Bathroom extractor dimensions. Kinds

The bathroom in the apartment is the wettest place, and the most close attention. Regular water procedures residents, produce saturated water vapor.

It condenses on the walls and ceiling, leading to dampness, growth of fungi and mold. The hood in the bathroom should supply 25 - 50 m 3 / h of fresh air.

If the room is combined with a bathroom, then even more - about 50 - 100 m 3. How to choose equipment and organize everything correctly.

Before buying something, it is important to find out what types of ventilation systems are in general in the bathroom. There are only two of them:

1. Natural.
2. Forced.

natural ventilation

Air flows are mixed and displaced due to the difference in pressure and temperature. You can ensure free circulation simply by opening the door, but this is not convenient, and humid air still remains in the apartment.

In multi-apartment houses usually make a common ventilation shaft. The entrance to it is closed with a grate, and the degree of purification and efficiency will depend on the condition of the channel.

In private houses channels for natural ventilation are laid during construction. However, you can make changes and bring ventilation pipes to the attic in the finished building.

• The grate covering the hole should be located at the top of the room, and in the bathroom at all the best way- ceiling.
• Several exhaust devices on the same floor can be combined into one outlet.
• Surface inside ventilation pipes should be as smooth as possible.
• Curves and protrusions of the duct reduce the circulation efficiency by 5% each.
• If a turn is necessary, it must be made smooth.

Experts consider natural ventilation ineffective and advise avoiding its use for residential buildings (more suitable for country houses where people are not all year round).

Forced ventilation

Sometimes a forced exhaust in the bathroom is required. This type ventilation is much more productive than the first. Assumes application mechanical devices. Usually this is a duct or overhead fan, which can turn on as needed, create draft and thus renew the air. Air duct channels are also mounted, which supply the waste stream to the attic of a private house.

The fan only provides air extraction. Its fresh inflow must come from the rooms of the house through open door or a gap under the door. But you can’t do forced ventilation in the bathroom!

Bathroom fans: types

There are two types of structures:

1. Axial.
2. Radial or centrifugal.

Axial

This is a classic impeller mounted on a shaft.

The impeller blades are made at a slight angle. The shaft is rotated by an electric motor.

A draft is created and the fan sucks in the flow, passing it through itself and being cooled by it.

The design is popular, simple, but you need to make sure that the pressure generated will be enough.

Radial or centrifugal

The flow is sucked in the center of the device, enters the casing with the blades. They are located in such a way that a vacuum is created in the center, and due to centrifugal force, air is thrown from the middle of the body to its edges and is removed through the outlet pipe on the side wall.

Overhead models of bathroom fans with a centrifugal principle operate more efficiently and quietly. They can pump volumes that axial models cannot handle.

You can also divide the devices according to the degree of completion:

1. Basic.
2. Automatic (with sensors and timer).

Choosing a fan for organizing a ventilation system

The specifics of the room prompted designers to create devices adapted to high humidity.

The fan is powered by electricity, which means that its housing must be completely sealed, and the design must be reliably protected from damage by wet steam.

The International Electrotechnical Commission has developed reliability standards for electronic machinery.

It is denoted by the letters IP and two numbers. The value of the first shows the level of protection against the penetration of foreign particles and objects (from 0 - an unprotected device, up to 6 - even dust will not penetrate), and the second - moisture protection. The last indicator has 8 positions. Bath equipment should have a score of 4 or higher (no need to strive to find a device with a score of 7 or 8 - such devices are designed to work under water).

The ventilation device must come with a certificate indicating the level of safety. It is recommended to take the device with IP-34 and more.

Power and performance

These indicators are interconnected: the higher the power, the greater the performance. Also, in the accompanying documents, it may be indicated how long the duct is designed for the device.

What performance is needed, you can find out by multiplying the volume of the bathroom by a number from 5 to 10.

Where 5 is minimum value, which can be used if one person lives in the apartment. 10 - the bath is used often, because a large family lives in the house.

If the fan is equipped to the maximum with various additional features, its power should exceed the calculated one by 5-10%.

Typically, fans are economical devices that consume only 7 - 20 watts.

If you install a device with a large power reserve, this will contribute to the fact that a draft will be felt in the room, it will not have time to warm up, and the sound of these units is louder.

