Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation: diagram and work process. Cellar ventilation: working diagrams and professional advice Pipes for basement ventilation plastic

1. It’s dark inside - there are no windows, the light comes from a light bulb and only when you need to take something.
2. Low temperature is mandatory for long-term storage of things and products, otherwise “the love has passed, the tomatoes have wilted.” Literally.
3. Constant air circulation, influx of fresh air and removal of stale air.
4. Humidity is about 90% - not too much and not too little. Enough to maintain freshness without rotting or drying out.

If the building does not meet the listed requirements, you should think about the need high-quality ventilation. To create such an air cycle, 2 types of ventilation are used - passive and mechanical.

For small rooms

When laying the foundation, vents are left in the basement above the cellar. They are covered with iron bars to prevent pets, pests and debris (leaves, branches, waste paper) from getting inside. When frost begins, thick insulating fabric is placed over the grille and pressed down with an iron sheet. With proper design, the cellar will maintain the temperature acceptable for storing food even in winter.


This is the simplest method of arrangement, but it does not provide sufficiently good ventilation, and precipitation (snow, rain) will in any case fall into the vents and accumulate.

If it is not possible to make two separate vents, you can split one in half. The first part with the wind catcher guides Fresh air into the room, the second is slightly covered from parallel blowing and will serve as an exhaust hood.

Passive (natural) ventilation

Cellars large sizes It will no longer be possible to provide high-quality ventilation with niches alone - air circulation is necessary here. But you can do it quite quickly without high costs make ventilation in the cellar with your own hands, and a full blowing system will allow you to store any things in the future without the risk of damage.

A significant disadvantage of natural ventilation is its dependence on weather conditions. In the complete absence of wind, the air flow is extremely weak, therefore it can be considered an intermediate solution and a “framework” for the mechanical one.

First you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes, calculate the volume of the chamber and required amount air for normal circulation, after which a cellar ventilation scheme is drawn up. The formula is quite simple: 1 cm of pipe diameter is 13 sq. cm. sections. For 1 sq.m of cellar you need 26 sq.cm of section. That is, with a cellar of 10 sq.m. the diameter is calculated as follows: 10 sq.m (area) * 26 (required cross-section per meter): 13 (section per 1 cm of diameter).


Simply put, the area is multiplied by 2 - the diameter of the pipe is obtained. If the air duct rectangular shape– we take the calculation of 1 sq.m. room area = 26 sq. cm. duct area (in this case, area 230 sq.cm = duct size 10x23 cm). Ventilation of a cellar in a garage is done according to the same principle, but taking into account the design features - it cannot always be removed directly.

Since the garage is used mainly for storing products that are more resistant to temperature and moisture, there is less dependence on ventilation, but the car still needs air circulation to prevent condensation from accumulating.

After this, the required length is measured, and installation work can begin.

Installation of exhaust and supply

The air duct is led through the ceiling in the corner of the cellar to the roof, always above the level of the building - otherwise the draft will be unstable and depend on the direction of the wind. A damper is attached at the bottom for adjustment, and a mesh (from birds and debris) and a “fungus” from rain are placed on top. You cannot place it end to end, otherwise air will not flow freely, but a “mushroom” that is too high is useless by default, since rain and snow rarely fall vertically, and the wind will blow them into the pipe. If there is already a ceiling above the cellar ( concrete wall, slabs, bricks) - instead of one large passage, you can make several smaller ones, but equal in total area/diameter. Proper ventilation cellars in winter will preserve food from icing and completely allow for “division” of pipes.

The inflow is located diametrically to the hood - in the opposite corner at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the floor. The size of the supply channel can be made slightly larger than the hood for reliability and better air supply. Similar to a hood, it is installed on the roof and is also equipped with a mesh and rain protection. It is important that the supply pipe is at least 0.5 m below the hood, otherwise the system will close and air will not flow due to the same pressure in both channels.

After installation, it is necessary to check the traction.

