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How to mount eurolining on walls horizontally. How to fix the lining - Master class

Wooden lining is beautiful and environmentally friendly. Ceilings and walls are trimmed in a similar way in baths, saunas, country houses and city apartments. U, and one of the most significant is the ease of installation, if, of course, high-quality materials were used, so you should find in advance a responsible supplier of fasteners for lining and, of course, the lining itself. Today, clamps, nails and even staples are used to fasten the material. What type of fasteners for lining will be most appropriate in each case?

No. 1. Features of installing lining

Lining is recommended to be mounted on pre-installed frame. If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is allowed to install the lining without building a frame, but the crate still helps to extend the life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer for laying in the space between the lining and the main surface.

The crate is fastened in increments of 50-60 cm, it is imperative to use a level to achieve a perfectly flat surface and compensate for the unevenness of the base ceiling or wall. The frame may be metal profile or timber. When it comes to wooden lining, it is better to stop the choice on a beam. It's all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. Lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal does not change in volume, and with a rigid fixation of the profile to the surface, the lining can lead. Of course, this risk remains when using a wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.

Heat-insulating material can be laid between the lathing bars, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for saunas.

You can mount the lining in one of the following ways:

The direction of the battens will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.

No. 2. Types of fasteners for lining

Traditional ways execute lining fasteners several:

Regardless of which type of fastening is chosen, it is recommended to mount the first and last board using nails with small heads - they are easy to drown in the lining body. They fasten the lining first to the middle bar, then to the two extreme ones, carefully controlling the verticality or horizontality. Then there is an attachment to the intermediate bars.

No. 3. Fastening lining with clamps

Kleimers allow you to install the lining, completely preserving its integrity. They represent metal plates with tongue and holes. The tongue is designed to hold the lining, and thanks to the holes, the kleimer is attached to the frame. Such simple, but at the same time ingenious, fasteners allow you to perform a hidden fixation of the lining - no fasteners will be visible from the outside. At the same time, the wood is protected from cracks that can appear when nails are driven into it, and the entire installation process is quite simple.

The main difference between all kleimers on the market is tongue height. The choice of this parameter depends on what type of lining will be mounted: for euro lining, the necessary brackets with a tongue 4 mm high, for block house lining - 6 mm. As for the material, the kleimers are made mainly of galvanized iron and steel. Consumption This fastener depends on many factors, but on average, about 20 kleimers are used per 1 m 2 of lining.

The sequence of work is as follows:

It is necessary to install the boards tightly to each other, leaving no visible gaps. The last board will likely need to be cut to fit the width. In baths and saunas, it is recommended to retreat 2-3 cm from the ceiling and floor so that the wood can easily expand.

Kleimers provide a detachable fastening, so in which case the lining can be easily dismantled and the coating can be assembled in a new place.

No. 4. Fastening lining with nails

With the help of fastening the lining is the easiest and fastest way, because there is no need to use any intermediate fasteners, but there is a risk of splitting the board, so you should be prepared for a certain amount of marriage. For fastening, nails 5-6 cm long are used, they are in increments of 25-30 cm, so a lot of fastening material will be needed.

Usually nails driven into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. To reduce the likelihood of damage to the lining, the nail is carefully placed in the right place with a hammer, and then hammered with a blunt hammer. An alternative is to pre-drill the holes. During installation, the nail head must be properly sunk into the tree so that the next element of the lining can be freely inserted into the groove.

It is allowed to drive a nail at a right angle into the tongue.

No. 5. Fastening the lining with a stapler

This is a variation on the theme of the previous method: instead of carnations and a finisher, a construction stapler is used here, which has enough power to drive the bracket into the lining. This device greatly facilitates the work, but requires some skill, so it's better to practice first. If everything is done correctly, then the bracket will fit tightly into the wood, without interfering with the installation of the next lining element. The stapler can also be used when fastening with clamps.

