be necessary to install an inspection well, the pipes will need to be buried in the ground more than usual, and the number of earthmoving works increases, and, therefore , the complexity of the entire process of arranging country sewerage also increases.

You can start installing the internal sewer system immediately after drawing up a plan and purchasing all the necessary materials and components. First you need to install a central riser. The optimal diameter for it is 110 mm, while it is necessary to provide for the removal of gases. Usually, for this purpose, the upper part of the riser rises up - either to the attic, or is displayed on the roof. Conclusion to the roof is more preferable: it is still better for the gases to immediately leave the house than to accumulate in the attic.

It must be borne in mind that, in accordance with the regulations, the main riser must be located at least 4 m from the nearest window. Such a requirement limits the number of rooms in the country where the riser can be located, and you need to know this before starting the installation of the system.

Pipes for the internal sewer system are selected not only by diameter, but also by the material of manufacture. Three options are currently offered:

• pvc pipes- very affordable prices, which attracts consumers, are sufficiently durable, lightweight, the inner surface is smooth and water passes easily, corrosion resistant, do not overgrow inside, very easy to install. Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country is usually performed using PVC pipes;
• cast iron pipes - time-tested classic version, the material is reliable, durable, however, not too corrosion resistant, the inner surface loses its smoothness over time, which prevents the passage of sewage, special welding equipment is required for installation, and the price is far from democratic;
• ceramic pipes - combine all the advantages of PVC and cast iron pipes, have excellent characteristics ranging from smoothness to resistance to chemically aggressive environments, however, they have very high cost, which is not too good for a small cottage.

Based on the price / quality ratio, as well as taking into account the requirements for ease of installation when installing a sewerage system in a country house with your own hands, PVC pipes are most often chosen - lightweight, fairly durable, chemically resistant and inexpensive.

After the installation of the main riser, you can start laying horizontal pipelines. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the presence of inspection hatches - so that, if necessary, it is possible to control the sewer system, and most importantly, to clean it. Inspection hatches are usually arranged above the toilet, as well as at the lowest point of the entire sewer system (this is where traffic jams most often occur).

When mounting pipes, you should pay special attention to the corners of the joints: right-angle turns make it difficult for wastewater to move, and in this case, plugs begin to accumulate at the joints, even the famous smoothness of PVC pipes does not save. It can get to the point that it will not be possible to throw it into the toilet and toilet paper- so that it does not serve as the germ of a cork until it dissolves.

Required condition: each plumbing fixture, whether it be a toilet bowl or a sink, must have a siphon with a water lock, otherwise unpleasant odors from the sewer network will constantly penetrate into the room.

The pipe for connecting the toilet pipe must be at least 10 cm in diameter, and the connection is made directly. At the same time, a diameter of 5 cm is enough to connect the sink and / or bath. The angle at which the pipes are laid must ensure gravity flow.

Note that usually the sewerage system is planned in advance, even at the stage of building a house, and in this case, the architectural plan immediately provides a place for the sewer pipe to go outside, through which wastewater leaves the house into a well or septic tank. This is a hole located in the foundation.

However, it happens that it is necessary to arrange sewage in an already built house, where there is no hole in the foundation for laying a drain pipeline. Usually in such cases it is necessary to make an extension to the house in order to place a bathroom there, and a place for a drain pipeline is laid in the foundation of this extension.

At the point where the sewer system leaves the house, a check valve must be installed, otherwise, under certain conditions, wastewater can enter the house (slight slope, well overflow, groundwater penetration into the well, and so on).

Regulatory requirements

There are a number of regulatory requirements stipulated by SNiP that must be observed when constructing a sewer system in the country:

• pipes made of different materials cannot be used in the same piping system;
• it is necessary to ensure the complete tightness of the pipeline (especially carefully check the joints);
• the junction of the main sewer system and the main riser must be made only with an oblique cross or tee;
• with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, the slope should be 0.2 cm per 1 linear meter; with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, the slope should be 0.3 cm per 1 linear meter;
• it is necessary to ensure the discharge of sewage by gravity - one of the requirements for the sewer system country houses lack of pressure;
• the connection of the sewer line to the main riser can only be open, the rest of the pipeline can be mounted in a hidden manner.

A septic tank is usually installed in cases where there is no centralized system sewerage in the village - then the internal sewerage system is connected directly to the septic tank.

A septic tank is a device in which sewage is collected and then treated. Septic tanks can differ both in the material from which they are made, and in the method of wastewater treatment (for example, settling, the use of special bacteria, and so on), as well as in design.

