Do-it-yourself plastic ceiling installation. How to make a ceiling from plastic panels? Do-it-yourself ceiling installation from plastic panels

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, you need to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, because the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is even and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done immediately, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

• The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. After trying it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

You can use different materials to finish the ceiling, but PVC panels are the most practical, affordable and easy to install.

Any home craftsman can make a ceiling from PVC panels with his own hands, for this you need to purchase or rent the necessary tools, study the installation sequence and the recommendations of specialists.

In order to independently, you first need to correctly calculate their number and the required length, figure out how the installation of the supporting structure and the panels themselves is carried out, after which you can begin to work.

Before starting to calculate the amount of materials needed, you need to decide which PVC panels you will use, since they have different sizes. pay attention to the fact that the panels are ceiling, and not. Since they are not subjected to serious loads on the ceiling, their strength will be less, respectively, and the cost will be lower.

The standard dimensions of the ceiling panels will be as follows:

• thickness within 3-5 mm;
• width from 125 to 350 mm;
• length is usually from 2.7 m to 6 and even 10 m.

Ceiling in the bathroom

Of great importance is such a parameter as the width of the material. If you veneer, there will be fewer seams, so the surface will look more solid. Narrow panels have their advantages: they are much easier to work with, but they produce a large number of seams. Experts recommend using medium-width material for finishing the ceiling, so it should be 250 mm.

When you decide on the length and width of the panels, be sure to pay attention to the quality of their workmanship. When choosing a material, pay attention to the following characteristics:

• it is necessary to observe the geometry of the products, and their surface must be even and smooth;
• if there is a drawing, then it should be applied clearly and evenly;
• stiffeners should not shine through on the front side;
• compare several types of panels, the more stiffeners they have, the stronger the structure will be;
• pay attention to such characteristics as the thickness of the stiffeners and outer walls;
• try to connect two parts, docking should be easy, and the gap should be minimal, almost imperceptible;
• check the material for bending, it should not crack and change its shape.

Calculation of the number of panels for the ceiling

To calculate the number of PVC panels, you first need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in which the ceiling will be finished. To determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, multiply its length by its width. On the packaging of PVC panels, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element must be indicated. It remains for you to divide the resulting ceiling area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone element, and you get the number of panels needed.

When determining the number of panels, a fractional number is usually obtained, it is rounded up, 15-20% is added, which will be spent on cuts, and the number of panels that you need to purchase is obtained. It is necessary to focus on the length and width of the room, decide how the panels will be installed, along or across, and in accordance with this, choose the required length of the elements.

Ceiling with LED lights

In addition to the required number of PVC panels, the number of metal profiles used for the crate is calculated. To do this, make a diagram of the room on paper and draw parallel lines along the wall at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other. Carry out the calculation and get the required length of the profiles.

The standard length of a galvanized profile is 3 m, so the resulting length is divided by 3 and the number of profiles is obtained. If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 m 2, then transverse strips are also installed, the number of which is calculated separately, in accordance with the scheme for their installation.

Ceiling finish option

A more rigid profile is installed on the walls along the perimeter; to determine its quantity, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the ceiling. The calculation is carried out for dowels for fastening profiles to the ceiling and self-tapping screws, with which PVC panels are attached to the crate. For every 50 cm of a profile or panel, one dowel or self-tapping screw is required.

To determine the length of the ceiling plinth, you need to divide the resulting room perimeter by 3 (the length of the plinth), round up to a larger integer, and you will get the required number of elements.

Instead of a galvanized profile and self-tapping screws, when creating a crate in a room with normal humidity, you can use wooden elements and staples.

PVC ceiling installation

Regardless of the material used to create the frame, the markup is done in the same way. Usually the distance between the profiles is 60 cm, marks are made on the ceiling across the direction of laying the panels on opposite sides, and markings are applied using a chopping cord.

Ceiling installation

If the frame is attached not to the surface of the ceiling, but on suspensions, then the line marked on the walls around the perimeter of the room is lowered to the required distance. In addition, on broken lines for profiles, every 50-70 cm marks are made for attaching suspensions.