No. 6. Through fastening of lining with self-tapping screws

Through fastening is usually used for mounting the last lining boards. In this way, lining is also fastened in steam rooms and saunas. In this case, the fastener does not enter the spike, but passes through the entire lining. This is a fairly reliable and durable installation method, but if we are talking about using it in a bath, then the wood must be covered and do not forget to renew it every three months.

Holes are made in the boards first, and then fasteners are screwed in with the help, which should go as deep as possible. To cover the resulting hole, wooden pins are used, however, over time, all attachment points can become noticeable, no matter how carefully and regularly protective agents are applied.

This method has one interesting variation. Some experts drive nails into the crate, but not to the full length, so that they can be planted on them in the future. The length of the protruding elements should be less than the thickness of the lining. Nail heads are bitten off, and lining panels are carefully stuffed onto protruding nails with a mallet. The result is an aesthetic surface.

Over the years of working with lining, experts have accumulated decent experience and are ready to share advice:

The process of fastening the lining cannot be called too difficult, but it still requires accuracy, attentiveness and certain skills, so if you are not completely confident in your abilities, it is better to immediately call professionals for help and not spoil the material.

The direction of the sheathing of internal surfaces - horizontally or vertically - matters only for wooden lining, since it largely determines its subsequent durability. Much less important is this for plastic lining. Other methods ("herringbone", diagonal) are not considered further, if only because they dramatically increase the complexity of the work and increase the consumption of material. In return, you can only get the originality of the final appearance of the surface. In this regard, it is appropriate to recall that of all types of finishing materials, lining (and especially from precious wood) is considered the most expensive.

Lining looks advantageous with any method of laying

Influence of laying direction on the ratio of the geometric dimensions of the room

Sometimes you want to change the proportions of the room, for example, make it higher/lower or shorter/longer. For large rooms, it is possible to install an additional interior partition. In other cases, the required visual effect can be achieved by nailing the boards in a certain sequence.

What are the ultimate possibilities for changing the direction of laying panels? It will be possible to “raise” the ceiling if we take the vertical direction of installation of the panels, and to make the room lower - if we lay the lining horizontally. It is important to adhere to the chosen laying direction around the entire perimeter of the room, since its arbitrary change (for example, one of the walls is sheathed vertically and the other horizontally) does not produce an aesthetically integral impression, although it can sometimes be justified by purely pragmatic considerations. For example, an abundance of openings, when vertical laying is associated with less material consumption than horizontal.

Horizontal skin

The external impression of a longer wall is usually created by one in the design of which there is a significant number of horizontal lines. Thus, it is quite possible to “lengthen” the wall if the material is nailed to it horizontally. Of course, the final decision can only be made after a thorough analysis:

the ratio of the free surfaces of the walls of the room;
mutual arrangement of door and window openings;
the prevailing direction of natural light in the room.

The last factor deserves special attention. If the room faces south or southeast, then the sun's rays come in during the first half of the day. If panels are nailed horizontally in such a room, then as a result you can successfully get rid of the unpleasant effect of shadows in the gaps between adjacent lining boards. Accordingly, for rooms facing opposite sides of the world, a similar result can be achieved if the walls are sheathed vertically.

Finally, the vertical direction of laying allows you to mask the connecting elements of the board, which are placed in its end part. If you nail the material horizontally, then all the connecting parts will be visible.

Influence of the direction of laying on the durability of the skin

Under normal temperature and humidity conditions in the room, the laying direction - horizontally or vertically - does not affect the durability of the wooden lining, not to mention the plastic one. But this factor will be of great importance if you nail wooden boards in the bathroom or in any of the bath and sauna rooms. The same is true for exterior cladding or lining in an unheated room, for example, in a garage.

For the garage lining is also suitable as a finish

Consider the positive and negative factors of various ways of laying lining for rooms with sharply different microclimates.

The vertical arrangement of the panels can be achieved:

facilitating the conditions for the natural removal of condensate from the walls;
reducing material consumption (no need to cut "to size" of each panel);
speeding up the installation process of the coating.

