Tree peony in Siberia. When and how to plant peonies in open ground: step by step instructions

Peonies are perennial plants that, with proper care, live up to 10 to 15 years or more. Peony is one of those plants that is considered a true decoration of the garden. The plant is grown for cutting and for decorating flower beds. This powerful plant plant has not only magnificent flowers, but also beautiful greenery with openwork leaves.

The perennial peony plant adorns the backyard with its large flowers with a diameter of 6-20 cm. The bush blooms for 10-15 days, each flower blooms for 6-8 days.

Peonies come in flowers ranging from white to deep red. The shape of the flower is mostly double, but there are many types of semi-double. The flowers have a wonderful aroma, and the bush itself retains its decorative effect all summer and is able to decorate your garden all season long.

Peony flowers: what types are there and their differences

The genus of peonies includes about 50 species. They grow everywhere: in East Asia, Europe, North Africa and on the American continent. There are also wild species growing in the Caucasus, Siberia, Crimea, Ukraine and the Far East.

The flower got its name in honor of the Greek god of health - Peony. Peonies have been used in medicine as early as the 1st century AD. In Russia, these flowers were first grown in pharmaceutical gardens, and then they were imported from abroad already as ornamental plants.

According to biological and morphological features, peonies are divided into:

• Treelike
• herbaceous

The aerial part is preserved in the form of lignified gray shoots, 80–90 cm high. And in the herbaceous, the aerial part dies off annually.

Varietal herbaceous peonies according to the structure of the flower are combined into 5 garden groups:

1. Non-terry
2. Terry
3. Semi-double
4. anemoid
5. Japanese

According to the timing of flowering, peonies are divided into:

• early
• medium
• late

Early varieties of flowering peonies

In Belarus, for example, early varieties herbaceous peonies bloom in early June. These include the most decorative, such as the variety "Adolf Russo" dark red, semi-double, with a flower diameter of up to 12 cm (bush height up to 140 cm),

variety "Le Sin" terry, white, with a creamy tint, with a flower diameter of up to 13 cm (plant height 70 - 80 cm)

variety "Edyulis Superba" deep pink, terry, with a flower diameter of up to 10 cm, very fragrant (bush height 110 - 120 cm)

Variety "Dr. H. Barnsby" Terry, wine-red, blooming profusely, tall, with a flower diameter of up to 13 cm

variety "Festima Maxima" terry, but has a mediocre smell

Medium varieties of flowering peonies

Varieties with medium flowering periods (the second decade of June) include: the Bayadera variety is white, terry, very large up to 14 cm, fragrant (bush height 110 - 120 cm)

variety "Longfell" bright red, terry, with a flower diameter of up to 11 cm (bush height 60 - 90 cm)

variety "Germain Bigot" terry, pale pink, large up to 13 cm, blooming profusely (bush height 70 - 90 cm)

variety "Arkady Gaidar" terry with large bright crimson flowers, there can be 3 flowers on one stem and you will have a ready-made bouquet

Late flowering peonies

Late-flowering peonies include varieties with flowering dates at the end of June. This includes varieties such as "Anshantress" white with a lemon tint, terry, very large (bush height up to 70 - 90 cm)

variety "Marchel MacMahon" terry, rich dark red, with a flower diameter of up to 12 cm (bush height 70 - 90 cm)

variety "Sarah Bernard" intensely pink, with a flower diameter of up to 15 cm, blooming profusely (bush height 90 - 100 cm)

Peonies are used for planting singly or in groups against a lawn in combination with flowering shrubs or other low perennials.

Collect varieties of different flowering periods in plantings and you will get a continuous effect of peony flowering for 40-45 days.

Many refuse these luxurious plants, because their branches droop low under the weight of flowers. But who is stopping you from putting supports under them? It's so simple.

How to plant a peony?

Peonies can grow well in one place without a transplant and bloom luxuriantly up to 10-15 years. Therefore, it is especially important to choose the right landing site and prepare it. Peonies do not tolerate swampy and flooded areas. In such places, their rhizomes rot and fungal diseases spread rapidly. If something is wrong, drain.

Flowers grow well and bloom in rich loamy soil with a slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6.5). When planting on light sandy soil, clay should be added. The soil under the roots of peonies is cultivated deeply and in advance.

The landing pit should be deep up to 50 - 60 cm. It is recommended to add well-rotted humus at the rate of 2 parts of the earth and 1 part of humus. Fertilizers are added to the mixture - 400 g of bone meal, 200 g of superphosphate per plant.

The pits must be filled in advance so that the soil has time to settle, otherwise, when the loose soil settles, the root collar may be exposed or a depression will form that will be filled with water.

The best time for planting and dividing peonies - the second half of August - the beginning of September. Planting can be done in early spring, until new roots have formed. Peonies are planted at a distance of 100 - 120 cm. The rhizomes must be properly sealed, and the root neck must be deepened at least 5 cm - 7 cm.

The rhizome is carefully placed in a pit and covered with prepared soil from above so that it fills all the voids between the roots, being careful not to damage the buds.

After that, it is abundantly watered, and if the earth settles heavily, then again pour it on top. One of the reasons for the lack of flowering is too deep planting, in which they develop well. vegetative shoots, but flower buds are not laid.

The peonies endure the spring transplant associated with the division of the bush very painfully and, as a rule, lag behind in development after it.

If, during transplantation, peonies do not undergo division and it is transferred only from place to place along with a lump, then the transplantation process takes place without consequences for it. This type of transplant can be used both in spring and autumn.

When planting in autumn, the plant must be covered with spruce branches, peat or a layer of dry leaves. In early spring, the shelter is removed.

Care for peonies in the open field

In the first two years, young plants do not need root fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

Plant care consists in regular loosening of the soil and weeding. If the hole overgrows, then the peonies bloom weakly and give flowers of small sizes. It is necessary to water at least 1 time per week, especially during the flowering period, 3-4 buckets per bush.

To obtain large flowers for cutting stepchildren lateral buds. If you need an ornamental bush, then the side buds are left.

Faded flowers must be removed, as crumbling flowers contribute to the occurrence of gray rot.

In autumn, the stems of plants are cut off, leaving stumps 1–2 cm high above the buds. For the winter, peonies are covered with peat and snow. Shelter with straw or leaves is undesirable - fungal diseases may occur.

Feeding young plants

In the first year after planting young plants, three foliar top dressings should be done:

• the first feeding with a nutrient mixture of 40-50 g of carbamide (urea) per 10 liters of water is done as soon as the growth of the aerial parts of the plants begins;
• the second top dressing 40 - 50 g of urea and a tablet of microelements per 10 liters of water - is carried out after 10 - 15 days;
• the third top dressing 2 tablets of trace elements per 10 liters of water is carried out after another 10 - 15 days.

For foliar top dressing use a sprayer. It is better to spray plants in the evening. During the second and third dressings, young plants can be watered with a solution of sodium humate (5 g ha 10 liters of water) or heteroauxin (2 tablets per 10 liters of water) - this contributes to the development of the root system.

The full development of the root system is facilitated by the removal of buds on the bushes in the first two years after planting.

Peonies begin to bloom profusely in the third year after planting. Plants have by that time already 10-15 stems. And then already during the entire growing season - from early spring to late autumn - it is necessary to carry out regular root fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Top dressing should be at least three.

Top dressing for slightly matured plants: In order for the bushes to produce high-quality flowers, it is necessary to make nitrogen-potassium top dressing (10 - 15 g of nitrogen and 10 - 20 g of potassium per bush). Fertilizers are applied after the snow melts or melts, scattering it around the bush. During budding, they are fed a second time (8 - 10 g of nitrogen, 15 - 20 g of phosphorus and 10 - 15 g of potassium per bush). Two weeks after flowering, the third top dressing is done (15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium per bush). It is better to make them in the form of a solution for 10 liters of water.

Top dressing for peonies at the age of 8 - 10 years

Top dressing is carried out for adult plants dry and liquid. They increase by 1.5 times. It is good to carry out top dressing with slurry. For this, fresh mullein is bred (1: 10 - one bucket of mullein per 10 buckets of water) or bird droppings (1: 20 - one bucket of mullein per 20 buckets of water). 400 - 500 g of superphosphate are added to the mixture and left for 10 days for fermentation.

Before use, the mixture is diluted with water (1/2 bucket of water to 1/2 bucket of the mixture). Plants are watered with slurry once during the budding period. Fertilizer is poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep, dug around the bush at a distance of 20-25 cm, at the rate of 1 bucket per bush.

In early spring, for a well-developed 4-5-year-old plant, it is recommended to apply up to 10 kg of decomposed humus with the addition of 50 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium chloride. The mixture is brought around the bush into the holes to a depth of 5-6 cm. Liquid top dressing should not fall on the rhizome.

Disease and pest control

The most common diseases include:

• gray rot (botrytis)
• rust
• ring mosaic of leaves

Gray rot or "black leg" affects stems, buds, leaves and the underground part of the plant. Appears first gray coating, then this place darkens. The stem breaks and falls. You need to follow the right agricultural practices. There should be free access of air to the plants, they do not need to be thickened and monitor the moisture loss during irrigation, to prevent waterlogging. And yet you do not need to allow an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

Rust can affect different varieties of plants. The leaves are mainly affected and the plant dies. There are varieties that are not susceptible to rust - these are the majority of varieties of Russian selection.

With an annular mosaic, light green and yellow stripes. Sick shoots must be cut and burned.

Against pathogens, preventive treatment is done with a soap-copper emulsion or Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water) - sprayed before or after flowering.

If pests (ticks, aphids, thrips) appear, spray the affected parts with Fitoverm (2 ml per 1 liter of water), Agrovertin (4 ml per 1 liter of water) or Confidor (1 ml per 10 liter of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 10 m2.

How are peonies propagated?

Peonies are propagated by seeds and vegetatively. Only wild-growing species can be propagated by seeds. Seedlings bloom in 4-5 years.

Seed propagation of hybrid forms is rarely used and only for breeding new varieties. Seedlings do not retain varietal characteristics and bloom only for 5-7 years. And yet, peonies with double flowers give very few seeds, and some varieties do not even tie them. Therefore, they are often propagated vegetatively.

Varietal peonies are propagated vegetatively, as seedlings do not repeat the characteristics of the variety. There are several ways of vegetative propagation:

• dividing bushes
• layering
• stem cuttings
• root cuttings with a kidney - the most common way

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Bushes can be divided from 3 to 4 years of age, however top scores are obtained when the bush is 5 - 8 years old. Be aware that older bushes may be more likely to be affected by diseases, and in the central, older part of the rhizome there are smaller, weaker buds that are unsuitable for planting.

Bushes are divided from mid-August to mid-September. At this time, renewal buds will already form on the rhizome, but before the renewal buds grow filiform white roots.

A bush for dividing is dug in with a groove in the depth of a shovel. Then, with the help of a crowbar, the bush is swayed and gently removed from the ground. The earth is cleaned and shaken off, but more often washed off with water from a hose. The bush is covered with burlap and allowed to wilt in the shade for several hours so that the plant is not so fragile. The stems are cut to a height of 10 cm from the ground.

Then the bush is inspected and a place with the least number of buds is chosen and a wooden stake is driven into it, with which the bush is divided into two parts.

A divided bush should have 3-5 buds. Roots and buds are very fragile, so divide very carefully. With a knife, cut first into large pieces, and then into smaller ones. From one bush of an adult, you can get 10 - 12 plots.

Rotten and old parts of the tubers are removed or trimmed to a healthy white tissue. It is important to preserve the small young roots that have grown from the rhizome.