Noise level

Of course, the fan blades create some noise during operation, but it is not as noticeable as, for example, a kitchen hood. 30 dB and below is quite an acceptable indicator for these devices (the human ear perceives sound above 35 dB as intrusive).

Timer

Usually ventilation devices for bathrooms are controlled mechanically (came - turned on, left - turned off), or work in a continuous reduced mode.

The presence of a timer makes the fan semi-automatic.

It continues to function for some time after the owner has left the premises, after which it turns off by itself.

Hygrostat

Bathroom hood with humidity sensor – very convenient option. A hygrometer or humidity sensor is the preferred control method. A person sets a humidity threshold (usually from 40 to 100%). When this threshold is reached in the room, the fan will turn on automatically. The presence of both a hygrostat and a timer is common, but in practice, if there is a humidity sensor, it is preferred and the timer simply does not come in handy.

And in this topic, everything about the types and types of structures supply and exhaust system, as well as the characteristics of ventilation equipment.

Diameter

It is necessary to take measurements from the vent in the bathroom, or the diameter of the duct if ventilation is being built in a private house. The landing size is usually 100 - 130 mm. The hole in the wall, of course, can be expanded with a puncher, but why do this, it is better to choose the device in size.

Reverse

The reversing device periodically changes the direction of the flow: either by sucking out air or by supplying it from outside.

Such a unit was developed as an inexpensive way to organize supply and exhaust ventilation.

It can be done only under one condition - if the device exits to fresh street air, and not to the high-rise building shaft!

However, a reversible hood cannot be recommended for toilets or bathtubs. AT living rooms wet or saturated with not the most pleasant odors, air will penetrate.

check valve

Its presence is especially important for urban bathrooms connected to a common ventilation duct. This small device will not allow exhaust gases from other apartments to enter the house.

Appearance

Many manufacturers, such as Elicent and Electrolux, produce fans with a replaceable outer panel. They are the most different shades, which means that the device can fit the interior so that it does not catch the eye.

You need to buy a model with a removable panel not only for design reasons, but also because it is much easier to wash!

How to install a hood in the bathroom?

The body of the device can be completely located in the exhaust duct (the grate is flush with the wall), or it can be laid on the wall or ceiling.

As a fastener, you can use dowels, liquid nails or self-tapping screws - depending on the surface material.

For example, in order not to drill the finished tiled flooring, liquid nails are used. Excess glue is cut off with a knife after drying.

The number of attachment points should be kept to a minimum.

To reduce the noise level, it is possible to apply a sealant around the hole on the wall (thickness - about 3 mm, the main thing is that the fan does not touch the wall).

The channel hole can additionally be laid inside with soft rubber.

Electrical part

Power supply rules:

1. There should be no open wires in the bathroom, even insulated ones. They need to be placed in buried channels and “dressed” in a corrugated casing.
2. Many people prefer to connect fans to the light switch via a contact pair. For ease of repair, you can make a separate hood switch.
3. The switch should not be set to zero, but to phase.
4. If the device is with a timer, two wires go to power and one to ground.

Bathroom hood - cost

The difference in them will be in performance, power, size, and, of course, the presence of a thermostat and a hygrometer.

On average, a good device can be purchased for 2 - 2.5 thousand rubles.

Installation of the device by a specialist will cost about 3,000 rubles (of course, a lot depends on the area and the requests of the master).

Conclusion

It turns out that such difficult problem high humidity and obscene odors, it is solved very simply. Installing a fan will not take much of your effort and money, but it will become great helper in the struggle for a comfortable microclimate.

During cooking, by-products that are undesirable to breathe enter the air. solve this problem, while this option is cheaper than others and the unit is easier to install.

Popular models of air dryers will be considered in the review. Ballu, Timberk and other manufacturers.

Related video

The bathroom differs from other rooms of the house in high humidity, which is formed as a result of the adoption of bathing procedures by the owners. Excess moisture condenses on pieces of furniture, household appliances, walls, ceiling, plumbing fixtures.

If you do not ensure its removal using, then the room will constantly be damp, and mold may appear in the corners. Designed to combat high humidity natural ventilation, which removes moist air into the ventilation shaft.