The horizontal placement of the lining provides:

the same operating conditions for each row of boards;
ensuring good ventilation of the room due to the presence of longitudinal gaps between adjacent panels of material;
facilitating repairs when it is necessary to replace one or more boards that have become unusable.

At the same time, horizontal laying creates conditions for ensuring greater durability not only of the lining itself, but also of its frame, since when the boards are placed vertically, condensate will constantly accumulate on the crate beams. This means that in order to prevent the substrate from rotting when placed vertically on the crate frame, it will be necessary to attach additional lining bars, on which the crate will already be mounted. It is clear that the size of the room will decrease as a result.

The question - whether to lay the lining horizontally or vertically - is also important for ventilation. For example, with horizontal laying, natural ventilation deteriorates noticeably, therefore, it is necessary to equip the room with a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system, which is costly and time-consuming to arrange.

Summarizing all of the above, we can conclude that for rooms with a special mode of operation, it is more profitable to place facing panels not vertically, but horizontally, even if at the expense of the laboriousness of finishing work.

Wooden lining is a versatile material. She is revetted with surfaces both outside and inside residential buildings, baths, utility rooms. The most common option is the cladding of facades, walls and ceilings. But lining floors are rare, which is logical: the thickness and shape of the board do not allow you to create a high-quality and practical floor covering from it.

However, subject to certain requirements when choosing and installing the material, such a floor can be made in the bathhouse, in the country house, and in the apartment.

How to choose lining for the floor

In order not to make a mistake in choosing, you need to understand the types and characteristics of the material. So first about them.

Types of lining

The material is classified according to several criteria. The main one is the dimensions.

produced in different sizes. Its length can be any, the width of the board can vary from 12 cm to 15 cm, and the thickness from 12 mm to 25 mm. The height of the ridge and the depth of the groove, through which the lamellas are connected to each other, is 4-5 mm.

produced according to European standards. It has a standard thickness (13 mm, 16 mm, 19 mm) and a small range of sizes in width: from 8 cm to 12 cm. It differs from the usual one in other parameters. In particular, grooves are cut on its reverse side to remove condensate, the groove depth reaches 8-9 mm, which makes the lock connection more durable.

For reference. Another advantage of eurolining lies in the industrial processing with special compounds, which allows you to skip the stage of antiseptic material before installation. But its price is higher than that of a conventional lining.

Another important classifying feature is the type of wood from which the lining is made. Not only decorative, but also operational qualities of the material depend on it.

For example, the most budget option is spruce. But its wood is unstable to decay, so this lining is not used for external work and for finishing wet rooms.

The profile of the cladding board affects the appearance of the surface.

Plenty of options:

Which lining is suitable for the floor

Wood makes an ideal floor covering: durable, warm, relatively silent, natural. However, not every lining is suitable for its creation. Let's say more: it is not intended for this purpose.

But if you decide to use it, then choose a material with the following characteristics:

Sufficient thickness. Only planks with a thickness of at least 20 mm are suitable for the floor. And then, provided that they will fit on a solid, even base.

Abrasion resistance. Material from soft and loose wood (pine, alder) will quickly wear out and lose its appearance. This indicator can be neglected with a small load on the coating. For example, in the pantry or in the bath.
Resistant to operating conditions. For example, resinous pine resists moisture quite well, but when exposed to high temperatures, the resin begins to exude to the surface. Therefore, lining from it is suitable for the floor in the dressing room, but not in the steam room.

It is important! A board made of glued wood will not withstand good heating, even if it is hardwood and hardwood. It will start to loosen up over time.

Board profile. It is clear that the floors cannot be made from a blockhouse or an American - it will be impossible to walk on it because of the relief. The classic lining with recesses at the joints will not work either, as dust and dirt will accumulate in them. There remains one option - a calm that creates a flat surface without obvious protrusions and recesses.