In order for the wounds to heal faster, they are sprinkled with crushed charcoal powder or a mixture of coal and sulfur in a ratio of 1: 1. You also need to disinfect the roots well with a 1% solution blue vitriol or 5% formalin.

In order for the shoots to take root better, 5-6 hours before planting, they can be dipped in a creamy clay mash, to which growth stimulants are added (heteroauxin 40 mg / l).

Reproduction by layering

It is best to propagate by layering bushes 5 - 8 years of age. To do this, the shoots bend down to the ground and are fixed with wire folds or pegs, and fall asleep almost to the top with loose nutrient soil of at least 10 cm.

And already at the end of September, the stem with roots is cut off, dipped in a dung-clay mash with a solution of copper sulphate. After that, the layering is planted in a school and mulched for the winter with peat or humus.

Propagation by stem cuttings

Rarely propagated by stem cuttings. This is the most labor-intensive method of reproduction. Cuttings with two internodes are cut from the middle part of the stem during the budding period 7-10 days before flowering. Rooting is done in greenhouses. One or two cuttings can be obtained from one stem. And from one large plant, 20 - 25 cuttings are obtained.

The cuttings are kept for 24 hours in a solution of heteroauxin (1 tablet per 10 liters of water), then planted in a greenhouse under a film. Cuttings are planted with a distance of 8 x 8 cm and a depth of 2 - 4 cm. Often sprayed (humidity 95%). The temperature in the greenhouse should be around 20-25 degrees C.

Under such conditions, after 1 - 1.5 months, the cuttings take root and a kidney appears in the axil of the lower leaf. Rooted cuttings are left in greenhouses for the winter. With the onset of cold weather, the soil is covered with peat with a layer of 5-6 cm. So the cuttings are well preserved even in the Urals.

They are planted on the ridges for growing them in the spring of next year. The roots of the plant are fleshy and contain a large supply of nutrients. And thin, white roots die off annually, but the plant needs them to feed with water and mineral salts. On the site for growing, they are 1 - 2 years.

Reproduction by root cuttings with a kidney

With this method of reproduction in July, after the end of the flowering of peonies, a mature shoot is cut with a sharp knife with a renewal bud formed at the base and part of the root. The shoot is shortened, leaving 1-2 leaf blades on it. The kidney is soaked for 12-16 hours in a 0.01% solution of heteroauxin, then planted in a school, on shaded ridges, to a depth of 7-10 cm.

In late autumn, the shoot is removed, and the rooted bud is covered with a leaf for the winter.

At the end of the article, take as advice on how to store cut peonies, which Better conditions being in a dark room at + 2 ... + 4 degrees C.

To keep cut flowers in the vase for as long as possible, use a nutrient solution instead of water (15 - 20 g sugar and 0.1 g boric acid or more tablets activated carbon for 1 liter of water). Change the solution every 2-3 days.

In dry weather, cutting is carried out in the early morning or late evening. And in rainy and cloudy - throughout the day.

If you carefully read the article and follow the agricultural rules, then this bud will bloom and delight you with its beauty.

Some of the beginner gardeners have the opinion that there are certain risks in planting peonies in the spring. The reason is the fact that spring is the time of active growth of the green mass of plants, and planting peonies in the spring is regarded as a direct path to the depletion of the root system and weakening of the immune system. And this means that from the very beginning, tortured seedlings will take root for a very long time, grow weakly and develop poorly. Not to mention the lack of budding in the next year or two.

However, quite successful gardeners say that if you are lucky enough to buy a peony seedling in February, you should not wait six months before planting it. It only needs to be stored until planting in open ground. The advantage of the situation is that in the spring the suction roots do not lose their ability to grow back. The main thing is to carry out all the necessary manipulations correctly and in a timely manner.

Varieties and popular varieties of peonies

There are 2 varieties of peonies by origin and shape:

Treelike

herbaceous

According to the shape of the buds, peonies are divided into:

Depending on the timing of the start of flowering, peonies can be divided into:

• very early (before June 5)
• early (as a rule, they begin to bloom from June 5-10);
• medium (from June 10-20);
• late - (from June 20-30);
• very late - (after June 30).

Video: all about peonies for beginners

Choosing healthy peony seedlings: the main selection criteria

The packaging itself can help in choosing a good peony seedling, since, as a rule, the very name of the variety and its brief description are highlighted on it, and the number of divisions for planting is also indicated, there is a mark on quality control. Of course, you can not neglect the mini landing instructions, which are printed on the back of the box.

It is critical to inspect the delenki (through a transparent plastic bag). It is especially worth focusing on the following elements:

• on the number of renewal kidneys (at least 3 pieces);
• on the number and length of adventitious roots (at least 2 roots longer than 5 cm);
• on traces of injuries and signs of disease.

It is not advisable to purchase a seedling if the following signs of poor quality are present:

• excessive moisture or, conversely, dryness of the division;
• a specific smell (strongly stinks of mold or rot);
• suspicious growths or noticeable thickenings on the rhizomes (such specimens have a very high risk of cancer or, no less badly, a root nematode).

Important! If you got a delenka with only 1-2 kidneys, do not rush to throw it away. It's just that such peonies will not grow so fast and will bloom 1-2 years later.

Video: how to choose peony seedlings in spring

By the way! Sell ​​peonies begin in February-March. If you buy them so early, then you will have to perform certain conservation measures for peony seedlings before planting in open ground. The following videos will help you with this.

Video: buying peonies and storing them until spring planting in open ground

Video: planting a peony from a pot in open ground in spring

The optimal place and soil for planting peonies

When the peony grows in the brightly lit place, then his flowers are large, magnificent rich color. A little natural shading at noon does not bring trouble. But a strong one is abnormal and uncomfortable for him. It cannot pass without problems and sometimes leads to a complete absence of budding, sometimes even to the death of the plant.

But in relation to soils peony is quite unpretentious, although different types Soil development of the flower is carried out in completely different ways.

By the way! It should be noted that the most remarkable decorative effect is achieved when the peony grows on cultivated land or loam (soil with a high content of clay and a significant amount of sand), which is able to accept and retain water well.

If you are going to plant a peony near groundwater, then you should not allow their level to cross the mark of 0.5-0.7 m from the surface at the landing site. This is fraught with rotting of the roots of the plant, and consequently, the death of the bush. In such cases, it is required to raise the flower beds higher, adding soil. A more reliable way is to dig further drainage channels around the flower bed, laying a ceramic pipe.

Planting peonies in open ground: step by step instructions

It is recommended to plant peonies in early spring, or rather, before the start of stable warming, in other words, optimal time- the whole month of April. This is done so that before the shoots appear, the delenka has time to take root well in the soil.

It's wiser, of course, to do it in advance landing pit so that the ground has time to subside a little. But it's okay if you dig it right on the day the rhizomes are planted.

A step-by-step instruction for planting peonies in open ground in spring looks like in the following way:

1. We make the landing pit larger than root system seedling, and this is in the region of 60 by 60 cm. The distance between seedlings should be about 1-1.5 meters. The upper fertile layer of soil is folded on one side of the pit, the lower one on the other.
2. We loosen the bottom of the pit a little more and fill it with a 15-30 cm layer of drainage (you can choose from expanded clay, broken brick or the most common river sand, depending on what you have available).
3. We drop the top (more fertile) layer of soil to the roots down into the pit, followed by a couple of buckets of excellent compost or humus, 1 cup of superphosphate and 2 cups of wood ash. As it should, mix everything thoroughly. If the earth is excessively clayey, then it is recommended to add 1 bucket of sand (peat is also allowed), and if, on the contrary, it is too sandy, on the contrary, 1 bucket of clay.
4. Next, we fill up such an amount of soil that about 10 centimeters remain to the surface.
5. We straighten the roots and put a peony division in the center of the pit. With heavy soil, it is necessary to deepen the division from the point of growth of the kidneys by 5 cm, and with light soil - by 7 centimeters.
6. Now you need to fill the peony roots with soil, and slightly compact with your hands, but not with your feet.
7. Then water well. If suddenly the soil sags slightly, then additional soil should be added.
8. It will be absolutely the right decision if you mulch the hole with peat or humus. Mulch will protect against excessive overheating and cracking of the soil, in other words, it will create optimal conditions for quick rooting of delenki.

Note! One of the reasons for the weak or complete absence of flowering may be too much deepening of the peony bush during planting. On the other hand, on the contrary, an excessively close location to the surface can lead to freezing of the plant in winter.

Care for peonies in the open field: mandatory activities

Your peony bushes will grow and bloom intensively if you take care of them intensively and properly care for them. And this requires a quality watering, periodical loosening and regular weeding.

In the first days after planting, peonies should be watered daily for more successful rooting. When the period of active growth begins, the land near the plants should be plentifully irrigated cold water(+22-24 C). With the onset of dry and hot weather, it is worth watering so that moisture penetrates right up to the very roots. The watering rate for an adult peony is literally 2 buckets. Try to avoid getting moisture on the leaves, otherwise, wait for the inevitable disease of the plant with a fungal infection.

Operational weeding and loosening of the soil will help to resist the appearance of dry crusts on the surface of the earth.

We will talk about such an important component of caring for peonies as top dressing separately.

Root top dressing

Starting from 2-3 years of development, for luxurious flowering, in addition to regular watering, loosening and weeding, peonies will need to be additionally fed.

As a rule, top dressing is carried out in 3 stages:

• Feed for the first time peony follows immediately after all the snow melts in the garden. At this time, we proceed from the greatest need for nitrogen-potassium fertilizers: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrogen and 1-2 tbsp. spoons of potassium per bush.
• Next top dressing carried out already during the formation of buds. Each bush should be fed with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, 1 tbsp. spoons of each remedy (nitrogen can be slightly smaller).
• Last autumn dressing should be done 10-14 days after flowering (gives strength to lay new buds). The composition of the fertilizer should include one tablespoon of phosphorus and potassium.

Important! You should not be surprised at the need to monitor the rate of use of fertilizers, since an unbalanced amount (in particular, nitrogen) causes unnecessary foliage to grow wildly, and budding stops.

Video: care and feeding of peonies in the spring before flowering

What fertilizer to feed peonies

In order not to burden you with the problems of finding the right fertilizers for feeding peonies, we will help you figure out which modern preparations should be taken with the greatest seriousness and how to choose the best and most effective.

Mineral fertilizer Kemira (Fertika)

According to the reviews of flower growers practitioners, Kemira (Fertika) gives excellent quality flowering, and also increases the vitality of plants to many fungal and viral diseases. It is economical, odorless, diluted without sediment. It is recommended to use the entire spring-summer season with an interval of 10-14 days.

In early spring and a week after flowering, Kemira Universal fertilizer is more relevant than ever. In order to get all the fertilizer without residue to the roots, it is more efficient to apply it in the form of a solution. In this form, it definitely will not be lost, will not wash out, will not evaporate. And the roots will instantly receive nutrients. It would seem a mere trifle, but the fertilization process should take place in this way: first, the land is irrigated with water, and only then fertilizer is used. And then once again the usual watering. This procedure is of great importance, as it helps to protect the delicate roots of plants from burns in case of an error in the calculation of fertilizer.

The second top dressing is carried out with Kemira Combi fertilizer (most often in the form of a pink powder easily soluble in water) with the same procedure as described above.

By the way! All the constituent elements of the fertilizer are easily absorbed by plants due to their chelate form, because. chelates do not react with the soil and do not bind to it, which is why chelated fertilizers are absorbed by plants by almost 100%, and not by 25% -35%, as usual.