Often she does not cope with her work due to insufficient traction or clogging of the mine. In this case, it is recommended to buy a hood in the bathroom, which will forcefully draw air from the room. And even a budget one will do.

For normal operation hoods must ensure a loose fit door leaf to the hole. For example, make a small gap at the bottom of the door.

But some of them have blinds that open when turned on. Another part of the models is completely blank panels. Air is drawn into them through several side holes.

2 Overview of popular bathroom hoods

The variety of hoods for the bathroom is now so great that it is very difficult to choose a particular model. However, we dare to short review some models.

This is an axial type hood for small and medium-sized rooms, which can be installed directly into a ventilation shaft with a diameter of 10 cm. There is a built-in mosquito net.

Main characteristics of Vents 100 K:

• Productivity — 95 cubic meters/hour.
• The external size of the grille is 154 x 110 mm.
• Power - 14 watts.
• Noise level - 34 dB.

The price of the Vents 100 K bathroom hood is $25, which is almost identical to the budget ones.

2. VORTICE MF 100/4T

Wall-mounted axial hood with check valve, which automatically closes when the power is turned off. The device is equipped with a delay timer, which can be set for up to 20 minutes.

Main characteristics of VORTICE MF 100/4T:

• Air duct diameter - 10 cm.
• Noise level - 31 dB.
• Power - 15 watts.
• Productivity — 85 cubic meters/hour.
• Manufacturer - Italy.

You can buy a VORTICE MF 100/4T bathroom hood for $40. The price, as you can see, is about the same as the budget ones.

3. Blauberg Aero 125H

This is a powerful axial hood with a humidity sensor and an adjustable shutdown timer.

Main characteristics of Blauberg Aero 125H:

• Power - 16 watts.
• Noise level - 39 dB.
• Performance - $193.
• Air duct diameter - 12.5 cm.
• Producer - Blauberg (Germany).

The Blauberg Aero 125H costs about $45.

Bathroom and toilet - rooms with permanent high level humidity, which serves as a favorable environment for the reproduction of bacteria and mold. The ventilation system for these rooms is not a nice addition, but a necessity!

Installed in accordance with the rules, the hood for the bathroom and toilet allows you to remove excess moisture, preventing damage to walls, furniture and interior elements.

The hood in the toilet and bathroom is arranged natural or forced, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Natural

The movement of air flow during natural ventilation occurs due to the difference in air temperatures inside and outside the room.

To enhance the draft at the outlet of the ventilation duct, a special device can be installed - a deflector, which improves the operation of ventilation in windy weather.

Natural ventilation systems are cheap, easy to install and maintain, and do not require power supply.

Natural exhaust in the bathroom and toilet - simple and economical solution ventilation problems in the presence of good traction. At the same time, it is impossible not to ignore its shortcomings:

• unstable job in hot weather, at which there is no required temperature difference;
• high sensitivity to clogging of ventilation ducts.

Forced

If for one reason or another the natural hood does not work, you have to install forced ventilation.

Forced air removal is carried out by means of fans or other devices. Extractor for toilet and bathroom forced type does not depend on external conditions, and with the right selection of the fan model, it can operate in any mode.

The disadvantage of forced ventilation is the need for electricity and the need to lay wires to each fan.

You can check the operation of the hood in the bathroom and toilet in two simple ways without using special equipment- using a candle or a sheet of paper.

A burning candle is brought to the ventilation duct - when the ventilation is running, the flame is deflected, indicating the direction of air flow. In the absence of thrust, the flame remains vertical.

Regular temperature changes and the use of water in the bathroom make it the wettest room in the apartment. Vapors from hot water settle on horizontal and vertical surfaces in the form of condensate, create a steam room when taking a shower or bath.

As a result of high humidity, pockets of mold form on walls, ceilings and corners. To prevent the development of the fungus, modernize ventilation system. One way to create a comfortable microclimate is to install equipment such as an extractor hood in the bathroom.

It would seem that stagnation in a combined bathroom or bathroom should not exist, since any living space is equipped with natural ventilation. Moreover, a properly planned ventilation system is one of the conditions for comfortable adoption of water procedures.

If it's about apartment buildings, then the scheme includes through ventilation shafts that end in the attic or technical floor and have exits in all bathrooms and kitchens without exception. Moreover, modern norms and rules recommend separate ventilation ducts to each apartment individually.