Even at the stage of drawing up a plan for the sewer system, it is necessary to decide where, in the end, wastewater will fall. If a septic tank is chosen, then various containers (plastic and metal), as well as a variety of reinforced concrete structures, can be used for its device. It happens that a septic tank is made of brick - the most expensive and difficult option.

The most common wastewater treatment option for a country house is soil filtration in combination with biological treatment. That is, special bacteria are placed in the septic tank, which contribute to rapid decomposition, and then the wastewater that has passed the primary filtration seeps into the ground (a special field is left for this), where it is finally cleaned. Sometimes sewage simply accumulates in tanks, and then pumped out and taken out by sewers. The device of a septic tank with the possibility of pumping out is much simpler and cheaper than a septic tank with filtration, but the problem is that it is not always possible to order a sewage truck for a summer cottage, and in some cases it is not possible to reach the pipe to the septic tank to pump out sewage. Therefore, you have to go along a more expensive initially, but more convenient way to operate - a septic tank with partial wastewater treatment.

A two-chamber septic tank is a tank consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe.

The easiest way is to purchase the appropriate container - now on sale there is a fairly wide selection, various sizes and various materials manufacturing. However, even the simplest two-chamber septic tanks are unreasonably expensive when it comes to sewerage in the country. Therefore, it is much cheaper to make such a septic tank yourself - from concrete. If desired, and there is space for a sufficiently large septic tank, you can make not only a two-, but also a three-, and four-chamber septic tank. How more cameras- topics better cleaning Wastewater. Multi-chamber septic tanks are made in the same way as two-chamber ones.

A prerequisite: there should be no trees near the septic tank, as the root system can damage the walls of the septic tank.

• in the planned place, a pit is dug 3 m deep, the dimensions of the pit are calculated in advance (the planned volume of wastewater is taken into account);
• a sand cushion is arranged at the bottom of the pit (up to 0.15 m high);
• formwork is installed (usually made from boards, but it can also be made from chipboard);
• fittings are installed (metal bars and steel wire);
• at the planned places in the formwork, holes are punched for the entrance of the sewer pipe external system, as well as for the subsequent installation of the overflow pipe, pipe cuts are inserted into the holes so that these holes are preserved even after pouring concrete;
• concrete is poured into the pit and its uniform distribution, it is recommended to fill it at a time - this ensures the solidity of the structure;
• the first compartment of the future septic tank is completely poured with concrete, the bottom is also concreted - this compartment is designed to settle wastewater, and water should not enter the soil from it, anaerobic bacteria are subsequently placed in the same compartment;
• there is no bottom in the second compartment - from it, wastewater that has undergone primary treatment enters the soil for final treatment; this compartment can be made in the same way as the first one - by pouring concrete into the formwork, or it can be made of concrete rings (the diameter of each ring is at least 1 m), a gravel pad is placed at the bottom of the compartment, which serves as a filter for wastewater;
• after both compartments of the septic tank are arranged, they are connected by an overflow pipe, which must be installed in the upper third of the compartments at an angle (to ensure gravity flow) of about 0.3 m per 1 linear meter of pipe;
• the last stage is the device for overlapping the septic tank; it can be made of concrete (pouring into the formwork) or from ready-made reinforced concrete slabs; the ceiling must have a hatch to control the filling of sections, as well as an exhaust hood so that gases that can be combustible do not accumulate in the sections.

If the sewer system is actively operated, then not all wastewater has time to go through a full cleaning cycle and get into the ground already clarified - most of it remains in the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to periodically clean the septic tank, but such cleaning is required no more than once every two to three years.

The simplest and cheapest option is to install a two-chamber septic tank from concrete rings, and not pour concrete into the formwork. In this case, you will have to worry about sealing the joints of the rings with each other, but the structure itself turns out to be more reliable if both sections of the septic tank are wells made of rings, one of which has a sealed bottom, and the second has a sand and gravel filter pad.

It should be noted that if there is clay soil, as well as with a close location of groundwater near the surface, the installation of a septic tank-well is not possible. In this case, you will have to install some kind of sealed container in the pit. Usually tanks are purchased for this purpose.

outdoor system sewerage - this is the main pipeline that departs from the house and leads to the septic tank. Mandatory requirement: the presence of a sufficient slope so that the flow of water can be carried out by gravity (usually the angle of inclination is about 2º). You should be aware that an increase in the diameter of the pipes leads to a decrease in the angle of inclination. Another mandatory requirement: pipes must be buried in the soil below the freezing point of the soil. If this is not possible (for example, the depth of soil freezing is very large, or groundwater comes too close to the surface, or there is monolithic slab, rocky soil and so on), then the pipes need reliable thermal insulation.