Of course, the grade of the material must be high, otherwise the surface subjected to severe loads will quickly wear out and lose its appearance.

But you choose an ordinary board or eurolining, it does not matter much. In any case, the instruction requires high-quality pre-treatment of the lamellas with antiseptic compounds and subsequent finishing with paints and varnishes.

Laying lining on the floor

As mentioned above, lining can only be laid on a solid, solid and even base. These can be sheet materials (OSB, chipboard, plywood) along the logs or an old plank floor, subject to its mechanical strength.

Advice. It is not necessary to fasten the lining directly to the crate - its thickness is not enough to withstand a decent load.

Before installing the coating, the base is prepared:

Repair cracks, joints, potholes;
Sanded down to a perfectly smooth finish. If pits or tubercles remain on the surface, the lock joints on them will certainly break;

Remove dust and debris;
Cover the base with a moisture-resistant primer or lay a moisture-proof film on it.

Installation of lining to the base is carried out as usual - on kleimers. Or it is screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, and it is very desirable to drill holes for them at an angle from the side of the spike. The second plank is inserted into the groove already fixed, tightly knocked out and also screwed.

Note! When laying on an old plank floor, the lining should be laid perpendicular to the direction in which the boards lie. Or diagonally. But the directions of the new and old coatings should not coincide.

Also, do not forget to leave a small gap for thermal expansion between the walls and the coating. It will close with a plinth.

Caring for floors from lining

Untreated wood quickly loses its appearance. To maintain the attractiveness of such a coating, immediately after installation, the lining must be painted, varnished or treated with oil and wax. Very light wood under varnish can be washed or colored oil can be used.

The rules for caring for the floor from the lining are as follows:

It cannot be wetted much;
Do not use abrasives or solvents to remove contaminants;
Appeared cracks and fallen knots should be sealed with putty to match the wood.

It is best to walk on the floor with a vacuum cleaner before wet cleaning, paying special attention to the connecting seams. If the coating has nevertheless lost its appearance, ineradicable spots and defects have appeared on it, it can be repaired by removing the old coating and the upper dirty layer with a grinder, and again treating it with paints and varnishes.

Conclusion

Installation of lining is a simple matter, anyone can handle it. Those who doubt their abilities can study the process in advance using the video in this article.

Another thing is the expediency of such a decision. The installation of a grooved floorboard floor will not cost more and take less time, and the coating itself will turn out to be more durable and durable.

Lining on the floor will justify itself only if you have excess material left after finishing the walls or ceiling. But even in this case, we do not recommend laying it in large rooms with a constant load.

Clapboard as a finishing material has been widely used for the last twenty years. The material made of natural wood fell in love with everyone, both builders-finishers, and customers, and diligent homeowners, who are accustomed to doing everything with their own hands and who have learned how to lay lining from their own experience.

And how to do this, and most importantly, how to properly lay the lining, we will outline in this article.

Lining - simplicity and environmental friendliness

Breathable structure of natural wood;
beautiful texture;
ease of installation;
visual alignment of all sewn surfaces;
the warmth and comfort created by lining in the premises made it in demand for finishing interiors and exterior cladding of country houses, summer cottages, baths and saunas.

The warmth and aroma of wood, environmental friendliness, showed themselves especially well in the decoration of baths and saunas, where high temperature and high humidity do not allow the use of other materials without harm to health.

Lining production

High-tech four-sided woodworking machines are used for this. The capabilities of the machines make it possible to produce products of different profiles and thicknesses, and the quality of processing and the type of wood divide the finished lining into grades according to the European classification (grade Extra, A, B, C).