Organic fertilizer Baikal EM1

To restore the fertility of the soil in which peonies grow, to saturate it with oxygen, live microorganisms contained in microbiological fertilizer prepared on the basis of EM technologies will help. Fertilizer Baikal EM1 is added once a week to the compost and for irrigation from spring to July.

foliar top dressing

Those who prefer to feed foliarly will like Ideal fertilizer. This product is based on biohumus and contains everything that flowers love so much. For this type of top dressing, it is just right to spray the leaves of both young and adult bushes with a spray gun (you can pour it from a watering can, in which there is a small chintz) once a month. Solution consumption - 2 caps per 1 liter of water.

By the way! If you add a little household soap or a tablespoon of washing powder per bucket of water to this solution, then such a “soapy” solution will linger on the leaves better and longer.

In addition, you can adhere to such a scheme for applying foliar dressings for peonies:

• 1 dressing(upon the appearance of a green bush) - usually only a solution of urea is taken (3 tablespoons per bucket of water).
• 2 top dressing(about a month later, during the budding period) - the urea solution is supplemented with microfertilizer tablets (for example, Agricola, 1 piece per bucket of solution).
• 3 top dressing(at the end of flowering) - only a more saturated solution of micronutrient fertilizers without urea is used (2 tablets per 10 liters of water).

Video: how to care for peonies in spring - top dressing

Carrying out timely dressings in accordance with all the rules will help develop and bloom healthy and truly beautiful peonies. It is logical that for a stronger effect, top dressing should go along with operational watering, loosening and weeding the soil from weeds.

Video: why peonies do not bloom

Note! Read about what to do with peonies in the fall (fertilizing, pruning, shelter) and how to properly prepare them for winter. in this article.

Every novice summer resident is able to destroy the ridiculous stereotype about the impossibility successful landing peonies in spring. To do this, you need to know and correctly follow the proposed recommendations for choosing a seedling, place, soil, as well as creating normal conditions for growing and caring for these magnificent perennial flowers in spring.

Video: how to plant peonies in spring

Maryin root

Maryin root

Siberia and Far East are home to many species. The most valuable of them are marin root, steppe peony and Far Eastern white-flowered (milky-flowered), they have non-double, but bright numerous flowers that appear against the background of beautiful foliage, different in different species. They bloom earlier than garden varieties, which is important in the design of early period in addition, it is a good material for breeding work. Garden forms and varieties of peony for the most part are a herbaceous perennial rhizome plant with a height of 60 to 100 cm. The bush is large, multi-stemmed, with beautiful greenery, which has a decorative appearance until mid-September. The flowers are large, showy, can be double, semi-double and simple, with different terms and duration of flowering.

Early varieties bloom in the first decade of June, late - in early July. By the age of 5, the bush reaches its optimal size and has from 20 to 50 flowers and, as an exception, 150. When choosing the appropriate assortment, you can have flowering peonies on the site for 40-55 days.

Steppe peonyIn addition, it is possible to increase the flowering period due to agricultural practices: using film frames, as on strawberries, you can cause earlier flowering, and when planting on shady side plot and cover the bushes with sawdust (10-15 cm), it can be delayed by 10-12 days, thereby further extending the flowering period by 15-20 days.

Peonies grow well on soil rich in organic matter with sufficient moisture, they do not like transplants and develop better in one place for 10-12 years, subject to good agricultural practices.

It is better to plant pions in pits, the size of which depends on the size of the planting material (50 × 50, 60 × 60, 70 × 70 cm), humus (8-10 kg per hole) and superphosphate (200 g) are added, mixed well with the ground , pour water and plant a “delenka” of a peony in a liquefied mass so that its buds are no deeper than 3-5 cm from the soil level after backfilling with earth.

Gardeners make the mistake of planting peonies in loose soil without taking into account its precipitation. In this case, the plant turns out to be buried, does not bloom, sometimes even grows poorly. To correct the error, you have to lift the bush with a pitchfork and pour earth into the hole or completely transplant it, violating the root system. The distance between the bushes should be given 80-100 cm.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the first sprouts appear, the first top dressing is carried out with a flower mixture (50-80 g / m2) and loosening to a depth of 3-5 cm. The second top dressing is given two weeks before flowering (mullein infusion with an admixture of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers) and the third - at the end of August only with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

With a lack of moisture, abundant watering of plants is necessary during budding, flowering and at the end of August during the secondary growth of roots. Timely watering has a beneficial effect on the overwintering of plants and their development in the coming year. After each watering, the soil is loosened or mulched.

For larger flowers, one bud should be left on the stem. For better flowering the next year, in the fall, the leaves are cut off and humus mixed with wood ash and bone meal is added under each bush. Planting peonies should be carried out separately if they are in the shade of trees, the number of buds and their size are sharply reduced.

On old bushes, damage by a nematode (acne) is possible, which causes nodular swelling of the roots. Such plants should be dug up and burned, and the soil disinfected. Peony flowers can be damaged by bronze. This golden-green beetle eats away the core of the flowers. Beetles should be collected in the morning hours and burned.

Often you can see ants on the buds, they are attracted by sweet juice. The buds are sprayed with tobacco infusion, and the nearby anthill must be moved away from the bush.

Peonies propagate by dividing the bush, renewal buds, stem and root cuttings, seeds.

The division of the bush is carried out in the first half of August before the secondary growth of the roots begins or in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. This is the most common way to propagate peonies. Uses it most of gardeners when transplanting plants to a new place. Many believe that when transplanted, peonies do not bloom for three to four years. Meanwhile, if this operation is carried out on time and carefully (damaging the roots as little as possible), peonies will bloom the next year.

To do this, you need to know that in peonies, in addition to the spring growth of roots, there is an increased growth of them a second time - in the fall, from about August 20-25. Therefore, transplanting and dividing the roots should be carried out as soon as the soil thaws and before the start of secondary root growth! It should be borne in mind that the root system of pions grows, depending on age, up to 80 cm in depth and up to 90 cm in width.

Carefully digging the bush with a shovel, lift it with a garden pitchfork, trying to damage the roots as little as possible. They are washed from the ground with water from a hose and divided, while using the knife as little as possible, separating them in places where jumpers are formed, as it were, in order to inflict less wounds.

To get the maximum number of divisions, it is better to take 4-5-year-old bushes and divide them into four to six parts, with four to five buds; you can leave one or two buds per delenka, but they begin to bloom one or two years late.

You can get peony seedlings without digging up the plant completely. To this end, the bush is cut into two parts with a shovel, one part is carefully removed from the soil and divided, as described above, and the other remains in the ground.

The cut part is sprinkled with crushed coal, the hole is covered with soil, watered - and the bush continues to bloom and develop. When transplanting old bushes to a new place, rejuvenating pruning is carried out, fleshy rhizomes are shortened, leaving roots 8-10 cm long near the renewal buds.

There is another way to get peony seedlings without digging up a bush. To do this, in the first half of August (before the start of secondary growth), the bush is carefully disentangled, part of the renewal buds with a piece of rhizome are separated from it and planted in cold nurseries at a distance of 10 × 10 cm, covered with a film, rooting occurs on the fortieth day. Then the film is removed and covered with a sheet pillow for the winter. In the spring, plants are transplanted to school or on permanent place. Such plants bloom in the third or fourth year of life.

On the principle of preserving the bush, a method of reproduction by layering is also built. A wooden box 25-30 cm high is placed on a peony bush in spring. As the bush grows, the buds are covered with loose earth or humus, gradually filling the box. Shoots normally grow and bloom (slightly lagging compared to free-growing bushes). Roots form at their base. In autumn, the box is removed and the rooted stems are cut off, transplanted to a permanent place. Such plants begin to bloom in the fourth or fifth year.

Tree peonies (Paeonia saffruticosa) are a group of species, natural and artificial hybrids and varieties of the genus Paeonia. It is a deciduous shrub up to 1.5 meters in height. Very decorative, thanks to spectacular, bright green, double-cut leaves and unusually beautiful, large (diameter from 12 to 25 cm) flowers. They come in plain, terry and semi-double shapes and come in a variety of colors, from snow white to almost black, including yellow and lilac.

The history of tree peony cultivation goes back over two thousand years. In the wild, the tree peony grows in the highlands of southeastern China, so the Chinese are the founders of the introduction of these plants into cultivation and subsequent selection. Around the 7th-10th century, the tree peony came to Japan, and the Japanese contributed to the development of this culture. The tree peony came to Europe only at the end of the 18th century, gained popularity in the gardens of England, France, Holland, and, of course, did not leave European breeders without work. As a result of this centuries-old work, more than 1000 tree peony varieties were created, divided into several groups:

• Chinese-European - with heavy double flowers;
• Japanese - with non-double or semi-double light and airy flowers;
• hybrids of yellow peony and Delaway peony - with yellow flowers.

There is another group of tree-like peonies - these are mountain peonies - newest group, created with the participation of highland species and has a number of advantages for growing in our rather harsh conditions. This is:

Increased winter hardiness;

Stronger annual growth compared to tree peonies;

Early flowering.

Tree peonies have a number of features that must be considered when growing them.

First, it is slow growth. Yes, tree peony slowly growing, but every year it becomes more and more beautiful. So be patient and it will definitely be rewarded.

Secondly, it is a long-liver, in one place it can grow for more than 100 years. This must be taken into account when choosing a location.

Thirdly, he is very tenacious. If in the spring it seems to you that he is gone, frozen, dried up, the buds do not bloom, do not rush to say goodbye to him. After some time, new shoots may appear, and even with buds.

Buying a tree peony

When choosing a seedling of a tree peony, you should pay attention to the fact that the planting unit has 2-3 lignified shoots no more than 25 cm high, with unblown buds. In this case, the kidneys should be large enough and glossy. The roots should be well developed, ideally the length of the roots should be equal to the height of the crown.

Planting a tree peony

A place for planting a peony is chosen sunny or light partial shade, protected from the winds.

Tree peonies grow on almost any soil, but prefer permeable loam with a slightly alkaline reaction.

The best time for planting tree peonies is from mid-August to mid-September.

A pit for planting a peony is prepared in advance, in about 2-3 weeks. It should have dimensions of 80x80 and a depth of 60-70 cm. A drainage layer of 15-25 cm is poured onto the bottom of the pit, then covered with a soil mixture consisting of garden soil, humus and peat in equal proportions with the addition of ash, bone or dolomite flour, potassium sulfate and superphosphate (about one glass each).

When planting, carefully straighten the peony roots along the formed surface of the hole, and fill it with the remaining soil mixture so that the root neck is at the level of the soil, tamp and water.

But, since planting material is supplied for sale mainly in the spring, the question arises: what to do in this case? There are at least two solutions.

1. Plant the delenka in a pot with a volume of 5-6 liters, with the onset of a stable positive positive temperature, take it out into the garden and wait for a favorable time for planting, carefully transferring the plant from the pot to the prepared hole. In this case, it is important to prevent waterlogging and stagnant water during the overexposure period.
2. Landing is similar to autumn. In this case, it is advisable to choose a planting time when the danger of return frosts has already passed and a stable heat has not yet set in.

I used both of these methods in my practice: I planted a mountain peony in spring, and a yellow-flowered one with overexposure in autumn. Both are still growing and developing.

Tree peony care

top dressing- if the peony is planted correctly, then in the first two years, feeding can be omitted. Starting from the third year, the first top dressing is carried out in the snow with nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. The second - before flowering with the same fertilizer composition. The third - after flowering - with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. I use fertilizer "Fertika" ("Kemira"), respectively, spring and summer.

