Chrysanthemums: propagation by stem cuttings. Reproduction of chrysanthemums: different methods, features, step-by-step cutting instructions

Many gardeners love chrysanthemums for the ability to grow both on personal plot as well as at home. To increase the number of flowers, there is a need for division; for some flower growers, grafting seems to be the simplest. Others are sure that propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings in autumn is very difficult, and it is impossible to do it at home. Such misconceptions prevent the plant from developing naturally.

The main subtleties of the procedure

First you need to figure out what is meant by chrysanthemum cuttings. It is not only one of effective methods reproduction, but reliable way improve the varietal characteristics of the plant.

This result cannot be achieved with the seed method of reproduction and division of the bush. Chrysanthemums are famous for a wide range of varieties, among the same variety there are specimens that are different in appearance and condition.

Chrysanthemums propagated by cuttings become more lush, this is especially evident in the spherical varieties of flowers.

Other benefits of chrysanthemum cuttings include:

• the ability to get a flower with the desired parameters;
• no spending on purchases planting material;
• chrysanthemums grown by cuttings are easier to cope with diseases and repel pest attacks;
• such chrysanthemums are able to grow with low temperatures without getting damaged.

Before starting the procedure, it is necessary to understand that the propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings has its own characteristics:

• how more density process, the more difficult it is for it to take root;
• rooting of flowers with larger inflorescences is slower;
• early shoots produce taller flowers;
• even if cuttings of different periods, but of the same variety, are taken, they will ripen at the same time.

You can breed chrysanthemums with early and late cuttings. Each group has its own characteristics:

• early cuttings are harvested at the end of winter, when the length of daylight hours is still small, they take root within a month;
• late cuttings are prepared at the height of spring, they take root quickly - within 2 weeks.

cuttings by season

An important issue that requires a deliberate decision is the choice of cutting season. Chrysanthemums propagate well from cuttings in the fall, but some gardeners do so in the summer and spring. There are reasons for this, but it is better to choose a season based on the following criteria:

• variety of flowers;
• inflorescence size;
• the number of stems.

Also, in each case, it is necessary to assess the condition of the plant, but you should not avoid specimens that have wilted, they will easily and quickly recover with further correct actions.

In autumn

Cuttings of chrysanthemums in autumn are more effective, because this is the time of flowering of these plants. It is necessary to have a mother bush, from which the root and basal shoots are taken, which next spring must run.

Propagating chrysanthemum cuttings in autumn is convenient for gardeners who grow chrysanthemums for sale. Also practiced in the fall is the so-called green cuttings chrysanthemums.

Among the obvious disadvantages of autumn cuttings:

• the need to constantly monitor the humidity of the earth and the ambient temperature;
• low survival rate of cuttings;
• the danger of missing the time of planting the cuttings, when they will develop normally.

In spring and summer

For propagation by cuttings in the spring, a lignified stem is used, from which shoots appear when they are in a warm room.

Weak shoots should be disposed of, sick ones are also not suitable because of the danger of infection of neighboring specimens. Flowers from them will appear only next spring with favorable development. In summer, you can cut chrysanthemum as follows:

• choose a flower with the softest top;
• cut off a part of the top 10 cm long;
• put her in a vessel in a dark room;
• provide the shoot with regular and moderate watering;
• do not forget to spray it in the heat;
• cuttings will take root after 3 weeks.

Preparing flowers for propagation

Before attempting to propagate chrysanthemums, cuttings should be carefully prepared. They must meet certain conditions:

• it is advisable to choose a stem with processes, the rooting of which is faster;
• the plant must be absolutely healthy, it must be carefully examined;
• it is better to choose a plant with a large and double inflorescence;
• there should be several cuttings; if one is unusable, the rest will take root.

Shortly before frost in the fall, it is necessary to cut off the upper part of the chrysanthemum, leaving no more than 5 cm. The places of cuts must be treated with peat, sand, earth or nitrogen fertilizers. After 2 weeks or less, but when the shoots reach a length of 8 cm, the bush, which is called the mother, should be dug out of the ground, placed in a vessel of a suitable size, the root part should be surrounded by a nutrient earthen mixture.

The vessel must be placed in a cellar, greenhouse or in a room in which the temperature is constantly kept at 5-7 ° C for 3-4 weeks, this process is called vernalization of uterine shoots. If the temperature is higher, then the shoots will appear ahead of schedule.

Proper care in winter contributes to the successful cuttings of chrysanthemum. In addition to maintaining the temperature regime, it is necessary to control humidity: the earth should not be allowed to dry out, but it should also be watered moderately. Abundant watering is necessary a couple of weeks before spring before cuttings. The remaining roots of the mother plant should be watered - they can give new shoots. You can also put them in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

cutting process

When the young shoots reach a length of 8 cm and form 2-3 internodes (preferably short), they should be carefully cut off from the mother bush. It is necessary to leave 3-4 pairs of leaves, which will give new shoots for cuttings, but the lower leaves must be cut off.

The length of the handle depends on the specific time of harvesting - with early dates you can make cuttings up to 15 cm long, if it is already late autumn, then it is better to stop at short cuttings. The fabric of the handle should be medium - not too hard and stubborn to the touch. It is impossible to cut chrysanthemums with diseased and weak shoots.

The flower heads must be completely removed. The main shoot must be divided into cuttings, the length of one is 5-7 cm. For this purpose, it is desirable to use the middle part of the shoot, cuts are made at an oblique or right angle, depending on the position of the flower buds.

Remove from cuttings upper leaves and trim off the bottom leaves. On average, you need to make 20-25 cuttings. In order for further rooting to go better, the cuttings should be placed for half a day in a vessel with a solution that stimulates growth, among them Kornevin, Bioglobin, you can add Activated carbon. Water for the solution must be settled or boiled.