Support structure device

If the PVC ceiling is lowered, then at first the suspensions are fixed at the marked points, this is done with the help of dowels. At the next stage, a metal profile is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room. First, it is installed on the marked line, then holes are made in the wall at a distance of 30-40 cm, they are made through the profile and immediately fixed with dowels.

Now the ends of the profile cut along the length are inserted into the wall profile, and it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the suspensions; for the reliability of the structure, this must be done on both sides to each suspension. After that, the ends of each element are fixed with screws.

ceiling lining

After mounting the frame, electrical wiring is carried out; for this, the corrugated pipes are attached to the suspensions, and the cable is already laid in them.

If the area of ​​​​the room is more than 6 square meters, then transverse jumpers must be installed between the longitudinal supporting profiles, which are needed to enhance the rigidity of the structure.

Ceiling cladding with PVC panels

Regardless of what material was used to create the frame, the installation of PVC panels is carried out in the same way. Keep in mind that wood is easier to work with, but metal elements are lighter and more durable.

Installation of PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

• along the perimeter of the room, a starting bar is mounted on the installed profile;
• if it is planned to install a ceiling plinth, then a special rail is installed for it;
• after that, the ceiling plinth is mounted;
• the first panel is inserted into the gap on the plinth or starting bar, which has a U-shape;
• the first element is aligned and fixed with screws or brackets to each carrier profile;
• the next panel with its spike should fit snugly into the groove of the previous one, the parts should be tightly connected so that the gap between them is minimal;
• after that, the panel is fixed, and so all subsequent elements are mounted;
• in those places where the fixtures will be installed, holes are pre-made in the panels, and during installation, the cable is output into them;
• the last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one. If its width is large, then you have to cut it to the desired parameters;
• at the wall, the panel can be fixed with self-tapping screws through and through, since then they will be hidden under the plinth;
• it remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and;
• installation and connection of spotlights is carried out in ready-made places.

Expert advice when finishing the ceiling with PVC panels:

• in order to prevent the reproduction of fungus and mold, the surface of the panels, as well as all wooden elements, must be treated with special means before installation;
• even if the ceiling is even, plastic panels cannot be glued to concrete, as there will be no ventilation;
• buy only high-quality material, an attempt to save money by purchasing cheap materials leads to the fact that they quickly lose their color and shape, they can release harmful substances;
• before installing the panels, be sure to make electrical wiring and check its performance;
• in rooms with high humidity, you can not make a frame of wooden elements.

Summarizing

If you decide to finish the ceiling yourself, then the best option, which has a beautiful appearance and low cost, is to use PVC panels. Installation of this material is easy, so you can cope with the work without outside help, it is enough to study the installation technology and follow all the recommendations of specialists.

Related video

• familiar stranger
• Preparation of the base ceiling
• Lathing device
• Installation of plastic panels

Until recently, there were not so many ways to finish the ceiling. Whitewash, paint with water-based emulsion. The daredevils still dared to glue the ceiling with wallpaper - that's all. And today there are suspended, stretch, mirror, stained glass ceilings, etc.

Ceiling sheathing with plastic panels is the easiest, most economical and fastest way to finish.

To date, one of the most popular, especially among those who like to do everything around the house with their own hands, has become a plastic ceiling. Such popularity is due to the fact that making a plastic ceiling is quite simple, especially for those who have had to deal with suspended ceilings, and it will cost only a little more than a plasterboard ceiling.

familiar stranger

Strictly speaking, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling.

It is attached to the main ceiling with the help of special suspensions on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. Only the material for panels instead of drywall is polyvinyl chloride, one of the safest and most harmless types of plastic. Suffice it to say that in addition to wall and ceiling panels, food containers are made from PVC.

Such a ceiling is easy to do with your own hands, giving it an attractive appearance. Panel seams will not be visible on it, besides, it will last you much longer than the plasterboard counterpart, and it requires the most minimal care - from time to time to remove dust from the plastic. This is easy to do with a damp cloth, as plastic is absolutely not afraid of water.