No sensors - just hold a burning lighter to the exhaust vent for 5-10 seconds. If the flame burns evenly and is “pulled” into the channel, everything is in order. If it goes out, it means that air is not coming in or coming out. In this case, the flame is applied to each channel in turn for testing. Near the inflow, it should tremble from the wind flow; if it burns perfectly evenly, the pipe is either clogged or incorrectly installed. Change the height, increase the diameter - this should solve the problem.

Forced (mechanical) ventilation

Unlike passive mechanical ventilation the basement in a private house does not depend on the weather, wind strength/direction and other details. Moreover, the already existing passive ventilation will serve as the basis for creating forced circulation. Actually, the basic principles of the design are no different - both pipes are located diametrically, both lead to the top, both are protected from debris and precipitation. Forced ventilation is equipped in two ways.

• Using fans

An electric fan is mounted on the hood, blowing air out of the room. As a result, a small vacuum is formed inside, which itself will draw in outside air. An alternative is an inlet fan for better air pumping, but the load on it will be slightly increased if the hood is not wide enough. Ideally, you should install speed-controlled fans on both channels and set them to the same speed.


Since the humidity in basements is higher than under normal conditions, it is better to use low-voltage fans and additionally insulate the wires and contacts and first consult with professionals on how to make ventilation in the basement with your own hands.

• Non-mechanical

An alternative is deflectors. They are placed on the hood instead of a hood and rarefy the air in the pipe, creating increased draft. Another option is turbines. The force of the wind rotates the shaft, it transfers force to the fan, which improves the outflow of air. Both options do not require electricity, but when installing them, you need to adjust the draft.


There is only one downside to deflectors and turbines - they are also dependent on the wind and in its absence will not bring much benefit. It is better to strengthen the exhaust fan with a fan in such cases.

A DIY video of cellar ventilation will help you better understand all the details - visual perception is much more effective than any text.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

It does not matter which method of implementation of the corresponding project is chosen. In any case, knowledge of how to make a hood in the cellar will be useful. They will help you choose the right materials and technologies, eliminate errors when independent execution work operations. If you plan to hire third-party performers, it will be easier to control their actions.

To accurately select the appropriate system components, you need to study the ventilation

In any project, at the first stage, the task should be precisely formulated. To do this, consider the following considerations:

• The flow of fresh air will remove from the room unpleasant odors, harmful chemical compounds and microorganisms.
• It is used to remove excess moisture and maintain a certain temperature.
• So external weather change, it will be useful to adjust the intensity of the system.

It must be taken into account that the hood in the garage cellar will differ from a similar structure installed separately on the site, or in the basement of a residential building. Thus, when studying this issue, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular property.

How to make a hood in the cellar using different technologies

All possible combinations are acceptable. But all ventilation systems can be divided into two main groups. The first one involves air movement naturally. When creating the second one use mechanical means. The advantages and disadvantages of these options will be discussed next.

Organization of natural ventilation of a cellar with two pipes

This system operates due to the pressure difference when installing the inlet and outlet ports on different levels.

The picture shows the main limitations that should be taken into account when installing such a system. Below are recommendations that will be useful in practice:

• If the supply pipe is installed near the ground, it is covered metal mesh from the penetration of rodents. When installed on the roof, they are covered with a canopy to prevent the ingress of precipitation.
• A distance of 20 to 50 cm is left between the bottom end and the floor. This will be enough for the free passage of air.
• The entrance of the exhaust part is installed as high as possible to the ceiling. To remove condensation without complications, they attach it to special device with a valve at the bottom. If there is a sewer pipe nearby, make a permanent connection to the drainage system.

Note! To reduce the intensity of condensation formation, insulation of the outlet air duct is installed throughout the entire duct.

The main advantage of this system is its autonomy and the complete absence of energy consumption. Flaws:

• limited performance;
• dependence on weather conditions;
• difficulty or impossibility of adjustments.

The last “minus” is partially eliminated with the use of special dampers, which change the width of the working openings of the air ducts.