If the cuttings suddenly begin to rot, then measures must be taken:

• cut off the lower rotten part without affecting the healthy part;
• pour fresh water into the container;
• dissolve activated charcoal.

If the process dries up, then you should not panic - later it will take root safely.

Soil Requirements

It is necessary to prepare the soil mixture at home. Experienced gardeners know several options for such a mixture and choose the most suitable for them:

• peat, sand, turf, taken in equal quantities;
• equally sand and leaf ground and 2 times less turf;
• compost and peat in equal proportions and 2 times more sandy soil;
• sand, perlite, coconut fiber, a special mixture purchased at the store, in the future, a little mineral fertilizer can be added to such a mixture, but follow the measures, the following top dressing should be after rooting;
• sand and vermiculite;
• the soil mixture should have a neutral reaction;
• at the bottom of the pot there must be drainage, which is suitable for brick or expanded clay.

It is impossible to take garden or garden soil as a component of the soil mixture. street land due to the danger of infections, being in the ground harmful substances. The soil should always pass moisture and air well.

Capacity selection

Planting cuttings should be carried out in containers that meet certain requirements: at first, a small but deep vessel will do. The danger of large vessels is that a small plant may not take root, the moisture and nutrients that it has not absorbed will rot, which leads to the death of the plant.

The ideal size is where the root system is free. Both containers without compartments and those with compartments are equally suitable. Another option is breeding in separate plastic cups or small pots - up to 3 shoots can be placed there, which are subsequently converted into one bush. If the processes are weak, they should be fixed by pegs.

Planting cuttings and caring for them

If the cuttings are placed in a vessel without compartments, then the distance between them should be 4-5 cm, their leaves should not touch each other in the future. In the soil mixture, the level of which in the vessel should not exceed 6 cm, you can add charcoal for disinfection.

It is also recommended to lay a layer of perlite or river sand. The mixture should fit snugly to the cuttings, for this you need to carefully water it. Planting is done at a depth of 3 cm. Cuttings must be carefully placed in the soil mixture to avoid damage.

Further care will help to quickly grow a beautiful chrysanthemum from a cutting. One of the main conditions is the greenhouse mode in the first 2 weeks, until the final rooting has occurred, if the plant is not in the greenhouse, then there should be a film or a transparent jar on top.

But between top cuttings and film should be a gap of 30 cm, which will ensure a normal flow of air. The greenhouse shelter needs to be removed from time to time, but at night the plant should always be under it.

The average temperature in the room should be 15-20 °C. It is necessary to protect the shoots from direct sunlight - when the sun is active, take them into the shade, use blackout curtains or blinds, the rest of the time they feel good on the windowsill.

In winter, with a lack of light, it is necessary to provide seedlings artificial lighting. In hot weather, spraying several times a day is necessary, it helps shoots grow faster. It is impossible to do without applying mineral fertilizers 2-3 times a month, it is better to focus on nitrogen-containing substances.

After rooting, the film must be removed immediately. After a week, the shoots of the cuttings should be placed in containers with a volume of no more than 300 ml, pinch the top leaves. The term may be later if the shoots have not begun to form. A clear sign is the formation of buds and leaves.

Regular pinching is done when the side shoots reach a length of 10-12 cm. It is also necessary to remember about competent pruning, which can be started 2 months after rooting. Pruning contributes to the formation of lateral shoots, which give the plant splendor.

In the absence of the possibility of planting cuttings in separate containers, they can be placed in the cellar, on the terrace or veranda, where the temperature is kept at 10 ° C. Wet sand is also suitable for this purpose, in which carefully wrapped cuttings are placed. These methods are good for controlling moisture - high humidity will damage the cuttings, they will become sick and rot.

The ideal time for planting cuttings in open ground is September, when top part will grow enough and will grow steadily. It is risky to plant cuttings in open ground with probable early frosts in the area; weather conditions should always be taken into account when planting. In a favorable climate, planting is carried out in May-June, when the cuttings take root without problems, they will have enough time for this.

Before planting, the plant must be well watered, the level of immersion in the soil must be identical to the previous level in the pot, the sprouts are placed in the same way as indoors.

You can not do without good mulching, which ideally should be after each watering. Subject to all the rules with such cuttings, you can get about 20 bushes.

Growing chrysanthemum from a bouquet

Another popular method of propagation is cuttings from a bouquet. It is necessary to wait for the bouquet to dry completely, then cut off the top of the stems.

With this method, cuttings can be used side shoots from which should be completely removed. flower buds. Then place the shoot in a container with an earthen mixture with a composition similar to the above.

Breeding chrysanthemums with cuttings is a fairly simple task that does not require special skills and abilities. But patience and attention to the conditions of keeping the cuttings are necessary. The more effort is made, the more tangible the result - the flowers are stronger and more magnificent. Do not chase quantity - it is better to focus on the quality of the plants grown.

These flowers can rightly be called imperial. They are depicted on the coat of arms of the Land of the Rising Sun and on Japanese coins. the highest award in this state is considered the Order of the Chrysanthemum. In the East, it is believed that the cultivation of a solar flower brings happiness. Amazing golden baskets delight in autumn days with bright colors of the bouquet. In the cut, such flowers can retain an attractive appearance for a long time - up to several weeks. Chrysanthemum reproduction of which is not difficult, will give the joy of contemplating the wonderful flowering on gloomy autumn days and fill the flower bed with beautiful baskets.

There are perennial and annual varieties. All of them belong to the Astrov family. They are shrubs or herbs. The length of the stem can vary from 0.5 to 1.5 meters. Flowers are collected in baskets. Most often they are quite large. Many varieties have terry inflorescences. Shoots can be not only naked, but also pubescent. The plant produces seeds.