Watering- plentiful, but not frequent. In dry weather, it is enough to water an adult bush once a week at the rate of 2-3 buckets per bush.

pruning- carried out every spring until the beginning of the growing season: dried shoots are removed, old shoots are shortened up to 10 cm. This gives the plant the opportunity to awaken adnexal buds at the base of the plant. Another pruning is carried out after flowering. In this case, it is necessary to remove the faded bud and cut the peduncle 2 buds below. Based on my own experience, I strongly recommend this operation, as it contributes to further growth and abundant flowering next year.

Fig.1 Pruning a tree peony after flowering

Shelter tree peony for the winter

In Siberia, it is necessary to cover a tree peony. I cover my peonies like this: I tie the crown, wrap it with spruce branches, wrap it with covering material in several layers and tie it again. It is enough to wrap a mountain peony with a covering material.

Tree peony transplant

A tree peony transplant is very painful. Transplanted bushes are restored for a long time, sometimes for several years. If it is already necessary to transplant a healthy bush, then carefully dig it in, trying not to damage the root system, and transfer it with a clod of earth to a previously prepared hole. If the bush has signs of illness, and you want to reanimate it, then after digging up the bush, carefully rinse it under running water, inspect the roots, remove the diseased ones, treat the sections with a maroon solution of potassium permanganate, sprinkle with crushed coal and land in a prepared place.

Tree peony rejuvenation

If your peony bush has reached a mature age (20 years or more) and has begun to lose its decorative effect, then the bush can be rejuvenated by cutting it in the fall almost to the very surface of the soil. This will give impetus to the awakening of adnexal buds at the base of the shoots.

Diseases and pests of tree peonies

Tree peonies are very disease resistant. In 10 years of caring for them, I have never noticed signs of disease or pest damage. But, nevertheless, tree-like peonies can be subject to gray rot and brown spotting. In case of gray rot, it is necessary to remove the damaged shoots and spray them with a 6-7% solution of copper sulfate or a solution of potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 liters of water). In case of brown spot disease, it is necessary to remove and burn diseased leaves and spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Reproduction of tree peonies

There are 5 ways to propagate tree peonies.

1. Dividing the bush

This is the most acceptable method of reproduction; it is carried out at the same time as planting a peony, i.e. from mid-August to mid-September. It should be a 5-6 year old, healthy bush with 7 or more shoots, with a distance between them of at least 3.5 cm. The bush is carefully dug up, the ground is washed off with a stream of water with low pressure, the shoots are cut to a height of 10-15 cm and dried in the shade for 2-3 hours. Then the rhizome is divided in such a way as to obtain delenki with 2-3 buds and a part of the root of at least 10 cm. The places of cut and damage are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with crushed coal. The divisions obtained in this way are planted in pits prepared in advance.

2. Layering

Peony propagation by layering begins in May, before flowering. To do this, they take a strong shoot, bend it to the ground, and make an incision at the place where the shoot touches the ground. The incision is powdered with root stimulants, you can insert a small spacer. After that, the shoot is pinned to the surface of the soil, covered with a layer of earth 10-15 cm high and ensure that the earth does not dry out in this place. Roots should appear in late August - early September.

3. Cuttings

From about mid-June to early August, a tree peony can be propagated by cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings are cut obliquely under the bud, the leaf blades are shortened by half, treated with root formation stimulants and planted in boxes with a mixture of sand and peat in equal amounts to a depth of 1.5 cm. The boxes are covered with foil and constantly watered and sprayed. At the end of September, rooted cuttings are planted in separate pots and left in the greenhouse until spring. In the spring, when the plants begin to grow, they are planted in a permanent place. Peonies bloom with this method of reproduction in the 5th year.

4. Grafting

With this method of reproduction, the roots of a grassy peony are used as a stock, you can also use horses and a tree peony. In this case, you need to monitor the appearance of root growth and remove it. This can be avoided by using your own peony roots. Harvested roots are desirable to withstand 2-3 weeks in a cool room. Cuttings with two buds are cut in early August and cut from both sides in the shape of a wedge. An incision of the same shape is made on the rootstock, the stem of the rootstock is inserted tightly, tightly wrapped polyethylene film and tie up. The prepared material is laid horizontally in a moistened layer of sawdust and placed in a cool shaded place. A month later, when the scion grows together with the stock, plant it in a greenhouse so that the lower eye is deepened by 5-7 cm. They are planted in a permanent place after 2 years.

5. Seeds

The advantage of this method is that a plant grown in this way will have increased immunity and adapt more easily to conditions. environment. It is best to sow with freshly harvested seeds. Seeds are sown in the ground in September-October. In this case, flowering occurs at 4-5 years. If the seeds have lain for several months or years, germination is sharply reduced and the seeds require stratification and even scarification. The stratification process is quite complicated, I personally do not have the patience to follow exactly all the recommendations. I myself sowed purchased seeds in the spring in open ground. From 10pcs. I have 2 seedlings appeared in the 2nd year and 1 seedling in the 3rd.

Using a tree peony

The tree-like peony is an unconditional soloist. He shows his best qualities in single plantings, especially good against the background of the lawn. You can also use it in group plantings, large bushes serve perfectly as a background in prefabricated flower beds. And, of course, it's a great cut.

Russian selection

And I also want to say a little about the Russian selection of tree peonies. Selection work has been carried out by the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University for more than 30 years. During this time, more than 40 varieties of tree-like peonies have been registered, which are listed in the catalog of varieties and are recommended for use in production. These are winter-hardy varieties, they feel great not only in central Russia, but also in the Urals and Siberia.

The most popular varieties of Russian selection:

• white - Lomonosov, Moscow University, Maria, Anastasia Sosnovets;
• pale pink - Dmitry Kapinos;
• yellow - Kuindzhi, Academician Sadovnichy;
• red - Vladimir Mayakovsky;
• salmon - Irina, Marianna;
• purple-pink - Nikolai Vavilov, Yulia Drunina;
• lilac-beetroot - Peter the Great.

Below is a photo of a Mountain Peony and a Tree Peony "Yellow Bird".

Bocharova T.M.

Peonies planting and care

Peonies are impressive in size flowers, of various colors: bright red, raspberry, deep pink, white. Who wants to grow these wonderful flowers in their country house, read the article: peony planting and care in the open field. Not everyone knows that the appearance of a peony bud depends on the type of flower, they can be double, smooth or pompous. Peonies look very beautiful, resembling rosettes with a noticeable core.

The beginning of flowering of peonies falls on the end of May - the beginning of June. The height of the bush can reach 90 cm. Peonies are a perennial garden culture that has been pleasing the eye with its splendor for more than one year. Growing a peony (Paeonia) is not difficult, it is not a capricious plant that does not require laborious care.

Types and varieties of peonies

To date, more than five thousand varieties of peony are known. All species of this family are divided into herbaceous and tree-like. Tree varieties are shrubs growing up to 2 m. Herbaceous species do not require special care, they bloom for many years in a row. Basically, by the second half of July, herbaceous varieties of peonies fade. To prolong the pleasure of the sight of flowering specimens, it is necessary to plant flowers with various terms flowering.

Attention! The peony variety for planting is selected individually, depending on its future location. For planting next to a curbstone, herbaceous types are more suitable, when planting alone, tree peonies are better suited.

Tree peonies are divided into 3 varieties:

1. European ones are distinguished by large flowers with double petals of various colors - from pinkish to deep crimson. Their leaves are dense, fleshy, large in size.
2. Japanese are found terry and semi-smooth, the inflorescences are not so heavy. This variety stands out for its increased resistance to frost. This feature is due to the method of cuttings, when cuttings are grafted to the root system of herbaceous peonies. This method allows the heat-loving plant to survive the harsh natural conditions of the Russian winter.
3. Hybrids bred by crossing the Delaway and Yellow peony. This semi-shrub species is bright yellow with a prominent red mark at the base of the bud. The trunk does not branch and grows up to 2 m in height. On one branch, basically, from 3 to 5 inflorescences. Blooming flowers can reach 10 cm in diameter.

Tree varieties of peonies take root well and develop in lighted places that are not accessible to direct wind. The soil base must be selected fertilized and well permeable to moisture, preventing stagnant water. In winter, representatives of this species should be covered with branches. conifers and board fences to prevent freezing.

Attention! The soil for planting tree peonies must have good drainage.

Nowadays, they are getting more and more famous hybrid varieties obtained by repeated crossing different varieties. Hybrids are unique, as they combine the properties and external qualities of herbaceous and tree types.

The result is a unique color, large flowers, good frost tolerance. Crossed species are relevant for use in decorating the landscape, because their undeniable qualities are the increased duration of flowering, a wide range of colors and a unique aroma.

The classification of herbaceous varieties is more extensive than tree-like ones. The main varieties include:

1. Maryin root (avoiding peony), which has straight-growing stems large in diameter, up to 1 m high. Enough big flowers pink color - these are the distinguishing features of this variety. Flowering occurs in May - June. It is used as a medicine and to decorate the territory of the garden plot.
2. Peony officinalis used to be used only for medical purposes, but at the moment it is also widely known as a beautiful flower for decoration. The inflorescences have no aroma, up to 12 cm in size. The color of blossoming buds is usually dark red. This variety is distributed mainly in the middle zone of our country. Flowering begins in early June.
3. The narrow-leaved peony is an attractive decor element for unshaded areas that are not subject to increased watering. During the flowering period, they delight with beautiful raspberry buds, but already in the second half of May they fade and cease to be a decoration of the territory.
4. Peony Mlokosevich is named after a researcher who discovered this variety on the slopes of the Caucasus Mountains in the 19th century. The unique yellow color and bluish color of the leaves makes it interesting for peony lovers. Another distinguishing feature is the very slow blooming of buds, which, when opened, reach 12 cm. Flowering time varies depending on the climate, but usually this happens in May.
5. White-flowered peonies are a wide variety, which in turn is divided into a number of subspecies. These are simple, semi-double and Japanese varieties.

The most famous of the semi-double:

• Miss America is a tall plant with lush white buds;
• Cytheria - flowers are medium in height, changing color during flowering, from rich burgundy at the beginning to white-pink at the end;
• Lastres - flowers with a five-row arrangement of red petals. The height of the bushes is decent and reaches 70 cm.
• Japanese white-flowered peonies are the most popular and widespread. The main varieties of this species:
• Velma Atkinson - flowers with predominantly early flowering, pink hue;
• Pearl placer - a type of later flowering and a long duration of flowering. It smells like roses;
• Karara is a variety of medium height, with a diameter of blooming flowers up to 16 cm.

It is not possible to describe all varieties of the pion family, and these are only a few of the existing five thousand. Constantly the list of varieties is replenished with newly discovered or bred ones, raising the art of breeding peonies to the rank of a certain philosophy.

Peonies exist for every taste, even the most fastidious gardener will like one for growing and decorating his site.

peonies photo

Peony planting and care in the open field

Choosing and preparing a place for planting a peony

The key to successful planting of peonies is the optimally chosen place for the flower. The area for peonies should be sufficiently lit, especially in the morning, not obscured by other garden crops.

Peonies negatively perceive strong gusts of wind, so they should be placed near the walls of buildings, fences or closed from drafts for more tall bushes or trees.

It is better if the chosen site is on a hill, because peonies do not tolerate too moist soil, and places in the lowlands are absolutely not suitable for them.

Attention! If the composition of the soil mixture on the site is not suitable for peonies, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work to improve it.