Compulsory system

The principle of this approach is clear from the name. Fans are used to move air through the channels. They can be turned on and off as follows:

• From one or more temperature (humidity) sensors in the room.
• Using a timer that is set at the desired time intervals.
• From a local or remote control panel.

The relative position of the pipes and other parameters will be suitable from the previous version. But the actual composition of a forced air system can be much more complex. It includes the following components:

To find out exactly how to make a hood in the cellar, you need to know the features. In some situations it is advantageous to combine systems into a single whole with common elements control and management.

How to properly make ventilation in the cellar with your own hands

By to the following algorithm You can implement this project yourself:

• Create a plan. It is not necessary to apply strict engineering standards. But it will be useful to have a drawing with the location and dimensions individual parts, list of components.

• The room needs to be prepared. Eliminate insulation defects. At buried foundation provide reliable protection from groundwater. Insulate external walls, ceiling and floor, roof.

• Pipes are installed in accordance with the plan. Condensate drain taps, damper handles and other devices with manual drives placed in places convenient for subsequent maintenance.

Upon completion of the work, check the tightness of the joints where the air duct channels pass through building construction, check the functionality of automation and control tools.

If there is no other possibility, install cellar ventilation with one pipe. The influx is ensured through existing or specially created cracks, by opening doors and windows. Sometimes a structure is installed from two pipes inserted into one another. The central hole and the space between the walls are used for air supply/removal.

Related article:

Selection of components and assemblies

If you have figured out how to make a hood in the cellar, pay attention to the following nuances before the purchase individual components systems:

• Metal ventilation pipes must be well protected from corrosion. Polymer analogues are not subject to destructive oxidation processes. To create natural ventilation, the diameter of the channels must be at least 120-130 mm for rooms with an area of ​​8-10 square meters.
• It is better to purchase a complex deflector in a factory version. Some simple models You can try to do it yourself.

• For installation in such a system, only special fans designed for the appropriate conditions of use are suitable.

Increasing the efficiency of the ventilation system and general conclusions

The following tips will help you implement your project with minimal costs and reduce costs during operation:

• In order not to make significant changes to the design, the installation of such systems must be combined with general construction work.

Acquisition different materials in one store will help you get additional discounts

• Even a very efficient ventilation system will not be able to perform its functions if there are sources of dampness in the room. Moisture penetration should be prevented by installing good waterproofing.
• In order to increase efficiency, it will be useful to create high-quality thermal insulation.

A cellar is a basement or free-standing structure for storing crops, canning, and other products. How long it will preserve food and vegetables depends largely on the quality of the ventilation system organized inside. Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation is simple in design and principle of operation, but it is very important and should be designed at the stage of its laying. If a ventilation system was not provided, it can be organized after the construction of the structure.

Why is there ventilation in the cellar?

Features of the structure for storing crops:

• a certain temperature regime that allows the crop to be stored in warm and cold seasons due to its construction below ground level;
• lack of natural light;
• constant circulation of fresh air is necessary;
• Humidity level averages 90%.

These parameters are maintained within normal limits by equipping the storage facility with an appropriate ventilation system. If ventilation is ineffective:

• the harvest is not stored for a long time (rot, mold will appear, or the vegetables will be overdried);
• Condensation constantly collects on the walls, which significantly increases the humidity level;
• the air stagnates, which is harmful to human health;
• due to condensation in winter, the walls become covered with frost, the temperature is below normal (+1⁰ – +4⁰ C), the structure freezes.

The principle of natural air exchange in the cellar

The operating principle of air flow circulation inside the storage facility is quite simple. Based on the temperature difference between the incoming and outgoing air flow. The lower the inlet temperature, the greater the force that lifts the warm air mass upward, where it is discharged through the exhaust duct. This is the principle of natural supply exhaust system ventilation, which can be equipped on our own With minimal investment financial resources.

Depending on the design features burial structure may be subject to forced forced ventilation and exhaust.