About thirty are known wild species. Their natural habitat is the northern and temperate zones, located mainly in Asia. According to archaeological research, two and a half thousand years ago, the culture was known in China. The petals of the flower have even been used in cooking. Even the famous sage Confucius mentioned it in one of his treatises.

Then the plant came to the Land of the Rising Sun, where it became a revered symbol of the imperial family. In the countries of the Old World, they learned about the flower in the eighteenth century, but they began to actively grow it only a century later.

Know! The name of the flower is translated from Greek as "flower-sun", as well as "golden-colored". The plant received this name for the traditional yellow shade of the petals for many species.

In the scientific community, there are disputes about the origin of a common species - the garden chrysanthemum. Some researchers believe that its ancestors are the Japanese variety with small flowers and the Chinese variety with large ones. Other scientists put forward versions of a combination of a species from China with an Indian small-colored. Until now, breeders are actively engaged in the creation of new varieties of an amazing sunny flower.

Methods for propagating chrysanthemums at home

Flower growers successfully use several ways to get "kids". These methods are:

• cuttings;
• propagation by seed;
• division of the mother liquor;
• rooting cut flowers from a bouquet.

Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The best option the gardener determines on an individual basis.

How to propagate chrysanthemum cuttings from a bouquet

This option of getting "children" is not difficult. It is necessary to wait until the bouquet fades. After that, all the leaves are removed, and the top is pinched. The water in the vase is regularly updated until the roots appear. After that, the seedlings are transplanted into a garden bed or into a flowerpot. Seedlings should not be buried too deep. Five centimeters is enough. Dry inflorescences are ideal for collecting seeds. In the spring they will give life to the young.

The process of propagation of chrysanthemum cuttings in autumn and spring

Cuttings are an effective, proven method of obtaining young stock. The seed method and the principle of dividing the bush do not allow to properly preserve and transfer all the best varietal characteristics from the mother plant to the daughter plant. It is the cuttings that become the basis for growing powerful, healthy bushes with good immunity to major diseases. Such beauties are characterized abundant flowering. For this reason, cuttings are considered a reliable and simple method.

The soil

A suitable substrate will be a mixture consisting of earth, humus and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 2. On top of the pot, you will need to add river sand and peat in equal amounts. The layer should be no thicker than 5 centimeters. As a soil for rooting planting material, you can use a combination of sand in equal proportions with:

• sphagnum;
• perlite;
• vermiculite;
• peat.

An important step is the process of disinfection of the prepared soil mixture. This allows you to protect future seedlings from all kinds of diseases and makes it possible to grow strong seedlings. You can ignite the soil in the oven for at least an hour. The second option is to keep the substrate over the water bath steam for four hours. Then the soil mixture is treated with Baikal M-1, Gamair, Fitosporin, Alirin. This allows you to additionally get rid of pathogenic microorganisms in the ground and enrich the substrate with nutrients.

Attention! Only strong, thoroughly overgrown specimens are chosen as parental ones.

spring procedure

This is best period for cuttings. For early species optimum time it will be March-April, the middle and late interval will be suitable from April to May.

Starting from the second half of February, the uterine bush is moved to a warm room and abundant irrigation begins. It is advisable to carry out top dressing with organic matter. The key to good health and rapid development of young animals will be the introduction of ammonium nitrate. After the appearance of new young branches, it should take about a week and a half for them to reach 10 centimeters in length. Then they are cut off. Such a cutting should have at least four internodes.

To harvest planting material, the lower leaves on the cut shoots are removed and the upper ones are shortened by a third. Only a stump with a few leaves is left on the mother plant. They will become a new point of growth. Only elastic and strong cuttings are suitable for the propagation procedure. Too soft or hard twigs will not work. Existing buds must be removed.

Requires a moist substrate. The depth of the hole should not exceed two centimeters. The distance between the branches is five centimeters. Up to four blanks can be placed in one container. If possible, plant one shoot in cups or pots.

In the case of early varieties, the container with plantings is covered polyethylene film and take it out into the street. In such a greenhouse, the "roof" should rise 40 cm above the tops of the young. When watering, the film is lifted. When rooting, new leaves appear. After the appearance of five to seven pieces, pinch the bush. When the side branches reach 10 cm in length, the top is shortened again. In this way, a compact spreading bush is formed. It also becomes weather resistant.

A week before planting on the street, seedlings begin to harden. To do this, the young are left on the balcony or veranda, after removing the film. At night, the bushes must be covered. After the threat of frost has passed, the seedlings are moved to the open ground.

Attention! It is important not to expose the "kids" to the harmful effects of a draft.

There is a hassle-free cutting option. It does not require either germination or growing seedlings - you can directly plant blanks in a flower bed. This can be done in May-June, when summer finally comes into its own and it becomes really warm. Shoots are cut on overwintered bushes. These should be young branches of the current growing season. Their length should not be less than 15 cm. It is required to cut the shoots to half.

The blanks are immediately determined on a high ridge. It is required to sprinkle them with sand and thoroughly shed the soil with water. From above organize shelter. Between the film and the tops of the young should remain at least half a meter. On warm days, the cover can be removed. In cold weather - install. Two weeks after the appearance of the root system, "teenagers" are transplanted to permanent place.

Attention! Best of all, flowers feel in open sunny flower beds. This ensures their active growth and development. The decorative period with a good level of illumination can stretch up to a month.

Cuttings in the summer are even easier. Sometimes a shoot planted outside of any rules and recommendations develops into beautiful bush. It is only advisable not to cut the shoots in too hot, cold or unstable weather. Suitable green tops up to 15 cm long. It is better to plant them in a shaded area.

"Kids" need to be sprayed several times daily and watered as needed. After two or three weeks, the stems give roots. Development begins. Now they can be transplanted to a permanent sunny place. Transfer necessarily with an earthen clod. Teenagers are growing fast. By autumn, you can already see flowers on them.