In the climate of the Central Russian zone, it is usually enough to deepen the pipeline by 1 m, in warm regions the trench depth can be no more than 0.7 m, but in cold regions it is necessary to deepen the pipeline by 1.5 m or even more.

At the bottom of the trench, a sand cushion is arranged, which serves as protection against soil movements (during sudden changes in temperature, during heavy rains, and so on).

It is optimal if it is possible to lay the line in a straight line directly to the collector, but in small areas it is often necessary to make turns. In the place where the turn is made, a viewing well is arranged.

For laying the external line, both PVC pipes and cast iron pipes are used. If the sewer is made by hand, then it is better to use PVC pipes - they are easy to install, which cannot be said about cast iron pipes. In addition, PVC pipes are also resistant to icing - an ice plug can lead to pipe swelling, but almost never to a rupture, but a cast-iron pipe can burst with a good ice plug.

The external sewage pipeline mounted in the trench is covered with sand - the sand must surround the pipes from all sides, and then with the soil removed earlier from the trench.

Regular pumping of sewage from a septic tank can be a problem for suburban area, therefore, it is optimal to install a septic tank of a design that does not require pumping.

A two-chamber septic tank is quite suitable for this, but for more reliable cleaning and if there is space, a three-chamber septic tank can also be installed. How to make such a septic tank with your own hands is described above.

It should be borne in mind that the first tank, which is a sump, is made the largest (for a two-chamber septic tank, the size of the first tank is ¾ of the total volume of sections, and for a three-chamber septic tank - 0.5).

In order not to require pumping, a filtration field device is necessary - places around the septic tank where clarified wastewater seeps. You need to know that garden crops cannot be planted on the filtration field, fruit bushes. In such a place, it is only possible to plant decorative flowers - but nothing edible!

The only thing that this type of septic tank requires is periodic maintenance to remove insoluble sediment. For this, a fecal or drainage pump is usually used.

How to determine the size of a septic tank

The size of the septic tank is determined at the stage of drawing up a plan for the sewer system and depends on the planned volume of wastewater, which, in turn, is determined by the number of people permanently residing in the house. In accordance with normative documents, the rate of water consumption of one person is 200 l / day. In order not to be mistaken, it is recommended to add to normative indicator another 20%. If the house is often visited by guests (except for permanent residents), then it is recommended to increase the estimated number of residents by 1-2 people when determining the size of the septic tank - it is better if the capacity is larger than if it overflows.

Concrete rings are an excellent material for making a septic tank for a sewer system in the country. They are inexpensive, and even a non-specialist can work with them, which significantly reduces the cost of all sewerage works.

The main advantages of a septic tank made of concrete rings:

• low cost of raw materials;
• ease of operation;
• durability;
• possibility self-assembly the entire device.

The disadvantages of such a septic tank usually include:

• an unpleasant smell near the septic tank - this kind of septic tank is not completely sealed, so the smell leaks out, in a small summer cottage this can be a very significant negative factor;
• the need for periodic cleaning of wells from insoluble sediment - the frequency of cleaning is reduced when anaerobic bacteria are used.

How to arrange a septic tank from concrete rings is described above. The only caveat: it is recommended to order equipment for digging a pit - this significantly speeds up work than digging a pit manually. However, it is far from always possible to use the services of an excavator - the street of the holiday village is too narrow, too small plot etc. In this case, you have to use traditional shovels.

And also there may be problems with the installation of rings. This task can also be done manually by digging under the bottom ring, but this method is rather difficult.

So that the tightness of the wells is not violated in the event of any movement of the soil, it is recommended to fasten the rings together not only with a solution, but also with metal brackets or plates.

After the rings are installed and firmly connected to each other, the outer surface of the wells is treated with waterproofing. Usually, either coated or welded waterproofing is used.

Often, to reduce the cost of country sewage and facilitate installation, both plastic and metal barrels are used instead of concrete rings. The only requirement for barrels is their tightness. And also, the low corrosion resistance of metal drums should be taken into account, so they must be treated accordingly, which increases the cost of the sewer system.