Previously, channel equipment was used brickwork, now these are concrete wells or pvc pipes.

On the scheme of the apartment ventilation device, the lines and exit points of the ventilation openings are indicated. The circulation is arranged in such a way that air enters one room and is removed from another.

Natural ventilation involves the spontaneous circulation of air that exits through holes in the walls or ceiling into a shaft located in the wall ceilings.

Scheme of the structure of the ventilation system of a private one-story house may vary slightly: most often the shaft begins with a hole in the ceiling and ends with an exit to the roof.

When designing and installing ventilation, the following rules are followed:

• for each room there is a separate air duct located vertically;
• during the construction of channels, one should choose a material that guarantees the unhindered passage of air, that is, with smooth inner walls;
• it is allowed to combine several air ducts into one in the attic area;
• if the toilet and bathroom are located in the same apartment, natural ventilation devices can be connected.

The standard scheme for the movement of air masses in a city apartment: Fresh air enters through the windows of the rooms, "used" exits through the vents in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet

If a natural traction does not justify itself, and the circulation is not enough to keep the air fresh, they install forced ventilation - a device that forces air masses to move from rooms to the mine.

Sometimes the device of the forced system is regulated sanitary standards and rules (SNiP). For example, if a sauna with an electric furnace or a steam generator is installed in the house. In this case, we recommend that you apply for special calculations of the required fan power and pipe diameters in certified organization. Information can always be found on the websites of your city.

When is a hood installed?

Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to independently determine the condition and efficiency of the ventilation system. You don't need any special skills or special tools to check it. There are "markers" that make it easy to recognize insolvency natural circulation:

• fogging mirrors and glass surface during the adoption of water procedures;
• wet background that does not disappear over time (towels dry slowly);
• the appearance of black dots on the tile joints, in the corners of the ceiling and along the perimeter of the bath - the beginning of the development of fungal foci.

The appearance of mold and fungus is accompanied by bad smell, the gradual destruction of the decorative wall decoration, however, there is a more serious danger - Negative influence on the health of the owners of the apartment.

Consequence inadequate ventilation- the appearance of mold on the grout in the tile joints. If you do not establish air circulation in time and do not get rid of small foci, the fungus will cover all concrete, plastic, plastered, wooden surfaces

Perhaps the ventilation is faulty. Checking in a simple way- with a lit match. If the flame quickly goes out or leans towards the hood, then the reason lies elsewhere, but if it remains motionless, then it is necessary to clean the shaft and the forced ventilation device.

The most popular device that provides maximum air circulation is a fan.

The traditional air movement test is not always effective, for exact definition If there is a sufficient level of circulation, a qualified person with an anemometer should be invited

Do-it-yourself extractor hood in the bathroom

For self-assembly the most suitable fan is inserted into the technical frame and equipped with a hydrostat (humidity sensor). The cost of the device depends on the power, the volume of pumped air and the availability of additional functions.

For example, the simplest electric model with a power of 40 W costs about 3,000 rubles, and a silent German device with touch sensor and a reverse protection valve - 12,000 rubles.

One of the simplest options is an inexpensive centrifugal fan with round section without additional equipment, installed in the center of the ventilation hole

Preparatory work and installation requirements

Before starting installation work electrical device it is necessary to check whether the ventilation shaft is functioning. Too narrow a passage, clogged with grease and dust, requires cleaning. The homeowner on his own can clean the channel leading from the apartment to the central riser.

To do this, carefully remove the grate, remove a layer of dust from it, rinse with detergents and dry. The walls of the channel, covered with dirt, can be treated with a scraper or a stiff brush, then thoroughly vacuumed and wiped with a damp cloth.

It will be possible to clean a small section ventilation duct, however, even preventive work will improve traction.

The small diameter of the hole makes the ventilation duct difficult to access and does not allow you to properly clean its walls. Use improvised material - hard brushes with handles, brushes

It will not be possible to clean the central highway on its own, since access to common house engineering systems open only to special services. Perhaps it makes sense to consult with the neighbors and leave a group request to have the main shaft professionally cleaned along the entire length of the riser.

Having provided a path to the exit of air from the room, you should take care of supply ventilation. To do this, it is necessary to arrange a gap through which the replacement air would enter the bath. How more distance from the inlet to the hood, the more efficient the ventilation will be.