Autumn procedure

First, they wait until the mother bush fades. Then cut off the aerial part to the root. And in this form, the plant is left for a couple of weeks, before the onset of cold weather. Then the mother liquor is transferred for wintering to a house or greenhouse.

After the appearance of basal shoots, they wait until they grow up to ten centimeters in length. After that they are separated.

Attention! In autumn, the cuttings are not cut, namely, they are torn off from the roots. This is the fundamental difference in the procedure in different periods of the year. Planting care will be the same.

If it was not possible to transplant the young to the street in September, then they organize wintering indoors. A dry basement, a glazed loggia or a warm veranda is suitable. Monitor the condition of the substrate - it should not dry out or be too moist. It is important to feel the measure in everything. In the spring, "teenagers" are moved to a permanent place in the flower bed.

Chrysanthemum seed propagation technology

Cuttings and division of maternal bushes are the most simple ways. But breeding with the help of sowing allows you to engage in breeding activities. This method is relevant not only for the propagation of perennials, but also for annual varieties.

In the case of the latter, sowing is carried out after the end of the period spring frosts. Depressions in the soil are made at a distance of 25 centimeters. The wells are watered with heated water, a few grains are placed in each. Sprinkling the crops with soil, be sure to create a film shelter. After the appearance of the first growth, the film is removed. The soil must be loosened and weeds must be removed.

After a week and a half, the "kids" are fed with a solution of "Rainbow" or "Ideal". When the seedlings grow up to nine centimeters, one of the healthiest ones is chosen, and the rest are removed from the hole. They can be moved to another flower garden. "Teens" will begin to bloom around August.

Important! If more is required early period decorative - it is recommended to grow young growth through seedlings.

She is raised in room conditions. Not too deep containers will be needed. The prepared substrate is poured there. For the mixture, peat, earth and humus are taken in equal proportions. If self-prepared soil is used, it must be disinfected. To do this, the soil must be calcined in the oven at a temperature of 120 degrees.

You can buy already prepared substrate in the store. At the bottom of the box, a special drainage layer of expanded clay or brick chips, pebbles is equipped. The soil mixture is laid on top. The seeds are laid out on top. Sowing material of annuals is lightly sprinkled with earth, and perennials - only slightly pressed into the substrate with the palm of your hand.

Crops are sprayed with water from a fine spray gun, cover the container with glass. Required temperature regime indoors is in the range from 23 to 25 degrees. Periodically, the shelter is raised, providing an opportunity for airing plantings and moistening the soil as needed.

Young shoots will appear in about two weeks. After that, the container is transferred to a well-lit place and the seedlings gradually acclimatize. First, the film cover is removed for an hour, then for two, and so with time it is finally removed.
If it is necessary to thin out too dense plantings, wait for phases of 3-4 true leaves. Seedlings dive into separate pots. It is important to carefully handle the delicate roots of seedlings. It is better to thoroughly saturate the soil in a container with moisture beforehand. Weak, frail seedlings are removed.

Important! It is advisable to treat the “kids” with diluted “Epin” or “Zircon” after the picking event. This will allow the “teenagers” to quickly settle down in a new place.

The optimum room temperature should be 16-18⁰C. Watering seedlings should be moderate, as needed. Feeding twice a month complex fertilizer. In case of insufficient lighting, they provide additional lighting with the help of special fitolamps. "Kids" grow slowly - only 20 centimeters in a month and a half.

Seedlings are moved to the flower bed after the end of the season of return frosts. Most often, this opportunity appears at the end of May or at the beginning of the first summer month. Chrysanthemums can also be planted in autumn, but no later than a couple of weeks before the first frost.

For a sunny flower, an elevated area with good drainage, warmed and illuminated by sunlight for at least five hours a day. The territory must be reliably protected from harsh and strong winds. The soil should be slightly acidic or neutral in ph, saturated with nutrients. It is preferable to grow a garden beauty on loam. Clay soils or sand is improved by adding organic matter.

Important! You can not allow the use of fresh manure - the flower does not tolerate it. Prefers humus. It can be added immediately before planting to a special nutrient complex.

With an overdose of fertilizers, garden beauty may not bloom, but begin to rapidly gain green mass.
For planting young animals in the garden choose a cloudy day. It is even better to plant in the rain. The height of the bushes should already reach at least thirty centimeters and not exceed fifty. After planting, the seedlings are watered with diluted Kornevin. 1 gram per liter of water will be enough to get a healthy root system. After transplantation, the “teenagers” have the top removed. After pinching, the bed is covered with lutrasil to create an optimal microclimate for growth and development. As soon as the seedlings take root, the cover is removed.

We propagate chrysanthemum by dividing the bush

Upon reaching the perennial age three years, an overgrown adult bush is desirable to divide. This is one way to get new plants. The algorithm of necessary actions is quite simple:

• the bush is carefully dug up and freed from excess land;
• save him from old shoots that have already become woody;
• separate fresh branches;
• cut young shoots if they are very long;
• they are planted in separate holes at a distance of twenty-five centimeters.

The event can be held late spring or late summer. In the latter case, you will need to prepare the garden beauty for the arrival of winter.

We propagate chrysanthemum with layering

The method is relevant in the case of winter-hardy species or indoor varieties. For breeding and getting "kids" it is enough just to dig up the shoots. In autumn, a trench is made next to the mother bush. Its depth and width should correspond to the width and height of the plant. The stem with other shoots is tilted and placed in a groove, attached to the bottom with a bracket. A layer of soil 20 cm thick is poured on top. In this form, the mother liquor is left for the winter.