The quality classification looks like this:

Variety "Extra"– perfectly smooth processed boards, without knots and mechanical damage, with a moisture content of not more than 8%;

Grade A (Premium)- well planed smooth boards, without mechanical damage, without chips, cracks, blue, a small, healthy, light knot is allowed;
Grade B (Standard)- high-quality processed wood, without blue, chips and cracks, light and dark knots are allowed;
Grade C (Economy)– knots, small chips, cracks up to 0.3 mm are allowed.
Permissible humidity of all varieties according to GOST is not more than 12%.
The lining is also subdivided according to the types of wood from which it is made.
For production, wood of pine, spruce, larch, linden, aspen, less often oak, maple and other hardwoods is used.

Mounting

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the surface area on which the lining will be laid, and purchase the required number of planks with a margin of + 10%. The lining is sold in different lengths, you need to choose the length that will be used with a minimum of scraps.

For interior decoration of residential premises, pine or spruce lining with a thickness of 12 to 16 mm is used. and a width of 80-110 mm. Be sure to make sure that the humidity of the lining is within the normal range, not more than 12%, otherwise, when drying, cracks may appear between the ridge and the groove and the boards themselves will warp.

The next moment of preparation is the need to clearly define how the lining will fit. In small rooms with high ceilings, the lining can be laid horizontally, it is better to sew up long walls vertically, and the lining is also laid in a herringbone pattern, but this method is used when sheathing external walls.

Two days before the start of work, the entire lining must be unpacked and laid on the gaskets in layers in the room where it will be laid, giving it the opportunity to acclimatize.

Installation of the crate under the lining

Before starting the installation, the walls are aligned as much as possible. If the walls of a wooden house are being prepared for lining, the log crowns of which are assembled from unrounded logs, the butt parts of the logs should be hemmed with an ax and planed with a planer.

After that, you can proceed to the installation of the crate.

The most common technology for laying the lining vertically, it should be considered when starting to prepare the crate:

First, the upper bar is installed along the ceiling, and the lower one along the floor level.
The verticality of the bars is checked by level, or in the old-fashioned way by a plumb line.
In the corners, between the bars, the laces are pulled vertically, and then, at a distance of 1.5 meters, the same ones are added.
The bars are attached to the wall at a distance of 90-100 cm from each other with self-tapping screws, and if there are irregularities on the wall, the entire crate is aligned in one plane with linings under the bars, where necessary, but strictly under the screws.

Note!
For the crate, bars 50 × 40 (30) mm are used, pre-treated with an antiseptic of the Senezh type.

Note!
To mount the lathing on brick and other stone walls, the bars are fastened with self-tapping screws to plastic dowels, and, if necessary, to wooden plugs.

We lay the lining on the wall

Laying lining on the wall, starts from the corner of the room. The first plank of the lining is installed very carefully, the verticality of the installation is checked by a level, and is securely attached to the bars of the crate.
It is installed with a comb in a corner, the groove will always be open during installation and you can hammer finishing nails into it, screw in the screws “in the pot” or fasten them from the side of the groove with clamps, that is, so that the next installed lining with a comb overlaps the place of attachment to the crate of the previous board. (see photo)
The top and bottom of each lining can be fastened open, but closer to the edge, so that later the heads can be covered with a plinth and a ceiling cornice.
If at the end of laying the boards on the wall, the latter does not lie entirely in the corner, the excess is cut off with an electric jigsaw along the entire lining. When installing, it is imperative to take into account the possible shrinkage of the house or the expansion of the planks in the event of an increase in humidity, and therefore it is required to leave a gap of 15-20 mm above and below, which will also be closed with skirting boards.

Decoration of windows and doorways

One of the most difficult moments of work, the design of windows and doorways. If during the laying process, having reached the window or door slope, the lining protrudes beyond it, it is necessary to mark the excess with a pencil along the slopes and cut it out with a jigsaw. At the final finishing, decorate the slopes with a wooden or plastic corner.

A little more about laying the lining

Now about how to properly lay the lining on the ceiling. The whole order of work, as well as with laying it on the walls, remains the same. The only thing that is required to strengthen the structure is to reduce the distance between the bars of the crate to 70-80 cm, and be sure to calculate the location of the wider bar at the junction of the lining.