The advantages of plastic barrels include the following factors:

• a large assortment various plastic barrels, from which you can choose the capacity of the required volume;
• high resistance of plastic to aggressive chemical environments and biologically active environments;
• low weight of plastic barrels, which greatly simplifies the process of building a sewer system;
• no need for anti-corrosion treatment, which saves not only time and effort, but also a significant amount;
• durability.

The disadvantages of plastic barrels include what is considered a plus - their low weight. The fact is that spring floods or frosts in winter can lead to the barrels being simply squeezed out to the surface. Therefore, it is not enough just to install the barrels on the base, they must be fixed on this base with cables.

Metal barrels are considered more durable, so they are often used for country sewerage. However, it should be noted that the service life of such a sewer system is short - due to the low corrosion resistance of metal containers, appropriate treatment improves the situation, but does not completely solve the problem. The normal service life of metal drums, even treated with anti-corrosion compounds, is about 4 years. The only reliable option: containers made of of stainless steel, but they are extremely expensive and clearly unprofitable for giving.

Who would refuse a country house in the countryside? Nature, fresh air, natural products and, if possible, the amenities that we are so used to - water supply and sewerage.

But not every rural area has such a service. In houses where there is running water, sewerage is not always installed.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country is a laborious, but necessary task. It is feasible for anyone who has experience in construction work.

Before you learn how to make a sewer in the country, you should understand the intricacies in order to avoid mistakes.

Preparatory work

The device of the sewer system is a complex mechanism that consists of separate parts:

1. Internal sewerage is represented by a pipe system inside the building. Its function: to remove wastewater from plumbing to the external sewer.
2. External sewerage - a system of pipes that drain waste dirty water from the building.
3. Treatment or storage device where wastewater is treated or stored for later disposal.

Installation of sewerage begins with the development detailed diagram. It will help you figure out what materials to buy and how much work you need to do.

The sewerage scheme in the country reflects:

• Domestic sources of waste water. This includes a bath, shower, bath, sink.
• Method of connecting and laying pipes inside the building: hidden in the wall or under the casing, brought out.
• A place in the house where the sewer is brought out into the street;
• The trajectory of the external sewage system;
• Installation location of the sewer. Minimum distance from the house - 5 meters, from a source of natural water supply - 30 m, from trees and bushes - 3 m;
• Collector type (biological treatment plant, drain hole, septic).

When drawing up a diagram, one should take into account a number of factors that affect the type and design of the sewer:

1. depth of groundwater;
2. the depth at which the earth freezes in winter;
3. soil type and condition;
4. landscape around the house;
5. plumbing in the area.

For information about the soil, study documents on geodetic surveys. If there are none, ask neighbors or indigenous people.

The choice of collector depends on the data that you receive, and on the type of soil. If sand predominates in it, then the earth easily passes drains. Getting into groundwater, they pollute the environment. Therefore, it is better to use a collector with a bottom.

A cesspool without a bottom is not suitable for soil with a high concentration of clay. The rock does not conduct moisture well, which leads to an early silting of the sewer.

Installation of sewer pipes is carried out below the freezing level of the soil. Otherwise, they will freeze and cause damage to the drain system.

When developing a sewerage scheme, take into account that the water supply does not intersect with sewer pipes.

Arrangement of internal sewerage

Guided by the developed scheme, buy building material. As for pipes, choose products of your choice:

1. PVC pipes. They are impact resistant chemical substances, do not rust, do not overgrow and do not create obstacles for the movement of runoff water. Material prices are reasonable.
2. Cast iron pipes. Differ in durability and durability. The disadvantages include: weight, complex installation, price.
3. Ceramic pipes. This is the best option for domestic sewage. The only downside is the price.

Installation of sewage inside the house begins with the installation of a central riser with a radius of 5.5 cm at a distance of 4 meters from the windows. After that, a horizontal pipeline is laid.

When installing pipes, try not to make straight turns, as this will complicate the transport of wastewater. If this cannot be avoided, then it is better to use 2 corner elements of 45 degrees.

To connect the sink and bathtub, a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm is enough. To connect the toilet, choose a product with a diameter of 10 cm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in the country house involves a hole in the foundation of the house, which serves to bring the drain system to the street.

At the outlet, it is mandatory to install a check valve that prevents the return of sewage back.

Which sewer to choose: common or separate

At the beginning of construction, it is important to decide where the wastewater from the kitchen, bath and toilet will be discharged: into one collector or into different ones.