In the spring, new stems emerge from the buds. Each of them will have its own root system. After the end of the frost period, the mother liquor is released and divided into parts according to the number of root branches. Then the resulting "children" are seated in a flower bed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by sowing seeds in open ground

You can sow from the time the flowers appear until mid-August. The method is suitable for almost all annuals. The procedure is as follows:

1. The distance between the holes is approximately 40 cm.
2. Be sure to water the prepared holes. Place two seeds in each hole. Sprinkle the crops with earth and cover with polyethylene.
3. After the appearance of the first growth - remove the shelter. Feed after a week. Thin out seedlings at a seedling height of eleven centimeters.

Common mistakes when propagating chrysanthemums and how to avoid them

Breeding a solar flower does not require special skills. But, given the experience of other gardeners, it is important to avoid common beginner mistakes.

It is better to cut the mother liquors as low as possible. Do not leave long stems. The main thing is to try to carry out the manipulation very carefully and not damage the sleeping kidneys. Conduct pre-processing from rot and insects.
If you bring flowerpots with mother bushes a little earlier from the basement and provide them with additional illumination, the growth will not stretch out and will not be frail.

The mother liquor should be cut back in December. Otherwise, the garden beauty will hardly give young shoots, weaken and die.
In winter, it is better not to engage in dividing the bush. This is because the root shoots differ in height and do not have their own roots. It is better to carry out the plan in February or March. Cuttings are also better at the same time.

When trying to root cut flowers from a bouquet, the material does not always take root. This can happen for a number of reasons:

• weak mother plants or shoots;
• temperature fluctuations or lack of heat in the room;
• it is impossible to overexpose the blanks in a solution of a growth-enhancing drug - this is the main mistake;
• do not place rooted material in water - only soil;
• the absence of a polyethylene "cap" over the landings;
• defeat by a fungal disease from the soil;
• poor quality of the stalk taken for propagation (for example, too soft).

Conclusion

Chrysanthemum will delight the gardener and his loved ones, and simple breeding methods will fill the garden with bright colors of imperial flowers.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums – the most productive and proven method of breeding these flowers. When propagating in other ways - by seeds, dividing the bush - an inevitable loss occurs. quality characteristics kind.

Chrysanthemums from cuttings are the strongest and most beautiful, resistant to diseases and cold, have a lush crown and bloom profusely. Therefore, the cultivation of chrysanthemums by cuttings is preferable - both easier and more reliable.

Did you know? Cutting is vegetative way plant breeding.

How to prepare soil for cuttings

Optimal composition – mix one part earth and humus and two parts sand. From above, coarse sand (river) is poured into the flowerpot in a ratio of 1: 1 with peat in a layer of 3-5 cm.

Or take in equal proportions sod land, sand, peat. Or mix 2:1:1 - sod land, sheet and sand. The layer of any earth mixture is 10-12 cm, coarse sand (river) is poured on top of it in a ratio of 1: 1 with peat with a layer of 3-5 cm, you can just sand without peat.

Perlite with sand, sand with sphagnum moss, sand with peat, sand with vermiculite are also used for rooting - 1: 1.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings at home involves sterilization prepared soil mixture. The soil can be sterilized by calcining in the oven for 1-1.5 hours, or held over steam in a water bath for about four hours.

After that, add one of the drugs to it - Alirin, Fitosporin, Baikal M-1, Gamair. This will prevent the development of pathogenic microflora in the soil and at the same time nourish it with useful substances.

Important! For cuttings, choose healthy, most overgrown and strong uterine bushes of chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemum cuttings in spring

The best time for cuttings is spring. The period from March to April - for early varieties of chrysanthemums, from April to May - for medium and late. How to quickly grow chrysanthemums from cuttings for spring planting in the ground? It's not hard.

When to cut chrysanthemum

From the middle or end of February, the bush is transferred to a warm room and watered abundantly. You can, but not necessarily, feed the plant organic fertilizer. Good growth gives ammonium nitrate.

When young shoots appear - after about 8-12 days, they are allowed to grow to 10-12 cm, and then they are cut off to their full length.

Important! On a cut branch, there should be at least four empty segments - the distances between the leaves, which are called internodes.

How to prepare cuttings

The tops are broken off or cut off completely, leaving 2-5 leaves on the uterine stump - this is enough to resume growth. On the cuttings themselves, in order to avoid their decay, the lower leaves are removed and the upper leaves are shortened by 1/3 - they pinch, if there are small side buds on the shoot, they are also cut off and then planted.

Important! For rooting, the strongest and most elastic cuttings at the base are left. With a soft or hard base, the processes are discarded.

Planting the cutting in the substrate

The soil for planting should be well moistened. The depth of the hole is no more than 2 cm, the distance between the cuttings is 5-6 cm, if three or four cuttings are planted in a container. You can plant one cutting in a small pot or plastic cup.

How to care for cuttings

If it is average and late varieties and the weather is quite warm, the containers are taken out into the street, into fresh air, but they are placed under a canopy to protect them from rain and gusts of wind.

Water sparingly and carefully, avoiding either drying of the soil or excess water. 14-16 days after the rooting of the cuttings, they can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Early varieties, when it is still quite cold outside, are covered with a film so that the boxes with cuttings are under the dome. The free space between the tops of the cuttings and the film is left at least 35 cm.

Water enough, periodically removing the film. main feature rooting is the growth and appearance of new leaves. After the appearance of 5-7 new sheets, pinching is done. The second time, the upper leaves are shortened when the side shoots reach a length of 9-10 cm.

Did you know? Thanks to the regular pinching of the shoots, as they grow, a neat, beautiful bush is formed with good weather resistance.

For 7-10 days before planting, the "film" cuttings must be hardened. To do this, they are opened and taken out to the veranda or balcony, you can put it at open window without drafts, and at night it is better to cover again. Plant them in the ground after the threat of frost has passed.

There is a way to propagate chrysanthemum cuttings without first germinating and rooting in containers. This is another version of the spring cuttings of chrysanthemums - directly into the ground.