Previously, a few weeks before the transplant, the area for peonies must be prepared. It is necessary to make a recess for one and a half shovels and fill it with soil prepared from humus, peat, ordinary soil and sand, taken in the same amount. For proper growth, 0.5 liters of ash should be added to this mixture.

Peony planting time

Early autumn is considered the most suitable time for planting peonies in open ground. It is at this time that no large values air temperature, more rain, which improves the adaptation of the plant in a new place. Before the onset of cold weather, the flower will have time to strengthen due to the active growth of new branches of the roots.

Attention! Peonies planted in the spring are more prone to disease and recover more slowly. Flowers transplanted in autumn take root better and begin to develop rapidly in spring.

If it is necessary to land in the spring, then this must be done before the air has warmed up to 10 degrees. If this condition is not met, then the plant is likely to die.

Peony care basics

Since peonies are usually grown in outdoor gardens, care rules are considered in relation to outdoor growth.

Temperature and lighting

There are no specific temperature characteristics. Each gardener chooses a variety intended for growing in his climate zone and tailored to specific temperature conditions. A suitably selected variety tolerates the temperature of its climate well and is unpretentious in adaptation.

Peonies are plants that love sunlight. Their leaves and flowers are not afraid of exposure to direct sunlight. Growth in light shade is also possible, but periods of good light should prevail.

Soil composition requirements

A suitable soil composition plays an important role in the proper development of a peony bush. Optimally selected soil mixture when planting beautiful flowers that will delight the eye and decorate the site.

For peonies, soil that has a slightly acidic or alkaline reaction is well suited. If the soil is clayey, then the addition of sand is required, in the case of sandy soil, humus must be added, and limestone rocks must be introduced into the soil with an acidic environment at least a year before planting the pions.

The planting process is very important in the life of the plant and requires some training from gardeners. Under the peony, it is necessary to dig a hole 70 cm deep. It must be prepared a month before planting and filled with a specially prepared soil mixture of peat, sand, humus and necessary fertilizers. This mixture is covered with ordinary soil and left to settle. After 3-4 weeks, peonies can be planted.

Attention! Fertilizers applied to the soil should not fall directly on the root system of peonies.

Waiting for soil shrinkage is required to prevent soil from covering the transplanted pion buds.

Watering

Peonies should be watered sparingly. For these plants Negative influence provided by nearby groundwater. The soil for peonies should have good drainage and be loosened. In hot summer weather, when peonies are actively blooming, they need to be watered more often and large quantity water. Watering should be done directly under the roots, without watering the foliage.

Frequent loosening of the soil helps to ensure optimal development and growth. In loose soil, the necessary supply of moisture is better retained, weeds and dangerous pests appear less.

top dressing

In the first year after planting additional top dressing not required. Fertilizers begin to be applied to the soil mixture after the plant reaches the age of two. Top dressing is carried out with urea, crystallin or any other nitrogen-containing mixture. During the period of spring and summer, it is advisable to feed the peonies 3 times:

• the first top dressing is carried out with the onset of spring by sprinkling with urea or potassium sulfate in the amount of 15 g;
• the second time peonies are fertilized with a solution of urea or superphosphate when future flowers are formed;
• the third dressing is done 2 weeks after the end of flowering to form buds for the next year.

pruning

One of necessary procedures when growing peonies is to carry out pruning. Autumn is considered the best time for pruning. This helps to prepare the plants for a safe existence in the winter.

It is optimal to cut the bushes at the beginning of cold weather. For the winter months, shoots of about 4 cm remain, covered with spruce branches.

It is wrong to prune peonies immediately after flowering has ended. This will remove the buds of the next year's inflorescences. Pruning during the flowering period, the peony will lose the opportunity to bloom in a year.

Preparing a peony for winter

After rapid flowering, garden peonies must be prepared for the winter period. This includes weeding and loosening the soil around the bushes.

In autumn, it is necessary to cut the leaves and stems low so that fungal diseases do not develop. In the case of severe winters, sheltering the bushes with spruce branches is required. The same procedure is carried out to protect all young individuals.

Features of planting and caring for peony in Siberia, in the north

The Siberian region and the Far East are considered the native territory for some types of peonies. The most famous of them are Maryin root, Far Eastern white-flowered and steppe peony. These crops bloom in the conditions of Siberian nature among the first, which makes them of particular value in shaping the landscape designs of these territories.

The climatic conditions of the region have the following influence on the development of flowers: cold during the period of picking buds slows down blooming, subsequent heat accelerates flowering. To increase the duration of the flowering period, you need to adjust the conditions, bringing them closer to natural for certain varieties.

Peonies are unpretentious plants, some varieties of which can grow in northern climatic conditions. A prerequisite here is the autumn mulching of the bushes.

The main variety for growing in the northern nature was the evasive peony (marin root). Its winter hardiness indicators are higher than others, which allows you to enjoy its flowers in northern nature.

Reproduction of peonies

The propagation methods of herbaceous or tree peonies have their own characteristics, but there are the same methods for all types.

The propagation method suitable for any kind of peonies is propagation by seeds. It should be borne in mind that this method is quite lengthy, because the flowering of plants will appear on average only after 5 years. However, not all varietal peonies will retain their varietal characteristics.

The most commonly used method is the division of the bushes. This method is used for tree-like and herbaceous varieties without exception. The separated parts of the bush usually adapt quickly and flowers appear on them already in the second year after reproduction. The division of a grassy peony is also a kind of way to rejuvenate a bush. And tree-like plants can be divided only if they have grown sufficiently.

In addition to the basic methods, tree peonies can be propagated by cuttings and air layering. They also use the grafting of the roots of one variety onto another, including tree-like to grassy. Herbaceous varieties are propagated by root cuttings and separation of part of the plant.

Features of caring for a peony by season

Spring. The first sprouts of peonies appear early, even from under the snow. If autumn mulching of bushes was carried out, then in early April it is necessary to carefully remove the covering structure. In the first days of May, the first top dressing and preventive spraying against diseases are carried out.

Summer. Summer care includes weeding the ground around the bushes, timely watering and necessary feeding.

In autumn. Pruning of leaves, destruction of tops in case of fungal attack, or shelter with cut foliage if the plant is healthy.

In winter. Special warming is carried out if the peony is young or in severe winters. Older specimens under normal winter conditions will not require warming.

If the peonies don't bloom

A common problem when breeding peonies is the lack of flowers. This problem may have the following causes:

• excessive deepening of the kidneys during planting;
• little light and too wet soil;
• a large age of the bush, its rejuvenation by division is required;
• unsuitable composition of the soil base, acidic environment, the addition of ash or limestone is necessary;
• removal of buds during pruning in the previous year;
• insufficient amount of applied fertilizers.

Determining the problem moment will allow you to make the right decision and improve the condition of the peony, which will definitely manifest itself in the appearance of flowers on it.

Peony pests and diseases

Growing outdoors is an increased risk for the plant to be damaged by a disease or pest. The gardener's concern is to protect peonies from these negative influences.

Main pests:

• root nematode;
• caterpillars;
• bronze.

Bronze and caterpillars are collected from flowers by hand and destroyed. Additionally, a solution of aconite is applied to the plants.

To eliminate the root nematode, a special set of fertilizers is used and replanting in the immediate vicinity of peonies of plants that the pest does not tolerate.
Chlorophos is used to control aphids.

The most unwanted diseases of peonies are caused by fungi. This is brown spotting, rust, gray rot.

Gray rot is manifested by a characteristic grayish bloom on foliage and flowers. The trunk of the bush dries up and becomes brittle, the flowers turn black. For healing, fungicides are used, with which peonies are processed.

In order to prevent the disease, the soil is loosened, the distance between individual bushes is observed, and the stems and leaves are not left at the end of pruning.

If yellow spots are noticed on the foliage of peonies, then the plant is damaged by rust. Leaves begin to curl and dry. Eliminate the disease with the use of fungicides. In order to avoid the death of plants from brown spotting caused by a fungus, in the spring they are sprayed with infusion of celandine or Bordeaux liquid.

The peonies in the garden are magnificent. They make a great addition to any space. But it must be remembered that only proper care and maintenance of the plant will allow you to enjoy wonderful flowers for many years in a row.

Video tips: how to plant and care for peonies

Peony is one of the most amazing and beautiful ornamental plants. This flower is second only to the rose - the real queen of the garden. Peony flowers are short-lived, but they are able to fill the garden with marvelous colors and magical aromas, and give its owner unforgettable emotions.

Peony flowers are very different, they differ in color, shape and have a charming aroma. Peonies can grow long years, delivering real joy to their owners with their amazing colors.

Peony remains an adornment of any garden even after flowering: its leaves are no less beautiful and attractive.

plant homeland

This amazing flower was cultivated in China, as early as the 5th century BC. They were admired by the Chinese emperors. Peony lactiflora was the first to be cultivated - a plant common in China, Siberia and Mongolia. The name of this flower comes from the name of the legendary healer Pean, who was so skilled that he healed the wounds of gods and heroes.

This flower reached Europe quite late - in the 18th century and quickly became a universal favorite. He took his rightful place in royal gardens Europe, hundreds of breeders began work on breeding varieties. In the 19th century, the peony crossed the Atlantic and quickly conquered the New World.

General description of the flower

Peonies are a member of the Peony family. It includes 32 species.

These are perennial plants, with a herbaceous, shrubby or semi-shrub stem, reaching a height of one meter.

Although, the tree-like peony, which is a symbol of China, grows up to two meters. Peonies have a powerful rhizome, with thickened cone-shaped roots. Large leaves of rich green color are arranged alternately. The shape of the leaf plate is trifoliate or pinnatipartite.

Peony flowers are large, solitary. The petals form a corolla. There are five sepals, most often there are also five petals. Petals have a very rich color palette. There can be up to eight pistils, many stamens.

Complexity, whimsicality, availability of cultivation

Growing peonies does not cause much trouble, peony farming is not difficult even for not very skilled flower growers, subject to simple rules These flowers will bring you joy for years to come. This is another important reason for the wide popularity of the peony.

Breeders did not deprive the peony of their attention: today several thousand plant varieties are known, new ones are constantly appearing. There are several nuances that are important for the growth of a peony.

Planting peonies in open ground. Optimal time

Autumn- the best time for transplanting and planting peonies. In the spring, these manipulations are not recommended.

The most important thing when planting a plant is the right choice of location. Need to pay Special attention to the following:

• A peony needs at least five to six hours of intense sunlight.
• The flower does not tolerate drafts.
• It is better not to plant the plant in the lowlands.
• Don't plant the peony too deep, it won't bloom well.

Planting a flower in autumn

It is better to plant and transplant peonies in early autumn. This will give the plant enough time to prepare for winter.

Prepare planting holes. The hole should have dimensions of 60x60x60 cm. Place drainage (20 cm thick), top dressing consisting of humus, compost, lime, superphosphate and wood ash in the hole. Fill the hole to the top with a mixture of compost and earth. When the soil settles, you can start planting the plant.

In the next step, you should dig up the rhizome of the peony and this must be done very carefully. Better use a garden fork. It is necessary to dig a bush with them and extract the rhizome. Remove the soil and dry it. Then the rhizome should be divided into parts, 15 cm long, containing roots and several buds. It is recommended to lower the pieces of rhizome into a solution of potassium permanganate to destroy root rot.

Good results are obtained by dipping rhizomes in a solution of heteroauxin.

Remember, deep planting is one of the most common reasons for the lack of flowers. The upper bud should not be deeper than 3-4 cm. In the first year, the peony blooms very rarely and does not look too healthy.