When choosing panels, it is important not to confuse and not buy wall panels instead of ceiling panels. Although they are made of the same material, they differ significantly. Wall panels are much heavier than ceiling panels, which makes a huge difference.

If you mount such panels on the ceiling, you will get a significant load on its frame. And this is fraught: one fine day, the frame may simply not withstand, and the ceiling will collapse. And if you install ceiling panels on a wall, they deform over time, since their mechanical strength is much lower.

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Preparation of the base ceiling

Types of plastic panels.

Making such a plastic ceiling with your own hands is no more difficult than a regular plasterboard suspended ceiling. Installation of any false ceiling, incl. and plastic, you should start with the preparation of the base ceiling. Its surface must be thoroughly cleaned of exfoliated lime or plaster and treated with an antifungal solution.

Then you need to take care of the electrical wiring passing through the ceiling. Indeed, in most cases, lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on the ceiling. Before mounting the ceiling, you need to fix the wires and at least bring them to the switch. Wires must be securely insulated. Jokes with electricity are dangerous, so if you do not have enough experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

To mount the plastic ceiling yourself, you will need the following tools:

Scheme of fixing PVC panels.

• puncher or electric drill with a drill bit;
• hacksaw for metal;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• square;
• rebound paint cord;
• water level;
• screwdriver

From the materials do not forget to purchase:

• antifungal solution;
• suspensions;
• dowels (be sure to take the same diameter with a drill with which you will drill holes);
• plastic panels;
• ceiling profiles;
• self-tapping screws.

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Lathing device

Installation of plastic ceilings.

The frame for a plastic ceiling can be made from both wooden slats and a metal guide profile. Still, the second option is preferable, since the metal is less susceptible to changing its dimensions under the influence of temperature and humidity.

You need to decide in advance how far you will lower the panels. At the same time, you need to take into account the depth of your lamps - mainly from 5 to 10 cm. Having decided on the height, you need to install and fix the profile guides strictly horizontally. Here it is better not to rush and double-check everything several times. Otherwise, rushing and setting the wrong profile, you will not leave yourself any other choice but to make the ceiling oblique, which will immediately catch your eye.

From the base ceiling at the corners of one of the walls, the required distance is measured down. It is important that the marked marks are at the same level, so be sure to check their location using a water level. Then these two marks are connected with a cord into one horizontal line.

Taking the measured horizontal as a guideline, you need to draw the same lines around the entire perimeter of the room, checking them with a level. This will be the horizontal plane to make the ceiling even.

The next step in the installation will be the installation of metal guide profiles along the marked border. The profiles are fixed directly to the wall by drilling holes in it with a perforator or drill, using plastic dowels and galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening.

In order not to break the horizontal line when fastening the profiles, the end of the unattached profile is laid at the end of the attached one, then its other end is laid strictly according to the markup, and the profile is attached to the wall along its entire length.

Having finished installing the profile on the walls, you need to install the profile on the ceiling itself. To do this, on the ceiling along the direction of installation of the ceiling profile, you need to fix straight suspensions in increments of 50-60 cm. The suspensions must be fixed strictly along a straight line, breaking it off with a paint cord. Ceiling profiles are attached to these suspensions, and guide profiles fixed on the walls are laid at the ends. With this false ceiling design, there is no danger that one day it will fall on your head.

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We make a ceiling from plastic panels: detailed instructions and a photo report for the work performed

Greetings. In this article I will talk about how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. Nowadays, finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is becoming more and more common in the decoration of such premises as bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, balconies, etc. And this is not surprising, since the use of plastic panels allows you to finish the ceiling quickly, cheaply and for a long time.

Features of facing with plastic panels

Plastic panels or as they are called plastic lining are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Such a finishing material is distinguished by the following qualities:

• Light weight due to the hollow structure;
• Structural rigidity due to the presence of longitudinal stiffeners in the internal volume of the bar;
• Abrasion resistance due to through-painting of plastic;
• Chemical resistance- PVC lining can be washed with anything, with the exception of acetone-containing solvents;
• Variety of colors and textures(there is even a peach color with a matte surface);
• Affordable price compared to wooden lining.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling is carried out with the preliminary installation of a supporting frame - crates made of a metal profile or a wooden beam. As a result, it becomes possible to easily and efficiently install communications and lighting equipment. This advantage will be relevant when arranging a kitchen or hallway, where a suspended ceiling and spot lighting are traditionally installed.