It is made in late spring in mid - early May and in June, that is, when the weather is warm. Cuttings are cut from overwintered bushes that have already given young shoots.

To do this, a new branch of chrysanthemum should grow by 14-15 cm. Cut it to half - about 7-8 cm. Planted immediately in high bed, sprinkled with sand and watered.

Topped with cling film air layer between the top of the cutting and the film - at least 50 cm. If the weather is warm, then it is not necessary to cover with polyethylene, if it gets colder, then they cover.

After 15-18 days after rooting, seedlings can be transplanted to their permanent allotted place.

Important! Chrysanthemums are photophilous, and it is better to plant them in open, not shaded places. So they will develop and bloom better. At correct placement on the site and care, chrysanthemums can bloom for more than a month.

How to cut chrysanthemum in summer

Summer cuttings are the simplest, it happens that just a chrysanthemum branch stuck into damp ground takes root and gives a new bush.

The best time for cuttings

Almost all summer period suitable for cuttings. It is advisable not to take shoots in extreme heat, in bad weather, during summer cooling.

How to prepare and where to plant a cutting

Young green, not stiff tops of stems 12-15 cm long are cut off or broken off from the bush. They are planted immediately in shaded(!) place.

Cutting care

Every day, 2-3 times a day, seedlings are sprayed and watered sufficiently. After 15-21 days, the stems finally take root and start growing. After that, they are transferred from the shaded temporary area to the permanent one.

The roots are dug up and, together with the mud lump, they are transplanted into a new hole. The bush grows quite quickly and manages to bloom by autumn.

Did you know? In their homeland in China, chrysanthemums bring not only aesthetic pleasure, decorating gardens and flower beds. The Chinese eat their inflorescences - they prepare desserts from them, brew tea. Flowers are also used in traditional Chinese medicine as a remedy.

How to cut chrysanthemums in autumn

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings in autumn is carried out from a mother liquor prepared for wintering.

This is done as follows: the faded bush is cut off completely at the root and left in the ground for 14-15 days, holding it even until the first frost. Then dug up and brought into the room with room temperature or in a greenhouse.

How to prepare plant cuttings

After a few days, basal shoots will begin to appear at the bush. When they grow to 8-10 cm in length, they are separated.

Chrysanthemum is one of the amazing and loved by many flowers that can be found in almost any garden. AT late XIX century, he came to Russia and gained immense popularity. Chrysanthemum is native to China. The Chinese believed that the white petals of the flower give longevity and therefore ate them.

The plant is undemanding in care. Timely watering, a well-formed bush is the minimum work that needs to be done in order to bright colors made you happy for a long time. Reproduction of chrysanthemums - A simple process that even a novice flower lover can handle. Methods of reproduction of flowers: seeds, dividing the bush, cuttings.

Reproduction by seeds

From seeds, you can grow perennials, and annual flowers. In the second decade of May, holes or grooves are made that shed well warm water. Orchid seeds, 2-3 pieces each, are laid out in a hole, sprinkled with earth and watered again. Before the emergence of seedlings, the flower bed is covered with a film or covering material. After 10 days, the plants are fed with Ideal fertilizer.

When the first shoots appear and reach a height of about 10 cm, they are thinned out. Only one strongest plant is left in the groove. Chrysanthemums will begin to bloom only in the first half of August.

Reproduction through seedlings

It is possible to reproduce chrysanthemums through seedlings. To do this, the seeds are sown in small boxes, on the bottom of which a drainage layer of sand is placed.

The containers covered with foil are stored at an air temperature of 25 °C. In two weeks, the first shoots will appear, which must be gradually hardened, removing the film, first for one, and then for two hours, and so on. The strongest seedlings dive after the formation of 3-4 leaves on them. Young plants grow very slowly and reach 20 cm in height only after a month and a half at a temperature of 18 ° C.

Planting plants in a permanent place is carried out at the end of May. The landing site should be protected from the wind and well lit. From fertilizers it is best to make humus. Clay or sandy soil should be improved with organic fertilizers.

The division of the bush

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush is carried out in spring time after frost. They choose the healthiest and strongest bush and divide it with a pruner. The resulting seedlings are immediately planted in a flower garden in a permanent place. It is desirable to divide the bush every two years. If this procedure is performed less frequently, then the bush will be weak, and the flowers will be small.

Propagation of chrysanthemums, step-by-step cutting instructions

During the flowering period of chrysanthemums, preparatory work to cuttings. Choose a strong and healthy plant and mark it. Just before the frosts, these bushes are again carefully examined, cut, dug up and transplanted into pots. Store in a cold room at a temperature not exceeding +6 °C.

The choice of cutting time for chrysanthemums depends on the period of their flowering:

• early - February;
• average - March;
• late - the first days of April.

20 days before cuttings, the plant is watered abundantly and transferred to a warmer room. To enhance the growth of green mass and the rapid growth of cuttings, the plant must be fed with nitrogen and organic fertilizers.

When five or six leaves have formed on the plant, cuttings can begin. Lignified and very soft cuttings are immediately rejected. Cut a stalk 10 cm long with a sharp knife. Before planting, the lower leaves are cut off.

Plant cuttings in flower containers or small greenhouses. The width between plants should be no more than 2 cm. Favorable temperature for rooting cuttings is from 18 to 20 ° C.

In early May, the plants are ready for planting in a flower garden in a permanent place.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums, features of cuttings

Features are that chrysanthemum cuttings can be three seasons: summer, spring and autumn.

The summer cutting method is the simplest and does not require special skills. The strongest upper shoots no more than 15 cm long are chosen. The plant is planted in a place protected from light and watered abundantly. After 14-16 days, chrysanthemums begin to grow.

In spring, rooting of cuttings occurs very quickly. This is the most fertile period when you can start breeding chrysanthemums.