Sometimes it is enough to make a small, 1.5-2 cm wide gap between the door and the threshold, but if there is not enough traction, a grill should be installed at the bottom of the door leaf.

In the diagram, the red arrows indicate the movement of supply ventilation. It must have access to the bathroom, toilet and kitchen, otherwise the circulation will be disturbed, and the installation of the fan will be useless

The last point is the choice of a ventilation device model with suitable characteristics: correctly selected power, noise level, functional indicators. The device must be safe for others and easy to maintain. Preference is usually given modern models with timer and humidity sensor.

The hydrostat (humidity sensor) responds to high humidity and turns on the device in automatic mode.

Be prepared for the installation electric hood requires additional construction works, including the installation of holes in the wall or ceiling, cable laying with subsequent finishing.

Ways to connect to the power supply

The feasibility of one or another connection method depends on the location of the hood, the features of the interior design and technical capabilities the device itself.

Here are the most common options:

• inclusion by means of the button or a cord;
• simultaneous connection with lighting fixtures;
• automatic switching on by humidity level;
• control of a separate switch key.

It is most convenient to use a fan with automatic control: no force is required: it automatically turns on when the humidity level increases. It can be installed in a wall, in a corner or on the ceiling - in any inaccessible place, because there is no need for daily maintenance.

For the wiring device, they ditch the wall or mount the box.

The only disadvantage of such models is the high price.

The most common way to mask wires is to lay the wires under a layer of ceramic tiles. There is another option - eyeliner in the sub-ceiling space, if hinged plastic panels or drywall

Inexpensive models are usually equipped with a power button or a short cord, which, if necessary, must be pulled. Problems arise if the exhaust outlet is located above the toilet, bathtub or high on the ceiling - this complicates access to the device. If a fan of this type is installed during the repair process, the lace is replaced with a switch, which is located in the accessibility zone, and the leash is led into the wall.

Combining the simultaneous switching on of the lamp and the fan is convenient, but not always rational: one press activates two devices. The fact is that the air does not always have time to ventilate by the time you leave the bathroom, and leaving the light on for the sake of the fan is uneconomical.

Now there are models with delayed fan shutdown. Typically, this is ten minutes by default. Some devices have a minute scale and a lever for self setting. Sometimes there is equipment with a low-power light source - a "night lamp" that burns all the time the fan is running.

A common simple solution is two-gang switch– the lighting can be turned off and the fan left on, and vice versa.

Scheme of connecting a fan to a light source in a bathroom. The switch, as usual, is led out into the corridor, and a junction box with clamps is additionally installed inside the room

If a ceramic tile not yet laid, the wiring is best hidden under it. In completely finished premises you will have to use plastic camouflage boxes. Against the background of designer tiles, they will look out of place, but they will fulfill their main function - ensuring security.

How to properly prepare the installation site?

The ideal place to mount the hood is a vent for natural air circulation leading to a common riser. It is present in all bathrooms and bathrooms and is usually located in the upper part of the main wall, under the ceiling.

The dimensions of the hole allow (during the normal functioning of the system) to pass 100 m³ / h, which is optimal for small bathrooms or combined bathrooms in brick and panel houses of typical construction.

Before buying a ventilation device, be sure to measure the diameter of the outlet, otherwise, during installation, you will have to further expand or narrow the finished opening

The fan is selected taking into account the dimensions of the outlet. The standard diameter parameters are 10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm, respectively, the fan dimensions should be similar. If you have purchased a powerful hood, the dimensions of which are larger than the hole, then it can be expanded with a puncher.

Often, the area of ​​​​bathrooms in private houses and apartments with an improved layout exceeds 10 m², and one ventilation hole is not enough. It is possible to equip an additional channel, however, it is impossible to make changes to the engineering scheme of the premises on your own, you must contact the specialists.

Fan mounting

For self installation basic skills required construction tool and detailed diagram-instruction, which usually comes with the device. Manufacturers who value their reputation describe the installation process in an accessible form and on different languages, accompanying the instructions with clear pictures and diagrams.

The absence of a manual suggests that the company, most likely, will not give guarantees and will not be responsible for the breakdown of the device.