When laying the lining on the ceiling, most often the planks have to be joined or bought a lining of great length, which is often difficult to use in small enclosed spaces.

A separate question is how to style and saunas. Here we should not forget the specifics of the premises and the technologies applicable to them.

Baths and saunas:

Aluminum foil is laid along the crate of the walls and ceiling and fastened to them with brackets.
Only linden or aspen lining is laid on the walls and ceiling.
All decorative elements for finishing are made of the same wood as on the walls and ceiling.

Here is such an instruction turned out to be how to make high-quality and environmentally friendly interior decoration of your home, cottage, bath or sauna with your own hands, so that the price is not high and the work is a pleasure. To more clearly familiarize yourself with the described process, your attention is a video - watch and learn!

Despite the emergence of an increasing number of various finishing materials, "lining" still "does not go out of fashion." This natural wood material is loved for its environmental friendliness, attractive appearance, the ability to hide irregularities and defects in walls and ceilings, and, importantly, for the relative ease of installation. Not only professional builders, but also “home craftsmen” will be able to qualitatively sheathe walls or ceilings with wooden clapboard. Of course, for this you need to follow a few simple rules, which we will discuss in this article. So, we lay the wooden lining on our own.

Calculation of the required amount of material

Before going to the store, you need to decide on the required amount of material. If, to calculate the required number of wallpapers, it is enough to simply divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls by the area of \u200b\u200bthe roll and, in some cases, add 10% to the “report”, then when calculating the required amount of lining, the situation is somewhat more complicated.

The lining is produced in lengths of 6, 4, 3, 2.7, 2.1 and 2 meters. Ideally, when the length of your wall is equal to or slightly less than one of the lining lengths offered on the market. But what if it is significantly smaller than one of the sizes, but at the same time slightly larger than the other. Let's analyze this case with an example.

Let's say you need to sheathe a wall 3 meters 12 centimeters long. For this purpose, you can purchase a lining 4 meters long, but in this case, almost a quarter of the material will be unclaimed (in other words, you will buy lining 25% more than you need). Another option is to buy boards that are 3 meters long and complete each of them with a small piece. But, you see, such "shorty" will not look very nice. Therefore, the best option in this case would be to buy a lining with a length of 2 meters 10 centimeters. Thus, we can close three rows of lining with two boards (one whole and one cut in half) and the amount of waste in this case will be minimal. Based on this, it will be enough to divide the height of the room by the height of one board of the lining and multiply the resulting result by 1.5. That is how many boards 2.1 meters long will be needed for sheathing this wall.

An example of laying a lining "three boards in two rows"

The choice of lining in the store

Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, lining must be carefully selected. Moreover, the brand of the manufacturer in this case plays absolutely no role - even for the same company, two different batches of lining can differ significantly from each other.

Lining according to its quality is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. The Extra variety is of the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and it is almost guaranteed to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of marriage.

It is better to buy a lining not in a package - you can inspect each board and weed out defects before buying

Grade A is also of fairly high quality, but with grades B and C, it’s better, as they say, to “keep your eyes open”. It is better to purchase a lining not in a package - this way you can inspect each board and weed out marriage before buying. But such lining is sold extremely rarely, more often boards are packed in 10 pieces in a transparent film. In this case, it will not be possible to inspect each board, unfortunately.

More often, boards are packed in 10 pieces in a transparent film.

Although, in truth, completely unusable boards are extremely rare. Even with one or two knots, the board can be used to make short pieces for sheathing the slopes of a window or, say, a door frame.

But the ends of the lining, visible through the film, it makes sense to inspect quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, then it is better to put such packages aside.

Before laying the lining must be prepared in a certain way. Firstly, you need to inspect the boards for knots and cracks, and if they are found, either put these boards aside or (if there is “back-to-back” material) eliminate defects by cleaning or puttying problem areas. And, secondly, the lining must be allowed to "acclimatize" in the room. In other words, it must reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored on the street) after laying the board, it can “lead”. To do this, it is enough to lay out the boards in several layers, making spacers from the timber between them.