With late autumn cuttings of plants, flowers can be obtained in the spring. Having chosen a mother bush, from which almost the entire ground part must be cut off, it is left in the soil for another two weeks. Further, he digs out and transplants into a pot. It is necessary to store the plant in a cool place at a temperature of +7 ° C and make sure that the earth does not dry out.

If the plant, after digging, is transferred to the greenhouse, then shoots will appear after a short time interval. Reproduction of chrysanthemums in autumn should be carried out when their height reaches 8 cm. The shoots are picked off from the root, which leads to 100% plant survival.

Reproduction from bouquets

Propagating chrysanthemums from bouquets is very simple. To do this, the flowers in the vase need to bloom. Next, they remove all the leaves and pinch the top. They change the water in the vase and wait for the roots to appear for transplanting into a pot or flower bed.

From dry chrysanthemums small flowers you can also collect seeds. They will make good seedlings in the spring.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums, the methods and features of which are described above, is not difficult to perform, and in the future it is necessary to focus on the following points:

• bushes need a short day and a long night to form buds;
• for the growth of the plant and the formation of leaves, a long daylight hours is needed;
• plants with thin and large leaves need highly moistened soil;
• the bushes must be weeded and the soil under them loosened once every ten to twelve days;
• apply mineral fertilizers several times a season.

Having familiarized yourself with the features of each method of plant propagation and putting them into practice, you can decorate your gardens with lush and bright chrysanthemum bushes that will delight your eyes until late autumn.

Cuttings are the main way of propagation of chrysanthemum. Moreover, not only cuttings cut from a bush can be rooted, but also flower stems from a presented bouquet. The process of rooting shoots is not particularly difficult, so even a beginner grower can easily cope with it. To get a luxurious flowering bush after a while, it is enough to learn how to root a chrysanthemum from a bouquet and make a little effort.

What flowers are suitable for rooting

Reproduction by cuttings from cut stems lends itself exclusively to domestic chrysanthemums. Foreign specimens were treated with special chemical solutions that prevent wilting and simultaneously make it impossible to germinate the roots.

For cuttings, only those chrysanthemums that were grown in local nurseries are suitable.

Unlike roses, which must be cut immediately after receiving a bouquet as a gift, chrysanthemums can be admired for some time, and only after that they can be used to harvest cuttings. Small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums sprout roots the easiest. To germinate large-flowered Indian varieties, you will have to make a little more effort.

Stem selection and cutting rules

With the rooting of chrysanthemums, there are rarely problems, and the roots can give almost any shoots. But you should not try to germinate too young, not gained strength and too old, lignified shoots. Young shoots rarely take root, and old ones begin to rot before they germinate.

For harvesting cuttings, it is worth choosing a chrysanthemum from a bouquet with strong, semi-lignified, richly colored side shoots growing from the axils of the leaves. The most viable are the lateral processes located on the main stem up to the flowering shoots. But if signs of yellowing are already visible on the shoot, it is not worth rooting.

Important. You should not choose for rooting too thick, coarsened shoots and cuttings, on which internodes are too often located.

Only strong side shoots are suitable for cuttings.

Selected viable shoots are cut out from the mother stem in such a way that a "heel" remains at the lower end, that is, part of the base of the central stem. On blanks, all leaves are removed, except for 2-3 apical ones. The upper leaves need to be cut to a third of the length. This technique will limit the growth of leaves on the shoot and stimulate the formation of roots on it. To ensure future branching, the crown of the shoot must be pinched.

The optimal time for rooting chrysanthemums is January-February. To grow a chrysanthemum from a bouquet at home in winter, you need to choose the most attractive flower with green shoots, root it, and by spring a fluffy bush will appear in the garden, exactly repeating the flower from the bouquet.

If the vending flower appeared in the house in the spring and summer, rooting can also be done using viable side shoots. In this case, planting in open ground is best postponed until next spring. If the stalk is rooted in early spring, it can be planted in open ground in the fall, in early September. For the winter, such a plant will need to be carefully covered with spruce branches, dry foliage or straw.

At home, chrysanthemum cuttings are usually rooted in January or February.

Landing in open ground after September 15 is not worth it. In this case, the plant will not have time to take root and will die in winter from exposure to even slight frosts and with high-quality shelter.

Technology of rooting cuttings

Depending on the rooting time, cuttings can be planted in pots or directly in open ground. But first, the cuttings must be germinated in water. For germination, prepared shoots are placed in a glass with clean, filtered or boiled water. To prevent bacteria from multiplying in the water, an activated charcoal tablet is added to it.

Requirements for the composition of the soil and utensils for planting

The roots on the cuttings appear in 4-5 days. After that, rooted shoots can be planted in the soil.

The substrate for sprouting chrysanthemum cuttings should be slightly acidic or neutral. acidic soils this plant is contraindicated. Optimal acidity is provided by wood ash added to the substrate.

For rooting cuttings of chrysanthemums choose a wide container.

For good growth cuttings need a large supply of nutrients, so it is recommended to add humus or well-rotted compost and a small amount of nitrophoska to the soil. The soil for planting chrysanthemums must have air and water permeability, so perlite or vermiculite is added to the substrate to give maximum looseness. Cuttings can also be planted in a mixture of vermiculite and peat.

The root system of the chrysanthemum is superficial, and tends to grow not in depth, but in breadth. Therefore, the container for growing chrysanthemums is selected shallow, but wide enough, at least 30 centimeters in diameter.

Experts advise choosing plastic pots for planting chrysanthemum cuttings. Unlike ceramic, they retain moisture well. When rooting a chrysanthemum from a bouquet, this circumstance is very important.

Rules for planting cuttings

Planting the cuttings in the soil must be carried out when the roots reach a length of 0.5-1 centimeter. It is impossible to overexpose the shoot with roots in the water, as it will begin to rot.