What sizes of PVC panels are preferred when finishing the ceiling?

It seems to me that narrow planks, with rare exceptions, do not look very good on the ceiling. In addition, narrow lining is more difficult to mount, since more strips have to be fixed, which takes more time. The optimal size is the length of PVC panels 3 meters and a width of 250 mm.

I draw your attention to a very important point - when buying a plastic lining, do not unpack the pack and inspect each panel from the front side for relief. As you can see in the photo, the new board has dented areas, which means that it will need to be replaced with a board of the same size and color, but without damage.

At what distance should the plastic cladding recede from the draft ceiling? The minimum distance is determined by two parameters:

• The lowest point on the draft ceiling, since it is at this point that the finish will be equal
• The thickness of the selected profile.

How to make a plastic ceiling? The main stages of work to be carried out are listed in this table.

Let's consider the above steps in more detail.

Assembling the frame for mounting panels

What is better to use for assembling the crate - a metal profile or a wooden beam?

It all depends on what materials are available. That is, if there is a bar, we use it, if there are metal products, we install them.

If there is neither one nor the other, I advise you to use a profile, since it is not inferior in strength to wood and at the same time weighs less. In addition, the price of a metal crate will be more affordable than the cost of a frame made of timber, and installation will be faster.

To implement this stage of installation work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Perforator and drill bits for concrete;
• Screwdriver with the function of a drill and a drill for metal;
• Scissors for metal;
• A hammer;
• Water level and lace;
• Stable ladder;
• U-shaped metal profile 25×50×25 mm;
• Mounting hangers, taking into account the location every 40 cm along the length of the intermediate profiles;
• Self-tapping screws for the assembly of metal structures from the profile;
• Screws with plastic dowels.

How to install a crate for a plastic ceiling in the bathroom?

• We determine how much the new ceiling will be lowered relative to the standard ceiling;
• Using the level, we mark the location of the profile along the perimeter of the walls;

• We connect the points set in the corners, beating the line with a lace;
• We measure the length of the walls according to the markup;
• The resulting dimensions are transferred to the U-shaped profile and cut into fragments that will be fixed along the perimeter of the walls;
• If the used profile is non-perforated, we drill holes in it with a drill for metal according to the diameter of the prepared dowels, taking into account the step between the fasteners no more than 40 cm;

• We apply the prepared profiles to the line, beaten off along the cord, and drill holes for the dowels in the wall;

If, as in our case, work is carried out in a tiled room, we use a perforator and drills with victorious surfacing to drill the walls. We fasten the belt from the profile in two passes. First, in the drilling mode, we pass through the tile. Then, in the impact mode, we drill the wall.

• We drive dowels into the holes made and fix the profile according to the markup;
• On the overlap with a cord, we beat off the location of the intermediate profiles;
• On the marked lines on the dowels with a step of no more than 0.5 meters, we fasten the suspensions;

• We start intermediate guide battens into a profile fixed along the perimeter of the room and fasten them with screws to the suspensions;

The profile in the middle of the room can sag under its own weight. So that a characteristic “belly” does not form during the installation of the crate, we stretch the cord in the center of the room between the profiles fixed around the perimeter. As a result, the intermediate crossbars in the crate should touch the cord, but not push through it.

By the way, it happens that the metal profile is short, which means that from several smaller planks you need to assemble a bar that fits in size. How to do it?

In fact, there is nothing complicated. It is necessary to dock two pieces of the profile and insert a piece with a smaller cross section into the combined ends.

Then the assembled structure, as shown in the photo, must be fixed with self-tapping screws.

Now you know how to cover the ceiling with a metal frame, which means it's time to install a ceiling plinth, into which we will then wind PVC edges.