Before laying the lining must be prepared in a certain way

Some believe that at the preparatory stage, the lining must be treated with antiseptics, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply an antiseptic already on the finished walls, so this stage of preparation can be skipped.

Wall preparation

The preparation of walls for laying lining can be considered the most important stage, on which the final result largely depends. In most cases, except for those when the lining is stuffed directly onto wooden walls, to install it on the walls, it is necessary to mount a crate of timber.

To mount the lining on the walls, it is necessary to mount a crate from a bar

A bar with a section of 40 by 20 millimeters is best suited for this purpose.

You can not pre-level the walls before laying the lining, but it’s necessary to set the crate at one level.

To do this, the first step is to determine the most protruding section on each wall. To do this is quite simple. Under the ceiling, at a distance of 5-7 centimeters from the wall, a cord is pulled, on which, with the help of a wire hook, a thread with a load is hung, which is a plumb line. Next, the plumb line moves along the wall. By controlling the distance between the plumb line and different points of the wall, it will be possible to determine the most protruding section. All further measurements will have to "dance" from this place.

A small piece of timber is attached to the most protruding section of the wall, from which the crate will be mounted. From this "beacon" a thread is pulled, parallel to the planned direction of laying the lining. After that, at the extreme points of the wall (at the floor and ceiling with vertical installation or at opposite walls with horizontal installation), two load-bearing beams are installed. Please note that the front of the beam must clearly coincide with the level of the lighthouse, so that if necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall.

If necessary, small spacers of the required thickness are installed between the beam and the wall

Gaskets can only be installed in those places where the timber will be attached to the wall with dowel-nails.

When the extreme bars are fixed (do not forget to check them with a level), another thread can be pulled between them, which will facilitate the installation of the remaining load-bearing elements of the crate.

Subsequent bars are attached to the wall at a distance of about one meter from each other. In this case, as in the case of the extreme bars, if necessary, additional gaskets are placed under them. If one row of lining will be formed from two boards, be sure to install a beam at the junction.

Mounting lining on the wall

If the crate is installed correctly, the installation of the lining itself will not be difficult. The only question that needs to be resolved before installing it is where to start laying the lining and whether to use a level when installing the first board.

To answer this question, it is necessary to determine how the ceiling (when laid horizontally) or walls (when laid vertically) in the room correspond to the level. If they are even, then no problem - you can start the installation both from above and from below (or from any angle), and the first board is fixed strictly according to the level. But if the ceiling is a little “littered” to one side or one of the corners noticeably “mows” (this situation is quite common in old-built houses), then it is by no means possible to lay the lining according to the level. In this case, straight-standing boards will only emphasize the curvature of the room, and in an uneven corner you will have to cut the last of the boards “at an angle”.

In order to hide the unevenness of the room as much as possible, the lining is laid as follows. The first board is fastened close to a crooked corner or uneven ceiling, and all subsequent boards are installed with a slight bias on one side, until the next board “gets up to the level”. Thus, a slight slope of the boards will be almost invisible.

To determine exactly how skewed the boards are to be installed, you need to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling in opposite corners of the room (or the length of the floor and ceiling between opposite corners when laying vertically) and divide the difference between the obtained values by the number of boards that will be laid on the smaller side . The resulting value will be the distance at which you need to "fill up" each of the lining boards along the longer side of the laying. If this value is less than 2-3 millimeters, you can repeat the calculation, using half the number of boards as a divisor. In this case, you will “level up” already in the middle of the wall.

The first board of the lining is fastened with a "comb" to the corner. You can fix it with the help of small studs that are driven in “in a sweat” (in the final finishing it is better to use a blunt closer) or with the help of special clamps - gluers.

You can fix the lining with the help of small nails, which are driven in "sweat"

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