Bathroom fans are made of lightweight material, have compact dimensions and a high level of protection against moisture ingress.

So, having cleaned the ventilation duct, stretched the electrical wires and prepared the hole for installation, we act in the following order:

• remove the upper decorative grille from the device;
• check the conformity of the dimensions of the channel and the fan;
• we fix the device in the hole (or pipe, if it is necessary to narrow the opening) using sealant, polymer glue, liquid nails or self-tapping screws;
• close the joints and the remaining gaps;
• return the grid to its place;
• connect the device to a power source;
• testing.

The installation process takes no more than 20 minutes, so we advise you not to rush and do all the manipulations carefully. If there was a thin mosquito net between the grill and the mechanism, be sure to put it back. It protects the premises from small insects, which sometimes penetrate the bathroom through the ventilation shaft.

We offer you to watch a video instruction for installing a fan with your own hands:

Before you make a hood in the bathroom or bathroom, you need to pick up a fan with desired characteristics. A device with insufficient functionality will not be able to provide a comfortable atmosphere in the room, so you should carefully study all the characteristics of the model you like.

The table of air exchange rates presents the parameters that are optimal for various residential and utility rooms. Maximum values ​​- in rooms with a high level of humidity

Pay attention to power. Minimum- 60 m³ / h, maximum - 250 m³ / h, devices with a capacity of less than 100 m³ / h are not recommended to be installed. The moisture protection class is also important, it is usually marked with the letters IP and for special wet rooms, for example, bathrooms, has an IP value of 34 and higher.

The main protection is a sealed case, so carefully inspect the device at the time of purchase.

If you love comfort and modern technical improvements, pay attention to models with motion sensors, which turn on the mechanism only in the presence of moving objects.

However, more useful is a humidity sensor - a hydrostat. If it is present, the need for control over ventilation is completely eliminated, since it is sensitive to an increase in humidity and independently controls the process of air circulation.

The power of the exhaust fan for the Marley CB-100 bathroom is only 1 watt during continuous operation. Touch settings make adjustments easy, while automation makes maintenance easier.

The timer is useful for those who like everything in order and are used to independently regulating the operation of electrical appliances. You can set the time most convenient for airing, and the device will function when you take a shower or, on the contrary, have finished water procedures.

Another important addition to apartment buildings- check valve. It serves as a barrier to the movement of air from other rooms (kitchens, neighboring apartments). And the last thing that should interest you is the level of noise emitted by the device during operation. The maximum comfort limit is 25 dB.

Tips for choosing a bathroom fan in the following video:

If you are accustomed to making repairs yourself in own apartment, to understand the device of the fan and its installation is not difficult.

However, we recommend entrusting the construction of a new ventilation duct or cleaning the central line to specialists.

If the mirrors and walls in the bathroom constantly fog up, the air is stale, and mold appears every now and then in the corners, this means that natural ventilation cannot cope with its task. Solving this problem is simple - you need to install an exhaust fan. The choice of modern exhaust devices is very wide - from the simplest to silent models with timers and sensors. In order to ensure the maximum indoor efficient air exchange, you need to know by what criteria it is worth choosing fans and how to install them correctly.

The design of the exhaust fan is quite simple: housing, motor, impeller with blades. There are models equipped with a check valve that does not allow foreign odors from other apartments to enter the room, which is very important for high-rise buildings.

The air duct of the exhaust device is connected to the general ventilation system or is output separately through the wall to the outside. According to the mounting method, all exhaust fans are divided into ceiling and wall, as well as built-in and overhead.

Ceiling ones are less in demand, although they are distinguished by high performance and simple installation. Such a fan is able to actively circulate a large volume of air, so it is great for spacious bathrooms. But most consumers still choose wall-mounted models, both built-in and overhead. They are easy to install, easy to use, easy to clean and replace. Thanks to compact size and modern design cases, they look quite aesthetically pleasing, fitting perfectly into any interiors.

Depending on the internal device, fans are divided into:

• electrical – simple models with built-in or external switch. That is, the residents of the apartment must independently turn the device on and off as needed. A very common option is when such a fan is connected to a general switch in the bathroom, and then the hood turns on simultaneously with the lamps. True, in this case, moisture does not always have time to completely go into the ventilation, but electricity consumption is reduced;
• automatic- exhaust devices equipped with special sensors. Models with humidity sensors automatically turn on as soon as the moisture level exceeds the norm, and turn off when the condensate has completely evaporated. Models with motion sensors turn on when a person appears and turn off when the room is empty. There are also automatic fans with timers that operate only for a predetermined interval of time.