Planting in the spring

Usually this plant is not planted in the spring. But if it is necessary, then it is better to do the following. Transplant the peony into a pot and place it in a cool room (in the cellar), keep the soil moist at all times. In May, plant the plant directly in a pot, and in the fall, transplant along with the ground in which the root system is located. Landing should be carried out according to the method described above.

Soil preparation and space in the garden

It is important to choose the right habitat for the plant, its growth depends on it. Choose a well-lit place for the flower, not far from the nearest shrub or tree. In the shade, peonies grow normally, but bloom much worse. The landing site should not be flooded with water.

peonies care

Peony is an unpretentious plant, it does not deliver to flower growers extra hassle. However, there are nuances in its cultivation, they need to be known.

Peony is able to grow on any soil, but loam (6-6.6 pH) is preferred. Peony does not like wet soils, so do not plant it in the lowlands. High humidity leads to rotting of the roots and death of the flower. If you did everything right, then the plant can not be fertilized for a whole year. Provide the plant with regular watering.

spring care

In spring, the plant needs abundant watering. You need to do it once a week, spending two buckets of water on each bush. Moisture is especially important during flower formation.

autumn care

In autumn, you should remove all withered leaves and parts of the stems and burn them, so you are guaranteed to destroy pathogens. Then it is necessary to cover each bush with ashes and leave to winter. Adult peonies do not need shelter.

Top dressing and fertilizer

In the first year after planting, it is better not to get carried away with top dressing. Then use liquid forms of top dressing. In early spring, nitrogen-potassium top dressing is used, during the period of bud formation, top dressing containing phosphorus and nitrogen is used. After its completion, potassium-phosphorus top dressing is recommended, it can be continued until mid-autumn.

Watering

For a peony, you need not very frequent, but quite plentiful. It is recommended to water it once a week, but spend at least two buckets of water per bush.

Watering is extremely important during peony flowering. Insufficient watering is one of the main reasons for the lack of flowers. Water should fall under the flower bush.

illumination

Peonies are sun-loving plants, they need 6 hours of sunlight. But the southern parts of the garden, where the plant can get burned, are best avoided.

Temperature regime

Peonies are not too demanding on temperature. They are quite suitable for the climatic conditions of the temperate zone.

Peony transplant

Peonies are transplanted in early autumn. First, choose the right place for planting and prepare the hole (this has already been discussed above).

For transplantation, it is necessary to carefully dig out the rhizome of the peony, prepare a hole for it and place the plant in it. Apply enough fertilizer.

reproduction

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method is most often used by gardeners. Have to take mature plant which has already bloomed. Then the rhizome is carefully dug in and carefully removed from the ground. Rotten roots are removed, and the rhizome is divided into parts (the planting method is described in detail above). The ground part is almost completely cut off. Usually these works are carried out in early autumn. Cover the landing site with a layer of peat.

Propagation by root cuttings

A fairly reliable way, it lies in the fact that part of the root is planted in the hole. By winter, it has time to take root and winters normally. But you will see the first flowers in a few years.

Reproduction by seeds

Peonies can be propagated by seeds. True, this does not preserve the quality of the variety. Growing peonies from seeds often used by breeders.

peonies bloom

Peony has a large single red, yellow, bright crimson or white flower. It can be terry, lush or look like a rosette. Numerous yellow stamens are clearly visible. Flowers usually appear in May or early June.

There are several groups of peonies that differ in the structure of flowers:

• Japanese. Stamens and pistils are located in the center of the flower, they form a kind of cluster (pompon).
• Non-terry. The flowers are large, two rows of petals, the leaves are corrugated.
• Semi-double. The flowers are large, the stamens are in its center, several rows of petals.
• Anemoid. The lower petals are very wide, the inner petals form a ball. It is considered a transitional form between terry and Japanese peonies.
• Terry. The flower has a spherical shape, when the petals open, a bright and colorful ball is obtained.
• Rosaceous. The flowers are large, the petals strongly resemble those of a rose.

After flowering, remove wilted flowers, and carry out another top dressing.

pruning

It is worth trimming peonies in late autumn, before the start of the first frosts, if this needs to be done earlier, leave a few leaves on the bush so that the plant can accumulate strength.

Autumn pruning is carried out almost to the level of the soil.

Preparing peonies for winter

In autumn, when the leaves turn yellow, you need to gradually reduce the intensity of watering. Newly planted plants should be covered with a layer of peat, and they will overwinter well. Peat should be removed in spring. Old plants are frost-resistant and there will be no problems with their wintering either.

Popular varieties of peonies

Breeders did a great job, today there is a large number of varieties of peonies. The variety of these flowers allows you to create amazing flower beds, arranging them with flowers of different colors and sizes.

It is impossible to name all varieties of peonies that are deservedly popular with flower growers. Let's just give some examples.

1. Variety "Starlight". They have large, light cream-colored, anemone-shaped flowers.
2. Variety "Suzy Ku". Huge double flowers are painted in a pleasant light pink color. The leaves are small and narrow.
3. Variety "Westerner". Has white flowers of average size of the Japanese form. Blooms relatively late.
4. Variety "White bowl". It has medium-sized flowers, dark pink in color.
5. Variety "Amabilis". The plant has light pink flowers, the petals of which turn white at the edges during the end of flowering.

The thin-leaved peony deserves special mention - a plant that has been bred by gardeners for several decades. This peony is listed in the Red Book, but among flower growers it is at the top of popularity.

ITO hybrids are also very popular: this is the result of crossing tree-like and grass-like peonies. An excellent example of such plants is

"Coral Sunset".

Another peony that is a frequent guest of our gardens is peony bartzella. This is a beautiful plant with Japanese-shaped flowers, bright lemon color.

pion diseases

Gray rot

The most dangerous enemies of peonies are diseases caused by microscopic fungi. Here are the main ones:

• rust;
• gray rot;
• powdery mildew;
• brown spotting.

Gray rot. Appears in May, affects leaves, stem and buds. A symptom of gray rot is a gray coating on the organs of the plant. It is better to burn the affected parts. An effective remedy are copper sulfate and fungicides.

Powdery mildew. A whitish coating forms on the stems and leaves. Fungicides are used to treat the disease.

Rust. The disease is characterized by the formation of dark brown spots. The disease leads to curling and drying of the leaf plate. Fungicides are used to treat the disease.

brown spot also manifests itself in the form of specific spots on leaves, stem sections and buds. They are off-white. The disease is dangerous, leads to leaf fall. This disease is treated with fungicides.

The main problems faced by novice flower growers

Why is the peony not growing?

A flower can grow poorly due to a number of reasons: the wrong choice of planting site (little light), insufficient mineral dressing or insufficient watering. Also, unsatisfactory growth is noted in the case of transplantation without dividing the rhizome.

Why is the peony not blooming

The absence of flowers on the plant most likely indicates an improper planting of the rhizome. It's probably set too deep. Also, poor soil and lack of top dressing, poor lighting of the plant, insufficient watering during the formation of buds leads to the absence of flowers. Too old plants do not bloom.

Why does the peony not rise

The germination of peonies depends on the quality of the seed material, as well as the degree of soil preparation.

The history of growing peonies has more than two millennia, during which a great many varieties and varieties have been created. But no matter how much peonies have changed, planting and caring for them in the open field have not changed much since then.

In order to enjoy the lush carved foliage and spectacular flowering year after year, the summer resident will have to master all the intricacies of agricultural technology and find out the preferences of these amazing ornamental plants.

All pion species that exist in nature come from Eurasia and the American continent, represented by herbaceous perennials and subshrubs. In Russian gardens, plants have long proved their unpretentiousness and the ability to grow and bloom in one place from 10 to 20 years without transplanting.

A place for planting and caring for peonies in the open field

The place for planting peonies is chosen so that the plant is as comfortable as possible for not only one season, but also several years. Since this culture belongs to light and heat-loving, up to 3 hours a day it can endure a transparent garden shade, but is afraid of the cold wind and draft, the peony is selected according to its requirements and shaded for the hottest, midday hours.

For several years, the root system of peonies can deepen up to 70–80 cm. To simplify the care of peonies in the open field, before planting, pay attention to the danger of flooding the site and stagnant scarlet or groundwater. Constant moisture greatly increases the risk of root rot and the death of the entire bush.

Actively growing peonies need space, tightness leads to a deterioration in flowering, the appearance of diseases and pests.

Peony planting conditions:

1. Planting pits are made at a distance of at least 1–1.5 meters from shrubs and other perennial plants.
2. Leave a gap of at least 2-3 meters to the nearest tree.
3. Do not plant peonies directly under the walls of buildings and fences.
4. Between the bushes, depending on the type and variety, leave from 70 to 180 cm of free space.

A bright, wind-protected area has been found, it's time to take care of the soil in which the peony is to grow. The soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction should be loose, aerated, nutritious. sandy soil flavored with humus, peat, wood ash and deoxidized with dolomite flour. Mix as needed garden soil. dense clay soil can be made more airy with river sand and a small amount of peat. Sand structure the nutritious, but quickly caking chernozem.

Rules for planting peonies for outdoor care

Unlike many horticultural crops, when planting which it is important to leave the growth point at the level of the soil or above it, peonies are deeply buried. The buds, from which the stems will subsequently develop, are sunk into it by 3–7 cm, depending on the density of the soil.

If this is not done, the most sensitive and main part plants will be unprotected in the rain, snow and sun. However, even with an excessively deep planting of a peony in open ground, caring for it can be not only time-consuming, but also in vain. Such plants form lush foliage in spring, but bloom weakly or refuse to form buds at all.

Peony planting rules:

1. Planting pits for peonies are made up to 80 cm deep for tree plants and up to 60 cm for the more common herbaceous varieties. The width of the pit is 60 and 50 cm, respectively.
2. The bottom, in order to avoid stagnant water, is covered with drainage.
3. The pit is filled two-thirds with the prepared substrate, mixed with 100-150 grams of superphosphate, one spoon iron sulphate and a liter jar of bone meal or sifted wood ash.
4. When the straightened peony roots fall into the ground, they are covered with loose soil for another 15–20 cm so that the buds are securely hidden below the ground level.

Care for peonies in the open field in spring or autumn begins immediately after planting. The soil is carefully compacted and watered at the rate of 8-10 liters of water per bush. If the plants have autumn rooting and wintering ahead, they are densely mulched with a 10-centimeter layer of peat. With the onset of spring, perennial care continues.

Planting peonies in the ground: spring or autumn

The most convenient planting time for the grower and favorable for the peony is the beginning of autumn. By this time, the root system of the perennial is growing, and he himself is recovering after flowering and accumulating strength.

If you have to plant in the open field and care for peonies in the fall, it should be done 30–40 days before the onset of stable cold weather. In this case, an adult transplanted plant or a young seedling obtained from dividing a bush is guaranteed to take root and not freeze through in winter.

The timing of planting decorative perennials depends on the climate of a particular region. The shorter the summer, the earlier it is worth taking care of the preparation of pits and planting material.

Boarding times:

1. Planting peonies in open ground in Siberia takes place in August, September and October, and in the northern regions it ends 1.5–2 months earlier than in the south.
2. In the Urals, where the weather is extremely changeable, seedlings are taken out into the ground from the second half of August to mid-September.
3. A week later, flowering perennials can be planted in the middle lane and in the North-West of the country.
4. And in the south of Russia, peonies can be planted without fear for the condition of the plant from September to mid-October.