Fixing skirting around the perimeter of the room

If you work in a tiled room, before proceeding with the installation of the baseboard, you need to grout the tile joints. If this is not done in advance, then it will be very difficult to crawl under the installed plinth. But, if you apply the grout before the end of the installation work, by the end of the repair it will be dusty and dirty.

Installation is carried out using the following tools and materials:

• Screwdriver and self-tapping screws for metal;
• A miter box and a hacksaw for cutting the plinth at the right angle;
• segment knife;
• Liquid nails or baguette glue;
• 647 thinner or white spirit;
• Lint-free rag.

The instructions for installing the skirting board are as follows:

• With a lint-free cloth dipped in a solvent, we wipe the perimeter of the walls directly under the profile;

If you do not degrease the surface of the tile, the glue will stick, but not for long. Degreasing improves the adhesion of wall cladding and adhesive.

• We cut 4 pieces of plinth along the length of the walls so that their ends have an angle of 45 degrees, provided that the angle between the walls is straight;

It is advisable to use solid skirting boards, as the result will look better and be more reliable in operation. In addition, we will only glue the plinth on 3 walls - 2 long and 1 short. The opposite short wall can be sealed with a skirting board after the last panel is installed.

• We apply a line of glue on the plinth along the wide shelf;

By the way, so that the glue does not flow from the cylinder when it is not necessary, after applying the strip, do not forget to snap off the gun to relieve pressure.

• We apply the plinth with the adhesive side to the wall and press down along the entire length;

• Then tear off the glued bar and count 5 seconds;

• After that, we glue the bar in place and finally press it along the entire length to the wall and the profile of the crate;

Since the underside of the plinth and the tile are glossy, it is possible that the plastic strip will slide when glued. In order not to stand and hold the bar for half an hour or an hour until it dries completely, I recommend cutting an unnecessary piece of the panel into small fragments and, as shown in the photo, insert it into the baseboard and grab it to the crate with a self-tapping screw. After the glue has completely dried, the accessories will need to be removed.

Fasteners for plastic lining

To complete this step, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Screwdriver with a figured bat;
• Hacksaw and segment knife;
• Large square;
• Roulette;
• A pencil or marker that can be washed off;
• Self-tapping screws with a press washer.

The most difficult moment is the installation of the first and last board, so I recommend that you especially focus on these points.

Installation starts from the wall opposite the front door. This is done so that solid planks are visible, as they will be striking. At the same time, cut off - the last bar located above the entrance will be almost invisible.

Before sewing up the surface with panels, a few words about how to cut them. To begin with, we draw a strip along the square, which will be located at a right angle to the longitudinal edges of the lining. Further on the knife we ​​put forward one segment, and we make several continuous cuts along one line.

After that, the bar can be carefully broken and the edges of the cut can be corrected so that there is no bend.

How to finish the ceiling with plastic clapboard correctly?

• We measure the size of the planks and cut the first panel according to these dimensions;

How to take measurements correctly? We measure the distance from wall to wall, and subtract 2 cm from the resulting number, that is, 1 cm on each side. This is necessary so that the cut bar enters, as shown in the photo, and so that it does not have to be strongly bent.

• We insert the cut bar into the plinth against the wall with the end where the spike is located so that the side with the groove looks towards the open crate;

The groove in the baseboard is not perfectly even, so it may happen that the edge of the plank rests when you push it in. Do not make much effort and, moreover, do not knock on the back of the bar. Take a plastering spatula and, pushing it between the edge of the plank and the plinth, try to bend the “wave”. You will feel that the plank has entered properly when it rests with its entire edge against the edge of the groove on the plinth.

• After the first plank has risen evenly, we fasten it with self-tapping screws to the profile;

How to fix the bar with self-tapping screws? Someone is screwing a self-tapping screw directly into the edge of the pvc ceiling panel. I do not recommend doing this, it is better to screw it into the profile so that the plastic is pressed with a press washer.