Exhaust fans are also classified according to the type of construction. In the domestic sphere, the most popular are axial and channel devices that are suitable for multi-storey and private houses.

In axial fans, the movement of air occurs along the axis of rotation of the blades, which is the reason for such a name. The design is very simple: a body (usually cylindrical), an impeller with blades, an electric motor. Many models have a front-mounted manifold that improves aerodynamic properties. Blade design reduces drag air flow so that the fan has high efficiency. According to the type of installation, such devices can be both wall-mounted and ceiling-mounted.

Most modern axial fans are characterized by low power consumption and reduced noise level, unlike the models of the previous generation. They can work for a long time without stopping, are easy to clean, and have an attractive design. For these devices to be effective, the length of the duct should not exceed 4 m. The same applies to the area of ​​​​the bathroom - than less room, the more effective the hood.

Duct fans

For bathrooms large area ducted or centrifugal fans are best suited. Their design differs markedly from axial devices: inside the cylindrical body there is a drum with many narrow curved blades. With the help of centrifugal force generated by the blades during rotation, the air is drawn inward and directed to the ventilation duct.

Such fans work effectively with air ducts with a length of 4 meters or more, they are installed both on the ceiling and on the wall (depending on the modification). The extraction can be carried out continuously, but usually the device is connected to a switch in the bathroom or to a humidistat. This saves energy and extends the life of the fan. Many models are designed for concealed installation and are relatively quiet, so that they are almost invisible in the bathroom.

Advantages and disadvantages

If you still doubt the advisability of installing such fans in the bathroom, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the advantages of exhaust devices:

As for the shortcomings, there are very few of them:

• fans cannot work absolutely silently, and their buzz can annoy some consumers;
• electricity consumption increases, albeit slightly;
• The device requires regular cleaning and lubrication to function properly.

Also, a lot depends on the correct installation: if the fan is not positioned correctly, air circulation is disturbed, and quality hood nothing to say.

Exhaust fan selection rules

So, if the decision to buy a fan is made, you need to choose the right model so as not to be disappointed later. You need to choose at once according to several parameters - performance, safety, noise level and, of course, in terms of quality-price ratio.

Performance

This criterion is the main one, because the efficiency of air exchange depends on it. Here it is important to choose the right power of the device relative to the area, since the same fan gives a different result in a small and large bathroom. According to building codes, the air exchange rate for the bathroom is 6-8 units, that is, in an hour the entire volume of air in the room should change from 6 to 8 times. As a rule, if no more than three people use the bathroom, they choose a multiplicity of 6, if more than three - a multiplicity of 8. The calculations are not difficult to perform: you need to find the volume of the room and multiply it by the air exchange rate.

For example: there is a bathroom with dimensions of 1.9x1.7 m and a height of 2.65 m, 3 people use it. We calculate the volume of the room - 1.9x1.7x2.65 \u003d 8.56 m. Round up to 9 and multiply by the multiplicity - 9x6 \u003d 54 m3.

It turns out that for such a bathroom the best choice there will be a device with a capacity of 54 m3 / h. Of course, it is not always possible to find a model that best matches the calculated parameters, so you can choose a fan with a small margin of performance.

Security

Fans are available for bathrooms and toilets. additional protection electrical contacts from moisture, which must be indicated in the instructions and on the packaging. If you put a normal model, and water gets into it, this can provoke short circuit and even a fire, so you can’t risk it in any case.

Now you can find low-voltage extractors specifically designed for bathrooms and saunas. They have moisture and thermal protection, and can work effectively at 100% humidity and high temperatures. True, the cost of such fans is higher, and they cannot be connected to a conventional electrical network, which entails additional costs, but the safety of the residents is worth it.

Noise level

The noise produced by the fan should not exceed 30 dB, otherwise it will irritate the household. If you plan to turn on the fan at night, choose a model with a noise level of up to 25 dB. The lower this indicator, the more comfortable you will be in the bathroom with the hood turned on. This is especially true for those whose fan runs continuously.