When buying seedlings from a nursery or due to the early arrival of cold weather, planting is transferred to spring. Unfortunately, if the plants have an open root system, they do not tolerate such a procedure very well. Weakened peonies after wintering take a long time to acclimatize, and sometimes even for the whole summer they cannot recover.

To eliminate unpleasant consequences, planting peonies in the ground in the spring is carried out very early, in the soil moist after the snow melts, until hot weather sets in, and the plants themselves do not grow.

The exception is peonies with a closed root system in containers. They can be safely planted from spring to autumn.

Care for peonies after planting in open ground

Vegetation of peonies begins in early May and ends in late autumn. Caring for peonies in the open field in spring begins with very careful loosening of the soil, watering if necessary, and fertilizing.

Peonies are watered infrequently, but very plentifully, in order to completely wet the earthen ball and the roots that have braided it. Since the plant has to grow foliage and prepare for flowering, the peony needs complete mineral fertilizers and nitrogen.

Top dressing of peonies in the open field is done on wet ground. In order for the mixture to get to the suction roots faster, a shallow hole is made around the bush, at a distance of 10-15 cm, into which the solution is poured. In the summer, especially for young plants that have not reached the age of 3–4 years, foliar top dressing with urea is useful. They are applied three times with a frequency of 15–20 days from the moment the shoots appear.

During dry periods, peonies are watered at the rate of 10-15 liters per bush. It is especially important to maintain soil moisture in the first month after spring planting.

On flowering peonies, wilted flowers are regularly removed. On young plants, under 3 years old, all weak buds are also removed. All summer I weed the area under perennials, and in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, the shoots are cut off, and the soil is mulched. If the planting is carried out correctly, and the plants receive competent and sufficient care, the first flowering of the peony will begin in 2-3 years, gradually becoming brighter and more magnificent.

Planting a peony in autumn - video

They are distinguished by a variety of forms and types. Decorative plant in luxurious terry and semi-double petals of bright colors, openwork greenery. Varieties and hybrids of peony are found everywhere. For every grower, it is important that peonies please their buds every year. And this can be achieved if you properly care for the plant.

Peonies are prized for their early summer blooms. Usually spring flowering plants are not as luxurious and bright as peonies. Therefore, fragrant bushes become a true decoration of the site. But in order for the flowering to be long and lush, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for the plant.

During periods of peony growth, there are times when buds are few and unsightly. Plants bloom poorly due to improper care for them. The soil is depleted over time, which leads to a halt in development of pions. You can feed planting flowers with mineral fertilizers. It is advised to make three or four wells around the bushes, stuffing them with branches or inserting pipes there. And through the holes to make liquid mineral and.

fungal diseases characteristic of the plant, and do not allow it to fully develop.

Often the roots of old bushes are exposed, which leads to a deterioration in flowering. It is worth covering the plants with earth, as the buds will appear abundantly. A lot of inflorescences on the plant will not allow the peony to be decorative. For one bush, twenty flowers are enough. The rest are best cut.

Peonies bloom poorly when the summer is dry or rainy with low temperatures. In such cases, it is difficult to correct the poor flowering of the plant. It remains to wait for a favorable period. Adult plants up to ten years old can be in one place and bloom luxuriantly with proper care.

A peony will bloom every year if you properly care for it:

1. For ornamental bushes, soil moisture is important throughout the summer. Water two to three buckets per plant every two weeks during drought, monthly during the wet season.
2. Peonies need intensive nutrition with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. Plants are fed along with watering and loosening. Fertilize in autumn and early spring. From organic fertilizers, wood ash, diluted in a ratio of 1:6, - 1:12, is suitable for peonies.
3. Before the onset of winter, when the stems fall down, they are mowed down, leaving renewal buds at the bottom of the shoots.

During flowering, side small buds are removed, which favors the appearance of large peonies, which will decorate the site together and for a long time.

Peonies must be looked after not only during the growth of buds and the appearance of buds, but also after flowering:

• Bushes are watered more actively at the beginning of summer and, when renewal buds are formed, in July until August 10. It is carried out before the appearance of buds spraying with copper chloride to prevent fungal infections. The treatment is carried out with a solution prepared from ten liters of water and forty grams of copper oxychloride.
• During cutting for bouquets, do not forget to leave two lower leaves on the stems, and after drying the heads of the inflorescences are cut off. Do not leave cut and fallen leaves on the site, they can become a source of fungal infection.
• In order for flower buds to be laid on time, it is necessary to fertilize with potassium, phosphorus in early spring and in August. The bushes are also watered and loosened constantly even after flowering in July. Hydration should be deep, not superficial. This is especially true for mature plants. Be sure to water abundantly two weeks before flowering and before wintering.
• For a successful wintering, decorative bushes are cut and covered with a layer of humus or peat. If reproduction and transplantation of peonies is planned, then the procedure is carried out in August, from the middle of the month.

Properly caring for peony bushes, you can achieve decorativeness of the plant, the duration of flowering.

More information can be found in the video:

The history of growing peonies has more than two millennia, during which a great many varieties and varieties have been created. But no matter how much peonies have changed, planting and caring for them in the open field have not changed much since then.

In order to enjoy the lush carved foliage and spectacular flowering year after year, the summer resident will have to master all the intricacies of agricultural technology and find out the preferences of these amazing ornamental plants.

All pion species that exist in nature come from Eurasia and the American continent, represented by herbaceous perennials and subshrubs. In Russian gardens, plants have long proved their unpretentiousness and the ability to grow and bloom in one place from 10 to 20 years without transplanting.

A place for planting and caring for peonies in the open field

The place for planting peonies is chosen so that the plant is as comfortable as possible for not only one season, but also several years. Since this culture belongs to light and heat-loving, up to 3 hours a day it can endure a transparent garden shade, but is afraid of the cold wind and draft, the peony is selected according to its requirements and shaded for the hottest, midday hours.

For several years, the root system of peonies can deepen up to 70–80 cm. To simplify the care of peonies in the open field, before planting, pay attention to the danger of flooding the site and stagnant scarlet or groundwater. Constant moisture greatly increases the risk of root rot and the death of the entire bush.

Actively growing peonies need space, tightness leads to a deterioration in flowering, the appearance of diseases and pests.

Peony planting conditions:

1. Planting pits are made at a distance of at least 1–1.5 meters from shrubs and other perennial plants.
2. Leave a gap of at least 2-3 meters to the nearest tree.
3. Do not plant peonies directly under the walls of buildings and fences.
4. Between the bushes, depending on the type and variety, leave from 70 to 180 cm of free space.

A bright, wind-protected area has been found, it's time to take care of the soil in which the peony is to grow. The soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction should be loose, aerated, nutritious. Sandy soil is flavored with humus, peat, and deoxidized with dolomite flour. Mix in garden soil as needed. Dense clay soil can be made more airy with the help of river sand and a small amount of peat. Sand structure the nutritious, but quickly caking chernozem.

Rules for planting peonies for outdoor care

Unlike many horticultural crops, when planting which it is important to leave the growth point at the level of the soil or above it, peonies are deeply buried. The buds, from which the stems will subsequently develop, are sunk into it by 3–7 cm, depending on the density of the soil.

If this is not done, the most sensitive and important part of the plant will be left without protection in the rain, snow and sun. However, even with an excessively deep planting of a peony in open ground, caring for it can be not only time-consuming, but also in vain. Such plants form lush foliage in spring, but bloom weakly or refuse to form buds at all.

Peony planting rules:

1. Planting pits for peonies are made up to 80 cm deep for tree plants and up to 60 cm for more common herbaceous varieties. The width of the pit is 60 and 50 cm, respectively.
2. The bottom, in order to avoid stagnant water, is covered with drainage.
3. Two-thirds of the pit is filled with prepared substrate, mixed with 100-150 grams, one spoonful of iron sulfate and a liter can of bone meal or sifted wood ash.
4. When the straightened peony roots fall into the ground, they are covered with loose soil for another 15–20 cm so that the buds are securely hidden below the ground level.

Care for peonies in the open field in spring or autumn begins immediately after planting. The soil is carefully compacted and watered at the rate of 8-10 liters of water per bush. If the plants have autumn rooting and wintering ahead, they are thickly covered with a 10-centimeter layer of peat. With the onset of spring, perennial care continues.

Planting peonies in the ground: spring or autumn

The most convenient planting time for the grower and favorable for the peony is the beginning of autumn. By this time, the root system of the perennial is growing, and he himself is recovering after flowering and accumulating strength.

If you have to plant in the open field and care for peonies in the fall, it should be done 30–40 days before the onset of stable cold weather. In this case, an adult transplanted plant or a young seedling obtained from dividing a bush is guaranteed to take root and not freeze through in winter.

The timing of planting decorative perennials depends on the climate of a particular region. The shorter the summer, the earlier it is worth taking care of the preparation of pits and planting material.

Boarding times:

1. Planting peonies in open ground in Siberia takes place in August, September and October, and in the northern regions it ends 1.5–2 months earlier than in the south.
2. In the Urals, where the weather is extremely changeable, seedlings are taken out into the ground from the second half of August to mid-September.
3. A week later, flowering perennials can be planted in the middle lane and in the North-West of the country.
4. And in the south of Russia, peonies can be planted without fear for the condition of the plant from September to mid-October.

When buying seedlings from a nursery or due to the early arrival of cold weather, planting is transferred to spring. Unfortunately, if the plants have an open root system, they do not tolerate such a procedure very well. Weakened after wintering, they acclimatize for a long time, and sometimes even for the whole summer they cannot recover.

To eliminate unpleasant consequences, planting peonies in the ground in the spring is carried out very early, in the soil moist after the snow melts, until hot weather sets in, and the plants themselves do not grow.

The exception is peonies with a closed root system in containers. They can be safely planted from spring to autumn.

Care for peonies after planting in open ground

Vegetation of peonies begins in early May and ends in late autumn. Caring for peonies in the open field in spring begins with very careful loosening of the soil, watering if necessary, and fertilizing.

Peonies are watered infrequently, but very plentifully, in order to completely wet the earthen ball and the roots that have braided it. Since the plant has to grow foliage and prepare for flowering, the peony needs full and nitrogen.

Top dressing of peonies in the open field is done on wet ground. In order for the mixture to get to the suction roots faster, a shallow hole is made around the bush, at a distance of 10-15 cm, into which the solution is poured. In the summer, especially for young plants that have not reached the age of 3–4 years, foliar top dressing with urea is useful. They are applied three times with a frequency of 15–20 days from the moment the shoots appear.

During dry periods, peonies are watered at the rate of 10-15 liters per bush. It is especially important to maintain soil moisture in the first month after spring planting.

On flowering peonies, wilted flowers are regularly removed. On young plants, under 3 years old, all weak buds are also removed. All summer I weed the area under perennials, and in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, the shoots are cut off, and the soil is mulched. If the planting is carried out correctly, and the plants receive competent and sufficient care, the first flowering of the peony will begin in 2-3 years, gradually becoming brighter and more magnificent.

Planting a peony in autumn - video

Knowledge about planting and care peonies will be needed by every gardener who decides to decorate his site with these beautiful flowers. An unpretentious perennial plant does not require much effort and time. But to get large flowers with rich colors, you will need to follow a number of rules for planting and care in the open field for peonies which can be found in this article.

Description and photo

In Russia with success grown 2 types peonies:

1. treelike;
2. grassy.

bushes peonies during flowering, they are covered with bright flowers with a rich color.

Depending on the variety, they can have several shades:

• bright red;
• snowy white;
• pink;
• burgundy;
• you can even find yellow peonies.