As practice shows, it is economically profitable to make a separate sewage system. Waste water from the kitchen, bathroom is not considered dangerous for environment. Therefore, a cesspool without a bottom is suitable for her.

For drains from the toilet, a sealed cesspool or septic tank is made.

One pit for drains will be expensive. The fact is that it fills up quickly and requires regular pumping.

Types of sewer system

The classification of sewer systems is based on the type of sewage facility:

1. simple drain pit;
2. septic tank;
3. local treatment plants.

The choice of the type of sewage depends on the frequency of use, on the number of family members, on the possibility of frequent pumping of wastewater, on the toilet in the house or on the street, and other factors.

Simple drain pit

This type of sewer system is easy to install and does not require regular pumping. It serves to remove wastewater from the kitchen and bath.

These drains are not dangerous for humans and nature, so the sewerage device is considered simple: a pipeline and a buried structure without a bottom with a filter.

The principle of operation of such a sewage system is as follows: penetrating with water, large particles are retained by the filter, and the water is absorbed into the soil and again enters our water supply.

Making a cesspool is not difficult. For construction use brickwork or reinforced concrete.

Sewer installation is carried out in stages:

1. Choose a place for the pit on the site. Be guided by the fact that the distance from the pit to the house was 4 meters. Considering that the structure is periodically cleaned of dirt and silt, place the pit in a place convenient for these purposes.
2. Dig a hole in the area for the drain structure and from it a ditch 0.5 meters deep to the foundation of the house.
3. Install and run the pipeline in such a way that the pipe at the exit from the house is higher than at the entrance to the drain facility.
4. At the bottom of the pit, make a filter in the form of a two-layer mound of sand and expanded clay.
5. Check how the sewer works. Turn on the water and watch for 5 minutes if there are any leaks.
6. Backfill the trench 150 mm with sand and then with soil. Lay the sod.
7. Close the drain with a lid.

This sewer does not need constant maintenance. But during the spring floods, "keep your eyes open." There is a risk that flooding will occur due to rising groundwater levels. In this case, the system requires immediate pumping.

septic tank

This device is used to collect and treat wastewater. It can be of different types depending on the design, method of cleaning and material. Wastewater treatment in the facility is carried out by means of soil filtration and anaerobic bacteria.

You can buy a septic tank at a building materials store or save money and make it yourself. The downside of a drain facility is the need for regular pumping.

Before you run a pipeline for drains on the site, decide: brick, reinforced concrete, plastic or metal containers.

Sometimes a sealed container is installed on the site, in which sewage accumulates. Such a system requires regular pumping, which causes a lot of trouble.

To perform pumping, a sewage equipment is called in, which costs a lot of money. More thrifty and practical owners of summer cottages use special pumps for pumping.

Scheme of the constituent parts of the sewer machine

Most convenient option a collector with two chambers connected by a pipe is considered. It does not require too frequent pumping, since part of the treated wastewater passes from one chamber to another, where it passes through the filter and is absorbed into the soil.

The service life of the device directly depends on the quality of these cameras. They are subject to the following requirements:

• tightness;
• Resistance to aggressive substances;
• Resistance to temperature extremes and mechanical stress.

DIY septic tank

To build a septic tank, follow the installation instructions:

1. Dig a pit. If the territory has a natural water supply in the form of a well, then it will be correct to dig a hole at a distance of 30 meters from it.
2. Make a formwork by dividing the pit into 2 unequal parts. ¾ of the structure falls on the sump, where wastewater treatment takes place.
3. Concrete the base of the larger compartment;
4. Make the bottom of the smaller compartment deeper and fill it with rubble;
5. Concrete the septic tank using reinforcing mesh;
6. Make 2 holes for the overflow pipe between the chambers and for the exit of the sewer pipe.
7. Close the septic tank with a lid and install a ventilation pipe.

When constructing a sewer, it is important to properly install the pipeline. Plastic pipes are in demand. To prevent stagnant water from destroying the septic tank and plumbing for drains, lay the pipes at a slight slope towards the drain structure.

It is recommended to carry out the installation of the sewer line along a flat path, avoiding turns. Otherwise, consider installing manholes. They will allow you to independently clean the system in case of blockages.

Treatment plants

If you have a large amount of money, then you can not produce. On the market you can find models of treatment plants for every taste.

With the purchase of this facility, you will make your life easier. You will not have a headache about repairing sewers, pumping out sewage and other issues. Masters will arrive, install the station, and you can safely use this result.