Before filling the pot with prepared soil mixture, a layer of drainage is laid on the bottom for drainage. excess fluid when watering. A small amount of substrate is poured onto the drainage layer and a cutting is placed on it. The shoot must be buried in the soil by 4-5 centimeters. Excessive penetration of the cutting is contraindicated.

The stalk is gradually covered with soil, lightly tamping it down. The surface of the soil is well moistened. For creating greenhouse conditions the stalk is covered plastic bag or other transparent cap. Shelter on the pot should be at least 14-15 days.

Chrysanthemum care after planting

A rooting chrysanthemum is placed in a warm, bright place. The recommended location of the pot with the handle at home is the western or eastern window. It is impossible to install a pot on the southern windows, since direct sunlight under the film will create a greenhouse effect, and the cutting will die from overheating.

After transplantation, the cuttings of chrysanthemums are covered with a film.

Important. You can not keep the chrysanthemum far from the light source or on the north window. From a lack of lighting, the plant will be oppressed and may even die.

The temperature of the content of the cutting during its rooting is 18-20 degrees. Deviations in one direction or the other are not desirable. In the cold, the plant will stop developing, and in a room that is too warm, it will not have enough moisture. In a hot room, moisture from the soil evaporates too quickly, and from frequent watering The roots of the plant may rot.

Watering and fertilizing plants

It is necessary to water the rooting chrysanthemum as the topsoil dries. The plant is not recommended for both waterlogging and overdrying of the earthy coma.

As soon as the first leaves appear on the handle, the plant can be fed to build up the root mass. But you should not get carried away with top dressing. If during planting a sufficient amount of humus or peat was added to the substrate, from making nitrogen fertilizers worth giving up.

2 weeks after the appearance of new leaves on the handle, you can feed with any mineral mixture for flowering plants. Experienced flower growers recommend using fertilizer mixtures from the OZHZ series. These are organo-mineral top dressings that can be applied under the root or along the foliage. For the first dressings, it is recommended to use solutions of low concentration so as not to burn the delicate roots of plants.

Chrysanthemum cuttings are periodically fed.

Full rooting of the cuttings occurs after 3-4 weeks. By this time, the plants are ready for transplanting into open ground. Before planting in open ground, young chrysanthemums need to be hardened for 2 weeks. Plants organize walks on fresh air, gradually increasing the time from 30-40 minutes to staying outside for 8-10 hours.

Transplantation in open ground: timing and technology

Rooted chrysanthemum cuttings are planted in open ground from mid-April to mid-May, depending on weather conditions. Despite the cold resistance of chrysanthemums, young, not yet mature plants may not tolerate planting in cold ground or exposure to short-term spring frosts.

Important. If leaves have already formed on the bush and it is completely ready for planting in open ground, and it is still cold outside, the plant needs to be provided with coolness and maximum lighting. When kept warm, even with an abundance of light, the plant will stretch. The best option for keeping a chrysanthemum in a pot in this case is installation on a glazed balcony or loggia.

For planting chrysanthemums, a sunny, dry area is selected. Preferably on a hill. Planting chrysanthemum in the lowlands, where moisture stagnates for a long time, is contraindicated. In such conditions, the roots of the plant will begin to rot.

In open ground, grown cuttings of chrysanthemums can be planted in the spring.

The site for planting cuttings is carefully dug up, 5 kilograms of humus or peat are added to it for square meter, 500 grams wood ash and 70 grams of nitrophoska.

Shallow but wide pits are prepared for planting, on the bottom of which drainage is laid (broken red brick, expanded clay, granite chips or small pebbles). The distance between planted plants should be 30-40 centimeters. The cuttings are placed in the soil at the same level at which they grew in pots.

Transplantation is carried out by transshipment, trying not to damage the roots. Plants are removed from the pot along with a clod of earth and placed in a prepared hole. The surface is lightly rammed and watered abundantly. To preserve moisture in the soil, the surface is mulched with peat or dry foliage.

Advice. In order for the planted bush not to be swayed by gusts of wind, it is necessary to provide a backup. The plant can be protected with a low fence, which will protect the plant from gusts of wind, and at the same time will serve as a support.

Chrysanthemum care in the open field

In the first 30 days after planting, special attention should be paid to the chrysanthemum, since at this time it is fully adapted to growing conditions. Within 14 days, young bushes are shaded so that the leaves do not suffer from direct sunlight.

After transplanting, the chrysanthemum is regularly watered with warm water.

Young bushes should be watered with warm, settled or rain water after the topsoil has dried. Excessive soil moisture is contraindicated for chrysanthemum, from excess moisture, the roots and lower shoots of the plant begin to rot. After watering, the surface should be loosened regularly to ensure air access to the roots.

Chrysanthemum in open field enhanced nutrition is needed, therefore, 20-25 days after planting the cuttings in open ground, plants should be fed with organo-mineral mixtures.

During the growing season, the chrysanthemum needs at least three top dressings:

• nitrogen-containing - at the beginning active growth shoots;
• potassium-phosphorus - during the formation of buds;
• complex - after flowering. During the preparation of the plant for wintering.

To form a compact, fluffy bush, the shoots need to be pinched regularly. This technique allows you to stimulate the formation of many side shoots, which will subsequently ensure the formation more colors.

For the winter, chrysanthemum bushes should be covered with spruce branches, dry foliage or straw. Indian large-flowered varieties are not able to survive frosts in open ground, so they are dug up, placed in pots with a loose substrate and stored in a cool, dry room at a temperature of 8-10 degrees.

In the video, the florist shows his method of rooting chrysanthemums from a bouquet.

Every flower lover can decorate his own flower garden using a presented bouquet of chrysanthemums. A properly rooted chrysanthemum will delight the owner with its charming flowering not one year.