• At the corners of the first plank, we screw the screws in such a way that they press not only the panel, but also the edge of the plinth;

• If the angle between the walls in the room is straight, we measure how many planks are required for the ceiling, and we make the required number of blanks in one size;
• If the angle between the walls is not straight, we take measurements for each panel separately;
• After the first panel is installed, we report the plastic panels to the ceiling in the same way up to the last plank;

When tightened with a self-tapping screw, the edge of the panel rises and a gap opens close to the plinth. What can be done so that there is no gap? You can lower the self-tapping screw, but in this way the strength of the entire structure will be limited. The best option is to slip small scraps of lining into the gap between the bar and the profile in the immediate vicinity of the self-tapping screw.

• We measure the last bar both in length and in width;

When we measure the remaining gap in width, subtract 1 cm from the resulting number in order to insert the panel with a spike into the groove and move it to the wall.

• We cut the bar according to the dimensions taken;

• We start the cut panel with a spike into the groove, pushing it from the cut edge with a spatula;

• From pieces of the plank we cut small liners, which we put into the gap between the edge of the lining and the wall;

• We mark the previously prepared fourth piece of the plinth under the spacers nested between the lining and the wall;
• According to the markings on the plinth, we make cutouts;

• Next, we cut the groove on the plinth, which includes the lining, so that it enters the recess between the ceiling sheathing and the wall;
• Now we apply glue to the side of the plinth that will fit in the wall and glue it into the gap;

• On this, the ceiling lining can be considered finished.

Conclusion

So, I talked in some detail about how to assemble a ceiling from plastic panels. I hope that the proposed instructions will be useful to you and you can apply them when arranging your home.

Probably, during the decoration of the premises you will have certain questions. Ask these questions in the comments to the text and I promise you will get comprehensive answers. In addition, I recommend watching the video in this article.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Plastic, as a finishing material for ceilings, is now becoming more widespread. When compared with other types of ceiling finishes, this method will cost more than materials and installation work used in other cases. However, the subsequent cost of the operation of the plastic ceiling covering itself will be much lower.

The concept of plastic ceilings includes specific types of ceiling coverings - Armstrong, Grilyato and others similar. For them, installation schemes, suspended structures assembled from the simplest load-bearing elements, plastic panels of various sizes and colors have been specially developed. There are a huge number of various instructions explaining the correctness and sequence of assembling such ceilings.

Plastic after installation does not require any additional processing of the front surface. With even very strong pollution with soot and soot from gas stoves in kitchens, plastic easily restores its original decorative qualities and colors. This is ensured by simple washing with plain water and soapy water.

PVC plastic is hygienic, under normal conditions does not emit any chemical fumes harmful to humans, is resistant to biological contaminants in the form of rot, mold and fungus. Its destruction begins to occur at a temperature not lower than 120 degrees Celsius.

The use of plastic for finishing ceilings

Until recently, deep-embossed square or rectangular panels made of expanded polystyrene foam (often used for packaging household appliances) were used to ennoble ceilings.

The porous surface of these panels had a low resistance to contamination in the form of dust, cobwebs, grease and soot, well absorbed and emitted such unpleasant odors as tobacco smoke into the surrounding space. Washing such a lining did not give any effect, and the front surface was covered with dirty stains that could not be removed. The only way to deal with these troubles was to completely replace the ceiling covering.

Therefore, most often rectangular plastic PVC panels with dimensions of 0.25 x 3 m and a thickness of 7.5 ... 8.0 mm are used for ceiling systems. These panels, obtained by extrusion, consist of two flat plates interconnected by longitudinal stiffeners, the distance between which does not exceed 1 cm.

The longitudinal sides of the panels are equipped with locks in the form of grooves and spikes. They also have a special protruding flap for attaching to the surface to be lined. When installed, they create a force that attracts adjacent panels, as a result, the seams between them become invisible.

Seams are especially well masked on panels with a glossy work surface, as well as periodic patterns or ornaments applied to them. The seams between the panels will become even more invisible when they are installed perpendicular to the wall in which the window openings are located.

The location of the seams along the view, looking at the ceiling, visually make the room longer, across - wider.

In some cases, the seams are specially made visible, and they serve as one of the elements of a specially conceived decor. PVC plastic panels with visible seams are called eurolining.