Cellar ventilation diagram

The storage ventilation system consists of air exchange between two ventilation ducts. The air flow from outside is forced into the supply pipe and enters the building. The waste material rises up through the exhaust pipe and is discharged outside.

The ventilation of a cellar with two pipes is almost independent of external factors location, climatic features. Circulation air flow ov is naturally regulated primarily correct location ventilation ducts.

Air ducts are located in opposite corners of the structure at different levels. The supply air supply is placed 200-300 mm above the storage floor level, the exhaust air supply is mounted under the ceiling, no lower than 150-200 mm from it. They are taken outside the structure, the supply air is about 300 mm above the ground or roof level, the exhaust - to a height of at least 1.5-2 m.

Be sure to calculate the required cross-sectional diameter of the channels, using a simplified diagram:

• for 1 m² of room, 26 cm² of pipe area is determined;
• For 1 cm of pipe diameter you need 13 cm² of section.

The upper outlet of the supply air duct must be covered with a grille to protect it from debris and the penetration of rodents and other small animals.

When the ventilation ducts are placed strictly vertically, metal umbrellas or a deflector should be installed on their heads to prevent precipitation from getting inside.

Ventilation device in the cellar. Peculiarities

1. Ventilation can be most effectively organized during laying, leaving holes in the walls for subsequent connection of the air duct.
2. Ventilation ducts must have the same diameter for uniform distribution of air flows. To remove exhaust air more quickly, the exhaust pipe can be installed with a larger diameter. In no case is it the other way around: the air will stagnate in the storage.
3. To ensure a large pressure drop, the hood is placed at least 1.5 m above the roof of the cellar/embankment.
4. The exhaust duct opening is mounted under the ceiling so that warm, stagnant air is completely replaced by fresh air.
5. Ventilation ducts are installed in opposite corners. This way, the incoming air flow can pass through the entire room before exiting through the hood.
6. The most effective design is direct ventilation tube. It is recommended to avoid its bends for better ventilation of the room.
7. Air ducts must be of the same cross-section along their entire length.
8. Dosing air flow circulation, maintaining optimal temperature regime in the storage is provided with the help of dampers, which is important in the cold season.
9. Using a deflector increases the traction force in the hood.

Materials

The most commonly used ventilation ducts are polyethylene or asbestos cement. Both of these materials are durable, long service life, and resistant to weather conditions.

Plastic pipes are easy to install, and ventilation with them will be simple. The main thing is to connect them well.

Metal surfaces will be constantly exposed to moisture and corrode. Therefore, the use of metal ventilation ducts is undesirable; they will not last long. It is possible to use stainless steel pipes.

Asbestos air ducts are best suited for industrial premises.

Ventilation in the cellar on your own is possible using pipes and other materials. They must meet the characteristics of the structure and withstand exposure to moisture, precipitation, and other external factors.

Forced ventilation of the cellar

Due to the design features of the burial structure, natural ventilation may not be enough for complete air exchange (lack of wind in hot weather, several storage rooms, large area). How to make ventilation in the cellar effective with your own hands?

In this case it is recommended to use optional equipment(fans) to increase the flow of fresh air and remove exhaust air outside the storage facility. Such supply and exhaust exhaust ventilation is forced.

Fans on the exhaust duct help remove stale air outside faster. This creates a kind of vacuum, increasing the flow of fresh air.

You can also install a fan on the supply duct to increase air circulation inside the structure. It is necessary to install a reverse motion on the fan, in which the blades will move in the opposite direction.

Optional equipment

Auxiliary equipment are

1. Fans:

• axial (mounted at the entrance ventilation duct);
• duct (built into the middle of the ventilation pipe);
• “snail fans” (more difficult to install).

What you need to pay attention to before purchasing additional supply/exhaust equipment:

• does the fan performance correspond to the volume of the cellar;
• resistance to high humidity;
• equipment exhaust fan check valve to prevent cold flow from entering the cellar;
• complete with plastic plugs.