According to the shape of flowers, varietal plants can be:

• lush, literally filled with bright, large petals;
• with a terry surface of the petals;
• there are varieties with small flowers in the form of rosettes, with a beautiful core.

Depending on the region peony, treelike or herbaceous, blooms in mid-May or June. Perennial bushes with a massive and branched root system grow up to 0.8 m high.

Before planting, the gardener must choose the right place for the plant. Peonies, planting and care which are carried out taking into account the requirements of agricultural technology, will bloom for at least 10 years.

AT wild nature, flowers grow in subtropical conditions. Most domestic flower growers grow up herbaceous species of peonies. Let us analyze in more detail the process of implementing agrotechnical measures for cultivation this kind of flowers.

Planting peonies

Place

When choosing a place for a planting hole for a plant, it is necessary to take into account several main points:

• best priming- light, with a neutral or low level of acidity. When planting in sandy soil, you will need to add humus, compost and soddy soil to the hole. Loam or clay soil needs to be "ennobled" river sand with the addition of peat as mulch. Screened river sand is also introduced into the black soil;
• peonies lag behind in development during an unscheduled transfer of the plant to another place, therefore landing must be carried out for a long period of time;
• bushes can be planted in partial shade, but for normal development, the plant needs to be provided with sunlight for at least 3 hours a day;
• flowers love a warm place, without drafts and constantly blowing winds;
• for seedlings, a place with a normal level of humidity is selected. In wetlands, additional soil drainage will be required at planting sites;
• the depth of root germination is 0.7-0.8 m, so planting holes should be dug taking into account the drainage layer.

Important! To ensure normal conditions for the growth and development of flowers, it is required to select a site that takes into account all the requirements of the list. Another rule is that each plant should have space for ventilation and penetration of sunlight to the roots. Only such work will prevent the occurrence of diseases and allow the peony to bloom with large and beautiful flowers.

rules

1. Holes for seedlings are located at a distance of at least 1.5 m from tall plants on the site;
2. From garden trees, holes are dug at a distance of 2 m. It is not recommended to plant shrubs near the fence or walls;
3. The minimum distance between bushes between plants should be 0.7-1.8 m (depending on the variety peonies);
4. For herbaceous varieties peony, the depth of the hole should be at least 0.6-0.7 m, and for tree species - from 0.8 m. Dimensions of the landing pit - 0.6 by 0.6 m;
5. A layer of drainage with a depth of 0.1 m from expanded clay or broken brick is poured at the bottom - it will not allow moisture to collect at the root system of the shrub;
6. When planting, fertilizer is required. To do this, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of iron sulfate and a liter jar of sifted wood ash. Nutritious priming falls asleep in lower part holes, and sod land is poured on top;
7. The roots of the seedling are neatly straightened along the entire length, the bush is installed on the poured nutrient priming. In order not to damage the delicate root system of the seedling loose priming poured out in small portions.

Reference! When planting peonies, you will need to deepen the "growth point". The depth of penetration of the kidney, from which the stem of the bush sprouts, is 3-5 cm.

Unburied buds are above the soil level and exposed to the sun, moisture, frost and other harmful factors. Such a seedling dries up and dies. A large planting depth causes a slowdown in the development of the bush and weak flowering.

Timing

Deadlines can change significantly:

• in different regions of Siberia peonies start planting from the beginning of August;
• in the Urals, flower growers begin to autumn planting in August - the first decade of September;
• the western and central regions of the country - the optimal time is in September;
• on South landing starts in early October.

Planting in autumn

Autumn is the most optimal period for planting seedlings in the open priming. Work begins a month before the onset of frost. Seedlings tolerate winter well. Having passed the natural stratification, the bushes develop well upon the onset of a warm period. The start time of work is determined depending on the climatic features of the region.

The beginning of autumn is the time for planting shrubs. The mother bush gains strength after flowering, the root system grows. Planting material is strong and takes root well and prepares for winter.

Planting in the spring

Spring planting peony possible with a late purchase of planting material in the nursery or due to the sudden arrival of a cold front in the fall. Seedlings with an open root system are more difficult to tolerate such conditions. Plants are weakened after winter, so they take root for a long time and long time get sick. Seedlings are lagging behind in development, they may not take root especially in hot weather.

Important! To avoid the consequences of spring planting, work must begin immediately after the first thaw. The soil is saturated with moisture and before the summer heat arrives, the seedlings will be able to acclimatize and take root in a new place. But if the seedlings are sold with a closed root system in separate containers, work can be carried out even in the summer.

Care

Care behind peonies does not require much effort and time.

Would need:

• water the plants, the rate of watering 1 bush is up to 10 liters of water;
• supply nutrients in a timely manner;
• periodically loosen the soil under the bushes.
• the ground under the bushes is mulched with peat, old sawdust or sunflower husks, it is especially important to carry out this operation in the autumn, after planting the bushes.

autumn

If you plan to transplant seedlings and propagate bushes - best period comes at this time. But planting shrubs around the site is not required so often, so caring for peony includes the removal and trimming of old stems and foliage from the site and their mandatory burning. Such an operation will destroy diseases and pests wintering in fallen leaves. The cut stems are covered with wood ash. This is a list of the main autumn works.

spring

Spring is the time for top dressing and the start of the main work on cultivation beautiful flowers with bright colors. You should not water the bushes often, it is better to do it less often, but increase the watering rate. It is 20-30 liters per plant. Such work provides nutrition for developing bushes during the budding period. After each watering, a layer of mulch is necessarily added, and the soil in the aisle is loosened.

When watering, especially on a sunny day, it is important that moisture does not get on the foliage and flowers. Water must flow directly under the bush, otherwise there is a high risk sunburn foliage.

top dressing

foliar top dressing

For foliar top dressing, you will need to dilute the nutrient in water and spray the shrubs from the sprayer. The best time is early morning or cloudy weather. Wet leaves should not be exposed to direct sunlight.

During the summer there are 3 different foliar top dressing shrubs:

• 1 - top dressing. Shrubs spraying with urea diluted in water (for 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of urea).
• 2 - top dressing. using urea and mineral fertilizers(for 10 liters of water 40 g of nitroammophoska).
• 3 - top dressing (for 10 liters of water 40 g of nitrophoska).

For adult bushes, during the period of bud formation, processing can be carried out organic fertilizers. To do this, bird droppings are mixed with water, in a ratio of 1:25, or mullein, in a ratio of 1:10, the solution is filtered and sprayed over the buds peonies.

Root top dressing of peonies

During the vegetative period of bush development, 3 root dressings will be required:

• 1 - top dressing. In early spring, immediately after the onset of heat, it is necessary to feed weakened overwintered plants. For this, any nitrogen fertilizer is used (nitroammofoska 40 g for each bush). It is evenly scattered under the bushes. Melt water dissolves the granules and it slowly penetrates to the roots.
• 2- top dressing. Dry fertilizer (40 g of ammophoska) is also scattered under a bush and watered abundantly
• 3- top dressing. It is carried out similarly to the previous top dressing.

pruning

Peony Care in open ground requires several pruning of stems and damaged buds. In autumn, all stems are pruned at a distance of 10-15 cm from ground level.

Advice! If necessary, cut the stem at another time, pruning is done so that at least 3-4 sheet plates, replacement buds will be laid in these places for the growth of new stems next year.

Cut stems, foliage and flowers are taken out of the site and burned in a special barrel.

Transfer

Bushes after transplantation take root within 2-3 years, so such an operation is carried out in case of emergency. But the old bushes develop poorly, the flowers become small. Once every 10 years, the bush is planted by dividing the roots. After that, you need to plant young bushes.

Start the process in August or September. The bush is carefully dug together with earthy clod. The soil is washed off with water from a watering can or hose. Cleaned plants are inspected, removing the diseased, and shortening the long roots. The cut sites are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with crushed coal.

Watch the video! Peonies for beginners

Methods for propagating peonies

reproduction peonies carried out in 2 main ways:

• by germinating root cuttings;
• division of the mother bush.

Root cuttings

This technique is used for cultivation rare varieties, when there is not enough planting material and there is no way to divide the bush peony. The work is carried out in several stages:

• work is best to start at the end of May. From adult 4-year-old bushes peony when pruning the stems, cuttings are harvested. From 1 bush you can get up to 15-30 blanks;
• cuttings are placed in a special solution for 7-8 hours. Use "Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin" (100 ml per 10 liters of water);
• rows of cuttings are planted on a separate bed with prepared soil. 2 buds are left above the ground.

By dividing the bush

Work begins at the end of summer:

• a strong plant with beautiful flowers is chosen;
• in autumn, it is carefully dug out of the ground;
• stems are shortened to 150 mm;
• gently cleaned from the ground and washed with warm water;
• for 3-4 hours the rhizome is left to dry, so the roots will be easier to separate;
• with a sharp knife or pruner, the bush is divided so that there are at least 3-4 strong buds on the root of the seedling, while trying to save as many young roots as possible that have grown from the rhizome;
• seedlings are placed in a growth activator for 8 hours;
• cuts are treated with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or dipped in wood ash.

The sapling is ready. It can be planted in a prepared planting hole. Any variety can be propagated in this way. peony.

peonies after flowering

In different regions, flowering ends from May to June. During this period, it is important to remove damaged stems and wilted flowers from the bushes. 2 weeks after the end of flowering, to support the plant, it will be necessary to fertilize the flowers with a solution of mineral potassium and phosphorus fertilizers (40 g of ammophos for each bush).

In August, the flowers will need to increase the watering rate - during this period, the flowers begin to lay replacement buds.

Preparing for winter

In autumn, when the shoots and foliage turn yellow, watering is reduced and is reduced to a minimum during autumn precipitation. The first frosts begin on the soil - it's time autumn pruning bushes. The stems are cut flush with the soil and covered with a layer of peat or sawdust, up to 70 mm thick.

Important! Such processing is obligatory for young bushes, old plants calmly endure severe frosts.

In the spring, during the first thaws, the excess layer of mulch crumbles along the aisle, the sprouts are freed from the mulch.

Diseases and pests

Peony- this plant is not subject to many diseases under normal care. However, bushes can be affected:

1. Gray rot. Appears in case of non-compliance with the rules of watering and an increased rate of water volume or thickened planting of bushes, on stems and foliage. Affected bushes without assistance become moldy, buds and foliage turn black. Affected stems, and maybe all the greens are cut and burned. Affected bushes and healthy ones are treated with a solution of copper sulfate or an infusion of garlic. To prepare a solution of copper sulfate:

• 1 tbsp copper sulphate;
• 10 l. water.

Infusion of garlic:

• 5-6 cloves of garlic chop;
• 1/2 glass of water;
• insist for 24 hours.

Dilute the resulting mass with water in a three-liter jar.

spray peonies.

1. Septoria. On the peony brown spots appear. Control measures are similar to those for gray rot.
2. Powdery mildew. A white, powdery coating appears on the foliage. It is easy to get rid of the disease by treating the leaves with a solution:

• 200 grams of soap;
• 20 grams of vitriol;
• 10 liters of water.

1. The plant, especially the young one, begins to dry out and turn yellow - perhaps the tender stems have been gnawed by rodents or a bear. If there are root lesions, then the plant needs to be transplanted.
2. If there are no buds on the bushes, it is possible that deep landing or excess fertilizer. It is required to stop feeding and release the root collar.

Peony- This is an unpretentious plant that, with minimal experience and time, will delight gardeners with the beauty of large, beautiful flowers and a unique aroma. The main thing is to responsibly follow all the recommendations outlined in the article and enjoy pink, white, purple colors in your garden.

Watch the video! Planting a peony

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