Sometimes, for plastic cladding, solid PVC sheets up to 5 mm thick with a variety of colors or printed patterns are used. These sheets, resembling very hard linoleum, can be rectangular or square.

The seams between such sheets are usually closed with decorative PVC or foam plastic overlays glued on top of them, imitating the wooden elements of the rafters or trusses of the roofing system.

PVC ceiling panels, unlike wall panels, have a smaller thickness, weight and strength.

The price of ceiling panels can be significantly lower than wall panels. Very rarely, plastic PVC panels are installed with glue. To choose this method, you need a smoothly leveled surface of the base, cleared of chalk and other colors. The adhesive mastic must provide reliable adhesion between the surfaces to be glued.

When the ceiling is made of wood, plastic panels can be installed directly on it without the use of frames and guide rails using nails, screws or construction stapler staples. The horizontal level of such a coating is provided using wooden or cardboard wedges and linings.

Plastic panels can be combined in color, pattern, combined with other types of ceiling finishes - plasterboard, decorative plaster, stretch fabric. PVC plastic can be used in the most daring vintage design projects in the design of living and working spaces. Increasingly, multi-level ceiling systems of a stepped design are used with elements of a straight or complex curvilinear shape with an arrangement of lamps of the original form.

Plastic panels well hide defective places and irregularities of wooden and concrete floors, various engineering communications. These can be losses and delaminations of the old plaster coating, ledges between the lower surfaces of adjacent reinforced concrete slabs.

Engineering communications may consist of pipes for hot and cold water supply, heating and sewerage. Even higher than the plastic panels, wired electrical wiring, telephone, Internet, antenna television cables can be mounted.

Access to them for servicing is easy.

This will most often require the dismantling of one or more plastic panels, the subsequent replacement of which seems to be a fairly simple matter.

Lighting of premises with ceilings made of plastic panels can be performed using built-in spotlights or in other ways agreed with the customer or the owner of the premises. Sometimes, at a suitable room height, equipment for ventilation and air cooling is installed above the plastic level.

The price of cladding ceilings with plastic panels is comparable to the price of plasterboard cladding. At the same time, plastic does not require puttying, grinding, wallpapering or painting after installation.

Facing

• direct fixing of panels on the ceiling;
• the use of intermediate guide rails, previously set, leveled and connected to the ceiling;
• pre-assembly of frames from wood or metal parts and leveling them horizontally using the floor level is the best way, suitable for any ceiling.

Wooden frames are made of slats with dimensions of 50 x 20 mm. They are interconnected by corners bent from tin, or wooden short pieces with screws. Metal frames are most easily assembled from inventory bent tin galvanized profiles used for plasterboard sheathing.

The flat frame structure is pre-assembled with alignment on the floor, then, after hanging, it is fixed in a horizontal plane using a water or bubble building level. The frame is attached to the ceiling with nails or self-tapping screws.

Advice

When hanging and leveling, it is better to use tin galvanized perforated strips, bent in the desired configuration.

Panels are attached to the frame in a standard way.

Additional attention should be paid to the design of transverse seams between panels, right and reverse corners at the junctions with walls, door and window openings. For this, elements called moldings are produced.

For the manufacture of frame rails, you need to take well-dried coniferous wood - pine, larch. This will make it possible to avoid warping, distortions of the ceiling surface during its operation. Before installing a wooden frame, its elements must be protected with antiseptics from decay and flame retardants from fire. There are special deep penetration impregnations that combine these two most important protections for wood.

The voids formed between the panels, ceiling and frame elements are sometimes filled with mineral wool mats or foam sheets. This increases the sound impermeability and heat-shielding properties of the premises.

Self installation

Do-it-yourself plastic ceiling installation is within the power of a performer who does not have any experience in performing such work. Self-facing with plastic floors of any type does not require a specially purchased tool. Screwdrivers, drills, hacksaws, hammers, levels and plumb lines are always at hand for any home craftsman. All materials traditionally used for this purpose are easily processed to fit the required dimensions.