Cellar air exchange in winter

The winter period is no exception for ventilation of the cellar space. To prevent the room from cooling below an acceptable level, the supply flow and discharge should be regulated using dampers installed inside the ventilation ducts. The lower the temperature outside, the stronger the draft.

With the coming severe frosts The dampers must be completely closed. The rest of the time, regulate the inflow and outflow in accordance with atmospheric temperature indicators. If necessary, the cellar should be heated heating devices to maintain a temperature of +2 - +4⁰ C. This will prevent freezing of the stored crop.

It should also be remembered that extreme cold will certainly provoke the appearance of frost inside the outlet pipe, which will impede the passage of air flow to the outside. It is recommended to clean the air ducts as frost accumulates inside.

To prevent freezing of the outlet channel, it is recommended to insulate it with thermal insulation material. Freezing will be almost completely eliminated. But condensation may accumulate. The problem can be solved by installing a drainage container, which will need to be periodically emptied of liquid.

If it is not possible to constantly monitor the removal of frost from the hood, drainage capacity, the best option there will be forced exhaust ventilation built into the ventilation duct. It will help remove excess moisture along with the exhaust air flow, which will eliminate the accumulation of condensate inside the insulated ventilation duct.

Excessive dampness

Enhanced ventilation helps quickly dry damp rooms. It is carried out in the summer and autumn before the harvest. All drawers and boxes for storing vegetables are taken outside. It is advisable to dry them in direct sunlight to obtain a bactericidal effect.

There are several ways to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar:

• Use a hygroscopic substance. Place the boxes with it inside the structure for several days. Different fillers can be used, for example, coarse salt, quicklime, sand, etc. The substance absorbs intensely excess moisture from the air, thereby drying out the storage space.
• Still simple, effective method- use of a candle. Installed as close to the hood as possible, pre-fixed for stability and placed in a metal stand. The heat of the flame increases the draft inside the hood, thereby improving overall air exchange. Drying the space occurs much faster. It takes several days, the burnt out candles are periodically replaced with new ones.
  The same function can be performed by an alcohol lamp using liquid or dry fuel.
• You can also install for a few days household fan. He's at open doors, hatches enhance the natural circulation of air flow, which helps remove accumulated dampness to the outside.
• An expensive, energy-consuming method is the use of electric heaters. It will take a long time to dry, during which the heater will consume a lot of electricity. Placed in the center for uniform heating of the entire space. A heat generator is a more efficient electrical heating device. It warms up the space faster, which saves time and, accordingly, energy costs. Hot air increases draft, air exchange is more efficient.
• Install a potbelly stove inside the storage facility. Connect the chimney to the exhaust pipe. If there is no hood, there is no point in installing a stove, because it will smoke and will not bring the desired effect. By warming up the air, the change in flow improves, which inevitably leads to drying out the surfaces of the vegetable storage.
• Build a roasting pan from a metal container, such as an old bucket. Holes are drilled at the bottom to improve draft and combustion process. Firewood (preferably birch) is placed inside. When burned, they give off heat to the room. This increases the ventilation of the structure.

From a technical point of view, installing a ventilation system inside a cellar with your own hands is not difficult if you have basic skills and a minimum set of tools and components. It is designed and installed at the stage of laying out the storage facility. Justifies itself in the first weeks of work, preserving and maintaining optimal microclimate indoors.

Friends! More interesting materials:

Oh! There are no materials yet(((. Browse the site again!

Every homeowner's dream is a clean, dry basement underneath their home. In a cellar used for storing vegetables with personal plot, a special microclimate must be maintained, characterized by low humidity and low positive temperature (1-2°C). To do this, even at the design stage of the house, a cellar ventilation scheme must be developed and included in the project. But often, in practice, everything looks sadder.

The miscalculation of the designer or the negligence of the builders lead to dismal results. Musty air, dampness, mold, mildew on the walls and shelves of the basement. And, as a result, spoiled harvest, rotting wooden elements structure and weakening of the strength of load-bearing elements. Fortunately, restoring or even re-creating the air exchange system - ventilation of the basement, although not simple, is feasible. Below we will look at examples of working ventilation schemes for basements located under a house, garage or barn.