As for the quality of fans, it is better to focus on well-known trade brands, whose products have already been tested by time. For example, mass positive feedback have household fans trade marks Soler & Palau (Spain), VENTS (Ukraine), Electrolux (Sweden).

These companies value their reputation, so their products are different. high quality assembly and durability. The main thing is to buy fans in specialized stores, where they can present an appropriate certificate for the product and issue a warranty card. So you avoid the risk of buying a cheap fake, not branded equipment.

Additional Fan Features

A photo	Name of add. functions
	Timer
	Hydrostat or bathroom fan with humidity sensor
	Motion Sensor
	Constant ventilation
	Clock on the front of the fan
	check valve

How to install an exhaust fan yourself

Exhaust fans - photo

The process of installing the fan itself takes a minimum of time, but before that you need to properly prepare everything, think over the connection method, and, if necessary, lay a cable for power supply. All wiring should be located in strobes and hidden under the cladding to eliminate the slightest risk of contact with water. If the fan is ceiling, and the ceiling itself is suspended, then there is no need for strobes: the wiring is attached directly to ceiling, fixing with special clamps. Of course, all wires must be in the corrugation.

To connect the fan, a three-core VVG cable is usually used - it allows you to supply zero, ground and phase to the device from the switch.

Moreover, the switch can be either single-key or two-key. The second option is preferable: you can turn the fan on and off regardless of the light.

If you do not have experience with electrical wiring, you should invite a professional electrician for this, because any mistake or negligence can lead to serious consequences. After the cable is laid, you can proceed with the installation of the fan.

For work you will need:

• Bulgarian;
• drill with drills for tiles and concrete;
• pencil;
• connecting terminals;
• regular and indicator screwdrivers.

Step 1. Unpack the fan, check its integrity and completeness. Usually fasteners are included, but if they are missing, you should buy self-tapping screws and plastic dowels in advance.

Step 2 Prepare the vent. If it was covered with a cladding, you need to attach the fan housing to the tile and carefully circle it with a pencil. After that, a cut is made along the contour with the help of a grinder. If the hole was open, you need to clean it from dust and construction debris, make sure that the fan fits well and does not cling to the edges.

Step 3 Remove the front panel and the inner cover of the fan from the device, put them aside. Now you need to mark up the fasteners. To do this, the fan is inserted into the hole until it stops, aligned, guided by the seams of the tile or building level, and through the holes in the body mark points with a pencil.

If the fan has a rope-switch, you need to dismantle it

Step 4. A drill is inserted into the drill with victorious tip and carefully, at low speeds, drill through the tile at the marked points. Then they change the drill and, in the hammer drill mode, they go deep into the concrete. The finished holes are cleaned of dust and plastic dowels are inserted into them.

Step 5 Once again try on the fan to the hole and determine where the cable will pass. In this place, a semicircular groove is cut out with a grinder, corresponding in size to the cross section of the wire. A hole for the wire is also drilled on the body of the device.

Step 6 The fan is brought to the wall, threaded electrical wire through a hole in the case, then lead it into the groove and insert the fan. Fix it to the wall with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Advice. In order not to drill the wall, you can fix the fan with silicone sealant. The device weighs a little, moreover, it is partially held by the wall, so such a mount is quite enough. The main thing is that the sealant is of high quality and waterproof.

Step 7 Perform the connection. The wires are alternately interconnected using terminals, after which the connections are wrapped with electrical tape for greater reliability.

Step 8 Close the fan with a lid, which is screwed in the center with one screw, and then turn on the power and check the operation of the device. Now it remains only to insert the protective grid and secure the front panel. Many masters prefer to do without a mesh, as it quickly becomes dirty and stops passing air. To avoid this, you have to regularly remove it and rinse with water.

This completes the installation of the fan. In the process of use, you will need to clean from time to time ventilation grill and blades from accumulated dust. If, after cleaning, the hood works poorly, this indicates that the exhaust channel is clogged. In apartment buildings, it is impossible to fix such a problem on your own and you need to call a specialist. But in a private dwelling, it is much easier to clean the ventilation system, so many homeowners do it on their own.

Video - Exhaust fan in the bathroom

Video - Installing an exhaust fan