1. To install plastic, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, study the recommended order of operations.
2. Next, you need to prepare materials and bring your tool into working condition.
3. In order to minimize overspending, to limit residues in the form of scraps, a preliminary calculation of the required amount of materials is performed. This is done using concepts from the school geometry course. These include - width, length, height, methods for measuring the areas of flat figures, their addition and subtraction, the Pythagorean theorem of sines (cosines).
4. Further, only accurate calculation and accuracy will be required from the performer of work on cladding and finishing ceilings with plastic.

Advice

Do not forget about the use of protective equipment - glasses, respirators, overalls. To protect your head from falling objects from above, you will need a standard construction helmet. And in general, when finishing the ceiling with plastic, it is impossible not to take into account safety requirements, fire prevention measures.

Reliable ladders and scaffolds must be in demand. At the time of work, it is recommended to invite an assistant who, in addition to providing services in auxiliary work, will be able, if necessary, to provide first aid during accidental mechanical injuries or electric shock.

Application and operation

Plastic ceiling coverings can be used in residential and public buildings. Since the purposes of such rooms usually differ, plastic ceilings in them may have their own characteristics. Let's look at these features in more detail. The aesthetic qualities of ceilings can be maintained in proper condition for decades, it all depends on their care and regular maintenance.

Plastic ceiling in the kitchen

Advice

Shine can be restored by wiping the surface with a weak (1 ... 3%) solution of ammonia or ammonia. The very process of cleaning from dirt can be organized using an ordinary mop with a rag or using a washing vacuum cleaner.

In bathroom

The use of plastic in the installation of the ceiling in the bathroom is one of the most progressive ways of finishing. The bathroom is designed to receive water procedures, and, therefore, is characterized by high humidity. The PVC plastic panels themselves are very resistant to splash water or high humidity.

Elements of wooden frames must be additionally protected with waterproof paint coatings based on polymer resins - acrylic, epoxy, polyurethane.

Metal frames are best used with galvanized sheet parts. For better protection against corrosion, coatings based on red lead or chromium oxide diluted in natural drying oil can be used. Good results are obtained by coating with bituminous or coal tar varnish. Slots, gaps at the junctions with walls and utilities are best insulated with polyurethane mounting foam or silicone mastic.

Installation, connection, insulation of electrical lighting devices must be performed by an electrician with certification. It is better to take out all switches, sockets from the wine room. These steps will help to avoid electric shock during operation.

In the corridor

The ceilings in the corridors, as well as the hallways, are also often finished with plastic panels. Instead of one lamp in the form of a chandelier, sconce or ceiling lamp, several built-in spotlights are used. The device of the remote control for individual connection will allow you to allocate separate zones or spaces in the room.

If built-in wardrobes or mezzanines are located in walk-through rooms, it is also very convenient to finish their internal surfaces with hygienic PVC panels.

In the toilet room

There is nothing better than plastic for finishing the ceilings of isolated toilet rooms. PVC panels do not absorb and do not retain any odors for a long time, unlike plaster, drywall, fabric. Plastic well hides a variety of ceiling connections for engineering and other communications, as well as systems for the normal operation of the building.

In houses built in the 30s ... 50s of the last century, you can still find toilet bowls with a vertical drain. At the same time, the outlet pipe emerges from the ceiling of the toilet room on the lower floor and cuts at a right angle into the sewer riser located here. Alteration of this design requires the replacement of toilet bowls, sewer risers and reinforcement of interfloor ceilings. If this is not possible, such a design can be hidden behind a suspended plastic ceiling.

Ceilings in bedrooms with a height of 2.20 ... 2.50 m can be made of ordinary three-meter plastic panels on wooden or metal frames. As design solutions, you can alternate the order of colors and patterns of adjacent panels. They can be installed both in tone with the pattern of adjacent sheets, and in the opposite contrasting version.

Advice

When experimenting with color schemes and patterns of panels, their sharp combinations, which cause overexcitation and insomnia, should be avoided. This is especially true for bedrooms and children's rooms. It is better to use soothing, so-called pastel colors, which allow you to induce a deep relaxing sleep.

Like other finishing building materials, plastic, including in the form of PVC panels, for ceilings has its own advantages and disadvantages.