The basis of ventilation is physical effect upward movement of warm air. IN classic scheme For air exchange, two vertical shafts are installed at opposite ends of the room. The exit from one is located above the floor, and the entrance to the second is located under the ceiling. These are the supply and exhaust pipes of the system. Cold air falls underground through the supply pipe under the influence of gravity. Warm air, on the contrary, tends to leave the room through the ventilation duct pipe located under the ceiling.

Types of ventilation systems

Natural two-pipe

This type of air exchange system is called two-pipe. And it seems the most appropriate for installation. When designing a basement ventilation system with two pipes, you need to start with the correct mathematical calculation of the flow sections of the ventilation air ducts. According to current standards, per square meter of room there must be at least 25 cm2 of the flow area of ​​the ventilation shaft. Knowing this ratio, it is easy to calculate the required diameter. The table below shows the calculation values ​​for typical basements.

Cross section values ​​for small basements

Important! When designing an air exchange system for a basement or cellar, it is necessary to use pipes with a cross-section larger than the calculated one by 10 - 15%. And provide valves or flaps in the channels. This will provide a reserve of system power and allow you to regulate its performance.

Also, when developing a project, the following aspects should be taken into account:

• pipes or air duct shafts should have as few corners, bends and elbows as possible. The ideal shaft is a straight vertical pipe.
• the exhaust pipe in its upper part must be insulated to avoid condensation.
• also, the exhaust pipe should be 25-30 cm higher than the roof ridge and have a cap at the top to prevent precipitation from getting inside.
• the supply pipe is usually led through the foundation and is located just above ground level.
• the inlet of the supply pipe must be covered with a fine metal mesh or grate. To prevent rodents, birds and other small animals from entering the basement.
• The supply and exhaust pipes must be of the same diameter, and the performance of the system is regulated by dampers.

Natural single pipe

A single-pipe system is less productive, since in this case the air duct shaft is made of two channels, and it is difficult to separate the incoming and outgoing air flow. But, despite the low efficiency, such systems are still used in cellars with one pipe in cases where it is too expensive to connect two pipes to different ends of the room. See photo below.

For a basement in a garage or in a private house it is enough conventional system cellar ventilation with natural circulation, but for large premises this is no longer enough.

Forced ventilation system

For a basement in a garage or in a small private house, a conventional cellar ventilation system with natural circulation is sufficient, but for large rooms this is no longer enough. Therefore, indoors large area, or in which for some reason the installation of natural ventilation is difficult, forced ventilation is used. The air movement in it is provided by electric fans. There are several types of forced ventilation:

• exhaust;
• supply;
• supply and exhaust systems;

The type of system is determined by where the fan is installed. And it is selected based on local conditions.

It should be noted that for a large basement vegetable storage good decision forced exhaust ventilation with natural inflow will be used.

The advantage of such systems is good performance, regardless of the number of bends and turns of the air line, as well as the ability to include additional devices in the system - such as air filtration and purification systems, electric heating, automatic on/off based on temperature or gas levels. It is better to entrust the design and installation of such systems to specialists, which will undoubtedly pay off in the future.

Professional calculation and installation of air exchange systems

Despite the apparent simplicity of the underground space ventilation system, it can be difficult for a non-specialist to correctly calculate the ventilation, much less install such a system with their own hands. Because during the installation process, unexpected situations usually arise, and it can be difficult for a person without experience in such work to cope with them. Especially when it comes to drilling monolithic foundation or laying air ducts through the ceilings of the first and second floors. In such cases, it is better to entrust the work to specialists who will quickly and with a guarantee carry out everything. necessary work from design to installation. And they will save the owner from this headache, who will only have to accept the work and enjoy the wonderful microclimate that has formed in his basement.

To ensure that errors in design and installation are avoided engineering systems, you can order ventilation projects for public and private buildings and premises from the Mega.ru company. You can contact us by going to the page.

Peter Kravets

Reading time: 4 minutes

A A

In private houses, basements are often used as cellars directly at the base of the house or under an outbuilding.

As a rule, fresh and processed products are stored there, creating an optimal microclimate for them. One of the main structural elements air exchange is the arrangement of an exhaust element.

It can be either natural or forced. Proper installation of an exhaust system in the cellar provides protection from condensation on the surfaces of the vegetable storage, which protects the crop from putrefactive processes.

Exhaust hood installation in the basement of a private house

There are several possible types of arrangement of proper air circulation in the basement of a house. Air flows can move naturally, or they can be forced.

Moreover, you can additionally equip ventilation with units that increase its efficiency.

As a rule, any ventilation system There are two pipes for the basement. The air leaves the room through the hood; it is installed in the corner of the basement under the ceiling, and taken out half a meter.

Condensation may form on surfaces inside due to temperature differences, so it is necessary to ensure additional insulation mineral wool or other thermal insulation materials.

Fresh air enters the supply room, updating the basement from the opposite corner. The hole itself is mounted at a distance of 40*60 cm from the floor, and its end should be noticeably raised above ground level.

IN ventilation scheme Other equipment is also used - dampers, deflectors, fans, special climate systems.

Natural ventilation

Most in a simple way to make the microclimate in the basement optimal is the arrangement natural ventilation. Using this type of air exchange, the owner receives a number of advantages:

• Inexpensive cost of the design, since expenses are made only on the materials of the elements, of which there are very few;
• The possibility of arranging such a system not only during construction, but also after, during operation;
• Simplicity and ease installation work, as well as the speed of their implementation.

The disadvantage of such a system is the lack of temperature control; moreover, provided that the temperature outside is approximately equal to the inside temperature, circulation will not occur due to the lack of a difference.

Installation of a natural ventilation system

To circulate air naturally inside the room, two pipes are needed. You can use many materials, but most often PVC is used as an inexpensive, lightweight and durable material.

Of course, you can use metal, plastic or reinforced concrete. The cross section is selected based on the area of ​​the basement, 6-8 square meters usually 12*12 cm is enough.

If the hood in the cellar is made from one channel, then the cross-sectional size should be significantly larger. For example, with a basement of 6-8 sq.m. the size will be at least 15 cm.

With this arrangement of ventilation, 2 channels are made in one pipe at once - supply and exhaust, each equipped with its own damper that regulates air flows from the inside and outside.

There are several points to consider:

• The higher the exit of the exhaust duct to the surface is located, the more efficient air exchange inside;
• External terminals must be equipped with special canopies to protect against precipitation and small insects;
• The straighter the contour, the better the air flow; turns and bends greatly slow down movement;
• Both pipes must be chosen with the same cross-section so that there is no difference in the incoming and exhaust air.

Natural ventilation in small basements is the best option for arranging a cellar hood. But if the area is significant, how to make a hood in the basement?

At large areas good ventilation is impossible without forced ventilation air masses.

Forced ventilation

With a room area of ​​40 sq.m. or when arranging a living space it is necessary to do forced exhaust. This will ensure not only the renewal of the air space with fresh flows, but will also remove excess humidity and dampness, which are so common in underground rooms.

This becomes especially important when placing equipment or inventory made of materials susceptible to corrosive phenomena in underground spaces.

Among the advantages forced ventilation can be attributed:

• Independence from temperature indicators outside and inside;
• Adjustment and control of air intake and intensity of internal air exchange;
• It can also be filtered.

The disadvantages include the need for periodic maintenance of the system equipment, complicated installation and the increased cost of the equipment itself.

Through use technical means, it is necessary to carry out electrical cables inside, for which you will have to do wiring. If there is no electricity in the house, the system will not work.

Types of forced ventilation system arrangement

Among coercive systems There are several types of ventilation depending on the type of equipment and its various devices.

Electric fans, for example, are made in the exhaust pipe and provide a greater outflow of exhaust air. For large rooms, two fans are made, with the second one placed in the supply room to enhance the discharge.

These devices can operate in different modes, providing the ability to control air masses and basement temperatures. Mains power can be made from general power grid(cable from the basement to the house), or from a separate generator (if located under an outbuilding).

An alternative to electric fans are wind devices. To do this, a deflector is placed on the exhaust duct, which improves air injection due to a special discharged zone at the very entrance, transferring energy to the fans.

Deflector for basement ventilation

The essence of the deflector is that the air flow is dissected by the diffuser and creates increased draft in the pipe, circulating air masses. This allows you to significantly save on electricity and simultaneously increase the efficiency of the ventilation system.

There are many types of deflector devices:

1. ASTATO deflector, powered by wind or electric motor. There is a special sensor that turns off mechanical traction when there is sufficient wind force.
2. The deflector-weather vane, functioning only in wind, adapts to each wind direction. The downside is the presence of bearings, their regular lubrication and replacement.
3. Static deflector – model with an ejecting fan. It features quiet operation and effective removal of moisture from pipes.
4. Rotary turbine used in areas with constant strong wind.
5. A variety of H-shaped deflectors, spherical, Grigorovich deflectors.

Types of fans in forced ventilation

Proper air exchange in the basement is carried out using duct and axial fans.

Duct ones are characterized by average productivity and can be installed in any section of pipe. Economical, consumes little electricity.

Axial fans are mounted at the exhaust and supply outlets or inlets. They are more costly in energy consumption, but also guarantee powerful air flows. The kit always comes with a valve that protects the basement from cold air masses.

Basement microclimate control

There are two types of ventilation systems based on the type of room temperature control:

Automatic – completely autonomous and does not require human presence. The system is equipped with room temperature sensors, and the connection of fans is activated only when necessary.

There are also temperature sensors that monitor compliance with the set temperature. A special feature is the thermostats, which play the role of a person in starting the system.

Mechanical - requires startup by a person who independently monitors the temperature and humidity of the basement and manually adjusts the dampers and fans in the pipes.

Important! When choosing a ventilation system, you should adhere to temperature accuracy indicators. If deviations of 2 degrees are possible, then it is easier to arrange a mechanical system. Otherwise, only automatic control.

Materials for arranging a ventilation system

The basement ventilation scheme involves the use various types pipes The most commonly used is polyethylene low blood pressure or asbestos cement.

Asbestos cement resemble slate, they differ increased level strength and durability, as well as resistance to corrosion. They are made in large pieces, so the ventilation system is made from whole parts.

Polyethylene pipes will have to be welded, which requires both tools and special skills.

Metal is used quite rarely for ventilation, although it is cheap. This is due to susceptibility to corrosion, to protect against which pipes are buried in the ground with pre-treatment anti-corrosion protection and waterproofing materials.

Moreover, moisture collects more actively on metal, which is why metal is used in ventilation only in its forced type.

Regardless of the material, grates and caps are placed over the pipe openings to protect them from moisture and debris.

Hood in the cellar: system assembly and draft testing

As soon as the type of ventilation, system material, brand of fans, deflectors, dampers and other elements of the system are selected, you can begin assembling the hood:

• A hole is made in the ceiling of the storage facility for the ventilation duct;
• An exhaust duct is installed with a 15 cm extension to the surface;
• In the opposite corner, a hole is made in the wall 2 cm above the floor and no more than 5 cm in height;
• A supply pipe is installed, and from the outside the exit above the cellar is not made high, since there must be a pressure difference between both pipes;
• The outlet of the supply pipe to the street is covered with a grille or deflector;
• Dampers are installed inside the cellar through which the air intake will be controlled.

Having completed the arrangement of the system, check its traction. Of the methods for such verification, you can take the simplest one - a sheet of paper. If you bring it to the opening of the supply pipe, it begins to oscillate, which means there is draft. The same principle applies to a lit match - its smoke must be removed from the basement from the exhaust pipe.